CHAPTER III.

THE SERWATTY ISLANDS.

Arrival at the island of Wetta.—Productions.—Trade.—Interview with the natives.—Destruction of the chief village.—Depart for Kissa.—The Christian inhabitants.—The fort Vallenhoven.—Friendly reception by the natives.—Beauty of the landscape.—State of agriculture.—Attachment of the people to the Dutch government.—General assemblage of the people.—Performance of divine service.—Native hospitalities.—Order, neatness and industry of the people of Kissa.

Duringthe existence of the Dutch East India Company, a garrison of their troops occupied the village of Sau, on the south coast of Wetta, an island situated opposite the north coast of Timor. We directed our course thither, and stood close along shore to search for the village in question. The shores of the island were steep and hilly, but luxuriantly clothed with trees, among which appeared at intervals the huts of the inhabitants, the whole presenting a most picturesque view. The natives appeared to be extremely shy, none of themmaking their appearance on the beach, nor indeed seeming to wish to look at us.

On the 10th of June we arrived off Sau, and came to an anchor in fifty fathoms water, about a cable's length from the shore, in a small bay, where we lay tolerably well sheltered from the south-east winds by a point of land. Having fired a gun, and hoisted the Dutch flag, two natives made their appearance on the beach, to whom I sent one of the interpreters, who soon brought them on board. They proved to be Christian native chiefs, Hura, the Orang Kaya, and Dirk-Cobus, the Orang Tua of the village.[8]Their appearance betokened great poverty, and they complained bitterly of the miserable state into which they had fallen since they had lost the protection of the Dutch. They informed me that four years previously their village had been plundered and burned to the ground, and several of their people killed, by the inhabitants of Lette, since which occurrence they had deserted the sea-coast,and had taken up their residence in the hills.

With the view of inspiring them with confidence, I went on shore entirely alone, and landed near the remains of what had been a fine walled village, containing a church and a guard-house. The number of the fruit trees, and the luxuriant growth of the various plants, gave evidence that the ground over which I walked possessed exceeding fertility. A crowd of unconverted natives, who recognized the above-mentioned Christian chiefs as their rulers, now joined us. They were all armed with spears, bows, arrows, andparangsor chopping knives; but they soon laid these aside, and gave many tokens of friendship and confidence. A small quantity of arrack and tobacco which I distributed among them, put them in high spirits. With the exception of the two chiefs, none of the natives spoke the Malayan language, nor were my interpreters acquainted with their dialect.

On the beach I met with two sheds belonging to the people of Kissa, who had been in the habit of coming here to barter cloth, iron and gold, for sandal-wood, rice and Indian corn or maize. Coin is not in use as a currency among the natives. Buffaloes, hogs, sheep and fowls may be obtained here ata very cheap rate in exchange for cloth, but not in very large numbers.

Having wandered for some time over this very beautiful country, we approached the eastern extremity of the village, and sat down on the banks of a river, which there emptied itself into the sea. They appeared much pleased by this, and with much energy of manner expressed their ardent desire to live once more in peace and quietude under the rule of the Dutch, at the same time offering up thanks to heaven on finding that the Company, (as they always styled our government) after having so long abandoned them, had now again appeared. Although both the chiefs spoke the Malayan language, I could not correctly understand the answers to all the questions I put, but they clearly expressed their desire to take up their residence again on the sea shore, and requested that one or two European soldiers, with a teacher to instruct them in the tenets of Christianity, might be left among them. For the latter in particular they appeared to be extremely anxious. They also made several other requests; on which I promised that the Netherlands' government should watch over their interests, but that their prosperity must depend chiefly on their own exertions.

From the account of the natives themselves, the sea coast population of the island is far from being numerous, many of the inhabitants having retired to the other islands after the destruction of Sau. On the other hand, the mountaineers, who are called Arafuras, are in great numbers, these simple people considering themselves as the subjects of the inhabitants of the coast. The natives of the north and east coasts of Wetta have a bad character, having plundered and murdered the crews of two prahus a short time previous to my visit to the island.

The Arafuras of the interior had been in a very unsettled state some time past, all regularity of government having been put an end to by the death of the Raja, Johannes Pitta, whose heir had retired with his mother to the island of Kissa. The natives besought me in the most earnest manner to summon this young man back to his native island, and install him as their chief.

The two chiefs and several of the people, returned with me to the brig, where I presented them with some cloth and a Dutch flag, promising to promote their interests to the best of my power at Kissa, towards which island, having nothing more to detain me here, I now steered.

Kissa possesses only two anchoring places, one onthe west, and the other on the south-east side of the island. When seen from a distance the land does not appear to be much elevated above the level of the sea, but on a nearer approach it will be perceived that the shores rise abruptly from the water, and are of a very rocky nature. Small creeks and inlets are to be seen here and there, but these will only admit prahus of a small draught of water. In former times Kissa was the seat of the Dutch Residency of the south-west islands,[9]and it is still the most populous of the group, the people being also farther advanced in civilization than their neighbours.

In standing westward towards the roads, we ran close along the south-west side of the island, where the violent breaking of the sea against the steep shore, presented a very picturesque appearance; but to us, who were at a very small distance from the land, the sight was combined with something of the terrific. On the 13th of June we anchored in a bight to the northward of the south-west point, on a stripof sand and rocks, with very irregular soundings on it, and moored the brig with a hawser made fast to the steep shore. The beach was here flat and sandy, but was fronted by a reef, steep to on the outer side, over which small prahus can go at the time of high water. The inhabitants haul up theirjonkos(trading prahus of about twenty tons burthen) on the beach.

The natives hoisted a Dutch flag on our arrival, and several of the chiefs came off to welcome us to their shores shortly after we had come to an anchor. I soon went on shore, accompanied by M. Kam and several of the gentlemen, when we found a multitude of natives assembled on the beach to receive us, provided with litters to carry us up into the country. The proofs of joy at our arrival, evinced by the assembled crowd, were indeed striking in the extreme.

My attention was first directed to the fort Vollenhoven, which was situated a little to the northward of our anchorage, in the middle of an extensive level plain. The fort consisted of an inclosure about ninety feet square, formed by stone walls ten feet high and three feet in thickness, with a gate on the east side, and a bastion with four embrasures on thesouth-west and north-east corners. This portion of the fort was still in a good and serviceable state, but the interior works and the building had all fallen to the ground, the greater portion of the materials having been destroyed by the white ant.[10]We found five dismounted cannon lying on the sea bastion, one a one-pounder, and the others four-pounders, which were still in good condition. The fort, with all its contents, were considered by the natives as the property of the old East India Company, and for this reason had been preserved untouched by the natives, who viewed them as relics. They eagerly offered to put these, together with the Residency House, which was much decayed, into repair, if a Dutch garrison were again placed among them.

Marna, the chief village, which lies inland about half an hour's journey from the fort, is approached by means of a pathway, shaded by high trees, running along a deep valley. The village has an appearanceof great neatness, the houses, many of which have the sides constructed of planks, being surrounded by gardens kept in the greatest order; and, although the buildings are of different heights and sizes, the village has by no means an irregular appearance. It is enclosed on one side by a stone wall, and on the other three by live hedges, orpaggafences. All the inhabitants profess the Christian religion, and the large and well-built church in which they perform their devotions is kept in a state of perfect order. The village altogether presents a charming proof of the order, neatness, and industry of the inhabitants, by which they have naturally arisen to a greater state of prosperity than will be found in most other native places. The whole island consists of clusters of hillocks, luxuriantly clothed with herbage, the summits of which we often ascended to enjoy the delightful prospect afforded by the villages and cultivated fields spread over the country, the scene being enlivened by the presence of men, women and children, busily pursuing their avocations. Agriculture, however, is not so much attended to as could be wished, as the natives are obliged to import rice and maize from Wetta, but cattle and stock are in the greatest abundance.

The people of Kissa devote themselves chiefly to commercial pursuits, carrying on a brisk trade with the neighbouring islands; and in this point of view Kissa must be considered as the most important in the group. Their commercial propensities, however, have been disadvantageous to them as far as the improvement of agriculture is concerned.

It had been arranged that a general meeting of the inhabitants should take place on the 14th of June, to give me an opportunity of making known to them the purport of my visit. At nine o'clock in the morning of the day fixed on, I sent forward a detachment of twenty armed European seamen to the village, under the command of one of my officers, and soon afterwards I left the brig for the shore, accompanied by Messrs. Ram and Dielwaart, with the officers of the brig, the clerk and the interpreters, under a salute from the guns. The natives received us on the beach with much ceremony, and conveyed us in litters towards the town, amid the firing of lelahs and the joyous shouts of the natives; these proofs of friendship being the more agreeable from their evident sincerity.

To my great satisfaction, I found that nearly every chief of the island was present at the meeting, and I was heartily welcomed by the upper Orang Kayain the name of them all. Immediately after this, the entire multitude cried out simultaneously, "Tarima kasipada tūhan Alla, Compania būlūm lūpa sama kami orang," ("Thanks be to God, the Company have not yet forgotten us.")

The letter sent to them by the Governor of the Moluccas was now read in a loud voice by the interpreter, under a salvo from the small arms, according to the custom of the natives; and soon afterwards I distributed among them the presents with which I had been furnished for them by the Government. I have frequently observed, that the natives never decide on any point at the moment, but consult with each other until they have come to a determination. I therefore left them for a time, that they might have their deliberations to themselves. On my return, as I had expected, they expressed themselves very thankful for the good wishes of the Government, and earnestly requested that a small detachment of troops might be established among them as formerly, and that the Government would send them also a missionary or teacher to instruct them in the tenets of Christianity, for whose maintenance they would amply provide. I now, in the name of the Government, confirmed the authority of the various chiefs, in token of which I deliveredthe staves of office[11]formerly presented to their chiefs by the old East India Company, into the hands of their successors. The chief Orang Kaya, Zacharis Frederick Bakker, had in his possession a certificate of chieftainship furnished him by the present Government, which he requested me to inspect. I then presented him with one of the silver knobbed staves I had brought with me, promising that the Government would afterwards replace it with one provided with a golden knob.

At this meeting, the fugitives from Wetta, (among whom was the heir of the above-mentioned Orang Kaya, Pitta) were present. The chiefs of Kissa promised henceforward to interest themselves in the affairs of Wetta, in doing which they would be promoting their own welfare. I also suggested to them how advantageous it would prove were they to bring their productions to Banda and Amboyna, and gave them much advice as to the best means by which they might increase their prosperity. After this the assembly was broken up, amid a continued firing of lelahs in all parts of the village.

In the meantime a long table had been laid out in the European fashion, with plates, knives, forks and spoons, on which were placed pastry, and other refreshments for our entertainment. The natives of these parts are generally very partial to our national customs, and are also desirous of following the Dutch fashions in their mode of dress. I took my place at the table with the chiefs, while the seamen, who were not forgotten, partook of a separate repast. I had brought on shore several bottles of wine and liqueurs, which added greatly to the conviviality of the meeting, many toasts applicable to the occasion being given. Many of the natives, especially the more respectable, spoke a few words of Dutch, and they took care to make their knowledge apparent at every opportunity.

M. Kam having expressed a wish to perform divine service at the church after the conclusion of the meeting, we entered this neat and substantial building, where we found that every auditor was provided with a proper seat, although, owing to our presence, the church was very full. M. Kam gave a discourse in Malayan and Dutch. The unbroken silence maintained by the auditors, their deep attention, and the truly religious gravity which sat upon every countenance, rendered the scene highly solemnand impressive. When the service was over, about sixty of the natives, old as well as young, were christened by M. Kam, who also united twelve couples in marriage.

The village church is ninety feet in length and forty in breadth, the roof being elevated about, sixty feet from the ground. The costume of the natives was rather singular. They had naturally clothed themselves in their best on this important occasion, some wearing old fashioned-coats with wide sleeves, and broad skirts; others garments of the same description, but of a more modern cut, while the remainder were clad in long blackkabyas, or loose coats, the usual dress of native Christians. The costume of those who were clad in the old fashioned coats, was completed by short breeches, shoes with enormous buckles, and three-cornered or round felt hats, of an ancient description. Many of the women wore old Dutch chintz gowns or jackets, the costume of the remainder being the nativesarongandkabya. The heads of the women were adorned with ornaments of gold and precious stones, but the men wore their long hair simply confined with a tortoise-shell comb, after the mode adopted by the native Christians of Amboyna. These quaint costumes acted as a considerable foilto the sedateness of the meeting; but even the unpolished seamen did not commit themselves by giving vent to their mirth, and the whole service was performed amid the most perfect order and regularity.

After leaving the church we were invited with much kindness into many of the private houses, and always found small tables laid out with refreshments, the hosts endeavouring, to the best of their power, to receive us with hospitality.

The people of Kissa are far in advance of those of Amboyna in point of industry. Every house that we visited was surrounded by a garden, laid out with much care, in which were planted Indian corn, tobacco, cabbages,siri(piper betel), and various sorts of culinary vegetables, while large herds of cattle were grazing in the valleys.

It was late in the afternoon when we made preparations to return on board. We left the village attended by a multitude of the people, the seamen walking in advance, with drums beating and colours flying, while the officers and myself were carried in litters as before, the kind-hearted and thankful islanders greeting us with blessings and shouts of joy, accompanied by the firing of their lelahs.

On my return on board, I judged it inadvisableto remain under the coast during the night, as we were anchored with a cable ofgumuti, (the hairy bark of theborassus gumutus), which is more liable to chafe over the rocks than those of European hemp. Indeed, towards evening the cable parted, which obliged us to stand off and on during the night. Ships navigating these seas should always be provided with chain cables. While the eastern monsoon prevails, the current sets to the eastward, or to windward through these islands, from Dilli, or Timor, as far as the island of Baba. This remark will be of value to navigators, as by taking advantage of this weather current they may work to windward through these islands with facility.

On the morning of the 15th I again went on shore, and, after visiting the village, penetrated farther into the interior than I had previously been. Proofs of the industry and orderly habits of the natives were encountered at every step. My attention was particularly drawn to the course of instruction adopted at the schools, where all the children, under nine or ten years of age, assembled to learn reading and writing, and the rudiments of Christianity.

I observed a strong partiality for a military life among the young men, and there can be no doubtthat, if well disciplined, they would prove excellent auxiliary troops for the Government.

Having confirmed the appointment of several chiefs, and fulfilled my duties in every particular, I took a friendly leave of the Orang Kayas and the people, who brought on board a quantity of provisions and fruit as presents, and firing some guns as a last farewell to these good-hearted islanders, we shaped our course for the adjacent island of Lette.

FOOTNOTES:[8]These two native titles, the first of which signifies literally "rich man," and the other "old man," or "elder," are the usual designations of the chiefs among the Moluccan and the neighbouring island. When these have become Christians, they usually adopt European names, as Dirk-Cobus (Diderik-Jacobus), the chief mentioned in the text, had done.[9]This group is named in our charts the Serwatty Islands, probably a native corruption of the Dutch term "Zuid-wester" (south-western). As this name has long been recognized, we have continued it here to avoid confusion.—Trans.[10]These insects, which abound all over India, are very mischievous, sometimes eating through and destroying a chest and its contents in a single night. To prevent this the chests are usually provided with feet, which are placed in small cups of water, the ants having great dread of this element. On the other hand, these insects do good service by destroying the carcases of dead animals, and thus preventing them from polluting the atmosphere.[11]These staves of office were canes with silver or golden knobs, on which were engraven the arms of the East India Company and the name of the chief to whom they were delivered, together with an appropriate inscription.

[8]These two native titles, the first of which signifies literally "rich man," and the other "old man," or "elder," are the usual designations of the chiefs among the Moluccan and the neighbouring island. When these have become Christians, they usually adopt European names, as Dirk-Cobus (Diderik-Jacobus), the chief mentioned in the text, had done.

[9]This group is named in our charts the Serwatty Islands, probably a native corruption of the Dutch term "Zuid-wester" (south-western). As this name has long been recognized, we have continued it here to avoid confusion.—Trans.

[10]These insects, which abound all over India, are very mischievous, sometimes eating through and destroying a chest and its contents in a single night. To prevent this the chests are usually provided with feet, which are placed in small cups of water, the ants having great dread of this element. On the other hand, these insects do good service by destroying the carcases of dead animals, and thus preventing them from polluting the atmosphere.

[11]These staves of office were canes with silver or golden knobs, on which were engraven the arms of the East India Company and the name of the chief to whom they were delivered, together with an appropriate inscription.

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