CHAPTER V.

MOA AND ROMA.

Boat Expedition to the Island of Moa.—Good Inclination of the Inhabitants.—The Block-house.—The Duif Family.—Character of the People.—Respect entertained by the Heathen towards the Christian Inhabitants.—State of Civilization and Public Instruction.—Kind Hospitality of the Natives.—Their Feelings of Attachment and Confidence towards the Dutch Government.—Departure for the Island of Roma.

Accordingto an oldadator custom, the ships of the Dutch East India Company never anchored off Moa, but remained at Lette, whence the Company's servants were conducted to Moa by a chief of that island, who came over for the purpose; and as I did not wish to make an inroad into old usages, I made known my arrival to the people of Moa, upon which the chief of the village of Tombra came over to welcome me, and to offer his vessel for my accommodation during the proposed expedition. On the 21st of June I departed for Moa, accompaniedby several of my officers, and followed by two of our boats carrying the detachment of marines, while a number of native prahus brought up the rear. Having a fair wind, we soon arrived off the west coast of the island, where we found a large crowd of the natives assembled, who gave us a most enthusiastic welcome. I cannot find terms to describe how gratifying it was to us to discover in all these islands, so sincere and unanimous a feeling of attachment towards our Government; for the long period, during which the friendly communication between these inhabitants and the Dutch had been discontinued, appeared only to have added fresh fuel to their attachment.

The part of the island at which we had arrived was due east from the village of Batu Mean, and no sooner had we stepped on shore than a number of litters, which had been prepared for us, were brought forward, when there existed no little commotion among the crowd, each wishing that the village to which he belonged should be honoured by our first visit. Here we took a kind farewell of the chiefs of Lette who had accompanied us, when they departed homewards amid repeated mutual congratulations. We now deposited ourselves in the litters, which were provided with curtains of chintz orcoloured cotton; our own party, which numbered six, together with the chiefs, being carried in this manner, and as the crowd was very great, the bearers could change frequently during our tolerably long journey to the head village. Behind us walked the detachment of marines, and the domestics who carried the presents, so that our train had a very imposing appearance.

Our way lay, for the most part, over level uninhabited land, cultivated in some places, and in others overgrown withallang-allang, a sort of wild grass, growing to the height of four or five feet. The foot-path was narrow and bad, and this, combined with the heat of the sun, and the length of the distance, rendered the journey extremely painful, especially to our marines. We had left the landing-place at half-past eight, and owing to these difficulties did not arrive at our destination until one in the afternoon, and as this was too long a period to remain in the litters, we often relieved our cramped limbs by walking.

The villages of Roksali, Taynama, and Patti, to which we were journeying, are situated on a piece of high coral ground near the beach, and are separated from each other by high stone walls. We marched into the chief of these with drums beatingand colours flying, and were received by the inhabitants with much friendship and confidence. One of the chiefs requested us to stay a short time under the shade of a high tree in the village, when he left us, and soon afterwards we were welcomed with much ceremony by a very aged native, who was entirely clad in an ancient European costume. He wore a large wig, a three-cornered hat, short breeches with large knee-buckles, and a coat with wide sleeves, ruffles, and spacious skirts; while on his feet he had high shoes, with heavy silver buckles: in short, he was clad after the fashion of the seventeenth century. This old man frankly offered us whatever the village contained, stating that men and goods were at our disposal; and declaring that our arrival had inspired him and his countrymen with the greatest delight. His joy was not feigned, for in many conversations which I afterwards held with him he gave most unequivocal proofs of his earnest attachment to the Dutch Government, and the sincerity of his feelings was undoubted, as, although he reasoned well, he yet gave proofs of great age having impaired his understanding; therefore he would have been unable to keep his duplicity concealed had any existed. This old man had once been governor or regent of the island. The wholepopulation viewed him with the highest respect; they consulted him on every affair of importance, and his clear knowledge of men and things, coupled with his long experience, gave him a great influence over them. He had resigned his authority several years since, and his grandson, of whom mention will be made hereafter, had been appointed his successor, with the title of Upper Orang Kaya.

After I had remained under the high tree some time conversing with this worthy native, we were conducted to a Block-house, situated near the sea, which had formerly been the abode of the garrison left here by the (Dutch) East India Company. This building, which was tolerably large, and of great strength, was surrounded by a good stone wall, one hundred and fifty paces square, provided with several look-out houses, and four doors. Upon a board above the door of the house were cut these words:—"De Korporaal Duif heeft dit gebouw gesticht in het jaar 17..,"[13]the date was legible no farther.

The natives had preserved the Block-house in a good state of repair, out of regard for the Company (which term they usually apply to the Netherlands'Government,) and in the hope that they would once more be favoured (this was their expression) by the presence of a Dutch garrison. Even the bed places of the three soldiers, who had resided here, were left entire. On the occasion of our coming the entire building had been repaired and beautified, so that at the present time it was in a very serviceable state.

I will here give an instance of the nice sense of propriety shown by these people, at which I must confess I was surprised. No sooner had we expressed a wish to take a little rest than they all retired, no one coming near unless called for; while two natives posted themselves at the door, to inform those who wished to enter that we were not to be disturbed; and this was done without any wish to that effect having been expressed by any one of our party.

A family who went by the name of Duif, were among those who came to greet me on my arrival. The head of the family announced to me that he was the son of the Corporal Duif who had been entrusted with the erection of the Block-house, and that his father had married a native woman, from whom had sprung a very numerous progeny. I found here, as well as on the islands I had previouslyvisited, that it is a mark of distinction to have sprung from an European. Those who have a mixture of our blood in their veins, are called "Anak Compania" (children of the Company), and they are not a little proud of the title, although it confers upon them no exclusive privileges.

Immediately after we had entered the Block-house, and our baggage had been brought in, the bearers and other natives retired, a chief and six others remaining, to attend to our wants. Meat, eggs, milk and Indian corn were brought to us, and with this they prepared a patriarchal meal, which was seasoned with kind hospitality.

The place where we had taken up our residence was situated on the south-west point of the island, close to the shore, where the reefs are steep to, so that here, especially in the rainy monsoon, there is a very heavy surf. On every point of the east side of the island there is good and convenient anchorage.

The inhabitants of Moa turn their chief attention to breeding cattle, and grow only a small quantity of vegetables and Indian corn, the two last being chiefly for home consumption. The vessels which come to trade with the island generally anchor under the coast of Lette, and obtain the buffaloes,goats, hogs, and fowls from natives of Lette, who go to Moa to purchase them; but the traders themselves sometimes go to Moa to fetch them in their own prahus. The inhabitants of the latter island never carry their stock to sea in their own vessels, as, from an old tradition, they entertain a superstitious notion that, were they to do so, some serious misfortune would inevitably befal them. Their flocks and herds are composed chiefly of sheep and buffaloes.

On Moa, as well as on most of the other islands, the population is divided into two classes, Christians and heathens, which may be considered as standing in the same relation to each other as masters and subjects. The subordination of the heathens, (who are by far the most numerous,) and the respect they entertain towards the Christians, are very remarkable, and may be partly attributed to the superior consideration in which the Christians are held by our Government; but undeniably, it is in a great measure owing to an irresistible belief on the part of the heathens, in the moral superiority of the Christians. That the latter must be the chief cause is apparent, from no Dutch ship of war having visited these islands for a long series of years.

On the north-east point of Moa, a solitary highmountain, calledKorbou, or Buffalo Peak, resembling in appearance, but much inferior in height to the famed Peak of Teneriffe, raises its head above the remaining part of the island, which consists generally of flat land. The ground is everywhere corally; and on the south and south-eastern parts of the island there is very little cultivation. The extensive plains, which produce nothing butallang-allang, are converted into good meadow land by the skill of the natives, who, at the end of the dry season, when this coarse grass has been almost withered by the continued heat and drought, set fire to it, and it is soon reduced to ashes. The rains, which shortly follow, combined with the heat of the sun, render the land thus prepared very productive, the ashes forming an excellent manure. The young grass, which now springs up, affords sumptuous fare for the stock; this fact being attested by the sleek and fat condition of the buffaloes, sheep, and other animals which feed upon it; indeed, the buffaloes of Moa are considered to be the best that can be procured among those islands.

Specie is seldom or never in use among the natives, cloth, brass-wire and other articles of foreign manufacture or produce, being used as a medium of exchange. A buffalo is to be purchased by goods tothe value of five or six guilders (8s.4d.to 10s.), while the price of a sheep is from two to three guilders. Fishing is not so much pursued, either by the people of Moa, or by those of the neighbouring islands, as one would be led to expect, when the abundance of fish is taken into consideration. No wild animals are to be met with on the island. A few blue pigeons are occasionally seen; but I have traversed the island for hours together, in company with some other lovers of field-sports, without meeting with any game.

On the day after our arrival at the head village, I commenced transacting the business with which I had been entrusted. The assembling of the chiefs and people was conducted in the same manner as in Kissa and Lette, and I was constantly employed for three days attending to their affairs, instituting measures for increasing their prosperity, and forming plans for bettering their social state, especially as far as regards public instruction. The natives expressed their desire, as strongly as those I had previously visited, to receive among them a Dutch garrison, and a local teacher for their youth. I noted down the chief points of their desires, and promised that I would make them known to the Governor of the Moluccas.

It is generally supposed by us that the inhabitants of those distant places are only Christians in name, and have very little true knowledge of our religion; but I am authorized to say from experience, that this opinion is far from being a just one. To my surprise I found among the Christians of Moa, not only an extensive knowledge of the Bible, but also a very clear notion of our religious doctrines. There are very many among them who read and write very well, and when it is taken into consideration that very little instruction has been given them for a long series of years, we cannot help forming a good opinion of the industry and docility of this simple people; I can bear witness that, on this point, the inhabitants of this little island are equal, if not superior, to the natives of Amboyna, who have had far better opportunities of instruction afforded them.

The presence of M. Kam was in the highest degree agreeable to the inhabitants, and they listened with a profound attention, and a lively interest, to the religious discourses of this zealous clergyman, who baptized and married many of his hearers, my fellow voyagers and myself deriving much pleasure from being present at the ceremonies. The religious state of these people is, in a great measure, to beattributed to the exertions of M. Le Bruin, a zealous missionary of Coepang on Timor, who occasionally visits some of these islands.

On the 23rd I appointed the chiefs to the various villages, together with an upper Orang-Kaya, to whom I gave a baton with a silver knob, and a Dutch flag. During our stay on the island our table was supplied in the greatest abundance with meat, vegetables, fruit, and every thing that the island afforded; and when I offered anything to the bearers as payment for these, it was civilly but firmly refused, with the declaration that they had received orders to take nothing either as payment or as reward. All that I could induce them to receive as a token of acknowledgment was a small cask of arrack, of which they appear to be great admirers, although they make a very moderate use of it, and deem it a great disgrace to be found guilty of drinking it to excess.

When I mentioned to the chiefs that I had myself taken on board the provisions I deemed necessary, and that, should I require any more, I would willingly demand and pay for it, that I might be no burthen to the people, my proposal appeared to be by no means agreeable to them. They answered, it was an old custom for the natives to administerto the wants of the Company, and that the people would regret seeing a change in the system,as this custom afforded them a wished-for opportunity of giving a slight proof of their attachment, and they would feel hurt at being deprived of this gratification.

In the mean time, I remarked that they were making preparations to give something more than this "slight proof of attachment," in the shape of a national feast to celebrate the occasion of our visit, and the renewal of their former friendship with the Dutch. As this feast, however, would have detained me two days more, while my time was too valuable to be thrown away, I was forced to decline their invitation, informing them that my departure was irrevocably fixed for the 24th of June. In the course of this day they showed us all possible friendship, as if they wished to make themselves doubly useful during the short period in which we should remain. The evening was spent in making farewell visits, and at half-past four in the morning our bearers were in readiness, when the chiefs conducted us to the boats, the upper Orang-kaya accompanying us to the brig, where we arrived at two o'clock in the afternoon. The people of Moa, as a parting present, sent after us two fat bullocks,as if what they had already done for us were not enough.

Having thus, according to my instructions, done my utmost towards deciding their differences, and placing their affairs on a firm basis, I took my departure on the 27th of June for Roma, a hilly island, about twenty-four miles in circumference, lying about forty miles to the north-west of Moa. On the same day we arrived off Roma, and anchored in seven fathoms on a bank of sand, extending northward to the distance of about half a mile from Nusa Midta, a small island lying off the south end of Roma, from which it is separated by a strait about three miles wide. There is also a bay on the north-west side of Roma, in which it is said that there is very good anchorage, but that part of the island possesses a very scanty population, while the uncleared state of the country renders it difficult to perform a journey to the chief villages, all of which are situated on the more southern parts of the island. On the south-west side of Roma, immediately opposite to the north end of Nusa-Midta, lies a fine and fertile valley, through which runs a small river. In the west monsoon there is good anchorage for a vessel opposite the mouth of this river, from which abundanceof timber and fire-wood, and good water, may be obtained. On all the other sides of the island the shores are steep and rocky, on which beats a heavy surf, rendering the landing from boats extremely difficult.

The population of Roma is not very great. The inhabitants, however, are more civilized than on many of the neighbouring islands, and in point of industry and morality they vie with the social and orderly people of Kissa. The chief village was situated to the north-north-east of our anchoring place, on a hill about four hundred feet above the level of the sea, the houses, with the hills rising behind it like an amphitheatre, presenting a very beautiful landscape. Their village was formerly built upon the beach, but the repeated attacks of the Ceramese pirates forced them to remove it to its present site.

The Orang Kayas and Orang Tuas, as usual, came on board to welcome us; and on the following morning I went on shore, accompanied by M. Dielwart, M. Kam, the surgeon, the clerk, the interpreters, and the detachment of marines. As it was high water we had to land through a very heavy surf, when we were received with much friendship, and introduced into theKota Compania, (the Government block-house,) which consisted ofa spacious bamboo house, surrounded by a stone wall, within which there was also a tolerably large church. In consequence of the removal of the village, these now lie below the houses of the natives. The level ground in the neighbourhood is covered with dwellings, each being surrounded by a neat garden. Evidence of the uncommon industry of the people was everywhere apparent, the natural fertility of the soil being greatly increased by the skill with which they cultivate it; indeed, many of the neighbouring islands obtain here their supplies of Indian corn, fruits and other provisions, as well as timber for building their prahus. A large and beautiful valley, extending between the hills to the westward of the village of Jerusa, was covered with plantations of Indian corn, rice and vegetables, while the sides and summits of the hills were decked with grazing flocks of goats, sheep, hogs and buffaloes.

During a walk which we took along the shore and thence into the interior, we spied a number of bees' nests hanging from the branches of the high trees, some of which more than two feet in circumference. The wax and honey are collected with very little difficulty, and the bees, when driven from their nests, generally build another on the same tree.Wax, indeed, forms a very important article of commerce here, large quantities of it being sold to thepaduakansand other prahus which come from the Arru Islands, Amboyna and Banda, to obtain it. The usual price is one third of a guilder perCatti(20 oz. avoird.) and this is paid in goods, for specie is very little used.

The Christian inhabitants form the greater portion of the population, and they live on a better footing with the heathens than on the other islands. The latter, indeed, are very desirous to embrace Christianity, and a great number of them were baptized by M. Kam during our stay. They willingly allow their children to learn reading and writing, and the good disposition of these islanders, coupled with their natural capacity and application, would render it a matter of facility to convert the entire population; an event very much to be desired, not only for the improvement it would effect in their social state, but for matters of policy also, as experience has incontestibly proved that those natives who have embraced Christianity shew much more fidelity towards the Dutch Government than the others. The teacher who has lately been placed upon this island by our government, and whom we met during our stay, shews muchpraise-worthy zeal in his endeavours to improve the condition of the people with whom he is domiciled.

The government of the entire island is invested in an upperOrang Kaya, who resides at Jerusa, the neighbouring villages having each theirOrang Tuaor elder. The power of the Orang Kaya, however, is by no means absolute, for in the event of any dispute the chiefs of the villages assemble, and the decision is carried by the majority of votes. It is remarkable that sometimes, on the death of a chief, his power is transferred to his wife, so that several women are often to be seen among the chiefs when assembled in conclave. The debates are occasionally continued for two or three days, but they are usually settled without much difference of opinion.

As the people live in such a state of harmony with each other, my official duties were not very heavy, and were soon brought to a close. David Benedictus De Klerk, a young man, was appointed as their Upper Orang Kaya, and solemnly invested with the silver-knobbed cane, to the general satisfaction of the people. Here also they declared that everything the country afforded was at our free disposal, and earnestly requested that a couple ofDutch soldiers might be left behind, as representatives of our government, with the promise that they should be liberally supplied with all necessaries. The new appointed Orang Kaya, and more than one hundred and fifty men, women and children, were baptized by M. Kam, many of the people present being clad after the European style, apparently wishing by these means to shew their attachment to our nation, as was the case at the island of Kissa.

I could not avoid observing that the women of Roma though tall and well made, and not inferior in point of personal attractions to those of the adjacent islands, yet have a defect in their figures where their fair neighbours are particularly favoured by nature. Nearly all the women we saw here, even those who were nursing children, had bosoms as flat as those of the men, while in every other respect their figures are unexceptionable. This striking peculiarity, is perhaps to be attributed to some local cause, like thegoitrein the mountains of Switzerland.

Our departure was fixed for the 30th of June, and on the previous evening a farewell repast was given at the Kota Compania, at which all the chiefs were present. I had contributed some bottles of wine, and a small cask of arrack to the entertainment,and these were expended in drinking prosperity to the Dutch nation and government. We returned on board betimes, escorted by a number of native prahus. Although we had been amply provided with stock and vegetables during our stay, several goats and hogs were sent after us, which we found it impossible to refuse.

We steered to the westward along Nusa Midta, which is a small uninhabited island covered with trees, but not affording any fresh water. On this and the other islands around Roma abundance of large turtle are caught by the natives, who do not, however, turn much attention to fishing, commerce and agriculture being better suited to their tastes. In the small but important islands which we visited, the natives might soon be brought into a high state of prosperity, from which our government would derive the greatest benefit. Even now they possess capacious vessels, such as Paduakans,[14]Orang-baays and such like, which they manage with skill,but they have been so long deprived of the protection of our government that they scarcely dare to carry on a trade with the inhabitants of the neighbouring islands.

From this place we pursued our voyage towards the island of Damma, of which some particulars will be given in the ensuing chapter.

FOOTNOTES:[13]Corporal Duif erected this building in the year 17..[14]Paduakans are native vessels, having a single mast in the form of a tripod, on which is set a large oblong mat sail, similar to that used by the fishing prahus of Batavia. They are of from twenty to one hundred tons burden (ten tot fifty lasten) with great beam and high sides, but having little hold in the water. They are steered by two long rudders, which are lifted up when the vessel is at anchor or passing over shallow water.

[13]Corporal Duif erected this building in the year 17..

[14]Paduakans are native vessels, having a single mast in the form of a tripod, on which is set a large oblong mat sail, similar to that used by the fishing prahus of Batavia. They are of from twenty to one hundred tons burden (ten tot fifty lasten) with great beam and high sides, but having little hold in the water. They are steered by two long rudders, which are lifted up when the vessel is at anchor or passing over shallow water.

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