CHAPTER XIII.

THE ARRU ISLANDS.—THE TENIMBER ISLANDS.

Arrival at the Island Wadia.—Particulars concerning the Island and its Inhabitants.—Dispute between them and the Orang Tua of Fannabel.—Sad Result of their Contentions.—Departure from the Arru Islands.—Arrival at the Tenimber Group.—Vordate.—Ignorance and Perplexity of the Pilot.—Singular Customs.—Violent Conduct of the People of Timor-Laut.—The Inhabitants of Watidal and their Chiefs.

Wesoon entered the narrow strait which separates the islands of Wassia and Wadia, the last of which was the object of our visit. The people of Wakan, Samau, and the other villages on the sea shore saluting us with shots from theirlelahs, which were answered by the brig with several guns. Wassia, the north-westernmost of the Arrus, is overgrown with underwood, and the coral reefs extend some distance from it on all sides, preventing vessels from approaching the shore. The village of Wadia issituated on the west side of the island of that name, on the banks of a salt-water creek, several other villages being scattered over the island.

As soon as we had anchored in the strait, in ten fathoms sand, about four miles from the village of Wadia, the Orang Tuas of the island came on board in two prahus, to bid us welcome. My interpreter accompanied them on shore, to inform the chiefs that I should land the following day to transact the business which had brought me here. With a view to add as much solemnity as possible to my visit, I sent twenty-six armed men on shore early in the morning, and soon after followed them with the gentlemen attached to the expedition. After entering the creek we passed a temple and a number of tombs, and soon arrived at the village, which lies about a cable's length and a half from the mouth. The houses, which stand separated from each other, are erected on both sides of the river, but by far the greater number are to be found on the right-hand side, the dwelling of the Orang Kaya forming a conspicuous object among them.

On our approach to the river we were saluted with seven shots from a one-pounder gun, which had been taken on shore from the brig, while our men were drawn up on the beach to receive us withmilitary honours, the natives themselves saluting us with numerous shots from theirlelahs, and displaying several Dutch flags, which appeared to be of their own manufacture. TheOrang Kayawelcomed us to his house with many expressions of friendship, when we found that one-half of his dwelling, (a new and rather large building, similar to that of the Orang Kaya of Duryella), had been arranged for our reception, another house having been appropriated for the accommodation of our men. As the house of the Orang Kaya is usually the place where the chiefs assemble, we thought it most advisable to take up our quarters in a small building which had been occupied by the foreign traders, but was now empty.

The population of Wadia is composed of Mohammedans, so that I did not perceive among the chiefs the same affection towards the Netherland's Government which those of the Christian islands displayed. On conversing with them concerning the non-fulfillment of the promise they made to M. Bik in 1824, to resort to Banda, I clearly discovered that the Macassar traders had done all in their power to make them fearful of us. These had made them believe that the sole object of our Government consisted in increasing their revenuefrom imposts, and many similar absurdities, which it cost me considerable difficulty to drive from their minds. They also asserted, that owing to the small amount of the population they dared not leave their villages for a lengthened period, unless the Netherlands' Government should have a post upon the Arru Islands.

This request for a Dutch Resident or Postholder, with a small garrison, was made to me on all the islands, and the people appeared to be well aware that it would contribute greatly to maintaining order among them, and increasing their prosperity. Christians, Mahommedans and Arafuras, all perfectly agreed in this particular.

The creek on which this village is situated, runs right through the island. Both banks are low and marshy, and the depth of water in it is very small; indeed, many parts are quite dry at low water. It is abundantly stocked with fish, which, in fact, is the case everywhere among the group. Live stock, on the other hand, is very scarce: pigs are only kept by the Arafuras, the Mohammedans contenting themselves with goats and fowls, which last are to be purchased at the rate of a rupee each. With the exception of these there are no tamestock on the islands. Wild hogs are abundant, but they are rarely hunted by the natives.

Thepilandokis also to be met with, together with birds-of-paradise, and immense numbers of cockatoos, red, green and blackloories, and other sorts of handsomely-plumaged birds. The Arafuras shoot the birds-of-paradise with arrows, when they are opened, and deprived of their entrails, and then wrapped in a thin leaf and hung to dry in the smoke of their fires; this being the only preparation they require to render them ready for exportation.

Sago and yams form the only vegetable productions which the island affords. Rice is imported by the Macassars, and by the people of the Ki and Goram Islands, who, on their part, obtain them from Banda. The people have but few wants. Their dwellings are mean, and their sole property consists in slaves, muskets, lelahs, gongs and elephants' tusks. The first are obtained chiefly from New Guinea, and from the back parts of the group.

The people of Wadia, and of the western islands of the Arru group in general, are very desirous of obtaining the imitation blue, red andblack calicoes,[34]especially the last sort manufactured in the Netherlands. Square checked, or closely flowered chintzes, are also much in demand. These goods, however, would be too fine for the Arafuras of the back of the group, who only care for those of coarser materials, such as coarse chintzes, blue and whitesalempoors, red coast-calicoes, red baftas, Samanap sarongs, axes, parangs, chopping knives, brass wire, coarse Chinese porcelain, arrack, aniseed, gongs, elephants' tusks, small red beads and other trifles of a similar description.

The inhabitants of the western parts of the group carry on a constant bartering trade among the group; the long and light vessels previously described, which are from twelve to sixteen tons burthen, being employed in transporting the goods from island to island. The period which elapses between the cessation of one monsoon and the commencement of the other, is the fittest period for these voyages. They are fearful, however, of going to Banda or Amboyna, not only from the reasons already given, but from a dread that theGovernment would chastise them for some deeds they had committed. I endeavoured, as much as lay in my power, to banish this idea from their minds, promising them forgiveness on the part of the Government; and my exertions were attended with so much success, that during the following year, while I was remaining at Amboyna, a greater number of their vessels arrived at that place, and also at Banda, than had been the case previously.

The inhabitants of the villages on Wadia profess the Mohammedan religion. In point of numbers they are far inferior to the Christians of the neighbouring islands, with whom they live on very good terms, and like them consider themselves as subjects to the Dutch Government, although they appear to be more restless in their characters than the others. A difference had long existed between the people of Wadia and theOrang Tuaof Fannabel; and theOrang Kayaof Wokan, with the minor chiefs of that island, had followed me hither to assist in inquiring into and deciding the dispute.

After I had made known to the inhabitants the philanthropic and humane object of our Government, they gave me many proofs of their wishes topursue a proper course. I was subsequently petitioned to examine into and decide the affair of the Orang Tua of Fannabel, which, from the evidence given by both parties, appeared to be as follows:—

The Orang Tua of Fannabel possessed a stone building, defended by cannon, on the north-east side of Wokan, and being a skilful trader he soon increased his property until he became one of the wealthiest men in the islands. This aroused the envy of the people of Wadia, of which island the Orang Tua had formerly been an inhabitant. On the occasion of the marriage of one of his daughters, there arose a difference between a native of Fannabel and another of Wadia, of so violent a nature, that each threatened to take the life of the other on the first opportunity. Some time after this, a number of the people of Wadia visited Wokan to assist theOrang Kayain the construction of a church, and on their return home, one of the parties engaged in the above-mentioned quarrel, with four others, were murdered in their prahu. The offenders, who were soon after taken, declared that they had been paid for committing the deed by the people of Fannabel, on whichthose of Wadia, without enquiring farther into the matter, went to the house of the Orang Tua of Fannabel during his absence, and by way of taking revenge for the murder, they shot several of his family, took away the remainder as slaves, and then plundered and burned the house. The Orang Tua, on his return to his home, seeing the destruction that had taken place, fled to Wokan, where he was received with hospitality. The Orang Kaya of that place, however, considering that he was not sufficiently powerful to obtain redress for his friend by force, and being also unwilling to go to war with the people of Wadia, commenced negotiations, by which means a portion of the stolen property was returned.

This affair had taken place four years previous to my visit. The ill-treated Orang Tua assured me that he often thought of visiting Banda to obtain redress through the interposition of the Government, but had always been withheld by the hope that the latter would again take possession of the Arru Islands, in which case he would have brought the case before them, although he was himself aware that it would be difficult, if not impossible, to obtain back all the goods of which he had been plundered.

At the assembly which had been called together strong debates took place, which lasted until four o'clock. Some of the arguments put forth will tend to show their erroneous ideas of right and equity. A man who had carried off three of the Orang Tua's slaves, was unwilling to return more than one, or at most two, wishing to keep the remainder to pay for the maintenance of the whole. I explained to another, that as there was not the least proof of any offence on the part of the Orang Tua of Fannabel (they themselves holding him guiltless of the murder which had been committed,) while he had already suffered severely from the loss of his son, and of all his goods, it was nothing but just that he should have every thing possible restored to him. "Here," answered he, "are four of our family slain in their prahu; we must therefore have redress from somebody, no matter whom." At length it was determined, that a portion of the goods should be restored, and several gongs, elephants' tusks and slaves were immediately given up.

After I had thus changed the inveterate hatred into friendship, and had settled some other differences, I appointed a certain Abdul Wahab as their Orang Kaya, to the universal satisfaction ofthe people, and ceremoniously installed him in his office.

During our stay here I examined the neighbourhood of the village, and met with some former strongholds, the remains of which proved that they must have been extensive. We also found the traces of a long street, enclosed by walls, running east and west through the village, together with the ruins of many stone houses. The natives could give us no clear information concerning them.

On the 8th of September we made ready for our departure. When our people were on the point of embarking in the boats, the above-mentioned Orang Tua of Fannabel came to me to complain that the four slaves had not yet been given up to him, and that if we departed before this took place he would never get them back. I therefore caused it to be announced to the defaulter, that if he did not perform his contract I would take the slaves from his house by force, on which they were immediately given up. After having impressed him with a sense of the injustice and impropriety of conduct he had been guilty of, I caused my interpreter to draw up, in Arab characters, a solemn agreement of mutual reconciliationand friendship, which was signed by both parties, who promised in my presence that they would henceforward live together in amity.

The Orang Kaya, with all his chiefs, accompanied us on board, and took a friendly farewell of us, after having received some presents of coffee and arrack. On the same day we left our anchorage off Wadia, and stood to the southward under press of sail, towards the Tenimber Islands.

The day after our departure we sighted the island Vordate to the south-west. From a distance of about twenty miles on this side, this island appears alternately hilly and flat, like irregular mountains, while the neighbouring islands, Larrat, Timor-laut, &c., have a more level appearance. Several reefs extend a considerable distance to seaward from the south-east end of the island.

We continued during the night under easy sail, and the following morning, under the guidance of the pilot, we passed along the west side of Vordate, at a distance of about six miles from the shore. Off the north point, a mile to seaward, lies a rock, for which reason the point must not be made free with. The villages, inwhich were displayed a number of small flags, alternating with the fertile valleys, presented an alluring picture to us. As we passed a number of prahus came rowing towards us, the people in which called out to us to anchor off their village. The pilot, however, affirming that there was good anchorage near Larrat, we continued our course without accepting the invitation of the islanders. We crossed the extensive reef of Larrat in irregular depths of three, four and five fathoms, and ran along the north-west coast towards the mouth of a bay, which is formed between the island of Larrat and the point of Timor-laut.

On approaching the entrance of the bay, I clearly perceived that there was no possibility of the brig being able to enter. On perceiving this, the pilot, as is usual with natives under similar circumstances, became completely cast down, and all that I could learn from him was that he had never visited the island before except during the westerly monsoon, and then only in small vessels which they could row over the reefs. This was all very true; but had he only given me the slightest idea of the situation of the bay, I should certainly not have come here; but it was now necessaryto make a virtue of necessity, and come to a speedy determination. The wind blew directly out of the mouth of the bay, which was very narrow, so that there was no possibility of working in. We could obtain no bottom with the deep-sea lead and one hundred fathoms of line, while we were everywhere surrounded by shoals. I therefore sent the boats to lie on the edge of the coral reef which fronts the village of Watidal, and then stood on, hoping that our anchor might hook a rock and hold fast; but, although the anchor was let go in four fathoms water, it had dragged into twelve fathoms before the ship was brought up, while under the stern there was thirty-eight fathoms. A kedge was then carried out astern, to prevent the tide from swinging the ship on to the reef.

Before the sails could be furled, or the boarding nettings spread, the brig was surrounded on all sides by a number of canoes, and I had no sooner given permission to a couple of natives to come on board, than the others all followed, so that, in a less space of time than five minutes, the brig was full of men, who had crept on board through the ports and every place wherethey could find admission. With a view to inspire them with confidence I permitted them to enter, and received them in as friendly a manner as possible, the distribution of some glasses of arrack among them contributing not a little to produce the desired effect.

The village off which we had anchored, like all on these islands, was erected on a hill of limestone rock, near the sea shore. These villages present a very picturesque appearance: they consist, according to their population, of from twenty to fifty houses, erected near each other, upon piles from six to eight feet high. These dwellings are from twenty to twenty-five feet long by twelve to fifteen broad. They are enclosed on all sides, and have a couple of long holes cut in the walls to serve for windows. The roofs are covered with a thatch of palm leaves, these being first arranged on small sticks, and then placed neatly on the roof, overlapping each other. The interior is usually kept in good order; but every part is blackened with smoke from the fires they employ in cooking their provisions. The house is entered by a door in the centre of the floor, to which the inhabitants ascend by means of a ladder.Against the wainscoat, immediately fronting the door, is placed a small scaffold of carved wood, having upon it a large dish, containing the skull of one of the forefathers of the owner of the house, whose weapons are also hung around it. These consist of bows made of bamboo, bound round with thread, and provided with strings of buffalo hide, and of arrows three feet and a half long, made of thin reed or rattan, with sharp iron points. With these they are able to bring down a hen or other bird at the distance of sixty or seventy paces, rarely or never missing their mark. In addition to these weapons they have muskets, lances with iron points, old swords and long parangs. These last, which they obtain from the Ceramese and Macassars, have their handles covered with sharks' skin, and ornamented with handsome shells, a small metal bell being usually appended to it. The combs and necklaces of the inhabitants, which I shall describe more fully when speaking of their mode of dress, are also displayed on this stage. Round the interior of the house against the wall is erected a framework, a foot and a half from the floor, which serves for beds by night and for seats by day.These are occupied chiefly by the women, the men squatting down on the floor in the centre of the room.

On the right side of the entrance is placed a clay fire-place, supported by a wooden stand, on which the provisions of the inmates are cooked, these last being kept upon a large shelf above the fire-place. Their more valuable property is hung around on the wall, or preserved under the benches which line the wall. Upon the whole, their dwellings present an appearance of greater neatness than those of the inhabitants of the islands to the westward.

Before reaching the village it is necessary to pass the spot where their dead is deposited, the interment of whom is attended with several curious ceremonies. The body is wrapped in cloth, usually coarse Mirzapore chintz, and put into a coffin made of rough planks, fastened with wooden pins, a dish being placed under the head. The coffin is then taken to the burial ground, and wrapped round with the above-mentioned coarse chintz, after which it is deposited on a stage raised four or five feet from the ground. A piece of Mirzapore chintz, fastened to a long bamboo stick,is hoisted over the burial place, and a paling is erected round it, on which are hung baskets containing fruits, cooked yams, fowls, rice and other provisions, which are occasionally renewed. The heat of the sun, and the rains, soon cause the chintz in which the coffin has been enveloped, to decay and fall off, but it is immediately renewed, and another dish placed under the skull. Should the body be that of a rich man, or of the relative of one of the village chiefs, the skull is removed to the house, and placed in a conspicuous spot, as I have before mentioned. If, on the other hand, the body is that of a poor man, the remains are thrown together into a cleft in a rock, or some such place, as soon as the coffin has decayed. The bodies of malefactors are buried at once, without anything being erected to mark the place of interment. The remains of human beings are never to be seen scattered about, and it is extremely difficult to obtain a skull from the natives. I have frequently seen the entire skeleton through the sides of the coffin, when it has become full of holes through age and decay. During still weather an intolerable smell arises from thesecemeteries; but the natives appear not to suffer the least inconvenience from it.

The vessels of the natives are usually hauled up on the beach near these burial places, and protected from the weather by sheds similar to our boat-houses. These vessels are chiefly of the kind called "jonkos," which are either built here or on the island Baba. They are constructed of rough planks, fastened to each other by wooden pins, and bound to the timbers with bands of rattan. Saws are never employed in cutting the planks, neither are iron nails ever used in the construction of their vessels. The sides of thejonkosare held apart by thwarts, upon which a deck of bamboos is laid, so that, when complete, they may be considered as tight and seaworthy. The gunwale is usually two or three feet above the level of the water. Their length is from forty to fifty feet; breadth from ten to twelve feet; and they carry from twelve to sixteen tons. A roof ofatapcovers the whole.

Each village usually possesses two or three of these vessels, the property of the entire community; but they have also numerous canoes with outriggers, some of which are large enough tocontain a thatched habitation. These craft are employed in fishing, or in the transport of goods from island to island.

On making enquiries concerning the trading vessels which came here, I learned, among other things, that during the previous year a vessel under the English flag had arrived at the east extremity of Timor-laut, the master of which sent his boat on shore to purchase provisions, giving out that he had been necessitated to visit the place from a great mortality and sickness having occurred among his crew. In how far this was the case, I will leave to the judgment of those who are aware of the artifices of the English, in order to carry on a smuggling trade in these parts,[35]and, above all, to import prohibited goods, such as gunpowder and ammunition. Thus was the brig, in name (dakleijen), loaded only with roofing slates and iron, but, in fact, she had a large number of muskets, swordsand other weapons on board. The captain agreed with the natives to give weapons in exchange for stock, and went on shore with half his crew, which consisted of ten Europeans. In the mean time the natives considered this to be a fine opportunity to overpower those who remained on board, and gain possession of the vessel. They, therefore, boarded her unexpectedly in great numbers, and murdered the people in her, while at the same time those on shore were made away with, with the exception of two boys, who owed their preservation to the interposition of the women. After this crime had been committed, they hauled the brig on shore, stripped her of all they could carry away, and burned her. The plundered goods were shared out among the inhabitants, and part of them sold to the traders who visited them, the remainder being kept, and now, perhaps, serving as finery for the inhabitants of the east coast of Timor-laut. One of the village chiefs stated to me on this occasion, that he had himself seen the chain cable of the brig hanging around the village, and that two iron carronades which had belonged to her lay there upon the ground, the natives not having, yet mustered sufficient courage to fire them off.

I fixed the day subsequent to our arrival for a general meeting of the people, at which I might make known the benevolent intentions of the Government, and the object of my visit. One of the Orang Kayas of Serra was accidentally here, making preparations for his return home, so that I had a good opportunity of sending an invitation to all the chiefs of that island to come and see me, as I could not promise with confidence to visit them in their own villages.

We have already seen proofs of the desire shown by the natives to adopt, in some particular or other, the mode of dress of our countrymen. As may be supposed, they have no idea whatever of making clothes, and this is the chief reason of their having such a ludicrous appearance when clad in their European vestments. They were, therefore, not a little delighted at finding that I had had several coats made on board, of red, blue and green cloth, which I gave to them, in addition to the Government presents. Garments of this description are not only viewed as a dress of state, but are considered as distinguished tokens of honour; and it will, therefore, readily be conceived that they are preserved withthe greatest care as heirlooms, and used only on festive occasions.

Early on the morning of the 12th, I went on shore with a numerous escort, and under the customary salute from the guns. In the middle of the village of Watidal a booth had been erected, and covered with the sails of vessels, under which were numerous seats of plank, the part assigned to me, as Vakeel or Embassador of the Dutch Government, being arranged with especial care, and covered with fine coloured calico. Voluntary homage to our Government was apparent in all their actions. The people not only filled the booth, but surrounded it on all sides, leading me to believe that the entire population, young and old, were present. The presents were received with the loudest expressions of joy and thankfulness. The entire day was spent in installing the village chiefs, and making arrangements for preserving peace and unity among them. The villages are all independent of one another, each having its own territory, consisting of a portion of land, and contiguous trepang banks, and being governed by its own chief. So long, therefore, as they respect theproperty of their neighbours, and live according to the old usages of their forefathers, they remain in perfect peace with each other. The upper chief, whom I appointed for Watidal, was an aged man, not at all deficient in good sense and ability. He spoke very good Malayan, although the language of the natives consists of a peculiar dialect, in which point there is a remarkable difference between them and the people of the neighbouring islands.

I could no where discover any remains which would point out that an officer of the East India Company had resided here, whence I concluded that the Dutch had not visited these islands for a long series of years.

The authority of our Government here was more necessary than one would be led to suppose, from the state of society which exists among these people. The chiefs are respected by the common men as the oldest, the most experienced, and the richest among the inhabitants; they are consulted when differences occur, and their decision is usually respected; but they still want, to give force to their authority, an act of appointment from our Government. The considerate reader, who will alreadyhave perceived in the particulars previously related, how fond these simple people are of outward show, will not be surprised to find that such an installation is considered as an important epoch in the history of their country, and that they wished to celebrate the day on which they were visited by an officer of the Netherlands Government, after so long a period of neglect, with all joy and solemnity, as a national festivity.

The want of a formal act of appointment from the Dutch Government has been attended with results very detrimental to the welfare of the natives, especially those of Watidal. In the time of the Ceramese Hongie-togten,[36]the chiefs of Watidal had been presented with sticks provided with knobs, on which the arms of the Company were engraven. This token of alliance with us was not sufficient to prevent the covetous Ceramese from practising extortion upon them, and when the chiefs complained openly to the Company, and stedfastly refused all irregular contributions, the Ceramese did not hesitate to plunder and rob them in open enmity. This would not have taken place had the chiefs beenappointed with more solemnity, and provided with regular acts of appointment, in which case their subjects would have been more subordinate to their control, and the Ceramese rovers would have been withheld from plundering by dread of punishment.

FOOTNOTES:[34]These are called imitation calicoes, from their being European imitations of the pattern and material of the cotton manufactures of India.—Ed.[35]In Marsden's Malayan Grammar, among the letters given in the Appendix, will be found a remarkable example of these English tricks. An English captain came to the King of Tringanu, with a pretended letter of recommendation from the Governor-General of India; asked permission to enter the river to repair, and smuggled several chests of opium on shore![36]Expedition for the extirpation of the spice trees, undertaken in the time of the old (Dutch) East India Company.

[34]These are called imitation calicoes, from their being European imitations of the pattern and material of the cotton manufactures of India.—Ed.

[35]In Marsden's Malayan Grammar, among the letters given in the Appendix, will be found a remarkable example of these English tricks. An English captain came to the King of Tringanu, with a pretended letter of recommendation from the Governor-General of India; asked permission to enter the river to repair, and smuggled several chests of opium on shore!

[36]Expedition for the extirpation of the spice trees, undertaken in the time of the old (Dutch) East India Company.

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