CHAPTER XIX.

NEW GUINEA.

Voyage towards the St. Bartholomeus River.—Encounter a Multitude of Whales.—Discover a Sand-bank.—Nautical Remarks.—Difficulty in approaching the Land.—Sharks.—Crocodiles.—Discover a River.—The Author ascends it.—Remarkable Behaviour of the Natives.—Their Wild State.—Unable to land.—Arrival at an uninhabited Bay on the Island of Lakahia.—Visit from some of the Chiefs.

Havingfilled up our water-casks, and put the rigging in order, we left our anchorage off Wadia on the morning of the 22nd of April, and continued our voyage towards New Guinea. Owing to calms we were unable to advance far during the day, but we afterwards were favoured by a steady breeze, which soon carried us out of view of the Arru Islands. Bartholomeus River, (on the south coast of New Guinea), being the point to be first visited, we shaped our course for the south-westextreme of that great island. The winds and weather we experienced during the passage, were very unsteady, the former being generally from the northern quarter. As soon as we passed the Arru Islands, the pilots stated to me that they were unacquainted with the navigation beyond, and were even afraid to proceed any farther. The traders from Ceram, and the islands to the westward, do not penetrate beyond the Arrus.

A number of birds usually came on board the brig towards evening, to roost, most of which appeared to me to be land-birds. The colours of some were very beautiful, and in many we could trace a resemblance to our small ducks, magpies and larks.

When to the north-east of the Arru Islands we obtained soundings, for the first time, on a corally bottom; but as we stood to the south-west the depth gradually decreased, the bottom changing from coral to sand, and from sand to soft mud. We encountered daily an immense number of large Noord-kapers (a species of whale), which collected around the brig, and on two occasions one of these sea-monsters passed under her bottom, grazing the keel, and shaking the entire vessel.

At noon, on the 26th, we passed over a small patch of hard sand, on which we had only nine fathoms, the depth around being nineteen and twenty fathoms mud. This, which was named Kolff Bank, was found to lie in latitude 7 deg. south, longitude 136 deg. 4 min. east.[45]

On the night of the 27th, while steering to the south-south-east, the depth gradually decreased, but the bottom still continued muddy. This made me suspect that we were approaching False Cape, (or Cape Valsche), the south-west extreme of New Guinea. On steering south the depth increased to twenty-six fathoms, but after hauling up north-east and east-north-east we had only five and six fathoms, which, coupled with a swell from the south and south-east, led me to conclude that we had passed the Cape. In the evening, when the atmosphere cleared up, we saw the land to the northward, and soon brought up to await the day. During the night we experienced north-east winds, with heavy rain, and a current of six miles from the east-south-east. Rise and fall between seven and eight feet.

As opportunity offered, we stood in and outfrom the shore—never being able to approach nearer than eight miles, the depth at that distance being only three fathoms, but further to seaward it increased very rapidly, the first cast of the lead, when standing off the edge of the bank, giving five fathoms. The land was everywhere low, and covered with large trees. I endeavoured as much as possible to approach the land, either with the brig or with the boats, but was always prevented by the mud-bank. Between the Cape and St. Bartholomeus River, we saw no opening that would admit our entrance.

Having arrived off the mouth of the St. Bartholomeus River, which is easily distinguished, as the points forming the entrance are a considerable distance apart, the unfavourable state of the weather, coupled with an increasing swell raised by the strong south-east wind, determined me to return towards False Cape; being the more inclined to do so, from the brig, which was anchored nine miles from the shore, rolling heavily, from being forced by the tide to lie across the swell, and having already carried away several of the shrouds of the lower rigging.

The large islands in the Indian Archipelago, generally, have a considerable influence on the wind,causing land and sea breezes; but here it was not the case. This circumstance was injurious to the objects of the voyage, as we were unable to contend against the strength of the south-east monsoon, being thus prevented from passing farther to the eastward. To have fully examined and laid down this part of the coast would have required more time than we could bestow upon it. We ascertained the south extreme of the land to lie in latitude 8 deg. 25 min. south, while the longitude of the mouth of St. Bartholomeus River, by chronometers and lunar observations, was found to be 139 deg. 2 min. 25 sec. east of Greenwich. I have laid down the trending of the land in the accompanying chart as accurately as I could, and am confident of the correctness of the positions assigned to the principal points.

On the 3rd of May we stood back to the westward, and passed round False Cape without having any opportunity of landing, although, being now on a weather shore, we were able to employ the boats with more safety. An immense number of large and small sharks always attended the brig, many of which were caught by the ship's company. On the 7th, while the boats were rowing as usual along the mud-bank, smoke wasseen to arise from the shore, and on nearing the spot a number of people were seen climbing up into the trees, who fled into the forest as the boats approached. We were here again disappointed, for the low marshy land was fronted by an extensive mud-bank, which forbade our approach. This bank was covered with crocodiles, which took flight on seeing the boats.

We continued running along shore until the 8th, when we entered a wide channel, carrying a depth of six and seven fathoms close into the south shore, while the land on the opposite side was scarcely visible. We anchored in seven fathoms within the entrance, and the same night I left the brig in the boats, accompanied by the surgeon, the clerk, and the interpreters, for the purpose of ascending the river. We passed up along the south shore, which was still low, marshy, and well-wooded, and having ascended about twenty-eight miles we turned back towards the brig, as I judged it inadvisable to proceed further, the continued rain being likely to give rise to sickness among the boats' crews. The breadth of the river throughout was about five miles, the depth being about eight fathoms in mid-channel, and three fathoms within half a cable's lengthfrom the shore. The tides were very regular, the ebb appearing to be rather the stronger. Rise and fall ten feet. The water abounded with fish, and the shores were covered with birds bearing much resemblance to geese, white ducks, snipes, &c. No natives were seen during the excursion, nor were any traces of them seen, with the exception of two old canoes, formed of hollowed trees, which were half buried in the mud. The tameness of the birds would lead to the conclusion that they were but little acquainted with man. Only one of the numerous small creeks we met with produced fresh water, and this was sixteen miles from the sea. From the creek to the sea, the shore was inaccessible on account of the mud-bank which fronted it.

This previously unknown river received the name of Dourga River. The mouth was found to lie in lat. 7 deg. 12 min. south, long. 138 deg. 44 min. east.[46]

Having arrived on board on the 12th, we weighed and stood west-north-west, north-west, and north, along the edge of the mud-bank; the water was yellow and muddy, the shadows of the clouds thrown upon it giving it the appearance of being full of reefs and banks. The coast, which we could not approach nearer than from ten to twelve miles, formed several bays hereabouts.

On the 13th, being between the parallels of 6 deg. and 6 deg. 30 min. south, we were enabled to near the land, and seeing smoke arise to the northward of us we stood towards it, and shortly perceived a number of small houses on the sandy beach, off which we came to anchor in three fathoms, about four miles distant from the shore. A number of men were running to and fro on the beach, and I lowered one of the boats down for the purpose of communicating with them. Several small prahus, containing seven or eight men each, now came towards the vessel, and having approached within musket-shot, turned back towards the shore. With a view to give them confidence I sent the crew down below, and caused the pilots and interpreters to call out to them; but their answers were unintelligible. Seeingthat they were afraid to come on board, I sent one of the interpreters with six native seamen in the boat, unarmed, with a view to conciliate them by presents of spirits, tobacco, &c., which were shown to them, and then launched towards them on a plank. Our endeavours, however, were unsuccessful; for they were as much afraid of the boat as of the brig, and retreated on its approach. I therefore called the boat on board again, on which the natives remained quiet for some time, until the number of their prahus were increased to twelve, when they suddenly rowed towards the brig with a loud shout, stopping, however, when still at a little distance. I again showed them the presents, and called to them in the Papuan language, but with the same result as before. I again sent the boat towards them, without the interpreter, being able to get near, and it had no sooner commenced returning than the natives followed with loud cries, taking up their bows and arrows, but stopping short when the people in the boat ceased rowing. This mode of proceeding continued for some time, and, at length, seeing that the natives had their bows strung ready for attack, I fired a blank shot towards them, on which they all threwthemselves flat on their faces for a few moments, and then paddled away for the shore with all their might.

These people appeared to be of large stature, with jet-black skins, and curled hair. They went entirely naked, and no scarifying of the skin, or other mode of ornamenting, was visible on their persons. In two of the prahus I remarked several men whose skins were of a whitish colour. They appeared to be chiefly young men, not one among them being advanced in years. Two of the eldest-looking wore the skins of animals.

While the prahus were pulling towards shore, a man stood up in one of them, with a thick bamboo in his hand, out of which he threw something that appeared to me to be ashes.[47]When the boats approached them they also threwwater up in the air, and showed their teeth like enraged dogs. My interpreter assured me that these people were so inhuman as to devour their prisoners taken in war, which appeared probable enough, if we may judge from the above grimaces.

The huts of these negroes, which are scattered along the beach, are low and open on all sides, the roof being composed of palm leaves. The soil around the village was white sand, on which many large trees grew, manycarwarinasbeing among them. A small river ran into a bay immediately opposite to our anchorage. On going on shore we were as unsuccessful as on the water, in our attempts to communicate with these shy people, as they always fled on our approach, and climbed into the trees at a distance. To judge from the number of houses and men that we saw, the coast hereabouts must be very populous. We saw at a distance some other houses, which appeared to be much larger than those on the beach. Some bones, probably those of buffaloes, were met with, but not the least trace of agriculture, arts or civilization. I was sorry, nevertheless, at not being able to communicate with the natives, for the next morning I continued my voyage, it being tolerably certain that all endeavoursto make friends with them would be fruitless.

Shortly after our departure we suddenly struck soundings in two and a half fathoms, having had from ten to fifteen fathoms immediately before. We continued for several successive days standing along shore, as close as we could with safety, without finding a spot in which we could anchor within a convenient distance of the shore. During the nights we had bad weather, the rain continually pouring down; and the swell from the southward increasing every day.

On the 16th we saw high land for the first time, the extreme being far in the interior, between the meridians of 137 deg. and 138 deg. east. We remarked that several rivers here entered the sea, but so heavy a surf prevailed everywhere that we could not approach, being repeatedly obliged to bring up at a distance of from seven to eight miles from the shore, owing to our coming suddenly from five to three and a half fathoms. On the 17th, while sailing along shore, we often attempted to stand in, but were always stopped by reefs; while at six miles off the shore we had twenty to twenty-five fathoms. I regretted much that the strong winds and heavy sea prevented me from examiningthe different creeks which we saw, although the interpreters assured me that the inhabitants were in a state of the utmost barbarism. On the following day we again stood in, and obtained no bottom with the lead at a distance of four miles off shore, the hills here running steep off into the sea. We saw some dwellings about the meridian of 130 deg. east, but were unable to approach them. The coast was now known to the pilot, who assured me that he knew a spot in the neighbourhood where we might obtain fresh water, and having stood off for the night, we endeavoured at daylight to enter under his direction between an island and the northern part of a deep bay. The decrease of the depth, however, soon caused us to stand out to sea again, the pilot excusing himself by saying, that he always entered here with prahus, and thought that there was water enough for the brig also.

Being desirous of communicating with the people of the island, and if possible to obtain fresh water, I again stood in towards the island, and anchored in five fathoms west-south-west of it. We had previously seen smoke arise from the shore, which our interpreters stated to be a signal of welcome, which induced me, after anchoring, to send theboat on shore with the interpreters, for the purpose of bringing some of the natives on board the brig. In the afternoon the boat returned with three of the chiefs, who at first appeared afraid; but after I had given them some rice and arrack they became more at their ease. The Raja, an aged man, danced, sang, and made a number of curious gestures. He could not speak Malayan, but with the aid of the interpreters we were enabled to converse in their own language. As a proof of friendship I gave the old Raja akabyaand a handkerchief for the head, distributing presents of the same description among the others, with a promise of more if they would come on board the next day.

I informed them, that the only object of my visit to these parts was to offer the friendship of the Dutch Government to the natives, and at the same time to afford protection to the traders who frequent the neighbourhood. They shouted in praise of the Company and of the Ceramese, especially the Raja of Kilwari; and, on the other hand, expressed their detestation of the Chinese, the Bughis, and the Macassars. On my enquiry whether any of the last-mentioned people were in the habit of visiting them, they answered that they were not,but that they gained much information concerning them from the Ceramese.[48]

I mentioned to the Raja and his friends, that I should send the boats on shore next morning to obtain water, and that our men, as usual, would be armed, which they must not suppose to arise from any want of confidence. I also stated my intention of visiting their village in person towards noon, at which they expressed much satisfaction, and taking leave, with a hearty shake of the hand, promised that the villagers should employ themselves in fishing, and send the greater part of the produce on board the brig. At seven o'clock the boat carried them ashore, after they had received a parting present of arrack and tobacco.

FOOTNOTES:[45]In the chart prepared by M. Kolff, the longitude assigned for this bank is 136 deg. 48 min. east.—Translator.[46]This opening was also entered two years subsequently by the Dutch corvetteTritonand schoonerIris, when it was still supposed to be a river; but in 1835, Lieut. Kaal, of the Dutch navy, passed through it out to sea, proving the Dourga and St. Bartholomew Rivers to be the north-west and south-east entrances of a strait which cuts off the south-west extreme of New Guinea, and forms an island about one hundred miles long and sixty broad.—Translator.[47]Captain Cook, during his first voyage, touched at a village on the south-west coast of New Guinea, whose position agrees with this, and had an encounter with the natives, in which lives were lost on the part of the latter. The people of theEndeavourobserved, also, the singular proceeding above alluded to, and at first supposed that the natives had fire-arms. From the remarks of M. Modera, of the Dutch corvetteTriton, it appears that the composition thrown out of the bamboos consists of lime, ashes and sand, which were ejected for the purpose of making signals to friends at a distance.—Translator.[48]This disgraceful information of the Ceramese was influenced, probably, by their envy and jealousy of the others.

[45]In the chart prepared by M. Kolff, the longitude assigned for this bank is 136 deg. 48 min. east.—Translator.

[46]This opening was also entered two years subsequently by the Dutch corvetteTritonand schoonerIris, when it was still supposed to be a river; but in 1835, Lieut. Kaal, of the Dutch navy, passed through it out to sea, proving the Dourga and St. Bartholomew Rivers to be the north-west and south-east entrances of a strait which cuts off the south-west extreme of New Guinea, and forms an island about one hundred miles long and sixty broad.—Translator.

[47]Captain Cook, during his first voyage, touched at a village on the south-west coast of New Guinea, whose position agrees with this, and had an encounter with the natives, in which lives were lost on the part of the latter. The people of theEndeavourobserved, also, the singular proceeding above alluded to, and at first supposed that the natives had fire-arms. From the remarks of M. Modera, of the Dutch corvetteTriton, it appears that the composition thrown out of the bamboos consists of lime, ashes and sand, which were ejected for the purpose of making signals to friends at a distance.—Translator.

[48]This disgraceful information of the Ceramese was influenced, probably, by their envy and jealousy of the others.

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