CHAPTER XV.

THE TENIMBER ISLANDS.

The Village Chiefs of Sebeano.—Ludicrous Mistake.—War between Romian and Ewena.—The insignificant Cause which gave rise to it.—Successful Attempts at Reconciliation.—Contribution towards giving a Knowledge of their Character.—State of the Country.—Productions and Commerce.—The Author visits Larrat.—Uncivil Reception at Kalioba.—Departure for Watidal.—Meeting on the North-west Point of Timor-Laut.—Departure for Serra.

Wereturned on board, accompanied by a numerous party ofSohbats, or friends, a considerable number having preceded. I found that the chiefs of Sebeano had been alongside, but without venturing on board: they returned, however, on the following morning. I received this numerous company on deck, the cabin being too small for so many guests. A glass of arrack and a little Java tobacco formed the most acceptable refreshment I could offer them. The chiefs of Sebeanoand some others were extremely alarmed, speaking in a tremulous manner, and being scarcely able to bring out the words they wished to utter.

It accidentally happened that while we were sitting together on deck, it became necessary to spread the awning, on which the officer of the watch ordered the men aft to perform this duty. The word of command for this is usually given with much quickness, and a number of men instantly came aft to obey it, whose sudden appearance caused such a panic in the breasts of the chiefs, that many of them sprang on their feet in a moment, and some actually popped overboard through the ports, while two of them rushed down the companion and concealed themselves in the cabin. All this happened so suddenly, that at first I could not imagine the cause. The others, who were somewhat acquainted with the usages of a ship, remained seated, and laughed heartily at the ungrounded fears of their more ignorant countrymen. The chiefs of Sebeano now seeing their mistake, returned on board very much ashamed, and making ludicrous gestures.

I returned to the shore in the morning, according to my promise, having previously sent twenty seamen, according to my usual custom, to addmore solemnity to the meeting. In the mean time the interpreters had returned, with the agreeable intelligence that the chiefs would willingly receive my intervention, and abide by the decision I might come to.

An enquiry into the causes of their wars will assist in giving an idea of the disposition of these people: I will, therefore, give a short account of the causes of the enmity which had arisen against the people of Romian, which were as follows:—

The people of Romian happened to have more success at the trepang fishery than the people of the other villages during two successive years, which gave rise to an envious feeling on the part of their neighbours, which was increased by a Chinese vessel having remained at Romian to trade, while only one of the Chinamen belonging to her proceeded to Ewena, to barter with the inhabitants. These circumstances gave rise to distrust and estrangement, and the people of both villages began to avoid each other, though without coming to an open rupture.

A third accidental circumstance which occurred, tended to enlarge the breach. While the children belonging to the two villages were playing with small bows and arrows, a child from Ewena happenedto wound slightly one of those from Romian. The inhabitants of the latter place viewing the accident as an intentional offence, demanded satisfaction, and whenever parties from each village met, they proceeded from words to blows, and at length broke out into open war with each other. Each party robbed the other of their women, destroyed their fisheries, and put a stop to their agriculture, becoming more embittered at the occurrence of every deed, until at length, a few weeks before my arrival, a downright skirmish ensued, in which the people of Ewena had one man killed and nine wounded, while ten belonging to the other party were wounded also.

The people of Ewena, being the less powerful of the two, demanded assistance from the inhabitants of Aweer, to some of whose warriors the badge of honour, called the korra-korra,[39]was delivered. The parties now became so exasperated, that there existed no possibility of those who hadnot entered into the quarrel being able to pacify them, and the strife soon extended to Larrat, and even to the more distant Serra, where individuals, influenced by family connections, took up the cause of one or the other party. Thus, we find in these distant parts of the globe a confirmation of the fact, that wars and other important events spring from the most insignificant causes. The narrative of these differences afforded me a new proof of how unfortunate these ignorant and uncivilized people are, when they are from under the protection of the Dutch Government, and have been left to themselves for a long series of years.

On my return to the shore I had the satisfaction to perceive, that both parties had laid aside their weapons, but without having renewed their former familiarity. I landed between the two villages, at a spot where I had caused a tent of canvass to be erected, to shelter ourselves and the escort.

As soon as I found that both parties would abide by my decision, I judged it advisable to bring the chiefs together, and to reconcile them as well as possible, in order to render it moreeasy to comply with their mutual demands. I also hoped that by being brought together, each party would be inclined to use more courtesy to the other, and I did not hesitate to make them acquainted with my object, promising, at the same time, that I would decide with justice and impartiality. I promised also to stand security for the personal safety of the chiefs of each party; but in spite of this I had the greatest difficulty in inducing them to come forward, and place themselves, one party to the right, and the other to the left of me and my men. Having, at length, succeeded, I brought to their view the mutual detriment that ensued from their discord. The Malayan language, in which I addressed them, was interpreted to them by my linguists. After some time this address appeared suddenly to affect them, and the chiefs of both parties burst into tears, and unanimously entreated me to effect a reconciliation, promising to make any reparation that I might think proper. I took advantage of this favourable opportunity; and placing the hands of the opposing chiefs together, wished that good fortune might attend their reconciliation. This struck them so forcibly that they fell on eachother's necks, and a salvo was immediately fired from the muskets of our party, and from the one-pounders in the boats. The chiefs now sat down in a circle before the tent, and tooksirifrom each other's boxes, as a solemn proof of sincere reconciliation, the interpreters being also requested to partake of it. A glass of arrack was also distributed to each of the by-standers by my steward, and by way of strengthening the renewed friendship, my interpreter delivered a very appropriate and affecting prayer, which met with a most enthusiastic reception. Many of the words uttered by the interpreter were repeated with fervour by the by-standers, from which it was evident that they had been heard attentively.

After this I thought of making a visit to Sebeano; and leaving one of the interpreters behind, withdrew from the assembly, with the promise that I would afterwards enquire into the arrangement of their mutual demands. I have already remarked that, under similar circumstances, the natives should be left to their own deliberations for a certain time, in order to arrive at the desired end.

From the speedy manner in which this reconciliationwas effected, it will perhaps be supposed, that the task of making peace among these people is an easy one; but such is not the case. My patience was sometimes nearly exhausted, for I was obliged to go, certainly, ten times from one village to the other before I could induce the contending parties to come together; and although it was always my wish to effect my object by means of mild remonstrances, I was now and then obliged to make use of serious threats. The good result which usually attended my efforts, incited me to persevere and spare no trouble; but yet, as it will subsequently appear, my labours were sometimes almost insupportable.

On my return to the brig I found that it was too late to carry into effect the plan I had proposed, and I therefore employed the following day in attending to the affairs of Sebeano and the villages lying to the northward, this mode of proceeding giving satisfaction to all parties.

Sebeano, which consisted of about twenty houses, was situated on the sea-coast, an hour's walk to the northward of our position; and two hour's journey beyond this again, was Adodo, a village similar in point of size and situation to the other.Midway between the brig and Sebeano, a small river ran into the sea, from which we filled our water. A still larger river emptied itself between Aweer and Ewena.

M. Dielwaart and myself, accompanied by the interpreters, spent the early part of the morning in examining the island, which proved to be tolerably well cultivated, and fertile in the extreme. Our path lay over hills, the summits of which afforded us a beautiful prospect of the surrounding country; fine fenced plantations, in which huts were erected for watch-houses, being visible in every direction.

The stock produced on the island consists chiefly of hogs, goats and fowls, the latter being in so great abundance, that three or four were to be purchased for a chopping-knife. These knives, with thick brass wire, parangs, dishes, basins, bottles, red beads, coarse cloths of red and other colours, are the articles most in demand as payment for stock and provisions. Dresses made at Great Timor and Kissa are also much esteemed; as are elephants' tusks, gongs, Javanese dresses, and gold and silver coin, the last being in demand for the manufacture of ear-rings and other ornaments.

The fishery is carried on here in a very simplemanner. Neither nets nor lines are made use of, the fish being taken at the rising of the tide by means of bamboo spears, some of which are provided with ten or twelve small points,[40]while others have only a single barbed point. Bows and arrows are used by others, who wade knee-deep over the coral banks, which absolutely swarm with fish at that time of the tide; indeed, the abundance is so great, that even by this simple method a short time only is required to obtain sufficient for the daily consumption.

On the 17th I held another meeting of the inhabitants of Ewena and Romian, at which the entire population of these villages were present. When installing the chiefs, whom they had chosen as their Orang Kayas, I observed to them that this title of itself signified nothing, unless they showed obedience to those who possessed it, and gave them much other advice which appeared to me to be applicable to their situation. The Orang Kaya of Aweer having been acknowledged on this occasion as the highest in rank, I presented him with a silver-knobbed baton as a token of his rank, while the others received flags to hoist in theirvillages, and acts of appointment were drawn up for all.

The period from ten o'clock in the morning until two in the afternoon, was passed in settling their old differences. The result was, that the people of Ewena received back the korra-korra above-mentioned, giving in exchange an elephant's tusk; the other affairs being adjusted in a similar manner. We were then invited into the villages, to partake of some refreshments that had been prepared for us, every thing affording proofs of kindness and friendship.

After my return on board, several young men came to me for the purpose of asking a passage to Banda, but I refused, giving as an excuse that the brig was already full. These islanders willingly leave their homes for a period, their object, I believe, being pure curiosity, coupled with a desire to learn a little of the Malayan language, that they may be viewed with greater respect on their return to their own country. Every year some of them leave the island with the Amboynese and Banda traders, who value them much, as they prove very useful on board their vessels. Many occasionally reside at Banda in the Malayankampong, where they lead an idle life, occasionally catching fish,but loitering away the remainder of their time. M. Camphuyzen, the Resident, has often assured me that neither force nor kindness would induce them to lead a laborious life. According to an old custom, which obtains among the Tenimber islanders, those who have committed misdemeanours are often forced to leave their country for a certain time, who may return after a lapse of two or three years, when they are received again with friendship. When the small-pox[41]or other infectious disease appears among them, the patients are sent to the island Mulo, and are not allowed to return until perfectly restored to health. The relatives of these unfortunates show no compunction in leaving them to their fate; and as no one approaches them when under the affliction, they are forced to seek their own subsistence on the shores and amid the forests of the island.

An Orang Tua of Ewena, named David, who, according to his own account, was descended from Christians, joined me as interpreter for a very slight remuneration. In his youth he had been at Amboyna and Banda, where he had made greatprogress in the Malayan language, this accomplishment rendering him of great service to us. He frequently assured me, that the submission of the Tenimberese was not to be depended upon, and only arose from the great dread they entertained of the Company; but I thought that I had reason for placing no belief in what he stated. It will appear, however, from what follows, that the satisfaction I experienced at Vordate soon had a most unpleasant set off.

Having determined to pay a visit to Kalioba, a village on Larrat, immediately opposite to Aweer, and having a smaller village, situated a little to the northward, under its rule, I left the brig with two boats, accompanied by M. Dielwaart, Mr. Leydelmeyer the writer, Mr. Cadet Bolk, and the interpreters. Our reception was apparently courteous: the Dutch flag waved in the village, two shots were fired fromlelahs, and a portion of the villagers appeared on the beach to meet us. I judged, however, from their behaviour and warlike appearance, that we were not so welcome as it seemed, and my opinion was soon confirmed.

We were not invited to enter the village, and as two boat-sheds were erected on the beach, one of which was empty, we took up our quarters underit, and brought the goods up out of the boats, which by this time were no longer afloat, the reefs having fallen dry for some distance out to sea. As the natives continually pressed around us, we posted sentries round the shed, who had great difficulty in keeping out the crowd. With a view to inspire them with confidence, I went entirely unarmed and alone into the village, and visited the chiefs and elders in their houses. Neither women nor children were to be seen, and on my remarking this, I was answered that they had gone out to labour in the plantations.

Our arrival had not been unexpected, as it had already been announced to them from Vordate. The uncourteous reception I met with, therefore, annoyed me extremely, as it could not be otherwise than premeditated.

In the meantime I invited the chiefs to approach me, and made them acquainted with the object of my visit, informing them of the good intentions of the Government; after which I caused the letter to be read to them, and distributed the presents, which were similar in every respect to those given to the chiefs of Vordate. They were received, however, with the greatest indifference, as if they conferred a favour on us by accepting them, and any remarksthat I made on the subject were scarcely listened to. Until late at night they continually importuned us for arrack in the most rude manner, and even went so far as to take away the bottles from among our things without asking leave. We found it to be necessary to take the greatest precaution; and this, coupled with the indifference of our dwelling, which admitted both wind and rain, caused us to pass a very unpleasant night.

From the early part of the morning we were again annoyed by people asking for arrack. We requested the chiefs to furnish us with some water and two earthern pots, in which to cook rice and other provisions, but we received neither; and I was necessitated to send the seamen to a river, a quarter of an hour's walk from us, to obtain some of the former, there being no wells near the village. In the early part of the morning a number of women passed us laden with faggots and bamboos full of water, the rattling of the rings on their legs creating a sound similar to that made by the movements of a gang of chained criminals.

I had given permission to two of the seamen to enter the village, with the view of purchasing some goats and fowls; but these soon returned, stating that they had received very unfriendly treatment inthe village, and had been unable to obtain anything. One of them having laid down his handkerchief, found that it was gone when he returned to take it up. I requested the chiefs to cause it to be given up, but did not succeed in obtaining it, until I had paid the owner of the house in which it was lost, the value of two rupees.

In the morning I commenced again with my duties, but had the greatest difficulty in bringing the chiefs together, those who had received the presents being the least willing to make their appearance. Others represented themselves as chiefs who were not so, and demanded similar presents in a brutal manner, going away grumbling on my refusing to comply with their demands. Neither threats nor remonstrances appeared to have any effect upon them. Although I was extremely annoyed at their proceedings, I could not help attributing it to downright stupidity, and I trust that I have not formed a wrong opinion. They seemed totally to disregard the goodness of the Government, and to forget that my visit was made to them at their own invitation. They requested, however, that I would install their chiefs in the name of the Government, which I complied with, at the same time letting them know that I should assuredly inform theGovernment of the unfriendly reception I had met with from them.

At four o'clock in the afternoon, when high water occurred, we embarked on board the boats, without the chiefs seeming to care more about us, and left this inhospitable place. We now stood towards Watidal, the village off which the brig had anchored on our first arrival, where we took up our quarters under a boat-shed, and after having received a visit of welcome from the chiefs, made up for our want of rest the previous night by a quiet slumber. On the following morning we hauled the boats up to repair some leakages, and dried the articles which had been wetted by the rains we experienced at Kalioba. We afterwards visited the chiefs, and I have the satisfaction of saying, that we were received with the same kindness as before, but somewhat less than that we had experienced at Vordate, which may be attributed to their inferior state of civilization. My steward obtained some fowls, eggs, yams and cocoa-nuts, in exchange for knives, brass-wire, and pieces of cloth. From these we prepared a meal, of which two of the Orang Kayas partook.

In the afternoon a large prahu arrived from Serra, bound to Larrat and Vordate on a tradingvoyage, on board which was one of the chiefs of the former island, who had come for the purpose of paying me a visit. He informed me that the other chiefs would also have come, but were withheld by having heard that the brig had departed from Larrat, they not knowing where she was gone to. The Orang Kaya proceeded with his vessel to Vordate, promising that he would soon return to Serra; and as it appeared to me advisable to pay a visit to that island, particularly as the people in the prahu expressed a strong desire that I should do so, I determined to commence my voyage thither immediately.

Having landed, towards evening, on the north-west point of Timor-Laut, I witnessed a very singular ceremony. About twenty women, ornamented with beads, appeared walking in line with stately steps, some bearing bunches of plantains, and others baskets of yams or cocoa-nuts. Two men, armed with large parangs and other weapons, preceded and followed the train, the whole keeping their eyes fixed on the ground, and bending their steps towards the spot where they deposited their dead. I perceived that they came out of a hut in the forest where they had assembled; and following them at a distance, I found that they decorated thegrave of one of their countrymen with what they had brought, and with signs of strong feeling, turned again towards their homes.

The chiefs of the circumjacent villages fitted out a small prahu in conjunction, which was intended to accompany me to Serra, to the crew of which I paid a small salary. It was necessary for me to obtain such a vessel, as the boats were too full to carry sufficient water for the voyage. The eldest son of the Orang Kaya, who was also one of the village chiefs, having agreed to accompany me, we left our bivouac on the afternoon of the same day, and pursued our voyage towards Serra.

FOOTNOTES:[39]This badge of honour, which had long been in the possession of the forefathers of the inhabitants of Romian and Ewena, and had been placed in the keeping of the latter, was the prow of a korra-korra (a large prahu) formed of chased gold, the possessor being entitled to carry a similar badge, made of gilded wood, in his vessels. It is, probably, considered as a talisman; similar superstitions occurring among many of the native nations.[40]This instrument appears to resemble thefishgigin use among the natives of New South Wales.—Translator.[41]Dr. Wilson, in his valuable work on Australia, remarks that the natives of the north coast of Australia are also sufferers from this disease.—Translator.

[39]This badge of honour, which had long been in the possession of the forefathers of the inhabitants of Romian and Ewena, and had been placed in the keeping of the latter, was the prow of a korra-korra (a large prahu) formed of chased gold, the possessor being entitled to carry a similar badge, made of gilded wood, in his vessels. It is, probably, considered as a talisman; similar superstitions occurring among many of the native nations.

[40]This instrument appears to resemble thefishgigin use among the natives of New South Wales.—Translator.

[41]Dr. Wilson, in his valuable work on Australia, remarks that the natives of the north coast of Australia are also sufferers from this disease.—Translator.

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