CHAPTER XXI.

THE KI AND TENIMBER ISLANDS.

The Ki Islands.—Character of the People.—Arrive at Vordate.—Improved Condition of the Natives.—Ceramese Pirates.—The English Captives at Luora.—The Author departs for Serra in the Boats.—Meet with a Prahu-tope.—Honesty of the Natives in their Dealings.—Arrival at Serra.—Native Warfare.—Ceremonies attending the Peace-making.—Return towards Vordate.—Turtles and their Eggs.—Wild Cattle.—Arrival on Board the Brig.—Singular Customs with regard to Trade.—Demand for Gold Coin.—Departure from the Tenimber Islands.—Arrival at Amboyna.—Approval of our Proceedings by the Government.—Conclusion.

Wenow left the inhospitable country of New Guinea, and steered to the southward, passing near the Ki Islands. This group is composed of several large and high islands, thinly peopled in comparison with those around. Ki-Ili, on the east side of the Great Ki, is occupied by a number of natives professing the Mohammedan religion,who carry on a brisk trade with the people of the Arru Islands. Among the inhabitants of the group are many fugitives from Banda and Ceram, who reside in the same villages with the natives of the country. The principal islands are called Great Ki, Little Ki, and Ki Watela. Dula, a village situated in a bay on the west side of the Little Ki, is the chief resort of the traders, several paduakans arriving there annually from Macassar, while there is also considerable commercial intercourse carried on with Banda. The people of Dula employ much of their time in building vessels, remarkable for their strength and superiority of build, which are in great demand at Banda, Ceram, and other places in this part of the Archipelago, being esteemed not only for the durability of the timber used in their construction, but also for the cheap rate at which they can be purchased.

Ili is famous for its potteries, most of the adjacent islands deriving their supply of earthen-ware from this and the neighbouring villages.

In their dispositions the natives of the Ki Islands are more mild and peaceable than the generality of their neighbours. They claim certain rights over vessels which may be strandedon their shores, and assume some other privileges not remarkable for their justness; but this is rather to be attributed to the system having been long established, than to any inherent propensities to extortion.

During our voyage to the Tenimber Islands we encountered heavy south-east winds, the monsoon being much stronger, and the rains heavier this year, than is usually the case. I heard the same remark made at every place I visited.

On the 26th of May we anchored close under the beautiful coast of Vordate, between the reef running from the south-west extreme of the island and the village of Sebeano, this anchorage being better than the one we had taken up the previous year, which was close under the above-mentioned reef. Immediately on our arrival the Dutch flag was hoisted in the villages, and the chiefs came on board with a number of prahus to welcome us back to their island, this affording a proof of the good results attending my previous voyage, which was confirmed on my visiting the shore, and finding that they now lived in perfect amity with one another. The natives came on board daily, and in such numbers, that it soon became troublesome. They are so much in the habit of visitingwith perfect freedom the trading vessels which resort to their shores, that they considered themselves justified in doing the same with us, it being often a matter of difficulty to keep them out of the brig.

After our departure from these islands the preceding year, a number of the natives had set out on a trading voyage to the islands lying to the westward, maritime pursuits forming their favourite occupation. They were everywhere received with friendship, and having obtained profitable returns for their cargoes, they returned home, impressed with thankfulness towards our Government for having established peace among the islands, and rendered them safe for traders. According to their information, the natives of Moa, Lette, Damma, Luan, and the other islands, were zealously employed in erecting newkota companias, or block-houses, for our residents, hoping that they would soon have Dutch garrisons among them, while the Christian teachers were supplied with necessaries in a most liberal manner. This news gave me the greatest satisfaction, as it proved in the strongest manner that my previous labours had not been fruitless. I afterwards found that many trading vessels from these islands, evenfrom some which had had no communication for years, had visited Banda and Amboyna, causing a remarkable increase in the sale of European manufactures at those places, so that soon a most prosperous trade, coupled with increasing prosperity to the natives, will be the result of the good measures of our Government.

A number of prahus from Kilwari and Kinaos, had taken their station among the islands and banks fronting the west coast of Timor-Laut, to lie in wait for and plunder the traders of the Tenimber Islands as they returned from their commercial voyage to the westward, and had succeeded in mastering two jonkos, the crews of which escaped on shore after losing some of their number. The Ceramese then plundered and burnt their prizes. The Tenimber islanders were extremely indignant at this act of the Ceramese, and made a sad complaint to me, thinking that our Government was already acquainted with the affair, as the Ceramese, when attacking them, called out that they were empowered to act as they did by the Company, and that the Tenimber Islanders should not fire at the Dutch flags which their opponents had received from the Government. It cost me much trouble to convincethem that the Dutch took no part in this shameful transaction; but at length I succeeded by promising that the Government should certainly obtain compensation from the Ceramese for their losses.

The banks and islands to the westward of Timor-Laut are annually visited by Ceramese jonkos, for the purpose of fishing for trepang and tortoise-shell, or picking up any booty that may fall in their way. Several years previously some of these had been bold enough to approach the coast of Vordate during the night, and capture a small fishing prahu with two men, inhabitants of Sebeano. The pirates, who were subjects of the Raja, carried off the men to sell as slaves, but they were fortunate enough to make their escape and return home. They personally related to me this occurrence, and informed me of many other misdeeds on the part of the Ceramese, an account of which I subsequently gave to the Government.

Some time after my return to Amboyna, the Raja of Kilwari was summoned there, and did not deny that his subjects had committed this, and other deeds of the same description, on which he was obliged to pay a fine of, I believe, three hundred guilders (£25) to the TenimberIslanders. The Raja of Kinaos was also amerced for the same transaction.

As one of the chief objects of our voyage was to visit the Island of Serra, we made preparations, soon after our arrival at Vordate, for our expedition thither.

It appeared to me to be impossible for the people of Vordate to perform the promise they had made me, of redeeming the two English youths who were held in captivity by the inhabitants of Luora, on the east coast of Timor-Laut, since they were not in the habit of holding communication with them. They assured me, however, that they had been to Luora, and had found that the inhabitants would not give up their captives unless an extravagant ransom were paid for them, as they wished to marry them to their daughters, that their descendants might boast of having European blood in their veins as well as the people of Vordate, Larrat and Serra, these holding themselves as being in some manner connected with Europeans, from their forefathers having been distinguished as "Anak Compania," or Children of the Company. The Orang Kaya, who was the only chief that visited Timor-Laut during this year, informed me that he hadseen the youths, and had offered a considerable ransom for them without success. During the westerly monsoon, or the period of the changes, Luora may be visited with facility; but at the present time, when the sea breaks against the shore in a terrible manner, such an expedition was not to be thought of for a moment. The natives themselves appeared anxious that the Government would send some one thither.

On the 29th, having hired the Orang Tua David to accompany us as interpreter, we embarked on board the tender and the small boats, and left the brig on our expedition to Serra. Towards evening we arrived at Larrat, where we met with a tope,[51]which had arrived from Banda during the month of April, and was about returning there with a full cargo. The crew complained of the high price of the trepang, but in every other respect were perfectly contented with the result of their commercial transactions. The disturbances which had taken place at Serra had been instrumental in decreasing the supply of trepang and tortoise-shell, as none was now brought fromthat island. The goods belonging to the tope lay in an open boat-house, which was daily visited by numbers of the natives, without the owner having the least fear of losing a single article, the mutual confidence with which the trade is carried on being so great, that the trader allows a native to take away what goods he pleases, merely mentioning the amount of produce that is expected in return, and although the former may have no personal knowledge of the native to whom he has delivered the goods, he never fears that the contract will not be fulfilled. The native immediately commences collecting produce, and never rests until he has made full payment. It is singular that the natives never keep a supply of trepang in hand, and only commence fishing for it when they have received payment in advance.

The Orang Kaya and several of the other chiefs came to pay me a visit, and complained sadly of the conduct of the Ceramese, and of the state of affairs at Serra, which they had in vain endeavoured to reduce to order. They appeared to be much pleased at my intention to visit that island. As the Orang Tua David was not well acquainted with the navigation, I requested the chiefsto hire me a prahu, promising to make them a just remuneration for its services.

The Orang Kaya Kirimassa, and six men, having prepared themselves to attend me with the prahu, I left Larrat the same night. Although the tender carried only two one-pounder guns, with ammunition and provisions, she sailed and rowed so slowly that we did not reach Warrata, a village on the north-west end of Serra, until the 1st of June. This island, with its inhabitants, bear so great a resemblance to Larrat, that it will be unnecessary to enter into a particular description of either.

The reefs which front the shore are dry at low water some distance to seaward, it being then only possible to approach the island through the gaps in the reef. The villages are situated near each other, while the remainder of the island is laid out in plantations of yams and cocoa-nut trees. The inhabitants obtain their supply of rice from the people of Vordate, or from the foreign traders. This product forms an extensive article of importation into these countries, as the nature of the soil prevents its being grown in sufficient quantities for the supply of the islanders.

The inhabitants of Serra received us in a mostfriendly manner, and I immediately commenced making enquiries as to the nature of the disturbance that had taken place. It appeared, that on the return of the chiefs from their visit to me the preceding year with the presents I had made them, a festival was got up to celebrate the event. A considerable quantity of spirits was disposed of on this occasion, and it necessarily occurred that many of the guests became very drunk, and abused one another without mercy. The Orang Kayas Linum, Siwa, and Kitta-Kitta, grossly insulted the Orang Kayas Leeman and Kawa, which greatly grieved the latter and their adherents. From words they soon came to blows, when the two chiefs who had been insulted left their villages, and established themselves with their families on the west coast of the island. The adherents of both parties subsequently encountered one another on several occasions, many being killed and wounded on both sides. Envoys from the other islands endeavoured in vain to establish peace: the offending party wished much to make up the affair, but the others, who had abundance of provisions, were indifferent about the matter. On my arrival, the latter demanded an apology from the Orang Kayas Kitta-Kittaand Linum, with the pay of the warriors whom they had hired, stating, that in the event of these being fulfilled, they were ready to make peace and obey the orders of the Company.

I was received with equal friendship by both parties, and their arms were laid aside at my request, while arrangements were made for a meeting to decide on the terms of peace. The adherents of the offended party had forsaken their village, and encamped about half an hour's journey to the westward, where they had fortified their position with palisades, watch-houses being erected in the trees round about, and garrisoned by armed men. The mode in which the meeting was conducted resembled that of the former ones which had taken place among the islands, yet as it will contribute to display the character of the natives, I will give a slight sketch of the affair.

The spot fixed on by me for the meeting was midway between the abodes of the contending parties, and having sent forward a guard of our men, I proceeded there myself, where I was in a manner almost stormed by weeping women. The offending chiefs came, with the greatest humility, unattended byany followers, while the other party advanced with a proud bearing, fully armed, and accompanied by their national war-music. These were clad in their best array, and certainly made a fine warlike appearance. Some were ornamented with golden chains, others with serpents (the thickness of the little finger) formed of the same metal, while all were provided with golden ear-rings. Many of the warriors had also golden bracelets on their arms, which added considerably to the splendour of their equipment. Two of the wives of the chiefs, dressed in handsome chintzkabyas, were also adorned in a similar manner. When the two parties had approached near each other, they stopped short, and performed their usual war-dance in a fierce and hostile manner, after which I placed the hands of the two principal opposing chiefs together, who immediately fell weeping upon each other's necks, their example being followed by the others, who embraced with tears and sobs of repentance and reconciliation, the whole forming a scene which made a strong impression even on my hardy seamen. Some time elapsed before they partook of thesiri, when all traces of enmity vanished, and all was forgotten and forgiven. I had, certainly, never seen amore striking proof of feeling on the part of these people.

The disturbances that had taken place were stated as the reason why the men, who had killed our seaman at Maktia, had not been obtained, nor the two English youths at Luora set at liberty. They promised to use their united endeavours to effect these, and to send a report of the event to Banda.

One evening, when several small vessels were lying around our boats, a number of birds flew suddenly off the land, and settled, some in the boats, and some in the water around. They proved to be quails, bearing a perfect resemblance in every respect to those of Europe. I succeeded in carrying five of these to Banda, without supplying them with any other food than rice, where I had the satisfaction of presenting them to Surgeon-Major Lengacker.

Serra does not produce so much stock as the other islands. The natives often employ themselves in catching fish, which abound in the adjacent waters. Hooks and lines are chiefly used. The trepang and tortoise-shell obtained here is of a very superior quality, and is much sought for by the traders from Amboyna and Banda.

I continued busily employed with my official duties until the 3rd of June, when I left Serra, and commenced my return to the brig. Our journey was much delayed by unfavourable winds, and we were daily obliged to rest on the islands which lay in our course, the tender rowing very heavily, while it was impossible to use the sail. The native vessels that left with us were soon far a-head, as they rowed with great swiftness, and could pass over the banks with facility.

Shortly after our departure we put into Maktia, where we found the village to be in a state of utter decay. The houses were all in ruins, everything bearing evidence to the village having been long abandoned, while not a man could be seen around.

Every voyager in the eastern seas should be provided with plenty of fishing tackle, which will not only be of great service, but will also afford means of passing away time; for, I believe, that throughout the world no seas will be found that yield such innumerable quantities of all sorts of fish as these. With a single line sufficient fish may be caught in a few minutes to afford a dainty meal. The drag-net, which was used by the seamen whenever we landed on the islands, was also foundvery useful, this mode of fishing being as successful as the other. Turtle's eggs were so abundant, that the men with the assistance of the natives, often brought them on board by basket's full. These eggs are about the size of a billiard-ball, round, and covered with a white, chalky film in lieu of shell. The interior is similar to that of a hen's egg, to which they were preferred by many of our party. When boiled, the yolk becomes firm, but the white remains soft and watery, this being thrown aside when the egg is eaten. Six nests full of turtles' eggs were found by us upon a sandy island near Laboba. It is very difficult to discover the spots in which the eggs are deposited, and requires a practised eye: the natives are very skilful in this. When the turtle wishes to deposit her eggs, she goes on shore, on the sandy beach, and selects a spot amid the grass, where, with her hind feet, she makes a hole about a foot and a half deep, and having laid from eighty to a hundred eggs, covers them carefully up, and makes a fresh nest in some other spot. When the traces of the turtle are met with, they are followed up until a space is found where the traces are extinct, and here the nest will probablybe met with. A stick is thrust into the ground to find the position of the eggs, which is often a matter of difficulty, as the ground is generally turned up within a circumference of ten to fifteen paces. The young are brought forth without the assistance of the parent, after the eggs have lain under ground about three months, when the young ones crawl out of the sand and make towards the water, which they are often prevented from reaching by the birds of prey that lie in wait for them. The turtle are in the habit of assembling on the beach during moon-light nights, when they are taken with great facility. The natives usually let the female go again, and are also averse to striking them with a harpoon, being influenced by some superstitious feeling. They also requested that we would not disturb the hawk's-bill turtle,[52]which we found sleeping on the water, but willingly caught the others for us themselves.

On one of the islands at which we stopped, a large hawk's-bill turtle was found dead in the forest. The shell was two feet and a quarter indiameter, and yielded a head[53]weighing a pound and a half.

On one of the dry sand-banks we met with a quantity of sea-mews' eggs, deposited in nests on the shelly sand, very close to one another, each containing only two eggs. Numbers of the birds hovered about the bank, their presence having first attracted our attention to the spot.

While we were at anchor under the coast of Timor-Laut one night, we heard the lowing of a number of wild cattle, and in the morning saw the traces of them along the sandy beach. The wild cattle, with which the island abounds, are black, and have upright horns, their size being about the same as that of two-year-old cattle in Holland. The natives catch them with nooses of rattan, and also shoot them with arrows. Wild hogs are also to be met with in abundance. Monkeys do not exist on the island, and it is a singular thing that throughout the Moluccan Archipelago they are only to be found on the island of Batchian, near the south end of Gilolo.

Showers of rain, and strong unfavourable winds, rendered our return voyage tedious and disagreeable, and we did not reach Larrat until the 9th of June. On our arrival we hauled up the tender and the boat on the beach, to clean their bottoms, which had become very necessary. I continued here until the 11th, busily employed with my official duties, when I returned to the brig, accompanied by several of the chiefs.

I had given permission to one of my interpreters to take on board a quantity of tortoise-shell and trepang, to purchase which he had brought from Banda a quantity of goods suited to the taste of the natives. I had thus an opportunity of witnessing closely the manner in which the trade is conducted. He purchased a picul (133lbs. avoirdupoise) of trepang, for goods of the value of twenty-two guilders (£1. 17s.) These consisted of two Javanese dresses, two pieces of lining chintz, two redkarwasses, two parangs or chopping-knives, two bush-knives, two plates, two combs, two handkerchiefs for the head, and two catties (two pounds and a half) of copper wire. According to an old custom, the articles they receive for their produce must always be in pairs, except they consist of valuables,such as gold, elephants' tusks, &c., which are valued and paid for accordingly.

The natives of the Tenimber Islands are extremely anxious to obtain gold coin, especially ducats, and give their trepang and tortoise-shell more readily in exchange for these than anything else. Both this and silver coin they work up into clumsy ear-rings, bracelets, and other ornaments, losing a considerable quantity of the metal in melting it down. It is extremely difficult to obtain these ornaments from them.

I continued constantly employed among the islands, especially at Vordate, until the 15th of June, when we sailed for Banda, carrying with us favourable winds and weather. We passed, during our voyage, near to Bird Island, an uninhabited spot, on which considerable quantities of sulphur are collected, and carried to Bali and other places, where it is employed in the manufacture of native gunpowder.

At Banda I put my interpreters on shore, and continued my voyage to Amboyna, where I arrived on the 26th of June, much rejoiced at the successful result of the expedition, of which I had soon a satisfactory proof, in a Government Resolution of the following import:—

"Extract from the Register of Transactions and Resolutions of the Governor of the Moluccas."Friday, July 14, 1826."A communication from the Naval Captain, Commandant of Division, was read (d. d. N. 104), containing the account of the voyage lately performed by H.M. brigDourga, under the command of Lieut. Kolff, of the First Class, in the Banda Sea, and to the coast of New Guinea, according to the instructions given him by a Resolution of the 24th March (1.1. No. 1). It appearing from the narrative, that the above-named officer has fulfilled those instructions to as great an extent as lay in his power, and has spared no pains to acquire the information he was requested to collect, or to effect the duties with the execution of which he was charged:—"Approved of and understood—"That M. Kolff, Lieutenant in the Navy of the First Class, receives the thanks of the Government for the laudable manner in which he has executed the commission entrusted to him; and that a report of this, and of the above voyage itself, be sent to His Excellency the Governor-General."An extract of this to be forwarded to Lieut. Kolff for his information and direction."Copy from the above-named Register."Signed (W.G.)Paape,"Secretary."

"Extract from the Register of Transactions and Resolutions of the Governor of the Moluccas.

"Friday, July 14, 1826.

"A communication from the Naval Captain, Commandant of Division, was read (d. d. N. 104), containing the account of the voyage lately performed by H.M. brigDourga, under the command of Lieut. Kolff, of the First Class, in the Banda Sea, and to the coast of New Guinea, according to the instructions given him by a Resolution of the 24th March (1.1. No. 1). It appearing from the narrative, that the above-named officer has fulfilled those instructions to as great an extent as lay in his power, and has spared no pains to acquire the information he was requested to collect, or to effect the duties with the execution of which he was charged:—

"Approved of and understood—

"That M. Kolff, Lieutenant in the Navy of the First Class, receives the thanks of the Government for the laudable manner in which he has executed the commission entrusted to him; and that a report of this, and of the above voyage itself, be sent to His Excellency the Governor-General.

"An extract of this to be forwarded to Lieut. Kolff for his information and direction.

"Copy from the above-named Register."Signed (W.G.)Paape,"Secretary."

And now, kind and honoured Reader, the task which I promised to undertake for you is fulfilled, and may the artless narrative of a seaman, containing not unimportant contributions to a knowledge of countries seldom visited or described, be acceptable to you. The countries visited by me are, as Dutch possessions, of the highest importance to every Netherlander, while, at the same time, the simple description of the habits and disposition of their inhabitants may afford matter for speculation. If, by the composition of this narrative, I have rendered myself serviceable to the reading world, or contributed to afford entertainment, then shall I be most amply repaid for the time employed in its compilation.—Farewell!

FOOTNOTES:[51]A tope is a native-decked vessel, with three masts, and sails resembling lugs. Some are of considerable size, but the present one measured only twenty tons.[52]It is from these that the shell, so much prized for combs and fancy articles, is obtained.—Translator.[53]The thirteen pieces, which form the shell of the turtle, are called collectively a "head of tortoise-shell."

[51]A tope is a native-decked vessel, with three masts, and sails resembling lugs. Some are of considerable size, but the present one measured only twenty tons.

[52]It is from these that the shell, so much prized for combs and fancy articles, is obtained.—Translator.

[53]The thirteen pieces, which form the shell of the turtle, are called collectively a "head of tortoise-shell."

THE END.

Back to Index Next