CHAPTER II.Arrive at Singapore, and sail for China—The Lemma Islands—Their inhabitants—Boats—Hong Kong Island—Dr. Abel’s visit to the shore—A pilot’s surprise—Cap, sing, Moon—Cum, sing, Moon—Outlaw ships—Trade in opium—Researches about the hills—Botanical productions—Macao—Its streets—Vain endeavours to open a trade with the Chinese ports—The Rev. C. Gutzlaff—Harbour of Macao—Jealousy of the Chinese government—Fruit—Wang, hee canes—The Casa garden—Cave of Camoens—Tributary verses to that poet.
Arrive at Singapore, and sail for China—The Lemma Islands—Their inhabitants—Boats—Hong Kong Island—Dr. Abel’s visit to the shore—A pilot’s surprise—Cap, sing, Moon—Cum, sing, Moon—Outlaw ships—Trade in opium—Researches about the hills—Botanical productions—Macao—Its streets—Vain endeavours to open a trade with the Chinese ports—The Rev. C. Gutzlaff—Harbour of Macao—Jealousy of the Chinese government—Fruit—Wang, hee canes—The Casa garden—Cave of Camoens—Tributary verses to that poet.
After a long passage down the Straits of Malacca, we arrived at Singapore on the 19th of August, and sailed again on the 22d for China.
At daylight, on the 6th of September, we were off the “Lemma Islands,” having previously arrived in soundings on the 4th, and were frequently visited by Comprador boats seeking for employment. We took a pilot from one of them to direct us to “Cap, sing, Moon.” The LemmaIslands, like most of those about this part of the China coast, are bold, rugged, and but very scantily covered by vegetation; its geological structure is principally coarse granite, approaching to sienite, and quartz, which enters largely into their composition.[8]The inhabitants of these islands appear to be principally fishermen, and their boats animated the waters around to some distance, in great numbers: some were of very large size, being probably of sixty or seventy tons burden, and are inhabited by whole families; the clatter of women, squalling of children, and barking of dogs, could be heard in concert, when in beating to windward we came near any of them.
These slenderly constructed but admirable boats, with their large mat sails, some having one, two, or three masts, sail with rapidity: they would often lower a small awkward punt, and bring some fish on board for sale. The women worked hard, and one would be often seen with an infant at her back, with others running after, seeking her protection, whilst she assisted in the various occupations of the ship, in tacking and hauling the ropes. They all had a dark, wretched appearance, from the exposure to weather and hardships of many descriptions. Whenthe weather is stormy, the vessels bring up under lee of one of the numerous islands, grouped about the coast. I have often seen them assembled, from twenty to fifty, for the night, under the lee of one of them, on the shore close to which, some small miserable thatched huts, containing numbers of wretched inmates, and small patches of cultivated land were visible.
On the 10th we were off Hong Kong Island. It is lofty, bold, and occasionally its barren appearance is diversified by the verdure of the ferns and other plants, which give some beauty to the huge piles of rocks, towering towards the heavens, in gently sloping as well as abrupt declivities. At one part a small cascade fell from the rocks above into the ocean abyss beneath, and other places bore the appearance of mountain torrents being formed during heavy rains.
Dr. Abel, who landed upon it, says, “I took advantage of the first watering boat to visit the shore, and made one of these mountains and the waterfall the principal objects of my visit. This mountain, the highest on the island, is, according to Captain Ross, who has measured it, about fifteen hundred feet above the level of the sea, and is composed of trap approaching to basalt in the compactness of its structure. In ascending it, I followed the course of a delightful stream,which rises near its summit, and found by its side a number of interesting plants. The general surface of the mountain, and indeed of every part of the island of Hong Kong, that I was able to visit, is remarkably barren, although in the distance it appears fertile, from a fern which I believe to be the Polypodium trichotomum of Kœmpfer, which supplies the place of other plants. I ascended about one thousand feet, and returned by a path which passed over a small hill, or rather mound, differing in structure from all the rocks in its neighbourhood, being composed of a very friable stone of a reddish white colour, much resembling disintegrated feltspar. On reaching the shore, I examined the rocks by the waterfall, where they are exposed in large surfaces, and found them composed of basaltic trap, exhibiting in some places a distinct stratification, in others a confused columnar arrangement. It is also divided into distinct, well-defined, rhomboidal masses, separated from each other by very obvious seams, in which I frequently found cubic crystals of iron pyrites.”[9]
The further progress of the ship was extremely tardy, from calms and adverse winds, so that we did not reach the Cap, sing, moonharbour, until the morning of the 12th, and then, from calms, could not enter it, but anchored outside. The Chinese pilot on board was but of little service, and he was quite surprised at the commander’s knowledge of the islands, depth of water, &c., until he found out that he derived it from the charts and Horsburgh’s Directory. It was quite amusing, when any difference of opinion existed between them, to hear the pilot, in a pet, declare, “You look at bookee, but you not alway savez a rightee; bookee wrong, you wrongee sometime.”
A greater or lesser number of different species ofLibellulahave been flying about the ship, ever since we have been in soundings; and it is said, that when a great number of these insects are seen flying about the ship, a northerly wind may be expected; but I seldom found the assertion borne out by the fact, except its happening four or five days after can be considered a corroboration.
On the following day we entered the “Cap, sing, moon,” for a short time: it is regarded as a safe and is certainly a picturesque harbour, but lately it has been left by many of the opium ships for another, by some considered a safer harbour, and called the “Cum, sing, moon,” formed by different islands, and the main landto the northward of Macao, and distant about eighteen miles from that settlement. The “Cap, sing, moon,” has some towering verdant mountains, with fertile valleys, and little thatched cottages of fishermen and others, peering through a thicket of foliage. This is contrasted at another part by barren hills, destitute of any beauty, excepting what may be scantily imparted by a few stunted shrubs or ferns.
Well may this be called a celestial empire, wherein moons and stars condescend to take up their local habitation. It is ludicrous to hear the inhabitants talking of having intercourse with the celestial people in the different moons, “Where did you come from last?” “I came from the other moon,” was a very common question and answer.
On the 14th of September we sailed over to the “Cum, sing, moon,”[10]and anchored at six o’clock,P.M.; this possessed far more extensive and picturesque beauties than the harbour wehad left.[11]The entrance is, however, difficult, and even dangerous for strangers; yet, after having been once, the same person could easily take a ship in or out at any time without risk, taking advantage of the tides. From the land around this place not being so elevated as in the rival harbour, the gusts that descend from the gullies in stormy weather are not so violent, and a ship is consequently not so liable to drive as has been experienced during some severe typhoons, which occurred a short time previous to our arrival.
Many of thoseoutlaw shipsthat trade in opium, (one of the most important, although prohibited, branches of commerce in the Chinese empire,) remain either in this harbour, or that of the “Cap, sing, moon,” during the season of the year that typhoons are expected, and anchor off the island of Lintin during the fine-weather months. One part of this trade in opium is carried on by the Chinese smuggling boats, which take it from the European receiving ships stationed here, or more properly speaking at “Lintin,” (this being merely a temporary place of refuge from typhoons).
By occasionally visiting the Hercules, one of the receiving ships for opium, I was able to observe, through the kindness of Mr. Parry, her chief officer, how this extensive and lucrative trade is conducted. The sales are effected in Canton by the European merchants, and orders sent down with the smuggling boats for the delivery of the opium from the different ships; the boats engaged in this occupation are armed with spears, shields, and even fire-arms, to repel any attack that may be made upon them by the mandarin guard-boats. They are also manned by a very brave and athletic crew; indeed Chinese fight very well one against the other, but cannot bring forward sufficient courage to face Europeans, except the advantages are overpowering on their side. These boats are provided with sails, in addition to a number of oars and rowers, and they pass through the water with inconceivable rapidity. The mandarin boats, having a weaker and less choice crew, can seldom or ever overtake them; this, however, may in part be explained from the fact of the guard-boats, (the revenue cutters,) sent by the Chinese government to cruize against smugglers, coming alongside for a supply of the prohibited drug, to smuggle it themselves into the heart of the Chinese empire. Any thing can bedone by bribery in this country, and these boats are often employed for smuggling cassia, treasure, &c. on board European ships at Lintin, &c.; indeed every smuggling boat that takes opium from an opium ship, leaves a payment of one dollar on each chest for the mandarins, and on the opium returns being made up, the sum is regularly paid to them; each boat leaves also a kum, shaw, or present for the ship, of five dollars.
The chests of the drug are opened on board; the balls or cakes are taken out, and immediately deposited in small mat bags, brought by them for the purpose, and sown up; being in that way more convenient to smuggle than in large heavy chests. There are three kinds of opium usually sold in the English ships—the Malwa, Benares, and Patna; a fourth, the Turkey opium, is confined to American and other foreign vessels. The Patna opium is in balls, packed in partitioned cases, each chest containing forty balls. Old opium fetches a higher price than new; the former being solid, the latter soft and more liable to run. The old chests, so termed, are usually two years old when they come under that denomination. The Malwa opium is in rather flattened cakes. The prices of this drug of course fluctuate very much: the consumption in the Chinese Empire must be enormous, andis entirely—not the least extraordinary part of the affair—carried on by an illicit trade.[12]
The payments are usually made, if to any extent, in Sycee silver, which is taken by weight, no silver coinage being acknowledged by the Chinese government. The Chinese purchasers of the opium refine it by boiling, previous to using it for smoking: the mandarins, besides smoking, use it also in the form of tincture, usually carrying a small bottle containing it about them. The present Emperor of China has been described as being totally incapacitated from any business, through the excess to which he has carried the debilitating practice of opium smoking.
I took several opportunities of makingherborisationsabout the hills in this harbour; andin so doing, fortunately, did not meet with any molestation from the inhabitants. On landing, usually upon a sandy beach, or rocks of granite, shell-fish, and other marine animals, were very scarce. The hills were covered, about the declivities, with a large quantity of shrubs and plants, and a variety of grasses: the summits were usually barren, and covered with sand. Two or three species ofMelastomawere very abundant; and one species, thequinquenervia, was in full flower, being beautifully covered with a profusion of large rose-coloured blossoms, forming a contrast, by their brilliancy, to the dull, uninteresting character of the vegetation around.
Several of the fern tribe were also abundant, either by the borders of the rivulets, or strewed over the declivities and summits of the hills. Among them was theGleichenia hermanni,Bluchnum,Polypodium, &c.; as well as aFicus, bearing small red fruit, and other shrubs. In the valleys, or any little irrigated spots, the cultivation of rice was particularly attended to. The fruit of theMelastoma(for several of the shrubs were in fructification) yielded a dark bluish juice, on which several coleopterous insects fed. Two water snakes were caught upon the beach; one of a bright yellow over the head and neck, and of slender form. Among other botanicalspecimens collected was aRhus,Flemingia,Rosa,Malva,Cereopsis, &c.
On the 1st of October I visited Macao. This ancient colony of the Portuguese, in China, has a very picturesque and romantic aspect on approaching it from the sea: it is situated upon a peninsula, and, from bearing some resemblance to a mallet, has received the name Macao, which in the Portuguese language signifies that instrument. The white houses, rising one above the other; the high mountains in the back-ground, and about it; the castle, and monasteries, perched on the elevated summits of some of the hills; the numerous sacred edifices, elevating themselves above the neighbouring houses, the most conspicuous objects in all Roman Catholic countries,—all contribute to the beauty of this little city: it seemed, both from the roadstead and on landing, a Portuguese town, to which the taste and wealth of our native land had been added, not the least cause of its neatness or beauty: it contains also very agreeable society, both for residents and strangers.
The streets of Macao are very narrow: this, however, affords shelter to the pedestrian from the fervent rays of the sun; they are likewise ill-paved and very steep, the houses rising from thePraya Grandeon one side, and the innerharbour on the other, terrace upon terrace, and are constructed upon a very solid foundation of rock: the pavement consists of smooth and rough stones, without any attention having been given to their relative sizes; so that a person taking a short walk, may often expect to return with a strained ancle.
The private residences of the Europeans are very convenient, spacious, and more delightful for their interior accommodation, than for any exterior beauty.
Many vessels have been sent to the east coast of China, by enterprising merchants of Canton, to endeavour, if possible, to open a trade with some of the Chinese ports on that coast. A highly-talented gentleman, the Rev. C. Gutzlaff, with whom I had the gratification of forming an acquaintance, has often accompanied the vessels; but the result has been a very limited degree of success; the imbecility of the Chinese government has been fully ascertained; and during the last voyage, edicts were stuck about the village off which the vessel had anchored, stating that the foreign vessel had been driven away, while she still remained at anchor within sight of these very papers, endeavouring to carry on some traffic with the inhabitants; but, from the fear of the mandarins, it was effected but to avery limited extent. It is stated that the embassy of Lord Amherst is still mentioned by the Chinese, who say that it was fully expected, from the force he had with him, he would not have suffered himself to be driven away, but would have obliged the Chinese government to accede to any terms he chose to propose.
The gentleman I have before mentioned, the Rev. C. Gutzlaff, is well acquainted with several dialects of the Chinese language, which he speaks with such fluency, as to be, when disguised, taken for a Chinese: he studies mankind, and endeavours to spread the Christian religion in a truly missionary spirit, so as to conduce (which a pure religion necessarily must do) to the happiness of the people: he also endeavours to effect his benevolent purpose towards them, by distributing tracts relating to the sciences of astronomy, geography, &c. written in the Chinese language; endeavouring, by an admirable religious feeling of benevolence, to promote the welfare of the people by spreading a purer religion than they possess; at the same time cultivating their minds in other branches of knowledge, enabling them to receive more vividly the impressions of the divine Spirit. Would that all our missionaries followed the same plan! how inestimable, then, should I consider their cause!
The inner harbour of Macao is spacious, and capable of affording anchorage to a large number of ships, safely sheltered from every gale; but only twenty-five European vessels are permitted to anchor, and those only which belong to the Spanish or Portuguese nations; excepting in case of distress, when a ship of any other European power may require immediate repairs; but even then there is much trouble and difficulty in procuring the requisite permission: this proceeds from the usual jealousy of the Chinese government towards Europeans. Nearly two centuries ago, or perhaps more, permission was granted by the Chinese authorities for twenty-five foreign vessels of the Portuguese and Spanish nations to enter the harbour; and these are always regarded by this extraordinarily blinded people to be the very identical vessels which had at that time received the original indulgence from the imperial government.[13]
Fruit is neither particularly abundant nor excellent in this part of China; the great variety of oranges may be regarded the best, as also the elegant scarlet Lit, chi (Dimocarpus litchi). There is another fruit, of which also there are several varieties—it is aDiospyrus,—(theDiospyrusKaki?[14]) or Chinese date plum. One of the varieties known by the Chinese under the name of Ngnow, sum, tzee, or bull’s heart Diospyrus—(Ngnow signifying bull; sum, heart; tzee, this particular fruit, the Diospyrus)—resembles, in external appearance, a Tomata, except in being of a larger size, and of a bright red colour: when divided, it is found to contain a yellowish semi-transparent pulp, not unlike a plum either in flavour or appearance, and contains several oblong brownish seeds. The outer skin has an astringent property, which discolours the steel of a knife when employed to divide the fruit, which is not at all requisite for the purpose. The other kind is much smaller, oval, about the size of a date; being similar to the former in colour; it is called by the Chinese Kai, sum, tzee, or fowl’s heart Diospyrus: in taste it closely resembles the mawkish sweetness of a ripe date. I had only an opportunity of seeing two of the varieties of this fruit, but there are several other kinds.[15]The flat peach, or “Peento” (peen signifying flat, and to, peach) of the Chinese, is a variety of the peach, appearing, although in reality of a perfectly natural form, to have had its flatness produced by artificial means. The blossoms of the tree are double, but fertile. The fruit is described as being of an excellent flavour.
The canes, so much valued, and sold usually at a high price, and known by the name of theWang, hee, (Wang signifying yellow, and hee, root,) are said to be the root of the narrow-leaved bamboo, which grows abundantly about Macao, forming very pretty hedges or inclosures: these are valuable and rare, on account of the sufficiently straight descending roots being difficult to procure; many trees must consequently be destroyed before those particular roots of the requisite length and straightness can be obtained. The roots of this bamboo are very troublesome when planted, more especially in a garden, from spreading so far, and so much towards the surface of the ground, as to tear up the paths, &c.
I visited, in company with Mr. Fearon, the Casa garden, in which is situated the principal object of my visit—“Camoens’ Cave;” celebrated as the spot where that distinguished poet wrote the poem of the Lusiad. It is notcorrect to call it acave—it is merely masses of granite rocks piled one over the other in that extraordinary and romantic manner in which that kind of rock is so often seen grouped; and this forms a kind of archway, which has been denominated a cave. Delightfully surrounded by umbrageous trees, and shrubs overhanging the rocks, the seclusion of the spot might well have been chosen by one inclined to meditate and compose; where all the objects around him would not fail to excite the poetical imagination to a much higher degree than could possibly be effected in the hurry and bustle of society. A summer-house has been erected upon these granite masses.
Some beautiful Latin verses (which I hope to see engraved and placed on the spot) have been written by J. Davies, Esq., who having kindly favoured me with a copy, I with pleasure insert them.
In cavernam, ubi Camoens ferturcarmen egregium composuisse.Hic, in remotis sol ubi rupibusFrondes per altas molliùs incidit,Fervebat in pulchram camænamIngenium Camöentis ardens:Signum et Poëtæ marmore lucidoSpirabat olim, carminibus sacrum,Parvumque, quod vivens amavit,Effigie decorabat antrum:Sed jam vetustas, aut manus impiaProstravit, Eheu!—Triste SilentiumRegnare nunc solum videturPer scopulos, virides et umbras!At fama nobis restat, at inclytumRestat Poëtæ nomen, at ingenîStat carmen exemplum perenneÆrea nec monumenta quærit!Sic usque virtus vincit, ad ultimosPerducta fines temporis, exitusSpernens sepulchrorumque inane,Marmoris ac celerem ruinam!
In cavernam, ubi Camoens ferturcarmen egregium composuisse.Hic, in remotis sol ubi rupibusFrondes per altas molliùs incidit,Fervebat in pulchram camænamIngenium Camöentis ardens:Signum et Poëtæ marmore lucidoSpirabat olim, carminibus sacrum,Parvumque, quod vivens amavit,Effigie decorabat antrum:Sed jam vetustas, aut manus impiaProstravit, Eheu!—Triste SilentiumRegnare nunc solum videturPer scopulos, virides et umbras!At fama nobis restat, at inclytumRestat Poëtæ nomen, at ingenîStat carmen exemplum perenneÆrea nec monumenta quærit!Sic usque virtus vincit, ad ultimosPerducta fines temporis, exitusSpernens sepulchrorumque inane,Marmoris ac celerem ruinam!
In cavernam, ubi Camoens ferturcarmen egregium composuisse.
In cavernam, ubi Camoens ferturcarmen egregium composuisse.
Hic, in remotis sol ubi rupibusFrondes per altas molliùs incidit,Fervebat in pulchram camænamIngenium Camöentis ardens:
Hic, in remotis sol ubi rupibus
Frondes per altas molliùs incidit,
Fervebat in pulchram camænam
Ingenium Camöentis ardens:
Signum et Poëtæ marmore lucidoSpirabat olim, carminibus sacrum,Parvumque, quod vivens amavit,Effigie decorabat antrum:
Signum et Poëtæ marmore lucido
Spirabat olim, carminibus sacrum,
Parvumque, quod vivens amavit,
Effigie decorabat antrum:
Sed jam vetustas, aut manus impiaProstravit, Eheu!—Triste SilentiumRegnare nunc solum videturPer scopulos, virides et umbras!
Sed jam vetustas, aut manus impia
Prostravit, Eheu!—Triste Silentium
Regnare nunc solum videtur
Per scopulos, virides et umbras!
At fama nobis restat, at inclytumRestat Poëtæ nomen, at ingenîStat carmen exemplum perenneÆrea nec monumenta quærit!
At fama nobis restat, at inclytum
Restat Poëtæ nomen, at ingenî
Stat carmen exemplum perenne
Ærea nec monumenta quærit!
Sic usque virtus vincit, ad ultimosPerducta fines temporis, exitusSpernens sepulchrorumque inane,Marmoris ac celerem ruinam!
Sic usque virtus vincit, ad ultimos
Perducta fines temporis, exitus
Spernens sepulchrorumque inane,
Marmoris ac celerem ruinam!
The Casa gardens, in which thecaveis situated, are extensive, and have even now, in their neglected state, sufficient beauty to be regarded as the most retired, romantic, and beautiful spot in Macao.