TT his day was to be given to seeing the mosques in Cairo. We set off early, and went first to see the mosque of Sultan Hassan. This is thought to be one of the most beautiful specimens of Arabian architecture in Cairo.It was built in the fourteenth century, and the blocks of stone for it were brought from the Great Pyramid, of which these were the casing-stones. Inside, the mosque was beautiful. Rows of coloured glass lamps hung from the walls; some were especial curiosities, for they were the finest early glass-work of their kind. The arches also are fine, and so are some of the ornaments of the roof.
T his day was to be given to seeing the mosques in Cairo. We set off early, and went first to see the mosque of Sultan Hassan. This is thought to be one of the most beautiful specimens of Arabian architecture in Cairo.It was built in the fourteenth century, and the blocks of stone for it were brought from the Great Pyramid, of which these were the casing-stones. Inside, the mosque was beautiful. Rows of coloured glass lamps hung from the walls; some were especial curiosities, for they were the finest early glass-work of their kind. The arches also are fine, and so are some of the ornaments of the roof.
One sight was pointed out which made us shudder. This was the dark stain of Sultan Hassan's blood on the pavement. He was murdered in the mosque by his Mamelukes. His tomb is just in the middle of the inner inclosure. On it we saw a copy of the Mohammedan holy book, the Koran. It was splendidly illuminated in gold and colours. The sultan's tomb was once covered with a rich embroidered covering, but this was faded and moth-eaten when we saw it. The marble pavement, too, was broken in many places.
The mosque of Sultan Hassan has always been famed for its beauty. It is said that the sultan cut off the head of the architect, that he might never build another as beautiful.
From the mosque of Sultan Hassan we went to the mosque of Sultan Tuloon. It was built about the year 879 after the birth of our Lord, and is said to be the oldest mosque in Cairo. It has double rows of handsome pointed arches. There is a fine view from the chief minaret. Our guide told us that it even excels that from the citadel. But the staircase is spiral, is outside, and in rather a ruinous state.
MOSQUE.
On reaching the second gallery, some of us became faint-hearted and stayed to rest. Even from it the view was a grand one; but those who went to the top said that we had really seen nothing in comparison.
Lucy was tired and giddy when we came down, so some of us went home with her while the rest went to see the mosque of El Ghoree.
"It is beautifully painted," said Hugh, when giving us an account of it afterwards. "And inside there are pillars of marble and mother-of-pearl."
"Those are in the niche for prayer," his father said. "The windows and walls of the mosque, and the roof, are ornamented with stone carved like lace-work. But I think, Hugh, that what I admire most are the horseshoe arches, and the four grand columns which look as if they had belonged to some ancient temple."
"What did the man call that niche for prayer?" Hugh asked.
"The Mahrab. In every mosque the Mahrab looks in the direction of Mecca, where Mohammed was born; and which is therefore to the Mohammedans the most sacred of cities."
"Do they pray towards Mecca, then, just as Daniel prayed towards Jerusalem?"
"Yes, they do. When we were looking at the Mahrab, I, like you now, thought of Daniel, and wished for the day when the knowledge of the gospel shall have spread over the earth, and when all places for prayer shall be used for the service of the only true God, and Jesus Christ whom he has sent."
"I should like to make one little Egyptian girl a Christian," said Lucy; "would not you, Hugh?"
"But how could we, Lucy?"
"Oh! we could talk to her, and teach her our hymns, and tell her about our Bible pictures."
"Only," Hugh answered, thoughtfully, "she would not understand what we said, and we should not understand her."
"I forgot that. Mamma, may we learn Egyptian?"
"That would take a long time, and I think you can do something better than that. There is a mission already at Cairo, where the children are taught by persons who understand the language."
"May we see it?"
"Yes, and you can give some of your money and time in buying and making clothes for those who are very poor. And something else you can do."
"What is that? Can I do it?" asked Hugh, "for I cannot hem and sew the clothes."
"Yes, we can all do it. We can pray every day for the Egyptian children, that God will give them hearts to serve him, and to love our precious Saviour Jesus Christ, who came to save little children as well as grown-up people."
It was a happy thought that we could all begin that very night to do something for the Egyptian children. Hugh and Lucy said so, and we all felt it.
TT he next morning we set off for Heliopolis.Heliopolis, or the "City of the Sun," is the same which is called "On" in the Bible. Joseph's wife came from On, where her father was a man of wealth and importance.The ride from Cairo to Heliopolis is delightful. We went across the edge of the desert, and on our way were struck by a solitary dome marking a tomb. This is the tomb of Saladin's brother, Malek Adhel, to whom Richard Cœur de Lion wished to marry his sister Matilda.
T he next morning we set off for Heliopolis.Heliopolis, or the "City of the Sun," is the same which is called "On" in the Bible. Joseph's wife came from On, where her father was a man of wealth and importance.The ride from Cairo to Heliopolis is delightful. We went across the edge of the desert, and on our way were struck by a solitary dome marking a tomb. This is the tomb of Saladin's brother, Malek Adhel, to whom Richard Cœur de Lion wished to marry his sister Matilda.
Beyond this our road lay through green fields and shady avenues of acacias. The air was filled with a delicious perfume and with the humming of the wild bees. We saw Arabs, with bare legs and turbaned heads, tilling the ground, oxen treading out the corn, long strings of camels and asses bringing home provender.
It was, indeed, a living Bible picture.
ARAB SITTING IN FRONT OF HIS TENT.
The land of Goshen was opening before us. We were looking at the same scenes among which Joseph and his brethren had moved. The strings of asses laden with corn were like the strings of asses which Joseph's brethren had taken back laden to their dear father in Canaan.
It was a solemn feeling to be treading the very ground, and looking at the very fields over which the patriarchs once trod.
A village called Matarieh stands near where the city of Heliopolis once stood. Here a sycamore was shown to us under which Joseph and the Virgin Mary and Infant Saviour are said to have rested when they fled into Egypt from King Herod. The gardens of Matarieh were in former times famed for their balsams. They were first brought from Judea, and were of the same species as trees from which was made the "Balm of Gilead" that we read of in the Bible.
Heliopolis, the "City of the Sun," was so called because in ancient times there was a magnificent temple in it which was dedicated to the sun. Besides the temple of the sun, there was in Heliopolis another temple, dedicated to the bull Mnevis.
Cambyses, a king of Persia, took the city about five hundred years before the birth of our Lord. He burnt the temples and destroyed the palaces. Some of the obelisks escaped, and were afterwards taken to Rome and Alexandria. One is still left. It is about sixty-five feet high.
Part of a Sphinx was found near it some time ago, so that it is supposed that an avenue of Sphinxes led up to it, and that it is one of two obelisks which probably stood at the entrance of the Temple of the Sun. Wild bees had made their nests on the top of the obelisk, and came down upon us in swarms, as is their wont to travellers. Lucy was frightened; and though Hugh tried to look very brave, he did not feel quite at ease any more than myself. However, we came to no harm, though they buzzed all about us. The obelisk stands in a garden of rosemary and other herbs, which perhaps attracted the bees to it as their home.
In vain we wandered hither and thither, searching for some other traces of the bygone glories of this City of the Sun. Here it was that Joseph once lived. Here it was that Moses was made "learned in the wisdom of the Egyptians." Here the wise and learned men of Egypt used to assemble. Here was once heard "joy and the voice of melody." Where is it now? All is silent, still. This solitary pillar alone stands to mark the scene of long-forgotten pomp and glory.
Thus do earthly cities vanish. But the heavenly city which our Saviour has prepared for them that love him, will endure for evermore. Its glories are far brighter than ever were those of this City of the Sun, and are unfading; be it ours to have a part in that new and blessed city!
The next morning we met some travellers who had been to a Copt wedding, of which the lady gave us an account.
"The family was a rich one," she said, "and everything was most splendid. The inner court of the house was beautifully lighted, and was crowded with guests. In the middle were the musicians, with all sorts of instruments: Arab flutes, dulcimers, fiddles; the noise was deafening.
"The master of the house took us to an up-stairs room in which were the guests of higher rank. These were all men. Though the Copts are not Mohammedans, it seems the custom for their women to live in as great retirement as the Mohammedan women do, and also for them to cover their faces when they go out of doors.
"We were taken into a large room covered with rich carpets, and lighted by a number of wax candles and a large chandelier. We were led to a large divan, where pipes, coffee, sweetmeats, and sherbet were handed to us, whilst we listened to the songs of the singing women.
"These singing women are called 'Almé.' They attend the weddings of all the rich people in Cairo, and are paid by contributions from the guests. Generally they make a good sum at a wedding, especially those who are clever enough to invent songs at the moment.
"We stayed in this room for a long time, and then I was taken to that part of the house where the ladies of the family live. At the entrance some negress slaves were waiting to receive me and lead me to the room in which the lady of the house awaited me. She was mounted on a complete throne of cushions, and some eighty or ninety guests, all ladies, were with her. They were dressed in every variety of colour, and their dresses were all embroidered in gold. The young ladies wore pretty gauze veils, pink, white, or blue. These were all edged with needlework; some in gold, some in silver. The elder ladies wore gorgeous Cashmere shawls thrown over their heads and shoulders, and most of them wore diamond ornaments.
"I was conducted to the seat of honour by the side of the lady of the house, and a narghilé (a sort of pipe) was brought to me. Then a china saucer was filled with bonbons from a tray covered with all sorts of confectionery, and was handed to me with some rose sherbet.
"After this I was taken into another room to see the bride. She was a girl about twelve years old. She lay on a sofa, with her face muffled up in some kind of white stuff which was ornamented with diamonds, and was bound on by a band of diamonds. Her nurse was with her. The poor child was very tired, and more than half asleep. When the covering was removed that I might see her face, she moved uneasily, as if she did not like to be disturbed. She was dressed in satin, scarlet, and gold, and had a white cashmere shawl round her waist. She wore a number of splendid ornaments.
"It was nearly midnight when we came away. The cool night air was delicious after all the heat and glare of the house. It was a glorious night, the sky radiant with stars which sparkled more brightly than the little bride's diamonds."
VISIT TO THE HAREM.
It was now time for us to go to the mission schools, which we all very much wanted to see.
We went first to the girls' school, where we saw a number of children copying portions of Holy Scripture in Arabic. They wrote beautifully. Lucy took a great fancy to one little girl, and stood beside her, watching her, for a long time. The child stole a shy glance at her now and again; a kindly feeling sprang up between them, though they could not understand each other's language.
We were told that the language taught in the schools generally is Arabic, but that some of the children learn English. They are taught reading, writing, arithmetic, needlework, embroidery, and, in fact, everything that can be useful to them. They read the Bible, and many of them can say large portions of it by heart.
We next went to the ragged school. There we saw a number of little children, some of them not more than three years old. They are fed and clothed, and stay at school all day, only going home at night. They looked very happy.
Besides these schools, there is also a school for Coptic young men.
These schools were all founded by the Rev. Theophilus Lieder (a German clergyman, head of the mission in Egypt) and his wife. So great a work needed much self-denial, courage, energy, industry. But Mr. and Mrs. Lieder gave these willingly for love of Jesus Christ, and of the lambs of his flock. He has helped their work, for he always blesses the work which is done from love to him. Very few of us can do such a great work for Jesus Christ as Mr. and Mrs. Lieder have done. But we can all do something for him. And if we love him, he will help even our smallest work in his name. For he has said, "Whosoever shall give to drink unto one of these little ones a cup of cold water only in the name of a disciple, verily I say unto you, he shall in no wise lose his reward."
On our way home from the schools we rode round the principal bazaars, a never-failing pleasure to Hugh and Lucy.
FF ostat, or Old Cairo, was the next place of interest which we visited. The walls built round it by the Romans were of small squared stones, mixed with tiles, and were about nine feet high. There were two towers, each half a circle in shape, standing out from them, and two other large towers at the principal gate. The gateway was almost buried in sand: still, we could distinguish an eagle on one part of it.The only entrance it now has is a small gate, too narrow for a carriage to pass through. The streets are really only lanes, and the houses are high. In old times this city was called Egyptian Babylon."Is it the same as Babylon the Great?" Hugh asked."No. Babylon the Great stood on the River Euphrates, and was the capital of the Babylonian empire.""Can you tell me anything more about this Babylon in Egypt?"
F ostat, or Old Cairo, was the next place of interest which we visited. The walls built round it by the Romans were of small squared stones, mixed with tiles, and were about nine feet high. There were two towers, each half a circle in shape, standing out from them, and two other large towers at the principal gate. The gateway was almost buried in sand: still, we could distinguish an eagle on one part of it.The only entrance it now has is a small gate, too narrow for a carriage to pass through. The streets are really only lanes, and the houses are high. In old times this city was called Egyptian Babylon."Is it the same as Babylon the Great?" Hugh asked."No. Babylon the Great stood on the River Euphrates, and was the capital of the Babylonian empire.""Can you tell me anything more about this Babylon in Egypt?"
"Yes, a little. Sir Gardner Wilkinson mentions an early Christian record, sculptured on wood, of the time of Diocletian. It is in the west tower, and we will try and find it. Then the crusaders, under LouisIX.of France, besieged but did not take it. The Sieur de Joinville, who wrote the life of the king, has given an interesting account of the siege. He describes the terror caused in the army when the 'Greek fire' was thrown from the walls. In the middle ages it was a noted place, and a stuff called 'cloth of Baldeck' was manufactured here. It was made of silk and of gold and silver threads, and was ornamented with imitations of trees, flowers, and birds. It was worn and much prized by persons of high rank. HenryIII.was, I believe, the first English king who wore cloth of Baudekin or Baldeck, but it was worn in other countries of Europe before his time."
We went to the upper chamber over the west tower of the old gateway, and there saw the record described by Sir Gardner Wilkinson. The upper part with the Greek inscription; below it a symbol of the Deity, a globe supported by two winged angels; and on each side six figures, which Sir Gardner Wilkinson believes to be the twelve apostles. We were very much interested in this Christian record, and wished that we had had some knowledge of who these early Christians were who had left the traces of their assembly in this upper chamber.
OLD GATEWAY.
We next went to see the mosque of Amer. This mosque was built by the Saracen Amer on the spot on which he encamped with his army when he besieged the city and took it. He founded the city of Fostat, which became the capital of Mohammedan Egypt. Four hundred years afterwards the present city of Cairo was built by one of the caliphs. He made it the capital, and called it Masr-el-Kahira, or "the Victorious City." The city built by Amer was then called "Old Cairo."
We were not so much struck by the mosque of Amer as we had been by some other mosques. There are some fine pillars and arches, both pointed and circular. But its chief interest is its great age. There is an old tradition that whenever this mosque falls, the Mohammedan power will fall in Egypt.
From Old Cairo we crossed over to the Island of Roda, to see the Nilometer. It consists of a square well, in the middle of which is a pillar marked in degrees, for measuring the rise of the Nile. There was once a tower over it. At the time when the Nile is rising, the criers come into Cairo every morning to proclaim the height to which it has risen since the previous morning. This overflow of the Nile irrigates the country for a long distance from its banks, and makes them very fruitful.
From the Nilometer we went to see the gardens belonging to Ibrahim Pacha; then to the spot where Moses is said to have been found by Pharaoh's daughter. We could picture the cradle of bulrushes floating on the still waters; the royal princess coming down with maidens to bathe, the anxious Miriam watching with eager eyes to see what would be the fate of her baby-brother. Hugh and Lucy both said that it made the Bible seem much more real to them, now that they were in the very land where so many of God's wonders of old were wrought. We all felt it so, as we looked at the spot where Moses was preserved in his babyhood, while floating in his cradle in the very waters which afterwards at his word, by God's command, were turned into blood.
Our next expedition was to the tombs of the Mameluke kings. We rode through a not very interesting part of Cairo to the "Bab-el-Nasr," or "Gate of Victory."
The tombs stand at a short distance from Cairo, on the edge of the desert. Each has its mosque, with dome and minarets. In one, called El Kait Bey, there is the print of a man's foot on the marble slab. This is said to be the footprint of "the Prophet" Mohammed. It is within a covered enclosure which is open at the sides. The Arabs show their respect for it by touching it reverently with their hands, which they kiss afterwards.
THE FINDING OF MOSES.
Another beautiful tomb is El Berbook. It has been faced with red and white stones, many of which are still left. There is an open corridor on the first floor. The entrance-hall leads into the large court of the mosque, in which there once was a fountain. It has long ceased to play, and the ornaments are all in ruin. The dome was richly ornamented. The door to it was locked, and we could only peep through some holes at the beauties within.
We next went to the tomb and mosque of Ahd Bey. The pavements, the windows, the grand arch, the ornamentation, all were beautiful. And the thought that the great Mameluke sultans, in whose honour these were wrought, made us silent. These palaces were not for the living, but for the dead. Even Hugh and Lucy grew grave. It was such a solemn thought that we were walking among earthly palaces, dedicated to those to whom earthly glory has for centuries been less than nothing! Here they sleep, silent owners of their silent city in the desert, till the last great trumpet shall sound, and the mighty dead shall (with their humbler fellow-men) be judged according to their works. Thanks be to God who giveth his people the victory in that day, through Jesus Christ our Lord.
In silence we passed on from one tomb, one mosque, to another.
"Where are we going now?" Hugh asked, after we had ridden on for some time.
"To the petrified forest."
"Shall we find the trees standing, all turned into stone? For petrified means turned into stone, does it not?" said Lucy.
"Yes, it does. But I do not think we shall find any trees standing, from what I have read about the 'petrified wood.'"
True enough. When we reached the petrified forest in the Valley of Wanderings (this valley forms the beginning of the desert leading to the Red Sea) we did not see a single tree, but the sand was for miles covered with fragments of wood. Though these were turned into stone, we could see knots and fibres, and even the rough bark, which showed them to be fragments of trees.
"Is it not wonderful!" exclaimed Hugh.
It was indeed wonderful. And now we came to what looked like the trunk of a large tree; there was another like it, at a little distance; they must have been quite fifty feet long, or more; they lay in the sand, and seemed to have broken as they fell, for there were small pieces scattered about all around.
"What made it?" Lucy asked.
None of us could tell; nor have we since been able to find any account of how these trees were turned into stone. But it seems certain that all this part of the desert, on which there is not now a blade of grass, must have been covered by a wood.
We could but look and wonder. "How unsearchable are the judgments of God, and his ways past finding out!"
We all picked up some pieces to bring away with us. Then we sat down on one of the large petrified trunks and ate our lunch, the wonders all round us giving us plenty to talk about the while.
On our way home we came round by another group of tombs beneath the mountains of Mokattam. We had had a long day, and it was nearly sunset when we left the tombs.
The sunset clouds were gorgeous. All at once, as the sun sank beneath them, the deep-toned sound of the muezzin called the faithful followers of the prophet Mohammed to prayer. Every one around us prostrated themselves. Our hearts obeyed the call; we offered our thanks to our Heavenly Father, who has made such a world of beauty and wonder for our enjoyment.
"O God, O good beyond compare,If thus Thy meaner works are fair,If thus Thy bounties gild the spanOf ruined earth and sinful man,What must those glorious mansions beWhen Thy redeemed shall dwell with Thee!"
OO ur party was now to be divided for a time. We were all anxious to see the Nile, but it was thought better for the children and their mother to stay quietly in Cairo. Those who were not pressed for time offered to remain with them, while the others hastened up to the second cataract. After much discussing and arranging, it was decided that three should stay with the invalid and her children in Cairo, and the other three should go up the Nile together.The most comfortable sort of boat for travelling is the "dahabieh." One was engaged. Mohammed laid in the stores necessary for the journey; and when all was ready, we went to Boulak, which is the port of Cairo, to see the travellers start.
O ur party was now to be divided for a time. We were all anxious to see the Nile, but it was thought better for the children and their mother to stay quietly in Cairo. Those who were not pressed for time offered to remain with them, while the others hastened up to the second cataract. After much discussing and arranging, it was decided that three should stay with the invalid and her children in Cairo, and the other three should go up the Nile together.The most comfortable sort of boat for travelling is the "dahabieh." One was engaged. Mohammed laid in the stores necessary for the journey; and when all was ready, we went to Boulak, which is the port of Cairo, to see the travellers start.
We went on board the dahabieh.
"What a beautiful room!" Lucy exclaimed, as she went into the saloon.
And so indeed it was. Carpets, cushions, divans, book-shelves; nothing was wanting to make the dahabieh a most luxurious little home. There were easy-chairs of every kind on deck, and an awning was spread as a protection from the sun. The crew consisted of a captain, or reis, as he is called, a pilot, and fourteen Arab sailors.
We exchanged farewells, heartily wishing that we too were going, and they started. As we waved our last farewells from the shore, Hugh said, in a disconsolate voice, "Great fun for them, but no fun for us."
We were all a little dull that evening. But the travellers had promised to keep a journal, and we soon began to think when we should receive news of them.
The first instalment of the journal was brought by a gentleman with whose dahabieh they fell in off Benisooéf. It was eagerly opened and read aloud, while we listened with all our ears and eyes.
The wind was fair when we left Boulak. We passed Roda, the Nilometer, and Old Cairo. Then a long reach of the river brought us to the village of E Deyr, which is inhabited by Copt Christians. We next passed, on our left, El Masarah, where there are large stone quarries. The stone for the Great Pyramid was taken from these quarries.
At Bedreshyn we landed, Mohammed procured donkeys for us, and we set off to see the Pyramids of Sakkara.
We rode first to the village of Mitrahenny, where the ancient city of Memphis once stood. The country round it is very pretty. The village itself stands in a wood of palm-trees. We were told that at the time at which the Nile overflows its banks the people leave their houses and live in the palm-trees, where they put up a sort of scaffolding to sleep on. When the river falls again, they leave the trees, repair their mud huts, and live in them till the next overflow.
Memphis, formerly such a splendid city, is gone. There is scarcely a trace left of this once busy capital of Lower Egypt in which Moses lived, where the poor Jewish captives toiled to make up the tale of bricks for Pharaoh's taskmasters. Some few remains of foundation-walls are found in the sand. But nothing is left to tell of the temples and palaces of this ancient city, except only a part of a colossal statue of Rameses, called Sesostris. It is of a pure white, made of polished limestone, and must have been more than forty feet in height. The statue lay on its face, and we could not see the features. It has a scroll in its hands. Pieces of the legs and feet were lying about. All around are magnificent palm-trees.
BRICKMAKING(from Egyptian Sculpture).
The Pyramids of Sakkara are near the village of the same name. The largest of them is called by the Arabs "the Pyramid of Degrees." It has outside six stories or degrees, each smaller than the one below it. Inside are passages and chambers.
Near the pyramids are the famous pits, in which are ibis mummies. The ibis was a sacred bird among the Egyptians. We bought one of these mummies. It was enclosed in a round earthen jar, the top of which was shaped like a cone, and was fastened down strongly with cement.
BRICKMAKING(from Egyptian Sculpture).
The bird was rolled up in long bandages of linen. The head and neck were folded over the breast, the wings laid close to the sides, and the long legs were folded up and brought close to the beak. The bird was perfect. We said we knew how delighted you all, and especially Hugh and Lucy, would be to see it. But our curiosity was selfish. As soon as the air played on it, it crumbled into dust.
THE SACRED IBIS.
There are some fine tombs near the Pyramids of Sakkara. We went to the one which we were told was the best worth seeing. The roof was hollowed into the shape of an arch and covered with smoothly-cut stones cemented together. This led into a room in which is a deep well. We also saw some hieroglyphics, and some sculpture; most of these represented men carrying birds. It was not very interesting, and we did not stay long to look at it.
We had a delightful ride back to Bedreshyn, through fields and among clumps of thorny mimosa, on which the camels love to browse. The palm-trees looked beautiful in the clear sunlight. Nothing was wanting but the song of birds, and this is a want almost always felt by Europeans in the hot climates of Africa and Asia.
The next day we went to the Pyramids of Dashoor. Two are of stone and two of brick. The first was the largest. Colonel Howard Vyse gives its height as three hundred and twenty feet. The entrance was covered with stones and rubbish. The second pyramid is not so large. The ascent to the entrance is not very difficult, but the descent is exceedingly so, and there is not much to repay one for the trouble.
We returned to our boat in good time, and were much amused, after we had again started, by watching the peasants raising water from the river with poles and buckets, and with looking at the Arab boats, a number of which passed us.
We next came to El Kafr el Jyat. It is only a small village, but in it is the residence of a wealthy chief whose hospitable house is the resort of travellers. He bears the title of Khabeéree, or "the guide." We find from Sir G. Wilkinson's book[A]that this title "has been hereditary in his family since the time of Sultan Selim, who gave it to his ancestor as a reward for his services in that capacity, when he took possession of the country after the defeat of the son of El Ghoree."
[A]"Modern Egypt," vol. ii.
We next passed the False Pyramid. It takes its name from the base being of rock and not really part of the building.
The banks of the river and villages were enlivened with palm-trees. But we passed no place of any size or interest till we came to Benisooéf.
Benisooéf is the capital of the province, the Fyoom, and has several manufactories of cotton and silk.
We are lounging idly on deck looking at the scene before us. A great many boats are tied to the shore, and a number of people are on the quay. The children are tolerably clad, and some of the old men are exceedingly picturesque in their white dresses, with their cloaks thrown over their shoulders and leaning on their staves; girls are coming down to fill their jars with water and carrying them away most gracefully on their heads. And as for animals! Hugh would find more than enough to satisfy him. Dogs, goats, poultry, cows, horses, camels, buffaloes! Andsucha noise! we can scarcely hear ourselves speak for the clatter. But a gentleman who is going down to Cairo, and will leave at daybreak, has just sent to know whether he can take any letters for us. So good-by for the present.
SCENE ON THE NILE.
II t was some little time before we could expect the next part of our travellers' journal.Hugh very much wished to go to the citadel again. Lucy wanted to pay another visit to the gardens at Shoubra. We gave an afternoon to each, and almost every morning we went to the Mission Schools; either to the girls' school or to the ragged school. The more we saw, the more we admired the energy and self-denial of Mr. and Mrs. Lieder, and the more zealous and anxious we grew to do what little we could to help in the great work of making known the love of Jesus Christ and the salvation he has bought for us with his blood. Those who have the love of Christ really in their hearts must always long to make others love him too.
I t was some little time before we could expect the next part of our travellers' journal.Hugh very much wished to go to the citadel again. Lucy wanted to pay another visit to the gardens at Shoubra. We gave an afternoon to each, and almost every morning we went to the Mission Schools; either to the girls' school or to the ragged school. The more we saw, the more we admired the energy and self-denial of Mr. and Mrs. Lieder, and the more zealous and anxious we grew to do what little we could to help in the great work of making known the love of Jesus Christ and the salvation he has bought for us with his blood. Those who have the love of Christ really in their hearts must always long to make others love him too.
Day by day went on and we began to watch anxiously for some more news. The gentleman who had brought the first part of the journal told us that he knew there was another dahabieh which was not very far behind him. He had passed it, not having time to stop and see all that its travellers were stopping to see.
At last this dahabieh arrived, and we had a large packet. Lucy had leave to open it. She and Hugh danced about in delight for the first few minutes. Their father was one of the party who had gone, which made the joy of news the greater.
The first great excitement of the arrival was soon over, and we all clustered together eagerly to hear the contents of the large letter.
We finished our last letter just after we arrived at Benisooéf. It is a large town, and was once famous for its manufacture of linen.
We started the next morning with a fair wind. We passed Isment; and near it, the quarries from which the beautifully veined marble was obtained of which the mosque of Mohammed Ali at Cairo was built.
But what delighted us most was the high table-mountain, Sheikh Embárak. This giant seemed standing to block our path. Its surface is broken; and as we neared it, we saw one large cliff which looked like a ruined castle. The Sheikh, like some other giants of olden times, is accustomed to give travellers rather a rough welcome, and we came in for one of his gusty greetings in a sudden gale of wind.
Tell Lucy that her father, who was lounging in a chair on castors, suddenly found his chair running away from him, and he narrowly escaped a ducking in the Nile. And tell both Hugh and Lucy that the dahabieh lay over so suddenly that every one else was nearly following me, and that if I had gone over into the Nile, I should only have been ready to welcome the others who were coming after.
After this unwilling prostration to the Sheikh, we went on without any further trouble.
A rock in the stream next attracted our attention. It is called the Hagar o' Salam, or Rock of Welfare, because the boatmen say that they cannot venture to call a voyage down the Nile prosperous until they have passed it. We looked at it with interest. It seemed an emblem of our Saviour Jesus Christ; for, till we have come to him, there can be no safety for us in our voyage on the river of life.
Our journey was, after this, a little dull for a time. On both banks of the Nile we saw the sites of various ancient towns; and at Khom Amer, or "the Red Mound," there were some rough grottoes. We also saw the mounds of the ancient Cynopolis, the "City of the Dogs."
The mountain chain of Gebel e' Tayr was more interesting. Some of the mountains rise straight up from the water, and are enlivened with palm-trees; and on the opposite banks we saw some fine acacias. The top of Gebel e' Tayr is flat. On it stands a convent called Sitleh Mariam el Adea, or "Our Lady Mary the Virgin." It is a Copt convent. But I am afraid that religion has little effect there, for there seems to be more begging than industry among the monks. As soon as they see a boat full of travellers coming they hurry down the cliffs and swim out on inflated water-skins to ask for charity. Our Arab boatmen were inclined to treat them rather roughly, and we were heartily glad when we got beyond their beat, for they were very noisy and clamorous in their petitions for alms.
Gebel e' Tayr means "the mountain of the bird." There is a curious legend belonging to it. It is said that all the birds in the country assemble here every year. They choose one of their number who is to stay on the mountain till the next year. Then all the rest fly away and leave the poor solitary bird by himself till the next year, when a fresh one is chosen to take his place.
We have now just arrived at Minieh, six days exactly since we left you all at Boulak. We are going to dinner, and then on shore.
"I want to ask something before you go on, please," said Hugh. "Why was that city called 'the City of the Dogs'?"
"Because the dog was then considered to be a particularly sacred animal. One of the largest repositories of dog mummies is found on the opposite bank. It was not unusual in Egypt for a city to bury its dead, as well as its sacred animals, on the opposite shore of the Nile, especially if a better place could be found there for making catacombs."
Minieh is a pretty and busy town. Near the landing-place we saw the tomb of a sheikh, shaded over by a palm-tree, which is very picturesque. We admired the houses too, with their trellised balconies overhanging the river. And there are such queer little coffee-shops! Some are tents, some only little huts made of reeds. We found the bazaar airy and some of the buildings handsome. The country round Minieh is rich and beautiful; it abounds in groves of palm-trees and in every kind of fruit. We enjoyed our ramble exceedingly, and the two guns brought back a fair share of wild fowl.
EASTERN BAZAAR.
Our next stopping-place was Beni-Hassan; we arrived this morning, and have been on shore all day.
The tombs of Beni-Hassan are open to the Nile, and are ornamented with coloured figures or other devices, and are very old.
EGYPTIAN LOOM.
a b. Rollers for carrying and tightening the warp.c c c. The warpd d. Frame of the machine.e f. Movable bars, for pressing the successive weft threads together.g. Roller for relieving the cloth when woven.h. Hooked stick (used instead of a shuttle) to carry the weft threads.
We went first into the most northern tomb. In front of the entrance is a portico, supported by pillars, which leads into a vaulted room: its roof is supported by four large pillars. These pillars have been coloured to imitate red granite, and so have the lower part of the walls. Above this coloured part of the wall are long lines of figures; some employed in outdoor work, some in indoor work, some in amusements. Some are fishing, some are watering flax, some dancing, others wrestling.
FISHING.
In one part there are men catching wild fowl in nets; in another part there are women kneading or making bread; and others playing the harp.
On one part of the wall we saw a procession. As we had heard that this procession represented the arrival of Joseph's brethren, we were very much interested with it. The first figure is an Egyptian scribe, who is giving an account of the arrival of the strangers to one of the chief officers of the king, and the owner of the tomb. The next, also an Egyptian, is ushering the strangers into his presence. Two of the strangers are advancing, and bring with them presents, a goat and a gazelle. Four men follow, carrying bows and clubs, and leading an ass, which two children are riding on in panniers, accompanied by a boy and four women. Last, are another ass, laden, and two men; one of these holds a bow and club, and the other a lyre.
POTTERS.
We saw another curious tomb, where there is a hunting scene, and the name of each animal is written above it, in hieroglyphics. Below this are birds, and their names are also written. There we saw a group of women jumping and dancing; others playing at ball, throwing up three balls one after another and catching them; men dancing on one leg and performing other feats of skill.
IDOL PAINTERS.
The occupations and trades of the ancient Egyptians are also shown. There are goldsmiths, glass-blowers, painters, potters, workers in flax. On one wall there are wrestlers in different attitudes; on another, some unhappy people who are undergoing the bastinado. We were surprised, too, to see that dwarfs and deformed people formed part of the trains of the great men of Egypt in those days, just as they did in Rome in later days.
In one of the tombs we saw a Greek alphabet on the wall; the letters were transposed in different ways, apparently for the purpose of teaching Greek.
We meant to have gone to see the Temple of Diana of the Egyptians, but were all tired, and have left it till our return.
We have been obliged to have a strict watch kept over our boat to-day. The villages of Beni-Hassan were destroyed by order of the pacha some years ago, because the people were such great thieves. But this cure for theft does not seem to have answered, for the villagers still have the character of a love of pilfering.
We sat up rather late last night, helping each other with our journal for your amusement. Just as we were putting by our pens and paper we were startled by seeing a bright light. Mohammed appeared and told us that a dahabieh was on fire, and that English travellers were on board. We hurried on deck. The dahabieh was a mass of fire. Pillars of smoke rose from it, and large tongues of flame darted from them and seemed to lick down into the fire whatever came into their way. There was a great buzz of voices on the shore, and the wild light cast a lurid glare on the figures which were hurrying to and fro. A European figure rushed on shore with something in his arms, then darted back and was lost in the smoke. We did not wait to see more, but went on shore instantly.
There was no possibility of saving the dahabieh. But every one on board was safe, and we brought the travellers to our dahabieh, where they are now.
They prove to be Mr. and Miss Roper, father and daughter, a European servant, and a negress girl, whom they call Rahaba. I never heard such an outpouring of fervent thanksgiving as Mr. Roper offered up to God as soon as they were all safely on board our boat. It reminded us of the history of Jacob wrestling with the angel, "I will not let thee go except thou bless me."
Rahaba has a sad expression of face, but her eyes brighten when Miss Roper speaks to her.
Mr. and Miss Roper only arrived at Beni-Hassan that evening. There seemed little chance of their being able to get on to Cairo, so we asked them to be our guests and to return over their old ground with us.
We left Beni-Hassan the next morning, and saw crocodiles that day for the first time. They were on a sandbank basking in the sun. One was very large, the two others smaller. A salute from our guns was fired at them, which made the smaller crocodiles rush into the water in a great hurry, but the larger one treated us with cool contempt.
The first sight of Manfaloot was charming. A sudden bend of the river brought us full in view of its minarets, which rise from a group of mingled buildings and palm-trees.
HEAD OF CROCODILE.
We have not landed since we left Beni-Hassan. Miss Roper has been making a sketch of our reis and the crew. Rahaba looks on her sketch-book and colour-box as some kind of magic possessions, and contrived to save them from the fire in consequence.
Miss Roper took the sketch at sunset. The sky was flooded with gorgeous tints, and their glow was reflected on our reis as he sat in his blue robes and crimson turban, smoking his pipe. We shall reach Thebes to-night, and shall go on shore early to-morrow to see some of the interesting sights of which Mr. Roper has been telling us.
RUINS OF THEBES.
Our boat was moored as near as possible to the village of Koorneh, or Karnac, as it is often called. We went on shore early in the morning and visited the small palace and temple of Koorneh, and then rode on for about twenty minutes to the palace-temple of Rameses the Second. This is one of the most interesting temples in the valley of the Nile. The entrance leads into a court where are the ruins of the largest statue in the world. It is made of granite from the quarries of Syene.
Mr. Roper told us that this was a statue of the king, seated on his throne with his hands resting on his knees. Judging from the fragments the foot must have been eleven feet long and about four feet ten inches wide. The statue measured twelve feet ten inches from the shoulder to the elbow, twenty-two feet four inches across the shoulders.
The throne and the legs are quite destroyed. The figure is broken at the waist, and the upper part is thrown back on the ground. No one knows who erected or who destroyed this giant statue. We gazed at the ruin with astonishment, almost with awe.
In a beautiful court, with a double row of columns, we saw some interesting sculpture. An enemy is flying from the Egyptians. The complexions and features of the men are quite different from those of the Egyptians. They are fleeing towards the river in chariots; some are represented as drowning in the river, and others as entreating for mercy. In the grand hall we saw another battle-scene.
The great hall leads into a room with eight columns, which support the roof. On it are represented the Egyptian months, and on the wall are sacred arks borne by priests. The side walls of the temple are destroyed, so that the pillars are seen to great advantage.
GRAND HARP.
We saw, too, the famous colossal statues; they are made of a hard stone, marked with black and red oxide of iron. The northern statue is called Salamet by the Arabs. It is the celebrated statue of Memnon, which was said to utter a sound of melody every morning at sunrise, and a mournful sound at sunset. The sides of the throne are ornamented with figures; they represent the god Nilus winding up a pedestal, over which is the name of the king who made them. The statues of his wife and mother are attached to the throne. We then went to the Temple of Medeénet Háboo. The early Christians had a settlement here, and they used one of the deserted courts of the great temple for a church, hiding the idolatrous sculptures with a coat of mud. But a time of persecution came. The colony was invaded by Arabs, the Christians fled to the neighbourhood of Esneh, and the village of Medeénet Háboo fell into ruins.
We passed the palace of Rameses the Third, and went into the temple. Two fine pillars ornament the doorway which leads from the court into a corridor before the second doorway. Over this doorway there is a beautiful winged globe and serpent, the colouring of which still remains.
This doorway leads into another corridor and afterwards into a small court. We looked at this court with great interest, because Mr. Roper told us that it was built by Tirhakeh, whose battles with Sennacherib we read of in the Bible.
On the outside wall of the temple, King Rameses is represented in his chariot, attended by fan-bearers and lions, and advancing with his army. His enemies are defeated, and heaps of tongues are among the tokens of his victory.
In another part, the king, while pursuing his enemy, is attacked by lions. He kills two with his arrows, and is on the point of killing another with his spear.