PIONEERS REACH FORT LARAMIE,—JUNE 2, 1847.
In the Redman's Country.—Indian Customs.—Hunting Became Excessive.—Description of the Bluffs.—Guide Board 409 Miles From Winter Quarters.—Chimney Rock.—Brigham Young Rebukes Card Playing and Frivolity.—Fasting and Prayer.—Arrive at Fort Laramie.—Ascending the Plateaux.—Word From the Mormon Battalion.
About the 11th of May, the pioneers found themselves in the heart of the Indians' country. The red man would naturally take some alarm at the approach of so numerous a body of men, and his presence along the route was indicated, as a rule, by the camping ground which had been deserted at the approach of the white man. Here and there solitary Indians were observed, and occasionally a small number approached the camp. The Sioux were a somewhat treacherous, warlike tribe; and following the habits of the Indian, some of their tribe would follow the pioneers for days, remaining concealed in daylight, hoping for opportunities to steal horses and cattle by night. Fortunately the pioneers adopted the most precautionary methods of guarding against the loss of their horses and cattle.
The Indians were not without some knowledge of the retreat of their ancestors before the western movement which was going on rapidly in those days. Their viewpoint therefore justifies both the fear and the dislike of the white man. The pioneers, realizing the attitude of the Indian, did all in their power to assure him of their friendship, but it was not easy on a journey such as that to cultivate any particular acquaintance. Elder Woodruff's journal shows the remarkable interest that he took in whatever related to the customs and manners of the Indians.
Speaking of the Sioux, he says: "We found ourselves traveling over their hunting grounds. Some eight or ten days prior to our encampment on the 11th of May, there had been a large band of some 500 to 1,000 located at one place. They had taken the brains out of a large buffalo. Generally they took the hide and some of the meat, and sometimes they broke the bones for themarrow. In one place we found a hundred calves with nothing taken except the tongues, the legs to the knees, and the entrails. In another place thirty-five buffalo calves were found dead where they had been washed up in heaps in their unsuccessful effort to cross the river. On one of the bluffs, I found a medicine bag tied to a stick six feet long, the stick having been stuck into the bank. I also found a saddle tied to a large buffalo for the purpose, I supposed, of showing the next party of Indians which direction the buffaloes had gone.
"Wishing to explore the country somewhat, I left my horse to feed in the valley while I went on to an elevated bluff. While gone, the horse started off, and not seeing the camp, took an opposite direction and I was compelled to run after him. In doing this, I ran through a great camping ground of the Sioux where lodges had been on their hunting expeditions. Here I left my gun and followed my horse until I overtook him. On my return I examined the ground more minutely and estimated that there had been something like 500 lodges. There were acres of ground covered with buffalo wool where they had dressed the skins of buffaloes and wolves, etc. I brought in a good dressed white wolf skin with me. The day following, many of the brethren went out and brought in parts of robes, leather, etc., which had been left. The next day, the pioneers made a journey of eleven miles. The bluffs, for the first time on the journey along the north fork, came boldly up to the river front so that we were obliged to go over these bluffs with our wagons.
"There is one thing concerning the Platte River worthy of note. It is much of the way a mile in width, generally covered with water, but very shallow. When the south wind blows hard, the water all rushes to the north shore so that one would suppose that there was a great rise in the tide. When the wind shifts to the north, the water immediately recedes from the north shore until one can walk across two-thirds of the river on bare ground. Thus the river constantly ebbs and flows like a tide.
"Early on the morning of the 14th, I went out to hunt buffaloes and returned to breakfast and started out again with Phineas Young. I was lost among the bluffs, but after a time, found my way out again. Brother Phineas shot a buck antelope which I carried into camp. All told, three antelopes and onebuffalo were killed. Some of the hunters thought they heard Indian guns during the night on the opposite side of the river. An Indian had gone up to a pair of mules that were tied together and grabbed at them, but the mules sprang back and got out of the way. One of the guards shot at him and he ran. All the horses were then brought into the circle of our camp and the cannon prepared, but no Indian being seen, it was not fired."
Such a large company would naturally be conspicuous to the Indians, and no doubt the sound of music in those solitary regions attracted them, as the camp was often animated in the evening by the sounds of music from all parts. On the morning of the 15th, bear foot tracks were seen in large numbers. That day the distance covered was only eight miles. This short distance was due in part to the difficulty encountered in crossing over the numerous bluffs along the river. In those regions there was nothing to break the cold, raw winds that came from the north. Civilization had not then set up its wind breaks, and the winds made the climate often quite disagreeable away into the month of May.
"Sunday, the 16th of May," he says, "was cold. With Brothers Young, Kimball, Benson, Rockwell, and Stephens, I rode four miles over the bluffs to pick out a road for the pioneers that they might again get on to the bottom land. We had a good meeting in the afternoon and the laws of the camp were read. One of the brethren had shot an antelope and a buffalo. It was a violation of the camp to go hunting on the Sabbath. The 17th was warm and pleasant, but the road was difficult. For two and a half miles we drove through sand bluffs and again struck the bottom land four and a half miles from the camping place. The hunters brought in three buffaloes which detained the camp for some time. President Young was not pleased with the excessive hunting, as they already had much meat in the camp. Large herds of deer were seen in the valley, more than had been seen before. A young fawn was picked up and brought into camp. I led the company of pioneers mostly through the bluffs in the morning before Brothers Young and Kimball came up. Upon their arrival, we rode together all day picking out the road.
"The next day the camp was called together and President Young reproved sharply the hunters for killing more game thanwas necessary, for detaining the camp, and because of their indifference in helping to pick out the road. He said there were but two men who had manifested any interest in helping to get the pioneers along. Afterward the horsemen went forward to pick out the road instead of hunting, and I did not hear a gun fired during the day."
The spring was well advanced and rain began to take the place of wind. Elder Woodruff in his journal entry of May 19th says: "We encountered today the worst sandhill on the journey; and what made it worse, the rain was pouring down continuously. We had more rain today than during the whole journey. I rode forward during the day, picking out the road. We made eight miles.
"Next morning we made seven miles and nooned near Ash Creek, on the south side of the river where the Oregon road first strikes the north fork of the Platte. Several of the brethren went over in the boat, which we were taking along, to examine the rocky bluffs, roads, creek, etc.
"In the afternoon, we traveled eight and three-quarters miles and camped for the night. We had a very good road most of the day on the bank of the river. There was a good deal of rocky bluff on both sides of the river, and some on the south side was formed into natural terraces, rotundas, squares, etc., from fifty to a hundred feet high and looked like good foundations for fortifications and strong-holds. They resemble the works of art and look something like the old castles of England and Scotland. They were level on the top. There is a beautiful Cedar Island in the river a short distance above Ash Creek which is a good landmark to show travelers where the Oregon road strikes the river."
Near by the nooning place was a cedar tree in the branches of which an Indian child was deposited for burial. Along with it were utensils necessary for its future enjoyment.
On the 21st a large petrified bone was found. It was the leg bone from the knee down. Its length was seventeen and a half inches, greatest width eleven inches, greatest thickness six inches, its weight was twenty-seven pounds.
"Before we left the encampment in the morning, Brother Clayton put up a guide board for the benefit of the next company.'From Winter Quarters, 409 miles; from the Junction 93 1/4 miles; Cedar Bluff 36 1/2; Ash Creek 8 miles and 133 from Fort Laramie.' When we reached our camping place for the night, two Indians came up from the bluffs, making signs for us to come to them. It was a Sioux Indian and his squaw. They talked by signs and went away.
"Our road on the journey the day following was very straight, but we came over two and a half miles of the worst sand hill that we had passed. The bluffs presented the most singular natural scenery I had ever beheld in all my travels. They had the appearance of the old walls and ruins of the castles of Europe.
"The next day was Sunday the 23rd. In company with Brigham Young and the Twelve, I visited the top of the highest bluff ruins that were opposite our encampment, which were truly a curiosity. We had a fair view of Chimney Rock from where we were. I carried a bleached buffalo's head on the top and we wrote upon it our names and the distance from several places. Orson Pratt took a barometrical observation on the solitary cedar tree on the top of the bluff ruins.
"The camp met at half past eleven in the morning for Sabbath services. Erastus Snow addressed the meeting, followed by President Young who said he was satisfied that the Lord was with us and leading us. He had never seen a company of people more united than the camp had been thus far on the journey, that we should pluck the fruit of the mission through all eternity, that he had many things to teach us but could not do it except in a stake of Zion, but he was well satisfied with his brethren and the Twelve, and the camp at large. One thing he would say to the praise of the company and that was that not one had refused to obey his counsel on the journey. His peace with God was continually like a river, and he felt that the spirit of peace rested upon the whole company. Several others spoke and the meeting was then dismissed.
"We intended to ride out in the evening, but saw that a storm was gathering. It began to blow very hard and it was all we could do to save our wagon bows and covers from being destroyed. It continued for about an hour and then rained for another hour accompanied by hail. I covered all my horses with all the blankets I could get, and got up several times in the night to see them. Itrained occasionally and the horses shook with cold, but when morning came all were alive and we continued our journey.
"As soon as we camped at noon, two Indians came to the camp. They were Sioux and well dressed and clean. We gave them dinner and they left. We camped at night near the Quicksand Mountain, making sixteen and one half miles that day. I rode about two miles forward to find grass and a camping ground, and on my return saw about thirty Sioux plunge their horses into the river on the opposite side and made towards us. I rode with several others to the river and met them as they came out. They shook hands with us very friendly. The chief unfurled a large American flag with the eagle, stars, and stripes and presented me a letter written in French which we, however, made out. They were all well dressed and the chief was in a military coat. The brethren brought a white flag and planted it by the side of theirs. They wanted to go into camp. We proposed for five of them to go and the rest to remain, but they all wished to go, so we let them and gave them supper. They were in camp all night, but were good and stole nothing.
"Some trading was done with the Sioux next morning and we gave them breakfast. They behaved well also when we started across the river. I had to keep my carriage today having the rheumatism in my shoulders and back, and my teeth ached.
"We nooned next day, Tuesday, May 25th, in good grass two miles above Chimney Rock; and I rode with Brothers Kimball and Benson to look out a road. By our imperfect measurement by a trigonometrical observation by the sextant, Professor Pratt made Chimney Rock to be two hundred and sixty feet above the level of the river.
"Just before camping at noon while traveling on a smooth prairie, an Indian horse that was bought of the Sioux ran away with a singletree at his heels and gave tremendous fright to the cows, oxen and horses. In an instant a dozen or more wagons were darting by each other like lightning and the horses and mules dashing over the ground, some turning to the right and some to the left and some ran into other wagons. The horses and mules that Brother Fowler was driving leaped by my carriage like electricity and came within one inch of a collision with my wheels which would have made a wreck. Another wagon with a pairof mules and a yoke of cattle dashed by which would also have smashed my carriage had they locked. By this time, my own horses started to run, but were held back by the driver. Fowler's wagon continued regardless of rough or smooth ground about fifty rods, he being dragged the whole distance by the bit which was the case with many others; but all were soon stopped and returned to their lines without accident which appeared truly a miracle. A person can hardly conceive the power manifested by animals, especially mules, in such a fright. It gave us some idea of what an Indian yell would do in a camp with teams hitched to wagons.
"Brother Kimball and myself picked the road during our journey of the following morning, and in the afternoon I piloted as straight as any road yet made on the whole route, and picked out a camping ground on the bank of the river in good feed. It should be understood that we were pioneering a road for the whole House of Israel to travel over for many years to come and it required, therefore, the greatest care in marking the route.
"A cold rainy morning followed and we concluded not to start until the rain stopped. We remained till 10 o'clock and traveled eleven and one-half miles and camped for the night. During the evening, President Young called at my fire, and seeing several brethren playing dominoes in a wagon near by, he began to teach, saying that the devil was getting power over the camp which had for several days given way to cards and dominoes, etc., and that if they did not speedily repent, their works, labors, and journey would be in vain. He said that to be sure the camp did not quarrel, for the devil would not set them at that as long as he could draw them gradually away from their duty and fill them with nonsense and folly, for the devil was very cunning in winning away the people of God. I felt the force of his remarks.
"During the evening I went into Dr. Richards' wagon and read a chapter in the Book of Mormon and prayed with him, after which President Young, H. C. Kimball, Willard Richards, E. T. Benson, and myself met in council in Brother Brigham's wagon. President Young wrote some of the words of the Lord concerning the camp and expressed his views and feelings—that they must speedily repent or they would be cursed, that they were forgetting their mission, and that he would rather travelwith ten righteous men who would keep the commandments of the Lord than the whole camp while in a careless manner and forgetting God. We stayed together until ten o'clock.
"Next morning President Young called the camp together and required each captain separately to call out his men and when all were present, except two who had gone out hunting, he addressed them in something like the following words:
'I think I will take as my text to preach my sermon from,I am about to revolt from traveling with this camp any further with the spirit they now possess.I had rather risk myself among the savages with ten men who are men of faith, men of mighty prayer, men of God, than to be with the whole camp when they forget the Lord and turn their hearts to folly and wickedness. Yes, I would rather be alone and I am now resolved not to go any farther with the camp unless you will consent to humble yourselves before the Lord and serve Him and cease your folly and wickedness. For a week past, nearly the whole camp has been card playing, and checkers and dominoes have occupied the attention of the brethren, and dancing has been going on continually.
'Now it is time to quit it. There have been trials and lawsuits upon every nonsensical thing; and if this is suffered to go on, it will be but a short time before you are fighting, knocking each other down and taking life. It is time it was stopped.
'I do not want to hear any more such reports as I heard last Sunday of men going to meeting and preaching to the rest after playing cards until meeting time. You are a pretty set of men going to look out a location among the mountains for a resting place for the Saints—even the whole Church of God—who have been driven out from the Gentiles and rejected of them. And after you have established a location, you are then going out to preach the Gospel, seal salvation upon the house of Israel, and gather the nations.
'How would you look if they should know your conduct and ask you what you did when you went to seek out Zion and find a resting place for the Saints where the standard of the Kingdom of God could be reared and her banners unfurled for the nations to gather unto?
'Did you spend a good deal of your time in dancing, pitchingquoits, jumping, wrestling, and the like? Yes, yes. Did you play cards, dice, checkers, and dominoes? O, yes. What could you do with yourselves? Why you would shrink from the glance of the eyes of God, angels and men—even wicked men. Then are you not ashamed of yourselves for practicing these things? Yes, you are, and you must quit it.'
"After speaking somewhat lengthily upon these matters, President Young called the Twelve together, and the high priests, seventies, and elders. There were present eight of the quorum of the Twelve, eighteen high priests, eighty seventies, and eight elders. After this was done, President Young said unto the Twelve:
'If you are willing to humble yourselves before the Lord and consent to the right, and walk humbly before Him, make it manifest by raising the right hand.'
"Then each one raised his hand. The same question was put to the high priests, seventies, elders, and members and all consented with uplifted hands to humble themselves before the Lord, repent of their sins and keep His commandments.
"President Young then spoke of those who were not in the Church, as there were some present. They would be protected in their rights, but they must not introduce wickedness into the camp, for it would not be suffered. He also spoke of the standard and ensign that would be reared in Zion.
"Elder Kimball followed and said that the words of President Young were as the words of the Lord unto him and just as binding as though they were a written revelation, and that they were just as binding upon the whole camp as they were upon him, and he urged the pioneers to give heed to the teachings that had been given.
"Orson Pratt remarked that if the Saints had leisure hours, they could spend them to much better advantage than playing cards, as there was a world of knowledge and science to be obtained and every moment should be improved in storing the mind with some good principle. He acknowledged the teachings we had received to be of the Lord."
Elder Woodruff said: "A burned child dreads the fire. He had not forgotten his journey in the Camp of Zion in 1834; and should he live to the age of Methuselah, he should not forget thehour when the Prophet and Seer, Joseph Smith, stood upon the wagon wheel and addressed that Camp and said that because they had not hearkened unto his counsel, but disobeyed and transgressed from time to time, judgment would come and that we should be visited by the destroying angel. And so we were, and more than twenty of our members fell by the stroke and we all suffered much in our feelings. I pray the Lord I may not see another such time; and I would now advise my brethren to be careful in keeping the covenant we have made lest the word of the Lord come unto us as in the days of Joseph and we cannot escape a judgment. I would advise all the brethren who have cards and the like to burn them, for if you keep the covenants you have made, you will have no time to use them; and if you keep them for your children, they will only prove a curse to them. My prayer to God is that we may all be enabled to keep our covenants with the Lord and each other. I rejoice that the watchmen in our midst are quick to comprehend and warn of evil and reprove us when wrong that we may be saved and do the will of God."
The change in the camp it would appear was quite as sudden as a gust of wind. It was only a short time before this that the pioneers were commended for their zeal and unity. The dangers of self-satisfaction were here demonstrated. Dancing, card playing, and a hilarious life were not in consonance with the solemn mission of that band of pioneers whose journey was to be likened in years to come to the exodus of the children of Israel. That journey was to be an inspiration to generations that would follow. The Sabbath following, May 30th, was set apart for prayer and fasting.
"In the morning I shaved, cleansed my body, put on clean clothing, etc., read a chapter in the Book of Mormon, humbled myself before the Lord, and poured out my soul in prayer before Him, and His spirit descended upon me and I was blessed and prepared for the service of the day. Then I spent some time in writing in my journal.
"The camp had a prayer meeting in the morning and met again for public meeting. President Young, with the Quorum of the Twelve and a few others went into a valley of the hills and prayed according to the order of the priesthood. Porter Rockwell and Brother Carrington watched to see that no Indians cameupon us. We had a good time. A heavy shower appeared, but most of it went around us and there was but little rain where we were.
"We returned to our wagons, took some refreshments, having eaten nothing all day; and soon the sun came out pleasantly. In the evening I went out two miles with the Quorum of the Twelve on to a high bluff. We had a good view of the Black Hills. There we also engaged in prayer.
"Two days afterward we camped opposite Fort Laramie. This was June 1st. When we arrived, we saw some men approaching us from the Fort. We found them to be a part of the company of Mississippi brethren who had been in Pueblo through the winter. Brother Crow and his family, seven wagons and fourteen mules were at Fort Laramie. He informed us that the remainder of the Mississippi company with a portion of the Mormon Battalion at Pueblo would start for Laramie about the 1st of June and follow our trail. He told us of four of the brethren who had died, but he had heard nothing of the main body of the Battalion.
"President Young suggested the propriety of our leaving all our ploughs at the Fort except such as we needed to use immediately when we got to our destination, and also to do our blacksmithing, mending of wagons as soon as possible so that we might go on our journey speedily. A company was appointed to attend to the herding and other branches of business.
"June the 2nd, in company with the Twelve and others, I crossed the river to visit the Fort. We examined Fort St. John which was now vacant, but was still standing. The dimensions of this Fort were 144 by 152 outside, and inside contained sixteen rooms. The largest on the north side was 93 feet long and 47 feet wide. The Oregon trail ran one rod from the S. W. corner of the Fort.
"We next visited Fort Laramie, then occupied by thirty-nine persons, mostly French who had married the Sioux. Mr. Burdoe was the superintendent. This Fort was 168 by 116 feet outside with six rooms inside. It was quite a pleasant location for a Fort.
"Mr. Burdoe was a Frenchman. He received us kindly and invited us into a large sitting room. He gave us all the informationhe could in relation to our route and furnished us with his flat bottom boat on reasonable terms to assist us in ferrying the Platte. He informed us that Governor Boggs and his men had much to say against the Mormons and cautioned him to take care of his horses and cattle, etc., lest they should steal them. He tried to prejudice him all he could against us. Burdoe said that Boggs' company were quarreling all the time, and most of them had deserted him. He finally told Boggs and company that let the Mormons be what they might, they could not be worse than he and his men.
"After conversing with Mr. Burdoe some time we got into the flat bottom boat, about twenty of us, and went down the Laramie Fork to its mouth about two miles and then up the Platte one-half mile to our camp. After dinner we met in council and decided that Amasa Lyman should go to Pueblo with several other brethren to meet the detachment of the Battalion that was there, and for them to come as soon as convenient to Laramie and follow our trail."
The pioneer company now found it necessary to cross the north fork of the Platte, just opposite Fort Laramie, the first permanent post erected in Wyoming. The low even country of Nebraska had been passed, and hereafter the company began its journey in Wyoming. They now found themselves ascending the great eastern plateau of the Rocky Mountain system. Thence forward there began a gradual ascent to the Rocky Mountains in which they hoped to find a safe retreat. The Fort was a trading post in the center of Indian commerce, and had been established as early as 1834. The Fort, however, was located on the Laramie Fork.
Some time was taken in exploring the region as it was to be in the future an important mile post in the journey of the Saints. The name of the river and the fort was taken from a French trapper whose name was Laramie, and who was killed by the Indians on the stream which now bears his name. The Saints presented a busy scene repairing wagons and making preparations for the ascent of the Rocky Mountains. They had kept well to the north, but the route had been established by trappers and explorers. The river afforded a water supply for their animals as well as for domestic purposes. At this time there were practicallyonly two routes across the continent, one to southern California by way of Pueblo, the other along the present route of the Union Pacific railroad. As Oregon was a great objective point in those days, emigrants turned to the northwest before reaching Utah.
"We continued our journey on the 4th of June. The scenery grew more interesting as we began to ascend the Black Hills. Brother Robert Crow had joined us which added to our company nine men, five women, and three children, six wagons, thirteen yoke of oxen, twenty cows, three bulls, ten young cattle and horses which made our camp now one hundred and forty-eight men, eight women, five children, seventy-nine wagons, ninety-six horses, fifty-one mules, ninety oxen, forty-three cows, three bulls, nine calves, sixteen dogs, and sixteen chickens.
"As we traveled farther into the hills, they grew lofty and we began to come into an elk, bear, and mountain-sheep country. Soon after we arrived at the Springs, fifteen miles from Laramie, the first company of Missouri emigrants came up, twelve wagons of them. We journeyed ten and one-half miles farther in the after-noon. The Missouri company camped one-fourth mile below us.
"Next day was Sunday, the 6th, which we devoted to prayer and fasting, but the Missouri company of emigrants started on in the morning. The camp met for prayer-meeting at 8 o'clock and the spirit of the Lord was with the people who met again for preaching at 11 o'clock. We had a shower of rain and the meeting closed. Another company of Missouri wagons, twenty in number, passed us. The rain soon cleared off, and our company moved forward five miles and camped for the night on Bitter Creek.
"The two Missouri companies which had camped near us at night started before us in the morning, and while nooning, another company of thirteen wagons passed us. We were in a fair view of Laramie Peak with its snow covered top. We camped for the night on the Horse Shoe Creek in the best feed we had found on our journey. The hunters brought in two black-tailed deer and one antelope.
"Next day we formed a company of men and went forward with our teams and cleared the road of stone. We used pick-axes, bars, spades, etc., and it was a great help to our weak wagons.In the afternoon we traveled eight and three quarters miles over the most mountainous road on our way and then descended into the valley and camped for the night on Labent Creek where there was an abundance of timber, water, and good grass.
"Brother John Higbee went forward hunting, and saw the Missouri companies of emigrants, and when they started out they had much strife one with another in trying to start first. They did not stop to milk their cows; and in clearing up their breakfast, they strewed their meal, salt, bacon, short cake, beans, and other things upon the ground throughout their encampment; and when we came up, three wolves were feeding upon the fragments.
"In coming over the hills to-day, we found it so cold it pierced us like winter. On reaching the valley, we found fires the companies in advance had built and we piled on the wood and soon got warm. An antelope lay before us which the hunters had brought in. We carved it up with our knives, forked it on sticks, roasted it, and satisfied ourselves without the seasoning of salt.
"We started in the morning at 5 o'clock into better feed a mile farther on and we turned out our teams. The brethren did some trading with the hunters who camped near us. At 7 o'clock, fifteen of our wagons were formed into a company to go forward to make a boat to ferry the Platte. They went forward and we followed them. The traders started at the same time.
"Soon another party of traders who were direct from Sante Fe overtook us. They informed us that the Mormon Battalion was in California, that they went in January, and that Capt. Brown was in Sante Fe for money for the detachment and would come on to us as soon as possible.
"In the afternoon of the next day, President Young and Brother Kimball rode with us. Our detached company had not been heard of since last night when they camped with the fore-most company. We camped to-night, June 9th, at Deer Creek. We had good feed and our horses and cattle were gaining daily."
PIONEERS ENTER SALT LAKE VALLEY.
Ferrying the Missourians over the River.—Construction of Rafts—Obtaining Provisions.—Ten Men Left at the Ferry.—Independence Rock.—Devil's Gate.—175 Miles from Fort Laramie.—South Pass.—Meet Major Harris, and Mr. Bridger.—Cross Green River.—Meet Samuel Brannon.—Independence Day.—Meet a Detachment of the Battalion.—Fort Bridger.—Report of the Missouri Company That Perished.—Reach Salt Lake Valley, July 24, 1847.
"On June 10th, I examined a splendid grinding stone quarry on the east side of the road as it leaves the hills and strikes the Platte, and Brother Carrington found a very excellent coal bed on Deer Creek. The specimens produced were good.
"At the blowing of the horn at night, I did not feel much like retiring to bed, so walked half a mile from the camp on the bank of Deer Creek and found Brother William Clayton fishing with a hook. He had caught two dozen good fish. They resembled the eastern herring. Another brother had also caught some. As they were leaving they left their lines for me.
"I sat down for half an hour musing alone as unconcerned as though I had been on the banks of Farmington River in my native place, when suddenly I heard a rustling in the bushes near me, and for the first time the thought flashed across me that I was in a country abounding with the grizzly bear, wolves, and Indians, and was liable to an attack at any moment from any one of them. I was away from my company and had no weapon to defend myself, even against a badger. I thought it wisdom to return to camp, and picking up my fishing rods, I walked leisurely home and retired to rest.
"Next day we rode our horses into the river several times during our journey to find a fording place, but could not find one. Our detached company was reported at the ferry ten miles or so above us. Our hunters brought in thirteen antelopes and the Missouri company killed three buffaloes.
"I started on the following morning to go forward in company with Brother A. P. Rockwood, who was riding PresidentYoung's steed, which unexpectedly sprang upon my horse, but instead of striking him, he took my knee into his jaw and bruised me considerably, sinking one tooth to the bone through three thicknesses of clothing and one of them buckskin.
"George A. Smith and myself then rode on to the ferrying place and found our detachment ferrying over the Missouri company who paid the brethren $1.50 for each wagon and load, and paid in flour at $2.50 per cwt., while flour through this country was worth at least $10.00 per cwt.
"It was very difficult to get over the river. They carried the goods over in a boat, but drew the wagons over with ropes by hand; and when the current would strike them, they would frequently roll over several times in the water, and they were likely to drown some of the horses. One of the men would have been lost had not the brethren picked him up with the boat. On the road the Missouri company had a stampede of their teams, turning over their wagons, bruising women and children and smashing their things. One ran into the river and would probably have drowned and lost all, had not a little boy jumped out beside the off ox, which gave him a fright and he 'sided off' and ran upon a sand bank, dragging the others after him. The boy was knocked into the water and hurt, but the scene ended without any loss of life.
"Our blacksmiths have been working for the Missouri company for which they get flour, money, etc., and our hunters have been busily engaged. They had killed five fat buffaloes, one old she bear and three cubs and shot at two grizzly bears, but did not get them. Those killed were black bears. Our hunters also brought into camp eight antelopes.
"Sunday, the 13th of June, was a very warm day, and the camp met for prayer meeting at 9 o'clock, and at 10 we had a regular meeting. President Kimball first addressed the meeting and was followed by President Young, who remarked upon the great difference between us as a camp and the Missouri companies who were traveling the same road. He said, 'They curse, swear, rip, and tear, and are trying to swallow up the earth; but though they do not wish us to have a place on it, the earth will soon open and swallow them up and they will go to the land of forgetfulness;while the Saints, if faithful, though they suffer some privations here, will ultimately inherit the earth and increase in power, dominion, and glory.'
"He spoke much to our edification, and was followed by Elder O. Pratt, after which the meeting was dismissed. The Twelve, colonels, captains, etc., of the camp then met at President Young's wagon and consulted about the measures to be adopted to get across the river. It was finally agreed to go immediately to the mountains with wagons and teams, and for every two tens to get poles and lash two or four wagons abreast to keep them from turning over and float them across the river with boats and ropes. So a company of horsemen started for the mountains with teams to draw the poles.
"In the evening the flour, meal, and bacon which had been earned from the Missouri company for ferrying them over were distributed through the camp equally. It amounted to five and one-half pounds of flour, two pounds of meal and a small piece of bacon for each individual in the camp. It looked as much of a miracle to me to see our flour and meal bags replenished in the midst of the Black Hills as it did to have the Children of Israel fed with manna in the wilderness; but the Lord had been truly with us on our journey and wonderfully preserved and blessed us.
"At daylight the next morning the first two tens were called together to make arrangements for crossing. Some of our party did not like the mode proposed of lashing wagons together, as the current was so strong, so we appointed Brother Grover as our captain to direct the rafting and concluded to put our poles into a raft and carry our goods over in a boat and ford our wagons on the raft.
"We commenced at 5 o'clock in the morning and in four hours we had landed eleven wagons of goods upon the north shore with our little leather boat, and during the day we got over all the wagons belonging to our tens, there being eleven wagons in all.
"The rest of the encampment—being twelve tens—got over only the same number of wagons as ourselves. They floated their wagons by tying from two to four together, but the wagons turned clear over each other, bottom side up and back again, breakingthe bows, covers, and boxes to pieces, and losing ploughs, axes, and iron that were left in the boxes.
"Most of our company were in the water from morning till night, and all were very weary when the work was done.
"Just as we had drawn Dr. Richards' two wagons to the shore and loaded his goods into them, a storm struck us. I sprang into my carriage, tied all down very tight and applied my whole strength in holding my wagon cover on, but the rain, wind, and hail beat so heavily that it was a task, and my bed and things were nearly drenched. It lasted only seven minutes, but was severe on our wagons and goods, and our horses ran two or three miles in the storm. I crossed the river, went after them, tied them up, and returned weary, but had some pleasant dreams that night.
"I felt unwell next day from the exposures of the day before. My teeth ached. I had suffered much from them on my pioneer journey. It was quite windy and our companies crossed the river very slowly. Another Missouri company came up with us.
"President Young thought it wisdom to leave a number of the brethren here until our companies which were expected to follow us should come up. Those who remained were to keep a ferry for the emigrants on the road not of our people. Such immigrants were to pay $1.50 per wagon in flour at $2.00 per cwt., and in cows at $10.00 each.
"The brethren made two new rafts on the third day of our fording the river and got quite a number of our pioneer wagons over. I was still unwell, but in company with Orson Pratt, I went on to some of the bluffs to view the country, and shot an antelope. This was the first antelope I ever killed.
"We had some strong wind and heavy rain, and in the evening many of us went over the river and tied up our horses. When one company was returning in the leather boat, it half filled with water, and they came nearly sinking.
"Early on the following morning, we swam our horses over, and one mule was nearly drowned by being tangled in a rope, but the current carried him ashore.
"The day before, twenty men went down the river to dig out two large canoes to cover over and make a ferry boat. The emigrantswere arriving daily at our fording place, and they reported one thousand wagons between here and Laramie. This was the 5th day spent in ferrying our pioneer company across the river, but now we had succeeded in getting all over, and we once more formed our wagons into a circle. Our brethren helped some of the Missourians to cross, and ran their boat all night in ferrying them over.
"Next day while we were still ferrying them over another large company arrived. We gathered our cattle at 10 o'clock and harnessed our horses, but did not start, as all were not ready, so we turned our teams out again.
"In the afternoon we held a council and resolved to leave nine men to conduct the ferry and to ford emigrant companies and also our own brethren who should come after us. The men were chosen and we met with them again in the evening.
"President Young rebuked one who had asked to stay, but who later wished to continue on with us. He also instructed the brethren who were to tarry to keep together and divide their means accumulated equally according to their labor, for each to esteem his brother as himself, in no wise to retain that which belonged to the traveler, to be careful of the lives and property of those they ferried, not to forget their prayers, and to come up after us with the next company of Saints.
"The men to remain at the ferry were Thomas Grover, captain; John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, William Empy, Edmund Elsworth, Benjamin F. Stewart, Francis Pomeroy, James Davenport, and Appleton Harmon.
"After seven days we continued our journey, traveled during the day twenty and one-half miles, and had the most wretched camping ground at night we had found on the way. President Young thought it might properly be called 'Hell Gate.' The country abounded with alkali and the water was extremely nauseating. Our horses and cattle, being thirsty, drank some and left it. Some of the cattle got badly mired in the marshes. Our hunters brought in one buffalo, one deer, and three antelopes.
"Early on Sunday morning, the 20th, we hitched up without feed or water and left our encampment of death, poison waters, and alkaline marshes and drove three miles to a good campingground and sweet water. This was on the Willow Spring branch, about three miles from the head.
"We halted two hours and took breakfast. President Young wished me to go on about fifteen miles and look up a camping ground for the night. So I went forward with George A. Smith to the head of the Willow Spring. Here he stopped with a doctor of a Missouri company, who had been attending a sick family, to wait for our wagons to come up, and I rode on alone. After traveling alone several miles, Brother John Brown came up, and we rode on together over a sandy, barren, sage country to a creek of good water about ten miles west of the Willow Spring. We arrived here at half past 1 o'clock, and turned our horses out to graze.
"Here we tarried till four o'clock and watched for our wagons to come in sight, but we could see none. At length two horsemen were seen approaching and we waved a small flag for them to come to us, supposing they were of our company, but they turned out to be two hunters of the Missouri company, carrying in buffalo meat to their camp. In the distance they thought we were Indians and made off.
"I mounted my horse and put after them and soon overtook them and made inquiries concerning our company. They said they had not seen it, but had seen about a dozen wagons coming by themselves.
"I then concluded that our camp had stopped at the Willow Spring. Captain Smith, who was of the Missouri company, invited us to go on and camp with them for the night, as they did not expect to go more than a few miles farther than the creek we were then on. We could see five miles on the road back, and no wagons were in sight; and as it was now five o'clock, I concluded our company would not come on, and if they did, they would come no farther than the creek.
"We accepted Captain Smith's proposal, and went on with him to spend the night in his camp; but instead of journeying only a miles or so, he continued on mile after mile, finding neither feed nor water, excepting salt and alkaline ponds until we struck the Sweet Water at Independence Rock, so noted already in Fremont'sjournal, and by other travelers. This was twelve miles from the creek before spoken of.
"The Sweet Waters were sweet indeed, both to man and beast, after traveling through so much alkali country, and there was good feed for the stock.
"After a good supper of bacon, buffalo meat, corn bread, coffee, milk, etc., I lay down in the tent with the Missourians, but did not rest well. I found that there was a great difference between these Missouri emigrants and our own, where there was no such thing as cursing, swearing, quarreling, contending with other companies, etc., allowed or practiced.
"But to return to our pioneer company. At a late hour they came up to the creek which we had left twelve miles back, and grass being poor continued on four miles west of the creek, and camped for the night. Not finding me at the creek, nor hearing from me at all, they felt somewhat alarmed lest I was lost, or had got into trouble with the Indians. They blew the bugle and watched for me till midnight, and finally fired the cannon, while I was camped ten miles from them, not thinking that I was giving them any trouble. I traveled this day a distance of thirty miles and our pioneer company twenty.
"I arose early this morning, June 21, took breakfast, and in company with Brother Brown rode around Independence Rock. We examined the many names and lists of names of the trappers, traders, travelers, and emigrants, nearly all in black, red, and yellow paint. Some had been washed out or otherwise defaced. The greatest number was put on during recent years, but we found some of thirty years standing. Nearly all the companies who pass put their names on it.
"After going around and examining it, we staked our horses and mounted it. I went forward and gained the high point on the south end of the Rock which contains the names. I then went to the north end, which is the highest point of Independence Rock. There is an opening or cavern that would contain thirty or forty persons and a rock standing upon the highest peak of about three tons weight.
"Upon this rock we climbed to the highest point and offered up our prayers according to the order of the priesthood, prayingearnestly for the blessing of God to rest upon President Young and his brethren the Twelve and all the Pioneer Camp, the whole Camp and House of Israel in the wilderness, our wives, children, and relatives, the Mormon Battalion, and the churches abroad. While offering up our prayers the spirit of the Lord descended upon us. I was the first Latter-day Saint on Independence Rock.
"We had a view of our camp from the rock, and expected they would noon there, so we mounted our horses and concluded to examine the country around. We rode five miles to the northeast, went on the top of the high bluff and saw our camp in motion. We then rode to the foot of the mountain and traced the way to the Devil's Gate, through which the Sweet Water runs. Here we spent but a few moments, and then hurried back to Independence Rock. As our camp had come up, before we could get to them, and camped half a mile east of it, I saw President Young going up to Independence Rock, and I related to him my travels since I left the company. He asked me to go back with him, so I turned out my horse, having ridden him twenty miles during the forenoon, and returned with President Young, Willard Richards, George A. Smith, and others. We spent half an hour on the Rock and then returned to our camp, mounted our horses and rode to the Devil's Gate, five miles from Independence Rock. We rode as far as we could into the Gate, hitched our horses, and walked into about the centre of the cavern.
"The Devil's Gate is about four hundred feet high, one hundred and twenty feet wide, and fifty rods long, and the water rushes through it with a roar. The rocks are coarse, gray granite with a vein of black trap rock running through them. We spent about half an hour here, and then had to back our horses out, after which we rode around it on the south side. Some of the footmen walked over the top of it. We camped for the night about one mile west of the Devil's Gate, on the bank of the Sweet Water.
"A guide board was put up at Devil's Gate, stating that it was one hundred and seventy-five and one-fourth miles from Fort Laramie, and fifty and one-fourth from our ferry on the Platte River.
"Two more Missouri companies overtook us at noon on our next day's travel, and they informed us that a man was drownedat the ferry, after we left, in trying to swim his horses, and that his body had not been found.
"The camp started on again after our company had nooned; but Brothers Young, Little, Benson, and myself went back to meet Lorenzo Young, who had broken an axletree of his wagon, and we were behind all the afternoon.
"After a journey of twenty and three-fourths miles, the pioneers camped at night at the foot of a mound about two-hundred feet high, on the bank of Sweet Water. Brother Kimball and myself went to the top of it and looked down upon the camp, and it appeared to us delightful. We offered up our prayers and the spirit of the Lord rested upon us, and then we descended to the camp. The moon was shining beautifully. On the 24th the best horse in camp, President Young's, was shot by accident.
"On the evening of the 26th of June, after a travel of eighteen and three-fourths miles, we camped opposite the Table Rock and near the summit of the South Pass. I was quite astonished at the road and country to-day, considering we were crossing at the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains. It was the best road we had traveled over for many days, and had it not been for the Wind River range of mountains in full view on our right covered with eternal snow, and some snow banks ten feet deep by the side of the road as we passed along, with the Table Rock on the left, I should almost have thought myself traveling over the beautiful prairies of Illinois and Missouri, except that the country was covered with more sage than prairie grass. The road for many miles, and also the plain of beautiful grass lying north of the Table Rock, were strewn with very handsome cornelian stones. I saw more in one hour this evening than ever before during my whole life, either in the rude state or polished, in all the jewelers' shops I ever saw in my travels.
"Elders Kimball, Pratt, G. A. Smith, and Brown had gone on to take observation on the dividing ridge. They continued on to the Green River, seven miles from us, which runs into the Pacific, while we were on the Sweet Waters, that run in an easterly direction. They supposed that we would come on to them, and as they did not return, several of us mounted our horses to go in search of them, but we soon met Brother Kimball returning, andhe informed us that the rest of the brethren would camp on the Green River with some men from Oregon on their way to the States.
"June 27th, 1847, was the third anniversary of the martyrdom of Joseph and Hyrum Smith.
"It was Sunday morning, but we harnessed up our teams and drove to where Brothers Pratt and Smith had camped with Major Harris, who had been traveling through Oregon and California for twenty-five years, and had a wide acquaintance with the country. He brought a file of Oregon papers and one published by S. Brannon of California. We had a great deal of conversation with him. He spoke unfavorably of the Salt Lake country for a settlement, but spoke of other places not far off that were good.
"We parted with Major Harris next day, after doing some trading with him, and in our afternoon's travel met Mr. Bridger of the Fort on the way with men going to Fort Laramie. He was expecting us and wished to have an interview with President Young and the Twelve. We also wished to have an interview with him. We immediately returned to the Creek upon which we had nooned and camped for the night, and Mr. Bridger and his men camped with us.
"We met in council with Mr. Bridger, and spent some hours in conversation, and found him to be a great traveler, possessing an extensive knowledge of nearly all Oregon and California, the mountains, lakes, rivers, springs, valleys, mines, ore, etc. He spoke more highly of the Great Basin for a settlement than Major Harris had done. He said it was his paradise and that if this people settled in it he would settle with them; and that there was but one thing that could operate against its becoming a great grain country, and that would be frost, as he did not know but the frost might affect the corn. He conversed with us about a great variety of subjects connected with the country; said he was ashamed of the maps of Fremont, who knew nothing about the country, only the plain traveled road, and that he could correct all the maps published of the western world.
"We parted next day from Mr. Bridger who remarked that it would not be prudent to bring a great population to the Basin until we ascertained whether grain would grow or not. O. P.Rockwell and myself went forward to pick out a camping ground. We traveled fifteen miles from where we nooned before we could get grass, and this made the longest day's journey on the whole route, making twenty-three and three-fourths miles.
"We traveled three miles on the last day of June, and camped on the bank of the Green River at the ferry. The afternoon was spent in building a raft, as the river was high and could only be crossed upon rafts or boats.
"During the afternoon, the arrival of Elder Samuel S. Brannon from the bay of San Francisco was announced in camp, and we were glad to meet with him, and to hear from the Saints who went with him. He gave us an account of their landing, their travels, and present settlement, which was two hundred miles up the river from the bay. They were putting in wheat and building up their place.
"During the following three days we were fording Green River. On the afternoon of the second, the Twelve held a council and four men were appointed to return and meet the Camp of Israel and pilot them. We each wrote our wives concerning the counsel to be given the camp. I wrote letters next day to my father, A. O. Smoot, and John Benbow, to be taken back by the pilots. The ferrying was finished on the evening of the third day and we moved on three miles and camped.
"The Fourth of July came on Sunday. I accompanied President Young, Brothers Kimball, Richards, and others with the pilots to the ferry to put them across; and when we arrived at the river we saw thirteen horsemen on the opposite bank with their baggage on one of our rafts. To our great joy, who should they be but our brethren of the Mormon Battalion belonging to Captain Brown's detachment, who had been at Pueblo during the winter. Amasa Lyman, whom we had sent to them, had reached them with information of our movements and the whole detachment of one hundred and forty of the brethren were within seven days' drive of us.
"When we met these brethren there was truly a hearty greeting and shaking of hands. We put them all over the river excepting one who returned with our pilots to meet the following companies of the Saints. This small detachment of the Battalion hadabout a dozen of their horses stolen by some horse thieves, but they overtook them and got them all back but two which had gone on to Bridger.
"We left Green River (the headwaters of the Colorado) on the 5th, drove twenty miles, and camped on Black's Fork. There was neither feed nor water between this place and Green River, but similar to the last two hundred miles, a sandy desert covered with sage brush.
"Next evening we camped on the west side of Ham's Fork, which we crossed on the following day and drove to Fort Bridger. In the region of the Fort, before we got on to our camping ground, we crossed more than a dozen trout brooks, the water running swiftly but clear, with hard, gravelly bottoms, and the whole region of country up and down these streams was covered with grass knee deep.
"The brethren caught several brook trout which was the first I had seen since I left England, and as we were to spend the next day at the Fort, I calculated on a day of fishing. As soon as I had my breakfast next morning, I rigged up my fishing rod that I had brought with me from Liverpool, fixed my reel line and artificial fly, and went to one of the brooks close by to try my luck.
"The men at the Fort said that there were but few trout in the streams, and a good many of the brethren were already at the creeks with their rods trying their skill, baiting with fresh meat and grasshoppers, but no one was catching any.
"I threw my fly into the water, and it being the first time that I ever tried the artificial fly in America or ever saw it tried, I watched it as it floated upon the water with as much interest as Franklin did his kite when he was experimenting in drawing lightning from the sky; and as he received great joy when he saw the electricity descend on his kite string, so was I highly gratified when I saw the nimble trout dart at my fly hook, and run away with the line. I soon worried him out and drew him to shore.
"I fished two or three hours during the morning and evening and caught twelve in all. One half of them would weigh three-fourths of a pound each, while all the rest of the camp did notcatch three pounds in all, which was taken as proof that the artificial fly is far the best to fish with.
"In the afternoon I went to Bridger's house and traded off my flint-lock rifle for four buffalo robes which were large, nice, and well dressed. I found things generally at least one-third higher than I had ever known them at any other trading post I ever saw in America.
"I arose in the morning quite unwell and felt threatened with the mountain fever, yet I mounted my horse and rode till ten o'clock; but before I started I was called upon to administer to Brother Carter, who was taken with the fever. There were new cases of the mountain fever every day in camp. At ten o'clock I had to give up and take to my bed in the wagon with distressing pain in my head, back, joint bones, marrow and all through my system, attended with cold chills and hot flashes through the body. We traveled over thirteen miles of as bad road as any we had on our journey, which made it exceedingly painful to the sick. The day seemed very long to me. When we stopped at night, I took composition, cayenne, and a dose of vegetable pills, had a better night than I expected; and though I was feeble in the morning, I felt that my fever was broken up and I was recovering.
"The night of the 10th we camped one and a half miles from Bear River, by the best stream of water we had found on the route, and a small stream near by a valley six miles long, grass knee deep, strong mineral springs, copper, lead, coal, and lime.
"Camp fires were discovered about three miles from our camping ground and George A. Smith and others went over to them and found them to be in the camp of a Mr. Miles Goodyear. He had settled at Salt Lake and had a garden and vegetables, he said, doing well. Several Missourians were with him going to the States.
"The subject was brought up concerning the emigrant company who had perished in the mountains last winter. They were mostly from Independence and Clay Counties, Missouri, and were a mob company that threatened to drive out the Mormons who were in California, and started with that spirit in their hearts. But it seemed as though they were ripe for judgment. The snowsfell upon them eighteen feet deep on a level, many died and others turned cannibal. About forty persons perished. They were mostly eaten up by those who survived them. Mrs. L. Murphy of Tennessee, whom I baptized while on a mission in that country, but since apostatized and joined the mob, was in that company and died, or was killed, and eaten. Her bones were sawed to pieces for her brains and marrow, and then left strewn upon the ground.
"We spent the Sunday in camp, but some of the brethren rode out to seek out the road and found a tar spring about fifteen miles south of our camp.
"Early Monday morning, I rode to Bear River, and for the first time I saw the long-looked-for Bear River Valley.
"The spot where we struck it was not very interesting. There was considerable grass in the valley and some timber and thick brushes on the bank of the river. My object in riding to the river before the camp was to try my luck in fishing for trout. After fishing for several hours, I started after the camp, having caught eight trout in all.
"The pioneers had traveled nine miles and nooned in a valley. I found President Young very sick with the fever. The company had started on, but President Young lay so sick that he concluded not to move from where he was. Brothers Kimball, Benson, Rockwood, and others stayed with him with their wagons.
"We drove without any road over hills and dales, having to make our road as we went along. We camped at night by the side of Reddings Cave. The valleys were beginning to grow more fertile and the air more pacific.
"I arose quite unwell in the morning. Several brethren went to meet President Young, and the camp lay still waiting for him to come up. Brother Kimball came at noon and a council of the whole camp was called, and it was resolved that Orson Pratt take a company of about twenty wagons and forty men and go on to the canyon and make a road as they went, so we would not be hindered when we came along. There were twenty-three wagons in all that started at 1 o'clock.
"We had found but little game for many days until yesterday, when the hunters brought in twelve antelopes, and ten today.
"President Young was better today, but decided not to move until to-morrow. In the afternoon I walked out with Elder Richards, in search of springs of water.
"Next morning I rode back seven miles to visit President Young and found him much better in health and quite cheerful. The evening before, Dr. Richards, myself, and George A. Smith went before the Lord and prayed for Brother Young, and we had a testimony that he would recover from that hour. I found Brother Rockwood the sickest man that had been in our company. I tarried until near night, assisting the sick, and then returned to our encampment.
"I started early on the morrow with my carriage and horses to go back for President Young and Brother Rockwood. I was two hours driving seven miles to their camp. I found them much better, and they thought they could ride, as my carriage was the easiest vehicle in our company. I made up a bed and took them both into my carriage, and the rest of the wagons started and drove to the main body. The sick seemed refreshed by their ride. After a short halt, the whole company drove four and a half miles and camped for the night.
"Next day I again took Brothers Young and Rockwood in my carriage and drove them during the day. We had bad roads for the sick, and Brother Brigham was worn out and worse at night. At night I went to Weber Fork, one mile from our encampment, and caught a trout for him.
"He was still sick in the morning, and after we had driven three miles on to the Weber's Fork, we camped the remainder of the day because President Young was worse. The Twelve and others went out and prayed for him and for the sick generally, according to the order of the priesthood.
"Sunday, the 18th, was spent holding meeting; and on the morrow morning, forty-one wagons went on. With them were Dr. Richards' and George A Smith's. Fifteen wagons remained with President Young. Two of mine were of the number.
"In company with Heber C. Kimball, E. T. Benson, and Howard Egan, I rode over the mountain called Pratt's Pass, with the company that went on, and then returned to President Young.
"Next morning we started early and stopped for breakfastafter a five-mile drive. I carried Brother Brigham in my carriage. The fever was still on him, but he stood the ride well.
"After breakfast we traveled ten miles over the worst road of the whole journey. Our camping ground at night was on a trout creek. Here we found three wagons that had tarried in consequence of the sick. Brothers Sherwood, Johnson, and Dewey were so sick they could not journey, and we camped with them and baptized them for their health, and I confirmed them. This morning Brother Pratt's company was only eight miles further on than where we camped at night.
"We remained in camp next day because of sickness. We were on East Canyon Creek, and the route we were taking was Reed's Pass, which we named Pratt's Pass, in consequence of his going on to make the road.
"Next day eight miles of our journey was made, and East Canyon Creek was reached. It was eight miles of the worst of roads, and Brother Case smashed one of his hind wheels. We had to wait two hours to bring his wagon up. The sick stood the journey better than we expected during the day, considering the bad road.
"We left East Canyon Creek on the 23rd and traveled to the west five miles up hill which brought us to the summit, and then descended the mountain six miles through a thick timber grove. The timbers had been cut out of the road, yet it was full of stumps and it kept each teamster very busy to dodge the stumps and not break his wagon. One man turned his wagon over and smashed the top all to pieces. There were two children in the wagon, but they were not hurt.
"We nooned at a beautiful spring in a small birch grove. There was more timber during this half day's travel than we had seen in a month, and the valleys, both ascending and descending, were extremely fertile and covered with vegetation to the tops of the hills.
"At the spring where we nooned we were met by Brothers Pack and Matthews from the forward camps. They brought us a letter informing us that it was only ten miles to the valley of the Great Salt Lake, or Great Basin, and fourteen to their camp. They had explored the country as far as possible and made choice of aspot to put in crops. After nooning we traveled up another very tedious hill and down into a valley and camped for the night.
"This, the 24th day of July, 1847, was an important day in the history of my life, and in the history of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. After traveling from our encampment six miles through the deep ravine valley ending with the canyon, we came in full view of the valley of the Great Salt Lake, or the Great Basin—the Land of Promise, held in reserve by the hand of God as a resting place for the Saints.
"We gazed with wonder and admiration upon the vast fertile valley spread out before us for about twenty-five miles in length and sixteen miles in width, clothed with a heavy garment of vegetation, and in the midst of which glistened the waters of the Great Salt Lake, with mountains all around towering to the skies, and streams, rivulets and creeks of pure water running through the beautiful valley.
"After a hard journey from Winter Quarters of more than one thousand miles, through flats of the Platte River and plateaus of the Black Hills and Rocky Mountains and over the burning sands, and eternal sage regions, willow swails and rocky regions, to gaze upon a valley of such vast extent surrounded with a perfect chain of everlasting mountains covered with eternal snow, with their innumerable peaks like pyramids towering towards heaven, presented at one view to us the grandest scenery and prospect that we could have obtained on earth. Thoughts of pleasant meditation ran in rapid succession through our minds at the anticipation that not many years hence the House of God would be established in the mountains and exalted above the hills, while the valleys would be converted into orchards, vineyards, fields, etc., planted with cities, and the standard of Zion be unfurled, unto which the nations would gather.