Morning cloudy with strong northeast wind. The brethren have resumed baptizing and a number have obeyed the ordinance both male and female. At ten o'clock, a meeting was held in the bowery and instructions given to the brethren. At two o'clock, sacrament was administered and 110 of the brethren selected to make adobes. Wrote a letter for Heber to Elder Martin and others.
At eleven o'clock, Brannan, Captain James Brown and several others started for San Francisco. Elder J. C. Little accompanies them to Fort Hall. I spent three hours taking observations with the barometer with Elder Pratt to ascertain the height of the land on the creek above the city. Ensign Peak, etc. The twelve had decided on a name for this place and a caption for all letters and documents issued from this place, which is as follows: Salt Lake City, Great Basin, North America.
This morning, President Young and Kimball have gone to the adobe yard to commence building some houses in that region. They have already got many good logs on the ground. Colonel Markham reports that in addition to the plowing done week before last, they have plowed about thirty acres which is mostly planted, making a total of about eighty acres. The plowing ceased last week and the brethren are now making adobes, hauling logs, etc. Elder Sherwood continues surveying the city. Tanner and Frost are setting wagon tires and have set fifty-two today. The brethren who went to the lake on Monday to boil down salt have returned this evening and report that they have found a bed of beautiful salt ready to load into wagons. It lies between two sand bars and is about six inches thick. They suppose they can easily load ten wagons without boiling. I have received from Elder Kimball a pair of buckskin pants, as a present I suppose, but as I have on similar occasions been branded with the idea of receiving a great many kindnesses without consideration, I will for this once state a little particular on the other side the question. I acknowledge that I have had the privilege of riding in a wagon and sleeping in it, of having my victuals cooked and some meat and milk, and occasionally a little tea or coffee furnished. My flour I furnished myself. I have had no team to take care of. Howard Egan has done most of my washing until a month ago in consideration of the privilege of copying from my journal, using my desk, ink, etc. The balance of my washing I have hired. Now what have I done for Brother Kimball? Am I justly indebted on this journey? Answer: I have written in his journal 124 pages of close matter on an average of 600 words to a page, which if paid at the price of recording deeds in Illinois would amount to over $110.00. I have collected the matter myself, besides writing letters, etc. This has been for his special benefit. I have kept an account of the distance we have traveled for over 800 miles of the journey, attended to the measurement of the road, kept the distances from creek to creek and from one encampment to another; put up a guide board every ten miles from Fort John to this place with the assistance of Philo Johnson. I have mapped some for Dr. Richards and keeping my own journal forms the whole benefit to be derived by my family by this mission. I have yet considerable to write in Elder Kimball's journal before I return. I am expected to keep a table of distances of the whole route returning from here to Winter Quarters and make a map when I get through, and this for public benefit. Now how much am I considered to be in debt, and how often will it be said that I was furnished by others with victuals, clothing, etc., that I might enjoy this journey as a mission of pleasure. I have spent most of this day calculating the height of this spot above the level of the sea for Elder Pratt.
Early this morning, a large company of the Utah Indians came to visit the camp and it was with difficulty they could be kept outside the wagons. There are few of them who have any clothing on except the breech clout and are mostly of low stature. They have scarcely anything to trade and not many women and children with them. They are camped about three miles north of west and supposed to be going north hunting. One of them was detected stealing some clothing which lay on the bushes to dry, but was made to leave it. When they found they were not permitted inside the circle, they soon moved off to their camp. The brethren have commenced laying the adobe wall today which will be twenty-seven inches thick and nine feet high. The adobes are 18 inches long, 9 inches broad and 4½ inches thick. The brethren in camp have finished the skiff and launched her in the creek to soak. About five o'clock, a child of Therlkill's was found in the creek south of the camp drowned. Various efforts were made to restore it but unsuccessfully. The child was about three years old and its parents mourn the accident bitterly. The day has been very hot, but as usual, at sundown we have a strong, cool wind from the northeast.
Spent the forenoon with Elder Pratt in taking observations to ascertain the height of the temple block above the Utah outlet which he found to be sixty-five feet. The altitude one mile up the creek above the temple block is 214 feet and the altitude of the temple block above the level of the sea is 4,300 feet. The latitude 40° 45' 50". The blacksmiths are very busy shoeing oxen and there is prospect that the ox teams will start back on Monday or Tuesday. The soldiers are getting dissatisfied at being kept here so long from their families and yesterday several of them left the camp secretly to go to Winter Quarters and this morning others are gone, but it is probable that President Young knows nothing of it yet although about a dozen are already gone and others are preparing to follow them. On Tuesday President Young laid a foundation for four houses; Elder Kimball four, Colonel Markham one, Dr. Richards one, and Lorenzo Young two, and today Dr. Richards has laid the foundation of another, George A. Smith two and Wilford Woodruff two, making a total of seventeen houses mostly fourteen feet wide and from twelve to seventeen long. Elder Kimball has his house four logs high.
Spent the day mostly writing. The brethren have got 130 bushels of salt with twenty-four hours labor.
Started at 8:40 in company with a number of others for the Salt Lake. We arrived at three o'clock and estimated the distance twenty-two miles. We all bathed in it and found the reports of those who had previously bathed in no ways exaggerated. We returned back to the river where we arrived at eleven o'clock at the beginning of a light thunder shower. There is no pure fresh water between the river and the lake.
President Young preached on the death of little children, etc. Evening the company composing those who are returning with the ox teams met and voted that Shadrach Roundy and Tunis Rappleyee be captains. They received instructions to start tomorrow and travel leisurely to Grand Island and there wait for the last company of horse teams. J. C. Little and company returned yesterday from Utah Lake, and this morning the exploring company returned.
Spent most of the day fixing the roadometer, also finished marking the distances, camping places,, etc., on Dr. Richards' map from Devil's gate to Little Sandy. Evening took the wagon in company with Jackson Redding and Howard Egan to the warm spring to try the roadometer. We found the distance to be one and a half miles. Most of the company of ox teams have started today for Winter Quarters. They will go to the canyon and wait there till morning. After dark, Elder Kimball called a number of us together in the tent and each one present selected a lot for himself and family. I had previously selected lots 1, 7 and 8 on block 95, but President Young broke into our arrangements and wished 7 and 8 reserved, consequently I made choice of lots 1, 2 and 3 on block 95.
Started out at 8:10 and found the distance to the mouth of the canyon five miles, the difference arising from making a road across instead of following the first one. One and three quarters of a mile farther arrived at where the company had camped for the night and found them all ready to start, only waiting for President Young to arrive and give some instructions, but he sent word he should not come and we started forward. Elders Kimball and Richards soon overtook the company, gave some instructions, then returned and the company moved on. On arriving at Birch Spring, we encamped for the night, having traveled thirteen and a half miles. There is considerable danger of cattle miring near the spring and several have already had to be pulled out. This company consists of seventy-one men with thirty-three wagons. After camping, the brethren were called together by Captain Roundy for the purpose of organizing. He briefly stated the manner of the organization of the camp when we left Winter Quarters and it was unanimously voted to organize after the same pattern which was done as follows:
1st Ten
Joseph Skeen, CaptainWm. BurtArtemas JohnsonJames DunnJames CazierJoseph ShipleyGeo. CummingsSamuel BadhamThos. RichardsonRoswell Stevens
2nd Ten
Zebedee Coltrin, CaptainWm. BirdChester LovelandJosiah CurtisLorenzo BabcockJohn S. EldridgeSamuel H. MarbleHorace ThorntonGeo. Scholes
3rd Ten
Francis Boggs, CaptainGeo. WardleSylvester H. EarlSeeley OwensAlmon M. WilliamsClark Stillman
Tunis Rappleyee, Captain of 1st Division. James Cazier Captain of Guard in 1st Division.
1st Ten
Jackson Redding, CaptainRobert BiardWm. CarpenterBenj. W. RolfeHenry W. SandersonThos. ClowardBailey JacobsLisbon LambJohn PackWm. Clayton
2nd Ten
John H. Tippets, CaptainLyman StevensFrancis T. WhitneyLyman CurtisJames StewartJohn S. GleasonChas. A. BurkeMyron TannerWm. McLellanRufus AllenNorman Taylor
3rd Ten
Allen Cumpton, CaptainFranklin AllenJohn BybeeDavid GarnerJ. AverettHarmon D. PersonsJohn G. SmithSolomon TindalPhilip GarnerChas. HopkinsBarnabas Lake
4th Ten
Andrew J. Shoop, CaptainAlbert ClarkFrancillo DurfeeJames HendricksonErastus BinghamJohn CalvertLoren KenneyDaniel MillerBenj. RobertsLuther W. GlazierJarvis JohnsonThos. Bingham
Shadrack Roundy, Captain of 2nd Division. John Gleason, Captain of Guard.
The soldiers were numbered with the 2nd Division, 3rd and 4th tens.
Those who have horses to ride were then numbered and their duty pointed out, which is to lead the way and fix the road where it needs it; look out camping places; drive the loose cattle and hunt for the camp. Their names are as follows: John Pack, Captain, Samuel Badham, Francillo Durfee, Benj. Roberts, Thomas Bingham, James Hendrickson, John Eldridge, R. I. Redding, Seeley Owens, Barnabas Lake, Wm. Bird, Daniel Miller, James Cazier.
We had a little rain this morning and the air very cool. We started at 8:00 a.m. and found the road rough indeed. When ascending the mountain from Brown's Creek, most of the teams had to double, it generally requiring six yoke of oxen to bring up an empty wagon. The descent is also very rough and especially where the road crosses the dry creek which is a great many times. Canyon Creek appeared rougher than when we first went up it and it took till near night to get to the end of the creek, having traveled only fifteen and three quarters miles during the day.
We got started again about 8:00 a.m., all except Chas. A. Burke. One of his oxen was missing. Before noon several of the loose cattle gave out through being over driven. We arrived and camped on Red Mountain Creek at six o'clock, having traveled sixteen and a quarter miles. The day has been very hot but nights are very cold.
Morning very cold. Started out at seven and traveled till 12:30, the day being cool, then rested and baited an hour. At 1:30 proceeded again and arrived at Cache or Reddings Cave at 5:00 p.m., having traveled twenty and a half miles, but it was nearly seven o'clock before the company arrived.
Started at 7:30 a.m. and traveled till 12:00 then baited an hour. We found Bear River not over fifteen inches deep. We camped on Sulphur Creek at five o'clock having traveled sixteen and a half miles and after camping I went with the brethren to fill their tar buckets at the oil spring. We followed a wagon trail made by a part of Hasting's company last year about a mile and found the spring situated in a ravine a little to the left of the road just at the edge of a high bench of land. The ground is black over with the oil for several rods but it is baked hard by exposure to the sun. It is difficult to get the clear oil, most of it being filled with dust and gravel. It smells much like British oil and is said to do well for greasing wagons. John Gleason has found a coal bed in the edge of the mountain across the creek. The coal looks good and burns freely.
Many of the cattle were missing this morning but after much search were found about four miles southwest from camp. We started at nine o'clock and traveled till one, then halted an hour at the copperas spring. Most of the wagons halted at the spring four miles back. The water of this spring is not bad, cattle drink it freely. At two o'clock we began to ascend the ridge and at five formed our camp near the Muddy fork having traveled seventeen and three quarters miles, the day cool and cloudy.
We started early this morning and arrived at Fort Bridger at one o'clock. We found the grass pretty much eaten off and only stayed an hour and a half while some of the brethren traded some, then went on eight miles farther and camped on a stream two rods wide, having traveled twenty-one and a half miles, the day very cool.
This morning many of the cattle had strayed several miles from camp which prevented our starting till eight o'clock. We traveled eight and a half miles, then halted an hour on Black's Fork. We proceeded again and had a pretty heavy thunder shower and arrived at Ham's Fork at 5:20, then camped for the night, having traveled twenty-three miles. Most of the wagons did not arrive till nearly night, but we had no place to camp short of this and here we have good range for cattle.
We traveled today twenty-three miles and camped on Green River. We found several places where the road is shortened some, but it is yet about sixteen miles from water to water.
Started at eight o'clock and went on to the Big Sandy and before the majority of the company arrived, E. T. Benson and escort came up with letters from the companies. They say there are nine companies between here and the Platte with 566 wagons and about 5,000 head of stock. They report the companies well and getting along tolerably fast, some they expect we shall meet within three days. After eating they proceeded on. After sundown a large party of mounted Indians came up, and camped on the opposite side the river. They have been on the Sweet Water hunting and are said to be of the Shoshone tribe.
Many of the brethren traded sugar, powder, lead, etc., to the Indians for robes and skins and meat. We started soon after seven and traveled to the crossing of the Big Sandy. Then after halting an hour, continued to the Little Sandy, making twenty-five and a quarter miles today, but it was nine o'clock before some of the wagons arrived. The feed is mostly eaten up on the creeks near the road and there is none except on the banks of streams. Bailey Jacobs killed a large antelope which is a matter of rejoicing as we are nearly out of bread stuff and had little meat for several days. We started back from the valley with 8 lbs. of flour, 9 lbs. of meal and a few beans each, and we have to depend on getting meat on the road for the rest. I was told there were 25 lbs. of flour put up for me, but I find it is not so.
Started at eight o'clock and traveled till half past three before halting when we arrived at the crossing of the Pacific creek and halted to camp for the night having traveled twenty-three miles. There is no grass from Little Sandy to this place except a very little on Dry Sandy but the water there has some taste of alkali and teams do not like it. Here there is considerable grass along the creek and very good water but no wood except wild sage. We had a heavy thunder shower about four o'clock and considerable hail. It was dark before the ox teams arrived. Some of the men had killed a buffalo a few miles back, but it is very poor.
It was decided to remain here today to rest the teams, but our ten obtained leave to go on to Sweet Water, expecting to meet the company, and after reading the letter of instructions from the council to this camp, my wagon proceeded on slowly. At the Springs, we saw an aged Indian squaw near the road dwelling in a shelter composed merely of wild sage and apparently dependent on passing emigrants for subsistence. She is doubtless left to perish on account of age and infirmity, but it is likely she will live some time on what she receives from those who pass by. When we arrived near the summit of the dividing ridge or south pass, two Indians rode towards us and motioned for us to stop. Not seeing the other wagons coming after, we stopped to wait for the wagons and the Indians soon arrived. They made signs that a large party of them were over the mountain north and they wanted to "swap." While they were conversing a number more rode over the ridge and soon after a still larger number. About this time the wagons came in sight and when the brethren saw so many Indians they were alarmed. John Pack rode back to the main camp to get some of the brethren to come up, but J. R. said he would not budge a foot. The brethren behind were much alarmed, some expecting to be scalped and one W. Carr ran and hid himself in the sage bushes. No one returned with John Pack but Norman Taylor and the wagons proceeded towards us. In the meantime, after learning the object for which the Indians sought us, that none of them were armed except two, and by a certificate that the first visitor was a Shoshone chief, Brother Lamb and myself signified that we would trade with them and soon some of them returned with antelope, buck and elk skins and robes to trade. I traded some balls and a little powder for one robe, one elk skin, two buckskins and nine antelope skins and a pair of moccasins. Lamb bought five antelope skins. While we were trading, the other wagons arrived and also commenced trading. The Indians, about sixty in number, about twenty of them boys, all mounted, seemed highly pleased to trade with us which we did mostly through the chief. By request of the chief, I gave him a certificate stating that he appeared friendly and wanted to trade with the whites, etc. The chief gave us a very strong invitation to go to their camp to trade and made signs that they would feed us well and we should sleep with them. I answered him by signs that we should camp when we arrived where the road crossed the Sweet Water but they were very anxious to have us then turn off the road and camp. After we started, the chief came up and wanted to swap a good mule for my spy glass but I refused. I had let him look through it and he seemed very wishful to try it. When they saw we were determined to go on, they left us and returned to their camp while we pursued our journey to the first crossing of Sweet Water where we arrived and camped at six o'clock, having traveled fourteen miles.
This morning the cattle belonging to the camp behind came to us early, having strayed away. John Pack and Bailey Jacobs went to drive them back and to trade some with the Indians. We calculated to go on about eleven miles but before we started, Father Eldridge came up with his wagon and said he expected Spencer's 1st 50 company up soon. We then concluded to stay here until they arrived and about three o'clock, their wagons began to cross the creek. I was glad to find Aaron and Loren Farr, and William Walker in this company with their families all well and in good spirits. From Sister Olivia, I received some articles sent by my family which were very acceptable indeed and made me feel grateful. This company all appear well and cheerful and are not much troubled on account of lack of teams. I spent the evening with Loren and their families. The balance of our camp arrived before dark.
Our camp except this ten has started on, but Brother Spencer has concluded to halt here today and I spent the day copying tables of distances for Loren and also gave him a plot of the city.
We bid farewell to Brother Spencer's company and proceeded on. After traveling about a mile, we met P. P. Pratt going to see Brother Spencer and to get some cattle. He says some of the back companies have lost many head and can scarcely move. A few miles farther we met the 2nd 50 of Spencer's company. We traveled till nearly dark and camped with the returning pioneers at the cold spring, having traveled twenty-two and a quarter miles. The day fine and pleasant. We find the grass pretty much eaten off all the way. John G. Smith was appointed captain of the 2nd division in place of Shadrach Roundy who returns.
Started about eight o'clock and after traveling two miles passed Russell's company of 50 and about five miles farther we passed Elder Rich's 50 and G. B. Wallace's 50. They all agree to the health and prosperity of their companies but have lost many cattle and have had hard work to get along. We passed Captains Foutz and Hone on this long drive with their companies all well, but complaining much for lack of teams. I conversed some with Edward Hunter and Elder Taylor. Brother Hunter will give cash for some cattle if he can buy them. We arrived on Sweet Water at six o'clock but the ox teams did not get in till eight o'clock, having traveled twenty-four and a half miles. The evening was very cold, windy and like for rain. Brother Roundy returned back to the valley this morning, having met his family.
We started on this morning following the new road at the north side of the Sweet Water, the road sandy in places but much better than the old road. After traveling about two miles, we saw a lone buffalo about two miles to the south. John Pack and Lisbon Lamb went to try to kill him and finally succeeded, on which our ten halted and sent back a wagon for the meat which detained us about three hours, after which we proceeded again. A little before the road fords the river the second time, there is an alkali lake a little north from the road. We joined the company and also met J. B. Noble's company where the road joins the old one again. Brother Noble's company are all well and not so bad off for teams as some of the other companies. We proceeded on a few miles farther and met J. M. Grant with Willard Snow's 50 which is the last company on the road. Brother Grant had a child die last night and his wife is yet very sick and not much expected to recover. This company have lost many cattle and are so bad off for teams as not to be able to travel more than ten miles a day which would make it some day in October before they get through. We went on nearly two miles farther, then camped for the night near Bitter Cottonwood creek, having traveled fifteen and three quarters miles. Most of the company camped back with Brother Snow's company.
We started late this morning and traveled over a very sandy road till five o'clock, then camped on Ravine Creek, having traveled sixteen miles.
There being alkali springs near, we concluded to go to Independence Rock at which place we arrived about three o'clock having traveled twelve and a half miles. Soon after we camped, Lamb and Jacob Cloward went to chase some buffalo and succeeded in killing one. I walked over the rock and had some solemn meditations and felt to humble myself and call upon the Lord for myself and family, for this company, the twelve and all the companies on the road. Experience has taught me many maxims of late and I intend to profit by them. Be not hasty to promise, lest thy promise be considered worthless. Make not many promises without reflection, lest thou fail to fulfill them and it dampen the confidence of thy friend. If thou promise many things and regard not to fulfill them and it damp the confidence of thy friend, then be assured that thy friends will despise thy promises and have no dependence in them. Seek not to speculate out of a good brother.
This morning the cattle were found down the Sweet Water about six miles from camp which made it late before we started. While passing the alkali lakes, a number of the brethren filled the bags with saleratus. We found the road very sandy to Greasewood Creek and after that it was somewhat better. About three o'clock the wind began to blow very strong and cold and we had heavy rain for about two hours.
We proceeded on and arrived at the Willow Spring a little before dark in the midst of a heavy shower of rain. Thomas Cloward left one of the old oxen sent back by Wallace on the road. It died before morning. All except our ten and William's stayed back at Greasewood Creek. We tried in vain to make a fire but finally went to bed wet and cold, having eaten nothing since morning. Some of the teamsters have only a light summer coat with them and they suffer considerably. We traveled twenty-one and a half miles today.
This morning our cattle were all missing and it still rains and snows very heavily. Pack and T. Cloward started early on foot to hunt the cattle but after following them over seven miles in the storm and seeing that they had kept on the road towards the Platte river, they returned to camp. It rained and snowed heavily till eleven o'clock at which time the balance of the camp arrived. John Pack asked the company to let us have some of their loose cattle to bring on our wagons till we overtook ours again, but the captains both generously refused for some cause or other. However, some of the brethren took their cattle out of their teams and let us have them and we moved onward. After traveling about thirteen miles we saw our cattle about four miles to the left of the road at the foot of a mountain. We halted and Lamb took one of the mules to fetch the cattle to the road. Soon after Pack and Jackson Redding came up and learning that we had found the cattle, they started to them to drive them to camp and Lamb being relieved, returned to the wagon. We harnessed up and arrived at the mineral spring about six o'clock, having traveled sixteen and a quarter miles. This spring has been represented as poisonous but if it is so, it must be in consequence of minerals under the water. The water has no bad taste till the cattle trample in it. It then becomes almost black as ink and this is probably what makes it poisonous.
We started at eight o'clock and arrived at the Upper Platte ferry soon after twelve o'clock. We found N. Jacobs and company there hunting. We forded the river and found it about two feet deep in the channel. We halted on the banks about two hours at which time the whole camp arrived. We then proceeded on. The main company went about five miles but we went till we found a good camping place in a grove of timber on the banks of the river where the road runs through, then halted for night, having traveled nineteen miles.
This morning Norton Jacob's company joined us at eight o'clock and we moved forward. Found the road rough, it being cut up by the other companies in wet weather. We arrived on Deer Creek about sundown and camped for the night, having traveled twenty-two and a quarter miles. The day fine and very pleasant. Joseph Hancock killed an elk which the brethren packed to camp on horseback about sixteen miles.
We have had a strong southwest wind all night and the morning is somewhat cool. We started a little before eight o'clock and had good traveling. We saw many herds of buffalo but the hunters did not get any while passing. We arrived at the river A La Perle at three o'clock and camped for the night having traveled seventeen and a half miles. A while before dark, some of the men came in with a part of a buffalo which they killed. Lewis Barney also killed a young one which was considerably fat. The meat was all packed in on horses. One of the men killed a wolf out of which we got considerable grease for the wagons. It was decided to have a guard each night the remainder of the journey, every man to stand in his turn, four each night.
Got up at twelve o'clock and stood guard till daylight. The morning very fine and pleasant. Three of the brethren arrived from the camp back and said that during the night before last the Indians had stolen sixteen or seventeen of their horses and they were in pursuit of them. We were detained some on account of several of the horses having rambled off, but about nine o'clock we started on and traveled to the La Bonte River, distance nineteen and a half miles. There are many buffalo around here also and although we have plenty of meat, the brethren continue to kill them. We find the feed eaten off bare almost every place we come to and it is difficult to find grass to sustain our teams.
We traveled this day seventeen and three quarters miles and camped by Heber's Spring on Horseshoe Creek. We found the spring had ceased running but there was water in the creek a little north. The roadometer has broken down today over the same ground it broke as we went west. Our bread stuff is now out and we have to live solely on meat the balance of the journey. John Pack has got flour enough to last him through. We have all messed together until ours was eaten, and now John Pack proposes for each man to mess by himself. He has concealed his flour and beans together with tea, coffee, sugar, etc., and cooks after the rest have gone to bed. Such things seem worthy of remembrance for a time to come.
We fixed the roadometer this morning, then traveled to Dead Timber Creek, distance fifteen miles. Here we find good feed and plenty of wood and water.
Started at nine o'clock and traveled till about five, then camped on the Platte River, having traveled twenty-four and a quarter miles. In consequence of some things which have passed and some which at present exist, I have concluded to go on as fast as circumstances will permit to Winter Quarters and I intend to start tomorrow. Some have opposed it, but not with a good grace. However, I have no fears that the council will censure me when they know the cause. If they do, I will bear the censure in preference to what I now bear. Before dark Luke Johnson, William A. Empey and Appleton Harmon came up from Laramie, having learned from an Indian that wagons were near. They say that a party of Sioux warriors have got the brethren's horses, seventeen in number, on the Raw Hide, about eighteen miles north. They say that about fifty armed men might go and probably get them, but not fewer. The Sioux are at war with the Crows and Pawnees and reports say that there is a large party of the Pawnees a little down the river.
We started a little after eight, forded the Platte without any difficulty and at three o'clock concluded to stop for the night, having traveled twenty-one and a quarter miles over very sandy road. The ox teams have kept nearly up with us and it is evident they intend to keep with us or kill their teams, and being aware that if the teams are injured we shall be blamed for it, we have given up going ahead to save the teams.
Today we traveled nineteen and a half miles over good road and camped near the river amongst good grass.
This morning Thomas Brown, Ezra Beckstead, Mathew Welch, Benjamin Roberts, David Perkins and William Bird started to go through to Winter Quarters in consequence of having no bread. We traveled nineteen and three quarters miles and camped again on the Platte. The road very good.
Last night John Pack's gray horse was stolen from his wagon. He lays it to the brethren ahead and with Norton Jacobs and Joseph Hancock has heaped a pretty long string of severe abusive language on them which I consider to be premature, unjustifiable and wicked. Two Frenchmen came to the camp and said they were camped below on a trading excursion among the Sioux. Inasmuch as some of the brethren wanted to trade with them, it was concluded to move down opposite to them. We accordingly traveled four and a quarter miles then again camped on the banks of the river and the brethren bought a number of buffalo robes, etc. Norton Jacobs bought five robes for seven common calico shirts.
The traders say they will move down the river today to where there are plenty of buffalo. Our camp also traveled ten and three quarters miles and camped a little below Chimney Rock. There are many herds of buffalo around and Lewis Barney killed one which will give us a little fresh meat. The weather has been very fine and warm for some days past. This evening there are some signs of stormy weather.
Today we traveled seven and a quarter miles, the day very hot. We turned off the road to camp at Rubidoos' request while they killed some buffalo. They gave us some very nice meat.
We have concluded to wait here until the balance of the company arrives. Afternoon went over the river and had a good feast on buffalo ribs with the Frenchmen. The victuals were cooked by a squaw but looked much cleaner than our men cook it. Evening it became cloudy and soon followed by cold rain which continued till two o'clock.
At one o'clock, I got up to stand guard and found the night extremely cold and unpleasant on account of rain. The morning is cloudy and cold. The wagons have not yet come in sight which makes us think there is something the matter with them.
Today Jackson Redding and Sanderson went back to see if they could see the other wagons. They returned at night and said the company were within a few miles having been detained at Laramie to recover their horses, most of which they got. They state that news has come to the fort by a Sioux Indian that the twelve and their company had all their horses stolen at the Pacific Springs during a snow storm. The Sioux stole them supposing them to belong to the Shoshones. The man that brought the news stole seventeen but lost eight in the mountains, the remainder he brought to Laramie and the brethren there knew some of them and demanded them. He gave them up, at least all they could prove and four of the brethren started with them to meet the twelve. The Indian says there were nine of them who stole the horses.
We resumed our journey this morning and traveled thirteen and a half miles, then camped where the road runs close to the river. The weather is again fine and hot in the day time but the nights are cold and frosty. Joseph Hancock killed a buffalo cow and John Norton an antelope which will supply the company with a little meat each, most of whom are without.
The day cloudy and some like for a storm. We made an early start and traveled to Crab Creek, distance twenty and a quarter miles then camped for the night. The land on both sides the river is literally spotted with vast herds of buffalo, but our hunters are not very lucky as yet. From the fact of there being so many buffalo in this region, we are inclined to believe we shall see but few lower down and this is probably the best chance we will have to lay in a supply to last us home. During the afternoon, Joseph Hancock killed a buffalo cow and Captain Rappleyee sent a wagon to fetch the meat to camp. When it arrived John Pack took the hind quarters and the best meat off the rest of the cow, together with all the tallow, then sent for Rappleyee to take what he had left and divide it amongst the company. When Rappleyee saw what he had done, he felt angry and Pack and he had some high words on the subject. Brother Pack's conduct has caused many unpleasant feelings against him among the brethren. He takes all the tallow he can lay his hands on, and all the best meat and has now got more than will serve him home while many of the rest have scarcely any and that of the poorest pieces. He has plenty of flour, meal, beans, tea, coffee, sugar, etc., while most of the camp are destitute of everything but meat, and while he continues to take the tallow and best of the meat there will be hard feelings against him. He has disgraced himself in the estimation of many within the past few days. I do not think I can ever forget him for his treatment of me, but I cherish no malice nor feelings of revenge, but I hope and pray that I may forever have wisdom to keep from under his power. There have been six or eight buffalo killed by the camp and it is intended to stay here tomorrow and try to get meat to last us through as it is not likely we shall have another privilege as good as this. Most of the camp now begin to feel that it is necessary for us to make our way home as fast as possible to save our teams and escape the cold rain and snowstorms.
Many of the brethren are gone out hunting. The weather continues fine and warm. In the afternoon we had a strong northwest wind. During the day the second division killed more than enough meat to last them home, but were totally unwilling to let the first division have any although they killed none, not having but two or three guns in the division. This also has tended to increase the feeling of envy and bitterness which already exists too much. Thomas Cloward has manifested feelings and conduct worse than the general run of gentiles and unworthy of a saint. He seems to have drunk into Pack's spirit for they act very much alike.
Those of the first division who have no meat have concluded to move on a few miles to where there are more buffalo as they have mostly left here, but the second division will not move till they have dried their meat some. We went on three miles and then camped where there are plenty of buffalo over the river. Lisbon Lamb, Lewis Barney and John Norton volunteered to go and kill what meat they can for those who have none. They have got enough to last them through. It is said that our coming down here has given feelings but it is plain and evident that there are several men who will find fault and deal out wholesale censure whatever is done, and for my part I shall remember John Pack, Thomas Cloward, Norton Jacobs and Joseph Hancock for some time to come. Such little, selfish, unmanly conduct as has been manifested by them, is rarely exhibited except by the meanest classes of society. A man who will openly and boldly steal is honorable when compared with some of their underhanded conduct. During the day the brethren killed five cows and one bull which are considered sufficient to last the first division home.
We waited till after nine o'clock for the second division to come up but not being yet in sight we moved onward, traveled seventeen and a half miles, then camped on Sand Hill Creek about a mile from the river. We have seen more buffalo today than I ever saw in one day, supposed to be not less than 200,000. We had some trouble to make a road through them safely. We also saw two horses with the herd. Jackson Redding went to try and catch them but found them perfectly wild.
We got an early start this morning and traveled till four o'clock, distance twenty and a quarter miles. We camped near the river in high grass. The road has run close to the river all day except a few miles beyond Castle Creek and although the ground is perfectly dry, it is very rough, it having been cut up in wet weather. Watch and Wolfe Creeks had abundance of water in them, as much as when we went up. Castle River was about a foot deep. We have not seen many buffalo today but after we camped, John Norton shot two at one shot. L. Barney also killed a young cow. The weather is yet fine and very warm.
This day we traveled only sixteen and a quarter miles, then camped a quarter of a mile east of Rattlesnake Creek on the banks of the river. In this creek, there is still a very heavy current of water running. It appears that some of the brethren left their fires burning this morning and the prairie has caught fire and is still burning furiously.
This morning I wrote a short letter and left it in a post for the company behind. We traveled twenty miles and camped on Bluff Creek. The day fine and very warm.
This morning we calculated to travel eleven miles, but on arriving at the North Bluff fork, we found no grass and were compelled to continue on. We traveled till the road strikes the river and some grass, then camped, having traveled eighteen and a half miles. Three buffalo have been killed today and there are considerable in this region. Two of the oxen gave out and had to be left on the road.
This morning we traveled four and a quarter miles, then camped opposite some islands where there is pretty good feed and willows. The day has been exceedingly warm and the brethren have dried a good quantity of meat. Considerable anxiety and feeling has originated in the breasts of two or three brethren in consequence of a rumor being circulated which deeply concerns one individual but it is not known whom. In the evening, a strong north wind blew up which made it turn very cool.
Cool and pleasant. We traveled twenty and three quarters miles and found that the last company have made a new road near the bluffs to avoid a very bad slough. We went a little on the old road and then struck across to the new road but had considerable difficulty in crossing the slough. We camped beside a small lake of not very good water and several miles from timber.
Pleasant day. We traveled nineteen miles, then turned off the road about a half a mile to camp near a small bunch of timber. The brethren have killed a good many buffalo today. They are very plentiful here, and wolves abundant.
The largest part of the company again concluded to tarry a day again although there is little feed here. Some determined to go on a piece and amongst the rest, I felt more willing to go on than to tarry. Accordingly eleven wagons started, viz. Jackson Redding, William A. Empey, Lewis Barney, Roswell Stevens, Cummings, Joseph Hancock, H. W. Sanderson, John Pack, Thos. Cloward, Zebedee Coltrin and Norton Jacobs. We traveled seventeen and a half miles and then turned off the road about a half a mile to camp.
We started a little before 10:00 a.m. and traveled till nearly dark and had then to run over a mile from the road to camp. We traveled nineteen and a quarter miles. Wind very strong from the north and a very cold day.
Just as we started this morning, twelve or fifteen Indians were seen running over the river towards us. They soon came up to the wagons which were somewhat scattered and although they shook hands, they showed savage hostility. Four of the oxen were not yet yoked up; these they drove off from the wagons which now began to draw together. They soon satisfied us that they were bent on robbing us and without ceremony took Jack Redding's horse from behind the wagon. Lamb went to take it from them and seized the lariat which another immediately cut with his knife. Lamb then got on the horse, but no sooner on than two Indians pulled him off and marched off with the horse. They stole Jack Redding's knife out of its sheath and one from John Pack. They also tried to get Jack off the horse he was riding, but he kept his seat. They tried Skeen's horse but he kicked one of them over. The Indians then tried to get the men out of their wagons so that they might get in and plunder, but every man kept in his wagon to guard it and we concluded to turn about and go back to the company. We accordingly started and the Indians turned back towards the timber with the horse, four oxen, two knives and a sack of salt. After traveling back about six miles, we met the company, told the story and bore their slang and insults without saying much, but not without thinking a great deal. The whole company were then formed in two lines. All the arms were loaded and each man that could raise a gun was ordered to walk beside the wagons, the horsemen to go ahead. We then proceeded on and when we came opposite to where we met with the Indians, the horsemen went down and found the oxen where we left them. They brought them and we traveled till dark, then camped near the river, having traveled five and a quarter miles from last night, exclusive of the distance we went back. A strong guard was placed around the cattle and camp and kept up through the night. Many hard speeches have passed among the brethren, such as "damned hypocrites," "damned liars," "mutineers," etc., and most of those who started ahead are ordered to travel in the rear all the time. This savage, tyrannical conduct was one thing which induced some to leave and undertake to go through alone and more peaceably and it will still leave feelings of revenge and hatred which will require some time to cover up. Young Babcock shook his fist in Zebedee Coltrin's face and damned him and said he could whip him. For my part, I shall be glad when I get in more peaceable society, and I think I shall not easily be caught in such a scrape again.
We have had no disturbance from Indians. We started at six o'clock and went on five miles to get better feed. We then halted for breakfast. The remainder of the day's travel was mostly over dog towns. A United States soldier came up to the wagons and went with us a few miles. He says there are ninety of them on the island surveying and looking out a place to build a fort. We traveled seventeen and a quarter miles today, then camped near a low bench of land where there is plenty of grass and water and willows for fuel. A number of the soldiers came over to camp. They say the Pawnees are perfectly enraged and savage and that the worst band of between four and five hundred are on the north side the Platte about forty miles below.
Morning fine but cold wind. The captains called the camp together and asked whether we shall wait here three days or a week for the twelve, or shall we continue on to Winter Quarters. Thirty men voted to go on, seventeen voted to wait and the remainder did not vote. The majority having voted to go on, we started and traveled very slowly till about five o'clock, then turned off to the river to camp, having traveled sixteen miles. There are many new tracks of Indians on the sand bar, but we have seen none today.
Morning, cloudy and cold. We have had a little very cold rain and there is great appearance for more. We started on but it continued to rain heavily till near noon. The afternoon was fair but very cold. We traveled twenty-one and a quarter miles and camped amongst high grass close to timber. There is every chance for Indians tonight if any are near. The camp in general are much dissatisfied with the camping place.
This morning the weather was severely cold with strong wind. Some of the cattle were missing and the owners not going to hunt them till the rest were ready to start on, we were detained till eleven o'clock and then proceeded. We found plenty of water in Wood River but did not lose much time crossing. We took one of the late wagon trails and arrived on Prairie Creek a little before sundown, having traveled fifteen and three quarters miles. We have seen no Indians yet and all goes well but the cold weather.
Morning very cold indeed with strong northwest wind. We found the creek difficult to cross, it being soft and miry, but all soon got over safely and we proceeded on. The road is sandy about five or six miles on the bluffs and very crooked all the way. We arrived and camped on the Loup Fork at dark, having traveled twenty-one and three quarters miles. The day has been excessively cold.
Much time was lost this morning in hunting for a place to cross the river. It was finally concluded to cross a mile higher up and we proceeded to the place. While going up we saw a company of horsemen and two wagons on the other side the river, which we soon recognized to be our brethren from Winter Quarters. All the wagons got over safely and camped on the hill, having traveled two miles. The company is a part of the old police going to meet the next company. We were gladdened with the news they bring from Winter Quarters.
The brethren of the police started early this morning to go on and meet the next company. They got well over the river but not without getting into the water to lift at the wagon wheels. It was late when we started on account of some oxen being missing and there are some who will not look for their cattle till all the rest are ready to start. We traveled till a little after three and camped on the banks of the Loup Fork, distance twelve and three quarters miles, day warmer.
The night has been very stormy, there being a strong wind, rain, and very cold. We made an early start and by noon arrived at the mission station. We found the Pawnees busy gathering corn, probably nearly a thousand of men, women and children. They soon began to come to the wagons and their chiefs made inquiries by signs about the Chirrarots or Sioux. Some of the brethren gave them to understand that the Sioux were within five days of them. The chief immediately gave the word to the rest and in half an hour the squaws had loaded their corn on ponies and mules and then began to march towards the river. They show great fear of the Sioux. They were very anxious to have us camp with them tonight but we kept moving on. One of the wagons was upset crossing a ravine. Several of the brethren traded for corn. At three o'clock, we arrived and turned out the teams on Beaver River, having traveled seventeen and a quarter miles. Soon after we arrived, some of the Indians came up, having followed with the idea of trading. They have conducted themselves peaceably so far, but they are not to be trusted. In consequence of their following us, it was the feeling of most of the brethren to go on a few miles after dark. At 5:45 we started on and traveled till 8:30 being six and a half miles, then camped beside the lakes. Evening very fine and pleasant. We have traveled twenty-three and three quarters miles today.
We started early and traveled to Looking Glass, then halted for breakfast. Morning windy and cold. After breakfast, we started on again and traveled till four o'clock, distance sixteen and a quarter miles, then camped at a point of timber near a creek or lake and not far from the Loup Fork.
Started at eight o'clock and traveled to Shell Creek distance eighteen and three quarters miles, day pleasant but cool.
The night was excessively cold and this morning there is considerable ice. We got an early start and traveled to where the road leaves the river and crosses to the Horn. At this place there is a liberty pole set up by some of the brethren. We have traveled today twenty-three and a quarter miles and we now find that the grass is all burned off ahead of us as far as we can see, probably to the Elk Horn. We are cheered by a view of the timber on that stream.
We started early and found the prairie all burned off to the Elk Horn except in small patches. We arrived at the Horn about noon and soon after commenced crossing where Hosea Stout and company crossed. The water was nearly three feet deep and the bottom somewhat soft, but we were soon all over without accident except John Pack, who broke his wagon tongue. We then had to make a road through high, strong grass for upwards of half a mile and found a very bad creek or slough to cross. When we again struck the main road, we found it good and started for the Papea where we arrived soon after dark, all except one wagon which was left a mile back. The evening cool and windy.
This morning, Brother Empey, Lamb and myself started early accompanied by six horsemen and arrived in Winter Quarters a little before noon. I found my family all well except Moroni who is very sick and his mother is somewhat sick. Their circumstances are not good, but in other respects they have been prosperous for which I thank my God. There has been much sickness here and many deaths during the fall and many are now suffering for lack of some of the comforts of life. We have been prosperous on our journey home and have arrived in nine weeks and three days, including a week's delay waiting for the twelve and killing buffalo. Our health has been remarkably good, but we have lacked provisions, many of us having nothing but dry buffalo meat. I have succeeded in measuring the whole distance from the City of the Great Salt Lake to this place, except a few miles between Horse Creek and the A La Bonte River which was taken from the measurement going up. I find the whole distance to be 1,032 miles and am now prepared to make a complete traveler's guide from here to the Great Salt Lake, having been careful in taking the distance from creek to creek, over bluffs, mountains, etc. It has required much time and care and I have continually labored under disadvantages in consequence of the companies feeling no interest in it. The health of my family has encouraged me for all that is past and my secret gratitude shall ascend to Heaven for the unbounded kindness and mercies which the Almighty has continually poured upon them in my absence.