CHAPTER III

UP THE GRAND CANYONNO. 147. UP THE GRAND CANYON FROM INSPIRATION PT.—YELLOWSTONE PARK. HAYNES-PHOTO.

When the Queen of Sheba came from the uttermost parts of the earth to hear the wisdom of Solomon, and he answered all her questions, showing her the riches and glory of his kingdom, she said, "It was a true report that I heard in mine own land of thy acts and of thy wisdom. Howbeit I believed not the words, until I came, and mine eyes had seen it: and, BEHOLD, THE HALF WAS NOT TOLD ME." This truly could be said of the Grand Canyon. I have been many times through the Rocky Mountain regions, passed through the Royal Gorge, have seen most of the places of interest that the mountain passes, fastnesses, and peaks afford, but nothing had ever socharmed, awed, inspired, and bewildered me as did the first glimpse of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.

Solomon's kingdom symbolizes the second work of grace, taught in the Scriptures, an experience which no one can understand unless he is in possession of it. Experience is necessary to enjoy it in its fulness, and so with nature's grandeur and magnificence on such a tremendous scale as in the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. One must see with the eyes what the mind fails to grasp by the hearing of the ear. Language, with its adaptability to the usages of mortal man, is inadequate. Word-pictures, though drawn by the most visionary and gifted, fail to convey in a slight degree the grandeur of nature's activities and exhibitions in this the most inspiring and picturesque spot on the globe.

After I was again seated in the car, for a few moments my eyes were closed to all the world about me, and in a new sense I began to realize the infinite depths of divine power and wisdom, and how small is the creature when compared with the Creator.

AtArtist's Viewwe stopped again for another look at the canyon. In the opinion of some persons, a better view was to be had herethan at Inspiration Point, but I did not think so, and did not tarry long. Feeling that enough had been crowded into one day, I went back to the stage anxious to get where I could relax and rest.

A few minutes later we arrived atYellowstone Camp, near the Upper and Lower Falls. After we had registered and were shown the way to our tents, the evening meal was served in a large, spacious dining-room.

In the office of the camp we found a log fire burning. A score or more of tourists seated around it were engaged in conversation; and the new arrivals received a cordial welcome. Everything presented so homelike an appearance, it made me feel as if I should like to spend a week here.

The greatest courtesy was manifested on the part of the managers and those who rendered us service, and I felt that they had a real heart interest in our welfare. The accommodations in the tents were all that one could ask. The tents had floors, were boarded up the sides, and furnished with all the conveniences necessary. In each one there was a stove that was lighted bothmorning and evening, as it was late in the season and sometimes the temperature was almost at freezing point. When a fire was needed, one of the attendants at the camp came to light it.

WILLOW PARK CAMPWILLOW PARK CAMP, YELLOWSTONE PARK © Haynes, St. Paul

After dinner was served on the evening of our arrival, my brother and his wife took a trip downUncle Tom's Trailto the base of the Lower Yellowstone Fall. They returned later, excited not a little, to tell of their adventure and what they had seen. I regretted that they did not wait until morning so that I could go with them, but I was so elated with the description of the fall that I was determined to go down the trail, if I had to go alone. The next morning when I saw how hazardous the undertaking would be, there was nothing that could have induced me to descend the rocky steep over which they had traveled. Sister Lillian and I got a good view of the fall from a prominence near the edge of the canyon, and this satisfied me.

Just before the water makes its tremendous leap, it is compressed within a width of about 100 feet, where it seems to slowdown to prepare for the shock before it dashes 308 feet over the rocks. Here from the foaming mass of spray, gorgeous rainbows may be seen. The eye is then inclined to follow the little stream that dwindles away between the rocky sides of the great chasm, foaming and dashing as it goes, until it looks like a silver thread in the distance. The rainbow colors at the fall, blending with the various tints and hues reflected from the mineral formations on the sides of the canyon, presented a picture that no artist could paint.

My sister and I took the trail along the edge of the canyon and finally made intersection with the automobile road within a short distance of the camp. On the way back, I felt as if I had lighted down on another sphere where I could stay for only a brief period, and that I must profit by every moment of time that was allotted me. Pausing by the roadside, I asked the question, "What shall it be when these mortal bodies put on immortality, when they shall no longer be subject to the laws of gravitation or others governing material substances? What shall it be to wing one's flight to unseen worlds where there is still a greater comprehension to be had of Him whocreated the world and threw it from the tips of His fingers into space!"

It took thousands of years for astronomers to learn that the earth is hung upon nothing; that when God created it He made it out of nothing, and set the forces in action that were continually demonstrating His omnipotence before their eyes.

The plan of salvation, of which it is my privilege to be a partaker, was never more precious to me than at this time, and I had a new appreciation of the fact that an infinite price had been paid for man's redemption. I felt renewed inspiration to press the battle against sin and unrighteousness to the gates of heaven or to the depths of hell.

The Calvary route is often rugged. There are many dangerous places, where if the Infinite One did not clasp our hands and hold them tightly, we would plunge to the depths of the chasm and be wrecked and ruined for time and eternity. We have the blessed consolation, however, that He has promised to guide us with His eye, and never to leave or forsake those who put their trust in Him.

There is an atmosphere of sincerity among the people around the hotels and camps of theYellowstone that is rarely found in summer resorts in other places. Here the voice of God in nature is heard in the smallest whisper, and again in tones of thunder; those who are inclined to be giddy and possessed with a spirit of levity, suddenly find themselves sobering up and beginning to think upon those things that involve the interests of their immortal souls.

Many of the helpers about the camps and hotels of the Park, I was told, were students and teachers who had come to the Yellowstone unprepared financially to make the tour, and had accepted positions as waiters, waitresses, etc., in order to pay their way through, and to be able to return by the time their schools opened. Some of them received only slight compensation, and depended on the good will of the tourists to reimburse them for services.

The familiarity that was seen everywhere between man and beast betokens the fact that an earnest of Isaiah's prophecy of the Millennium is being fulfilled. These native animals are free to go wherever they please, and seem to have little or no fear. In many instances they come close enough to eat out of the hands of the tourists. At the park camps and around the kitchens of the hotels, black,brown, and occasionally grizzly bears could be seen at almost any hour of the day eating out of tins or otherwise in search of food. At our camp, near the kitchen, I found a brown bear with two little cubs. She looked at me with an independent toss of her head as much as to say, "You may be surprised to see me here, but I am enjoying the rights and privileges accorded me under the laws governing the Park; I am taking no undue liberties nor committing any offense." She then took an affectionate look at her cubs and warned me to keep my distance. I assured her that I had no thought of disturbing them, and so there was an understanding between us. I afterward made frequent visits to the brow of the hill where I could get a good view of her and her little ones.

Tourists often make a mistake in trying to feed and pet the bears. Signs are up everywhere warning them of this danger. A short time before our party arrived, some person tried to pet a bear and was bitten in the wrist. It taught him and others a lesson. These animals have not been tamed, and the reason they are not so vicious as in primeval days is because no one is allowed to wound or kill them. Whenone becomes unmanageable and it is necessary to dispose of it, the government rangers who have charge of the Park remove all traces of blood, and even burn the hide, so as to keep from arousing suspicion on the part of others. Thus we see, in part, what the Millennium will be when nothing shall hurt or destroy, and when "righteousness shall be the girdle of his lions, and faithfulness the girdle of his reins."

BEAR FEEDING "A LA CARTE"BEAR FEEDING "A LA CARTE" © Haynes, St. Paul

"The wolf also shall dwell with the lamb, and the leopard shall lie down with the kid; and the calf and the young lion and the fatling together; and a little child shall lead them. And the cow and the bear shall feed; their young ones shall lie down together: and the lion shall eat straw like the ox. And the sucking child shall play on the hole of the asp, and the weaned child shall put his hand on the cockatrice' den. THEY SHALL NOT HURT NOR DESTROY IN ALL MY HOLY MOUNTAIN: for the earth shall be full of the knowledge of the Lord, as the waters cover the sea" (Isa. II:5:9).

We could have spent another day at the Grand Canyon, as we had arranged for a five-day tour, but decided to spend more time atOld Faithful Camp near the Upper Geyser Basin, and therefore planned to leave in the afternoon. In the meantime I packed up my things, made some notes in my diary, and went alone to the Upper Yellowstone Fall.

Here, with no one present but the unseen host, I spent one of the most profitable hours of my life. I was in a position to get a good view of the Fall, where the water was dashing more than a hundred feet over the rocks, preparatory to the final plunge of three hundred feet a half mile below.

For a short time, surrounded by nature, with all of its primitive beauty and grandeur, I seemed to forget my burdens, and had a foretaste of what it will be when the cross is laid down and the crown is won. But to be an overcomer, I knew there must be no shrinking from duty until the last battle is fought.

Time forbade my tarrying longer at this place, and I hurried to the camp where I found my brother and sister looking for me. In a few minutes we had bidden many of our newly-made friends good-by and were hurried off in the yellow touring carviaTower Fall to Mammoth Hot Springs, a distance of about forty miles.

UPPER YELLOWSTONE FALLUPPER YELLOWSTONE FALL © Haynes, St. Paul

In the car was a new driver, and among the passengers were the four "Friends" who had started with us from Cody, Wyoming. We were glad to have them, and also to have a change of drivers, so that we might forget the unpleasant experience of the day before at Pahaska Tepee Lodge.

Every person in the car seemed to be in good spirits, and ready to enjoy the trip to the fullest extent. From the time we left the camp until we reached Mt. Washburn, a distance of about ten miles, my time was mostly taken up answering the questions of a woman from California who wanted information about our organization, the Pillar of Fire. I was glad to answer her questions and to give her all the enlightenment I could, but I found that it was taxing my physical strength when I should be at my best to profit by the trip. I silently prayed that a change of some kind might be made. We did not take the automobile road to the summit of Mt. Washburn, an altitude of 10,388 feet, but turned to the left throughDunraven Pass, along the side of the mountain, a much shorter road than over the summit.

I had no desire to go to the summit. I had so often been over the highest peaks of theRockies on all the scenic railroad lines, that I did not care to tax my nerves on such a trip; other passengers felt much the same.

The drive around the side of the mountain was hazardous enough for me; and while others expressed no fear, there were times when I felt I should be compelled to get out of the car and walk. A good-natured pilot seated by the driver, who, no doubt, was sent out by the Park company, was skilful enough to divert my attention from the distance to the base of the mountain at our left until we had passed over the dangerous part of the road. I shall not forget the manner in which he undertook to make me forget that I was nervous.

Tower Fallwas our first stop. The dizzy heights had almost unfitted me for what awaited us at this place, but my brother and the pilot assisted me up the steps and I followed others down the trail to the fall, dashing 132 feet over the rocks. The snowy, foaming water has the appearance of white satin ribbon, falling perpendicularly between two towering rocks, whence it gets its name. It lacks the volume of some other falls in the Yellowstone, but its grace and beauty are nowhere surpassed.

About four miles from the fall, we turned aside toCamp Roosevelt, where we found a great display of elk horns. I was constantly on the lookout for elk, deer, and other animals, as I was told that they were often seen in herds in that locality, but I saw nothing except a lonely coyote, trotting along utterly indifferent to our presence. It seems that the continual blowing of automobile horns has frightened the more timid creatures back from the highways, and only occasionally do they venture close enough to be seen.

The distance from Grand Canyon Camp to Mammoth Hot Springs, near Fort Yellowstone, was made in about three and one-half hours, with only the one stop at Tower Fall, and the few minutes that we halted at Camp Roosevelt, and the Cold Spring. But there was not one moment of monotony. The harmonious blending of colors, the distant mountain peaks and ranges, the soft-tinted sky, the trees, the water, in fact, all of Nature's best, in a milder form than we had seen about the Grand Canyon at the Upper and Lower Yellowstone Falls, was constantly presented in shifting scenes before our vision, relieving, in a measure, the tension we had been under since arriving in the vicinity of the Grand Canyon.

One place, in particular, that attracted my attention, was a beaver dam and hut that had been constructed by an order of masons whoseoperations are conducted exclusively upon the principles of home protection, and whose chief aim is to protect the fur trade of which they are the producers. In order to do this and to keep from being stranded, it is often necessary for the beavers to dam up the waters and build a house in which to live.

When they cut down trees, they have the faculty of felling them where they want to build, so as to save as much labor as possible. At our left was a creek and a dam they had built and a house they had constructed, independent of the laws controlling the builders' association or that of the labor unions.

Their tools are very simple, as they use their teeth for saws, their tails for trowels, etc. In the midst of the dam was the hut, built of unplaned logs, with a well-constructed roof.

Under less favorable circumstances than is found for animal life in the Park, these little workers with their soft, silken fur would have been hunted down and captured before they could have brought the work to completion. Again, I could not help but exclaim,What a blessing are the laws governing the Yellowstone Park!

BEAVER DAMBEAVER DAM © Haynes, St. Paul

The rangers, with stations interspersed throughout the vast area of more than 3,000 square miles, are employed by the government for the protection of life and property, and arrests are quickly made and penalties fixed when there is any violation of the law. These men are not soldiers, but patrolmen on horseback, dressed in cowboy's uniform. An ordinary soldier would be unfitted for such work. Men in leather shaps are needed who can break and ride bronchos, throw the lariat, and round up the herds; those who are used to the mountain fastnesses and the buffalo path, the haunts of black, brown, and grizzly bears, and are acquainted with the habits of the elk, moose, mountain sheep, the antelope, the deer, etc.; those who know the habits and lurking places of the unscrupulous hunters and poachers who defy the laws and by any or all means seek to evade punishment. No one is better fitted than the western ranger to track them down and see that they are brought to justice.

When we arrived at theMammoth Springs, we found a welcome at the camp andsoon felt very much at home. It was cool enough for a fire, and many of the tourists gathered around the stove in the office and chatted with one another until the evening meal, which proved to be a plentiful repast and well served.

Our tents were furnished after the same pattern as those of the Grand Canyon Camp, with the exception that these were lighted with electricity.

TheMammoth Hot Springsand the beautiful terraces, in attempting description of which all language has been exhausted, were only a short distance from the camp; without waiting for a guide, we were soon winding our way up the side of the hill and around the road where we could find an entrance to the plateau. I had seen pictures of the many springs and terraces in colors, and had supposed they were overdrawn, but I found myself in the same bewildered state as when I first saw the Grand Canyon. Before I was aware, my tears were flowing freely at the thought of how impossible it would be to describe these springs to my friends and others who, perhaps, would never have the opportunity of seeing them. Theblending of colors cannot be reproduced by the brush of the most gifted artist. I was thankful that God had permitted me to see the work of His hands that I might help others in the battle for eternal life.

Some of our party were looking for theDevil's Kitchen, but in the absence of a guide were having difficulty in finding it; I had no inclination to participate in the search. I had been in the ante-chamber of heaven and at the gates of perdition, and this was sufficient for one day, so I started back toward the camp, with a lady who seemed to be satisfied to stay by my side, even though she missed seeing many of the places of interest.

I knew she was tired, and hoped that she might ride the remainder of the way. Soon an automobile came along and took her in. By this time my brother and sister and other members of the party had given up the search for the Devil's Kitchen and overtaken us. Later I was told that it is in the crater of an extinct boiling spring, not far from some of the terraces.

After reaching the camp, I was about to retire, when I decided to go to the office andsee what was going on. A number of persons were preparing a program for an entertainment, and asked me to make an address, but I felt that enough had been crowded into one day, and declined.

Before morning, the weather became very chilly, and I had to use both the heavy comforters that had been provided for my bed. My circulation was not good, and my rest was more or less disturbed. I feared a greater change might come in the weather, and decided to get over the ground as quickly as possible even though we should have to miss many of the details of the place.

We had breakfast with Mr. Hayes, president of the Yellowstone Camp Company, who officially, or otherwise, has been connected with operations in the Yellowstone for the past twenty-five years. Mr. Hayes was able to give us some valuable information, which we greatly appreciated.

Mammoth Campis situated at the foot of Jupiter Terrace. A short distance away is Fort Yellowstone, where the administration headquarters of the Park is located.

I should have enjoyed seeing more of the springs, with their gorgeous hues and combinations,but with the hope that we should have the opportunity of visiting the Park again in the near future, our party took the morning stage to Old Faithful Camp, at the Upper Geyser Basin.

FORT YELLOWSTONEFORT YELLOWSTONE © Haynes, St. Paul

Before leaving, I got a glimpse of the buffalo herd on the horizon in the distance, and was surprised to hear how rapidly these animals are becoming extinct in the Park, where they are so well protected. It seems that the buffalo and the Indian go together, and thrive only where civilization has not yet come.

The weather was cold, and having to travel in an open car made it very uncomfortable until the sun had time to rise above the tall trees and the mountain peaks. A brisk wind was blowing, and most of the time I had to keep my face heavily veiled. This hindered me from getting the full benefit of the scenery on the way to the Norris Geyser Basin. Here, however, there was so much steam and boiling water I had no difficulty in getting warm.

We had a skilful driver, who called out the names of the places in a clear voice. This kept the passengers from being under a strain of uncertainty and tense listening.

Obsidian Cliff, formed as the result of volcanic action in ages past, is twelve miles south of Mammoth Hot Springs. It rises two hundred fifty feet above the road and is composed of jet-black, volcanic glass, usually opaque, streaked with red, yellow, and green. When the roadway was constructed, great fires were built around blocks of this glass, which, when heated, were cooled by dashing water upon them resulting in their being shattered into fragments. This is said to be the only stretch of glass road in existence.

The cliff was "neutral ground" to the different tribes of Indians. Chips of obsidian and partly finished obsidian arrow-heads are found throughout the Park, usually at places where the Indians had their camps. When the cliff is illuminated by the rays of the sun, it has the appearance of a glistening mirror, and is of much interest to the tourists.

Four and one-half miles from Norris isRoaring Mountainwith steam escaping through countless apertures from its rugged side. The sound of the steam struggling to escape is not so audible now as in the past, but the whole picture reminds one of the inferno about ready to blow off its cap.

OBSIDIAN CLIFFOBSIDIAN CLIFF © Haynes, St. Paul

In close proximity to the mountain are greenish, milky pools fed by rivers of sulphur water from the springs. It was not our privilege to tarry here, from the fact that the weather was uncomfortably cold, but the mountain stands out before me as one of the most interesting places to be seen on the tour.

The wind was blowing fiercely when we came toTwin Lakes, four miles from Norris Geyser Basin, but I removed my heavy veil in order to get a better glimpse of them. They are beautiful, and although in such close proximity, their hues are entirely different.

How often two objects are found so closely allied to each other as to be inseparable, each one depending upon the other for its existence! This cannot be a freak of nature or the result of chance. The only sensible conclusion is that it was so designed by the Creator to teach a most important spiritual lesson,—that of the two works of grace, which constitute the panoply of the soul. There is no way to discard either without serious results.

There is something about clear, pure water, whether it is seen in the placid lake or the gushing, mountain torrent, that inspires and lifts a person above the toils and cares of thislife, where he is able to breathe a pure and holy atmosphere. Hence we see why, as shown in the Scriptures, Jesus so often used water to illustrate the plan of salvation. Water is the symbol of life, and in the boiling springs, the pools, the lakes, the chasms, and the great, spouting geysers, a book is written in the Yellowstone that every one should learn to read.

Our attention was next called to theFrying Pan, a basin fifteen feet across, with numerous boiling jets in constant and violent agitation.

I regretted that circumstances were not more favorable so that I could have a longer period of time to spend at these places, where Nature is so full of life and interest.

ROARING MOUNTAINROARING MOUNTAIN © Haynes, St. Paul

When we arrived atNorris(formerly Gibbon)Geyser Basin, I was so cold I could scarcely use my limbs. The first attraction was a great, boiling spring at the left as we entered the basin. I immediately felt the change in the atmosphere, and soon got warm after reaching the board walk under which the boiling water was flowing, the hot steam everywhere being forced out through apertures.

Here was my first sight of the clear water geysers. TheConstant, with a maximum height of twenty feet, plays at intervals of from thirty to sixty seconds. TheMinute Manplays at intervals of from one to three minutes with a duration of about the same length of time. In this basin are also theEchinus, theFearless, theMonarch, with a maximum height of fifty feet, playing at intervals of twenty-five to sixty minutes, theNew Crater, theWhirligig, and theValentine.The maximum height of the Valentine is a hundred feet and the time of eruptions varies from twenty-two to thirty hours.

TheBlack Growler Steam Ventgrowled continually, sending forth great volumes of steam. The deposit around the crater is black in some places. The vent north of the Black Growler is called theHurricane. It looks much like the former, but is not so active. TheBath Tubdoes not erupt, but is in constant agitation.Emerald Poolis a large lake of boiling water, green in appearance.

New Crater Geyseris surrounded by large blocks of yellow rock. In the vicinity of this geyser, in 1891, a commotion occurred, very much like an earthquake, when great volumes of water were forced out. Since then there have been only ordinary eruptions, about every three minutes. The form of the crater is such that the water is prevented from attaining any great height.

Monarch Geyser, near the base of the hill, is almost surrounded by beautifully colored rocks. The crater has two openings, the larger of which is twenty feet long and three feet wide. Eruptions occur without warning, and water is thrown a hundred feet high. Theintervals between eruptions are about six hours.

NORRIS GEYSER BASINNORRIS GEYSER BASIN © Haynes, St. Paul

TheFearless Geyserthrows water in every direction, apparently defying those who wish to approach it.Norrisis a new geyser, and is probably changing more rapidly than any other in the basin. One never knows what changes a season may bring forth.

TheMinute Manis always interesting, especially on account of its regularity. Its crater seems originally to have been merely a fissure in a rock.

A few miles from Norris Basin isElk Park, a valley surrounded by timbered hills. Across the river from the road isChocolate Spring, which has built a cone of chocolate color.

Monument Geyser Basinis on the summit ofMt. Schurz. There is not much to justify the tourist in making the ascent, as there are only a dozen or two of crumbling geyser cones, some of which steam and rumble, while others are apparently extinct.

On the east side of the river we enteredGibbon Canyon, and for several miles were shadowed by towering cliffs, in some places a thousand feet high.

Beryl Springis the largest boiling springin the canyon. It is fifteen feet across, and about a mile from the entrance. While our touring car was dashing around the mountainside, suddenly we came toGibbon Fall. Here, from a height of over eighty feet, bubbling and foaming torrents of water tumble down the steep cascades.

AtNational Park Mountain, our driver announced that we were at the confluence of the Gibbon and Firehole Rivers. It was here that the famous Washburn exploring party, in 1870, decided that the Yellowstone region should be set aside as a National Park, and from that time put forth their efforts to this end. Among the most enthusiastic were Cornelius Hedges, David E. Folsom, Lieut. Doane, and Nathaniel P. Langford. How providential it was that these unselfish, public-spirited men should have taken up the subject at that time!

I did not know that the junction of the Gibbon and Firehole Rivers was an historical place, but was so fascinated with the scenery, I felt that I should like to camp there for a week, and have an opportunity to make notes preparatory to publishing an account of my trip. To me, there was unusual attraction, and somethingvery romantic, about the Firehole River. I had heard how it was fed by the geysers and boiling springs, and this added enchantment to its many charms. At one place I saw a great boulder in the river, from the sides of which were growing two spruce or pine trees.

NATIONAL PARK MOUNTAINNATIONAL PARK MOUNTAIN © Haynes, St. Paul

At theLowerandMidway Basinsare theGreat FountainandExcelsior Geysers. The Excelsior, better known as "Hell's Half Acre," ceased to play in 1888. Previous to this it was known to throw water to a height of 300 feet, the time of the eruptions varying from one to four hours.Great Fountainexpels the water to a height of 100 feet, playing for thirty minutes, and its eruptions are from eight to twelve hours apart. At the present time Excelsior Geyser is a boiling lake, where the steam often prevents one from getting a good view of it.

TheMammoth Paint Potsheld my undivided interest for the limited time that I had. This is a boiling mass of mud, white at the center, and gradually developing into a beautiful pink, or flesh color toward the outer edges. The caldron of waxen mixture has a basin forty by sixty feet in size, with a rim about five feet high. The mud in the center bubbles upcontinually, "plop, plop," under the pressure of heat, and cools off toward the outer edges.

"HELL'S HALF ACRE""HELL'S HALF ACRE" © Haynes, St. Paul

David E. Folsom witnessed a display of the Great Fountain Geyser in 1869:

"The hole through which the water was discharged was ten feet in diameter, and was situated in the center of a large circular shallow basin into which the water fell. There was a stiff breeze blowing at the time, and by going to the windward side and carefully picking our way over convenient stones we were enabled to reach the edge of the hole. At that moment the escaping steam was causing the water to boil up in a fountain five or six feet high. It stopped in an instant, and commenced settling down—twenty, thirty, forty feet—until we concluded that the bottom had fallen out, but the next instant, without any warning, it came rushing up and shot into the air at least eighty feet, causing us to stampede. It continued to spout at intervals of a few moments for some time, but finally subsided."

"The hole through which the water was discharged was ten feet in diameter, and was situated in the center of a large circular shallow basin into which the water fell. There was a stiff breeze blowing at the time, and by going to the windward side and carefully picking our way over convenient stones we were enabled to reach the edge of the hole. At that moment the escaping steam was causing the water to boil up in a fountain five or six feet high. It stopped in an instant, and commenced settling down—twenty, thirty, forty feet—until we concluded that the bottom had fallen out, but the next instant, without any warning, it came rushing up and shot into the air at least eighty feet, causing us to stampede. It continued to spout at intervals of a few moments for some time, but finally subsided."

Prismatic Lakefairly dazzled me with its beauty. In the center it is a deep blue, blending into green toward the edges. In the shallow portion it is yellow, blending into orange at the edges. The water sparkles and flows off in every direction over the slightly raised rim of the lake. Its beauty and delicacy ofcoloring are impossible to describe. It is heated to nearly 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

Biscuit BasinandSapphire Poolare places of much interest, alsoJewel Geyser,Artemisia Geyser, etc.

Morning Glory Spring, near Riverside Bridge, presented to me an idea of what the earth will be when the curse is lifted and it is clothed in Edenic glory. It is twenty-three feet in diameter, with a temperature of 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and with an apparent depth of about thirty feet.

I had not previously made a study of the Park, and never knew what was coming next, but before I reached Old Faithful Camp at the Upper Geyser Basin, I felt that I had seen enough to repay me a thousand-fold for any expense or effort that was being made in the tour of the Yellowstone, which to me was truly a world of wonders.

MAMMOTH PAINT POTSMAMMOTH PAINT POTS © Haynes, St. Paul

It was about noon when we reached theUpper Geyser Basin, and I felt that it would be profitable to take a little rest before going any further into the mysteries of this "wonderland."Old Faithfulwas due to play shortly after we reached the camp, but I was too far away when it was announced she was in action to get the full benefit of the display, and went back to the camp to wait another seventy minutes. The long drive in the forenoon, and the exposure to the cold, caused me to feel weary and dull, nevertheless I made an effort to be on hand at every eruption, which to me became more and more fascinating.

Old Faithful Innaccommodates 400 guests. It is constructed of boulders and logs, with peaks, angles, dormers, French windows, etc. This most restful and impressive abode of the tourists is only two or three minutes' walk from Old Faithful Geyser, and so locatedas to give from its balconies a splendid view of the display.

OFFICE OLD FAITHFUL INNOFFICE OLD FAITHFUL INN © Haynes, St. Paul

The office-room is 75 feet square and 92 feet high, and reaches to the roof, with a massive chimney that rises to the top. The building is surrounded with beautiful grounds, furnished with rustic seats. The chimney is fourteen feet square with eight fireplaces, and balconies are built around three sides. While everything is of the rustic order, there is nothing commonplace about the hotel or its furnishings. "It is a creation of art from the foundation to the peak of the roof."

Old Faithful Geyserin the forefront of Old Faithful Inn is like a sentinel, and so named because of the regularity of its eruptions. Its crater, from which the water is expelled to a height of 150 feet, is an oblong opening, two by six feet, at the top of a mound of geyserite. Its eruptions sometimes vary a few minutes, in the meantime giving warning with two or three short spurts, increasing in volume until the maximum height is reached. The display is short, most of the water falling back into the crater, but no more fascinating or impressive scene could be found. The formationsaround are brilliant in color, resembling the more subdued tints and hues seen at the Mammoth Hot Springs.

In the early part of the afternoon, a number of tourists, including my brother and sister, went with a guide toGeyser Hill. After their return, they had much to say about what they had seen and heard. Later in the day I felt rested and wanted to make the trip, and my brother and sister went with me. They had learned all they could from the guide and were ready to name the various geysers, springs, and pools, and describe their operations to me. Of these, the Giantess, Beehive, and Sponge Geysers, were the most interesting. TheGiantessoccupies the most prominent position on the hill. Its displays attain a height of about 100 feet, and are accompanied by shocks and tremors much like earthquakes. The entire eruption lasts from twelve to twenty-four hours. The crater appears to be about thirty feet in diameter, and after each eruption a steam period ensues. In 1911, the eruptions varied from four to twelve days. Some years previous to this, the eruptions took place about once a month. It is believed that while activity, as a whole, is decreasing inthe geyser regions, a century brings only a slight change.

I stood near the crater of the Giantess during the steam period. For a moment the vapor cleared away, and I could see down the great neck of the crater into a yawning chasm, so angry and terrible, as to make me feel that I had seen with the eye what the Bible describes as the bottomless pit, where the sulphurous flames belch forth, and "where their worm dieth not, and the fire is not quenched" (Mark 9:44).

If there are those who have doubts as to the reality of the lake of fire, of which Jesus told His disciples, in the 16th chapter of St. Luke, they should by all means go to the regions of the Yellowstone: for here, vividly presented to the vision, are the realities of a burning underworld, with only a thin crust between it and the habitation of human beings.

The Bible clearly teaches that hell is located in the center of this earth, and therefore it must be conceded that the ebon throne of Diabolus is somewhere in the heated regions below, the intensity of which the geysers, pools, springs, and volcanoes are continually demonstrating.

GIANTESS GEYSER IN ACTIONGIANTESS GEYSER IN ACTION © Haynes, St. Paul

Whatever may be involved in the separation of soul and body, it is nevertheless true that the immortal spirit that has not appropriated the atoning blood must dwell in the confines of the bottomless pit, which is described in the Scriptures as being in the center of this earth. Here are the flames by which Dives was tormented when he begged Abraham to send Lazarus with a drop of water to cool his parched tongue, and made an appeal for some one to go to his father's house to warn his five brothers not to come to that place of torment. Abraham had to refuse both requests, saying, "Son, remember that thou in thy lifetime receivedst thy good things, and likewise Lazarus evil things: but now he is comforted, and thou art tormented. And beside all this, between us and you there is a great gulf fixed: so that they which would pass from hence to you cannot; neither can they pass to us, that would come from thence." Then, when he wanted some one to go to his father's house to warn his brothers, Abraham said, "They have Moses and the prophets; let them hear them." But still the doomed man continued and said, "If one went unto them from the dead, they will repent," but he was told, "Ifthey hear not Moses and the prophets, neither will they be persuaded, though one rose from the dead." How true this is! After all the influence that can be brought to bear upon people, they rebel against God and follow their own precepts; and true to fallen human nature, ask for greater evidence of His power. "The wicked shall be turned into hell, and all the nations that forget God" (Ps. 9:17). This and other plain scriptures should be sufficient to warn men to flee the wrath to come. Optimism and presumption everywhere characterize the multitudes when it comes to this most important question concerning the future welfare of the soul.

The man who had allowed the devil to deceive him and take him at last to his abode in the regions of torment, was still presumptuous and persistent. He wanted help, which it was impossible for him to receive, and also warning given to his father's house, which they had refused to take through Moses and the prophets.

It is necessary at this period of the world's history to have an object lesson like that of the Yellowstone National Park to convince people of the infallibility of God's word. It is thetime of the fulfilment of prophecy concerning the last days, of which Paul says,

"This know also, that in the last days perilous times shall come. For men shall be lovers of their own selves, covetous, boasters, proud, blasphemers, disobedient to parents, unthankful, unholy, Without natural affection, truce-breakers, false accusers, incontinent, fierce, despisers of those that are good, Traitors, heady, highminded, LOVERS OF PLEASURES MORE THAN LOVERS OF GOD" (2 Tim. 3:1-5).

Many pleasure seekers are now thronging Yellowstone Park, and in ten thousand demonstrations are having to face the realities of God's word and the life that is to come. I saw some of them standing near the yawning craters of the geysers under deep conviction, and no doubt silently resolving to live different lives, while others frankly stated that the depths of their beings had been disturbed, and that it was no time to trifle with the soul.

There is no such thing as shirking the responsibility, where Nature co-operates with the Almighty on such a tremendous scale in the display of His power. A person may try to stifle his conscience and refuse to yield tothe voice that speaks from above, but he can not evade the fact that the issue must be met; and why not yield to the pressure and make the decision now? Life at best is short, and it is perilous to crowd into some future time the things that should be taken under consideration now.


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