Courtesy That Means Cordial Relations for Many Years—Eight Hundred Guns Proclaim Peace—President Montt Reviews Ships and Congratulates by Wireless—Wonderful Sailing of the Battleships Amid Thick Fog on the Rolling Pacific—Formation Preserved in the Dark—Great Scene in the Sunlight as the Armada Swept In Near the Shore and Thundered Salutations to Vast Throng of Chileans—The Animated "Welcome" Sign—Meeting With the Chicago.
On Board U.S.S. Louisiana, U. S. Battle Fleet,
At Sea, Feb. 15.
ANact of international courtesy, unprecedented in American naval annals at least, and probably unprecedented in the world's history, occurred yesterday in the harbor of Valparaiso, Chile, when Admiral Evans sailed in and out of the harbor, saluting the port and then the President of Chile in person. It was a demonstration which in not only its immediate but its far-reaching effects was worth probably more than a quarter of a century's exchange of diplomatic notes and expressions.
Moreover, for sundry reasons which the intelligent observer of more or less recent events can appreciate, there was no better place on the South American continent for such a remarkable performance. Especially gratifying to Admiral Evans were the cordial messages of thanks and esteem he received by wireless. The last time he sailed away from Valparaiso kind words did not follow him. Thus does time and a marked advance in naval power work wonders in international affairs.
The greatest honors that the fleet of any nation could pay to the head of another nation were paid to President Montt. They were precisely such as the fleet paid to President Roosevelt on the departure from Hampton Roads. They differed only in their setting. The flag of another republic was at the main. Three times as many people witnessed the spectacle in Valparaiso as observed it in Hampton Roads. The saluting was in a foreign port, girt about with lofty hills instead of the low lying and far distant shores of Chesapeake Bay. Elaborately dressed shipping, flying the flags of half a dozen nations, added color to the scheme.
A great city terraced up the mountain sides made a holiday to gaze, first in silence and then with cheers, at an armada which meant not conquest but a visible message of safety from conquest by European Powers, and an assurance that not only Chile but every other Power in South or Central America could pursue the path of commercial and intellectual development secure from the envy and avarice of other parts of the world. Exhibiting that fleet to Chile was like showing her a paid-up, interminable insurance policy of peace, made out in the name of all American peoples. Judging from the responses it elicited Chile liked the way the policy read.
Few harbors in the world are better adapted for such a scene. There is no deep bay, no narrow channel to choke the entrance. The harbor is simply an open roadstead ofthe Pacific. All that Admiral Evans had to do was to turn to one side, sweep along the city front just outside the line of moored shipping and pass on. He was on the broad swells of the Pacific again within an hour from the time he had turned in shore. It was an hour of education for Chile, with a lesson in it that otherwise she could not learn in years, and at its conclusion there was such a genuine note of appreciation in the exchange of farewells that any student of the forces that work for good or evil in international affairs must have been glad that the courtesy call was made.
One also could understand somewhat the feelings of Admiral Evans, who, after it was all over, sent this characteristic Evans message to the fleet in words that every man on every ship understood thoroughly:
"The Commander-in-Chief thanks the officers and men of the fleet for the handsome way they did the trick to-day."
It was handsome and it was stirring. Of course the word trick was used by the Admiral only in a colloquial sense; there was no trick about it, for it was simply going a little out of the way to be nice and decent to a people who for many years had mistrusted us and had said things too. But what is the use of being a big nation if you can't be big hearted with it and show that you don't hold resentments? A thousand to one that Chile's sincere friendship will be ours for many, many years to come.
Unusual as this cruise is, it is the unusual and unexpected that have come out from it as its salient features. The profound indifference of the people of Trinidad to the fleet was unusual and something of a bump. The exuberant welcome and unrestrained hospitality of Brazil wasunusual. The salutes to the flags exchanged between the fleets of Argentina and the United States on the high seas were unusual. The despatch of a cruiser on the part of Chile to its most remote port and carrying our Minister was unusual. The Vice-Admiral salutes given all along the line to Admiral Evans, whether by accident or design, were unusual. Having a warship escort the fleet through almost the entire length of its coast line, as Chile did, was unusual. Lastly the departure from an established programme to run into the greatest harbor of another nation to fire salutes to its flag and President was unusual.
From the moment that the fleet headed out into the Pacific from the Strait of Magellan, in company with the flagship Chacabuco carrying the flag of Admiral Simpson of the Chilean navy, there was much speculation as to the kind of reception it would receive in Valparaiso. The great cordiality shown by Admiral Simpson and the Chilean authorities in Punta Arenas bespoke the warmest kind of a welcome. But speculation still continued, and indeed there was little else to do, for a fog settled upon the waters, which, added to the turbulent condition of the Pacific, made the trip for several days one of comparative gloom. Occasionally the fog would lift and you could catch a glimpse of some of the other divisions of the fleet. Once after nearly twenty-four hours it vanished completely and there was a genuine ring of satisfaction over the sight it must have presented to the Chacabuco far off to the westward, for there was the entire American fleet exactly in position, sailing precisely as if there had been no fog to hide the ships from one another. But everybody knew that it would be so.
"That's going some; wonder what the Chilean Admiral thinks of that?" was heard on all sides.
Then the fog shut in again and for two days more the fleet ploughed on. It was in a column of divisions formation, that is, the four ships of the first division were abreast of one another and 400 yards apart. Twelve hundred yards astern the ships of the second division were in a similar formation. The third and fourth followed in the same way. Sometimes the fog was so thick that on the Louisiana, which was on the left flank of the first line, we couldn't see our nearest neighbor, the Vermont. The Connecticut, off to the right, would toot her letter on the whistle, the Kansas would toot hers at once and then the Vermont would sound hers, followed by the Louisiana. The steering was done by compass almost entirely. Occasionally we would find the Vermont inching over to us and she would loom up out of the fog quite near, but her whistle would say:
"Give me a little more room, please; the Kansas is crowding me over. When she goes back toward the flagship, or the flagship eases off a bit, I'll go back. Just a little room, please!"
Then the Louisiana would swing off and a fog bank would cut off sight of each other. Then there would be another lift and it would be found that one ship was a hundred yards or so ahead of the others, or perhaps that they were exactly in line. The searchlights on the ships were thrown abeam so that for most of the time it was comparatively easy to tell where your immediate neighbor was. Sometimes we could hear the ships of the other divisions whistling faintly and we wondered whether the fleet formation had been broken seriously by currents or faultysteering, but every time the fog lightened there the ships were, shifted now and then a little, but in the main exactly where they should be.
Then the Chacabuco signalled that she intended to run into Talcahuano, the Chilean naval port, and would send messages of our safe passage through Magellan and also notify the Chilean authorities of the hour of our arrival in Valparaiso. The two Admirals had agreed upon 2 o'clock on the afternoon of Friday, February 14. The day after the Chacabuco left, the air cleared. She agreed to meet us again at noon on February 13 at a certain latitude and longitude and sure enough shortly after 8 o'clock on the 13th, her smoke and that of three torpedo boats accompanying her was made out. On they came and they were abeam at exactly noon. Behind them was a large passenger steamer, loaded down with folks from Concepcion, Chile. That ship ran close to the fleet and gave its passengers a fine view. Then those in the fleet knew that Chile took intense interest in the passage.
It was necessary to slow to nine, then to eight and then to seven knots so as not to reach Valparaiso ahead of time. The sea calmed, the sun came out and a more perfect afternoon was never witnessed on the ocean.
Daybreak on the morning of the 14th showed a lowering sky. Just before 9 o'clock the Chilean coast could be made out and then the fleet made one or two turns and twists, apparently to kill a little time. Admiral Simpson took his place at the head of the column which had been formed and his three torpedo boats took up positions on our right flank, the side nearest to the city in the harbor, so as to protect the line from any intrusion. Just before 1o'clock we could make out the people on the high hills south of Angeles Point, fittingly named for a great cemetery sloped up the hillside. The place was black with spectators. Around the point we could see the puffs of a salute, given probably by one of the forts or ships to note the arrival of President Montt. Then we came close to Angeles Point. The beach was thronged. There were tents where jimcracks were being sold and double decker tram cars were loaded to the limit. It seemed as if all Valparaiso had come out to that place. The glasses were turned upon Fort Valdivia, just beyond Point Angeles. It is a naval station.
Suddenly a midshipman discovered that there was a sign in English on one of its terraces. It said:
"Welcome!"
"That's mighty nice to whitewash a lot of stones in that way, isn't it?" said an officer on the bridge.
Three minutes later the navigator sang out:
"Captain, that sign isn't made of stones. It's made of men!"
A dozen glasses were focussed upon the sign at once. Sure enough, stretched upon the terrace there lay a human sign, made up of sailors or naval cadets in white. It took three mens' length to make the height of a single letter. Two men were required for the top and the bottom of the letter O. These men must not have been entirely comfortable for they lay there fully an hour, but the sign was as immobile as if it were made of stone. That compliment touched the kindly feeling of every one on the ships. It made a sensation. No one had ever seen anything like that. There was no way of answering it in kind, as you can insaluting; you could only look at it in dumb amazement and feel grateful.
You were glad then that the compliment had been paid to Admiral Simpson of allowing him to lead the fleet in with his little cruiser—no Chilean naval officer ever had such a post of honor—and all the ships took keen notice of the signal from the flagship to fire a simultaneous salute of twenty-one guns when notice should be given. As the fleet turned in the glasses revealed a large collection of ships, some of them old whalers, lying in the harbor. Grand stands had been built on various eminences for the people and hundreds of white parasols showed that the fair sex was alive to the great sea-show.
Half an hour before the fleet approached the harbor it was noticed that a great canopy of blue sky rested over it. Out where the fleet was it was still lowering. Abreast of Fort Valdivia the fleet emerged into the sunshine and stood clearly revealed. Every ship had a bright new American ensign at its gaff and foretruck. At every main there was a Chilean ensign. A fresh breeze started up and blew the ensigns out proudly. Nature helped dress the ships in their best.
Around Point Angeles the Connecticut swept slowly and majestically. She got well inside the harbor and was almost abeam of Duprat Point when a set of flags fluttered to the signal yards. They said:
"Prepare to salute!"
The flags hung there until all the answering pennants were shown and then they wavered an instant as they began to fall, and at once the sixteen battleships roared out a salvo such as no one in Chile had ever heard before. Theeffect of the thunder was electric. The wind fortunately blew the smoke away from the ships. People on the shore were seen to jump and run. All along the shore line below Fort Valdivia they began to race back toward the city and harbor by the thousands. It was literally a stampede. Great clouds of dust engulfed them and partly hid them from view. It made those on the ships laugh.
"The town has gone out too far and now has to run back," they said.
Not so; a glimpse along the waterfront showed that what Lieut. Gherardi, commanding the little Yankton, which had arrived the day before and was anchored in the harbor, all beautifully dressed, had sent by wireless early in the morning was true. Gherardi said there was intense interest in the fleet and all the stores and banks had closed for the day. A clear space in front of the shipping was preserved. Hundreds of launches, sailboats and rowboats were out on the water. The hills were black. The highways running down to the waterfront were filled. Flags were everywhere. All Valparaiso was out to see the great parade, and for a time it seemed that she was looking on in awe. Then there came sounds of cheering from shore and occasionally the sound of "The Star Spangled Banner" was heard as some band played it.
In less than two minutes after the fleet had fired its salute Fort Valdivia responded with twenty-one guns. Then three or four miles across the harbor at the other entrance puffs of smoke could be seen, showing that an army fort was giving its greeting and saying:
"Glad to see you!"
Admiral Simpson sent a message to Admiral Evans thatPresident Montt was on the training ship Gen. Baquedano, clear across the harbor, near Fort Callao, which had fired the army salute. The fleet went into the harbor, made a slight turn and then sailed for about half a mile in a straight line close to the shipping and about a mile from shore. Then it curved away again toward the harbor entrance, following the lead of the Chacabuco. It now closed the entire harbor. Silently it approached an anchored training ship, whose yards were manned. The ship was crowded with high governmental functionaries and their families and friends. In one corner of the bridge the President could be made out with glasses. The Chilean ensign with a coat of arms on it, the President's standard, was at the main. When within 100 yards of the Baquedano the Chacabuco began its salute of twenty-one guns to the flag of its President. A slight interval of silence followed and then the Connecticut roared out its personal greeting to the head of another nation. As each American ship approached it fired twenty-one guns. The air was filled with smoke, but the strong breeze blew it away and set the sixteen ensigns of Chile and the thirty-two of the United States all vibrating and snapping out almost as plainly as if you could hear it:
"Hurrah!"
In solemn state the ships passed the uncovered President. He received then and there such a tribute of honor as no other President of Chile ever received. He saw a collection of warships such as no other South American President, with the exception of President Penna of Brazil, ever saw. He had the satisfaction of witnessing a friendly tribute such as no other nation ever received from the UnitedStates. Whatever was the effect upon the President and the people of Chile, it thrilled those on the American warships.
For a mile or two beyond the Chacabuco led the fleet and then it turned and fired a salute to the American flag as it headed back to Valparaiso. The Connecticut answered with twenty-one guns for the Chilean flag, signalled to resume the cruising speed of ten knots—and the spectacular call on the President of Chile and the people of its chief seaport was over. Altogether nearly 800 guns were fired in the saluting. It was like the roar of a battle.
In ten minutes after the Connecticut had fired its salute to the President and before some of the American ships had begun theirs Admiral Evans sent this message to Admiral Simpson on the Chacabuco:
To Admiral Simpson:The Commander-in-Chief of the United States Atlantic fleet begs that you will convey to the President of the republic in the name of himself, officers and men, their appreciation of the honor he has done them in reviewing the fleet. Please add to this my personal expression of highest regard. In saying good-by to you, Admiral Simpson, may I express the hope that we may meet again in the future, and let me convey herein to you the sincere thanks of myself, officers and men of the Atlantic fleet for the many acts of courtesy you have extended to us. We wish you good health and all success.Evans.
To Admiral Simpson:
The Commander-in-Chief of the United States Atlantic fleet begs that you will convey to the President of the republic in the name of himself, officers and men, their appreciation of the honor he has done them in reviewing the fleet. Please add to this my personal expression of highest regard. In saying good-by to you, Admiral Simpson, may I express the hope that we may meet again in the future, and let me convey herein to you the sincere thanks of myself, officers and men of the Atlantic fleet for the many acts of courtesy you have extended to us. We wish you good health and all success.
Evans.
Then Admiral Evans sent this to our Minister, Mr. Hicks, on the Chacabuco:
To Minister Hicks:I beg that you will express to the President of the republic the thanks of the officers and men of the Atlantic fleet for the many gracious acts of courtesy we have received from the representatives ofthe Chilean Government since reaching their coast. I am sure that the people of the United States will fully appreciate the courtesies and that they will go far toward cementing the friendship between the two nations. With expressions of highest consideration for you personally, I remain, yours sincerely,Evans.
To Minister Hicks:
I beg that you will express to the President of the republic the thanks of the officers and men of the Atlantic fleet for the many gracious acts of courtesy we have received from the representatives ofthe Chilean Government since reaching their coast. I am sure that the people of the United States will fully appreciate the courtesies and that they will go far toward cementing the friendship between the two nations. With expressions of highest consideration for you personally, I remain, yours sincerely,
Evans.
In five minutes the replies were being heard in every wireless room of the American ships. This is what Admiral Simpson said:
To Connecticut:Many thanks for your very kind message which I will convey with the greatest of pleasure to the President, and my personal thanks for your good wishes in regard to myself and officers. They join in their good wishes for Admiral Evans and send a hearty farewell greeting to the Admiral and his officers and men and wish them all a most successful and prosperous voyage.Simpson.
To Connecticut:
Many thanks for your very kind message which I will convey with the greatest of pleasure to the President, and my personal thanks for your good wishes in regard to myself and officers. They join in their good wishes for Admiral Evans and send a hearty farewell greeting to the Admiral and his officers and men and wish them all a most successful and prosperous voyage.
Simpson.
Mr. Hicks said:
To Admiral Evans:Your message just received. I will deliver it to President Montt immediately. Kindest regards to you and your officers. The whole review was all that any one should ask for and I am proud of the fleet. Good-by and good luck to you.Hicks.
To Admiral Evans:
Your message just received. I will deliver it to President Montt immediately. Kindest regards to you and your officers. The whole review was all that any one should ask for and I am proud of the fleet. Good-by and good luck to you.
Hicks.
Then Admiral Simpson sent this greeting from President Montt to Admiral Evans:
To Connecticut:The President instructs me to thank Admiral Evans for his very kind message and for having brought the American fleet to Valparaiso and to express to him his admiration of its splendid appearance. He further requests me to express to Admiral Evans his sincere hopes that his health will continue to improve and his personal desire that he may arrive at his destination in perfect health.Simpson.
To Connecticut:
The President instructs me to thank Admiral Evans for his very kind message and for having brought the American fleet to Valparaiso and to express to him his admiration of its splendid appearance. He further requests me to express to Admiral Evans his sincere hopes that his health will continue to improve and his personal desire that he may arrive at his destination in perfect health.
Simpson.
This was followed by this message from Minister Prato of the Army and Navy of Chile and it pleased Admiral Evans immensely:
To Admiral Evans:The Minister of War and the Navy, in the name of the republic of Chile, thanks profoundly Admiral Evans for the delicate courtesy of his salute in Valparaiso and congratulates him, the Admirals, Captains, officers and crews under him, for the splendid demonstration given us to-day of seeing the power and discipline of the fleet under your command. With many cordial wishes for a pleasant voyage and also for the recovery of your health at an early date,Belisario Prato,Minister of War and the Navy.
To Admiral Evans:
The Minister of War and the Navy, in the name of the republic of Chile, thanks profoundly Admiral Evans for the delicate courtesy of his salute in Valparaiso and congratulates him, the Admirals, Captains, officers and crews under him, for the splendid demonstration given us to-day of seeing the power and discipline of the fleet under your command. With many cordial wishes for a pleasant voyage and also for the recovery of your health at an early date,
Belisario Prato,
Minister of War and the Navy.
To this greeting Admiral Evans sent the final message of the day through the Yankton:
To Yankton:Transmit this to the Minister of War and the Navy Prato. The cordial welcome extended by the officials and citizens of the Republic of Chile has met with our deep appreciation, and I am sure that it will be a source of great gratification to the people of the United States when they learn how you have greeted us. It was a great pleasure to be reviewed by your distinguished President, and it gave me the greatest satisfaction to extend to him the same honors that were extended to the President of the United States on leaving Hampton Roads. Hoping that my action of to-day may in some small way draw closer the bonds of friendship which unite the two great republics and thanking you most gratefully for your personal expressions,Yours most sincerely,Evans.
To Yankton:
Transmit this to the Minister of War and the Navy Prato. The cordial welcome extended by the officials and citizens of the Republic of Chile has met with our deep appreciation, and I am sure that it will be a source of great gratification to the people of the United States when they learn how you have greeted us. It was a great pleasure to be reviewed by your distinguished President, and it gave me the greatest satisfaction to extend to him the same honors that were extended to the President of the United States on leaving Hampton Roads. Hoping that my action of to-day may in some small way draw closer the bonds of friendship which unite the two great republics and thanking you most gratefully for your personal expressions,
Yours most sincerely,
Evans.
It was a good day's work, and even if it did cause the fleet to lose a day in the run to Callao in addition to the one lost in Punta Arenas in answering the courtesies of the Chileans, no one begrudged the delay.
The appearance of the city of Valparaiso was a distinctdisappointment to those on the fleet who had not seen it before. Its name means a Vale of Paradise. Was it intended as mockery? One travel writer has said that nature never meant that a city should be planted there. The hills come down so near to the water that there is room for only four or five streets parallel with it. The city is strung along the harbor for more than two miles. To find other room for itself it has to climb steep hills and build homes on terraces. The streams have made great gullies, or barrancas, in their courses to the sea, and these gulches give a disjointed appearance to the place. There seems to be no continuity about it. It is irregular, tilted here and there and most of the hills have to be overcome with steep railroads, like those which climb the hills of Pittsburg or Cincinnati. A line of railroad with English carriages runs along the waterfront. The railroad finds an opening, not visible from the harbor, where it may escape the girdle of the hills. There seem to be few houses around the waterfront.
There was little or no color in the buildings. All seemed to be made of grayish mud. There was no visible verdure in the town. The hills were brown, as if blighted by a great drought. All was bleak and bare and dusty. The place looked barren and almost cheerless. A greater contrast to hill and mountain adorned Rio de Janeiro, the last large city we saw, heavy with its mantle of green, could not be imagined than this sun-baked, brown collection of dull-colored buildings constituting a great seaport. The effects of the earthquake of last year could be seen here and there with a glass. Walls were broken and buildings toppled over. This added all the more to the forlorn appearanceof the place, but it gave point to the exuberant welcome which its people gave to the fleet.
The day before the fleet sailed into Valparaiso harbor it had a little celebration, somewhat unusual on the high seas, that was strictly American. The cruiser Chicago, bound for the Atlantic from San Francisco, met us. Wireless signals had been exchanged and about 3 o'clock in the afternoon the smoke of the Chicago could be made out on the horizon. An hour later she was approaching the flagship. Then she saluted the Admiral's flag. Every ship had been told to show passing honors. The guard was paraded, the rails manned and the band was on the quarterdeck. The fleet and the Chicago almost drifted by one another. As the Chicago passed down the line the band on every battleship played "The Star Spangled Banner." When the bars were finished on the Louisiana the band struck up "Home, Sweet Home." The long homeward bound pennant of the Chicago seemed to have an extra flutter in it as the notes sounded over the smooth sea. In many a man's throat there was a gulp. After the fleet had passed the Chicago hove to and lay for a quarter of an hour, all its men gazing as a fond relative after another for which fate had decreed a long separation.
It was a pretty ceremony, and it furnished food for naval thought. There was the first steel ship of the United States navy, the flagship of the White Squadron of more than twenty years ago of which Americans were so proud. She seemed a puny thing beside any one of this fleet. The earliest and the latest in modern American warship building were presented to the eye. And what an advance! Still the Chicago presented a smart appearance and her8-inch guns, with which she holds the navy record, told that she was still useful and she could hold up her head proudly. Every one was glad she was still in existence. Right then and there many a young American naval officer got a better idea of the growth and strength of the navy than most of his books and his study could reveal to him.
Whatever may have been the motive that impelled President Roosevelt to send this fleet on its long journey to the Pacific—whether it was to dare Japan to resent it or to serve notice on that nation to be good; whether it was for political effect on the Pacific Coast in the hope of rounding up delegates for some one candidate for President or electing some man United States Senator; whether it was in accord with some suggestion perhaps that Secretary Root made in his trip to South America; whether it was simply a desire to be spectacular; whether it was a sincere belief that the navy needed just such a cruise to fit it for its best work and the Pacific was as much entitled to see how it could be protected as the Atlantic; whether it was for any or all of these, and all have been suggested in print—whatever it was, let this be said as to the unexpected and to some extent unforeseen advantages that have resulted:
The Monroe Doctrine is to-day more of a living, vital thing with the nations of South America because of the cruise of this fleet than it has ever been since President Monroe penned its words.
Gracious and Artistic and Inspired by Cordial Friendship—Sailors in the Bullring—Work of the Matadors Considered From a Nautical Point of View—Interchange of Good Wishes by Admiral Thomas and President Pardo—Charms of a City That Survives From the Middle Ages—Trip 15,000 Feet Up the Andes—Remains of Pizarro—Journalistic Compliments and Official Entertainments.
On Board U.S.S. Louisiana, U. S. Battle Fleet,
Off Callao Harbor, Feb. 29.
PERUremembered!
Almost as trite as the saying that corporations have no souls, or that politics makes strange bed fellows, is another that in international affairs the friends of yesterday may be the foes of to-day, and that nations, as nations, have no memories. If it is true, Peru is the rule proving exception. Her gracious welcome to the American fleet, from the first acclaim of greeting to the last farewell, was marked by a sincerity that was peculiar in the exchange of international courtesies.
There was reason for this. Of all South American countries none is more devotedly the friend of the United States than Peru. In the time of Peru's direct distress, when the hell horrors of war left her plundered, sacked, pillaged,as no nation in modern times has been despoiled; when she was bereft of nearly her entire population of early manhood; when dynamite and the torch were employed in a heartless exhibition of brutality to mark as permanently as possible the pathway of a mocking conquerer; when the vandalism of victory even destroyed the trees of botanical gardens, robbed altars of decorations, cut paintings from frames to make bonfires, pillaged the savings of children, destroyed civic utilities for the sake of wanton destruction; when the conqueror struck the most terrible blow that a conqueror can strike, the violation of the sanctity of homes—and be it remembered that the women of Peru are declared by all authority to be the most beautiful, proud and high spirited in the world—when all this was done, the first nation to comfort, to advise, to shield was the United States.
True, once or twice the United States seemed to falter and Peru almost cried out with bitterness because of it, but there was another handclasp with sincere words of real friendship back of it and Peru emerged from her trial grateful and steadfast. That was a quarter of a century ago and Peru said she would remember. Her hospitality to the great American fleet proved that she did. She is no longer poverty stricken. She is fairly well-to-do and things are looking better all the time. She lives in comfort. She even wears colors occasionally. She has young men again and their energy is making for prosperity and advancement all around. To the American fleet Peru said as plainly as could be:
"I am truly glad to see you. We can't do as much for you in the way of entertainment as our hearts could wish.We can't lavish wealth upon you, but such as we have is yours, all yours. We have remembered."
And so it was that Peru's entertainment of the fleet was not extravagant or burdensome. It was delicate rather than effusive. It was the welcome and hospitality of high breeding. From the first gun of the cruiser Bolognesi, sent 250 miles out to sea to escort the fleet in to Callao, to the last "Eep! Eep! Eep! Oorah!" on the tug that followed us furthest to sea as we left this morning every act of hospitality was in perfect taste and in a spirit utterly foreign to vulgar display.
Yes, Peru remembered, and its effect upon the American visitors was well expressed officially by Rear Admiral Thomas on board the Connecticut on February 27 at a dinner given in honor of President Pardo when he said:
"Nothing has been left undone that would add to our convenience, comfort or happiness, and, permit me to say, as military men, with the instinct of organization, we have been impressed with the perfection of every detail and the artistic taste displayed at every entertainment from the time the fleet dropped anchor in Callao Bay to the occasion of the brilliant garden party at the exposition grounds. But most important of all, and that which has touched our hearts deeply, is the warmth and sincerity of the welcome that has been accorded to us, so patent to all.
"In our fleet there are nearly six hundred officers and fourteen thousand men, and when we reach home waters and in the course of time these officers and men are dispersed throughout the forty-five States of the Union, visiting their respective homes, each and every one of them will be a missionary to carry a message throughout our broadland from the Atlantic to the Pacific, from the Canadian border to the Gulf of Mexico, telling of this welcome, the result of which must of necessity tend to the drawing closer and closer the ties of union between the two republics. It will be a tradition to be handed down not only to our children, but to our children's children."
The Admiral's speech was the fleet's answer to the formal welcome of President Pardo at a dinner the republic gave to the Americans on the night of Washington's Birthday. This translation of the President's words was placed in front of each of the guests the instant President Pardo finished.
Admiral: The arrival at our shores of American warships has always been looked forward to with the greatest pleasure by the Government of Peru and her citizens, as it gives us an opportunity for showing the true friendship which exists between this country and the United States and for my countrymen to extend a cordial welcome to the American Navy.Were it possible our welcome would be augmented by the glorious spectacle which you present us in Callao of the starry banner waving from the masts of the most powerful fleet that has ever navigated the Pacific Ocean, as well as by your most successful accomplishment of this difficult voyage, which demonstrates the power and discipline of the American Navy, to-day universally acknowledged by the entire world.With the sincere welcome of the Government and the people of Peru we wish to express our admiration of the justice which has inspired President Roosevelt's policy in the relations of the United States with the Latin-American countries and their relations between themselves, a policy which has met with the utmost success in the recent conference at Washington and assures a permanent peace in Central America.A welcome to you, Admirals and officers of the American fleet. Peru receives you with hearty friendship and reminds you that you are on friendly strands.On this day, when your country honors the memory of GeorgeWashington, the founder of its glorious independence and of its admirable form of government, I ask you to join me in the toast I propose.The prosperity of the United States, the health of its eminent President, Mr. Roosevelt, and that good luck may always accompany the fleet under your command.
Admiral: The arrival at our shores of American warships has always been looked forward to with the greatest pleasure by the Government of Peru and her citizens, as it gives us an opportunity for showing the true friendship which exists between this country and the United States and for my countrymen to extend a cordial welcome to the American Navy.
Were it possible our welcome would be augmented by the glorious spectacle which you present us in Callao of the starry banner waving from the masts of the most powerful fleet that has ever navigated the Pacific Ocean, as well as by your most successful accomplishment of this difficult voyage, which demonstrates the power and discipline of the American Navy, to-day universally acknowledged by the entire world.
With the sincere welcome of the Government and the people of Peru we wish to express our admiration of the justice which has inspired President Roosevelt's policy in the relations of the United States with the Latin-American countries and their relations between themselves, a policy which has met with the utmost success in the recent conference at Washington and assures a permanent peace in Central America.
A welcome to you, Admirals and officers of the American fleet. Peru receives you with hearty friendship and reminds you that you are on friendly strands.
On this day, when your country honors the memory of GeorgeWashington, the founder of its glorious independence and of its admirable form of government, I ask you to join me in the toast I propose.
The prosperity of the United States, the health of its eminent President, Mr. Roosevelt, and that good luck may always accompany the fleet under your command.
So much for the official welcome. The unofficial welcome was everywhere. It began as soon as the ships entered Callao Bay. There are no headlands or hills surrounding the harbor, which is practically an open roadstead. The fleet had to anchor two miles out. The harbor was crowded with all sorts of little craft laden to the danger point. Every tug, every launch, all the sailboats that could be found, rowing barges, dories, two large ocean-going steamers, came out to say howdy and bearing cheering people by the thousand. Some of the little craft fired national salutes with toy cannon. Those that had whistles tied down the cords. One tug was crowded with young men who insisted on giving the Cornell yell every time a ship passed by.
As soon as anchors were cast a look shoreward revealed that tens of thousands had come to the waterfront. Later when one went ashore he learned that the Government had declared a holiday in honor of the arrival of the fleet and that all of Callao and Lima, seven miles distant, had come down to see the ships. The stores and shops were closed as if it were Sunday. Business was at a standstill. Official visits were begun at once, but those who could get away made haste to go to Lima on the modern trolley system which in addition to two railroads accommodates the traffic between the two cities.
The visitor noted that Callao was an ill smelling place ofgarish colored houses and narrow streets—a mere port of 40,000 inhabitants—and that it had many of the characteristics of some of the cities on the southern shore of the Mediterranean. Once out in the flat country, the visitor was reminded somewhat of the country between Brooklyn and Coney Island. Truck farms were frequent. What looked to be American corn was growing profusely side by side with banana trees and sugarcane fields. Patches of good old fashioned vegetables—onions, cabbages, radishes, lettuce—were also under cultivation. Large herds of fine cattle grazed on some of the fields, and in others were herded splendid flocks of sheep. It looked almost like home. The fences alone were strange. They were made of thick blocks of dried mud. The entire cultivation was dependent upon irrigation from the Rimac River, the splendid mountain stream that dashes down from the Andes in a torrent clear to the sea.
Then one came to Lima itself, situated on a plain girdled by the foothills of the Andes, with its low lying houses, all made of mud plastered upon bamboo reeds, with not a roof in the city that would shed water, for in Lima it never rains; to Lima, the one city in the Western Hemisphere which has preserved a large amount of the architecture of the Middle Ages and is rich in traditions of the past. There in this city of 150,000 people with its well paved streets, its bustling activities, its fine climate (the temperature never goes above 80 degrees, although the city is only 12 degrees from the equator) and attractive people the Americans found plastered on every building in town a paper reproduction of the American flag with the words printed on it:
"Welcome to the American fleet!"
Peru's flag was posted by its side frequently. The Government had done it. You see every person in town couldn't come up to you and tell you that he or she was glad to see you. He or she was; but it had to be told in some other way, and so these placards voiced the feeling of the people. If anything else were needed to complete the greeting it was supplied when theDiario, the leading newspaper of Lima, came out with halftone reproductions of ships, officers and the Annapolis Academy, a page of news in English from the United States and a formal welcome to the fleet. This welcome was unique. It is worth reproducing at length. This is what it said:
Every social class in our country, all the elements which make up the life of Peru, have attended with sincere exhilaration to contemplate the gallant representatives of the power and greatness of the United States.These ships come after a trial of resistance which has proved the discipline, the self-denial, the moral energy, the patriotic pride of race, all those eminent faculties which beautify the spirit and elevate the personality of the great republic of the north.Peru has the glory and good fortune among the nations of America to offer its hospitable strand to serve as a shelter during the short stay which their itinerary imposes on our guests.Peru receives them with the affection of brothers, with the traditional and courteous nobleness of our race, with the sympathetic and respectful admiration which the example of the great and lofty North American virtues awaken in our mind.A people which has itself worked up in its own laboratory such a colossal fermentation of greatness, a people which owes everything to the efforts, to the activity, to the work, to the initiative of its men, a people which has not forsworn the splendid incentives of its ideals, and which carries within itself as a secret impulse to irradiate its spirit beyond its natural boundaries, is a people which raises in all others the warm and ample admiration which the Americans have experienced in the entire course of their voyage.The powerful fleet which to-day reaches our shores, the most formidable and splendid which has stemmed the waters of this continent, does not come on a war footing or as a menace. A high sense of political prevision, the most eminent virtue of a statesman, induced President Roosevelt to order the movement of the Atlantic fleet to the Pacific coast. The illustrious governor who carries on his shoulders the enormous responsibility of directing this great people has proved himself worthy of his post, contemplating with serenity and firmness all future eventualities, and consistent with his pacific intentions, which do not exclude designs of warlike prudence, has prepared himself by this spirited parade of force to prevent a war.No technical authority, either military or diplomatic, believes in the probability or imminence of a great war. The United States have many efficacious resources for dissolving or removing indefinitely the threatening and apocalyptic spectre of a universal conflagration such as would take place in the world, given the present aggrupations of factors.Their economic strength, their marvellous industrial richness, their bullion reserves, their growing population, their formidable means of attack and defence which we contemplate to-day, all these are so many conservative encouragements which will help to check audacity and outside ambition.
Every social class in our country, all the elements which make up the life of Peru, have attended with sincere exhilaration to contemplate the gallant representatives of the power and greatness of the United States.
These ships come after a trial of resistance which has proved the discipline, the self-denial, the moral energy, the patriotic pride of race, all those eminent faculties which beautify the spirit and elevate the personality of the great republic of the north.
Peru has the glory and good fortune among the nations of America to offer its hospitable strand to serve as a shelter during the short stay which their itinerary imposes on our guests.
Peru receives them with the affection of brothers, with the traditional and courteous nobleness of our race, with the sympathetic and respectful admiration which the example of the great and lofty North American virtues awaken in our mind.
A people which has itself worked up in its own laboratory such a colossal fermentation of greatness, a people which owes everything to the efforts, to the activity, to the work, to the initiative of its men, a people which has not forsworn the splendid incentives of its ideals, and which carries within itself as a secret impulse to irradiate its spirit beyond its natural boundaries, is a people which raises in all others the warm and ample admiration which the Americans have experienced in the entire course of their voyage.
The powerful fleet which to-day reaches our shores, the most formidable and splendid which has stemmed the waters of this continent, does not come on a war footing or as a menace. A high sense of political prevision, the most eminent virtue of a statesman, induced President Roosevelt to order the movement of the Atlantic fleet to the Pacific coast. The illustrious governor who carries on his shoulders the enormous responsibility of directing this great people has proved himself worthy of his post, contemplating with serenity and firmness all future eventualities, and consistent with his pacific intentions, which do not exclude designs of warlike prudence, has prepared himself by this spirited parade of force to prevent a war.
No technical authority, either military or diplomatic, believes in the probability or imminence of a great war. The United States have many efficacious resources for dissolving or removing indefinitely the threatening and apocalyptic spectre of a universal conflagration such as would take place in the world, given the present aggrupations of factors.
Their economic strength, their marvellous industrial richness, their bullion reserves, their growing population, their formidable means of attack and defence which we contemplate to-day, all these are so many conservative encouragements which will help to check audacity and outside ambition.
This welcome is presented to show how Lima and the editors of theDiarioreally tried to make the Americans feel at ease. Of course the printed English translation failed to do full credit to the excellent Castilian of the original, but there could be no mistaking the genuineness of the welcome.
It was sincere all right, and no doubt there was a proud man in Lima as he contemplated the mass of fine words he had piled up. As soon as the paper came out and the Americans had passed the word along that it was great there was a rush to get it. The visitors stopped one another on the street corners to read it aloud and the general comment was:
"Fine! It makes us feel as if we were right back in Brooklyn. No such language as that can be read in a newspaper in any other place in the world except Brooklyn. Of course we are used to such expressions as 'colossal fermentation of greatness,' 'threatening and apocalyptic spectre,' 'aggrupations of factors' and the like of that in Brooklyn, but who would have imagined that we'd meet 'em so far from home?"
And as if that wasn't enough to make it plain to the Americans that the freedom of the place was theirs they were met at the terminal of the trolley line from Callao with men who distributed a pamphlet of information got out by a firm with American names, makers and purveyors of a popular libation. The title page bore this inscription:
"Here's happy days to the men of the American squadron!"
The inside of the pamphlet told salient facts and gave statistics about Callao and Lima, informed you how to get about, where to go and what to see among the "points of interest." The way it put the matter was this: "Over and above a hearty welcome, here's what's worth while." It advised the visitors to give the sexton of the Cathedral a tip for showing them Pizarro's bones, but said:
"Don't tip him too much or you'll spoil the market, 'cause this isn't New York."
Then the pamphlet said, sundry items of advertising being eliminated:
SPECIAL NOTES.—Drinksand theirPrices.—"Swear Words" and How to say them inspanish, etc.Cocktail 25 to 30 cts. peruvian equal to 15 cts. American. Whiskey,Gin, Sherry ("hair ace") Port (Oporto) etc. all cost the same. The Cocktails known here are, American, Martini, Whiskey, and Fresas (strawberry).No!is No! just as we say it, and the harder you pronounce it the better it is understood.Yes!si, pronounced "see."Vayago on, pronounced as spelt (Roseveltian, excuse this).Sigue no mas!(seegay no mas) Drive on!Corida de TorosBull-FightPlaza de TorosBull RingToroBullToreroBull FighterMatadorThe Killer, this is the man who finally does the trick.Fuera Toro!!!pronounced fuera toro, "put the Bull out. he's no good! Give us a Bull that Fights:"........!!........!!!........!!!!..........!!!!!.(Blank spaces for american expressions if your spanish runs short or thick.)While it isn't as fast as Coney Island, Luna Park, Steeplechase, nor the Hippodrome, you'll move quite as "fast" if you get down into the Ring.Wishing you each and all a most pleasant sojourn in this "City of the Kings" and a bon voyage on your journey Northward.
SPECIAL NOTES.—Drinksand theirPrices.—"Swear Words" and How to say them inspanish, etc.
Cocktail 25 to 30 cts. peruvian equal to 15 cts. American. Whiskey,Gin, Sherry ("hair ace") Port (Oporto) etc. all cost the same. The Cocktails known here are, American, Martini, Whiskey, and Fresas (strawberry).
No!is No! just as we say it, and the harder you pronounce it the better it is understood.Yes!si, pronounced "see."Vayago on, pronounced as spelt (Roseveltian, excuse this).Sigue no mas!(seegay no mas) Drive on!Corida de TorosBull-FightPlaza de TorosBull RingToroBullToreroBull FighterMatadorThe Killer, this is the man who finally does the trick.Fuera Toro!!!pronounced fuera toro, "put the Bull out. he's no good! Give us a Bull that Fights:"
........!!........!!!........!!!!..........!!!!!.
(Blank spaces for american expressions if your spanish runs short or thick.)
While it isn't as fast as Coney Island, Luna Park, Steeplechase, nor the Hippodrome, you'll move quite as "fast" if you get down into the Ring.
Wishing you each and all a most pleasant sojourn in this "City of the Kings" and a bon voyage on your journey Northward.
Then began the exploration of Lima. Standing on one side of the beautiful Plaza de Armas is the great Cathedral, which was started in 1540 and which cost $9,000,000, despite the fact that its walls are of mud and, as one writer has said, could be run through with a fence rail in almost any place. It was the inside decoration that cost so much, for it has rare wood carvings, and once was fairly plastered with gold and silver stolen by Pizarro, "the pious old cutthroat," from the Incas. You see, Pizarro founded Lima in 1535, and although he was known as the "Indian butcher," he began right by establishing a Cathedral, and there his bones in a mummified condition rest. They arekept in a glass case and are in a crypt. An attendant takes you to the coffin, lights a candle for you to read the inscription on the case and to peer in and you get a first rate look at a mummy.
Pizarro undoubtedly knew his business well. He gathered in the millions upon millions that the Incas had saved up for a rainy day. It was explained that Pizarro had found out that it never rained where he intended to set up in Lima and therefore he told the Incas they really had no use for all that gold and he would take it, establish a city and give them real religion and be a missionary and all that for them.
"All of which," as a bluejacket who had been reading up the history of the place said, "he done good and proper."
Pizarro attracted the attention of thousands of the visitors. Not all were irreverent or flippant. Many of them paused a long time before the mortal remains of one the greatest men in history. You felt as if you were really at a shrine.
Then the explorers visited other churches which took one back to the Middle Ages. There was the Franciscan convent and church. There was the church where the remains of Santa Rosa, the only American woman saint, rest. Then there were numerous other edifices with old doors and heavy bolts and locks, and inside some of them were decorated with what seemed to be solid sheets of gold about their pillars; churches where there were beautiful old paintings of religious subjects, churches where the tiling was brought from Europe and is now almost priceless in value, churches where there were historic parchments.
The visitors then went to see the Senate Chamber, with its carved ceiling, one of the wonders of the world in that line; brought from Europe and paid for with Inca treasure in 1560. That room was used in the days of the Inquisition, which lasted longer in Peru than in Spain and was almost as terrible. In fact in this viceregal city, the second founded in the Americas by the Spanish, one could see religious emblems at every turn. Just outside the city on a hill overlooking the bullring is an enormous cross, probably fifty feet high. Every year the society that had it erected makes a pilgrimage up that hill after a parade in the city and holds services, wherein vows to uphold the faith and lead lives of purity and honor are retaken. On a dozen other hills crosses and shrines may be seen.
It is evident that Peru as a nation is still devout, but if one could have seen the crowd at the San Pedro Church on Sunday morning when the doors were opened and the beauty and high blood of Lima came out from their devotions he would have been convinced that Peru is really no exception to other Latin American countries, and indeed most other countries, in that the women are the mainstay of the church. That beauty parade is one of the sights of Lima, and the Americans, officers and men, were there, side by side with the men of the city to see the show.
As the visitors went about, one change, national in character, impressed itself upon them immediately. Every writer on Peru has commented on the fact that the headdress of the women, worn universally, is the black manta. It is said that it is a relic that has come down from the Incas when they put on mourning for their great chief Atahualpa. Rich and poor have worn that headdress onthe street for centuries. It was an established institution.
Well, it is going. About one-half of the women, some of them in good circumstances evidently, wore mantas on the streets, but as for the rest—well, a man has no business to write about women's hats. All that this man can say is that he never saw more dazzling specimens of flower gardens than those bobbing around over the graceful drapery with which the Peruvian women adorn themselves.
Thus does fashion war successfully upon established custom. The Peruvian woman loves a beautiful hat just as much as any other woman on earth. Moreover, what is said about her surpassing beauty is true. Given great beauty and the love of a hat on the part of a woman—what chance has a black manta got? The manta has got to go and is going. Truly this is a world of change and there are those who will say it is one of decay, but let no one breathe that in a fashionable millinery shop in Lima.
Then came more sightseeing. All the clubs of the city were thrown open. All the postal card shops had extra supplies.
"English Spoken Here" was posted on the windows and doors of scores of shops. One sign that was amusing to the Americans read: