"See! Winter comes to rule the varied year,Sullen and sad;"
"See! Winter comes to rule the varied year,Sullen and sad;"
and over the head of the Winter figure is placed a basket of walnuts, medlars, &c. Here is the frame of the cabinet, which contains about eighty drawers in fine walnut wood, enriched with fuschia drops in silver, and coral beads for drop handles; the wood work is relieved with silvered plate glass; also small doors with plate glass for needlework, in wild flowers. This completes the interior of the frame.
The exterior represents three carved doors, in fine relief: over Spring and Summer is the convolvulus, entwined round the frame; then follows the centre door, in fine relief—the grape vine, full of fruit, being very prominent. The door over Autumn and Winter is enriched with carvings of barley and hop vine. Between each of these doors are pilasters, forming four female figures, holding in their hands the emblems of the seasons, and a newly-invented glass dome head, in an elegant form, for the protection of knitted flowers in Berlin wool. The wood work is tastefully arranged, springing from each group of flowers over the heads of the femalefigures, with mouldings to receive the bent plate glass, and is enriched with fine carvings of fruit and flowers. At the extreme top of this glass dome stands a beautiful figure of Peace, with extended wings, bending over the globe, holding in one hand the olive branch, and with the other pointing to the Deity.
Having thus given a description of the carvings of this splendid cabinet, let me turn your attention to the enrichments in needlework, worked on black velvet, from nature, by Miss Kingsbury. The mottoes in frame for the different seasons are worked in floss silk of various colors; the inside doors—five in number—with wild flowers; and in front are rich specimens of raised embroidery, extending to the inside, and protected with plate glass. Miss Kingsbury is a young lady of Taunton, who has made this kind of work her peculiar forte.
Above the doors, also, are knitted flowers in Berlin wools, which fill the dome head, and are protected with bent plate glass. Almost every flower, as they bloom, are to be distinguished in these rich bouquets, with which the honeysuckle and passion flower are beautifully entwined.
Now, what think you of such a cabinet as this? Well, Charley, there are scores and scores of objects as much deserving a full description as this.
The department of machinery and steam poweris entirely beyond my ability to speak of in proper terms. I have little mechanical genius, and I never am more out of my element than When surrounded by fly wheels, cylinders, and walking beams.
If our friend Ike had been here, lie would have been perfectly at home; and his pleasure and profit in this department would have surpassed any I could experience. I have only glanced at a few of the wonderful things in this wonderful place, and yet I have far exceeded the bounds of an ordinary letter.
Yours affectionately,
j.o.c.
London.
Dear Charley:—
One evening this week we spent very pleasantly at the Royal Polytechnic Institution for the advancement of the arts and sciences in connection with agriculture and manufactures. There is a large theatre, where all sorts of lectures are delivered, at various hours, upon philosophical and other subjects. Lecturers occupy the theatre in succession, and take up about half an hour. These are generally men of respectable abilities. The building is full of curiosities. We saw the model of the human ear, about one hundred and forty times larger than the natural organ. We saw a diving bell in the greathall, which is frequently put into action, and visitors are allowed to descend. That evening several made the experiment. The interior of the bell is lighted by thick plate glass. A very large number of models are to be seen, and there is much to interest the spectator. We heard a fine lecture respecting the experiment of Foucault, by which the diurnal rotation of the earth is said to be rendered visible to the eye. Foucault is a young Parisian, who, whilst engaged in some investigations with a pendulum in his mother's cellar, made this discovery, as he claims it to be. We saw the experiment repeated here on the same scale as it has recently been shown at the Pantheon at Paris. A brass sphere, weighing about five pounds, was suspended from the lofty ceiling by a piece of music wire, and made to vibrate in one plane over a table graduated into degrees. After a few vibrations, the direction of the pendulum appeared to be changed, as though the table had moved round on its owns axis.
We passed an hour at the Egyptian Hall to see the opening of the American Panorama of the Overland Route to California. It bids fair to make a hit in London. Last Sunday, "great exhibition" sermons were abundant in London. Exeter Hal, the largest place in London, holding about five thousand persons, is to be used for three months for the performance of divine service, to accommodate thestrangers who crowd the city. We all went, Sunday evening, and heard the Rev. Thomas Binney, who has quite a reputation. The hall was as full as it could be, but we did not think the discourse as good as it might be. It was rather declamatory.
You no doubt remember how much our curiosity was excited by hearing that Mr. Wyld was about to place a model of the globe, of gigantic dimensions, in the great exhibition. Well, he was unable to obtain the space required, and so he has erected a spacious building in Leicester Square. This building is circular, with projecting entrances at the four cardinal points of the compass. From the centre rises a graceful dome. Here is placed the model of the earth, fifty-six feet in diameter. The scale is about ten miles to an inch. The arrangement before used in the construction of globes is reversed in this case, and the continents, islands, and seas are seen on theinnersurface. This seems like turning the world, not upside down, but inside out. The mountains and land are elevated to a scale. The spectators travel round the globe on winding staircases, at the distance of a few feet from the surface. I went the other morning to the model, but was far less interested than I expected. The rest of the party were not present, and are willing to take my report. I heard that Mr. Wyld has spent twelve thousand pounds upon his undertaking.
We selected a fine afternoon to visit the Zoölogical Gardens in the Regent's Park, and, of course, had a treat. I did not think much of the gardens as far as the horticulture was concerned; but the collection of animals was far beyond any thing I had before witnessed. There are more than sixteen hundred specimens. The animals are finely housed, and their habits consulted in the arrangements of their homes. We had the pleasure to see the young elephant, only six months old, which had just been received. It was about the size of a donkey. A hippopotamus had recently been added to the collection, and we were sadly vexed not to see it. It was shut up at six o'clock, just as we reached its house. George had his luck, and obtained a glimpse of the retiring quadruped. We have been greatly amused with the sight of hundreds of boys about town, dressed in blue gowns, or long coats with belts, short knee breeches, yellow stockings, and shoes with tackles, but wear no caps or hats. In all weathers they are bareheaded. I find that they are the boys belonging to Christ's Hospital, a school founded by Edward VI., in 1553, and generally known in London as the Blue Coat School. The scholars generally range from one thousand to twelve hundred. The education, is said to be of the best character, and many of the boys belong to families of high respectability, and it is quite a matter ofdesire to obtain scholarship here. They look very funny in their old-fashioned rig. Each boy wears bands like a clergyman. The school is in Newgate Street, and is a fine modern edifice in the Tudor style. The front is flanked by towers, and has eight noble windows, which are separated by buttresses. Over one of the galleries of the hall is a fine picture, by Holbein, of Edward VI. granting the charter to the Hospital, as it was then called. Some of the best scholars of England were educated here; and we remembered particularly Coleridge and our special favorite, Charles Lamb.
To-morrow we are to have a treat of the highest kind. We are to spend the day at Windsor. I feel pretty well acquainted with its history and associations, but I shall spend the evening with George in brushing up my information. There is nothing more unpleasant than to find yourself in the presence of things and places of which you painfully feel an entire ignorance. If ever we meet again, how much we shall have to chat over on our favorite topics!
Yours always,
james.
London.
Dear Charley:—
It was a fine, clear morning when we started for Windsor by railroad, a distance of twenty-one miles. The country is fine; but our thoughts were on the castle. At Slough we took an omnibus, and rode into the town. It is a pretty, quiet place, of about ten thousand inhabitants. There are some six or seven streets, and they present but few attractions. The castle is every thing. You know this has been the favorite residence of most of the English monarchs, and the scene of many a tournament in the days of chivalry. The castle was the work of William the Conqueror. John lived at Windsor while Magna Charta was extorted from him by his barons at Runnymede. Henry III. did a great deal to the castle, but Edward III. invested it with its great glory. This was his native place. The architect he employed was the famous William of Wykeham, Bishop of Winchester, a man of great genius. He built the noble round tower. This was in 1315. Wykeham built him a palace worthy of the hero and his noble son, the Black Prince. Edward IV. built St. George's Chapel, and Henry VII. and Henry VIII. both made important additionsto the fortress. Young Edward VI. resided here, and did not like its retirement and gloom. Elizabeth made the terrace and other improvements. When Charles II. was restored, he brought a foreign taste to the improvement of the castle, and a great deal of elegancy was attempted, but which poorly harmonized with the Gothic, baronial style of Wykeham's works.
George IV. was a man of exquisite taste, and he employed Sir Jeffry Wyatville to carry out the plans of Edward III. and his architect. This was in 1824, and his immense labors have been successful. These improvements cost two million pounds sterling. I ought to say that Windsor Castle was the favorite home of George III., who died here. This palace stands on a lofty chalk hill, and commands the valley of the Thames. Around it is the finest, terrace in the world, the descent from which is faced with a rampart of freestone extending about seventeen hundred feet. The whole building occupies about twelve acres.
I shall not describe all the towers, for there are some dozen or fifteen. The round tower of Edward III. is the chief one. Here he revived the round table of King Arthur, and established the Order of the Garter. From the battlements of this strong fortress you gaze upon no less than twelve counties. Prince Albert is constable of this tower.This was the old prison, or donjon of the castle. Here James I. of Scotland was a prisoner, and here he wrote his sweet verses and celebrated Nature's beauties and the praises of his lady-love, Jane Beaufort. Here, too, Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, long suffered, and sung the sweetest lays. We had a ticket to see the state apartments. Suffice it to say that we went through the Queen's Audience Chamber, the Vandyke Room, the Queen's State Drawing Boom or Zuccharelle Room, the State Ante-Room, the Grand Staircase and Vestibule, the Waterloo Chamber, the Grand Ball Room, St. George's Hall, the Guard Chamber, the Queen's Presence Chamber. All these are very, very beautiful. I was delighted with the Vandyke Room. Here are twenty-two undoubted productions of this greatest of portrait painters. Charles I. and Henrietta were favorite subjects with the artist. Here are several of them and their children, and they are to be found elsewhere. The equestrian portrait of Charles I. is a truly grand picture. You know the beautiful old copy, of a cabinet size, which we have in the study at home: it will please me more than ever, since I know how faithful it is. That queen of Charles's who made him so much trouble with her Popery and temper was a wonderfully beautiful woman. I should not soon be weary looking at her portrait. She was daughter ofHenry IV. of France. Her fortune was hard, to lose a father by an assassin, and a husband by the executioner. The Gobelin tapestry, illustrating the life of Esther, in the Audience Room, is very rich. In the State Ante-Room are the most wonderful carvings of fowl, fish, fruit, and flowers, by Grinling Gibbons. They are thought to be unsurpassed in this department of art. On the Great Staircase is a noble colossal marble statue, of that excellent sovereign, but bad man, George IV. It is by Chantrey. The Waterloo Chamber is adorned with thirty-eight portraits of men connected with Waterloo, and twenty-nine of them are by Sir Thomas Lawrence. St. George's Hall is two hundred feet long, thirty-four wide, thirty-two high, and contains some fine portraits of sovereigns by Vandyke, Lely, Kneller, Gainsborough, and Lawrence. On twenty-four shields are the arms of each sovereign of the Order of the Garter, from Edward III. to William IV. The Guard Chamber is a noble room, eighty feet in length. Immediately on entering, we were struck with the colossal bust of Nelson by Chantrey, A piece of the mast of the Victory, shot through by a cannon ball, forms its fitting pedestal. Here, too, we saw the busts of the great Duke of Marlborough by Rysbach, and the Duke of Wellington by Chantrey, and their two banners, by the annual presentation of which to the reigning sovereign, on theanniversaries of Blenheim and Waterloo, they hold the estates of Blenheim and Strathfieldsaye. There are figures in armor representing the Duke of Brunswick, 1530; Lord Howard, 1588; Earl of Essex, 1596; Charles I., when Prince of Wales, 1620; and Prince Rupert, 1635. These suits of armor are the genuine ones which were worn by these characters in their lifetime. One thing greatly delighted me—it was the gorgeous shield, executed by Benvenuto Cellini, and presented by Francis I. to Henry VIII. at the Field of the Cloth of Gold. The workmanship is entirely beyond anything I had imagined possible for delicacy of finish. I hardly wonder that kings used to quarrel for the residence of this artist.
I know, Charley, you are impatient to hear about St. George's Chapel, of which you have so often expressed your admiration, when we have looked at the beautiful engravings of its interior, at home. It is very fine, and should be seen to be comprehended. It is of what is called the perpendicular Gothic style. The interior is divided by a screen and organ gallery, into the body of the church, and the choir. These have side aisles, and in these are five separate little chapels. Two of these make up the place of transepts, and the other three, and the chapter house, form abutments at each angle of the chapel. Now, I think, you can't fail to get an idea of the building.
The choir is filled with the stalls and banners of the knights of the garter. Each knight has his banner, helmet, crest, and sword.
The great pointed window wasdesignedby our countryman, Benjamin West. The altar-piece was painted by West. Here is the tomb of Edward IV., 1483. He lies under a slab of black marble. In 1789, some workmen discovered his lead coffin, and it was opened, and the skeleton was in good preservation, and measured seven feet in length. Horace Walpole obtained a lock of his hair at this time. Here are the graves of Henry VI., and of Henry VIII. and his queen, Jane Seymour. Also of Charles I.
Lord Byron says of Henry VIII.'s tomb,
"Famed for contemptuous breach of sacred ties,By headless Charles, see heartless Henry lies"
"Famed for contemptuous breach of sacred ties,By headless Charles, see heartless Henry lies"
On the 1st of April, 1813, the coffin of Charles I. was found in Henry VIII.'s tomb; and I think you will be pleased with an account of what, transpired. I shall, therefore, copy a paper which is authentic:
"On completing the mausoleum which his present majesty has built in the Tomb House, as it is called, it was necessary to form a passage to it from under the choir of St George's Chapel. In constructing this passage, an aperture was made accidentally, in one of the walls of the vault of King HenryVIII., through which the workmen were enabled to see, not only the two coffins which were supposed to contain the bodies of King Henry VIII. and Queen Jane Seymour, but a third also, covered with a black velvet pall, which, from Mr. Herbert's narrative, might fairly be presumed to hold the remains of King Charles I.
"On representing the circumstance to the Prince Regent, his Royal Highness perceived at once that a doubtful point in history might be cleared up by opening this vault; and, accordingly, his Royal Highness ordered an examination to be made on the first convenient opportunity. This was done on the 1st of April last, 1813,—the day after the funeral of the Duchess of Brunswick,—in the presence of his Royal Highness himself; who guarantied, thereby, the most respectful care and attention to the remains of the dead during the inquiry. His Royal Highness was accompanied by his Royal Highness the Duke of Cumberland, Count Munster, the Dean of Windsor, Benjamin Charles Stevenson, Esq., and Sir Henry Halford.
"The vault is covered by an arch half a breadth in thickness; is seven feet two inches in width, nine feet six inches in length, and four feet ten inches in height, andis situated in the centre of the choir, opposite the eleventh knight's stall, on the sovereign's side.
"On removing the pall, a plain leaden coffin, withno appearance of ever having been enclosed in wood, and bearing an inscription, 'King Charles, 1648,' in large, legible characters, on a scroll of lead encircling it, immediately presented itself to the view. A square opening was then made in the upper part of the lid, of such dimensions as to admit a clear insight into its contents. These were an internal wooden coffin, very much decayed, and the body carefully wrapped up in cerecloth, into the folds of which a quantity of unctuous or greasy matter, mixed with resin, as it seemed, had been melted, so as to exclude, as effectually as possible, the external air. The coffin was completely full, and, from-the tenacity of the cerecloth, great difficulty was experienced in detaching it successfully from the parts which it developed. Wherever the unctuous matter had insinuated itself, the separation of the cerecloth was easy; and when it came off, a correct impression of the features to which it had been applied was observed in the unctuous substance. At length the whole face was disengaged from its covering. The complexion of the skin of it was dark and discolored. The forehead and temples had lost little or nothing of their muscular substance. The cartilage of the nose was gone, but the left eye, in the first moment of exposure, was open and full, though it vanished almost immediately; and the pointed beard, so characteristic of the reign of King Charles, wasperfect The shape of the face was a long oval. Many of the teeth remained, and the left ear, in consequence of the interposition of some unctuous matter between it and the cerecloth, was found entire. It was difficult at this moment to withhold a declaration, that, notwithstanding its disfigurement, the countenance did bear a strong resemblance to the coins, the busts, and especially to the picture of King Charles I. by Vandyke, by which it had been made familiar to us. It is true that the minds of the spectators of this interesting sight were well prepared to receive this impression; but it is also certain that such a facility of belief had been occasioned by the simplicity and truth of Mr. Herbert's narrative, every part of which had been confirmed by the investigation, so far as it had advanced; and it will not be denied that the shape of the face, the forehead, an eye, and the beard, are the most important features by which resemblance is determined. When the head had been entirely disengaged from the attachments which confined it; it was found to be loose, and without any difficulty was taken up and held to view. It was quitewet, and gave a greenish-red tinge to paper and linen which touched it. The back part of the scalp was entirely perfect, and had a remarkably fresh appearance—the pores of the skin being more distinct, as they usually are when soaked in moisture, and the tendons and ligamentsof the neck were of considerable substance and firmness. The hair was thick at the back part of the head, and, in appearance, nearly black. A portion of it, which has since been cleaned and dried, is of a beautiful dark-brown color. That of the beard was of a redder brown. On the back part of the head it was about an inch in length, and had probably been cut so short for the convenience of the executioner, or, perhaps, in order to furnish memorials of the unhappy king. On holding up the head to examine the place of separation from the body, the muscles of the neck had evidently retracted themselves considerably, and the fourth cervical vertebra was found to be cut through its substance transversely, leaving the surfaces of the divided portions perfectly smooth and even; an appearance which could only have been produced by a heavy blow, inflicted with a very sharp instrument, and which furnished the last proof wanting to identify Charles I. After this examination, which served every purpose in view, and without examining the body below the neck; it was immediately restored to its situation, the coffin was soldered up again, and the vault closed."
This state of things precisely tallied with the account which Herbert, the faithful servant of Charles, had given as to the place of his sepulture.
In this chapel, too, is the cenotaph of the latePrincess Charlotte, who was wife to Leopold, now King of Belgium. I do not much admire it.
The exquisite beauty of the windows, and the gorgeous splendor of the roof, will always make this place live in my memory. The terraces are very beautiful walks; and from Queen Elizabeth's terrace you have a noble view of Eton College. Of course, we were pleased to see "the distant spires and antique towers" which are so celebrated in the lines of Gray. The college looms up finely, and greatly adds to the prospect. Eton was founded in 1440, by Henry VI. The number of scholars is about eight hundred and fifty. This college has produced some of the greatest men in England, and the young nobility are generally educated here. The college has two quadrangles, and the chapel is a fine Gothic building. All this region is beautified by the Thames winding through the valley. Here is the gem of villages, Datchett, where Sir Henry Wotton and Izaak Walton used to enjoy the rod and line. No one who has any taste can come to Windsor and not think of the immortal bard who has made so much capital out of this place. At all events, we wanted to see Herne's Oak.
We took a carriage and passed the day in riding through the great park, and took our way through the well-known avenue, called the Long Walk. This is three miles in length, and has a double row ofmagnificent elms. It is directly in front of the south side of the castle, and terminates in a colossal equestrian statue of George III., standing on an immense pedestal of blocks of granite. Nothing can exceed in beauty the beeches of this park, which contains three thousand acres. Immense herds of deer are seen under the trees. Nowhere have I seen such fine old trees. Here is a beech-tree thirty-six feet round, seven feet from the ground! One oak of similar size is called William the Conqueror's Oak. We went to Virginia Water, the largest sheet of water—that is, artificial—in Great Britain. We saw the little cottage where George IV. passed so much of his time. It is a pretty place, but it only shows that the mind is more likely to be pleased with the simple than the grand.
The gardener at the cottage—which I think is called Cumberland Lodge—showed us through the conservatory. We did not much admire the Fishing Temple, or the floating miniature navy. The scenery is charming, and worthy of Poussin. The walk by the water, to the tavern, cannot be surpassed. On our return we passed Frogmore, the residence of the Duchess of Kent; it seems a pretty, unpretending place.
Nothing would repay the tourist better than to pass three or four days, in this vicinity. Village after village, and villa after villa, claims the admirationof the traveller; and perhaps England has no more beautiful rural scenery than may here be found. We had seven or eight hours of perfect delight upon our ride; and when we reached the White Hart, at Windsor, we were well prepared for doing justice to an excellent dinner. Our pleasure at Windsor was much increased by the company of a gentleman of high literary reputation, and who is distinguished as the author of several successful works.
Affectionately yours,
weld
London
Dear Charley:—
We are just returned from a most pleasant visit to Sir John Soane's Museum. This gentleman was an architect, and a most determined antiquary; and when he died he left his wonderful collection to the nation, having obtained an act of Parliament for preserving it and endowing its maintenance. We obtained a government order, and went to the house which was Sir John's private residence, in Lincoln's Inn Fields. Never did I behold such a sight. The house is spacious, but every nook and corner—and it is full of unimaginable ones—is filled up with precious matters. Here are Roman and Grecianrelics; fragments of vases from Herculaneum; and the far-famed Egyptian sarcophagus brought over by Belzoni. The latter is made of one piece of alabaster, nearly ten feet long. It is inscribed all over with hieroglyphics, and cost Sir John a large sum. I shall see nothing in all Europe that will take my fancy as much as this museum, I am sure. There are twenty-five distinct apartments; and if you can find a square foot in the house not occupied, you would do more than I was able to. The catalogue of this museum I shall value highly, and that will give you a better idea than I can of its contents. I had no common pleasure in finding here the original paintings of the Rake's Progress, by Hogarth, the engravings of which we have so admired. These pictures were painted in 1734, and were bought by Sir J. Soane, in 1802, for five hundred and seventy guineas. And here, too, are Hogarth's great paintings of the Election—a series of four pictures. These unrivalled works of comic art were bought of Garrick's widow by Soane, in 1823, for sixteen hundred and fifty guineas! The collection of paintings is by no means despicable, and we saw a few pictures not soon to be forgotten. The Views of Venice, by Canaletti, are very fine; and there are some gems by Reynolds, Danby, Turner, Hamilton, Lawrence, and Bird. I must tell you how they have economized room in the apartment devoted to pictures. Theceiling is very richly adorned with ornaments, forming arched canopies. On the north and west sides of this room are cabinets, and on the south aremovable planes, with space between for pictures. So, in a room of thirteen feet eight inches by twelve feet four inches, there are as many pictures as could be placed on the walls of a gallery of the same height, forty-five feet long and twenty broad. In the crypt is an ancient tomb, and models, in cork, of tombs, at Capua.
There are some precioussouvenirsof Napoleon to be seen,—as portraits, miniatures, pistols, &c.,—a fine collection of painted glass, and a countless lot of antiques, intaglios, autographs, and watches. If ever you find yourself in London, I charge you, get to this same place for a long morning. In the afternoon we took steamer and Went to Greenwich, five miles from town, to see the Hospital for Seamen. Charles II. built this place for a royal palace,—and a noble one it is,—but William and Mary gave it up to the use of old and worn-out seamen; and as England owes every thing to Jack Tar, it seems fit that, when old and crazy, his last days should be made comfortable. A very large income arises from the exhibition of the fine picture gallery here to be seen. Here is quite enough to please any one who is curious, and to gratify boys amazingly; and this you will credit when I tell you somethings that we saw. The coat and waistcoat worn by Nelson when he was killed, on the Victory, at Trafalgar; models of celebrated ships; original painting of Sir Walter Raleigh; Sir Cloudesley Shovel, who was lost, with all his crew, on the Scilly Islands, in Queen Anne's reign; Admiral Kempenfeldt, lost in the Royal George, 1782; Lord Nelson; Lord Collingwood; and almost all the great naval commanders of Great Britain. Then, too, there are large paintings of the great sea fights. One of Trafalgar, by Turner, is very fine, and so is a large one of Nelson's death.
There is a room besides all I have alluded to, called the Nelson Room, and which illustrates all his history; and there are, all about the rooms, some exquisitely fine colossal busts, executed by Flaxman, Bailey, and Westmacott. The chapel is thought to be one of the most beautiful in England. The entire of this great national glory is kept in the cleanest manner; and the only thing to complain of is a want of politeness in the guides. This is in contrast to other places; for we have found the guides very kind and civil at all other places. We have recently visited the Queen's stables, by order from Mr. Lawrence. Every thing was very clean and spacious. Some of the horses were exceedingly beautiful. The harness-room made a display. The cream-colored horses belonging to the state carriageare noble animals. I believe they are brought from Hanover, or came originally thence. The state carriage is an immense lumbering affair, made of carvings and gold. It must be of great weight. The sides are richly painted. It is never used but at the opening of Parliament and similar occasions. The queen's carriages which are ordinarily used are numerous and very elegant, but in good taste. One of our number—you may guess who it was—sadly wanted a hair from the tail of the queen's favorite riding horse. The riding school is spacious, but not much better than a private one that we know in New York.
We took dinner one day at Soyer's Symposium, at Gore House. Soyer is the great master of ceremonies in London for all matters of thecuisine.Gore House was once the home of Wilberforce and Lord Rodney, but is better known as the residence of the late Countess of Blessington. It is now a hotel. The grounds are extensive, and the trees are some of the finest around London, and I have never seen a lovelier spot of the same size. It is alive with blackbirds, thrushes, linnets, and goldfinches. As you enter, you find a vestibule, which is called the cupola of Jupiter Tonans. Through this you pass to "the hall of architectural wonders," then to "the Blessington Temple of the Muses." This apartment leads to "the Transatlantic Ante-Chamber,"which is adorned with all sorts of American emblems. Then there are, in succession, "the Alcove of White Roses," "the Birth of Gems," and other rooms of great gorgeousness. One room is the "Palace of the North," which is apparently made entirely of ice, and out of the wall of which is issuing a polar bear. In the pleasure grounds is a "baronial hall," one hundred feet long, fifty broad, and thirty high; and besides this an enormous tent, called "the Encampment for all Nations." Here, at a table four hundred feet long, fifteen hundred persons can be dined at a cheap rate. A table-cloth for this affair cost Soyer two hundred pounds sterling. We had a very pleasant dinner with the Rev. Dr. Harris, President of New College, whose works are so well known in America. The room we occupied was "the Alcove of White Roses." The Symposium stands near to the Crystal Palace, and accommodates the strangers admirably. That dinner was two days ago, however; and I am reminded that another is necessary today, and must leave off to prepare for it.
I am yours truly,
james.
London.
Dear Charley:—
Yesterday we visited the two great ecclesiastical edifices of the metropolis,—St. Paul's Cathedral and Westminster Abbey,—and I will endeavor to convey to your mind some idea of the impression which they left upon my own. These structures are by name familiar to you, and you have seen engravings of the mighty dome of St. Paul's and the double towers of the Abbey. I had often gazed on these pictured representations, but I find that they did not convey to my mind any adequate notions of the originals. Like the Pyramids, or our own Niagara, they must be seen to be understood. In so vast a place as London, it is absolutely necessary for sight-seers to adopt something like system in their arrangements; so we agreed to devote one day to the examination of the metropolitan Cathedral Church, and of the ancient edifice in which the monarchs of England are crowned. We quitted our hotel at nine o'clock, and, pushing our way through the hurrying crowds of the Strand, speedily arrived at Temple Bar. We then turned down a dingy, narrow passage, on our right hand; this led us to the Temple, which is like a little town of itself, and is almostexclusively inhabited by lawyers. It was amusing enough to notice the gentlemen in powdered horse-hair wigs and flowing black robes, like a clergyman's, who every now and then emerged from some open door, and flitted across the courts, each having a bundle of papers tied with red tape, or a book under his arm. Whilst occupied in observing these Templars of modern times, the tones of an organ fell on my ear, for we were close to the Temple Church, one of the most beautiful sanctuaries in the world. The early morning service was not concluded so we entered without ceremony. Externally, the building has little in the way of architectural decorations to recommend it. It is low, destitute of tower or steeple, and surrounded by gloomy-looking lawyers' offices. But no sooner had we crossed the threshold than a scene of surpassing beauty burst upon us. I should here tell you that this edifice, which is intended for the exclusive use of members of the Temple, is very ancient. The church formerly belonged to the Knights Templars. It was built in 1185, and the choir was added in 1240. For years and years the building was neglected by the legal gentlemen; but in 1839 it was proposed to restore the former glories of the place, and the outlay of seventy thousand pounds has caused it to stand out in all its pristine beauty. The form of the church is octagonal. The ceiling, sides, and altar are alldecorated in the mediæval style. The pipes of the organ dazzle you with their purple and golden splendors. The floor is of encaustic tiles. On the walls are displayed the names and coats of arms of those members of the Temple who have been raised to the dignity of judges. On all these objects the sunshine, streaming through superbly-painted windows, produced quite a kaleidoscope effect. Thecoup d'œilwas almost too dazzling, and strikingly contrasted in my mind with the primitive simplicity of our New England churches. In this church I found that some great men had been buried. The learned Sir John, Selden, the author of "Table Talk;" Howell, whose old letters we have so much enjoyed together; Gibbon the historian, and Oliver Goldsmith, lie just outside the church. The preacher of this church is called the master of the Temple, and the great Hooker once held this post. Having gratified our curiosity by an inspection of this gem of church architecture, we quitted the building, and, after a pleasant stroll through the Temple Gardens,—a sweet spot, and spoken of by Shakspeare as the place where the distinction of the Red and White Roses was first seen,—embarked on one of the river steamboats, which rapidly conveyed us to Blackfriars Bridge.
The finest view of St. Paul's Cathedral is, unquestionably, from the Thames. When seen fromthe streets, only portions of its colossal magnitude can be observed. On all sides it is hemmed in by houses, which, pygmies though they be, prevent an uninterrupted view of the architectural giant. But from the middle of the Thames, the cathedral is seen in all its glory; towering above the surrounding marts of trade, it stands out the grand point of attraction.
St. Paul's Cathedral.St. Paul's Cathedral.
Here may be observed, to advantage, the surpassing beauty of the great dome, which dwarfs the towers and steeples of the surrounding churches almost into nothingness. The general aspect of the cathedral is said to resemble St. Peter's, at Rome,but the symmetry of the dome of the latter is acknowledged to be less beautiful than that of its London rival.
We landed at Blackfriars Bridge Stairs; and, after ascending Ludgate Hill, arrived at the great northern door of the cathedral. In reply to the rap of our knuckles at the huge portals, it slowly swung back on its hinges, and a grim, surly-looking face appeared. The figure which belonged to the face was clad in a rusty and seedy black robe, from beneath which a hand was thrust forth, and the words, "two-pence each," sounded harshly on our ears. Two-pence each was accordingly paid, and then the surly janitor, or verger, as he is called, admitted us within the building. In a moment afterwards, we were beneath the dome of St. Paul's. If this part of the edifice has appeared imposing when viewed from without, how much grander did it seem now that we stood on the marble pavement below, and gazed upward into the vast concave which the genius of Sir Christopher Wren had designed. The scene to my mind was most impressive, and the impressiveness was heightened by a continuous dull roar, which never ceased for a moment. This ceaseless noise was produced by the numerous carriages passing and repassing without. The concavity of the dome, I suppose, condensed the sound into a subdued thunder, like that which one hears at a short distance fromthe Falls of Niagara. Against the huge pillars, and in various niches, were the statues of eminent men; some of them erected by the nation, as a commemoration of naval or military services, and others as tributes to great personal worth, or to public benefactors. Among the statues of the men of peace, that of Dr. Samuel Johnson, the great lexicographer, particularly interested me. The celebrated moralist is represented seated. One hand holdsa scroll, the other rests upon a pedestal. The likeness is said to be well preserved. The sculptor was Bacon. There was the capacious forehead, the thick bushy eyebrows, the large mouth, the double chin, the clumsy person, and the thick, ungainly legs, which had been rendered familiar to me through the portraits which I had seen in the Johnsonia. As I gazed on that marble tribute to genius and worth, I could not but remember, Charley, how Johnson had frequently walked the streets of London all night, because he had not the wherewithal to pay for a lodging. Near to Johnson's monument was that of Howard the philanthropist. We noticed a very fine one to Sir Joshua Reynolds; also statues to Bishop Heber, Abercrombie, Cornwallis, Sir John Moore, Sir Astley Cooper, Sir Thomas Lawrence, and Benjamin West.
Dr. Samuel JohnsonDr. Samuel Johnson.
But the greatest attraction of St. Paul's is the sarcophagus, in which repose the remains of England's greatest naval hero, Lord Nelson. Situated immediately beneath the centre of the great dome is a diamond-shaped tablet, which marks the spot beneath which rests, after his career of glory, the hero of the Nile and Trafalgar. His body rests in a sarcophagus in the vaults below. Exactly beneath the tablet lies the huge coffin, with the name "NELSON" engraven on its side. No epitaph, no labored panegyric, no fulsome praise; and Englishmen, I think,were right in supposing that the simple name of their hero was enough for fame. This sarcophagus was made by Cardinal Wolsey; and here Nelson was placed, in a coffin made out of the mainmast of the French ship, L'Orient.
The grim verger recommended us to ascend to the dome, and, after paying fresh fees, we mounted an enormously long and steep-winding staircase, which led us to the base of the dome. Here was a circular gallery, surrounded with a railing. Scarcely had we entered this gallery, when the attendant purposely slammed the entrance door, and immediately a loud peal, as of thunder, reverberated through the vast building; then he requested us to listen whilst he whispered against the smooth wall directly opposite to us. The effect was startling; every word was as distinct as though the speaker's lips had been close to my ear. This is known as the Whispering Gallery, and is one of the great lions of the place.
We now prepared to ascend still higher, and, after a tedious journey, arrived at the gilded gallery, which surmounts the dome. From hence we enjoyed a magnificent view of London, for, fortunately, the atmosphere was comparatively clear, and the everlasting canopy of smoke which overhangs London was not so dense as usual. Spread out before us lay the great wilderness of brick and mortar, through which the shining Thames, like a hugesnake, pursued its sinuous course, spanned at intervals by bridges, and bearing, on its broad bosom the gathered treasures of many a far-distant nation. The streets, diminished to mere lanes, looked alive with Lilliputians; miniature horses and carriages appeared like so many German automaton toys which had been wound up and set a-going. Far away to the westward patches of green, studded with trees, denoted the parks, in one of which glittered the glass roof and sides of the Crystal Palace; and still more remote were glimpses of the free, fresh, open country, along which, at intervals, would rush railway trains, bearing hundreds of passengers to various parts of England. Above my head glittered, in the brilliant sunshine, the ball and cross which, at a height of four hundred and four feet, stands proudly over London, and may be seen from various parts of the metropolis. Another fee secured our passage to the interior of this globe of gilded copper, and which is about six feet in diameter, and will hold several persons. To reach it, I had to ascend a ladder and creep through an aperture at the bottom of the sphere. This was not worth the labor, but then we could say we had attained the highest point of the cathedral. I hear that ladies sometimes venture into the ball; if so, their timidity is insufficient to baffle their curiosity. This accomplished, we retraced our steps, and visited the portion of St.Paul's in which divine service is performed. About a dozen boys, dressed in white surplices, were chanting sweetly; a dull-looking clergyman read the service indifferently; and a score of poor people, with one or two well-dressed persons, formed the congregation. We then departed for Westminster Abbey, which must form the subject of another letter.
Yours affectionately,
weld.
London.
Dear Charley:—
What shall I tell you about Westminster Abbey? I hope I may be able to say enough to make you long to see it, and determine you to read all you can about it. By the way, I have satisfied myself that I can learn the best things about such places by carefully reading good histories and examining the best engravings. This abbey claims to have been built, in 616, by a Saxon king. It was enlarged by Edgar and Edward the Confessor, and was rebuilt as it now appears by Henry III. and Edward I. In this church all the sovereigns of England have been crowned, from Edward the Confessor down to Victoria; and not a few of them have been buried here. The architecture, excepting Henry VII.'s Chapel; isof the early English school. Henry's chapel is of the perpendicular Gothic. The western towers were built by Sir Christopher Wren.
We entered at the door leading to the Poet's Corner. We gazed with interest on the monuments of Chatham, Pitt, Fox, and Canning, Prince Rupert, Monk, Chaucer, Spenser, Beaumont, Fletcher, Ben Jonson, Cowley, Dryden, Dr. Watts, Addison, Gay,Sheridan, and Campbell. Here, too, are tablets to Barrow, South, Garrick, Handel, Clarendon, Bishop Atterbury, Sir Isaac Newton, and old Parr, who died at the age of one hundred and fifty-two.