ARMENTIÈRES. BEFORE RETREATING, THE GERMANS MINED THE TOWNARMENTIÈRES. BEFORE RETREATING, THE GERMANS MINED THE TOWN
ARMENTIÈRES. NÔTRE DAME CHURCH WAS NOT GREATLY DAMAGED BY THE BOMBARDMENTS (see below)ARMENTIÈRES. NÔTRE DAME CHURCH WAS NOT GREATLY DAMAGED BY THE BOMBARDMENTS (see below)
Visit the ruins ofSt. Waast Church,then return to Rue de Dunkerque. There take the first street on the right and cross the Lys.From the Bridge there is a general view of the church.
ARMENTIÈRES. NÔTRE-DAME CHURCH, WHICH THE GERMANS BLEW UP BEFORE BEING DRIVEN OUT OF THE TOWN (see above)ARMENTIÈRES. NÔTRE-DAME CHURCH, WHICH THE GERMANS BLEW UP BEFORE BEING DRIVEN OUT OF THE TOWN (see above)
ARMENTIÈRES. RUE NATIONALE, AS THE SHELLS LEFT ITARMENTIÈRES. RUE NATIONALE, AS THE SHELLS LEFT IT
ARMENTIÈRES. RUE DE LILLE IN RUINSARMENTIÈRES. RUE DE LILLE IN RUINS
BIZET. POST ON THE FRONTIER On the left of motor-car: TEMPORARY CUSTOM HOUSEBIZET. POST ON THE FRONTIEROn the left of motor-car: TEMPORARY CUSTOM HOUSE
Cross the Cloth Market, then follow the tram-lines along Rue de Flandre and Rue Bizet. Follow the Lys Canal, then cross the new bridge. Go through Bizet Village(badly damaged houses).Leaving the ruins of the church on the right, turn first to the right, then to the left(the photograph shows an army hut on the left, now temporarily used as the office of the Receiver of French Customs).Cross the frontier a few yards further on, then at the fork just outside the village, take the road on the right opposite the Villa des Roses (photo below). Leaving on the right the road to the gasworks(of which nothing is left but a wrecked gasometer)the first houses ofPloegsteertare reached.This village lay west of the first lines in May, 1918, and was captured by the Germans on April 12 (see p. 39).
BIZET. END OF VILLAGE, GOING TOWARDS PLOEGSTEERT Take the right-hand road.BIZET. END OF VILLAGE, GOING TOWARDS PLOEGSTEERTTake the right-hand road.
BRITISH CEMETERY AT THE ENTRANCE TO PLOEGSTEERTBRITISH CEMETERY AT THE ENTRANCE TO PLOEGSTEERT
MESSINES ROAD (seen from the Château de la Hutte) In the background: MESSINES RIDGEMESSINES ROAD (seen from the Château de la Hutte)In the background: MESSINES RIDGE
BRITISH CEMETERY ON THE PLOEGSTEERT ROAD AT MESSINESBRITISH CEMETERY ON THE PLOEGSTEERT ROAD AT MESSINES
British cemetery No. 53 (photo, p. 56) lies at the entrance to the village.Go straight through the village(in ruins).On leaving it, Cemetery No. 54 is seen on the right, then beyond a large concrete shelter, Cemetery No. 55. Cemetery No. 56 is on the left, beyond the level-crossing.
CROSS-ROADS AT NÔTRE-DAME-DE-GRÂCE The Messines Road (bordered with tree stumps) was not practicable for motors in June, 1919. Take the Neuve-Eglise Road on the left (see Itinerary, p. 47).CROSS-ROADS AT NÔTRE-DAME-DE-GRÂCEThe Messines Road (bordered with tree stumps) was not practicable for motors in June, 1919. Take the Neuve-Eglise Road on the left (see Itinerary, p. 47).
Cross Ploegsteert Wood, leaving the road to Petit-Pont Farm on the left. Here the road rises.To the left, on the slopes of Hill 63, are seen the ruins of La Hutte Château. On the crest opposite stand the ruins of Messines (photo above). In June, 1919, it was not possible to go direct to Messines, the road being cut at the Petite Douve stream.
AMONG THE RUINS OF MESSINES The motor takes the left-hand road to Wytschaete (see p. 47).AMONG THE RUINS OF MESSINESThe motor takes the left-hand road to Wytschaete (see p. 47).
Follow the road as far as the fork to the place called Nôtre-Dame-de-Grâce(the ruins of the chapel are barely distinguishable),then take the Neuve-Eglise road on the left.Stop the car at Rossignol terre-plein and walk a few yards into the little wood on the right; numerous concrete shelters, from the top of which there is a very fine view over the Hills Kemmel, Rouge, Noir and Cats. The last-named can be recognised by its abbey, which stands out against the sky.
Return to the car. The road now descends. Passing by a few ruined houses—all that remain of the hamlet of Haubourdin—a fork is reached, where take the Neuve-Eglise-Messines road on the right.British cemetery on the right.Cross the Douve river, then the railway (l. c.). Turn to the right at the first ruins of Wulverghem, then go through the village, passing in front of the cemetery. Next cross the Steenbeck, by the St. Quentin Bridge. The road now rises sharply to the crest on which Messines used to stand.Numerous small forts are seen to the right and left. These machine-gun nests are all that now mark the site of the village.
At the entrance to the village leave the car at the junction of the Ypres-Armentières and Neuve-Eglise-Warneton roads, and visit these pathetic ruins on foot.
Messinesmaybe regarded as one of the hinges of the "Ypres Salient." An important strategic point, it was hotly disputed throughout the war.
ENTRANCE TO WYTSCHAETE The motor takes the right-hand road to Oosttaverne (see p. 47).ENTRANCE TO WYTSCHAETEThe motor takes the right-hand road to Oosttaverne (see p. 47).
On November 3, 1914, during the First Battle of Ypres, it fell into the hands of the enemy. At four o'clock on the following day, the ground between this village and Hollebeke (some four miles to the north) was the scene of several furious attacks (see p. 8).
Messines was destroyed by the British bombardment during the offensive of June, 1917. The New Zealanders captured it on June 7, in spite of a stubborn defence. They also took the neighbouring village of Wytschaete (see p. 20). Messines again fell into German hands in April, 1918 (see p. 39), and was finally retaken on September 30 during the last battle (see p. 46).
Return to the car and take the Ypres road on the left(photo, p. 58). Along this road are numerous little bridges thrown across the shell-holes.
Wytschaete, which is soon reached, was captured, like Messines, in the first battle of 1914, and retaken by the New Zealanders on June 7, 1917. After being entirely destroyed by bombardment (see p. 20), it was lost again on April 15, 1918, then retaken on September 30, 1918.
At the fork, just before entering the village—protected by a series of powerful blockhouses—take the road on the right leading to Oosttaverne(now totally destroyed).Follow the main road(Ypres-Warneton)on the right as far as the place called Gapaard(photo below),then turn to the left along the road to Houthem.A series of little bridges over shell-craters full of water—once the River Wanbecke—are crossed.
GAPAARD. END OF VILLAGE, GOING TOWARDS HOUTHEMGAPAARD. END OF VILLAGE, GOING TOWARDS HOUTHEM
HOLLEBEKE CHÂTEAU, BEFORE THE WAR. IT HAS BEEN RAZED TO THE GROUND (photo, Antony, Ypres)HOLLEBEKE CHÂTEAU, BEFORE THE WAR. IT HAS BEEN RAZED TO THE GROUND (photo, Antony, Ypres)
Go through Houthem, which was razed to the ground. Beyond an armoured shelter built against the brick wall of a house,the road turns to the left. Cross the canal by the temporary bridge.
The old bed of the canal is marked by some crumbling blocks of concrete.A few yards further on, take the level-crossing over the Ypres-Lille Railway.It was on this line that on October 22 and 23, 1914, the Germans brought up an armoured train which bombarded Ypres with incendiary shells, causing the first serious damage to the town.
A few hundred yards beyond the railway turn to the right at the village of Kortewilde, where a few wooden houses are being erected among the ruins.After crossing a number of little bridges over the Gaverbeck canal, the road, rising slightly, turns to the right.At this turning the Château (photo above) and village ofHollebekeought to be visible on the left, but this part of the battlefield is in so chaotic a condition that neither road, canal, nor village can be distinguished.
WHERE GHELUVELT USED TO STAND, ON THE ROAD TO MENINWHERE GHELUVELT USED TO STAND, ON THE ROAD TO MENIN
Duringthe first battle (November, 1914) the Germans launched attacks in great force between Hollebeke and Messines, and captured both these places. Hollebeke was retaken on July 13, 1917, during the first phase of the great British offensive for the clearing of the town. After being lost again in April, 1918, Hollebeke was finally recaptured by the Allies in October.
The road first rises, then descends.On the hillside are the ruins of Zandvoorde.At the entrance to the village take the Zillebeke-Wervicq road on the left, then first to the right, then to the left, between two wooden houses. The road descends, then, undulating slightly, joins the main road from Ypres to Menin, opposite Gheluvelt,the site of which is marked by a sign-post.
This was one of the important strategic points in the first German offensive of 1914 (see p. 7), when the village was captured by the enemy. During the battle for the clearing of Ypres, fierce fighting took place to the west ofGheluvelt, especially at Tower Hamlet. From November, 1917, to April, 1918, the firing-line ran through the village. Gheluvelt was retaken by the British in October, 1918.
Take the main road from Ypres to Menin on the right. Only at Gheluvelt will a passable road to Becelaere be found.
In Gheluvelt, where there are still a few broken walls standing, turn to the left at the fork in the road, leaving the ruined church on the right. At the next fork take the right-hand road to the ruined hamlet of Terhand.
Fifty yards before the crossing with the Dadizelle Road, there is a German cemetery on the right, containing a remarkable concrete monument, thirty feet in height, which dominates the whole plain. This monument (photo, p. 62) was in reality a German observation post. Inside there were two floors. An outside staircase led to a platform. Traces of the balustrade are visible in the photo.
ROAD FROM GHELUVELT TO BECELAERE (Impracticable for motors in June, 1919.)ROAD FROM GHELUVELT TO BECELAERE(Impracticable for motors in June, 1919.)
GERMAN CEMETERY AT TERHAND. DUMMY FUNERAL MONUMENT WHICH WAS REALLY A GERMAN OBSERVATION-POSTGERMAN CEMETERY AT TERHAND. DUMMY FUNERAL MONUMENT WHICH WAS REALLY A GERMAN OBSERVATION-POST
Leave the Dadizelle road on the right.The road hereabouts is camouflaged. Numerous small forts may be seen on both sides of the plateau, especially on the right. The largest of them was used as a telephone exchange.
After passing the place called Molenhoek the tourist comes to the Passchendaele-Wervicq road, now impassable.
Leave the car at the fork, and go on foot through the ruins of Becelaere, as far as the church on the right.
RUINED VILLAGE OF BECELAERERUINED VILLAGE OF BECELAERE
Return to the fork and take the right-hand uphill road.Onthe plateau there are many shelters.
To the west of the road from Becelaere to Zonnebeke lay Polygone Wood, which was entirely destroyed. The British made two unsuccessful attempts (July 31 and August 16, 1917) to take this strongly fortified wood, succeeding eventually on September 20 (see p. 28). Evacuated by the British in April, 1918, the wood was finally recaptured by the Allies in October, 1918.
Beyond the place called Noordenhoek there is a bend in the road. On the left, Zonnebeke Pond, the ruined château, and the remains of a gasometer come into sight (photo below).
At the place called Broodseinde take the Ypres-Roulers road on the left, to visit the ruins of Zonnebeke.
Zonnebekewas taken in 1914 by the Germans, who made an outpost of it in front of their lines. The village was recaptured on September 26, then lost in April, 1918, and finally retaken in the following October.
Return to the fork(which was commanded by numerous small forts),and turn to the left:military cemetery at the side of the road. In the fields on the right, 200 yards beyond the level crossing, there is a monument to the memory of 148 officers and men of the Canadian 85th Battalion (photo, p. 64).
Passing through shell-torn country,Passchendaele—now razed to the ground—is reached. All that remains of the church is the mound seen in the background of the photograph (p. 64).
RUINS OF ZONNEBEKE VILLAGERUINS OF ZONNEBEKE VILLAGE
Passchendaele was captured by the Germans in November, 1914, and later by the British (October 26, 1917). The village had already been wiped out by the bombardment, but the position, which dominated Ypres and Roulers, was an important one. The fighting there was of the fiercest, Hindenburg having ordered it to be held at all costs. However, the British broke down the enemy's stubborn resistance.
BETWEEN BROODSEINDE AND PASSCHENDAELE. MONUMENT TO 148 FALLEN OFFICERS AND SOLDIERS OF THE 85TH CANADIAN BATTALIONBETWEEN BROODSEINDE AND PASSCHENDAELE. MONUMENT TO 148 FALLEN OFFICERS AND SOLDIERS OF THE 85TH CANADIAN BATTALION
WHAT WAS ONCE PASSCHENDAELE. THE CHURCH WAS ON THE HILLOCK IN THE BACKGROUNDWHAT WAS ONCE PASSCHENDAELE. THE CHURCH WAS ON THE HILLOCK IN THE BACKGROUND
WESTROOSEBEKE, SEEN FROM THE RUINED CHURCHWESTROOSEBEKE, SEEN FROM THE RUINED CHURCH
Beyond the church turn to the left.The undulating road goes straight toWestroosebeke.
Westroosebeke was taken at the same time as Passchendaele, during the British offensive of October 29, 1917. These two positions, lost in April, 1918, were retaken on September 30 by the Belgian army under King Albert.
POELCAPPELLE. THE ROAD FROM LANGEMARCK TO DIXMUDEPOELCAPPELLE. THE ROAD FROM LANGEMARCK TO DIXMUDE
The village was completely destroyed.On entering, turn to the right and pass the church.A few broken tombstones mark the site of the churchyard.
Retracing his steps, the tourist turns to the right into the Ypres-Roulers Road,which describes a bend to reachPoelcappelle. This village was the scene of fierce fighting in December, 1914, and May, 1915, and is now in ruins. There are numerous redoubts to right and left.Just beyond the village, leave the Dixmude Road on the right, and take the one leading to Langemarck.
Beyond the cross-roads there is a confused heap of rails and broken trucks in the middle of a piece of shell-torn ground.
At the fork, take the road to the right and enter the ruined village ofLangemarck.
The photograph below shows: in the background, a mound formed by the ruins of the church; in the foreground, a tank.
Langemarck, defended by the French in 1914, was evacuated on December 17 of that year. Recaptured, the town was lost again on April 21, 1915, during the German gas attack.
Keep along the road, leaving on the left the ruins of the church, and a little further on the remains of the château(photo, p. 67).
Cross the railway (l. c.) and then go on toHouthulst Forest, captured by the Germans in 1914, and retaken in 1918 (see p. 46). In June, 1919, the roads through the forest were impracticable for motor-cars.
Return to the fork at the entrance to Langemarck, turn to the right, and take the road to Boesinghe, crossing the Hanebeek. The road follows the Ypres-Thourout railway, on both sides of which are numerous redoubts.Cross the ruins of Pilkem, 300 yards beyond, which is a rather large British cemetery.
At the next fork in the road turn to the right and cross the railway (l. c.).On the left is another cemetery.Turn again to the left. Notice in passing a third cemetery, then a few yards further on the ruins of a mill.Cross the canal at the Pont de Boesinghe.
On reaching the crossing of the main road from Dixmude to Ypres, turn to the right.On the left, the remains of Boesinghe Château stand in the middle of a park, the trees of which are cut to pieces.
LANGEMARCK, WITH DESTROYED TANK. THE MOUND IN THE MIDDLE DISTANCE IS ALL THAT REMAINS OF THE CHURCHLANGEMARCK, WITH DESTROYED TANK. THE MOUND IN THE MIDDLE DISTANCE IS ALL THAT REMAINS OF THE CHURCH
LANGEMARCK CHÂTEAU BEFORE THE WAR Now razed to the ground (photo, Antony, Ypres).LANGEMARCK CHÂTEAU BEFORE THE WARNow razed to the ground(photo, Antony, Ypres).
Follow the road running along the canal.The latter, owing to the upheaval of the ground by shell-fire, is often lost to view. 1,500 yards from Boesinghe, the site of Het Sas village, where the lock used to stand, may still be located. The fighting was very severe there, especially in 1914.
BOESINGHE. RUINED CHÂTEAU AND DEVASTATED PARKBOESINGHE. RUINED CHÂTEAU AND DEVASTATED PARK
ENTRANCE TO YPRES. YPRES CANAL AT BOESINGHE, SEEN FROM RUE DE DIXMUDE, YPRES (Compare with view below, taken before the War.)ENTRANCE TO YPRES. YPRES CANAL AT BOESINGHE, SEEN FROM RUE DE DIXMUDE, YPRES(Compare with view below, taken before the War.)
Return to Boesinghe, leave the road just taken on the left, and cross the railway (l. c.).
The road runs alongside the Yperlée river and canal for some distance. Numerous traces of footbridges are to be seen over both river and canal, the course of which can no longer be distinguished with certainty.
The road next turns sharply to the left, crosses the Lys-Yperlée Canal, then passes the dock of the Yser-Ypres Canal(photo above),and entersYpresby the Dixmude Gate.
ENTRANCE TO YPRES BEFORE THE WAR (See above—photo, Antony, Ypres.)ENTRANCE TO YPRES BEFORE THE WAR(See above—photo, Antony, Ypres.)
GENERAL VIEW OF YPRES, BEFORE THE WAR (photo, Antony, Ypres)GENERAL VIEW OF YPRES, BEFORE THE WAR (photo, Antony, Ypres)
Few names awaken more memories than that of Ypres—a city of incomparable splendour in the Middle Ages, and of which nothing now remains but a heap of ruins. Of the last precious traces of this ancient prosperity, the rich and splendid buildings which filled the mind with wonder—the immense Cloth Hall, the beautiful cathedral, the churches, the sumptuous mansions, the sculptured houses—the German guns have spared nothing. History furnishes few examples of such grandeur followed by destruction so swift and so complete. Ypres is now but a memory.
The Town of Ypres (Latin Ypra, Flemish Ieperen) grew up in the 10th century around a fortified castle, rebuilt about 958 by Baudoin, Count of Flanders. This castle had been in existence since the 8th century, but only the ruins had survived Norman invasions.
The town, favourably situated in the centre of the maritime plain with its rich grassy meadows intersected by canals, prospered exceedingly. A numerous population sprang up of merchants and artisans, whose chief sources of wealth were the manufacture and sale of cloth.
As early as the 12th, but especially in the 13th and 14th centuries, Ypres, thanks to important privileges granted by the Counts of Flanders, became a considerable town, and possessed 4,000 looms.
Flanders, the meeting-point of the three great European states—England, France and Germany—was then the industrial centrepar excellenceof the west and the rendezvous of all the merchants of the old world. This explains the splendour of the towns of Flanders in the Middle Ages, not only Ypres, but Bruges, Ghent, etc.
This prosperitywas often a temptation to the Kings of France, who led many an expedition into Flanders. Ypres was taken by Louis VI. in 1128, by Philippe-Auguste in 1213, by Philippe-le-Bel in 1297, but the town was little damaged in these wars.
It suffered more in the 14th century. Riots, and the siege and destruction of the town by the people of Ghent in 1383, caused many of the weavers to emigrate, and left as its only industry the manufacture of Valenciennes lace. At that time the Counts of Flanders were French princes. Robert de Béthune was succeeded in 1322 by the Count of Nevers, whose family reigned until 1384. This dynasty ended with Louis-le-Mâle, and Philippe-le-Hardi, Duke of Burgundy, became Count of Flanders. Under the rule of these Dukes, who were fairly wise and moderate statesmen—Flanders being a source of considerable revenue, and the Flemish people quick to revolt against any violation of their privileges—Ypres prospered greatly.
YPRES IN THE 16TH CENTURYYPRES IN THE 16TH CENTURY
In 1481 Flanders passed under the rule of Austria (Marie, heiress of Burgundy, had married the Archduke Maximilian), then in 1558 under that of Spain. In 1559 it replaced Thérouanne as the centre of the diocese.
At that time it had lost much of its splendour. Towards the end of the 15th centuryit was depopulated by a dreadful pestilence, and about the middle of the following century, a second outbreak completed the ruin of the town. It was just beginning to recover when it was captured by theGueuxand the troops of the Duc d'Albe and Alexandre Farnèse, who massacred most of the inhabitants.
In the 17th century Ypres was taken by the French on four occasions—1648, 1649, 1658 and 1678—finally reverting to France under the Treaty of Nimègue at about the latter date. Vauban fortified it. Retaken by the Imperial Troops in 1715, Ypres was restored to France in 1792, and under the Empire became the capital of the Département of Lys. The treaties of 1815 gave it back to the Netherlands, and since 1830 it has formed part of the Kingdom of Belgium.
GERMAN BOMBARDMENT OF THE ASYLUMGERMAN BOMBARDMENT OF THE ASYLUM
In 1914 the population numbered 18,000. Its principal industries were the manufacture of woollen goods, printed cottons, linens, ribbons, and Valenciennes lace. Its tanneries and dye works were also of considerable importance. It was a clean, well-built town, watered by the river Yperlée. The many arms of the latter ran through the streets of the town, enabling the boats loaded with merchandise to come right up to the warehouses.
These waterways are now covered in. Formerly there was a path on each side of them, which explains the exceptional width of the streets and squares of Ypres.
The tourist enters Ypres by the Dixmude Gate.
At No. 54 Rue de Dixmude is the façade of the Maison Biebuygk, on the right. Built in 1544, this house was one of the most remarkable in Ypres. Immediately below the gable were two carved medallions representing the sun and the moon. The great pointed arch which framed the gable windows gave exceptional grace to the façade (photos, p. 73).
At No. 66 of the same street, on the left, the 18th century façade shown in the photographs (p. 74), was still standing in July, 1919. It was decorated with statues of the Virgin Mary and St. François, under fluted niches with carved borders.
BIEBUYGK HOUSE (No. 54, Rue de Dixmude), BEFORE THE WAR. IT WAS ONE OF THE HANDSOMEST HOUSES IN YPRES (photo, Antony, Ypres)BIEBUYGK HOUSE (No. 54, Rue de Dixmude), BEFORE THE WAR. IT WAS ONE OF THE HANDSOMEST HOUSES IN YPRES (photo, Antony, Ypres)
BIEBUYGK HOUSE, AS THE WAR LEFT ITBIEBUYGK HOUSE, AS THE WAR LEFT IT
ST. FRANÇOIS SCHOOL, RUE DE DIXMUDE, BEFORE THE WAR (Photo, Antony, Ypres.)ST. FRANÇOIS SCHOOL, RUE DE DIXMUDE, BEFORE THE WAR(Photo, Antony, Ypres.)
ST. FRANÇOIS SCHOOL, AFTER THE GERMAN BOMBARDMENTSST. FRANÇOIS SCHOOL, AFTER THE GERMAN BOMBARDMENTS
YPRES. THE GRANDE PLACE ON MARKET-DAY, BEFORE THE WAR (See below. Photo, Antony, Ypres.)YPRES. THE GRANDE PLACE ON MARKET-DAY, BEFORE THE WAR (See below. Photo, Antony, Ypres.)
Arriving at the Grande Place, the imposing ruins of theNieuwerkand theCloth Hallare seen on the right.
WHAT THE GERMAN SHELLS LEFT OF IT (see above)WHAT THE GERMAN SHELLS LEFT OF IT (see above)
YPRES. RUINS OF THE CLOTH HALL, SEEN FROM ST. MARTIN'S CATHEDRAL. FRAGMENTS OF THE LATTER ARE VISIBLE IN THE FOREGROUNDYPRES. RUINS OF THE CLOTH HALL, SEEN FROM ST. MARTIN'S CATHEDRAL.FRAGMENTS OF THE LATTER ARE VISIBLE IN THE FOREGROUND
The Cloth Hall, containing extensive warehouses, in which the sale of cloth was carried on, was built in the 13th and 14th centuries. It consisted of a series of buildings grouped around a rectangular court. The Hall proper was distinguished from a building called the Nieuwerk, added in the 17th century. The southern building of the hall had a magnificent façade, flanked on the east by the gable of the Nieuwerk and surmounted by a large belfry in the centre. Bold turrets stood at both ends of this façade. Rather spare in ornament, the long succession of glazed and blind windows constituted the grandeur of the façade. On the ground-floor, which was lighted by a row of quatrefoil windows in pointed arches, there were forty-eight rectangular doors.
Above these doors were the high windows of the upper storey, the Hall having two floors. These windows were alternately glazed and blind—a method frequently adopted in the Middle Ages, to avoid weakness in the walls, without detracting from the symmetry of the exterior. This storey was reached by staircases, access to which was gained through doors at each end of the façade.
The glazed windows were decorated with three trefoils supported on two arches. The blind windows were similar to the windows of the ground-floor, except that the latter were less lofty. The two arches formed niches, each of which contained a statue: that of a Count of Flanders (the Counts and Countesses from Baudoin Bras-de-Fer to Charles Quint were represented) or of a notable citizen of Ypres, such as Melchior Broederlam, the painter. These statues, some of which were restored in the 19th century, rested on a corbel apparently supported by a small figure bearing the coat-of-arms of the sovereign represented.
YPRES. THE CLOTH HALL, NIEUWERK AND CATHEDRAL (in the background) The 13th—14th Hall had a magnificent façade, surmounted by a high bell-tower (photo, Antony, Ypres).YPRES. THE CLOTH HALL, NIEUWERK AND CATHEDRAL (in the background)The 13th—14th Hall had a magnificent façade, surmounted by a high bell-tower(photo, Antony, Ypres).
The upper portion of the walls was decorated with an ornamental frieze and a battlement bordered with fine moulding. The frieze was composed of a tricusped arcade with small columns carried on corbels with carved heads.
Behind the battlements ran a sentry-way, while at the ends of the façade turrets decorated with arcades and surmounted by octagonal spires, served as watch-towers.
THE WINDOWS OF THE FIRST STORY OF THE CLOTH HALL Every alternate window was blind, and was ornamented with statues of the Counts of Flanders or other notable persons of the city (photo, Antony, Ypres).THE WINDOWS OF THE FIRST STORY OF THE CLOTH HALLEvery alternate window was blind, and was ornamented with statues of the Counts of Flanders or other notable persons of the city (photo, Antony, Ypres).
The Belfry rose from the centre of the buildings, of which it was the oldest part, the foundation-stone having been laid by BaudoinIX., Countof Flanders, in 1201. Square in plan, it consisted of three stories. Its exterior, like that of the façade, was decorated with arches, and was lighted with windows ornamented with trefoils. It had two rows of battlements, four corner-turrets, and a timber-work roof surmounted by a campanile, above which rose a small spire. At the base of this campanile there were four copper eagles, dating from 1330. At the foot of the belfry a door, flanked by two pilasters, led to the inner court of the Hall. Over this door was a modern statue of Nôtre-Dame-de-Tuine, with the Lion of Flanders above.
The belfry served all the purposes of a Hôtel-de-Ville (previous to the 14th century there were no Hôtels-de-Ville properly so-called). It was there that the representatives of the guilds held their meetings, and that the charters of the guilds were kept in great coffers with manifold locks. There, also, the archives of the town were stored. The bottom storey was used as a prison. From the summit, unceasing watch was kept, to warn the citizens of danger, especially that of fire.
YPRES. ALL THAT REMAINS OF THE FAÇADE OF THE CLOTH HALLYPRES. ALL THAT REMAINS OF THE FAÇADE OF THE CLOTH HALL
The roof of the Hall was pitched very high, in order the more easily to get rid of snow and rain water. It was gilded and emblazoned with the arms of the city and those of the County of Flanders. This roof, with its dormer windows, did not cover a stone vaulting, but a panelled ceiling. Inside the upper storey were large wainscotted galleries, which, in the 19th century, were divided by partitions and adorned with mural decorations.
PORTAL OF THE BELL-TOWER The collapse of the façade which framed the tower (photo below) left the latter standing alone. The lower portion still exists, thanks to its massive construction (photo, Antony, Ypres).PORTAL OF THE BELL-TOWERThe collapse of the façade which framed the tower (photo below) left the latter standing alone. The lower portion still exists, thanks to its massive construction (photo, Antony, Ypres).
THE PORTAL BEFORE THE WARTHE PORTAL BEFORE THE WAR
THE PAUWELS ROOM BEFORE THE WAR (photo, Antony, Ypres)THE PAUWELS ROOM BEFORE THE WAR (photo, Antony, Ypres)
During the last century, the Hall was frequently restored and embellished. In 1876 the walls of the eastern half of the southern building were decorated with twelve mural paintings by Ferdinand Pauwels, representing the principal events in the history of Ypres, in the days of its prosperity (1187 to the siege by the people of Ghent in 1383). The artist displayed exquisite taste, especially in the fresco depicting the "Wedding of Mahaut de Béthune with Mathias de Lorraine." The western half of the gallery was decorated by the artist Delbecke, with paintings depicting the life of a cloth merchant. Owing to the death of the artist, the last picture was never finished. This gallery was used as a banqueting hall. A number of statues by Puyenbroeck of Brussels, along the southern façade, had replaced the originals, badly damaged during the Revolution (1793).
The River Yperlée formerly flowed past the western façade and, until 1848, there was a flight of steps with a double balustrade (17th century) to facilitate the transfer of merchandise from the boats to the warehouses.
THE PAUWELS ROOM IN DEC., 1914 (photo, Antony, Ypres)THE PAUWELS ROOM IN DEC., 1914 (photo, Antony, Ypres)
THE JUNCTION OF THE CLOTH HALL WITH THE NIEUWERK (photo, Antony, Ypres)THE JUNCTION OF THE CLOTH HALL WITH THE NIEUWERK (photo, Antony, Ypres)
The Nieuwerk did not detract from the imposing appearance of the southern façade, of which it formed the continuation. Renaissance in style, the plans are said to have been the work of J. Sporeman (about 1575). Building was begun early in the 17th century and finished in 1624.
The ground-floor formed an open hall, 20 feet in width, the vaulting of which was carried on slender cylindrical columns, joined by irregular arcades. The building comprises two stories, the first of which communicated with that of the Cloth Hall. The large high windows of the façades were very close together. The roof was pierced with high and very ornamental dormer-windows.
The Nieuwerk was restored about 1862. In the Chapelle Echevinale, frescoes by Guffens and J. Swerts, and stained-glass was renovated, and at the same time a fine fireplace was built by Malfait of Brussels. Old mural paintings, representing St. Mark and St. John, and a frieze, depicting the Counts of Flanders from 1322 to 1476, were discovered and restored. In the middle of the hall stood a small equestrian statue of John of Brabant (1252—1294) by A. Fiers.
This slightly-built Nieuwerk could not long withstand the bombardment. The south gable, struck on November 21, 1914, collapsed, while on the following day the Cloth Hall burst into flames. A few weeks' later the Nieuwerk was completely destroyed.
THE SHERIFF'S ROOM IN THE NIEUWERK, DECEMBER, 1914 The collapse of the first floor left visible the remains of the decoration seen in the photo below (photo, Antony, Ypres).THE SHERIFF'S ROOM IN THE NIEUWERK, DECEMBER, 1914The collapse of the first floor left visible the remains of the decoration seen in the photo below(photo, Antony, Ypres).
THE SHERIFF'S ROOM IN THE NIEUWERK, BEFORE THE WAR (photo, Antony, Ypres)THE SHERIFF'S ROOM IN THE NIEUWERK, BEFORE THE WAR (photo, Antony, Ypres)
OLD HOUSES WHICH, BEFORE THE WAR, WERE THE PRIDE OF THE VANDENPEEREBOOM SQUARE (photo, Antony, Ypres)OLD HOUSES WHICH, BEFORE THE WAR, WERE THE PRIDE OF THE VANDENPEEREBOOM SQUARE (photo, Antony, Ypres)
Turn to the right in the Place Vandenpeereboom, formerly an ornamental pond, now filled in.
Here used to stand a row of old houses with double façade, now completely destroyed. Here also, to the north of the Cloth Hall, stood the Cathedral of St. Martin.
ST. MARTIN'S CATHEDRALST. MARTIN'S CATHEDRAL
ST. MARTIN'S CATHEDRAL AS IT WAS In the background: the Cloth Hall. Compare with photo below (photo, Antony, Ypres).ST. MARTIN'S CATHEDRAL AS IT WASIn the background: the Cloth Hall. Compare with photo below (photo, Antony, Ypres).
The Church of St. Martin (which became a cathedral in 1559) replaced an older church of the 11th century. Built in the 13th century, its choir dated from 1221, and its nave from the second half of that century. The foundation-stone was laid by Marguerite of Constantinople. The western tower dated only from the 15th century, and replaced a tower which had collapsed in 1433. The new tower was 175 feet in height, and was to have been twice as high. Built from the plans of Martin Untenhove of Malines, it was severe in style.
The plan of the Cathedral was a Latin cross, and terminated in a semicircular choir. It underwent important restorations during the last century.
The façade of the south arm of the transept was of unusually great width.