APPENDIX III.
Observationsduring a Voyage of Research on the East Coast of Africa, from Cape Guardafui south to the Island of Zanzibar, in the H. C.’s cruisers Ternate, (Captain T. Smee,) and Sylph schooner (Lieutenant Hardy). With short notes by Richard F. Burton.
January 2nd (1811), Wednesday. Sailed from Bombay in company with our consort, the Sylph schooner, Lieut. Hardy, having under convoy two merchant vessels bound to Mocha.
3rd, Thursday. Spoke Lieut. Hardy, who informed us his chronometer had unfortunately stopped: at noon the thermometer in the shade stood at 79°, lat. obsd. 18° 16′ N., long. 71° 36′ E., wind fresh from N.N.E. with fair weather.
4th, Friday. We had fine weather with a light northeasterly wind. Our thermometer, which had been fixed in the companion-hatch of the gun-room, was yesterday in the evening removed to a more exposed situation, to the Captain’s cabin on deck. At noon to-day observed it had fallen to 78°, being one degree lower than yesterday: lat. 17° 48′ N., long. 69° 47′ E.
5th, Saturday. During the preceding night a heavydew had fallen, but the air to-day felt pleasantly dry and cool. Thermometer 77½°, lat. 17° 29′ N., long. 68° 46′ E.
6th, Sunday. We were in lat. 16° N., long. 66° 45′ E., thermometer stationary at 77½°.
7th, Monday. In lat. 16° 13′ N., long. 64° 29′ E. The thermometer at 76°, light winds from the N.E. with cool weather.
8th, Tuesday. The weather still continued delightful with a pleasant north-easterly breeze. The thermometer at 75°, lat. to-day at noon 15° 44′ N., long. per chronometer 62° 30′ E.; by a lunar observation taken at 8P.M.61° 53′, variation of the compass per azimuth 52 miles west.
9th, Wednesday. In lat. 15° 32′ N., long. by chronometer 60° 44′ E.; and by a lunar taken at 8P.M.60°55′55′. No alteration in the state of the winds or weather, and the thermometer remained at 75°.
10th, Thursday. In lat. 15° 2′ N., long. per chronometer 58° 54′ E.; at 8P.M.by lunar 58° 27′ E.; thermometer 76°.
11th, Friday. Lat. 14° 40′, long. per chronometer 47° 11′ E., and by lunar at 8P.M.56° 20′. The thermometer at 77°.
12th, Saturday. We parted with the convoy, and, changing our course from W. to S.S.W., we steered toward the Island of Socotra. At noon observed an immense shoal of porpoises about half a mile astern of us, passing with great velocity in a direction from the north to the south-east. In the evening a rank smell of fish spawn was strongly perceptible. Thermometer at noon 77½°, lat. 14° 35′ N., long. by chronometer 55° 37′ E. The wind from the east, with fine weather, and a cloudy sky.About sunset the appearance of what seemed to be land, in the west part of the horizon, produced considerable alarm, which was soon dissipated, on observing that the clouds which caused this strange and remarkable deception began to alter their forms.
13th, Sunday. At 5P.M.steering S.W., we had a view of the Island of Socotra (Note 1) through the haze, bearing W. by S. ¼ S., distant 10 or 12 leagues. Stood towards it with an intention of nearing the shore before daylight next morning, in order that we might have an opportunity of ascertaining the position of the easternmost point of the island, but the Sylph making the signal that she had struck soundings, we hove to for the remainder of the night. Thermometer 78°, lat. 13° 13′ N., long. 55° 11′ 15″ E.
14th, Monday. We sounded, but found no ground, with a line of 80 fathoms. Made sail again at daybreak, and steering W. by S. coasted along the south side of the island about 15 miles from the shore. Lat. 12° 27′ N., long. by chronometer at noon 54° 57′ E. At 2P.M.the eastern extremity of Socotra bore N. by W., and, according to our observations, is situated in lat. 12° 34′ N.; in longitude, from the chronometer at noon, 45° 45′ 33″, E.
15th, Tuesday. Continued our course along shore, in from 18 to 27 fathoms, over a bottom of red coral. Socotra towards the south presents an appearance extremely dreary; its arid rocks seemed destitute of trees or verdure of any kind, at least, none were visible to us, though frequently examined through our best glasses at only a few miles distance. On approaching it from the east, land showed in the form of a high promontory, termed bynavigators the Dolphin’s nose.[83]As we brought the south cape of the island abreast of us an extensive rocky precipice of considerable height, and remarkable for its uniformity in this respect, approaching close to the water’s edge, concealed the land in the interior and appeared to occupy the whole centre of the island, the land at each extremity terminating in irregular mountains, some of which on the east are of a good height. We ascertained the position of the south cape or headland to be in lat. 12° 20′ N., long. 53° 37′ E., and that of the western extremity as far as visible in lat. 12° 24′ N., long. 53° 26′ E. Continuing to steer W. by S., we saw the two small square isles called by the English The Brothers, bearing about 50 miles W.S.W. of the south cape of Socotra; the eastern one named by the Arabs Duraga,[84]or Degree Island, is situated, according to our observation, in lat. 12° 7′ N., long. 53° 23′ E.; from the east it has very much the appearance of a castle or citadel. The other, called Sumhaa, is about 8 or 10 miles west of Duraja, has a remarkable rocky process on one end bearing a striking resemblance to a sentry-box or watch-tower. Its position is in lat. 20° 8′ N., long. 53° 18′ E. The weather still fine, with a cloudy sky, the thermometer at 76½; lat. to-day at noon 12° 2′ N., long. per chronometer 53° 30′ E.
16th, Wednesday. Pursuing our course west and bysouth, we at noon passed the Island of Abdulcuria,[85]the disjointed rocks of which appeared at a distance like so many separate isles. It extends in a N.W. and N.E. direction, and bears from the south Cape of Socotra W. by S. 100 miles, and 50 miles W. 1/2 S. of the Brothers; the island is an appendage of Socotra, to the chief of which it is subject; it is said to afford plenty of fresh water.[86]Passing this island, the high land on the eastern extremity of the African Continent presented itself to our view, and at 9P.M.we hove to with the ship’s head to the S.E.—Cape Guardafui, bearing W. by N. 1/2 N., distant 9 or 10 leagues. We were still favoured with fine cool weather, the thermometer at 77°, with light winds varying from N.E. to E. and S.E., and the sky generally overspread with light-coloured clouds: with the exception of the night of the 5th, no dew has fallen since we sailed. Lat. at noon 11° 49′ N.; long. by chronometer 52° 13′ E., variation by azimuth 5° 31′ W.; the position of Abdulcuria according to our observations is in North lat. 12°, and long. 52° 20′ E.
17th, Thursday. At sunrise made sail again, steering in a S.W. direction along the Continent of Africa in from 35 to 70 fathoms,—white sand and coral; but about 4P.M.it falling calm, and finding a current setting us inshore at the rate of half-a-mile an hour, came to in 38 fathoms to prevent ourselves being imbayed. At 6, abreeze springing up from the eastward, encouraged us to make another attempt, but presently dying away, we were again obliged to anchor. While lying here we put out our lines and caught one fine rock-fish, which are probably very plentiful, as we observed our consort, the Sylph, haul up several in a short space of time. At 10P.M.weighed with a light easterly wind, and stood to the S.E. We had this day cloudy weather, with light variable winds; the thermometer at 78½°. Lat. 11° 41′ N.; long. per chronometer at noon 51° 14′ S. According to this as Cape Guardafui is in N. lat. 11° 49′, long. 51° 13′ E.
18th, Friday. Working off shore with light baffling winds, in from 45 to 55 fathoms, sand. The weather cloudy, with slight showers of rain, and a lowering sky. A considerable dew had fallen during the night, and the air to-day felt damp and unpleasant. The thermometer at 78½°; found the current setting us in-shore at the rate of one mile per hour. Lat. 11° 30′ N.; long. by chronometer at noon 51° 31′ 15″ E.
19th, Saturday. Dew at night, and during the day southerly winds continued to prevail with damp cloudy weather, and occasional showers of rain; the thermometer at 78½°. Tacking off and on shore, we had in the course of the day another sight of the Island of Abdulcuria and the Brothers, the former bearing N.W. of us, and the latter in a north-easterly direction. Lat. obsd. 11° 42′ N.; long. by lunar at 9A.M.51° 56′, and by chronometer at noon 52° 5′, E., variation by azimuth 7° W. About 6P.M.in attempting to tack, the ship refused to stay, and, in consequence, got foul of the Sylph, which we at the time had in tow. Fortunately, however, after some alarm and a little trouble, we soon got clear again, withoutmaterial damage being sustained by either vessel.
20th, Sunday. Continued working along the African shore with fresh southerly winds, the thermometer at 79½°, Cape Guardafui and the Brothers still in sight. Abdulcuria at sunset bore N. and by E. of us distant 14 or 15 leagues. Lat. 11° 27′ N.; long. per lunar at 9A.M., 52° 24′ E., and by chron. at noon 52° 29′ E., variation per azimuth 6½° W.
21st, Monday. Still working against the southerly winds; no land in sight. The thermometer at 79½°. Lat. observed at noon 10° 50′ N.; long. by lunar at 10A.M.52° 37′, and by chron. at noon 52° 43′ E., variation, 8° 20′ W.
22nd, Tuesday. During the early part of the day fresh southerly winds, with the thermometer at 79½°. Towards the evening it fell calm, when we lowered the boat and tried the current; found it setting to the northward at the rate of half a knot an hour. Lat. observed 10° 43′ N.; long. by chron. 53° E.
23rd, Wednesday. We had light southerly winds and calm in the morning, but a northerly breeze springing up in the afternoon permitted us to lay our course S.W. Still no land to be seen. The thermometer at 79½°. Lat. observed 10° 28′ N.; long. by chron. 53° E.
24th, Thursday. Steering W.S.W. with a fresh northerly breeze. The weather damp and misty, and frequent drizzling rain. Thermometer 78½°. Lat. observed 9° 8′ N.; long. by chron. 51° 55′ 15″ E.
25th, Friday. Proceeding westward, we in course of the forenoon saw land, which, as we now approached that part of the coast where the objects of our investigation lay, was looked to with anxious expectation. It boreN.W. by W. distant from us 5 or 6 leagues, and by the situation of the ship, knew it to be the land between Cape Orfui[87]and Cape Basseos:[88]as this coast has been hitherto considered as desert and inaccessible, we were anxious to examine it, but the thick haze which hung over the land, and the light winds and currents which we never failed to experience on nearing the shore, obliged us to heave off towards the evening to avoid getting imbayed; the land, as it appeared to us, seemed fully to justify the descriptions given of it. It seemed of a moderate uniform height, and barren and sandy, without vestige of habitation, or vegetable production of any kind. We hove to for a short time in the afternoon, and discovered by striking soundings in thirty fathoms, and suddenly deepening again, that we had happened on a sandbank, many of which probably lay along this coast. While we lay to the lines were put overboard, and shark and rock-fish of various kinds being found in great plenty, a good number was soon taken, sufficient to furnish the whole ship’s company with a fresh meal in the evening: made sail again, standing out from the land. We had to-day moderate north-easterly winds with fair weather; the thermometer at 80°. Lat. observed 8° 20′ N.; long. by chron. at noon 50° 32′ E.; variation 6° 12′ W. Immediately after discovering land, we perceived a large dow or boat close in shore, which appeared eager to avoid us.
26th, Saturday. At daylight we could see nothing either of the boat or land, having lost sight of both during the night. Standing in, we again saw the coast about 7in the morning. Its appearance was similar to what we sailed along the preceding day, only it was more flat, and considerably lower,[89]but equally barren. Kept our way along shore at the distance of about 6 or 8 miles, in from 10 to 25 fathoms, sand and shells. A little before sunset we hove to in 25 fathoms, and were again very successful in fishing. At 6P.M.made sail, still keeping a respectable distance from the shore. The weather clear and warm, with steady easterly winds, the thermometer at 79½°. Lat. 7° 10′ N.; long. per chron. 49° 42′ 30″ E.
27th, Sunday. Continued our way along the coast three or four miles from the shore, in from 20 to 25 fathoms, sand and gravel, with a very strong current[90]in our favour. The land opposite us to-day was low and even, and had somewhat a better appearance than any we had for some days before seen. Green spots were here and there observable, and we could distinguish on the shore several natives and a few cattle, but of what description we were not near enough to ascertain. Fish still continued to be caught in great abundance. About 3P.M.saw higher land[91]ahead, which we took to be Cape Bassas (Note 2), the position of which, though described to be a very dangerous place, had never been accurately laid down; we were therefore anxious to determine it, and to have an opportunity of doing so properly, kept working to windward that we might not pass it during the night. Windsstill easterly with warm weather. The thermometer at 79½°. Lat. 5° 37′ N.; long. by lunar at 8P.M.49° 20′ E.; variation per amplitude 8° 40′ W.
28th, Monday. Passed the elevated land seen yesterday afternoon, and at 2P.M.Cape Bassas was abreast of us, distant a few miles. The real situation of this cape we had difficulty to determine, for the land along, low and smooth, had so much sameness in appearance, and that forming the cape itself so little remarkable from the rest, that had we not observed the coast to recede considerably on each side, making opposite to us an evident projection or headland, we should still have remained in great uncertainty respecting it. At 5 or 6 miles’ distance from the shore struck soundings in 19 fathoms, hard ground, and we had still a strong current in our favour, but we observed little or no rippling about the ship. The position of the cape (Note 3) according to the mean of several good observations is in N. lat. 4° 44′, and long. 48° 17′ E., variation per azimuth 9° 7′ W. After ascertaining the situation of this cape[92]we stood to windward during the night. To-day the weather continued fine with a moderate easterly wind, the thermometer at 78°. Lat. observed at noon 4° 59′ N.
29th, Tuesday. Stood in again and steered along the coast to the southward of Cape Bassas at the distance of three miles in from 10 to 20 fathoms sand and shells. The land here was white and sandy, but in several places there was apparently tolerable pasturage ground, on which were seen several small groups of huts and some pretty numerous herds of cattle. By the number of people observed on these spots this tract seemed better frequented; but its general appearance was similar with that to thenorthward of the cape. During the preceding night a considerable dew had fallen, and the weather to-day was damp and cloudy, the thermometer at 78½°. As the supposed site of the river Doara[93](Note 4) was near at hand, the examination of which formed one of our principal objects, it became desirable to avoid passing any part of the coast in the night, but towards the evening the wind unfortunately began to blow very fresh with a heavy swell, and being on bad holding ground, we were once more reluctantly compelled to work to windward. Lat. observed at noon 4° 14′ N.; long. by lunar at 2P.M.47° 42′ E.; variation per azimuth 9° 15′ W.
30th, Wednesday. Continued steering S.W. about 2½ miles from the land, in from 7 to 10 fathoms, white sand and coral, the Sylph keeping her course half way between us and the shore in regular soundings of 6 and 7 fathoms. This day’s sail presented the same barren prospect as the coast we had already traced; it was still low and sandy, remarkably white, and to all appearance completely desert; neither huts, people, nor cattle of any description to be observed. The shore was in many places rocky, and a high surf beat over it. At 2P.M.breakers appeared ahead, distant less than 2 miles, and a little beyond them, low land, which seemed to be an island; to weather these it became necessary to haul off shore, and immediately after taking this precaution, the wind began again to blow exceeding fresh, with a very heavy swell, which forced us to continue standing out tosea during the whole night. Weather still damp and cloudy, and the thermometer at 79½. Lat. observed at noon 3° 30′ N.; long. by chron. 47° 25′ E.
31st, Thursday. The wind increased to a gale and blew furiously during the whole day and following night, attended with a tremendous heavy swell, which prevented us from approaching the shore near enough to see anything distinctly; we could only remark that the land seemed to be higher than what we had lately seen. Weather still damp and cloudy, and the thermometer at 79°. Lat. observed at noon 2° 44′ N.; long. by chron. 46° 5′ E.; variation by amplitude 10° W.
February 1st, Friday. The wind moderating, we continued our course along the coast in very irregular soundings of from 10 to 65 fathoms, rocks and gravel. At 9A.M.the mosques of Magadosho were seen bearing W.S.W. distant 9 or 10 miles. The late gale has therefore carried us farther to the southward of the reported mouth of the Doara—a mortifying circumstance, and to us a very severe disappointment, for we had promised ourselves much gratification in exploring that river—so interesting, and at the same time so little known. At noon Magadosho bore W.N.W. of the ship two or three miles; here we sounded, but could find no ground with a line of 80 fathoms. The town, which is large and irregular, is situated on an uneven sandy piece of ground close to the beach; the land behind considerably lower than that on either side. The houses resemble those seen in the towns on the coast of Arabia and Persia, and are apparently built of stones and mud, of a low, square form, with small doors and windows, and have all flat roofs. The most conspicuous objects are the mosques already mentioned;there are four of them; three of which are placed in the town, the other among some straggling buildings, a little to the northward. The land both to the N.E. and S.W. is of a reddish colour, thickly covered with black spots, and upon them some low-spreading trees, which have a very uncommon appearance. About ten miles to the southward is a remarkable white sandy hill, which, with the red hills already mentioned, are excellent marks in approaching Magadosho. The sea-shore immediately opposite the town is sandy and guarded by a reef, which, running from the rocks on the N.E. to the S.W. end of the town, extends to about a quarter of a mile from the beach; within the anchorage is said to be excellent. To the S.W., as to the N.E., the shore is in many places low and rocky, forming what has been described as islands (Note 5). We were doubtful of this, but did not go near enough to ascertain. We observed a large village on the northernmost of these supposed islands, a few miles south of Magadosho. Having determined the position of the town, we were in hopes that we might at last be enabled to anchor, and pursue at leisure the inquiries we proposed to make here concerning some of the objects of our search, but our bad fortune continued to attend us, for the wind began again to blow very fresh, with an exceedingly heavy swell setting in towards the shore. Under these circumstances, we did not think it prudent to trust ourselves at anchor in an open unprotected roadstead with a reef of rocks under our lee; we therefore bore away along the coast to the S.W. of Magadosho till the evening, when we stood out to sea and passed a night more tempestuous than any we had hitherto experienced. The weather still damp, with heavy dews at night, thermometerat 78°. Lat. observed at noon 2° 4′ N.; long. by chron. at noon 45° 46′ E. According to us, Magadosho is situated in N. lat. 2° 3′,[94]and in long. by chron. 42° 43′ E.
2nd, Saturday. Being driven from Magadosho the preceding night, we intended if possible to make Meeya or Maiea,[95]a place laid down about 14 or 15 miles to the S.W. of Madagascar. At twilight, however, saw nothing of such a place, and were again forced to stand out to sea during the night, when we must have passed it; for at noon to-day we were off the town of Brava in N. lat. 1° 11′, and long. 44° 9′ E. This town is situated under some very high reddish land, spotted with black rocks, and has several small islands abreast of it at a very short distance from the shore, one of which, to the southward, opposite a white sandy patch of high ground, has a tower or lighthouse on it. The land between Magadosho and Brava is uniformly high, and has that remarkable reddish appearance already so often described. Our bad fortune still persecuted us; we could not anchor here for the same reasons that had prevented us at Magadosho; we therefore yielded to our fate, and again took refuge in a secure distance from the shore. The houses of Brava are similar to those of Magadosho. The weather continued unaltered, with the thermometer at 80°; N. lat. observed at noon 1° 14′.
3rd, Sunday. At noon we were in lat. 0° 5′ N. The land is low and woody. Proceeded along shore, looking attentively for a river (Note 6) described to discharge itself thereabouts: our search proving fruitless, at sunset cameto anchor three or four miles from the shore in 12 fathoms, soft sand; the land abreast of the ship low, sandy, and rocky. Though the wind had much abated to-day, still, however, it blew fresh with a considerable swell, and the weather continued damp, with dew at night. Thermometer at 78½°. Lat. at noon 0° 5′ N.; long. 43° 11′ E.
4th, Monday. About midnight the Sylph parted from her anchor, got under weigh early in the morning, and at noon passed the River Dos Fuegos, or the Rogues’ River, and Juba[96]Irunjba, a village situated at its mouth, but at too great a distance to make any particular observations. The coast for a little north of this river to Patta is faced by one continued chain of islands, some of which are large and wooded, others very small. These islands are sometimes connected by reefs[97]of rocks, over which a large surf beats, and sandbanks surround them. The reefs run through their whole length, frequently extending a considerable way out to sea; in one place, about 20 miles south of Juba, even to 7 or 8 miles, opposite which is a remarkable high insulated rock in-shore, appearing like a square tower; here also the reef stretches a long way out—perhaps 5 or 6 miles. Though there are no soundings close to the edge of this part of the bank, the water was remarked to have a very white colour, resembling that often seen at the mouths of large rivers. The land on this part of the Continent is in general moderately high, and almostuniversally covered with wood; the shore shelves to a smooth sandy beach, which is guarded by the islands and reefs noticed. Steady moderate north-easterly winds, with fine weather, but damp, and dews at night. The thermometer at 78½°. Lat. observed at noon 0° 24′ S.
5th, Tuesday. In course of the afternoon passed by a deep inlet where some boats were riding at anchor, and at sunset were abreast of several large woody islands supposed to be those immediately north of Patta; between 6 and 7P.M.came to twelve fathoms, fine sand. That part of the coast of Africa stretching from the equator south beyond our present anchorage, promises in its aspect something very interesting to the enterprising investigator. The numerous richly-clothed islands which line the shore, separated by beautiful and frequently spacious inlets and bounded behind by a delightful continent, rich in all the charms of luxuriant vegetation, present to the eye a prospect extremely enchanting, and would seem to indicate a degree of natural wealth equal to the most favoured regions of the known globe. Nothing could form a more striking contrast with that in view than the barren coast to the eastward of Juba.[98]Fine steady easterly breeze, with pleasant weather. It is worthy of remark, since in the latitudes on this coast near the line, a heavy dew had been observed to begin falling immediately after the sun went down, and continued till some time after its rise next morning; during the day the air felt very dry,[99]thermometer at 79°. Lat. observed at noon 1° 23′ S.; long. per chron. at noon 41° 59′ E.; variation 13° W.
6th, Wednesday. Weighed and worked to windward for the purpose of trying the current and to get clear of the land to observe the latitude at noon; in a few tacks began to gain ground. It was therefore evident that the strong southerly current which runs along the coast during the North-east Monsoon had already began to change its direction, though as yet it is probably only to be felt near the shore. At noon saw a large dow a few miles astern, standing to the southward. She seemed at first extremely cautious of approaching the ships, but seeing English colours, ventured within hail, and being informed who we were, acquired more confidence. We were informed they were from Muscat bound to Mampasse;[100]they said their shyness arose from a suspicion of our being French cruisers. They afterwards obligingly sent on board two pilots to conduct the ship to anchorage near Patta.[101]At sunset came to six fathoms and abreast of some small isles at the south point of the isle of Guien, which forms the north side of the inlet adjoining the Peer Patta (Note 7), on which was observed a considerable town (Note 8), bearing from the ship about N.W. Fired a gun as a signal for a Patta pilot to carry us through the intricate channel to the inner anchorage. Wind still steady from the N.E. with fine weather. The thermometer at 79°. Lat. observed at noon 1° 59′ 6″.
7th, Thursday. A boat with pilots arrived from Patta; got under weigh and proceeded through the passage at 4, 5, and 6 fathoms, and at 11A.M.came to again in a very narrow part of it leading between the N.E. point of the island of Peer Patta and an extensive sandbank, dry at low water, which runs a long way out. All of these islands,namely, Peer Patta, Daw Patta, Mandra, &c., are faced with shoals of rocks and render the navigation very difficult, and should, with other considerations, deter trading vessels from frequenting this port. In the afternoon sent the small boat with our Hindostanee pilot to Patta, to acquaint the Sooltan of our arrival and intention of visiting him next day. Weather as heretofore. The position of this anchorage is in South lat. 2° 4′; long. by chron. 41° 14′ 2″; variation 14° W.
8th, Friday. The boat that went yesterday to Patta returned this morning, having left behind Mallum Ali, the Hindostanee interpreter, a circumstance which (there being reason to believe his stay not voluntary) added to the report of the boat’s crew concerning the deportment of the natives on shore, did not tend to impress us with a favourable idea of their good intentions. We had already learnt, from the pilots and others who had visited us on board, that the place was distracted by civil dissensions; the Sooltanship being claimed by two rival cousins, whose respective adherents, occupying the same town, occasioned by their contentions a continual scene of confusion: and we knew that any correspondence with one party under these circumstances would, by the other, be considered as evincing a disposition of hostility towards them. It therefore became a doubt to which of these savage competitors for royalty we ought to pay our respects; for though we never dreamt of ascertaining the question of right and wrong betweenthem, it was of some importance to discover which party was strongest and best able to protect and assist us in the prosecution of our inquiries. But this was found impracticable; several partisans of both factions were indeed on board, but each endeavoured to make it appear that his own was the right and powerful Sooltan. Had the boat’s crew been able to tell whose hands Mallum Ali had fallen into, it would have settled the matter as to the person, whoever he might be, there must have been a necessity to pay court; but none of them could speak with certainty respecting him. Disappointed in obtaining satisfactory information concerning this point, it was nevertheless determined to persevere in the resolution of visiting Patta. Accordingly about 11A.M.Captain Smee, in company with Lieut. Hardy, myself, and the pilots, carryingwithwithus a present (Note 9) for the Sooltan, left the ship in the large cutter, manned with Europeans. It was judged prudent to take Arabs (though, to prevent misunderstanding, they remained concealed till compelled to produce them in our own defence). We had scarcely got a mile from the ship when we were met by a boat belonging to Sooltan Hammed with presents for Captain Smee; but finding him on his way to Patta he declined going any farther; the chief man and one of the Sepoys came into the cutter, and their boat returned with us to town. This conduct appearing very suspicious, determined us to act cautiously and avoid particularly giving any pretence for violence. After two hours’ sail we arrived off Patta: it was then low water, and the cutter could not approach nearer to the shore than half a mile; we were therefore obliged to go separately into small canoes which the negroes pushed through the mud to the beach. On landing nobody appeared to receive orconduct us to the Sooltan—another suspicious circumstance that did not give us much encouragement. But, had such been our desire, we had already gone too far to return, for the cutter with all the Europeans and Arabs were at some distance, and we had no means of rejoining them. Those who landed were—Captain Smee, Lieut. Hardy, and myself, the Syrang,[103]captain’s servants, with the pilots and persons from the Sooltan’s boat. Under the direction of these last we walked from the landing-place, surrounded by a crowd of armed savages, to a large unshapely heap of mud called the Palace of Sooltan Hammed, where we met with our interpreter, Mallum Ali. Having entered it through a wicket in a strong door or gate, we were conducted across a square court to a kind of open porch used, it seems, as a place of public audience; in it were placed several low beds or couches with broken rattan bottoms, on one of which we were desired to sit down. They were excessively dirty and looked as if they had been stolen from some native brother in India. Immediately to the left of the one in which we were seated, stood the Sooltan’s seat or throne, being nothing more than a new wooden arm-chair with a high back, and some rude carving on it. On the ground before, a round piece of wood or stone with a hole in the middle supplied the place of a footstool; and around stood a crowd of naked men and boys, for all ranks and descriptions have, it seems, here free access to the presence of their sovereign. The Sooltan immediately entered, and, holding out his hand to us severally, took ours, and put the back of it to his mouth—a ceremony the natives reversed; they all kissed the back of his hand. He is in person of a middle stature, rather corpulent, andhas an agreeable countenance; I imagined his age to be about 35. He was dressed in a long, dirty, yellowish-coloured gown with a greasy turban on his head, and filthy loose slippers on his feet, and in the left hand carried a sabre, the handle of which was of black wood ornamented with gold and silver. Being seated, a tin goblet of sugar and water, the favourite beverage of the country, was handed to each, which having drunk, the presents, with the letters from government, were delivered by Captain Smee, who complimented the Sooltan in the name of Mr Duncan and the Honourable Company. He returned the compliments, but did not at that time open the letters. A conversation afterwards ensued, in which the objects of the voyage were stated, with a request for all the information in his power respecting them; but he seemed dissatisfied with the explanation of our views, which he probably suspected concealed designs of a dangerous nature, and appeared to stand very much on the reserve. To our interrogations about the unfortunate Mr Park[104]and his associates, he only answered, ‘How can I speak of the man? I never saw him.’ Regarding the rivers on the coast he confessed Rogues River to be of immense extent, that its sources were far beyond his knowledge, commonly believed to be in Europe, or, as he expressed it, ‘in our country;’[105]that a great number of slaves were brought down it to Brova; but as to the towns, state of the country, or people which dwell on its banks, he said he was totally ignorant. At my suggestion it was proposed to introduce the vaccine or inoculationat Patta, with the means for which I was ready provided. The Sooltan asked if that was possible, for, allowing I might be able to do such a thing, how could it be propagated so as to be of advantage. It was replied that a sufficient number of persons might be easily instructed for the purpose; but he seemed to doubt the truth of this assertion, and treated the proposal with contemptuous neglect. Then, rising, he abruptly withdrew. Thinking the audience at an end, we were about to retire, but it was intimated that we must walk into another apartment, whither they conducted us, the way to it leading through the opposite side of the court and up a narrow mud staircase: this room was better furnished, but equally filthy and more gloomy than the former. The Sooltan soon followed us, and it presently appeared, if we did not pay a very high price for liberty to take leave of his Highness, we must consent to remain for a time much exceeding either our pleasure or convenience. Seating himself for a moment and whispering to some of his attendants, he rose, and with them retired into an inner room, where Captain Smee was called, and remained separated from us during the rest of the conference, which lasted till near sunset. About 4P.M.they all came out for a few minutes, and at this moment a lascar arrived from the boat and told us the people had been fired upon, but that on showing their arms they desisted. This outrage (we had a flag of truce flying all the time) was taken no notice of. The Sooltan laid it to the charge of his cousin’s (Note 10) party. His Highness, however, seemed perfectly ashamed of his own treatment of us, which was such as he did not care to make public, for he carried Captain Smee a second time into the private apartment for the purpose,as we afterwards understood, of extorting a promise of money and other articles from him. Our feelings were at this moment very uncomfortable. It was easy to see some mischief was in hand, for the place where we sat, and the passages about it, were filled with armed men; those who before had none, going out and returning with spears, bows and arrows, &c. Near sunset, Captain Smee again came out and, without sitting down, said he was going to the beach; we followed, and though environed by an armed multitude, reached it without molestation. Finding the boat, by the rise of the tide, had got close in, we embarked with great satisfaction. When Captain Smee was first called out, the Sooltan required that he should supply them with 15 muskets, 10 pistols, 11 barrels of gunpowder, several parcels of flints, &c. This demand was remonstrated against, on the ground that these articles belonged to the Company his masters, and if he parted with them he could not defend himself against his enemies,—two of whose vessels, they themselves had acknowledged, were at Zanzibar and Quailemane; but again reflecting he was entirely in their power, promised to comply with their requisitions as far as compatible with the safety of the ships under his command. They seemed satisfied; said the French vessels at Zanzibar and Quailemane were only small vessels trading for slaves, and for the time put an end to the conference; but encouraged by success (for they seemed to place great confidence in the promise of an Englishman), a second request for money to satisfy their soldiers was made, to which Captain Smee positively refused to accede. He told them he had no money to spare; asked if the letters he had delivered had been read; if so, that he was astonishedthey should make so unreasonable a demand. To this they returned an equivocating answer; first they had not; then they had read them. Perceiving him anxious to take leave (for they evidently intended to protract the interview till it should be too late for the boat to get off), they insisted on his staying to eat; said he had better stay all night, for there was not water enough for the boat to get to the ship. He said he would go and see, and without giving time for deliberation, walked out and fortunately got to the beach before the rabble without knew anything of the affair. Having got the two pilots into the cutter and a Sepoy belonging to the Sooltan’s boat who was still waiting on the beach, we put off, determining to keep him as a security for the safety of Mallum Ali, who remained behind to preserve a show of friendship with the Sooltan, and at midnight reached the ships, much fatigued, and happy at having escaped so well.
The town of Patta stands on a low square point between two salt-water creeks surrounded with woods, chiefly cocoa-nut trees, and is composed of wretched mud buildings. No fruit except thecocoa-nutcocoa-nutwas met with, and it was found impossible to procure any fresh water. The sheep, which are covered with hair instead of wool, and their goats are excellent (Note 11). The inhabitants belong to the Souallie[106]tribe, a people sprung from a mixture of the Galla[107]negroes with the Arabs, &c. The flat nose andthick lips, so peculiarly distinctive of the African countenance, is generally observed among them, and sufficiently marks their original connection with that race;[108]the woolly covering of the head universally prevails; the colour of their skins varies from a reddish brown or tawny hue, like the Arabs, to nearly a deep black; in their dispositions they are cunning and treacherous to the last degree.[109]
On the 9th, the same boat we met yesterday, and which returned with us to town, arrived at the ships with presents from the Sooltan, consisting of 60 cocoa-nuts, three white bullocks, and three goats in charge of one of his principal men, who came to receive the articles, the promise of which had been extorted during the interview at Patta. To give no cause for quarrel, the Sooltan’s present was accepted, but the boat was sent back with an answer that until Mallum Ali should be sent on board not a single article would be parted with. The pilots perceiving the boats go away without them, became very outrageous, and attempted to leap overboard, but finding themselves too well guarded, they desisted, and began to say (in direct contradiction to what they formerly asserted, and on the strength of which we had allowed ourselves to be brought to the present anchorage) that there was not water enough for the ships to get through the channel of the S.W., as the wind rendered it impossible for us to return the way we came in, and the above passage the only one by which we could keep clear of the shoals whichsurrounded us. We determined to detain the pilots till the ships were out of danger.
Next day, the 10th, the boat returned with Mallum Ali, though the promise given to the Sooltan was compulsory, and did not, strictly speaking, deserve the least regard; yet out of respect to the word and honour of an Englishman, as well as for the sake of any of our countrymen who might hereafter fall into their hands, and on whom they might be tempted to retaliate their disappointment, it was resolved to adhere to our extorted engagements as far as consistent with the safety of the ships. Therefore five muskets, two pistols, two barrels of gunpowder, two bundles of musket-ball cartridges, and 160 flints, being all we could spare, were delivered, with which they departed very well satisfied, and thus terminated this troublesome business.
From the 10th to the 12th we were occupied in getting through the S.W. channel, which proved a very tedious job. The pilots were either too ignorant or too unwilling to be of much service, and it became necessary to keep our boats out sounding in order to discover the passage, and direct the ships how to steer: we found it very narrow, and interrupted in two places by bars, on which at high water we found not more than one quarter less three fathoms. From the anchorage the channel ran W.S.W. 1/2 W., about half a mile, and then turned to the southward. In leading out on the 11th the Sylph grounded, but soon got off again; on the evening of the 12th, having got clear of the sands and rocks, dismissed the pilots, and stood out to sea during the night. Since anchoring at Patta the weather (with the exception of the morning of the 8th, when a few drops of rain fell) wasfair with pleasant easterly winds, and heavy dews at night. The thermometer generally at 82°. The town, as near as we could ascertain (for we had no opportunity of determining it exactly), is in lat. 2° 8′ S., and long. by chron. 41° 13′ E., variation 14° W.
13th, Wednesday. No land in sight[110]during the day, and light easterly winds and calms prevailed with clear weather. Lat. at noon 2° 48′ S.
14th, Thursday. The course N.E. by E. Saw land bearing W.N.W., on which several large fires were burning, and at sunset were abreast of some small rocky islands, which seemed a continuation of the chain to the northward of Patta. Wind favourable. Lat. 2° 48′ S.
15th, Friday. In lat. 2° 41′ S., variation per azimuth 13° 29′ W. Fine weather, with light favourable winds.
16th, Saturday. In course of the afternoon yesterday we passed a reef of rocks, part of which rose considerably above the surface of the water, and had a very remarkable appearance. The reef runs from the N.E. point of Formosa Bay (Note 12), stretching several miles off shore in a south-easterly direction; the situation[111]I supposed to be in South lat. 2° 45′, for having to-day at noon observed in 2° 58′, it was then 15 or 16 miles astern of us. At noon the S.W. point of Formosa Bay bearing S.W. by W., observed two boats under the land; stood in with a view to speak them, and fired two guns which they took no notice of, but crowding all sail, made round the point into the Bay. Crossing the mouth of Formosa Bay at 5P.M., saw another reef with breakers on it. We were at this timeabout 4 miles from shore, in 24 fathoms sand, and the breakers could not, I think, be more than 1½, or at the farthest, two miles from the ship. At 5 h. 20′ hove to in 13 fathoms, when the water suddenly shoaled to 6, 5, and one quarter less 4 fathoms, rocks. On shoaling a mosque, or round tower, was observed on a point or projecting part of the shore, bearing W. 3/4 N., distant 8 or 9 miles. Hauled our wind, and stood out for the night, intending to return next morning to determine as accurately as possible the exact situation of this dangerous shore. To-day there were light favourable winds with fine clear weather, the thermometer at 80°. Lat. at noon 2° 58′ S., long. 40° 8′ E.
17th, Sunday. At noon observed in lat. 3° 8′ S., the mosque seen on shore within the breakers yesterday, bearing due W. (Note 13). Spoke a country boat, which informed us the tower or mosque was called Gumanne;[112]also that a river opened at a short distance ahead, called Quiliffa.[113]At 4P.M.were abreast of what we imagine to be this river, which has a small island at its mouth. Though the distance on the shore did not exceed two miles, no ground could be found with a line of 70 fathoms, and the water did not appear to be in any way discoloured. Thermometer 79°; lat. 3° 18′ S.; long. by chron. 40° 28′ E., by lunar 40° 30′ E.
18th, Monday. The coast rose into gently elevated hills, which were clothed with wood, and presented a fine fertile appearance. At noon the opening of the Quiliffa(Note 14), bearing N. 1/4 E. 8 or 9 miles; the lat. observed was 3° 32′ S. About 2P.M.saw another river, said to be called the Channay,[114]distant from the ship 1½ miles right abreast. No soundings with 38 fathoms here. It had a large shoal with breakers close to the mouth, and its probable position may be in lat. 3° 32′ S., and long. 39° 51′ E.; variation by azimuth 13° 26′ W. To-day we had light easterly winds, with clear warm weather, the thermometer at 80½°. Here a pretty strong southerly current was experienced. Long. 39° 45′.
19th, Tuesday. The town of Mombaze, or as the natives pronounce it Mampass, was abreast of us, distant two miles. The fort stands at a short distance from the shore on a steep woody ridge, said to be an island, and has three flagstaffs on it. A little to the N.E. three remarkable hills or hummocks[115]serve as good marks for finding the place. Its situation my be in S. lat. 4° 2′, and in long. 39° 41′ 30″ E. At noon spoke a boat with a cargo of slaves, two days from Zanzibar, and towards evening saw the Island of Pemba a-head; worked to windward during night to weather it. Pleasant easterly breezes, with fine clear weather. The thermometer at 80°. Lat. at noon 4° 7′ S., long. by chron. 39° 51′ E.
20th, Wednesday. No land in sight during the early part of the day, which was sultry and calm, but in course of the afternoon, a breeze springing up about sunset, saw the Island of Pemba bearing S. 1/2 W. four or five leagues. In the evening stood out to the eastward, intendingto return next day and observe the position of this island. The thermometer at 81°. Lat. observed at noon 4° 34′ S.
21st, Thursday. At noon observed in 5° 7′ S. the east point of Pemba, bearing west about two miles. Pemba is a low even island of considerable extent, being perhaps 16 or 17 leagues[116]in length. It is entirely covered with wood, and appears well-peopled. The shore, generally low and steep to the water’s edge, shelves in some small spots to a sandy beach remarkably white, that at a distance shows like walls or pieces of buildings. Throughout its whole extent are numerous creeks or inlets, and towards the S. W. end is a deep bay with several small islands at its mouth, hitherto as far as I know undescribed. Fresh north-easterly winds and cloudy weather; the thermometer at 82½°. Stood to windward during the night.
22nd, Friday. At noon saw the Island of Zanzibar a-head; about sunset anchored in 25 fathoms, green mud, abreast of Timbat, the largest of the small woody islands at the north-west end of Zanzibar. A little after the Sylph came close to us: the thermometer at 82°; lat. observed at noon 5° 37′ S.
23rd, Saturday, 7A.M.Weighed and stood along the western side of the island (the Sylph leading), in from 5 to 15 fathoms, and at 11 anchored in the harbour in 7 fathoms, mud. The town of Zanzibar, then S.W. by S., distant three-quarters of a mile. Each vessel saluted the fort with three guns, which was not returned. In course of the afternoon sent the boat ashore with the Interpreter to acquaint the Hakim of our arrival. Moderate northerly winds and fair weather.
24th, Sunday. Accompanied the commanders on a visitto the Governor, or Hakim, as he is titled. He received us with great civility, and made many professions of friendship and assistance, which, however, in the sequel we did not find him disposed to act up to. We were saluted on landing and coming off by the fort and a ketch in the harbour. Thermometer 82½. Fair weather. (Note 15.)
Proceedings at Zanzibar, from the 25th February to the 9th April, 1811, with some account of the island.
Zanzibar, situated between the 6th and 7th of S. lat. and 39th and 40th of E. long., is an island of considerable extent, being nearly 50 miles in length, and 20 in breadth; its distance from the east coast of the African Continent, along which it stretches in a N.-easterly and S.-westerly direction, may be about 15 or 16 leagues;[117]between the Continent and it, however, there is no passage for large vessels, except through the harbour, as a reef runs obliquely across from the African shore to the small islands which lie close to the western side of Zanzibar.[118]These islets, which stand considerably nearer to the south than the north (Note 16) extreme of the island,[119]are all, except one, covered with wood, and help to form the harbour. They run in a semi-circle, the concave side of which is towards Zanzibar, and are connected together by reefs of rocks, which, in blowy weather, break the swell, and render the port remarkably smooth and safe. The entrances into it are from the north and south; both lead between the small islet at the extremity of the semi-circle and the westernshore of Zanzibar. The northern entrance, which leads within the small woody isle, called Frenchman’s Island,[120]is very narrow and crooked, in consequence of sand-banks, which run out from opposite shores, crossing each other. On the shallowest part (which will be known by bringing three northern woody isles in one) the depth is not more than three or four fathoms. The southern passes between a sandy isle (Note 17), and the point on which the town of Zanzibar stands is broader than the other, and has 7 or 8 fathoms water in it. The depth within the harbour is from 7 to 9 fathoms, with a tolerably good bottom: the rise of water during spring is nearly three fathoms.[121]Immediately adjoining the north end of the town is an extensive creek or inlet, which runs a little way in, and turns up behind the town. Here vessels of all descriptions are hauled up in security during the virulence of the S.W. Monsoon. With a very little care it might be converted into an excellent dock, and deepened, so as to admit with ease ships of at least five or six hundred tons.
The appearance of the island is extremely delightful. It is in general low, especially at the extremities, where it is thickly covered with a jungle and brushwood; but towards the middle the land rises into hills and gentle eminences, which are cultivated, and clothed with cocoa-nut trees. Besides the periodical rains which fall here from the month of March to September, the island itself is well-watered with a variety of springs, which unite and form a number of delightful streams, that flow during the dry season, and keep up that appearance of fertility and beauty, which it exhibits throughout the whole year.None of these streams are large: that at which the ships water[122]is situated about 1½ mile north of the town, where it flows into the sea, at the north entrance of the harbour. The water when first taken up is good, but from the quantity of putrid vegetable matter in suspension, upon keeping a short time it becomes very offensive both in taste and smell; in a few weeks, however, it regains its original sweetness. Ships ought always to fill at low water, else they will have it brackish. The climate of Zanzibar is similar to that of India, only the Monsoon, or rainy season, sets in sooner. From September to March the season is dry and warm; the rest of the months are rainy and tempestuous. During our stay the thermometer ranged from 80½ to 87½° at noon; and from the date of our arrival to the 5th of March, the weather was dry, cloudy, and warm, with northerly winds. From that, till our departure, it was in general cloudy, with frequent violent squalls of wind, and rain from the S.W., attended with much thunder and lightning.
The town of Zanzibar is situated on the west side of the island on a tongue of land formed by the above-mentioned creek, and faces the small sandy isle which constitutes the southern boundary of the harbour. It is large and populous, and is composed chiefly of cajan huts, all neatly constructed with sloping roofs. There are, however, a good number of stone buildings in it belonging to the Arabs and merchants; and in the centre, close to the beach, stands a fort, seemingly partly of Arab, partly of Portuguese, construction. It is square with a tower at each corner, and a battery or outwork towards the sea, in which I observed four or five guns of French manufactureremarkable for their length. In the middle of the town we observed a tree[123]of uncommon size: its height was about 8 or 10 feet, and from a rude measurement which we took, its circumference could not, I think, be less than 36 or 40 (Note 18). Zanzibar according to our observations stands in lat. 6° 6′ S., and long. 39° 15′ E.[124](Note 19.) It is the only assemblage of habitations on the island that deserves the name of town or even village; for the principal part of the inhabitants without the town being slaves of landholders, are scattered over their respective owners’ estates. The sovereignty of the island belongs to the Imaum of Muscat,[125]who appoints the Hakim or governor, and to whom the revenue derived from its commerce and land-tenures devolves. This revenue is said to amount to 60,000 crowns annually, though I have reason to believe it to be much more. His whole establishment consists of the Hakim, an assistant or councillor, and three Arab officers, to command the garrison. The present Hakim is a slave of his own whose history is somewhat curious: he is named Yacoud,[126]and was originally from Abyssinia: he belonged to the Imaum’s uncle and predecessor, who, detecting him in some familiarities with one of his young female slaves, caused him to be emasculated. Since his former master’s death he has become a great favourite of the present one, who promoted him to this distant and lucrative government,—perhaps considering that, as he had lost all relish for the only pleasure that can induce an Arab to dissipate his own or his master’s money, hewould likely turn out a faithful and valuable servant; nor has he been disappointed. Yacoud’s ruling passion is the love of power, to attain which he himself lives like a beggar, and tyrannically extorts from the inhabitants large sums, which, with his own savings, he faithfully transmits as the price of his continuance in the government. The people, however, who live under his sway, detest and despise him. The revenue, as already stated, arises from land-tenures and customs; and though there is no regular land-tax levied, yet it is sometimes resorted to to raise a supply, an instance of which happened while we were there. One of the Imaum’s ships arrived from Muscat with a demand for 25,000 crowns to assist him in opposing the Wahabees, though I sincerely believe it was to defray the repairs of the very ship which brought the demand, and which was going to Bengal for that purpose. As this sum was not in the Hakim’s possession, he immediately imposed a kind of land-tax, so much to be raised in each district, the chief man of which was ordered to collect it and be answerable for its payment at a stated time, in default of which he was to be imprisoned. The other source from whence the revenue proceeds is a custom of 5 per cent. allowed by the Imaum to be gathered on all imports. This, however, is often very unjustly collected, and few, I believe, except Arabs, ever pay so little on their goods as the lawful sum. The Imaum maintains no kind of military force. The Hakim’s slaves, amounting to 400 or 500 men, are armed to serve as soldiers under the above three Arab officers. There are no imports or exports, though we were told the French pay voluntarily a premium of 10 dollars each for the slaves they take, to secure the good-will of the governor; they are in consequencegreat favourites, and from this circumstance we may easily account for his subsequent coolness to us, which was not lessened by his hearing of the surrender of the Isle of France while we were there, and on which occasion both vessels fired a royal salute. The principal articles of export are slaves and ivory, also a small quantity of drugs (Note 20). The number of slaves annually sent to Muscat, India, and the Isle of France, &c., are estimated at not less than from 6000 to 10,000. The quantity of ivory is also very great, and is sent principally to Surat. Of imports the following are the chief: Surat and Dungaree cloth from Cutch; iron, sugar, and rice from Bombay, rice from Pemba, dates from the Gulf of Persia; slaves, ivory, and drugs from Magadosho, Brava, Ganu, Mombas, and other towns along the African coast (Note 21). The number of trading vessels, including those from Semap and Cutch, amounted at the time we left the island to upwards of 50. I could not procure accurate information as to the quantity of the above articles annually imported; but from the amount of the custom, the value cannot be under £300,000. We were told that the demand for European goods on the continent was very great; and if the natives had any returns to make besides ivory and slaves,[127]I have little doubt but we might here find an extensive and lucrative vent for numerous articles of our manufacture.