"AROUND THE CIRCLE."

THE journey "Around the Circle" on the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, from Denver to Silverton, Silverton to Ouray, and return to Denver, or via the Denver & Rio Grande to Durango, thence over the Rio Grande Southern R. R. to Ridgway and return to Denver, briefly described in the following pages, comprises more noted and magnificent scenery than any other trip of similar length in the known world. Piercing the heart of the Rocky Mountains, crossing and recrossing the "Great Divide" between the Atlantic and Pacific slopes; penetrating five cañons, each of which is a world's wonder, and no two having the same characteristics; climbing four mountain passes by rail and one by stage; achieving grades of 211 feet to the mile; reaching heights 11,000 feet above the sea; penetrating gorges whose walls soar a half mile in perpendicular cliffs above the track; traversing fertile and picturesque valleys, watered by historic rivers; passing through Indian reservations and in sight of frontier cantonments of National troops; pausing in the midst of mining camps, where gold and silver and coal and copper are being taken from subterranean recesses; in a word, making the traveler familiar with peaks and plains, lakes and rivers, cañons and passes, mountains and mesas; with strange scenes in nature, aboriginal types of men, wonders of science and novel forms of art; surely no other journey of a thousand miles can so instruct, entertain, entrance and thrill the traveler as this trip "Around the Circle."

Every mile of the journey has its especial attraction. A thousand objects of interest present themselves to view in rapid succession. A thousand novel impressions photograph themselves upon the mind, a thousand landscapes of wonderful and bewitching beauty beyond the power of pen or pencil, or brush or camera to depict, can be seen from the windows of the car. Colorado is a land of wonders, a land of surprises, a land of sharp and wonderful contrasts. Take Toltec Gorge as a central point, and with a radius of two hundred miles describe a circle. Within the confines of that magic ring will be found more grand and wonderful scenery accessible by rail than within any similar circle swept anywhere on the surface of the world! Pilgrimages are made across the seas to behold the beauties of some one famed object The Via Mala attracts one, Mount Blanc another, the Colosseum a third, and the tourist, after all his great expenditure of time and money, comes away with one impression.

PALMER LAKE.

It ought to be the fashion for Americans to see something of their own country before they rush across the ocean to gaze at the wonders of the Old World. It is a good omen that many Americans appreciate this fact and are turning their attention to the unsurpassed scenery of their native land. The "Via Mala" is dwarfed into insignificance when compared with the "Royal Gorge." The hundreds of peaks among the Rockies, reaching an altitude of over fourteen thousand feet, should compensate one for the solitary grandeur of "Mount Blanc," while the ruins of the "Cliff Dwellings" tell of a race older than that which built the "Colosseum."

It would be impossible within the pages allotted for this book to give an adequate description of even half the noteworthy things to be seen in a journey "Around the Circle." All that can be attempted is briefly to characterize a few of the most remarkable objects of interest, objects which deserve to rank with the greatest natural attractions of the world, and most of which have already become known as marvels, to behold which would amply repay a journey across the continent.

The trip naturally begins at Denver, the great railroad center of Colorado, and a city of more than ordinary attractiveness.

For a hundred and twenty miles the railroad extending to the south follows the front range of the Rocky Mountains, which is in plain view on the right and to the west. After Denver has been left behind, the tourist can see from the car window the snow-covered pinnacles of Long's, James', Gray's and Pike's Peaks standing in a wilderness of lesser mountains. Soon a remarkable promontory rising from the summit of a conical hill and presenting the appearance of an ancient round tower, attracts the tourist's attention. This is Castle Rock, under whose battlements nestles a picturesque village of the same name. Beyond Castle Rock the country becomes more broken, the ascent being now begun at what is known as the Divide, a range of hills extending eastward into the plains and rising to an elevation of 7,500 feet. Curious formations of sandstone frequently occur, the most notable of which is called Casa Blanca, and can be seen on the right between Greenland station and Palmer Lake. This enormous monolith is a thousand feet in length and two hundred feet high, and on account of its size, its snow-white walls and its castellated appearance, can hardly fail to attract attention. On the summit of the Divide is Palmer Lake, a lovely little sheet of water, so equally poised that its waters flow through outlets northward into the Platte and southward into the Arkansas. Here has been established a pleasant summer resort, and here also is Glen Park, where assemblies are held each summer, modeled on those of the well-known Chautauqua.

CENTRE OF PIKE'S PEAK.

Beyond Palmer Lake, on both sides of the track, may be seen wonderful formations of brilliant red sandstone, taking the form of castles, fortifications and towers. One of the most striking of these has been named Phœbe's Arch, being a great castle-like upthrust of glowing red rock, through which there is a perfect natural archway. The descent of the Divide to Colorado Springs is through an interesting country, the mountains to the west and plains extending to the east. As Colorado Springs are approached, the great gateway to the Garden of the Gods can be seen to the right, and Pike's Peak, rising to an altitude of 14,147 feet, its summit white with snow, attracts instant attention. A side trip can here be taken, at nominal expense, to Manitou Springs, five miles distant, the famous watering place of the west, a pleasure resort possessing wonderful effervescent and medicinal springs, and surrounded by more objects of scenic interest than any resort of a like character in the old or new world, including "Garden of the Gods," "Glen Eyre," "Red Rock Cañon," "Crystal Park," "Ruxton's Glen," "William's Cañon," "Manitou Grand Caverns," "Cave of the Winds," "Ute Pass," "Rainbow Falls," "Bear Creek Cañon," "Cheyenne Mountain," "Pike's Peak," and hundreds of others, to name which space is lacking.

The cog-wheel railroad to the summit of Pike's Peak is now completed and in operation, and is the most novel railway in the world. When it reaches its objective point above the clouds, at a height of 14,147 feet above sea level, it renders almost insignificant by comparison the famous cog-way up Mount Washington, and the inclined railway up the Rhigi in Switzerland.

The route is the most direct possible, and about nine miles in length. The track is the same as that of the Mount Washington line, standard gauge, with an eight-inch cast-steel cog-rail. The cars are set on low trucks to prevent them from becoming top-heavy on curves or in a high wind. This is almost an unnecessary precaution, as it is not expected to make the ascent in less than two hours. On the ascent the cars are pushed by the engine, but on the descent the locomotive is placed in front. The engine achieves the tremendous grades by means of a cog-wheel, which fits into the cog-rail. This mountain road is a great attraction, added to the many which already render Manitou the greatest summer resort of the mid-continental region.

The run from Colorado Springs to Pueblo is down the valley of a pretty little stream, the Fountaine qui Bouille, along whose banks are situated rich farms, or as they are universally termed in the west, "ranches," on which large crops are grown through the medium of irrigation. A hundred miles to the westward may be seen the faint blue outlines of the Greenhorn range of mountains, while to the eastward stretch the plains, the view of which is limited only by the horizon. Pueblo is the great manufacturing city of central Colorado. It has one of the largest steel manufactories in the world, and a number of extensive smelters. Its close proximity to coal and iron mines, and the fact that it has become a railroad center of much importance, makes the future of the city exceedingly bright in promise. With a population of over 20,000, constantly increasing, and with the energy and push of its citizens, it cannot fail of achieving the greatest prosperity.

VETA PASS.

From Pueblo, 120 miles distant from Denver, the journey is continued to the south, still across a level country, and to the left the Spanish peaks soon rise to view. These mountains possess a peculiar attraction, rising, as they do, directly from the plain in symmetrical, conical outlines, and reaching an altitude respectively of 13,620 and 12,720 feet. The Indians, with a touch of instinctive poetry, named these mountains "Wahatoya," or Twin Breasts.

Shortly after sighting the Spanish Peaks, the ascent of Veta Pass is begun The ascent of this famous pass is one of the great engineering achievements of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The line follows the ravine formed by a little stream. La Veta Mountain rising to the right. At the head of this gulch is the wonderful "Mule-Shoe Curve," the sharpest curve of the kind known in railroad engineering. In the center of the bend is a bridge, and the sparkling waters of the mountain stream can be seen flashing and foaming in their rocky bed below. Standing on the rear platform of the Pullman car as the train rounds the curve, the tourist can see the fireman and engineer attending to their duties. From this point the ascent of Dump Mountain begins, rocks and precipitous escarpments of shaley soil to the right and perpendicular cliffs and chasms to the left. The ascent is slowly made, two great Mogul engines urging their iron sinews to the giant task. The view to the eastward is one of great extent and magnificence. The plains stretch onward to the dim horizon line like a gently undulating ocean, from which rise the twin cones of "Wahatoya," strangely fascinating in their symmetrical beauty. At the summit of the pass the railroad reaches an elevation of 9,393 feet above the sea.

Veta Mountain is to the right as the ascent of the pass is made, and rises with smooth sides and splintered pinnacles to a height of 11,176 feet above the sea level. The stupendous proportions of this mountain, the illimitable expanse of planes, the symmetrical cones of the Spanish Peaks, present a picture upon which it is a never-ceasing delight for the eye to dwell. The train rolls steadily forward on its winding course, at last reaching the apex, glides into the timber and halts at the handsome stone station over 9,000 feet above the level of the distant sea. The downward journey is past Sierra Blanca and old Fort Garland, and through that pastoral and picturesque valley known, as San Luis Park.

WAGON-WHEEL GAP.

At Placer one can say that the descent of Veta Pass has been accomplished, though it is still all down grade to Alamosa. This little town is situated on the eastern border of the San Luis Valley and at the western extremity of La Veta Pass.

From Alamosa station a magnificent view of Blanca is obtained, and this majestic mountain, with its triple peaks capped with snow, and two-thirds of its height above timber line, presents a noble and impressive spectacle. To the north and south, silhouetted against a sky of perfect azure, are the serrated pinnacles of the Sangre de Christo range. It would be difficult to find, even in this land of peaks, a more impressive mountain view than that obtained during the traversing of the San Luis Valley, on the eastern rim of which Garland Station, the site of old Fort Garland, rests. Here is a park 7,500 feet above sea level, surrounded on all sides by ranges of rugged mountains whose summits are whitened with perpetual snow. San Luis Park has an area larger than Connecticut, watered plentifully by mountain streams and traversed by the historic and beautiful Rio Grande del Norte. The soil of this valley is fertile, and through the medium of irrigation the park is rapidly becoming a great agricultural region.

From Pueblo the line diverges and the tourist may go via Veta Pass as described above, or to Salida, and thence through the Poncha Pass to Villa Grove and down through the beautiful San Luis Valley to Alamosa, noted for its fine farms and phenomenal yield of agricultural products. From the point named above there is a tangent of fifty-two miles and the San Luis Valley portion is a straight line through one of the most fruitful and beautiful sections of the State.

From Alamosa a delightful side trip can be taken to the Hot Springs at Wagon Wheel Gap, and to the new and already famous mining camp, Creede, for which a reduced rate will be given. A word about this wonderful health and pleasure resort will not be out of place here. As the Gap is approached the valley narrows until the river is hemmed in between massive walls of solid rock which rise to such a height on either side as to throw the passage into twilight shadow. The river rushes roaring down over gleaming gravel or precipitous ledges. Progressing, the scene becomes wilder and more romantic, until at last the waters of the Rio Grande pour through a cleft in the rocks just wide enough to allow the construction of a road along the river's edge. On the right, as one enters, tower cliffs to a tremendous height, suggestive in their appearance of the Palisades of the Hudson. On the left rises the round shoulder of a massive mountain. The vast wall is unbroken for more than half a mile, its crest presenting an almost unserrated sky line. Once through the Gap, the traveler, looking toward the south, sees a valley encroached upon and surrounded by hills

"Bathed in the tenderest purple of distance,Tinted and shadowed by pencils of air."

"Bathed in the tenderest purple of distance,

Tinted and shadowed by pencils of air."

SOUTH WILLOW CAÑON, CREEDE, COLO.

Here is an old stage station, a primitive and picturesque structure of hewn logs, made cool and inviting by wide-roofed verandahs. Not a hundred feet away rolls the Rio Grande river, swarming with trout. A drive of a mile along a winding road, each turn in which reveals new scenic beauties, brings the tourist to the famous springs. The medicinal qualities of the waters, both of the cold and hot springs, have been thoroughly tested and proved equal, if not superior, to the Hot Springs of Arkansas.

Ten miles beyond Wagon Wheel Gap is Creede; nothing yesterday, a city of seven thousand people to-day. Here is Colorado's newest and richest mining camp, bustling with all the activity of an older eastern city. Situated in the heart of a cañon and extending through it and widening out on to the less precipitous hills below, composed of buildings of all kinds, from the temporary "shack" of the prospector to the more pretentious brick store. The mountain side dotted with innumerable prospect holes, with an occasional large building of unpainted pine, rising from which is a volume of steam and smoke giving ocular evidence of the presence of a mine of more than ordinary interest and value. To the tourist desiring to combine business with pleasure, here is the opportunity to buy what at present seems only "a hole in the ground," but which may some day develop into a mint within Itself.

Leaving Alamosa and continuing the circle tour, after crossing San Luis Park, and just before reaching Toltec Tunnel, a sharp curve takes the train into a nook among the hills. To the left are great monumental and fantastic forms of rock, while to the right are cliffs rising to a height of five or six hundred feet above the track. From the quaint and curious formations which rise to the left as this bend is rounded, it has been named Phantom Curve. In half an hour Toltec Tunnel is reached, the great peculiarity of which is that it pierces the top of a mountain instead of its base. For six hundred feet it has been blasted through the living rock, and such is its solidity that no masonry is needed to support the superincumbent rock masses above. When the train emerges from the tunnel it rolls out upon a bridge of trestle-work set like a balcony against the wall of stone. Beneath, to the left, is Toltec Gorge. The traveler looks down fifteen hundred feet and, glancing upward, sees the opposite wall of the gorge rising a thousand feet above him. The scene is one of the most thrilling and unique in the whole journey "Around the Circle." Below, at the bottom of the gorge, swirls and dashes a little stream, whose waters are churned into snow-white foam, and the noise of whose progress comes faintly to the ear, borne upward from those tremendous depths.

RIO LAS ANIMAS CAÑON.

An object of interest to all visitors to Toltec Gorge is the Garfield Memorial, a beautiful monument of granite, raised by the National Association of General Passenger Agents, who held service at this spot on the 26th day of September, 1881, at the time President Garfield was being buried at Cleveland, Ohio.

At Cumbres, the summit of the Cumbres range of mountains, is reached an elevation of 10,115 feet, the journey of the descent is a trip fraught with great variety of scenery and abounding in interest. Here may be seen mountain meadows lush with vegetation, the surrounding hills being heavily timbered and abounding in game.

At Ignacio the Indian reservation is entered, and the rude tepees of the Southern Utes can be seen pitched along the banks of the Rio de las Florida. Occasionally a glimpse can be caught of a stolid brave, tricked out in all his savage finery, gazing fixedly at the train as it speeds by. Frequently there is quite a little group of these aborigines at the station, and they are always ready to exchange bows and arrows, trophies of the chase, or specimens of their rude handiwork in return for very hard cash.

From Durango the tourist has the choice of two routes to complete the "Circle" tour; either via the Rio Grande Southern Railroad, through the Mancos Valley, the Lost Cañon, the Valley of the Dolores and the Dolores Cañon to Rico, over the Lizard Head Pass by Trout Lake and Telluride, down the San Miguel and Leopard Creek to Ridgway; or via the Denver & Rio Grande, through the Animas Cañon to Silverton, over the Rainbow Route (Silverton Railroad) to Ironton, and thence over the famous Ironton and Ouray Stage Road to Ouray.

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