"There are ten species of drugs for dyeing yellow, but we find from experience that of these ten there are only five fit to be used for the good dye—viz. Weld, savory, green wood, yellow wood and fenugrec"."Weld or wold yields the truest yellow, and is generally preferred to all the others. Savory and green wood, being naturally greenish, are the best for the preparation of wool to be dyed green: the two others yield different shades yellow."—Hellot.
WELD
Weld,Reseda luteola, an annual plant growing in waste sandy places. The whole plant is used for dyeing except the root. It is the best and fastest of the yellow natural dyes.
Hellot's directions for dyeing with weld are the following:—"Allow 5 or 6 lbs. of weld to every pound of stuff: some enclose the weld in a clean woollen bag, to prevent it from mixing in the stuff; and to keep the bag down in the copper, they put on it a cross of heavy wood. Others hold it in the liquor till it has communicated all its colour, and till it falls to the bottom: the stuff is then suspended in a net, which falls into the liquor, but others, when it has boiled, take out the weld with a rake and throw it away."
Hellot's directions for dyeing with weld are the following:—"Allow 5 or 6 lbs. of weld to every pound of stuff: some enclose the weld in a clean woollen bag, to prevent it from mixing in the stuff; and to keep the bag down in the copper, they put on it a cross of heavy wood. Others hold it in the liquor till it has communicated all its colour, and till it falls to the bottom: the stuff is then suspended in a net, which falls into the liquor, but others, when it has boiled, take out the weld with a rake and throw it away."
The plant is gathered in June and July, it is then carefully dried in the shade and tied up into bundles. When needed for dyeing it is broken up into pieces or chopped finely, the roots being discarded and a decoction is made by boiling it up in water for about¾ hour. It gives a bright yellow with alum and tartar as mordant. With chrome it yields an old gold shade; with tin it produces more orange coloured yellows; with copper and iron, olive shades. The quantity of weld used must be determined by the depth of colour required. The dye bath is prepared just before dyeing, the chopped weld being put into weighted bags and boiled in soft water for ½ to 1 hour. 2% of Stannous chloride added to the mordant gives brilliancy and fastness to the colour. Bright and fast orange yellows are got by mordanting with 8% Stannous chloride instead of alum. With 6% copper sulphate and 8% chalk, weld gives a good orange yellow. Wool mordanted with 4% of ferrous sulphate and 10% tartar and dyed in a separate bath with weld with 8% chalk, takes a good olive yellow. 8% of alum is often used for mordant for weld. The dye bath should not be above 90°C. It is good to add a little chalk to the dye bath as it makes the colour more intense, while common salt makes the colour richer and deeper.
"Woollen dyers frequently add a little stale urine or lime and potash to the water in which it is boiled. They commonlyemploy 3 or 4 oz. of alum and one of tartar for each pound of the wool. Tartar is supposed to render the yellow colour a little more clear and lively."—Bancroft.
"Woollen dyers frequently add a little stale urine or lime and potash to the water in which it is boiled. They commonlyemploy 3 or 4 oz. of alum and one of tartar for each pound of the wool. Tartar is supposed to render the yellow colour a little more clear and lively."—Bancroft.
Weld is of greater antiquity than most, if not all other natural yellow dyes. It is cultivated for dyeing in France, Germany and Italy. It is important for the silk dyer, as it dyes silk with a fast colour. The silk is mordanted in the usual way with alum, washed and dyed in a separate bath of 20 to 40% weld, with a small quantity of soap added. After dyeing, the colour is brightened by working the silk for 10 minutes in a fresh soap bath with a little weld added to it. Wring out without washing.
Recipes for Dyeing with Weld.
1).Yellow for Silk.
Scour the silk in the proportion of 20 lbs. soap to 100 lbs. of silk. Afterwards alum and wash. A bath is made of 2 parts weld for 1 of silk, and after ¼ hour's boiling, it is filtered through a cloth into another bath. When this bath is cooled a little, the silk is immersed and turned about till dyed. The weld is in the meantime boiled up again with a little pearlash, and after being strained, it is added to the first bath (part of the first bath having been thrown away) until the desired colour is got. The bath must not be too hot. If more golden yellows are wanted, add some annotto to the second bath.
2).Yellow for Cotton.
Scour the cotton in a lixivium of wood ashes, wash and dry. It is alumed with ¼ of its weight of alum. After 24 hours it is taken out of the bath and dried without washing. A weld bath is prepared with 1¼ parts weld to 1 of cotton, and the cotton dipped in till the shade is got. It is then worked in a bath of sulphate of copper (¼ copper to 1 of cotton) for 1½ hours. It is next thrown, without washing, into a boiling solution of white soap (¼ soap to 1 cotton). It is boiled for 1 hour, then washed and dried.
3).Deep Yellow for Cotton or Linen.
2½ parts of weld for 1 of cotton, with a little copper sulphate added to the bath. The cotton is well worked in this till the cotton has the desired colour. It is then taken out and a little soda ley is poured in.It is returned and worked in this for ¼ hour, then washed and dried.
4).Old Gold for Wool.
Mordant with 2% chrome and dye with 60% of weld in a separate bath. 3% of chalk adds to the intensity of colour.
5).Yellow for Wool.
Boil wool with 4% of alum for 1 to 2 hours, and dye in a separate bath of 50 to 100% weld for 20 minutes to an hour at 90°C.
6).Yellow for Wool.
Mordant with alum and tartar, and dye with 5 or 6 lbs. of weld for every lb. of wool. Common salt deepens the colour. If alum is added to the dye bath, the colour becomes paler and more lively. Sulphate of iron inclines it to brown.
7).Weld Yellow for Silk.
Work the silk (1 lb.) for an hour in a solution of alum, 1 lb. to the gallon, wring out and wash in warm water. Boil 2 lbs. weld for ½ hour; strain and work the silk in this for ½ hour. Add 1 pint alum solution to the weld bath and return the silk; work ten minutes, wring out and dry.
OLD FUSTIC.
Fustic is the wood ofMorus tinctoria, a tree of Central America. It is used principally for wool. It does not produce a fast dye for cotton. With Bichromate of Potash as mordant, Old Fustic gives old gold colour. With alum it gives yellow, inclining to lemon yellow. The brightest yellows are got from it by mordanting with Tin. With copper sulphate it yields olive colours. (4 to 5% copper sulphate and 3 to 4% tartar). With ferrous sulphate, darker olives are obtained (8% ferrous sulphate). For silk it does not produce as bright yellows as weld, but can be used for various shades of green and olive. Prolonged dyeing should always be avoided, as the yellows are apt to become brownish and dull. The chips should be tied up in a bag and boiled for ½ hour before using. It is still better to soak the wood over-night, or boil up in a small vessel and strain into the dye bath. The proportion of Fustic to be used for a good yellow is 5 to 6 parts to 16 parts of wool.
Recipes for dyeing with Old Fustic.
1).Old Gold for Wool.Boil the wool with 3 to 4% Chrome for 1 to 1½ hours. Wash, anddye in a separate bath for 1 to 1½ hours at 100°C. with 20 to 80% of Old Fustic.
2).Light Yellow for Silk.Work the silk for ¼ to ½ hour at 50° to 60°C. in a bath containing 16% alum and a decoction of 8 to 16% of old Fustic. For dark yellow the silk is mordanted with alum, washed and dyed for about an hour at 50°C., with 50 to 100% of Fustic. The colour can be made faster and brighter by working the silk in a cold solution of nitro-muriate of Tin for an hour.
3).Bright Yellow for Wool.Mordant wool with 8% of stannous chloride for 1 to 1½ hours, and 8% of tartar. Wash, and dye with 20 to 40% of Fustic at 80° to 100°C. for 30 to 40 minutes.
4).Old Gold for Wool.Mordant 6¼ lbs. (100 oz.) wool with 3 oz. chrome, for ¾ hour and wash. Dye with 24 oz. Fustic & 4 oz. madder for 45 minutes.
5).Yellow for Wool.Mordant 6¼ lbs. wool with 3 oz. chrome, for ¾ hour and wash. Dye with 6 oz. Fustic, 2 drachms logwood. Boil ¾ hour.
6).Bright Yellow for Wool.(Single bath method). Fill the dye bath ½ full of water, add 2%oxalic acid, 8% stannous chloride, 4% tartar and 40 per cent. of Fustic. Boil up for 5 or 10 minutes, then fill the bath with cold water. Put in the wool & heat up the bath to boiling in the course of ¾ to 1 hour, & boil for ½ hour.
7).Yellow for Wool.(Single bath). 4% stannous chloride, 4% oxalic acid and 50% Fustic.
8).Yellow for Silk.(5 lbs.) Work the silk through an alum solution of 1 lb. to a gallon of water. Wash in warm water. Boil 2 lbs. Fustic for ½ hour in water and in this work the silk for ½ hour. Lift and add 1 pint of the alum solution. Work 10 minutes longer, then wash and dry.
9).Fustic Yellow for Silk.(5 lbs.) Alum the silk. Boil up 3 lbs. Fustic and work silk in it while hot for ½ hour. Lift, add 2 oz. red spirits. Work for 15 minutes. Wash out in cold water. Work 10 minutes in a soap solution. Wring out and dry.
10).Buff Colour on Wool.(45 lbs.) Boil 4½ lbs. Fustic and 1½ lbs. madder. Add 7 lbs. alum and boil up together. Allow to cool a little, enter wool and boil for ½ hour.
11).Yellow for Wool.Mordant with alum and tartar. Solution of tin increases the colour; salt makes it deeper. 5 or 6 oz. Fustic for every pound of wool.
TURMERIC
Turmeric is a powder obtained from the ground up tubers ofCurcuma tinctoria, a plant found in India and other Eastern countries. It gives a brilliant orange yellow, but it has little permanence. It is one of the substantive colours and does not need any mordant. Cotton has a strong attraction for it, and is simply dyed by working in a solution of Turmeric at 60°C. for about ½ hour. With silk and wool it gives a brighter colour if mordanted with alum or tin. Boiling should be avoided. It is used sometimes for deepening the colour of Fustic or Weld, but its use is not recommended as although it gives very beautiful colours, it is a fugitive dye. As Berthollet says "The shade arising from the Turmeric is not long of disappearing in the air."
QUERCITRON.
Quercitron is the inner bark of theQuercus nigraorQ. tinctoria, a species of oak growing in the UnitedStates and Central America. It was first introduced into England by Bancroft in 1775 as a cheap substitute for weld. He says, "The wool should be boiled for the space of 1 or 1¼ hours with one sixth or one eighth of its weight of alum; then without being rinsed, it should be put into a dyeing vessel with clean water and also as many pounds of powdered bark (tied up in a bag) as there were used of alum to prepare the wool, which is to be then turned in the boiling liquor until the colour appears to have taken sufficiently: and then about 1 lb. clean powdered chalk for every 100 lbs. of wool may be mixed with the dyeing liquor and the operation continued 8 or 10 minutes longer, when the yellow will have become both lighter and brighter by this addition of chalk."
Quercitron for Silk.Bancroft.
1 to 2 lbs. of bark to every 12 lbs. silk according to shade required. The bark, tied up in a bag, should be put into the dyeing vessel whilst the water is cold, as soon as it gets warm the silk, previously alumed, should also be put in and dyed as usual. A little chalk should be added towards the end of the operation.A little murio sulphate of tin is used where more lively shades of yellow are wanted.
Boil at the rate of 4 lbs. bark to every 3 lbs. of alum & 2 lbs. murio sulphate of tin with a suitable quantity of water, for 10 to 15 minutes. Reduce the heat so that the hand can bear it, put in the silk and dye till it has acquired the shade. By adding suitable proportions of sulphate of indigo to this yellow liquor and keeping it well stirred, various and beautiful shades of Saxon green may be dyed.
By dissolving different proportions of copperas or copperas and alum in the warm decoction of bark, silk may in the same way be dyed of all the different shades of olive and drab colours.
For Cotton and Linen.Soak the yarn in a liquor made by dissolving ¼ of its weight of alum in the necessary water, to which it will be highly advantageous to add at the rate of 1 lb. potash or 10 oz. chalk for every 6 or 7 lbs. alum. The yarn is taken out and dried well: being afterwards rinsed, it is to be dyed in cold liquor made by boiling 1¼ lbs. of the plant for each lb. of yarn, which, after having received a sufficient body of colour, is to be taken out of the dyeing liquor and soaked for an hour and more in asolution of sulphate of copper (blue vitriol) containing at the rate of 3 or 4 oz. for every pound of yarn: it is then removed without being washed, put into a boiling solution of hard soap, containing 3 or 4 oz. soap for each pound of yarn. Stir well and boil for about ¾ hour or more. Then wash and dry.
And again, take a sufficient quantity of acetate of alumina. This is made by dissolving 3 lbs. alum in a gallon of hot water, then adding 1 lb. sugar of lead, stirring well for 2 or 3 days, afterwards adding about 2 oz. potash and 2 oz. powdered chalk, (carbonate of lime), mix with warm water and soak linen or cotton well in this for 2 hours, keeping warm; squeeze out, dry; soak again in mordant, squeeze; dry; soak in lime water, dry; this mordanting and liming can be repeated if a fast yellow is required: it should then be well washed. 12 to 18 lbs. of Quercitron bark, for every 100 lbs. cotton or linen, is tied up in a bag and put in cold water, and slightly heated. The cotton is put in, stirring for an hour to an hour and a half while the water gets warm: then the liquor is heated to boiling point and the cotton boiled a few minutes only. Slow raising to boiling point gives the best colour. Instead of using acetate of alumina,the cotton can be impregnated with some astringent such as galls or myrobalans (1 lb. in 2 or 3 gallons of water with a little soda). Macerate the cotton an hour or two in this and dry, then a solution of alum (8 lbs. alum, 1 lb. chalk, in 6 gallons of water) soak cotton 2 hours, and dry, then soak in lime water and dry. Second time in alum and dry. Then wash and dye slowly in the Quercitron. This is a lasting yellow for cotton or linen.
OTHER YELLOW DYES.
"Root of the dock, bark of the Ash tree, leaves of the almond, peach and pear trees, all give good yellow dyes, more or less fine according to the time they are boiled and in proportion to the Tartar and alum used. A proper quantity of alum brings these yellows to the beautiful yellows of the weld. If the Tartar is in greater quantity, these yellows will border on the orange, if too much boiled they take brown shades." From a dyeing book, 1778.
"Root of the dock, bark of the Ash tree, leaves of the almond, peach and pear trees, all give good yellow dyes, more or less fine according to the time they are boiled and in proportion to the Tartar and alum used. A proper quantity of alum brings these yellows to the beautiful yellows of the weld. If the Tartar is in greater quantity, these yellows will border on the orange, if too much boiled they take brown shades." From a dyeing book, 1778.
BARBERRY.The roots and bark ofBerberis Vulgaris, used principally for silk dyeing, without a mordant. The silk is worked at 50° to 60°C. in a solution of the dye wood slightly acidified with sulphuric, acetic or tartaric acid. For dark shades, mordant with stannous chloride.
DYERS BROOM.Genista tinctoria.The plant grows on waste ground. It should be picked in June or July & dried. It can be used with an alum and tartar mordant and gives a good bright yellow. It is called greening weed and used to be much used for greening blue wool.
PRIVET LEAVES,Ligustrum vulgare, dye a good fast yellow with alum and tartar.
HEATHER.Most of the heathers make a yellow dye, but the one chiefly used is the Ling,Calluna vulgaris. The tips are gathered just before flowering. They are boiled in water for about half an hour. The wool, previously mordanted with alum, is put into the dye bath with the liquor, which has been strained. It is then covered up closely and left till the morning. Or the wool can be boiled in the heather liquor till the desired colour is obtained.
Recipes:—1).Yellow for Wool.For 6¼ lbs. mordant with 5 oz. alum for 1 hour and wash. Boil up 8 oz. heather twigs, leaves and flowers. Enter the wool and boil for 1 hour. Wash in cold water & dry.
2).Golden Yellow for Wool.For 6¼ lbs. mordant with 3 oz. bichromate of potash for ¾ hour.Wash in cold water. Dye with 50 oz. heather and boil for 45 minutes.
CATECHU.
Catechu, (Cutch) is an old Indian dye for cotton. It can be used for wool, and gives a fine rich brown. It is obtained from the wood of various species of Areca, Acacia, and Mimosa trees. Bombay Catechu is considered the best for dyeing purposes.
Catechu is soluble in boiling water. It is largely used by the cotton dyer for brown, olive, drab, grey, and black. The ordinary method of dyeing cutch brown on cotton is to steep the cotton in a hot solutionof catechu, containing a small addition of copper sulphate, and leave it in the solution for several hours. To 7 or 8 gallons of water put 1 lb. catechu and boil till all is dissolved, then add 1 to 2 ozs. of sulphate of copper and stir. It is then put into a boiling chrome bath (3%) for ½ hour. For deep shades the dyeing and chroming operations are repeated. With alum mordanted cotton, the colour is a yellowish brown, with tin it becomes still yellower. With iron it is brownish or greenish grey. When catechu only is used, a darker shade of brown is got by adding to the catechu 6% of its weight of copper sulphate. When mordants are used, they may be applied before or after the chrome bath, the cotton being worked in their cold solution.
1).Catechu Brown for Cotton.(10 lbs.) Work the cotton at a boiling heat for 2 hours, or steep for several hours in a cool liquid, in 2 lbs. catechu. (To each 7 or 8 gallons of water put 1 lb. of catechu, and boil till all is dissolved, then add 2 oz. sulphate of copper and stir). Wring out and then work for ½ hour in a hot solution of chrome, 6 oz. Wash in hot water. If soap is added the colour isimproved. Any depth of colour can be got by repeating the operations.
2).Brown for Cotton.Soak cotton in warm water. Boil for ½ hour in a solution of catechu, in the proportion of 1 oz. of catechu to 5 oz. of cotton. Put it into a 3% solution of chrome for ½ hour and boil. Then repeat these two operations till the colour is obtained. Then boil in a bath of Fustic.
3).Brown for Cotton.(100 lbs.) Boil 20 lbs. catechu in water: dissolve in the liquid 10 lbs. alum and let it settle: enter the yarn into the hot liquid and after working well take out and enter into a fresh bath of boiling water with 4 lbs. of chrome. Rinse and soften with oil and soap.
4).Cream Colour for Cotton with Catechu.(11 lbs). Boil out ¾ oz. of catechu in water, and dissolve 2 lbs. 3 oz. curd soap in the clear liquid. Enter the cotton at 190° F. and work for an hour.
5).Catechu fast Brown.(50 lbs.) Steep yarn over-night in a decoction of 10 lbs. cutch.Lift & work in a hot solution of chrome, rinse & dry.
6).Light fast Catechu Brown for Cotton.(50 lbs.) Boil 20 lbs. catechu in one boiler and 5 lbs. chrome in another. Enter in the catechu bath first, work 20 minutes, and wring out: then through the chrome 10 minutes, and wring out. Through catechu again, then chrome. Repeat this till dark enough, finishing with catechu.
7).Light Catechu Brown for Cotton.(20 lbs). 3 lbs. of catechu and 3 oz. copper sulphate, boil up, and put into a bath of warm water. Enter cotton and work for ½ hour; wring out. In another bath of hot water dissolve 8 oz. of chrome. Enter cotton when boiling, and work for ½ hour. Then wash.
8).Catechu Black for Cotton.Work the cotton in a hot decoction of catechu, allowing it to steep in the bath till cold, then work it in a cold solution of iron. Wash, and dye in a cold or tepid bath of logwood, and finally pass through a solution of chrome.
9).Catechu Brown for Wool.The wool is boiled for 1 to 1½ hours, with 10 to 20% catechu,then sadden with 2 to 4% of copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate, or chrome, at 80° to 100°C., in a separate bath for ½ hour.
10).Catechu Stone Drab.(10 lbs. cotton). Work the cotton for ¼ hour with 2 pints catechu (1 lb. catechu to 7 or 8 gallons water; boil and add 2 oz. copper sulphate) in hot water, lift and add 2 oz. copperas in solution. Work for ¼ hour and wash. Add 2 oz. logwood to a bath of warm water & work cotton in this for 10 minutes. Lift and add ½ oz. alum. Work 10 minutes; wring out and dry.
ALDER BARK
The bark and twigs of alder are used for dyeing brown and black. For 1 lb. wool use 1 lb. alder bark. Boil the wool with it for 2 hours, when it should be a dull reddish brown. Add ½ oz. copperas for every pound of wool for black.
SUMACH
Sumach is the ground up leaves and twigs of theRhus coriariagrowing in Southern Europe. It dyes wool a yellow and a yellow brown, but it is chiefly used in cotton dyeing.
WALNUT
The green shells of the walnut fruit and the root are used for dyeing brown. The husks are collected when the fruit is ripe, put into a cask and covered with water. In this way they can be kept for a year or more; it is said the longer they are kept the better colour they give. Without a mordant the colour is quite fast, but if the wool is mordanted with alum a brighter and richer colour is got. When used they are boiled in water for ¼ hour, then the wool is entered and boiled till the colour is obtained. Long boiling is not good as it makes the wool harsh. It is much used as a "saddening" agent; that is for darkening other colours. William Morris says:—
"The best and most enduring blacks were done with this simple dye stuff, the goods being first dyed in the indigo or woad vat till they were a very dark blue, and then browned into black by means of the walnut root.""Of all the ingredients used for the brown dye, the walnut rind is the best. Its shades are finer, its colour is lasting, it softens the wool, renders it of a better quality, and easier to work. To make use of this rind, a copper is half filled, and when it begins to grow luke-warm, the rind is added in proportion to the quantities of stuffs to be dyed and the colour intended. The copper is then made to boil, and when it has boiled aquarter-of-an-hour, the stuffs which were before dipped in warm water, are put in. They are to be stirred and turned until they acquire the desired colour."—James Haigh, 1797.
"The best and most enduring blacks were done with this simple dye stuff, the goods being first dyed in the indigo or woad vat till they were a very dark blue, and then browned into black by means of the walnut root."
"Of all the ingredients used for the brown dye, the walnut rind is the best. Its shades are finer, its colour is lasting, it softens the wool, renders it of a better quality, and easier to work. To make use of this rind, a copper is half filled, and when it begins to grow luke-warm, the rind is added in proportion to the quantities of stuffs to be dyed and the colour intended. The copper is then made to boil, and when it has boiled aquarter-of-an-hour, the stuffs which were before dipped in warm water, are put in. They are to be stirred and turned until they acquire the desired colour."—James Haigh, 1797.
PEAT SOOTgives a good shade of brown to wool. Boil the wool for 1 to 2 hours with peat soot. Careful washing is required in several changes of water. It is used sometimes for producing a hazel colour, after the wool has been dyed with weld and madder.
OAK BARK.Mordant with alum and dye in a decoction of oak bark.
ONION SKINS.(Brown.) Mordant the wool with alum and a little cayenne pepper. Boil it up lightly and keep warm for 6 days. Drying 2 or 3 times in between makes the colour more durable. Dry. Boil a quantity of onion skins, and cool; then put in wool and boil lightly for half-an-hour to an hour; then keep warm for a while. Wring out and wash.
MADDER for BROWN.(For 2½ lbs. wool). Mordant with 2 oz. copperas and 2 oz. cream of tartar. Dye with madder.
MADDER, ETC., for FRENCH BROWN.(For 50 lbs. wool.) Mordant with 1½ lbs. chrome. Dye with 6 lbs. Fustic, 1 lb. madder, ½ lb. cudbear, 1 lb. Tartar. If not dark enough add 8 oz. logwood. Boil for ½ hour. Wash and dry.
FOR BLACK THREAD.(From an old Dutch book on Dyeing. 1583). "Take a quantity of broken or bruised galls and boil them in water in a small pot and when they have a little boiled, take out all the galls and put into the same pot so much Copperas as ye had of galles and put therewith a little gumme of Arabic and then give it again another boiling. So let it boil a little, and with the said dye ye shall colour therein your thread, then take it forth and ye shall see it a fair shining black."
TAN SHADE.(for 6¼ lbs. wool). Mordant with 3 oz. Chrome for 45 minutes and wash in cold water. Boil for ½ hour, in a bag, 5 oz. madder, 4 oz. Fustic, ½ oz. logwood. Enter the wool, raise to the boil, and boil for 45 minutes. By altering the proportions of madder & fustic various shades of brown can be got.
A GOOD BLACKfor cotton, (20 lbs.) to stand milling and scouring. Steep all night with 6 lbs. of Sumach, pass through lime liquor and sadden with copperas; repeat in each of the last 2 tubs, adding more lime and copperas to each. Pass through logwood and wash. Soften with a little oil and soda ash.
A GOOD BLACKfor cotton, (20 lbs.) In a tub of cold water add 5 lbs. sumach, give a few turns and let it steep in it all night; then in another tub of cold water add a few pails of lime water, wring out; in another tub add 2 lbs. dissolved copperas and a pailful of old Sumach liquor. Enter, give 6 turns, wring out. In lime tub put two pails more lime liquor. Scald 2 lbs. logwood, 1 lb. Fustic in water; enter cotton, give 10 turns, sadden with a little copperas in the same liquor. Soften with a little oil and soda ash.
BLACK FOR LINEN AND COTTON.The yarn is first of all scoured in the ordinary way, galled, alumed, and then turned through a bath of weld. It is then dyed in a decoction of logwood to which one fourth part of sulphate of copper must beadded for one part of yarn. It is then washed. It is dyed in a bath made with one part of madder for two of yarn. The yarn is then turned through a bath of boiling soap water, washed and dried.
DOESKIN BLACK.(For 100 lbs. wool.) Camwood 8%. Boil for 50 minutes. Then add Chrome 3%, Alum 1%, Argol 1%. Boil for 50 minutes, take out of dye and allow to stand overnight. Dye in 45% logwood, 8% Fustic, 4% Sumac. Boil for 1½ hours, wash and dry. A fast permanent colour.
GREEN BLACK FOR WOOL.Mordant with 2% Chrome and 25% Sulphuric acid. Boil 1½ hours; and leave over-night. Dye with 40% logwood, and 10% Fustic. Boil 1 hour. Wash.
BROWNISH BLACK FOR WOOL.(For 1 lb.) Mordant with 3 per cent. Chrome. Dye with 2 oz. Fustic, 2 oz. logwood, 1 oz. madder, and 1 oz. copperas.
BROWN FOR WOOL.Mordant 2½ hours with alum; dye with pine needles (larch) collected in Autumn when they drop.
"BLACKis obtained from the whole plant ofSpirea Ulmaria, but especially the root. It is gathered then dried in the sun, and a strong decoction made by boiling for some hours, (a large handful to 3 pints of water). After it has boiled slowly for 2 to 3 hours, stale urine is added to supply the loss by evaporation. Then set aside to cool. The cloth to be dyed, is rubbed strongly with bog iron ore, previously roughened and moistened with water. It is then rolled up and boiled in the decoction. This is of a brilliant black. A fine black is said to have been formerly obtained from the roots ofAngelica Sylvestris."—(Edmonstone on the Native Dyes of the Shetland Islands, 1841.) William Morris says;
"[17]Black is best made by dyeing dark blue wool with brown; and walnut is better than iron for the brown part, because the iron-brown is apt to rot the fibre; as you will see in some pieces of old tapestry, or old Persian carpets, where the black is quite perished, or at least in the case of the carpet—gone down to the knots. All intermediate shades of flesh colour can be got by means of weak baths of madder and walnut "saddening;" madder or cochineal mixed with weld gives us orange, and with saddening (walnut) all imaginable shades between yellow and red, including the ambers, maize-colour, etc."
"[17]Black is best made by dyeing dark blue wool with brown; and walnut is better than iron for the brown part, because the iron-brown is apt to rot the fibre; as you will see in some pieces of old tapestry, or old Persian carpets, where the black is quite perished, or at least in the case of the carpet—gone down to the knots. All intermediate shades of flesh colour can be got by means of weak baths of madder and walnut "saddening;" madder or cochineal mixed with weld gives us orange, and with saddening (walnut) all imaginable shades between yellow and red, including the ambers, maize-colour, etc."
From a Dye Book of 1705.—"Black may be compared to Night and Death, not only because all other colours are deepened and buried in the Black Dye, but that as Death puts an end to all Evils of Life, tis necessary that the Black Dye should remedy the faults of other colours, which have been occasioned by the deficiency of the Dyer or the Dye, or the change of Fashion according to the times and caprice of man."
From a Dye Book of 1705.—"Black may be compared to Night and Death, not only because all other colours are deepened and buried in the Black Dye, but that as Death puts an end to all Evils of Life, tis necessary that the Black Dye should remedy the faults of other colours, which have been occasioned by the deficiency of the Dyer or the Dye, or the change of Fashion according to the times and caprice of man."
Green results from the mixing of blue and yellow in varying proportions according to the shade of colour required.Bertholletsays:—
"Many different plants are capable of affording green colours; such as, the field broom grass,Bromus secalinus; the green berries of the berry bearing alder,Rhamnus frangula; wild chervil,Chærophyllum silvestre; purple clover,Trifolium pratense; common reed,Arundo phragmites; but these colours have no permanence."[18]
"Many different plants are capable of affording green colours; such as, the field broom grass,Bromus secalinus; the green berries of the berry bearing alder,Rhamnus frangula; wild chervil,Chærophyllum silvestre; purple clover,Trifolium pratense; common reed,Arundo phragmites; but these colours have no permanence."[18]
Hellotsays:—"It is impossible to obtain more than one colour from a mixture of blue and yellow, which is green; but this colour comprehends an infinite variety of shades, the principal of which are the Yellow green, the Light green, the Gay green, the Grass green, the Laurel green, the Molequin green, the Deep green, the Sea green, the Celadon green, the Parrot green, and, I shall add, the Duck-wing green, and the Celadon green with Blue. All these shades and the intermediate ones are made after the same manner and with the same ease. The stuff or wool dyed blue, light or dark, is boiled with Alum and Tartar, as is usually done to make white stuff yellow, and then with Weld, Savory, or Greening Wood. The Weld and the Savory are the two plants that afford the finest greens."
Hellotsays:—"It is impossible to obtain more than one colour from a mixture of blue and yellow, which is green; but this colour comprehends an infinite variety of shades, the principal of which are the Yellow green, the Light green, the Gay green, the Grass green, the Laurel green, the Molequin green, the Deep green, the Sea green, the Celadon green, the Parrot green, and, I shall add, the Duck-wing green, and the Celadon green with Blue. All these shades and the intermediate ones are made after the same manner and with the same ease. The stuff or wool dyed blue, light or dark, is boiled with Alum and Tartar, as is usually done to make white stuff yellow, and then with Weld, Savory, or Greening Wood. The Weld and the Savory are the two plants that afford the finest greens."
Another old Dye book says:—
"If you would dye your goods green, you must first dye them yellow with Broom or Dyer's Weed, otherwise Yellow Weed; after which put them into the Blue vat."
"If you would dye your goods green, you must first dye them yellow with Broom or Dyer's Weed, otherwise Yellow Weed; after which put them into the Blue vat."
Every dyer has his particular yellow weed with which he greens his blue dyed stuff. But the best greens are undoubtedly got from weld and fustic.
The wool is dyed first in the blue vat; then washed and dried; then after mordanting dyed in the yellow bath. This method is not arbitrary as some dyers consider a better green is got by dyeing it yellow before the blue. But the first method produces the fastest and brightest greens as the aluming after theblue vat clears the wool of the loose particles of indigo and seems to fix the colour.
If a bright yellow green is wanted, then mordant with alum after the indigo bath; if olive green, then mordant with chrome.
The wool can be dyed blue for green in 3 different ways:—1st. in the indigo vat (seepage 68et seq.); 2nd. with Indigo Extract (seepages 65-67); 3rd. with logwood, the wool having been previously mordanted with chrome (seep. 82, No. 7, andp. 85No. 17). For a good bright green, dye the wool a rather light blue, then wash and dry; green it with a good yellow dye, such as weld or fustic, varying the proportion of each according to the shade of green required. Heather tips, dyer's broom, dock roots, poplar leaves, saw wort are also good yellows for dyeing green. If Indigo Extract is used for the blue, fustic is the best yellow for greening, its colour is less affected by the sulphuric acid than other yellows.
Bancroftgives many recipes for dyeing green with quercitron. He says:—
"Wool which has been first properly dyed blue in the common indigo vat may be made to receive any of the various shades of green which are usually given in this way from weld, by boiling the blue wool (after it has been well rinsed) in water,with about one eighth of its weight in alum, and afterwards dyeing it unrinsed with about the same quantity of Quercitron bark and a little chalk which should be added towards the end of the process.In the same way cloth that has previously received the proper shade of Saxon blue, may be dyed to a beautiful Saxon green: it will be proper to add about 3 lbs. chalk with 10 to 12 pounds of alum for the preparation liquor for 100 lbs. weight of wool which is to be turned and boiled as usual for about an hour, and then without changing the liquor, 10 or 12 lbs. of Quercitron bark, powdered and tied up in a bag, may be put into it, and the dyeing continued. When the dyeing has continued about 15 minutes, it will be proper to add another lb. of powdered chalk, stirring it well in, and to repeat this addition once, twice or three times at intervals of 6 or 8 minutes. The chalk does not merely answer the purpose of decomposing the acid left in the wool by the sulphate of indigo, but it helps to raise the colour and to render it more durable."
"Wool which has been first properly dyed blue in the common indigo vat may be made to receive any of the various shades of green which are usually given in this way from weld, by boiling the blue wool (after it has been well rinsed) in water,with about one eighth of its weight in alum, and afterwards dyeing it unrinsed with about the same quantity of Quercitron bark and a little chalk which should be added towards the end of the process.
In the same way cloth that has previously received the proper shade of Saxon blue, may be dyed to a beautiful Saxon green: it will be proper to add about 3 lbs. chalk with 10 to 12 pounds of alum for the preparation liquor for 100 lbs. weight of wool which is to be turned and boiled as usual for about an hour, and then without changing the liquor, 10 or 12 lbs. of Quercitron bark, powdered and tied up in a bag, may be put into it, and the dyeing continued. When the dyeing has continued about 15 minutes, it will be proper to add another lb. of powdered chalk, stirring it well in, and to repeat this addition once, twice or three times at intervals of 6 or 8 minutes. The chalk does not merely answer the purpose of decomposing the acid left in the wool by the sulphate of indigo, but it helps to raise the colour and to render it more durable."
According toBancroft, Quercitron is the yellow above all others for dyeing greens. He says:—
"The most beautiful Saxon greens may be produced very cheaply and expeditiously by combining the lively yellow which results from Quercitron bark, murio sulphate of tin and alum, with the blue afforded by indigo when dissolved in sulphuric acid, as for dyeing the Saxon blue".For a full bodied green he says "6 or 8 lbs. of powdered bark should be put into a dyeing vessel for every hundred lbs. wool witha similar quantity of water. When it begins to boil, 6 lbs. murio-sulphate of tin should be added (with the usual precaution) and a few minutes afterwards 4 lbs. alum: these having boiled 5 or 6 minutes, cold water should be added, and then as much sulphate of Indigo as needed for the shade of green to be dyed, stirring thoroughly. The wool is then put into the liquor and stirred briskly for about ½ hour. It is best to keep the water just at the boiling point."
"The most beautiful Saxon greens may be produced very cheaply and expeditiously by combining the lively yellow which results from Quercitron bark, murio sulphate of tin and alum, with the blue afforded by indigo when dissolved in sulphuric acid, as for dyeing the Saxon blue".
For a full bodied green he says "6 or 8 lbs. of powdered bark should be put into a dyeing vessel for every hundred lbs. wool witha similar quantity of water. When it begins to boil, 6 lbs. murio-sulphate of tin should be added (with the usual precaution) and a few minutes afterwards 4 lbs. alum: these having boiled 5 or 6 minutes, cold water should be added, and then as much sulphate of Indigo as needed for the shade of green to be dyed, stirring thoroughly. The wool is then put into the liquor and stirred briskly for about ½ hour. It is best to keep the water just at the boiling point."
Recipes for Dyeing Green.
1).Bottle Green for Silk with Fustic.(5 lbs.) Dissolve 2 lbs. alum and 1 lb. copperas in water; work the silk in this for ½ hour; wash in warm water. Work for ½ an hour in a decoction of 6 lbs. Fustic. Lift, and add 2 oz. Indigo Extract. Work 20 minutes. Wash and dry.
2).Green for Wool with Fustic.½ lb. of wool is mordanted with ⅛ oz. chrome and ⅛ oz. Cream of Tartar for ½ an hour to 1 hour. Soak overnight in water, 3 oz. Fustic and 2½ oz. logwood, and boil for 2 hours. Strain, and enter wool. Boil for 2 hours.
3).Green for Linen with Larch Bark.Mordant 4 lbs. linen with ½ lb. alum. Boil for 2½ hours; wring out but do not dry. Boil up a quantity of larch bark and boil linen in this for 2½ hours.
4).Fustic Green for Wool.(50 lbs.) Mordant wool with 11 lbs. alum. Soak 50 lbs. Fustic over-night, and boil up. Enter the wool and boil for half-an-hour or more. Add Extract of Indigo in small quantities at a time, till the desired colour is got.
5).Saxon Green for Wool.Mordant the wool with alum and tartar for half-an-hour; it is then taken out and aired, but not washed. The bath is refreshed with cold water, and half the amount of the solution of Indigo which is to be used is well mixed in. The wool is entered and rapidly stirred for 5 or 6 minutes, without boiling. It is taken out and the rest of the Indigo solution is well mixed in. The wool is put in and boiled for ten minutes; then taken out and cooled. The bath is then three-quarters emptied and filled up with a decoction of fustic. When the bath is very hot, the wool is put in until the desired shade of green is got.
6).Green with Quercitron for Wool.Dye the wool blue in the Indigo vat. Wash well. For 100 parts of wool, put 3 parts of chalk and 10 or 12 of alum. Boil the wool in this for 1 hour. Thento the same bath, add 10 or 12 parts of Quercitron, and continue the boiling for ¼ hour. Then add 1 part of chalk, and this addition is repeated at intervals of 6 to 8 minutes till a fine green colour is brought out.
7).Green with Quercitron for Cotton.First, the cotton is dyed a sky blue colour by means of indigo dissolved by potash and orpiment; then it is passed through a strong decoction of sumach, in which it is left until well cooled. It is then dried, passed through the mordant of acetate of alumina, dried again, washed, worked for 2 hours in tepid bath of Quercitron, (26¼ lbs. to 110 lbs. cotton).
8).Green with Indigo Extract & Weld for Wool.Mordant 1 lb. wool with 4 oz. alum and ½ oz. cream of tartar. Dye blue with sufficient quantity of Indigo Extract. Wash and dry. Prepare a dye bath with weld which has been previously chopped up and boiled. Enter wool and boil for half-an-hour or more.
The End
Lichens used for dyeing wool brown.
Continued frompage 62
S. scrobiculata.Aik-raw, Oak rag. Found on trees in Scotland and England.
Gyrophora deusta.Scorched looking gyrophora. Found on rocks in Scandinavia. Linnæus states that it furnishes a paint called "Tousch," much used in Sweden.
G. cylindrica.Cylindrical gyrophora. On rocks in Iceland. Greenish brown. Also G. deusta.
Alectoria jubata.Horse hair lichen, Rock hair. On fir trees in England, pale greenish brown.
Parmelia parietina.Common yellow wall lichen, Wäg-mässa, Wag-laf. England and Sweden on trees, rocks, walls, palings. Used to dye Easter eggs. Used in Sweden for wool dyeing.
Cetraria juniperina.En-mossa. On trees in Scandinavia.
Borrera flavicans.Yellow borrera. On trees in Germany, gamboge yellow.
Lecanora candelaria.Ljus mässa. On trees in Sweden.
Evernia flavicans.Wolf's-bane evernia. On trees in Scandinavia, gamboge yellow.
Lecidea atro-virens.Map lichen. On rocks in Scandinavia.
Lepraria chlorina.Brimstone coloured lepraria. Scandinavia, on rocks.
L. Iolithus.Viol-mässa. Sweden, on stones. Gives to stones the appearance of blood stains.
Prof. G. Henslow. Uses of British Plants.
Dr. Plowright. British Dye Plants. (Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society, Vol. 26. 1901.)
Sowerby. Useful Plants of Great Britain.
Sowerby. English Botany.
Professor G. S. Boulger. The Uses of Plants. 1889.
Alfred Edge. Some British Dye Lichens. (Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists. May 1914).
J. J. Hummel. The Dyeing of Textile Fabrics.
Clement Bolton. A Manual of Wool Dyeing. 1913.
W. Crooks. Dyeing and Tissue Printing. 1882.
Rawson, Gardiner and Laycock. A Dictionary of Dyes, Mordants, 1901.
James Haigh. The Dyer's Assistant. 1778.
James Napier. A Manual of Dyeing Receipts. 1855.
James Napier. A Manual of the Art of Dyeing. 1853.
A Profitable Boke. (On Dyeing). Translated from the Dutch. 1583.
Darwin and Meldola. Woad. ("Nature", Nov. 12, 1896).
Mrs. Anstruther Mackay. Simple Home Dyeing.
English Encyclopædia. Dyeing. 1802.
Gardiner D. Hiscock. 20th Century Book of Recipes, Formulas and Processes. 1907.
F. J. Bird. The Dyer's Hand Book. 1875.
Hurst. Silk Dyeing and Printing. (Technological Hand Book. 1892).
Smith. Practical Dyers' Guide. 1849.
T. Sims. Dyeing and Bleaching. (British Manufacturing Industries. 1877.)
David Smith. The Dyers' Instructor. 1857.
The Dyer and Colour Maker's Companion. 1859.
Thomas Love. The Practical Dyer and Scourer. 1854.
Knecht, Rawson and Lowenthal. A Manual of Dyeing. 1893.
Berthollet. The Art of Dyeing. 1824.
George Jarmain. On Wool Dyeing. 6 Lectures. 1876.
Hellot, Macquer, M. le Pilleur D'Apligny. The Art of Dyeing Wool, Silk and Cotton. (Translated from the French, 1789. New Edition, 1901.)
The Art of Dyeing. (Translated from the German. 1705. Reprint 1913.)
R. P. Milroy. Handbook on Dyeing for Woollen Homespun Workers. (Congested Districts Board for Ireland).
Dr. W. L. Lindsay. On the Dyeing Properties of Lichens. (Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal, 1855).
T. Edmonston. "On the Native Dyes of the Shetland Islands." (Transactions of Botanical Society of Edinburgh, Vol. I. 1841).
Edward Bancroft. The Philosophy of Permanent Colours. 1794.
Francheville. On Ancient and Modern Dyes, 1767. (Royal Academy of Sciences, Berlin).
Parnell's Applied Chemistry.—Article on Dyeing.
William Morris. "Of Dyeing as an Art." (Essays by Members of the Arts and Crafts Exhibition Society, 1903).
William Morris. "The Lesser Arts of Life." (From Architecture, Industry and Wealth. 1902).
Brewster's Edinburgh ncyclopædia. 1830. Dyeing.
Sansome. "Dyeing." 1888.
John M. Thomson. The Practical Dyer's Assistant. 1849.
A.—Adjective dyes,24. Dyes which require a mordant.
Alder bark,43,44,100,126.
Alizarin.The chief colouring principle of madder. It is also the name for an extensive series of chemical colours produced fromanthracene, one of the coal tar hydrocarbons, discvrd., 1868.
Alkaline ley,28.
Almond,120.
Alum,26-29.
Aluminium sulphate,26.
Amber,132.
Aniline,3. Discovered, 1826 (añil, Span. indigo). First prepared from indigo by means of caustic potash. Found in coal in 1834. Manufactured on a large scale after Perkin's discovery of mauve in 1856.
Anatta, (Anotto, Arnotto,Roucou),111. A dye obtained from the pulpsurroundingthe seeds of theBixa orellana; chiefly used in dyeing silk an orange colour, but is of a fugitive nature.
Archil,52,53,54.
Argol,132.The tartar deposited from wines completely fermented, and adhering to the sides of casks as a hard crust. When purified it becomes Cream of Tartar.
Ash,41,120.
Astringents,19,26.
B.—Barberry,41,120.
Barwood,67,106.
Beck.—A large vessel or tub used in dyeing.
Bichromate of Potash,32.
Birch,38,42,43,99,103.
Black,122-123; from logwood,79-85.
Black Dye Plants,44.
Blue,63; from Indigo,66-75; from lichen,61; from logwood,79-85.
Blue black,81.
Blue Dye Plants,39.
Blue stone,33.
Blue vitriol,33-36.
Bois de Campêche,77.
Bois jaune, Fustic, yellow wood.
Brazil woods,106.
British Dye Plants,37-44.
Broom,41,134.
Brown,122-133; from lichens,45-49,51,56,57,60-62,140; from madder,102,106; from weld,112; from woad,76
Brown Dye Plants,43.
Buff,115.
C.—Campeachy Wood,77.
Camwood,106,131.
Carthamus.Safflower, an annual plant cultivated in S. Europe, Egypt and Asia for the red dye from its flowers.
Catechu,33,35,36,122-6.
Caustic Soda.Carbonate of soda, boiled with lime.
Chestnut,35.
Chrome,32,33.
Cinnamon,102.
Claret,51,84.
Coal Tar Colours.Colours obtained by distillation and chemical treatment from coal tar, a product of coal during the making of gas. There are over 2,000 colours in use.
Cochineal,92-7,132.
Copper,33-5.
Copper sulphate,33.
Copperas,29,30,129.
Corcur,51.
Cotton,18; the dyeing of,19; without mordant,21; method in India,19,20; the mordanting of,26.
Cream, from catechu,124.
Cream of Tartar,28-32,34. Seeargol.
Crimson,94-96,106; from lichens,49,60.
Crottle,46,56-60,62.
Cudbear,45,52,54,55,57,58,67,85,129.
D.—Detergent,15. A cleansing agent.
Dip.Generally applied to immersing cloth etc. in the blue vat.
Divi-divi,35,36. The dried pods ofCæsalpina coriaria, growing in the West Indies and S. America. They contain 20 to 35% tannin and a brown colouring matter.
Dock,40,44,50,69,120,135.
Drab,80,118,126.
Dyer's Broom,40,121,135.
Dyer's Spirit,32. Aqua fortis, 10 parts; Sal Ammoniac, 5 parts; Tin, 2 parts; dissolved together.
Dyer's Weed,40,134.
E.—Enter.To enter wool, to put it into the dye or mordant liquor.
Extract of Indigo,65-69.
F.—Felting, to prevent,15.
Fenugrec, Fenugreek,107.Trigonnella fœnugræcum.
Ferrous sulphate,29.
Flavin.A colouring matter extracted from quercitron.
Fleece, various kinds of,13.
Flesh colour,132.
Full, to.To tread or beat cloth for the purpose of cleansing and thickening it.
Fuller's Herb.Saponaria officinalis.A plant used in the process of fulling.
Fuller's Thistleor Teasle.Dipsacus fullonum.Used for fulling cloth.
Fustet.Young fustic. Venetian Sumach.Rhus cotinus.It gives a fine orange colour, which has not much permanence.
Fustic,113-116,130,131,135.
G.—Galls,Gall nuts,26,129. Oak galls produced by the egg of an insect,—the female gall wasp. An excrescence is produced round the egg, & the insect, when developed, pierces a hole & escapes. Those gall nuts which are not pierced contain most tannic acid. The best come from Aleppo and Turkey.
GrammeorGram. About 15½ grains (Troy).
Green,133-9; with fustic,137-8; with weld,139.
Green Dye Plants,42.
Green Vitriol,29.
Green wood,107,108,134.
Greening weed,121.
Grey,67,79; from logwood,80,85.