FOOTNOTES:[2]Which in itself is a monument to the energy and years of faithful service of Miss Janet Carnochan, the valued Historian of the District.[3]Passenger Train Schedules—Local Railways, 1843.Albany.Syracuse.Buffalo.Lv. 6.00 a.m.Arr. 5.15 p.m.Arr. 7.00 a.m.1.30 p.m.2.00 a.m.3.00 p.m.7.30 p.m.8.00 a.m.9.00 p.m.New York Central, 1855.Albany.Syracuse.Buffalo.Lv. 6.30 a.m.Arr. 12.00 noon.Arr. 7.00 p.m.7.30 a.m.1.25 p.m.7.00 p.m.9.00 a.m.3.50 p.m.1.00 a.m.6.00 p.m.12.30 a.m.6.30 a.m.
[2]Which in itself is a monument to the energy and years of faithful service of Miss Janet Carnochan, the valued Historian of the District.
[2]Which in itself is a monument to the energy and years of faithful service of Miss Janet Carnochan, the valued Historian of the District.
[3]Passenger Train Schedules—Local Railways, 1843.Albany.Syracuse.Buffalo.Lv. 6.00 a.m.Arr. 5.15 p.m.Arr. 7.00 a.m.1.30 p.m.2.00 a.m.3.00 p.m.7.30 p.m.8.00 a.m.9.00 p.m.New York Central, 1855.Albany.Syracuse.Buffalo.Lv. 6.30 a.m.Arr. 12.00 noon.Arr. 7.00 p.m.7.30 a.m.1.25 p.m.7.00 p.m.9.00 a.m.3.50 p.m.1.00 a.m.6.00 p.m.12.30 a.m.6.30 a.m.
[3]Passenger Train Schedules—
Local Railways, 1843.Albany.Syracuse.Buffalo.Lv. 6.00 a.m.Arr. 5.15 p.m.Arr. 7.00 a.m.1.30 p.m.2.00 a.m.3.00 p.m.7.30 p.m.8.00 a.m.9.00 p.m.New York Central, 1855.Albany.Syracuse.Buffalo.Lv. 6.30 a.m.Arr. 12.00 noon.Arr. 7.00 p.m.7.30 a.m.1.25 p.m.7.00 p.m.9.00 a.m.3.50 p.m.1.00 a.m.6.00 p.m.12.30 a.m.6.30 a.m.
The original terminus of the Lewiston branch, after it had emerged from the cuttings in the Gorge, was at the upper end of the town, about a mile and a half from the steamboat dock at the shore of the river. During the season of 1886 the New York Central began again to consider the advisability of extending their rails so that the trains might be brought to the steamer's side.
This location had been a relic from the earliest travelling days. The rills of travel from all parts of the West converged at Niagara Falls and then passed on to join the steamboats for Lake Ontario.
Davison's "Travellers' Guide," published at Saratoga Springs in 1834, says:—"A stage leaves Buffalo every morning at 6 o'clock, passing through the village of Black Rock, 3 miles; Tonawanda, 9 miles; Niagara Falls, 11 miles. Fare $1.60. This line, after giving passengers an opportunity of witnessing the Falls for two or three hours, proceeds to Youngstown, or Fort Niagara, passing through Lewiston."
TheBuffalo and Niagara Falls Railroadhad been organized and surveyed, and the first steam trains commenced running in 1836 with a speed of 15 miles per hour, a rate which was considered notable. The track was laid on wooden sills faced with scrap iron, and during the firstwinter was so heaved by the frost, that the steam engines had to be taken off, and horses used to haul the cars, these being only little ones with four wheels each, modeled largely after the stage coaches of the period. In 1839, this railway having been equipped with all-iron rails, had grown to two steam trains per day each way, between Buffalo and Niagara Falls.
A further extension followed when another small railway company, theNiagara Falls and Ontario R.R.was organized in 1852 to build a railway of 14 miles from the Falls to the shores of the Lake atYoungstown, where the steamers would be joined. Benj. Pringle, president; John Porter, vice president; Bradley B. Davis, secretary. The company, at an expense relatively much greater in those days than at the present, excavated the rock cuttings and cut the shelf in the side of the cliff upon which the New York Central Railway now runs through the Gorge, alongside the courses of the Niagara River, and the railway was graded and opened to Lewiston in 1854. Construction was continued further to Youngstown and the track laid in 1855, but only one train was run down to the lower port. It has been said that this was necessary in order to complete the terms of the charter, and appears to have been a final effort. The means of the company were no doubt impaired, so that shortly afterward all further work on this extension was suspended, the track taken up, and thus in 1855 the balance of the line being leased to the New York Central, the Lewiston station had become the terminus of the railroad, where it had ever since remained. As the transfer to the steamers was originally intended to be made at Youngstown, there had been no need, at that time, for the station at Lewiston being constructed any nearer to the River bank.
From the very first the break in connection between train and boat had been found inconvenient, and in the fall of 1855, Mr. Gordon, of the steamerPeerlesswrote to the superintendent of the New York Central Railway, saying:—"You must get the road down alongside the water at once."
This unpleasant transfer of passengers and their baggage in both directions by road and bus had existed all these years. The extension now proposed, would, it was expected, certainly be of advantage both to railway and to steamboat, as facilitating travel. It would mean a considerable expenditure to the New York Central Railway, yet they stated that if we would undertake to put on another boat, they would build the extension. The Michigan Central at Niagara-on-the-Lake, which had now become one of the New York Central lines, had had quite enough trial of their "any boat" arrangement and now desired a permanent service, which the putting on of another boat would supply.
Decisions had, therefore, to be come to by both parties. "The first thing for us to decide," said the Hon. Frank, "is whetherChicorais good enough to build a partner for her. This settled, we will then do our share on the water, for advancing the traffic of the route while the railways do theirs on the land."
The CORONA leaving N. N. Co. Dock at Toronto. page 178The CORONA leaving N. N. Co. Dock at Toronto.page 178
Immediately on the season closing in October, 1886 the steamer was put into Muir's dry dock at Port Dalhousie and every atom of lining in her hull removed so that the plates could be seen from the inside as well as from the outside. The Government hull inspector, and W. White of Montreal, shipbuilder, were brought over to make the inspection. From the beginning and throughout as well as assisting in traffic matters the charge of the hulls and engines had been my particular care. Led by Webster, the chief engineer ofChicora, we entered the hull. Webster was a quiet sort of fellow, sometimes nervous and at times excitable, perhaps a bit over-intense in his work. He was lean and with a loose waistcoat. It has been said by some that a steamboat engineer, to be successful, should have a decent sized stomach to help steady him through the changing conditions in his running days. The suggestion is well founded.
We went under deck. Webster was striking somewhat lightly on a plate which showed some signs of inner scale when White broke out at him. "Mon ar' ye feart o' goin' through? Gie ma t-hammer." Whereupon he rained his forceful blows upon the plate with such vigor as to make the din ring. "Hoot," said he as he stopped, "I'd 'a got through gin 'a could, but 'a couldn't."
At the end of the afternoon the inspecting party came out. "Well, White," was asked, "what's the verdict?"
Wiping the sweat off his forehead with the sleeve of his shirt he answered: "Wull, ye may tell Mr. Smith that when he, and I, and you are 'a in our gravesChicorawill still be runnin' gin ye keep her off the rocks."
We therefore accepted the position set out by the railway companies and undertook to build a new steamer to be ready for the season of '88, and run the risk of profit on the investment while waiting for more traffic to grow up. We determined that speed was the essential requisite. First to perform the service with ease and regularity. Second to meet any competition which might afterwards arise.
There were then in Canada no builders of fast marine engines of the size we required. These were only to be found on the Clyde, so Mr. John Foy and I sailed the nextweek on theLahnof the North German Lloyd for Southampton.
We inspected the principal day boats on the lower Thames, and English Channel, making notes and enquiries. Thence to Liverpool for Isle of Man steamers. Here we called on the head office of "Lairds," the builders of theChicora, and made enquiries of her from the manager. "Chicora: Chicora, I don't remember any steamer of that name—Ah: did you say theLet Her B? Yes, she was the best ship of her class we ever built. There she is," and raising his hand he pointed to the model of theLet Her B, still hanging on the wall. He said they had built several steamers for service in blockade running into the ports of the Confederate States during the American Civil War. Three of these were namedLet Her Go,Let Her Rip,Let Her B. Of all the steamers which they had built the last named and the last turned out was the most successful. Fast, seaworthy, of a model which was a thing of beauty, she had not been surpassed. He was quite enthusiastic about her and added "She had a stronger frame than usual, so that she would be worth replating should it ever be desirable.[4]" He gave us every attention and much information and for the requirements which we detailed to him, advised us to go to the Clyde, giving us letters to some of the best yards there.
In travelling one makes strange acquaintances. On the day express between Liverpool and Glasgow when we were running at high speed down the grades into Carlisle and the carriage was banging from side to side a gentleman, the only other occupant with us, who had never said a word since we started suddenly broke into speech, at thesame time throwing his feet up on the seat opposite to him. "Pit yer legs up! Quick!" The necessity for doing this he explained by adding "Gin we leave the line yer legs might be cut off by the seats comin' tegither." A good laugh at his fears and earnestness dispelled the silence which had previously reigned. He was a Scotch shipowner, and finding we were in the same line became communicative.
How earnestly he blamed Plimsoll for his legislation in putting his "mark" for load line on British ships but leaving the foreigner free, with all the privileges of trading between British ports, and of loading as deeply as he pleased. The effect, he said, on the British coasting trade was, that as the foreigner could load as far as he liked, and therefore carry larger cargoes, he could accept lower rates. Many British vessels were in consequence of this competition sold out, and transferred to foreign ownership.
"I suppose he thinks it's not his business to keep the furriner from bein' drooned, yet he ties our hands and helps him take our trade, and noo he's at it agin."
Mr. Plimsoll was just then introducing a new Bill into the House of Commons at Westminster, proposing to make it illegal for Marine insurance companies to insure the hulls of vessels for more than two-thirds of their value.
With this legislation our Scotch friend was very irate.
"Does the man think I want to lose my vessels. I'm in the business as my fayther was, and I want to stay in the business. As things are I can insure for full value. If I meet an accident either I get my vessel back again, fit for her service, or I get the money and build a new and larger one. If every time I have a total loss I am to be docked of one-third of my capital, then it wouldn't be longbefore I'd be out of business. Ye never can keep up the British merchant marine that way."
But wouldn't it be better for the insurance companies?
"No, not at all. The insurance companies make their money, not on the ships' hulls, but on the cargoes which the ships carry. A single ship in one season will carry dozens of cargoes. We are the shuttles which carry backwards and forwards the cargo values on which the companies earn their rates. In fact, we help to earn their money for them. Where would be the cargoes without the ships? 'Gin Plimsoll had his way he'd wipe all the British ships off the seas, but we're no so bad as he wad paint us."
There was a good deal of truth in what he said, for given that the repute and moral hazard is good, it matters little so far as the owners exercise of care for the avoiding of loss is concerned, whether the insurance carried is for total value or only partial.
Needless to say the Plimsoll Bill did not carry. As evidence of our faith I may mention that in the early days, when the Niagara company was simply a family ownership, we insured only against fire and collision, carrying the whole of the marine risk ourselves. But we watched with infinite closeness the ships and our men, as is equally done now when the company insures for a portion of the value.
November in Glasgow! A mixture of smoke, fogs and grime. Never was such gloomy weather experienced. A soot of blue murkiness seemed to pervade the atmosphere. We visited and consulted with the builders of the fast steamers particularly the Fairfield Co. at Govan and the Denny's of Dunbarton. Nothing could exceed the freedom with which the fullest information was laid before us.
We also inspected the fast day steamers of the David Mactryne and the Caledonian S.S. companies among themtheColumbaandLord of the Isles, whose repute as day steamers for speed and equipment stood on the highest scale and are still (1912) performing their regular service.
While there was much to admire in them, yet we found they were lacking in many things in both exterior and interior fittings which our summer lake passengers would consider important.
For instance—in making a trip one day on one of these steamers there was a nasty drizzling rain. It dribbled down the main stairway which was open to the sky, and there were no awnings or coverings over the upper deck. As a result the passengers, who wished to have fresh air, sat along the deck seats, either huddled together under umbrellas, or wrapped up in the Scotch plaids with which almost everybody seemed to be supplied.
"What for why?" said the captain in reply to a suggestion that a deck awning might be a good thing. "To keep off the rain," was the reply. "Ah mon," said he, "it wad keep aff the sun."
Perhaps in the contrast between the Scotch climate and ours in Canada, he was right, for they cannot spare any of the glimpses of the sun so sparingly vouchsafed to them.
After fullest enquiry and consideration, we came to the conclusion that the best thing we could do was to repeat a highly successful day passenger paddle steamer, theOzonewhich had been built on the Clyde, and sent out to Australia a year and a half previously, and had there obtained a splendid record for speed and commercial success.
She was just the size we wanted, 250 feet long, 28' 6" beam in hull, or 52 feet over guards, draft 6 ft. 6 in. Compound engines with two cylinders of 47 inches, and 87 inches, developing 2000 horse power, and sending the steamer at the officially certified speed of 20 miles per houron the Scotch trials on the Clyde between theClochand theCumbrae.
This would be a step larger and a step faster thanChicora. We arranged with Mr. Robert Morton, the designer and supervisor of theOzone, for a set of plans and specifications for the hull, which, constructed of Dalzell steel, would be put together on the shores of Lake Ontario, where the upper cabin works would be added according to our own requirements.
They offered to deliver a fully completed steamer at Montreal in four months, but we would have had to cut her and take off one of the guards to get her up through the canals. For my part, I had had quite enough of bringing steamers in parts up the St. Lawrence River on which the smaller canals were still incompleted, so we decided to erect our new steamer on the shores of Lake Ontario.
The engines would be built by Rankin, Blackmore & Co., of Greenrock, from whose shops had come some of the fastest engines on the Clyde. These would be a repetition of the engines which had been so successfully built by them for theOzoneand would be shipped out in parts to Montreal by the first steamer in the spring.
FOOTNOTES:[4]Chicorawas put in dry dock at Kingston in the winter of 1904 and largely replated at an expense of $37,000.
[4]Chicorawas put in dry dock at Kingston in the winter of 1904 and largely replated at an expense of $37,000.
[4]Chicorawas put in dry dock at Kingston in the winter of 1904 and largely replated at an expense of $37,000.
After decisions had been made it still took some time for the arranging of tenders and completion of contracts.
During this wait we whiled away the time by seeing football played in seas of mud, and half lost in fogs, women by the thousands with heads uncovered except when they pulled their shawls over them, and children innumerable with feet entirely bare. Poor kiddies how they suffered when on one day there was a fall of snow. Such snow, damp, heavy clots, which moistened as they touched anything, exuding cold, and slobbering over the stone pavements.
The children wrapped their red frosted feet with rags, or bits of carpet, to keep them off the stones, while their elders hunched themselves together and shivered. No wonder these people feared the snow and cold of Canada, for they thought that if they felt such suffering in a temperature only just at the freezing point, what must it be when the thermometer went below zero.
Yet did they only know it, as many have since learned, the dry salt-like winter snow of Canada is pleasant for the children to play in, and the sensation of cold not to be measured by the figures on the thermometer. It is the dampness which brings the suffering, which, needing to bemet by heat from within, inclines to the suggestion, expressed by some, that whiskey is a natural beverage for Scotland. That it is a usual one I learned in actual experience.
In our "steamboat samplings" we had made a trip through the "Kyles of Bute" and to Tarbert, where we took carriage across the Mull of Cantire to the outer sea. Stopping for lunch at a neat little inn about half way across. The mid-day meal was being served in a large room with one long table down the centre. At this all the company sat, one, apparently a commercial traveller, occupying the seat at the head and doing the carving. A large open fireplace with glowing fire gave comfort and pleasant radiance.
The one maid, a cheery looking young girl, did all the serving and was busy in her attentions to the guests. When she had got them all served I asked her, as she passed by, if she would please get me a cup of tea. Pausing for a moment she gave me a searching look and then without speaking passed on. A little while later I again caught her attention and suggesting that perhaps she had not understood me, said that I would like to have a cup of tea. Bending forward over me with a puckering of the forehead she said abruptly, "Where do ye coom frae?" "From Canada," I answered.
"Dye ye hae tea 'i the noon in Canada?" "Yes," said I in my most pleasing tone, "we have tea three times in the day in Canada—at morning, mid-day and evening."
With a sniff she retorted, "Wull, y're no in Canada the noo, y're in Scotland. Y' cannot hae tea i' the middle o' the day in Scotland—ye can hae whiskey."
I didn't so I'm afraid Canada fell greatly in her estimation.
Sir Thomas Lipton on CHICORA. page 175Sir Thomas Lipton on CHICORA.page 175
H.R.H. the Duke and Duchess of York going on board CORONA. page 183H.R.H. the Duke and Duchess of York going on board CORONA.page 183
The contracts were at length completed and we hastened for home, taking the Guion LineAlaskaas the fastest ship on the Atlantic. She held the "record" for the then fastest passage, 6 days, 21 hours, 40 minutes from Queenston to New York.
We had a frightful passage, during one 24 hours making only 52 miles. When the captain of a first-class Atlantic liner enters on his log, as ours did next day, "dangerous sea," one may feel satisfied that something unusual had been going on.
Instead of not over eight days, as had been expected, we took twelve days, much to the alarm of our families, and reached Toronto only three days before Christmas.
SoChicoraand her successor had twice run the home-coming festival pretty close.
In 1887 the services were opened byChicoraalone, with Capt. McCorquodale in command.
Construction of the new steamer was begun early in April in the yards of the E. W. Rathbun Company, at Deseronto on the Bay of Quinte, there being then no other shipyard on the shores of Lake Ontario. The facilities here were excellent, in convenience of access by rail to the waterside, and in complete iron and wood-working factories for the cabin construction.
The hull was erected by W. C. White, of Montreal, who also had built the steamerFilgate, and the wood-work done by ourselves and the Rathbuns under the charge of our foreman carpenter, Mr. J. Whalen.
The engines arrived in good shape and were erected in the hull by Rankin, Blackmore & Co., who sent out men for this purpose.
The cabin work was being made in sections in the workshops, so that it could be erected as soon as the decks were ready.
In the early part of the season of 1887 the New York Central completed the extension of its tracks to the shore line at Lewiston, just above the steamer dock. The relief to the traffic was welcome and immediate. The passengers were saved the weary jolting for the mile and a half transfer through enveloping dust, or of red bespattering mud, according to the varying conditions of the weather, and the through time between Niagara Falls and the steamer was also much shortened.
Ever since the branch railway had emerged from the Gorge this trial of temper and nerves had continued just in the same state as it had when Lewiston was the focus centre for the quickest routes to Rochester, Ogdensburgh, and to Albany and New York, via Lake Champlain, and the only route to Toronto, Kingston and Montreal.
At length, after a meritorious service of so many years, their duty being over, the lumbering old Transfer Coaches, which looked as though they had never felt another coat of paint since their first, were consigned to the retirement of broken bottles and old tins. No traces of them are now to be found. There are, however, some notable memorials still left in the old town of its earliest days of tourist and travel activities.
On the old road between Lewiston and the dock, once traversed by the transfer coaches, and part of the main road from Bataira when the village was known as "Lewis-Town," is the "Frontier House," built in 1825, and for many years considered the "finest hotel west of Albany." It was once the stopping place of many early celebrities, and with its broad stoop and great pillars is still a very prominent building. The residence of Captain Van Cleve, one of the earliest navigators on the lakes, and who sailedfrom the port on theMartha Ogden, is on the hillside not far from the present terminus of the railway.
At last the railway and the steamers had been brought alongside. This facility of interchange, and the shortening of the schedule time much improved the volume of traffic in both directions and a start was made which indicated that, when made more fully known to the general public, would justify the expenditures being made by both the railway and the steamer interests.
A new era was being opened for the Niagara River route. We had brought about the first steps, had taken part in the bringing of the railways and the river together, and now were to add the new steamer.
Consideration of what should be the name of the new addition was much occupying the attention not only of ourselves but of many others.
It was conceded that the name must begin with a "C," and end with "A," and not exceeding eight letters in length, so that proper balance in advertising display might be preserved. A good deal of public interest was taken in the matter and many names suggested.
A number of these were selected, and a somewhat novel method adopted for coming to the final decision.
The members, both male and female, of the two families interested in the company, were invited by Hon. Frank Smith, to dine at "Rivermount," his residence on Bloor street. We sat down about twenty-five in number, being all the adult members of the Frank Smith, Foy and Cumberland connections, and at a splendid repast good fortune to the new steamer was heartily toasted.
I had had some twenty posters printed in the same size and wording as we then used for street advertising purposes. On each of these was displayed the nameChicoratogether with one of the new names which had been suggested. These posters were then set in a line along one side of the spacious hall, so that the exact effect of the contiguity of the two names could be seen.
After dinner a sort of Dutch auction was held. The adherents of each name stated the reasons for their preference, promoting some amusing discussion. Each of the posters was then voted on in succession and with varying majorities ordered down until finally the one withChicoraandCibolagained the preference.
There would seem good reason for this selection, for in addition to the suitability in appearance and emphony of the two names, a very interesting historical connection between them had been unearthed in the archives and annals in the beginning of Spanish-American history, after following up the exploits of Pizzaro in South America.
The early Spaniards had made a foothold in the island of Cuba. Ponce-de-Leon had visited the shores of Florida, but it was not until 1539 that Hermando-de-Soto, heading an expedition from the Island, established the first permanent occupation upon the mainland for the Spanish nation.
A settlement was formed and a fortress built at Ste. Augustine. Spanish influence thereafter gradually extended around the northern shores of the Gulf of Mexico toward the Mississippi and inland through the intervening Indian country which was then called theChicora Country—"The land of pretty flowers."
Beyond this and on the other side of the far shores of the Mississippi lay the widespread grazing territories where the Spanish adventurers conceived would be opportunity for further exploits.
Somewhere about the year 1580 a coterie of these venturesome ones carried over with them to Spain a party of the native Indians including among them the principal Chief of the Chicora Indians, the occupants of the country between Florida and the river. These they presented at their sovereign's court as visible evidences of their travellings and enterprises.
In those early days of discovery on this Western hemisphere, and for long years afterwards, it is noticeable in how lordly a manner the Sovereigns and Magnates of Europe parcelled out the new found territories, making wholesale grants of land to their own followers with or out the leave of the original Indian occupants. In this case the representative Chief was present. The King created him "Don Francisco de Chicora," and a grant was confirmed to his introducers of all the country lying adjacent to the Gulf of Mexico, on the far side of the Mississippi.
Returning with this authority the Spaniards extended their enterprises to their new opportunities. As they advanced westward they found on the terraces of the great plains, and on the foothills of the mountain ranges, the countless "Cibolos," or Buffalo, ranging in mighty bands over the nature pastures.
It was in consequence of this that when giving a name to the new Province which was being added to their previous domain, they named it "Cibola," "the Buffalo country." This name is still preserved by a ranching hamlet in a part of that territory now in the State of Texas.
As another steamer was to be added in partnership withChicora"the pretty flower," what more appropriate name could we give to her than that of "Cibola," "the Buffalo," in reminiscence of the old time territorial expansion.
SoCibolait was to be. There was also a further propriety in the selection that this "Buffalo boat" was to be one of the line of steamers which were to form the greatly improved connection between Toronto, and the great and modern city of Buffalo.
On 1st of November the steamer was successfully launched in the presence of a large party brought down by special train from Toronto, the nameCibolabeing given, and the traditional bottle of champagne smashingly broken on the bow, by Miss Constance Cumberland, the youngest sister of the Vice-President, and who subsequently married Mr. A. Foy, a brother of the Manager.
The firms engaged on the construction were:—Designer, Robert Morton, Glasgow; steel hull, Dalzell Co., Dalzell, Scotland; erection of hull, W. White & Co., Montreal; marine engines, Rankin Blackmore & Co., Greenock; wood-work, Rathbun Co., Deseronto; interior mahogany and decoration, Wm. Wright & Co., Detroit; electric lighting, Edison Co., New York.
TheChicoraseason of 1887 had been exceedingly active. The opening of the New York Central to the bank of the river largely increased the facilities and the movement of traffic.
The steamerHastingswas chartered to make the early trips from Niagara and late from Toronto, and to carry the increasing fruit business. We had acquired the rights of the International Ferry between Queenston and Lewiston and chartered the small steamerKathleento perform the service and to transfer passengers to the main line steamers.
A new excursion feature in connection with the extension of their line was introduced by the New York Central by "shuttle trains" withobservation carsrun frequentlybetween the Falls and Lewiston. These cars were open on the side next the river and the passenger seats set length-wise, facing the view, were raised in tiers one above the other, securing an unimpeded view of the scenery of the wonderful rapids and Niagara Gorge.
The Kathleen ran in connection with these trains, giving the tourists the full length of the Lower River to Niagara and also calling at Youngstown for the Fort and Town passengers.
Business at Queenston, where we had improved the dock, was much increased, due to our working up the excursions which were rendered more attractive by the great improvements made by the Queen Victoria Niagara Park Commissioners in the park upon the Queenston Heights and around Brock's Monument.
An excellent season closed without further incident.
During the winter of 1887-88 the cabin work had proceeded assiduously onCibola. During this period we came much into personal contact with Mr. E. W. Rathbun, the head of the Rathbun Co., and, one might say, the physical embodiment of Deseronto and of everything within its borders. In the prime of life, genial, incisive, he was the focus centre of vibrant energies.
It seemed to be his ambition that no by-product in his enterprises should escape undeveloped.
He was interested in every public and benevolent project in the vicinity and although not himself entering into parliamentary duties, his opinion was much sought and valued in political development. With intense devotion to his work, and much continuous strain on his energies it was not to be wondered that his years were not many.
At length the spring of 1888 had come. The work was well advanced but, as usual, the carpenters and painters lingered on in possession.
Chicorahad opened the season and it was absolutely necessary thatCibolashould be on hand to take part in moving the troops to Niagara Camp on 10th June.
The only thing to do was to bring the whole working force away with the steamer. Capt. McCorquodale was in command, Capt. McGiffin having been appointed to theChicora.
A small party of friends had come down for the trip up, among them Alderman John Baxter, of Toronto a genial soul, whose girth was not far from equalling his height, he was the very embodiment of merriment and was a most excellent singer. As the most elderly member we dubbed him The Chaplain, although perhaps he was not the most sedate. Mr. Ross Hayter, a Tea Planter cousin, lately Come from Assam, and who was the first to introduce Indian package tea to Canada, was installed as the Doctor, and Mr. Gus Foy, brother of Mr. John Foy, ably acted as Steward.
We left in the morning with the decks encumbered by every description of material for all trades.
As each rounded point, and changing turn of this island-studded channel came in view one could not but recall that along these waters once came from Montreal, and Cataraqui, the fleet of canoes carrying the families of the Six Nations Indians to the new homes, which had been given them by the British Government, to replace those in the State of New York, which they had lost by their loyal adherence to the King's cause during the War of the Revolution. One party under Chief Deseronto had determined to stop at a reservation which had been selected on the shores of the Bay of Quinte. Before leavingCataraqui, the communion service which had been given to their ancestors by Queen Anne in 1712, for their chapel in the Mohawk Valley in the Colony of New York, had been divided between the bands, the larger share being given to the more numerous party under Chief Brant, which separating from their Deseronto companions went onward up Lake Ontario to their reservation upon the banks of the Grand River.
The CHIPPEWA in Toronto Harbour. page 174The CHIPPEWA in Toronto Harbour.page 174
These reservations are still occupied by their descendants, who are ardent militia men, serving with intense activity in the Indian companies of the 37th Haldimand Rifles, one of the most efficient in the Canadian Militia. All Canadians, should remember that these quiet featured men are the lineal descendants of those steadfast ancestors, who gave up their homes and all for the British cause, and were the first United Empire Loyalists to come to Canada.
Later after 1783, other migrations came up these inner channels.
These were the United Empire Loyalists, descendants of the British pioneers and settlers who had founded the English colonies in America, but who having fought on the King's side in the Revolution were driven out of their homes and their property confiscated, but who chose, rather than foreswear their allegiance, to come north into the forests of Canada where they could live beneath the British flag under which they and their fathers had been born.
It was a meeting, too, with the first steamboat ventures of Upper Canada, for on "Finkle's Point," which we passed, theFrontenac, the first steamer to sail on Lake Ontario, had been built in 1815.
ChicoraandCibolatogether carried the troops to camp and performed the services of the route for 1888. The leaving times from Toronto were 7 a.m., 11 a.m., 2 p.m., 4.45 p.m., theChicorataking the morning trip from Lewiston.
This was a very considerable increase, being in fact a doubling of the previous service, and although the traffic did not at first justify it, the trade soon began to show signs of building up, the new steamer proving herself a valuable addition by her higher speed, larger capacity for passengers and with running expenses practically the same.
The arrangements for the militia at the camp at Niagara in these early days were in the charge of Lt.-Col. Robert Denison, one of the Denison family, who have taken so large a part in the military annals of the country, and an uncle of Lt.-Col. George T. Denison.
Col. "Bob" as he was most frequently called, was the Brigade Major for the Western District with his headquarters in the "Old Fort" at Toronto in the original "Officers Quarters" building which had been military headquarters for the Province since 1813. This old building is still in existence and is to be preserved as part of the restoration of the Old Fort.
Unconventional and breezy in his ways, he used, referring to the fact that he had entirely lost one eye, to say that he "had a single eye to Her Majesty's Service," and sitting straddled, as was his habit, on a four-legged saddle shaped sort of seat that "he was always in the saddle, ready for a call to action."
In 1889CibolaandChicora, continued their usual services with satisfaction and regularity.
The Observation Train service of the New York Central Railway increased much in importance as also the transfer between Lewiston and Queenston. A smart little steamer was purchased to specially fill these services.
Following our habit we searched for some name which would be appropriate to the conditions.
The "Relations des Jesuits" are the reports sent back to France between 1616 and 1672 by the devoted Jesuit priests who had come over in the early French Regime and worked among the Indians for their Christianization. Much information is given in these conditions among the tribes, and concerning the geography of the country.
One of these,Pere Lallement, reports that in 1642 an "Onguiaara" tribe of Indians were living between the two lower lakes on a river bearing the same name as the tribe. Later on the Great Falls on this river are mentioned as the "Ongiara Cataractes." This name ofOngiara, which was the earliest by which the river was known among the Indians, has since been transmuted by the whites into its present name Niagara.
We therefore named the little steamerOngiaraas being appropriate to the history of her surroundings, and to her duties between the original portage routes of Indian and historic periods at the landings at Lewiston and Queenston.
During 1889 we had the pleasure of a visit from Captain George B. Boynton, the former owner ofChicorain her blockade running days, who was delighted to renew acquaintance with his early ally. He gave us many reminiscenses of that stirring period, the narration of them cannot be done better than by giving extract by courteous permission of the publisher from his narrative as afterwards contained[5]under the heading "Looking for Trouble." Copyright, 1911, byAdventure Magazine, the Ridgway Company.
After giving an account of his earlier life and share in the American Civil War, and of a project to join some adventures in Cuba he says, "While I was wondering how I could get into communication with Cespedes, my interest was aroused by a newspaper story of the new blockade runnerLet Her B.TheLet Her B., whose name was a play on words, was a long, powerful, schooner-rigged steamship, built by Lairds on the Mersey. Though classed as a fifteen-knot ship she could do sixteen or seventeen knots (19 miles) which was fast going at that time. There was so much money in blockade-running that the owners of one could well afford to lose her after she had made three successful trips.
"In five minutes I decided to become a blockade-runner and to buy the new and already famous ship, if she was to be had at any price within reason. I bought a letter of credit and took the next ship for Bermuda. On my arrival there I found that theLet Her B.had been expected in for several days from her second trip and that there was considerable anxiety about her. A fresh cargo of munitions of war was awaiting theLet Her B, and a ship was ready to take to England the cotton she would bring.
"I got acquainted with the agent for the blockade-runner, and offered to buy her and take the chance that she might never come in. He wanted me to wait until the arrival of her owner, Joseph Berry, who was expected daily from England.
"After waiting several days I said to him one morning, "It looks as though your ship had been captured or sunk. I'll take a gambler's chance that she hasn't and will give you $50,000 for her and $25,000 for the cargo that is waiting for her; you to take the cargo she brings in. I'll give you three hours to think it over."
"It looked as though I was taking a long chance, but I had a "hunch" that she was all right, and I never have had a well-defined "hunch" steer me in anything but a safe course, wherefore I invariably heed them. At the expiration of the time limit there was not a sign of smoke in any direction and the agent accepted my proposition. In half an hour I had a bill of sale for the ship and the warehouse receipts for the cargo of war-supplies.
"At sunset that day a ship came in from England with her former owner. He criticized his agent sharptly at first, but when two more days passed with no sign of the anxiously-looked-for ship, Mr. Berry concluded that he had all thebest of the bargain, and complimented his agent on his shrewdness.
"On the third day theLet Her B.came tearing in, pursued at long range by the U.S.S. Powhatan, which proceeded to stand guard over the harbour, keeping well off shore on account of the reefs and shoals that were under her lee.
"TheLet Her B.discharged a full cargo of cotton and was turned over to me. I went over her carefully while her cargo of arms was going in and found her in excellent condition. She was unloaded in twelve hours, and all her cargo was safely stowed in another forty-eight hours. I took command of her, with John B. Williams, her old captain, as sailing master, and determined to put to sea at once.
"I knew the Powhatan would not be looking for us so soon, and planned to catch her off her guard. There was then no man-of-war entrance to the harbor and it was necessary to enter and leave by daylight. With the sun just high enough to let us get clear of the reefs before dark, and with the Powhatan well off shore and at the farthest end of the course she was lazily patrolling, we put to sea.
"The Powhatan saw us sooner than I had expected, and started but she was not quick enough. The moment she swung around I increased our speed to a point which the pilot loudly swore would pile us up on the rocks. But it didn't and when we cleared the passage we were all of four miles in the lead. As I had figured, the Powhatan did not suppose we would come out for at least a week, and was cruising slowly about with fires banked, so it took her some time to get up a full head of steam. She fired three or four shots at us, but they fell far short.
"At sunrise we had the ocean to ourselves.
"I started in at once to master practical navigation, the theory of which I knew, and to familiarize myself with the handling of a ship. I stood at the wheel for hours at a time and almost wore out the instruments taking reckonings by the sun and stars. Navigation came to me naturally, for I loved it, and in three days I would have been willing to undertake a cruise around the world with a Chinese crew.
"We arrived off Charleston late in the afternoon and steamed up close inshore until we could make out the smoke of the blockading fleet, which was standing well out, in a semi-circle. Then we dropped back a bit and anchored. All of the conditions shaped themselves to favor us. It was a murky night, with a hard blow, which came up late in the afternoon, and when we got under way at midnight a good bit of a sea was running.
"With the engines held down to only about half speed, but ready to do their best in a twinkling, we headed for the harbor, standing as close inshore as we dared go. We passed so close to the blockading-ship stationed at the lower end of the crescent that she could not have depressed her guns enough to hit us even if we had been discovered in time. But she did not see us until we had passed her. Then she let go at us with her bow guns and, while they did no damage, we were at such close quarters that their flash gave the other ships a glimpse of us as we darted away.
"They immediately opened on us, but after the first minute or two it was a case of haphazard shooting with all of them. The first shells exploded close around us, and some of the fragments came aboard, but no one was injured. When I saw where they were firing I threw my ship farther over toward Sullivan's Island, where she could go on accountof her light draft, and sailed quietly along into the harbor at reduced speed. At daylight we went up to the dock and were warmly welcomed.
"Before the second night was half over we had everything out of her and a full cargo of cotton aboard, and we steamed out at once. I knew the blockaders would not expect us for at least four days, and we surprised them just as we had surprised the Powhatan at Bermuda. It was a thick night, and we sailed right through the fleet at half speed, but prepared to break and run for it at the crack of a gun. Not a shot was fired or an extra light shown.
"As soon as we were clear of the line we put on full speed and three days later we were safe at Turk's Island, the most southerly and easterly of the Bahama Islands, off the coast of Florida, which I had selected as a base of operations. These islands were a haven and a clearing-house for the outsiders who were actively aiding the Confederacy for a very substantial consideration.
"Most of the blockade-runners, including theBanshee,Siren,Robert E. Lee,Lady Sterling, and other famous ships, were operating out of Nassau, which had the advantage of closer proximity to the chief Southern posts, being within 600 miles of Charleston and Wilmington, while Turk's Island was 900 miles away, but I never have believed in following the crowd. It is my rule to do things alone and in my own way, as must be the practice of every man who expects to succeed in any dangerous business. The popularity of Nassau caused it to be closely watched by the Federal cruisers that patrolled the Gulf Stream, while the less important islands to the south and east were practically unguarded.
"Though precarious for the men who made them so, those were plenteous days for the Bahamas, compared withwhich the rich tourist toll since levied on the Yankees is but small change. The fortunes yielded by blockade-running seemed made by magic, so quick was the process. Cotton that was bought in Charleston or Wilmington for ten cents a pound sold for ten times as much in the Bahamas, and there were enormous profits in the return cargoes or military supplies. The captains and crews shared in the proceeds and the health of the Confederacy was drunk continuously and often riotously.
"By the time I projected myself temporarily into this golden atmosphere of abnormal activity, running the blockade had become more of a business and less of a romance than it was in the reckless early days of the war.
"Before leaving Bermuda I had ordered a cargo of munitions of war sent to Turk's Island. We had to wait nearly a month for this shipment to arrive, but the time was well spent in overhauling the engines and putting theLet Her Bin perfect condition.
"My second trip to Charleston furnished a degree of excitement that exalted my soul. While we were held up at Turk's Island the blockading fleet had been strengthened and supplemented by several small and fast boats which cruised around outside of the line. Without knowing this I had decided—it must have been in response to a "hunch"—to make a dash straight through the line and into the harbor. And it was fortunate that we followed this plan, for they were expecting us to come up from the south, hugging the shore as we had done before, and if we had taken that course they certainly would have sunk us or forced us aground.
"We were proceeding cautiously, but did not think we were close to the danger zone, when suddenly one of the patrol ships picked us up and opened fire. Her gunswere no better than pea-shooters, but they gave the signal to the fleet, and instantly lights popped up all along the line ahead.
"In the flashing lights ahead I saw all of the excitement that I had been longing for, and with an exultant yell to the helmsman to "Tell the engineer to give her ——l," I pushed him aside and seized the wheel. I fondled the spokes lovingly and leaned over them in a tumult of joy. It was the great moment of which I had dreamed from boyhood.
"I had anticipated that when it came I would be considerably excited and forgetful of all of my carefully-thought-out plans for meeting an emergency, but to my surprise I found that I was as cool as though we had been riding at anchor in New York Bay. The opening gun cleared my mind of all its anxieties and intensified its action. I remember that I took time to analyze my feelings to make sure that I was calm and collected and not stunned and stolid and that I was silent from choice and not through anything of fear.
"As though spurred by a human impulse, the little ship sprang forward as she felt the full force of her engines and never did she make such a race as she did that night. In the sea that was running and at the speed that we were going we would ordinarily have had two men at the wheel, but I found it so easy and so delightful to handle the ship alone that I declined the assistance of Captain Williams, who stood behind me.
"Though I am not tall, being not much over five feet and eight inches, nature was kind in giving me a well-set-up frame and a powerful constitution, devoid of nerves but with muscles of steel, and with a reserve supply of strength that made me marvel at its source.
"The widest opening in the already closing line was, luckily directly in front of us, and I headed for it. The sparks from our smokestack gave the blockaders our course as plainly as though it had been noon-day, and they closed in from both sides to head us off. Shot and shell screamed and sang all around the undauntedLet Her B.
"First the mainmast and then the foremast came down with a crash, littering the decks with their gear. A shell carried death into the forecastle. One shot tore away the two forward stanchions of the pilot-house, and another one smashed through the roof, but neither Captain Williams nor I was injured. All of our boats and most of our upper works were literally shot to pieces.
"From first to last we must have been under the terrific fire for half an hour, but it seemed not more than a few minutes, and it really was with something of regret that I found the shots were falling astern. When we got up to the dock we found that five of our men had been killed and a dozen more or less injured. The ship had not been damaged at all, so far as speed and seaworthiness in ordinary weather were concerned, though she looked a wreck.
"The blockaders expected we would be laid up for a month. Consequently when we steamed out on the fourth night, after making only temporary repairs, they were not looking for us and we got through their line without much trouble.
"We refitted at Turk's Island, where we laid up for three weeks.
"I made two more trips to Charleston without any very exciting experiences, though we were fired on both times, and then sold the ship to an enterprising Englishman at Turk's Island. I made a comfortable fortune with her and sold her for more than I paid for her."
TheLet Her B.was never captured, but the war closed the year after her arrival and upon its conclusion she was brought North and registered as a Canadian vessel at the Port of Pictou, Nova Scotia, and her name at the same time changed toChicora.