Chapter 6

Account of the River Amazons.

The Sum of his Discovery, besides what has been mention’d already, is as follows. There’s a Tree on the Banks of this River call’dAndirova, from whence they draw an Oil that is a Specifick for curing Wounds. There’s plenty of Iron-Wood, so nam’d because of its Hardness, Red-Wood, Log-Wood,Brazile, and Cedars so large, thatAcugnasays he measur’d some that were 30 span round the Trunk. They have Timber enough to build Ships, make Cordage of the Barks of Trees, and Sails of Cotton, but want Iron. They make Hatchets of Tortoise-shells, or hard Stones ground toan Edg; and Chizzels, Planes, and Wimbles of the Teeth and Horns of wild Beasts. Their chief Directors are Sorcerers, who are the Managers of their hellish Worship, and teach them how to revenge themselves on their Enemies by Poison and other barbarous methods. Some of them keep the Bones of their deceas’d Relations in their Houses; and others burn them with all their Movables, and solemnize their Funerals first by mourning, and then by excessive drinking. Yet the Father says they are in general good-natur’d and courteous, and many times left their own Hutts to accommodate him and his Company. Some of these Nations, particularly theOmaguas, whose Country is 260 Leagues long, and the most populous on the River, are decently clad in Rayment of Cotton, and trade in it with their Neighbours. Some of the other Nations wear Plates of Gold at their Ears and Nostrils; and their Joiners are so expert, that they make Chairs and other Houshold Furniture in the shapes of several Animals with great Art.

The Jesuits ofQuitoinPeruhave engrav’d a Map of this River, in which they give the following Account,viz.That ’tis the greatest in the known World: That tho it be call’d by the name ofAmazonsorOrellana, its true name isMaranhon: That it rises from the LakeLauricocha, as we have mention’d already, runs 1800 Leagues, and falls into the North Sea by 84 Mouths: That near the CityBorjait is pent up by a Strait call’dEl-Pongo, not above 13 Fathom wide and 3 Ls. long; where the Stream is so rapid, that Boats run it in a quarter of an hour. The Truth of this must be submitted to the Judgment of the Reader, but it seems very improbable, since none of those who sail’d up and down this River describe it thus: besides, ’twere impossible to sail up against so rapid a Stream without a Tide, which theSansonssay comes up to this Strait; but they make it a mile broad, and by consequence not so rapid. The Jesuits add, that both Banks from the CityJaenin the Province ofBracamoros, where it begins to be navigable, down to the Sea, are cover’d with Woods of very tall Trees, among which there’s Timber of all colours, abundance ofSarsaparilla, and the Bark they call Cloves, which is us’d by Dyers and Cooks. In the neighbouring Woods there are many Tygers, wild Boars, and Buffaloes,&c.The Jesuits began their Mission upon this River in 1638. have their Capital at the City ofSt. FrancisofBorjain the Province ofManos, 300 Leagues fromQuito; and their Mission extends along three other Riversas far as the Province of theOmaguas, whither they make sometimes long and dangerous Voyages in Canoes. They give an account of eight of their number that have been murder’d by theBarbarians, the last of them in 1707. BesidesBorjaand its Dependencies, they have 39 Towns founded mostly by their own Labour and Charge, but we shan’t insist on their Names. Their Converts they reckon at 26000, and the Missionaries about 18. They add, that they have contracted Amity with several numerous Nations, whose Conversion they hope for.

ThePortuguesehave some Towns at the Mouth of this River, and a Fort onRio Negro; so that of late years they have traded much upon it, and, as severalSpaniardsinform’d me, during the last Peace they extended their Commerce as far asQuitoand many other Places inPeru. I have insisted the longer on this River, because it is of so great Fame, and may be of mighty Advantage for Trade.

The River ofLa Platabeing the South Boundary ofBrazile, within the Limits of theSouth-SeaCompany, and lying conveniently for opening a great Trade from the North-Sea withPeru,Chili, and other vast Countries; I shall give a Description of it here, from the best Authors.

The firstEuropeanwho discover’d it, seems to have beenJuan Dias de Solis, who sailing fromSpainin 1512. some say 1515. run along the Coast ofBraziletill he came to this River, saysOvalle. With him agree the Manuscripts taken on someSpanishPriests in this River by Capt.Withrington, publish’d inHarris’sCollections[108]; where we are told,De Solisobtain’d the Government of this River, but was murder’d by the Natives with most of his Men in 1515. The next who came hither wasSebastian Cabotin 1526. but his Men being mutinous, he had not the desir’d Success, tho he sail’d 150, some say 200 Leagues up this River; and purchasing many Pieces of Gold and Silver Plate from the Natives, who call’d this RiverParama, he call’d it the River of Plate, because he thought it to be the Product of the Country, which was afterwards found to be a Mistake. Yet upon his Report, in 1530. when he return’d, the EmperorCharlesV. sent DonPeter Mendoza, one of his chief Grandees, with 2200 Men besides Mariners, to plant a Colony here in

Account of the River La Plata.

1535. and they had so great hopes of finding Mines of Gold and Silver, that above thirty Heirs of noble Families went on the Expedition; and sailing 50 Leagues up the River, where the Air was good, he founded a Town, which from thence was call’dBuenos-Ayres. They built a Fort, and enlarg’d the Town; but as they were carrying on their Work, the Natives attack’d them, and overpowering them with Numbers, kill’d 250, among whom were several of the chief Men. This oblig’d theSpaniardsto keep within their Fort, where they suffer’d much by Famine.Mendozareturn’d towardsSpain, but died miserably, with many of his Companions, for want of Provisions by the way. His Deputy-GovernourOyolasail’d up intoParaguay, in quest of a Country said to abound with Gold and Silver; but was treacherously slain by the Natives, with all his Followers.

Iralawho was his Deputy, and left atBuenos-Ayres, contracted a Friendship with some of the Natives call’dGuaranians. In 1538. he builtAssumptionin their Country, which is now the Metropolis ofParaguay, and leftBuenos-Ayresfor a time.Assumptionlies on the Banks of the RiverParaguay, in S. Lat. 25. 240 Leagues from the Sea, and 40 from the Mouth of the RiverParaguay, where it falls intoLa Plata, These Rivers after they join continue their natural Colour for several miles,La Platabeing clear, andParaguaymuddy. The latter is by much the most considerable River, and the adjacent Country abounds with Mines of Gold and Silver, and is navigable above 200 Leagues. The RiverUruquayfalls intoParaguayon the right side, and runs a Course of 300 Leagues, according toSeppthe Jesuit, who in his Voyage says ’tis as big as theDanubeatVienna. In short, as to this RiverLa Plata, Authors are not agreed. Some of the Jesuits who are Missionaries in those Countries think it to be the same with that call’dParaguayhigher up in the Country, and that it has a Communication with the North-East Coast ofBrazileby the RiverSt. Meary, which rises out of the same Lake, and runs N E. asParaguayorPlataruns S. and afterwards to the S E. when it falls into the Sea. Be that how it will, here are many Rivers which fall into the same Channel on both sides. But that which is commonly call’dLa Plata, begins near the Town of that Name about S. Lat. 19. and after running N. a little way, takes its Course S E. till it join the RiverParaguay. So that I chuse rather to trust to the Account given us by Mr.Whiteour Linguist, who having dwelt long in that Country, told me this River derives itsName from the Town ofLa Plata, a sort of Metropolis to which there lies an Appeal from other Jurisdictions. He adds, that ’tis a pretty Town, has fourteen Churches with a Cathedral, and four Nunneries, and lies North-west fromBuenos-Ayresabout 500 Leagues, which requires commonly two months and a half’s Travel.

All are agreed thatLa Platais very large at the Mouth, where some account it 50, and others 30 Leagues broad. The Mouth of it is dangerous because of Sands, and therefore requires Pilots.Knivet,[109]in his Description of theWest-Indies, says, the best way to avoid those Sands is to keep near the North Shore till you come to a high Mountain white at top; and then to sail 4 Ls. South, to another small Hill on the North side, near which you must sail. This brings you into a fair Bay, where you must still keep along shore: and after passing the West Point of this Bay, you come to the RiverMaroer, and then there are no more Shoals between that andBuenos-Ayres.

La Plataruns into the Sea about S. Lat. 35. and sometimes overflows the Country for several miles, when the Natives put their Goods into Canoes, and float about till the Inundation assuages, and then they return to their Habitations.Ovallegives the following Account of this River,viz.That it runs with such a mighty Stream into the Sea, as makes it fresh for a great way: That the Water of this River is very sweet, clears the Voice and Lungs, and is good against all Rheums and Defluxions: That the People who dwell about it have excellent Voices, and are all inclin’d to Musick: That it petrifies the Branches of Trees, and other things which fall into it; and that Vessels are naturally form’d of its Sand, which are of various Figures, look as if they were polish’d by Art, and keep Water very cool. It breeds great store of excellent Fish of divers sorts, and most beautiful Birds of all kinds are seen on its Banks.Seppinforms us, that this River andUraguayabound so with Fish, that the Natives catch great numbers of them without any other Instrument than their Hands: one of the choicest, call’d the Kings-Fish, is small without Bones, and taken only in Winter. Our Author, says he never saw anyEuropeanFish in this latter, except one that theSpaniardscallBocado; and that the Fish are larger here than ours, of a dark or yellow colour, and well tasted; which he ascribes to the nature of

Image unavailable: THE ISLANDS OF JUAN FERNANDEZ, WHERE ALEXANDER SELKIRK WAS FOUNDTHE ISLANDS OF JUAN FERNANDEZ, WHERE ALEXANDER SELKIRK WAS FOUND

Account of the River La Plata.

the Water, that tho drunk in great quantities even after raw Fruit, helps Digestion, and never does any hurt. The Plains about this River are so large and even, without any Obstruction to the Sight, that the Sun seems to rise and set in them. Their way of travelling in those Plains is by high Carts cover’d with Hoops and Cows-Hides like our Waggons, with Conveniency for Travellers to sleep in the bottom; which is so much the better, because they travel most by night to avoid the Heat. They are drawn by Oxen, which are frequently so pinch’d by Drought, that when they come towards any Water, which they smell at a great distance, they run furiously to it, and drink up the very Mud which they raise with their Feet. This obliges Travellers to furnish themselves with Water and other Provisions for their Journy; there being no Water to be had, except by Rain: so that Travellers are frequently as much distress’d for want of Water as the Oxen, and can scarce get any that’s clear at the Watering-places, tho they send before-hand, because the Oxen run with so much haste to it that they make it all in a puddle:Ovallesays, that in this case Travellers are forc’d to stop their Noses and shut their Eyes when they drink it. The Journy thro these Plains is at least 14 or 20 days, without any place of shelter, or any Firing to dress their Victuals but the dry’d Dung of Cattle. Yet there are several Lakes and Ponds where Inns might be fix’d, but ’tis neglected because there’s no settled Trade that way.

It remains to give some account of the Towns upon the RiverPlataand on the Road toPotosi. 1.Buenos-Ayreslies upon the River 50 Leagues from the Sea, about Lat. 36. Our Linguist inform’d me that ’tis the Residence of aSpanishGovernour, is defended by a Stone Fort mounted with 40 Guns, and is generally garison’d by 4 or 500 Men. The Harbour is pretty good, but troublesom in a N W. and W. Wind. The River is 7 Ls. broad there, and navigable by Ships 60 Ls. above the Town, but no further, because of a great Cataract. The Town has one Cathedral, and five other Churches: ThePortuguesehad a Settlement over against this Town, but were dislodg’d by theSpaniardsat the beginning of this War; since which time theFrenchdrive aGuineaTrade hither for Negroes, who are sent over Land toPeruandChili, and yield them vast Profit. The Trade from hence toSpainis in Hides and Tallow, Silver fromPeru, and Gold and Silver fromChili. AllEuropeanGoods yield a good Price here. They have plenty of Fruit-Trees about theTown of all kinds, both of the hot and cold Climates; and have store of Wheat and otherEuropeanGrain, besidesIndianCorn. Thousands of Cattel of all sorts run wild in the Neighbourhood, and they furnishPeruwith 50000 Mulesper ann.In short, this place lies very convenient for Commerce in Silver and Gold, and the other Commodities ofPeruandChili, which theFrenchhave now begun to engross. They sent three Ships to those parts and theSouth-Sea, under M.de Beauchesne Gouin[110]ofSt. Maloin 1698, of whose Progress I shall give a further account from a Copy of his Journal, as I go on with my Description of the Coasts. Their Winter here is inMay,June, andJuly, when ’tis cold by night, but warm enough by day, the Frost never being violent, nor the Snow considerable in those parts.

FatherSepp,[111]who was here in 1691. tells us in his Voyage fromSpaintoParaquariaorParaguay, thatBuenos-Ayreshas only two Streets built crosswise; that there are four Convents, one of which belongs to the Jesuits; that their Houses and Churches are built of Clay, and not above one Story high; that the Jesuits have taught them of late to burn Lime, and make Tiles and Bricks, with which they now begin to build. The Castle is likewise of Clay, encompass’d with an earthen Wall and a deep Trench, and defended by 900Spaniards; tho in case of necessity above 30000IndianHorse might be arm’d out of the several Cantons, where they have been train’d by the Jesuits: But this boasting Account I can’t believe. They have in the Neighbourhood whole Woods of Peach, Almond, and Fig-Trees, which they propagate by putting the Kernels in the Ground: they grow so fast as to produce Fruit the first Year, and their Timber is us’d for Fewel. The adjacent Pastures are so fat and large, that many thousands of Beeves feed together; so that any one when he pleases goes into the Field, throws a Rope about their Horns, brings ’em home and kills ’em. They are very large, generally white, and being so numerous, are valu’d only for their Hides, Tallow, and Tongues; the rest being expos’d to the Birds and Beasts of Prey, which are very numerous, and frequently destroy the Calves. The Natives feed most on Beef half-raw without Bread or Salt, and in such quantities that they throwAccount of the River La Plata.themselves naked into cold Water, that they may retain the natural Heat within their Entrails to help Digestion; and sometimes they lie down with their Stomachs in hot Sand: but their Gluttony in devouring so much raw Flesh fills them so with Worms, that they seldom live till 50 Years old. There are such numbers of Partridges here, and so tame, that they knock them down with sticks as they walk in the fields. The Missionaries, who are absolute Masters of the Natives in the neighbouring Cantons ofParaguay, &c. suffer none of ’em to come nearerBuenos-Ayresthan two or three Leagues, on pretence that they would be corrupted by the ill Example of theSpaniards; and under that same pretence they won’t suffer theSpaniardsto settle in their Missions, which extend above 200 Leagues up the River; nor do they allow Merchants who trade thither to stay above a few days; the true cause of which is, they are not willing that the Laity should be privy to the Wealth they heap up there, in a Country which abounds with Gold, nor be Witnesses to their splendid, or rather luxurious way of living. Sometimes Complaints of this Procedure of the Jesuits have been made to theSpanishGovernours, but they find a way to bribe them to silence. This I was inform’d of by those who have been among them, and am confirm’d in it by FatherSepp: He does not dissemble that the Missionaries have a Despotical Power over the Natives, tho he gives it another Turn, and pretends that ’tis necessary in order to convert and force them to work. He says the Jesuits are Captains, teach them the Use of Arms, and how to draw up into Squadrons and Battallions; which he boasts they can do as well as theEuropeans. The Jesuits obtain’d this Power, on the specious Pretence of reducing thoseIndiansto the Obedience of theSpaniards, which they would not submit to till within these few Years. This Management is so much the more easily carry’d on, because the Ecclesiastical Government there is lodg’d in the hands of one Bishop only and three Canons; and the Missionaries being compos’d of all Nations, few of them have any natural Affection to theSpanish Government. This is the more to be observ’d, because the Jesuits being an intriguing Society, and generally in theFrenchInterest, it would seem to be the Concern of the Allies to recover the Trade of those Countries from the House ofBourbonwith all possible speed, left by making themselves Masters of the vast Treasures ofPeruandChili, they be enabled at last to compleattheir Design of an Universal Monarchy. FatherSeppsays, that Silver in 1691. was cheaper here than Iron; that for a Twopenny Knife one may have a Crown, for a Hat of two Shillings 10 or 12 Crowns, and for a Gun of ten or twelve Shillings 30 Crowns; that Provisions are so plenty here, that a fat Cow may be bought for the Value of 10d.or 12d.a good Ox for a few Needles, a stout Horse for about 2s.that he has seen two given for a Knife not worth 6d.and that he and his Company had 20 Horses for a few Trifles that did not cost them a Crown; being only a few Needles, Fish-Hooks, sorry Knives, Tobacco, and a little Bread. He mentions a Cataract in the RiverUruquay, which he says Providence has plac’d here for the advantage of the poorIndiansagainst the Avarice of theSpaniards; who not being able to go further with their Vessels, have been hitherto confin’d toBuenos-Ayres, and could not settle in those Cantons, tho very inviting, because of the vast Profit they might draw from them. This he reckons a great Happiness to the Natives, who being a simple People, would not only be soon infected with the Vices of theSpaniards, but enslav’d by ’em: for, says he, they make no difference betwixt Pagan and Christian Natives, but treat them promiscuously like Dogs. He adds, that this Province ofParaquariaorParaguayexceeds in bignessGermany,France,Italy, and theNetherlandsput together; (wherein I doubt he exceeds:) That they have no Cities, and are govern’d by 80 Colleges of Jesuits, in which there are no more than 160 Persons; and that these Colleges are from 100 to 600 Miles distant from one another. There’s one Plain of 200 Leagues long betwixtBuenos-AyresandCordubainTucuman, without so much as a Tree or Cottage, and yet it contains the best Pastures in the World, fill’d with Cattel of all sorts which have no Owners.

Account of the River La Plata.

He describes the Natives thus: The Men are not quite so tall asEuropeans, but have thick Legs and large Joints. Their Faces are round, flattish, and of an Olive Colour; and their Arms are Bows and Arrows. Some of the strongest have many Scars on their Bodies, occasion’d by Wounds which they gave themselves when young, that these Scars may be remaining Proofs of their Courage. Their Hair is black, long, and as strong as that of a Horse. The Women look more like Devils than rational Creatures, with their Hair loose over their Foreheads, and the rest twisted in Locks behind, which hang as low as their Hips. Their Faces are wrinkled, their Arms, Shoulders and Breasts naked; and their Ornaments are Fish-Bones made likeScales of Mother-of-Pearl about their Necks, Arms and Hands. The Wives of their Caciques or petty Princes wear a sort of Triple Crowns of Straw. The Caciques wear Doe-Skins hanging over their shoulders; the rest only a piece of a Skin wrap’d about their middle, and hanging down before to their knees. The Boys and Girls are quite naked. They have holes in their Ears and Chins, in which they put Fish-Bones, or a colour’d Feather tied by a thred, and Feathers of several colours fasten’d to a string round their Necks. They wrap their Infants as soon as born in a Tyger’s Skin, give them the Breast for a little while, and then half-raw Meat to suck. He says, the Men at the death of their nearest Relations cut off a Finger of their own left Hand; and if it be a handsom Daughter, they make a Feast and drink out of her Skull. They live in Straw Hutts without Roofs, and their Utensils are a few Sticks for Spits, and Pumpkins hollow’d out, in which they eat their Meats. Their Beds are the Hides of Oxen or Tygers, spread on the ground; but the Caciques, and those of Note, lie in a Net fasten’d to two Poles for Hammocks, at some distance from the ground, being a Security against wild Beasts and Serpents. Our Author says that he sent well-boil’d Meat to several of them when sick, which they receiv’d thankfully; but afterwards gave it to their Dogs, because they lik’d their own Cookery better.

It is now time to see how the Missionaries live among those Flocks over whom they assume the Pastoral Care. FatherSepptells us, that he and other new Missionaries were welcom’d by some of them with 20 Musicians in a Train, abundance of Boats equip’d like Galleys lin’d with Firelocks, and having Drums, Trumpets, and Hautboys on board. The Missionaries brought ’em Sweatmeats, and all sort of Fruit; and theIndiansdiverted them by wrestling in the Water, and Salvoes of their Fire-Arms,&c.They conducted them thro a green Triumphal Arch to the Church, where the Women were so earnest at their Devotion, that not one of them cast an eye upon our Father and his Companions: so that here were a Militant and a Triumphant Church both together. When the Devotion was over, the chief of theIndianswelcom’d the Father and the rest of the Missionaries, by a short but very pathetick Speech; and one of theIndianWomen did the like with wonderful Elegancy, says the Jesuit, who it seems is not against Women speaking in theChurch. That and the next day they spent in Mirth and Jollity, and in the Evening were diverted by four Dances; 1. By Boys, who danc’d with Pikes and Lances. 2. By a couple of Fencing-Masters. 3. By six Seamen. 4. By six Boys on horseback, who afterwards gave them a kind of Tournament, the place being illuminated by Ox-Horns fill’d with Suet, for they have no Oil nor Wax. OnWhitsunday, which happen’d soon after, the Missionaries went to Church, and return’d Thanks for so many Converts; as certainly they had reason, since they are such merry ones.

These Cantons, he says, are 26, and have but one or two Missionaries apiece, tho they contain from 3000 to 6000 People each, and sometimes more; so that they must either have too much work, or perform it very slightly, especially if they be so ignorant as our Father says, that if they be neglected one day, they scarce know how to make the Sign of the Cross the next: And besides all the Pastoral Work, the Missionaries must act the part of Clerks, and clean the Church-Ornaments and Plate; for these poor Wretches are uncapable of doing it. To be short, says he, the Missionary must be Cook, Nurse, Doctor, Architect, Gardiner, Weaver, Smith, Painter, Baker, Potter, Tile-maker, and every thing else that is necessary in a Commonwealth. This he supposes will appear incredible (and he’s certainly in the right) but he says ’tis the naked Truth; the Natives being so stupid, that unless he plainly shew hisIndianCook how much Salt he must put in each Pot, he would put all into one, tho ever so much; and he must see them wash the Vessels, unless he would be poison’d: yet this Father, for all his other hard work, must look after his Garden, Orchard, and Vineyard, where he has all sorts of Flowers, Herbs, Roots and Fruits, and so many Vines as produce 500 large Casks of Wine in a Year, if not prevented by multitudes of Pismires, Wasps, Birds, or by the North Winds, which sometimes make Wine so dear, that a Cask yields 20 or 30 Crowns; and after all, ’tis not to be preserv’d from turning sour without a great mixture of Lime. The chief Distemper of the Natives is the Worms before-mention’d, the bloody Flux [dysentery] and spotted Fever, which frequently carry off great numbers. The Medicines which the Missionaries give against Worms, is a Vomit of Tabacco-Leaves; and after that, sour Lemon-Juice with those of Mint and Rue put into Milk.

Account of the River La Plata.

These Cantons or Towns, he says, are generally upon an Ascent near the RiversUruguayandParaguay, and containyoung and old from 6000 to 8000 Souls. Each Canton has a Church and a square Market-place near it, the rest being divided into Streets of Clay-Hutts cover’d with Straw, only of late they begin to use Tiles. They have no Windows, Chimneys, or different Apartments; and over the Fire-place they hang their Beds at night. Their Doors are Ox-Hides; and since all lie together in one Room, with their Dogs, Cats,&c.the Missionaries are entertain’d with very ungrateful Scents, besides Smoke, when they go to visit them. He says, in the main they are very patient under Distempers, and the Death of Relations; that they seek after no Riches but a present Maintenance; that their young Women are marriageable at 14, and the Men at 16, when the Missionaries take care to match them, otherwise they will pair themselves. There are no Disputes here about Dowries, Jointures, or Marriage-Settlements; the Agreement consists only in two Articles,viz.The Woman promises to fetch what Water the Husband wants from the River, and he engages to provide the Kitchin with Fewel. The Missionaries furnish them with Hutts, the Wedding-Clothes and Dinner. The Wedding-Suit is five yards of coarse woollen Stuff for each, the Dinner is a fat Cow, and the Bed some Ox-hides. He presents them also with a little Salt and a few Loaves, and then they treat their Parents. The Women court here, come to the Missionary, and tell him they have a mind to such a Man, if he will give his Consent; which if he do, the Match is made, and the Missionary is both Priest and Father.

How mean soever the Natives live, the Priests have enough of Splendor and Plenty. Their Churches and Steeples are lofty, have four or five Bells apiece, most of ’em a couple of Organs, Altars, and Pulpits richly gilt, Images well painted, plenty of Silver Candlesticks, Chalices, and other Church-Plate; and the Ornaments of the Priests and Altars are as rich as inEurope. They teach the Natives to sing and play on all Musical Instruments both for Devotion and War; so that according to the Jesuits they go now more merrily to Heaven than formerly they did to Hell, and the good Fathers divert themselves with Sets of Musicians on the Banks of the Rivers and in charming Islands. Nor can we wonder that they live so merrily, since they fare so well; for besides all sorts of delicious Fruits and Preserves, they have plenty of Fowl, Fish, and Venison of all sorts, as well as ordinary Butchers Meat; only the Tygers, which are very numerous, frequently put in for a share with them, invade their Flocks and their Followers: but if you’ll believeour Father, they never attack the Clergy, they have such a Respect for their Cloth, and are so civil toEuropeans, that they’l charge theIndiansin their Company, and let them go scot-free; and the Serpents, which likewise abound here, are charm’d byAve Mary’sinto the like Good-Manners. The Priests use Honey for their Sallets, for they have no Oil, so that they are very hard put to it. They had Silver in such plenty, says the Father, that old Shoes and Hats were much more valuable. And as if the Missionaries had not Work enough otherwise, FatherSepptells us, the Natives when they kill their Cows bring ’em to the good Jesuits to allow each their share; and to be sure the Hides fall to the Missionaries, for he says the three Ships which brought him and his Companions fromSpain, carry’d back 300000 Ox-Hides, which they had for nothing, and each Hide he says would yield ’em six Crowns at home. A good Horse-shoe he says is here worth six Horses, and the Bit of a Bridle worth three. An Ell of Linen is worth four or five Crowns; for they have no Hemp or Flax, but store of Cotton: and one Sheep, Lamb or Kid, is for the sake of the Wool worth three Oxen or Cows. Tho the Natives, he says, are so dull that they can’t do the most frivolous thing without direction, yet they are so good at Imitation, that if you give them Models, they will make any thing very well. Thus he says theIndianWomen after ripping a piece of Bone-Lace with a Needle, will make one by the same pattern very exactly; and so the Men do Trumpets, Hautboys, Organs, or Watches; and copy Pictures, Printing and Writing to admiration.

Account of the River La Plata.

But they are so lazy that they must be forc’d to their work by blows, at the direction of the Missionaries, who tho they convert ’em themselves, make them cudgel one another. This they take very patiently, give no ill Language, but cryJesu Maria!and thank the good Fathers into the bargain for taking such care of ’em; so that they have learnt Passive-Obedience to perfection. But to make them amends, our Author says the Missionaries teach their young ones to dance as well as to sing in the Church, when they are habited in rich Apparel: so that they are extremely taken with the Ornaments of our Religion, says he, which raises in them a high Esteem and Affection; and indeed ’twould be a wonder if it should not. The Missionaries do now take care to instruct both Sexes in all necessary Employments, Reading,Writing,&c.They have also taught ’em to make Images, especially of our Lady ofOttingen; and very good reason, for if we believeSepp, she has done abundance of Miracles there. The Fathers wear Caps like a Bishop’s, and black Linen Cassocks when they go abroad; and instead of Canes use Crosses, which have a peculiar Virtue to knock Serpents o’ the head.

The Soil is so fruitful that it produces a hundred fold, tho sorrily manur’d. The Natives sow nothing butTurkyWheat, and scarce enough of that, they are so lazy: and are likewise such bad Husbands, that they would eat all at once, did not the Missionary force ’em to lay it up in his Barn, where he distributes it to ’em as they want, and so he does their Flesh. They have no Mills, but pround their Wheat in a Mortar, and make it into Cakes which they bake on Coals, or boil with their Meat. The Fathers have white Bread for themselves, which the Natives value so much, that they will give two or three Horses for a Loaf; and of these the Missionaries have good store, for they have always 40 or 50 Acres sow’d with Wheat for themselves: Land, Corn, Cattel, and every thing is theirs; so that they call all the People their Sons and Daughters, and perhaps there’s just cause enough to give many of ’em that Title. These Lords Proprietors assign every Family their number of Cows and Oxen to till their Ground, and to eat; tho one would think they might have enough for the taking, without asking any body’s leave: and yet our Father says he has been forc’d to chide his Parishioners for killing and eating their Oxen, and roasting them with their wooden Plows in the very Field while they were tilling the Ground; for which they pleaded in excuse that they and their Wives were hungry and weary: and yet there was no great reason for the latter, since their Plows, says our Author, don’t enter above three inches into the Ground. They need no Hay for their Cattel, since they go up to the knees in Grass all the year. This is the way of living in those Cantons, which the Missionaries call Reductions, because, if you’ll believe ’em, they have reduc’d them to Christianity by their Preaching, tho theSpaniardscould never do it by their Arms.

Our Linguist told me that the Road fromBuenos-AyrestoChiliis only passable in the Summer Months, when Commodities are purchas’d at that Town, and transported by Land toChili.

On that Road about 100 Leagues N. W. fromBuenos-Ayreslies the City ofCordoua, which is the See of a Bishop,has ten Churches, and an University. ’Twas founded in 1573. says F.Techo, by a Native ofCordouainOld Spain, when there were 60000 Archers reckon’d in its Territory, about 8000 of whom continu’d in subjection, but the others revolted. ’Tis now the Metropolis of the Province, and the Jesuits have a Chappel in their College there, which for Riches and Beauty may vie with the best inEurope. The Natives of this Country were very barbarous, made use of Sorcery to satisfy their Revenge, and of Philtres of their own Blood to gratify their Lust. Both Sexes daub’d their Faces with strange Colours, and each Village was govern’d by a Sorcerer, who pretended to be their Physician. To shew their Courage, they would draw Arrows thro the Skins of their Bellies, and they fought Duels with sharp Stones, standing foot to foot, and holding down their Heads to receive the Blows from one another by turns. He that struck first was reckon’d the most fearful: It was accounted disgraceful to dress their Wounds, and the Conqueror was applauded by hideous Shouts from the Spectators. ’Twas a long time before the Missionaries could reform those barbarous Customs.

Another Town on this Road isMendosa, where they make large quantities of Wine, Brandy, and Oil.

So much for that part of this vast Country which lies towardsChiliandBrazile: I shall next come to that part which lies towardsPeru, and particularly the Road toPotosiand the Mines.

Santa-Feis the nextSpanishSettlement of note toBuenos-Ayres, from which it lies 80 Leagues N W. at the mouth of a River which falls intoLa Plata. The Country betwixt this Town andBuenos-Ayresis fruitful, well inhabited bySpaniardsandIndians, and produces Wheat from forty to an hundred fold, and abounds with Cattel. The Town is encompass’d with a River, and built of Brick. Our Prisoners and Linguist told us that there are Mines of Gold and Silver in the Neighbourhood, but theSpaniardsdon’t care to open them, because the Conveniency of sailing up the River might encourage Enemies to invade and take them from ’em. This Town was built by theSpaniardswhen they first settled, for the Defence of this River.

Account of the River La Plata.

St. Jago de l’Istero200 Leagues N W. fromSanta-Fe, is a pretty Town govern’d by a Corregidore, has three Churches, and lies on the River that runs down toSanta-Fe. Hither the Plate is brought fromPotosion Mules, because the Roadsare bad; and from hence it is carry’d toBuenos-Ayresby Waggons. Next to this Town liesSt. Miquel de Toloman200 Leagues N W. ThenSalta150 Leagues. This Town contains six Churches. ThenOgui50 Leagues further, which has five Churches.

Potosiis next, lies N. of the Tropick ofCapricornabout S. Lat. 21. Long. 73. Our Linguist tells us the City is large, has ten Churches govern’d by an Arch-Priest. The Town stands at the bottom of that call’dthe Silver Hill, which is round like a Sugar-Loaf. There are 1500 or 2000Indiansconstantly at work in the Mines here; they have two Reals a day, and are paid every Sunday. The Mines are a hundred fathom deep, and the Silver is grown much scarcer of late. Provisions are scarce at this Town, and they have no Firing but Charcoal, which is brought from 30 to 50 Ls. distance. They have great Frosts and Snow here inMay,June, andJuly.Knivetin his Remarks says, in his time they were well supply’d here with all things from theSouth-Sea, and that the Natives in the adjoining Country traffick’d in Gold and precious Stones; and hundreds of ’em ply’d upon the Road to carry Passengers from Town to Town in Nets fasten’d to Canes, and supported by two or more Men; which was the easiest way of travelling, and they desir’d no other Reward but a Fish-Hook and a few Glass-Beads. They have also Sheep of an extraordinary Size, with large Tails, upon which they carry’d Jars of Oil and Wine. He says the rich Oar when taken out of these Mines looks like Black Lead, then they grind it by certain Engines, and wash it thro fine Sieves into pav’d Cisterns. They make theIndiansand other Slaves work quite naked in the Mines, that they mayn’t hide any thing.

The Curious who would know more of the Manners of the Natives, or the History and particular Product of this large Country, may find it inGemelli,[112]FatherSepp, and FatherTecho,[113]but this is enough for my purpose, to shew what a vast Field of Trade may be open’d here, and how dangerous it may prove to allEurope, if the House ofBourboncontinue possess’d of that Trade.

Some being of Opinion that ourSouth-SeaCompany may possess themselves, by virtue of the late Act, of the Riverdela Plata, as far up that River and Country as they please, either in the Provinces ofParaguayorTucuman; I shall give a further Description of those large Provinces, after taking notice that according to several of our DraughtsParaguaylies both on the E. and W. side of the RiverLa Plata; according to others, entirely on the E. side, andTucumanon the W. side. TheSansonsmakeParaguay720 miles from S. to N. and 480, where broadest, from E. to W. and place it betwixt S. Lat. 14 & 24. Long. 315 & 325. but the Breadth is not equal. FatherTechosays the RiverParaguay, which gives name to the Country, is one of the greatest inAmerica, receives several other large Rivers, runs 300 Leagues before it falls into theParana, about 200 from the Sea is navigable, and together with theParanaforms the RiverLa Plata. The wordParaguayin the Language of the Country signifies the Crown’d River, because the Inhabitants wear Crowns of Feathers of several beautiful Colours, which they have from the Birds that abound in that Country. I shall not insist upon the several Nations that inhabit it, among whom theGaraniansare the chief, and submitted first to theSpaniards; but growing weary of the Slavery they subjected them to, revolted, and were with much difficulty subdu’d after their Leaders were cut off, about 1539. The chief Discovery of this Country is owing toDominick Irala, who in the Reign of the EmperorCharlesV. was sent by the GovernourAlvar Nunez Cabeca de Vacawith 300 chosen Men, and went 250 Leagues up this River, to endeavour a Communication withPeru, but was oppos’d by some of the Natives, of whom 4000 were kill’d, and 3000 taken in a Battel. The Governour went afterwards on the Discovery himself, and sailing up the River, came to a delicious Island, which his Men call’dParadise, and would have settled there, but he dissuaded them, and advancing to the Borders ofPeru, found a large Town of 8000 Houses deserted by the Inhabitants, who were affrighted with the noise of theSpanishFire-Arms. ’Tis said they found in this Town a great Market-place, with a wooden Tower in form of a Pyramid built in the middle, and a monstrous Serpent kept in it by which the Devil pronounc’d Oracles: this Serpent they kill’d with their Fire-Arms. But a Difference happening betwixt the Officers and Soldiers about dividing the Booty, they return’d toAssumptionwithout pursuing the Discovery any further.

Account of the River La Plata.

This Province, till that ofTucumanwas taken from it, contain’d all the Country betwixtBrazileandPeru. Our Authoradds, that besides the Towns above-mention’d theSpaniardsbuilt hereCorienteson the Conflux of theParaguayandParana, which is but a small Town, no way suiting the Dignity of those two Rivers: That 100 Leagues up theParana, in the Province ofGuirana, theSpaniardsbuilt two little Towns call’dVillaricaandGuaira; that on the upper part of theParaguaythey builtXeresand anotherVillarica, to joinParaguayon that side to the further Provinces; and lastly, the City ofConceptionon the Marshes of the red River which falls intoParana, and was of great use to curb the fierce Nations in the Neighbourhood. He adds, that all these Towns were first planted by a Race of the noblest Families inSpain. He mentions an extraordinary Herb here call’dParaguayby the name of the Country; it grows in marshy Grounds, and the Leaves being dry’d and powder’d, and mix’d with warm Water, theSpaniardsand Natives drink it several times a day, which makes them vomit, and strengthens their Appetite. They look upon it as a sort of Catholicon, use it so much that they can’t live without it; and this Custom has so much overspread the neighbouring Provinces, that the Inhabitants will sell any thing to purchase it, tho the excessive Use of it occasions the same Distempers as the immoderate Use of Wine. They did so fatigue the Natives to gather and powder this Herb, that multitudes of ’em died; and this, with other slavish Employments, did much dis-people the Country. The Natives live mostly by Fishing, Hunting, and Shooting.

Account of the River La Plata.

Tucumanis 300 Leagues long, but varies much in breadth. ’Tis inhabited by four Nations: The furthest South have no fix’d Dwellings, live by Fishing and Hunting, and carry about Mats to serve them for Tents. The North People live in Marshes, and feed most on Fish. The Southern People are the tallest, but the Northern the fiercest; and many of them live in Caves, but those nearestPeruin Villages. They are all very slothful, and have store of Brass and Silver, but make little use of them. They have large Sheep which carry their Burdens, and their Wool is almost as fine as Silk. They have many Lions, not so large and fierce as those ofAfrica, but their Tygers are fiercer than those of other Countries. Their two chief Rivers areDulceandSalado, so call’d from the sweet and salt Taste of their Waters. They have multitudes of Springs and Lakes, some of which have a petrifying quality. The Country was formerly very populous, but their Numbers are much decreas’d since theSpaniardsplanted among them.They easily subdu’d this Country, which was govern’d by abundance of petty Princes continually at war with one another. This Province was first discover’d in 1530. by oneCæsara Soldier belonging toSebastian Cabot, and three more, at the time whenPizarrotookAtabalipathe GreatIngaofPeru. In 1540. the Viceroy ofPeru,Vaca de Castro, assign’d this Country toJohn Rojasas a Reward for his Services. He went thither with 200Spaniards, but was kill’d on the Frontiers by a poison’d Arrow, and his Men underFrancis Mendozamarch’d thro to the River of Plate.Mendozabeing kill’d as going up that River by Mutineers,John Nunez Pradawas sent hither by the ViceroyPeter Gasca, subdu’d theIndians, built the Town ofSt. Michelon the Banks of the RiverEscava, and settled Fryars there. This Province was afterwards subjected toChili; andFrancis d’Acquirebeing sent thither with 200Spaniards, destroy’dSt. Michel, and builtSt. Jago, now the Metropolis ofTucuman, on the RiverDulce, in S. Lat. 28. saysTecho, but others place it on the RiverSalado. ’Tis the same Town I have already describ’d. In 1558.Taritabeing made Governour of this Province, built the City ofLondonnear the Borders ofChili, about Lat. 29. calling it so out of compliment to Q.MaryofEngland, at that time marry’d toPhilipII. ofSpain. This Town serv’d to curb the Natives.Taritadid likewise rebuildSt. Michel, and reduc’d the Country so much, that 80000Indianswho submitted toSpainwere muster’d in the Territory ofSt. Jago. TheSpaniards, as was usual in those days, fighting with one another about the Command of the Provinces,Taritawas drove out in 1561. byCastaneda; so that most of the Natives revolted, till 1563. thatFrancis d’Acquirereduc’d ’em again, and builtEstecoabove-mention’d. But theSpaniardscontending afterwards with one another about the Government, many of their Settlements were destroy’d; so that inTecho’stime the chief Places remaining in this Country wereSt. Jago,Cordoua,St. Michel,SaltaorLerma,XuxuiorSt. Salvador,Rioja,EstecoorNuestra Señora de Talavera,London, and a few other small Garisons. He says that in this Country it does not rain in Winter, but in Summer they have thick Mists and Rains enough. The Jesuits are the chief Missionaries here, and settled in the principal Towns. He adds, that near the CityConception, which is ninety Leagues fromSt. Jago, the Natives were call’dFrontones, because they made the Fore-part of their Heads bald. Their Arms were a Club at their Girdle, Bows and Arrows, and Staves set with Jawbonesof Fishes. They went naked, and painted their Bodies to make them look terrible. They were continually at War among themselves about the Limits of their Land, and they fix’d the Bodies of their slain Enemies in Rows to the Trunks of Trees, that others might be afraid of invading their Borders.

He adds, that the Country aboutSt. Michaelis well peopled, abounds with Woods, and all sorts ofEuropeanand other Fruits, so that it was call’dThe Land of Promise; but they are much infested with Tygers, which the Natives kill with great dexterity.Guairaa Province ofParaguayis very hot, because for the most part under the Tropick ofCapricorn; is very fruitful, but subject to Fevers and other Diseases: yet when theSpaniardscame hither in 1550, they are said to have found 300000 People in this Country, but they say there’s scarce a fifth part of that number now; and the Natives very miserable, having no Meat but the Flesh of wild Beasts nor Bread but what they make of the RootMandiosa. There are Stones here which breed in an oval Stone-Case, about the bigness of a Man’s Head. Our Author says, they lie under ground, and when they come to maturity, break with a noise like Bombs, and scatter abundance of beautiful Stones of all colours; which at first theSpaniardstook to be of great Value, but did not find ’em so. The other remarkable Product of this Country is a Flower call’dGranadillo, which the Jesuit says represents the Instrument of our Saviour’s Passion, and produces a Fruit as big as a common Egg, the Inside of which is very delicious. 2. A Fruit call’dGuembe, which is very sweet, but has yellow Kernels, which if chew’d, occasions a sharp Pain in the Jaws. 3. Dates, of which they make Wine and Pottage. 4. Wild Swine which have their Navel on their backs, and if not cut off immediately when the Beast is kill’d, corrupts the whole Carcase. 5. Abundance of wild Bees, several sorts of which yield store of Honey and Wax. 6. Snakes which dart from the Trees, and twist themselves about Men or Beasts, and soon kill ’em if they be not immediately cut in pieces. 7.MacaquaBirds, so call’d because of an Herb which they eat as an Antidote when hurt by Snakes, which lie and watch for them in the Marshes. They frequently fight those Snakes, for which Nature has provided them with sharp Beaks for a Weapon, and strong Wings to serve them as a Buckler. Our Author mentions the RiverParanapan, which runs thro this Country, is almost as large as theParaguay, and falls into theParana.Its Banks on both sides are cover’d with tall Trees, especially Cedars, of so vast a Bulk that they make Canoes out of a single Trunk, which row with twenty Oars. The Jesuits built the Towns ofLorettoandSt Ignatius, and two more near the Conflux of this River and thePyrapus, about 1610, and eleven more have since been built in that Province, where they have brought over many of the Inhabitants to their Religion. They kill’d many of theSpaniardsat first, and then eat them. These Towns are plac’d by theSansonsabout Lat. 22. and betwixt Long. 325, and 330.


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