Chapter 2

"Mistake not, reader, I thee crave,This is an altar not a grave,Where fire raked up in ashes lyes,And hearts are made the sacrifice, &c.

"Mistake not, reader, I thee crave,

This is an altar not a grave,

Where fire raked up in ashes lyes,

And hearts are made the sacrifice, &c.

"Which two words, altar and sacrifice, 'tis said, did so provoke and kindle the zealots indignation, that they resolve to make the tomb itself a sacrifice: and with axes, poleaxes, and hammers, destroy and break down all that curious monument, save only two pilasters still remaining, which shew and testifie the elegancy of the rest of the work. Thus it hapned, that the good old knight who was a constant frequenter of Gods publick service, three times a day, outlived his own monument, and lived to see himself carried in effigie on a souldiers back, to the publick market-place, there to be sported withall, a crew of souldiers going before in procession, some with surplices, some with organ pipes, to make up the solemnity.

"When they had thus demolished the chief monuments, at length the very gravestones and marbles on the floor did not escape their sacrilegious hands. For where there was any thing on them of sculptures or inscriptions in brass, these they force and tear off. So that whereas there were many fair pieces of this kind before, as that of abbot William of Ramsey, whose large marble gravestone was plated over with brass, and several others the like, there is not any such now in all the church to be seen; though most of the inscriptions that were upon them are preserved in this book.

"One thing, indeed, I must needs clear the souldiers of, whichMercurius Rusticusupon misinformation charges them with, viz.:—That they took away the bell clappers and sold them, with the brass they plucked off from the tombs. The mistake was this: the neighbourhood being continually disturbed with the souldiers jangling and ringing the bells auker, as though there had been a scare-fire, (though there was no other, but what they themselves had made,) some of the inhabitants by night took away the clappers and hid them in the roof of the church, on purpose only to free their ears from that confused noise; which gave occasion to such as did not know it, to think the souldiers had stolen them away.

"Having thus done their work on the floor below, they are now at leasure to look up to the windows above, which would have entertained any persons else with great delight and satisfaction, but only such zealots as these, whose eyes were so dazzled, that they thought they saw popery in every picture and piece of painted glass.

"Now the windows of this church were very fair, and had much curiosity of workmanship in them, being adorned and beautified with several historical passages out of scripture, and ecclesiastical story; such were those in the body of the church, in the isles, in the new building, and elsewhere. But the cloister windows were most famed of all for their great art and pleasing variety. One side of the quadrangle containing the history of the Old Testament; another, that of the new; a third, a history from the first foundation of the Monastery of King Peada to the restoring of it by King Edgar; a fourth, all the kings of England downwards from the first Saxon king. All which notwithstanding were most shamefully broken and destroyed."

[But little remains to be seen of these famous cloisters beyond the mouldings of arches imposed in rough walls on each side. The five recesses in the south wall were partly the lavatories used by the Monks before entering the refectory by the richly cut door in the corner.]

"Every window had at the bottom the explanation of the history thus in verse:—

First Window.

Col. 1.

"King Penda, a paynim, as writing seyth,"'Gate yese five children of Christen feyth."

"King Penda, a paynim, as writing seyth,

"'Gate yese five children of Christen feyth."

Col. 2.

"The noble Peada, by God's grace,"Was the first founder of this place."

"The noble Peada, by God's grace,

"Was the first founder of this place."

Col. 3.

"By Queen Ermenyld, had King Wulfere,"These twey sons that ye see here."

"By Queen Ermenyld, had King Wulfere,

"These twey sons that ye see here."

Col. 4.

"Wulfade rideth, as he was wont,"Into the forest, the hart to hunt."

"Wulfade rideth, as he was wont,

"Into the forest, the hart to hunt."

Second Window.

Col. 1.

"Fro' all his men Wulfade is gone,"And 'suyth himself the hart alone."[21]

"Fro' all his men Wulfade is gone,

"And 'suyth himself the hart alone."[21]

Col. 2.

"The hart brought Wulfade to a well,"That was beside Seynt Chaddy's cell."

"The hart brought Wulfade to a well,

"That was beside Seynt Chaddy's cell."

Col. 3.

"Wulfade askyd of Seynt Chad,—"Where is the hart that me hath lad."

"Wulfade askyd of Seynt Chad,—

"Where is the hart that me hath lad."

Col. 4.

"The hart that hither thee hath brought,"Is sent by Christ, that thee hath bought."

"The hart that hither thee hath brought,

"Is sent by Christ, that thee hath bought."

Third Window.

Col. 1.

"Wulfade prayd Chad, that ghostly leech,"The feyth of Christ him for to teach."

"Wulfade prayd Chad, that ghostly leech,

"The feyth of Christ him for to teach."

Col. 2.

"Seynt Chad teacheth Wulfade the feyth,"And words of baptism over him he seyth."

"Seynt Chad teacheth Wulfade the feyth,

"And words of baptism over him he seyth."

Col. 3.

"Seynt Chad devoutly to mass him dight,"And hoseled Wulfade Christy's knight."

"Seynt Chad devoutly to mass him dight,

"And hoseled Wulfade Christy's knight."

Col. 4.

"Wulfade wished Seynt Chad, that day,"For his brother Rufine to pray."

"Wulfade wished Seynt Chad, that day,

"For his brother Rufine to pray."

Fourth Window.

Col. 1.

"Wulfade told his brother Rufine"That he was christned by Chaddy's doctrine."

"Wulfade told his brother Rufine

"That he was christned by Chaddy's doctrine."

Col. 2.

"Rufine to Wulfade said again,—"Christned also would I be fain."

"Rufine to Wulfade said again,—

"Christned also would I be fain."

Col. 3.

"Wulfade, Rufine to Seynt Chad leadeth,"And Chad with love of feyth him feedeth."

"Wulfade, Rufine to Seynt Chad leadeth,

"And Chad with love of feyth him feedeth."

Col. 4.

"Rufine is christned, of Seynt Chaddys,"And Wulfade, his brother, his godfather is."

"Rufine is christned, of Seynt Chaddys,

"And Wulfade, his brother, his godfather is."

Fifth Window.

Col. 1.

"Werbode, steward to King Wulfere,"Told that his sons christned were."

"Werbode, steward to King Wulfere,

"Told that his sons christned were."

Col. 2.

"Towards the chappel Wulfere 'gan goe,"By guiding of Werbode, Christy's foe."

"Towards the chappel Wulfere 'gan goe,

"By guiding of Werbode, Christy's foe."

Col. 3.

"Into the chappel entred the King,"And found his sons worshipping."

"Into the chappel entred the King,

"And found his sons worshipping."

Col. 4.

"Wulfere in woodness his sword out drew,"And both his sons anon he slew."[22]

"Wulfere in woodness his sword out drew,

"And both his sons anon he slew."[22]

Sixth Window.

Col. 1.

"King Wulfere, with Werbode yoo,"Burying gave his sons two."

"King Wulfere, with Werbode yoo,

"Burying gave his sons two."

Col. 2.

"Werbode for vengeance his own flesh tare,"The devil him strangled, and to hell bare."

"Werbode for vengeance his own flesh tare,

"The devil him strangled, and to hell bare."

Col. 3.

"Wulfere, for sorrow, anon was sick,"In bed he lay, a dead man like."

"Wulfere, for sorrow, anon was sick,

"In bed he lay, a dead man like."

Col. 4.

"Seynt Ermenyld, that blessed Queen,"Counselled Wulfere to shrive him clean."

"Seynt Ermenyld, that blessed Queen,

"Counselled Wulfere to shrive him clean."

Seventh Window.

Col. 1.

"Wulfere contrite, hyed him to Chad,"As Ermenyld him counselled had"[23]

"Wulfere contrite, hyed him to Chad,

"As Ermenyld him counselled had"[23]

Col. 2.

"Chad bade Wulfere, for his sin,"Abbeys to build his realm within."

"Chad bade Wulfere, for his sin,

"Abbeys to build his realm within."

Col. 3.

"Wulfere in haste performed than,"Brough that Peada his brother began."

"Wulfere in haste performed than,

"Brough that Peada his brother began."

Col. 4.

"Wulfere endued with high devotion,"The abbey of Brough with great possession."

"Wulfere endued with high devotion,

"The abbey of Brough with great possession."

Eighth Window.

Col. 1.

"The third brother, King Ethelred,"Confirmed both his brethren's deed."

"The third brother, King Ethelred,

"Confirmed both his brethren's deed."

Col. 2.

"Saxulf, that here first abbot was,"For Ankery's, at Thorney, made a place."

"Saxulf, that here first abbot was,

"For Ankery's, at Thorney, made a place."

Col. 3.

"After came Danes, and Brough brent,"And slew the Monkys as they went."

"After came Danes, and Brough brent,

"And slew the Monkys as they went."

Col. 4.

"Fourscore years and sixteen,"Stood Brough destroyed by Danes teen."

"Fourscore years and sixteen,

"Stood Brough destroyed by Danes teen."

Ninth Window.

Col. 1.

"Seynt Athelwold was bidden by God's lore,"The abbey of Brough again to restore."

"Seynt Athelwold was bidden by God's lore,

"The abbey of Brough again to restore."

Col. 2.

"Seynt Athelwold to King Edgar went,"And prayed him to help him in his intent."

"Seynt Athelwold to King Edgar went,

"And prayed him to help him in his intent."

Col. 3.

"Edgar bade Athelwold the work begin,"And him to help he would not lyn."

"Edgar bade Athelwold the work begin,

"And him to help he would not lyn."

Col. 4.

"Thus Edgar and Athelwold restored this place,"God save it and keep it for his grace."[24]

"Thus Edgar and Athelwold restored this place,

"God save it and keep it for his grace."[24]

"But to proceed, notwithstanding all the art and curiosity of workmanship these windows did afford, yet nothing of all this could oblige the reforming rabble, but they deface and break them all in pieces, in the church and in the cloyster, and left nothing undemolisht, where either any picture or painted glass did appear; excepting only part of the great west window in the body of the church, which still remains entire, being too high for them, and out of their reach. Yea, to encourage them the more in this trade of breaking and battering windows down, Cromwell himself, (as 'twas reported,) espying a little crucifix in a window aloft, which none, perhaps, before had scarce observed, gets a ladder, and breaks it down zealously with his own hand.

"But before I conclude the narrative, I must not forget to tell, how they likwise broke open the chapterhouse, ransack'd the records, broke the seals, tore the writings in pieces, specially such as had great seals annexed unto them, which they took or mistook rather for the popes bulls. So that a grave and sober person coming into the room at the time, finds the floor all strewed and covered over with torn papers, parchments and broken seals; and being astonisht at this sight, does thus expostulate with them. Gentlemen, (says he,) what are ye doing? they answered, we are pulling and tearing the popes bulls in pieces. He replies, ye are much mistaken: for these writings are neither the popes bulls, nor any thing relating to him. But they are the evidences of several mens estates, and in destroying these, you will destroy and undo many. With these they were something perswaded, and prevailed upon by the same person, to permit him to carry away all that were left undefaced, by which means, the writings the church hath now came to be preserved.

"Such was the souldiers carriage and behaviour all the time during their stay at Peterburgh, which was a fortnights space: They went to church duly, but it was only to do mischief, to break and batter the windows and any carved work that was yet remaining, or to pull down crosses wheresoever they could find them; which the first founders did not set up with so much zeal, as these last confounders pulled them down.

"Thus, in a short time, a fair and goodly structure was quite stript of all its ornamental beauty, and made a ruthful spectacle, a very chaos of desolation and confusion, nothing scarce remaining but only bare walls, broken seats, and shatter'd windows on every side.

"And in the time of this publick confusion, two other things hapned not unworthy of relating: the one for the strangeness, the other for the sadness of the accident. The first was this, when now the church lay open to all comers, without locks and bars, and none to look after them, those specially that lead up to the leads above; two young children not above five years old, had got up the steeple by themselves, and having lost their way down, come to the place where the great bells hang. Here there was a large round space left purposely in the arch, when first built, for the drawing up bells or any other things, as there should be occasion. This place used to be safely closed before, but now it lay wide open, and was between thirty and forty yards off from the ground. The two children, coming hither and finding this passage, one, out of his childish simplicity, was for jumping down: No, (saies the other) let us rather swarm down, there being a bell rope then hanging down through that place to the clockhouse below. Now, this last they did, and a gentleman walking there beneath at that time, sees two children come with that swiftness down the rope, like arrows from a bow, who were both taken up for dead, on the place. This hapned on a Sunday ith' afternoon, in sermon time. The news coming into the parish church, that two children falling off from the minster were slain, the congregation were exceedingly disorder'd, so that the preacher could not go on for a time, every parent fearing it might be their own childrens case; till at length they understood the truth and certainty of all. For it pleased God by a strange and wonderful providence to preserve both these children, having no hurt but only their hands galled by the rope, and their feet a little stunted by the fall from the clock-house, where they were thrown off, the rope being fastened there, and this some four or five yards high. The persons, I suppose, are both living still; and one of them, (whose father was then one of the chief tradesmen of the town) since a grave minister, and rector of a parish in Northamptonshire.

"The other thing that hapned of more fatal consequences was this:—it being that time of the year when young lads are busie in rifling jackdaws nests to get their young, a scholar of the free-school, a son to a parliament officer, was got upon the top of the minster about this employment; who going along the cieling in the body of the church, and treading unwarily on some rotten boards, fell down from thence, upon the loft where the organ now stands, having his pockets filled with those inauspicious birds, and with the fall from so great a height, was slain outright and never stirred more.

"These two things hapned much about the same time, and in the time of that publick confusion and disorder. But to proceed in our intended narrative. These things I have related before were indeed the acts of private persons only, men of wild intemperate zeal, and who had no commission for what they did, but what was owing to the swords by their sides. Yet notwithstanding all these things seemed afterwards to be own'd and approved by the powers then in being, when they sold all the churches lands, and many fair buildings adjoyning to the minster, were likewise pulled down and sold by publick order and authority, such were the cloysters, the old chapter-house, the library, the bishops hall and chapel at the end of it: the hall was as fair a room as most in England; and another call'd the green chamber, not much inferior to it. These all were then pull'd down and destroyed; and the materials, lead, timber, and stone exposed to sale, for any that would buy them. But some of the bargains proved not very prosperous; the lead especially that came off the palace, was as fatal as the gold of Tholouse; for to my knowledge, the merchant that bought it, lost it all, and the ship which carried it, in her voyage to Holland.

"And thus the church continued ruined and desolate, and without all divine offices for a time; till at length by the favour of a great person in the neighbourhood, it was repaired and restored to some degrees of decency again; and out of the ashes of a late cathedral, grew up into a new parochial church, in which way it was employ'd and used ever after, untill the kings happy restauration. For Mr. Oliver St. John, chief justice then of the common pleas, being sent on an embassy into Holland by the powers that governed then, requested this boon of them at his return, that they would give him the ruin'd church or minster at Peterburgh; this they did accordingly, and he gave it to the town of Peterburgh for their use, to be employ'd as a parochial church, their own parish church being then very ruinous and gone to decay.

"Now the town considering the largeness of the building, and the greatness of the charge to repair it, which of themselves they were not able to defray, they all agree to pull down the ladies chapel as it was then called, an additional building to the north side of the minster, (being then ruinous and ready to fall) and to expose the materials thereof, lead, timber, and stone to sale, and to convert the mony that was made of them, towards the repairs of the great fabrick.

"All this they did, and appointed certain persons to oversee the work, and expended several summs thus in repairs, mending the leads, securing the roof, glazing several windows, and then fitting up the quire, and making it pretty decent for the congregation to meet in. And this they did, by taking the painted boards that came off from the roof of the ladies chapel, and placing them all along at the back of the quire, in such manner as they continue to this day.

"When the place was thus fitted up, and the devastations which the souldiers had made in some measure repaired, one Mr. Samuel Wilson, school master of the charter-house, in London, was sent down by the committee of plundred ministers, as they were then called, to be preacher, with a sallary of 160l.per an. in which employment he continued untill the kings return. Then Dr. Cofin, the antient dean of the church, after almost twenty years exile in France, return'd and re-assumed his right again, in the year 1660, about the end of July. He then after so long an interval renew'd the antient usage, and read divine service first himself, and caused it to be read every day afterward, according to the laudable use and custome, and settled the church and quire in that order wherein it now continues.

"But though the church was thus delivered from public robbers and spoilers, yet it was not safe from the injuries of private hands. For some ten or twelve years after, certain thieves in the dead of the night, broke into the church and stole away all the plate they could find, viz.: a fair silver bason gilt, and the virgers two silver rods, and a linnen table-cloth to wrap them in, which were never heard of to this day. This was the same bason that had been plunder'd by the souldiers, and recovered again, but irrecoverably lost now. Yet both these losses were soon repaired, one by Dr. Henshaw, bishop then of the place, who gave a fair new silver basin gilt; the other made up by Dr. Duport, then dean, who furnisht the virgers again with the ensigns of their office, by buying two new silver maces for the churches use.

"And thus is this history brought down at length within our own knowledge and remembrance; where we have seen what various fortunes this antient church has had, which now reckons at least one thousand years from its first foundation. It has been often ruinated, and as often re-edified. Once it was destroyed by Danes; twice consumed by fire; it escaped the general downfal of abbies, in Hen. the Eighth's time, though not without the loss of some of her fairest manners; and yet what that king took away in revenues, he added to it in dignity, by converting it from an abbey into a cathedral church. But the worst mischief that ever befel it, was that in the late rebellious times, when the church itself was miserably defaced and spoiled; and all the lands for the maintenance thereof, quite alienated and sold. And yet through Gods especial goodness and favour, we have lived to see the one repaired, the others restored, and the church itself recovering her antient beauty and lustre again. And that it may thus long continue, flourish and prosper, and be a nursery for vertue, a seminary for true religion and piety, a constant preserver of Gods publick worship and service, and free from all sacrilegious hands, is the earnest and hearty prayer wherewith I shall conclude this discourse."

CHAPTER IV.

Historical account of the building of the monastery, and description of the architectural peculiarities of the present cathedral.

Having in the preceding chapters given a brief history of the former monastery and present cathedral of Peterborough, up to the present time, it now remains for us to say something of its architectural peculiarities, and to notice some of the remarkable relicts of antiquity which are still to be found within its walls. It has already been stated, that in the year 655, the foundation for a monastic institution was laid atMedeshamstede; that it was completed seven years afterwards;—and was destroyed by fire in 870. The architectural character of the building at this period cannot be strictly ascertained; but, from the accounts given of it by monkish writers, it is supposed to have been of the pure Saxon style. The monastery was again re-built in 966, and again destroyed by the lawless hands of barbarian invaders. Five successive times did it undergo various changes of ruin and desolation, until the year 1117, when a new building was raised upon the foundations of the old one, and many additions were made to it;—extending its circuit, and improving its architectural appearance.

The immense stones which were laid as the foundation of the minster ofMedeshamstede, is a sufficient proof of the vastness and massive strength of the building which was raised upon it;[25]—yet, as we have no definite information respecting the size of the monastery, we must leave it to be imagined by the reader, and proceed with the "new church," which was commenced in 1117, under the rule of John de Sais, and which we have already noticed in the first chapter of our history.

This John was a Norman by birth, and an admirer of the Norman style of architecture, which is discernable throughout the whole of this great building. That there is a mixture of style, however, in the monastery, is admitted on all hands;—nor could it well have been otherwise, if we take into consideration the different character of the ages in which additions were made to it. Still the leading features of the building clearly show that they are of Norman origin; and in this opinion we are supported by Mr. Britton, who says, "I cannot consent to discontinue this phrase, [viz. that the cathedral is a specimen of Norman architecture,] although it offends certain critics, who manifest more prejudice than discrimination in their reprobatory animadversion. That the Normans not only employed a peculiar style and character in the buildings of their own provence, and in England, after they possessed this country, is sufficiently proved by history, by the older edifices still remaining, and by the admission of the best informed antiquaries. It seems to me therefore absurd, as well as false, to say there is no Norman architecture—that the term is misapplied,—that the Normans were incompetent either to invent a novelty in art, or improve upon any thing of their Saxon predecessors. The instance of the building before us, which is said by its monastic historians to have been raised between the years 1117 and 1250, is sufficient evidence to confute the reasoning, or rather dogmatic assertions, of those who wish to exalt the Saxons by depreciating the Normans: and we have a still stronger confutation of this theory in the style and general character of the Trinity chapel, Canterbury, the history of which is well authenticated and generally credited. That it is a novelty and great beauty in architecture can only be disputed by those who are blinded by prejudice, or influenced by obstinacy and bad taste."[26]

During the prelacy of Bishop Marsh, 1819-1839, great efforts were made to restore the cathedral to its original beauty, under the auspices of Dr. Monk, then Dean of Peterborough, and afterwards Bishop of Gloucester. "By him the noble west front, which he found in a very ruinous state, was perfectly restored from top to bottom; six-and-thirty windows were opened in various parts of the church, which were built up, and two Norman doors were brought to light, which had been hidden under mean depressed arches."

It may, perhaps, be desirable to describe the different portions of the building in the order in which they present themselves to the visitor, and in doing this, we shall avail ourselves of the excellent remarks made by the Rev. Owen Davys, son of bishop Davys, in his work on the cathedral, and also of the superior talent of a gentleman, formerly well known in this city, (the Rev. T. Garbett,) who has investigated, with great care, the whole plan of the building, and has laid the result of his researches before the public.

Western Gateway.

First, then, is the ancient western gateway, built by Benedict, and though it has since been much altered, a considerable part of the original structure remains: "The western side has been faced with Perpendicular work, and an arch of that character has been built in front of the original Norman arch, above which is a very elegant arcade, the alternate arches of which have small windows within them; these light the chamber over the gateway which occupies the situation of the chapel of St. Nicholas. The lower roof of this gateway is a good specimen of a plain Norman roof, being groined with bold cross ribs. The arcades on the right and left hand, which have lately been very judiciously restored, are also worthy of notice; one of the arches in each arcade is considerably larger than the others, and forms a door-way. Above the arch, on the east side of this gateway, is a window which may strike the architect at first sight as being somewhat peculiar. It is in reality a part of an ancient Perpendicular shrine, which formerly existed in the cathedral, of which a portion is still standing in the northern part of the new building; it was brought there, and turned to its present use as a window, some time ago."

Thomas à Becket's Chapel.

On the left hand, as we pass through the gate, is the grammar school-room, formerly the chapel of Thomas à Becket, who was assassinated at Canterbury, and canonized by the catholics as a saint and a martyr. "The chancel of this building is of a very Late Decorated character, in fact so late as almost to come under the denomination of Transition from that style to Perpendicular; it has, on the south side, two windows, each of three lights, which appear, at first sight, to be Decorated, but, upon further examination, the architectural student will perceive, by a tendency to right lines in the tracery, that they are of Transition character, of which they form good examples. The east window of this chancel is a very good one, it is of five lights, and the tracery is very beautiful, though of a description not at all uncommon; in fact most of the Decorated windows in parish churches throughout Northamptonshire, which have any pretensions to size or beauty, have their tracery of this form, as, for instance, the east window of Higham Ferrers church, and many others. Above this window is an elegant pierced cross, probably of the same date as the window itself. The parapet of this chancel has nothing worthy of notice about it; it is like the rest of the building, of plain Late Decorated character."

Palace Gateway.

On the right of us, is the magnificent gateway which leads to the bishop's palace, over which is a chamber, called the knights' chamber. "This gateway is of somewhat peculiar Early English character, having a fine groined roof, springing from very beautiful clustered shafts. A line of arches, each of which contain within them two smaller arches, continues along either side of the interior; which is entered on the north and south sides, through fine and lofty arches supported by clustered columns. The bases of all these columns, like those of many others about the remains of this abbey, are covered with soil which the lapse of years has caused to accumulate around them; this of course much diminishes the height of each shaft. This beautiful gateway is flanked at its angles by square turrets, each ornamented, as also is the apex of the gable, with a fine niche, which has within it a figure of an unusually large size. The niches on the south side, contain the figures of St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. Andrew; those on the north, contain the representations of King Edward II., Abbot Godfrey de Croyland, and the Prior of the Abbey of that time, in full Benedictine costume.

West Front.

"The splendid front of the building is the most interesting and important of its members. This beautiful and original composition cannot fail to strike the mind of the beholder with awe and admiration; the first sight of it usually makes an impression on the memory which is not easily obliterated. It is indeed one of the finest specimens which the universe can produce, of the Pointed style of architecture. As a west front, scarcely any in this kingdom can be brought into comparison with it for beauty of proportion, and elegance of design. The west fronts of the cathedrals of Wells, York, and Lichfield have been mentioned as surpassing it in some respects; and in point of richness of detail, the two first may be perhaps considered as superior to it; but they all of them fall far short of Peterborough in the grandeur of their general effect.

"The outline of this front forms a regular square of 156 feet, that being the height of the side spires, and also the extreme width of the building. Its plan consists of three lofty arches of the same height, of which that in the middle is considerably the narrowest, the two side ones being of equal dimensions. These rest on triangular piers faced with shafts. At either extremity of this arcade are two lofty turrets, flanked at the angles by clustered columns, instead of buttresses, which run the whole height of the turrets. These turrets connect the arcade with the western wall of the church, from which it is distant fifteen feet, which gives the appearance of great depth and beauty to the arches." [Davys' Guide.]

"There was, perhaps little or no interval between the completion of the nave in the Circular style of architecture, and the erection of the north-west tower, in the Lancet, or first style of the Pointed. The original plan of the front, like that of Lincoln, comprised, no doubt, two towers rising at the western extremity of the side aisles of the nave, having a Norman base with circular lights, and an additional transept, projecting north and south beyond the line of the side aisles. But before this design could be carried into execution, architecture itself had undergone a change; pointed arches were substituted for circular ones, and slender isolated columns for the clustered shaft, or solid cylinder. Hence the difference in style of the tower just referred to: the string moulding at the base of it, together with the superstructure, and the pinnacles and pediment which surmount the adjacent transept, being all of a later order than the work of the nave: and hence also the union of both styles in the transept itself—its lofty arches, parallel to the side walls, being highly pointed, but with the zigzag ornament, and resting on Norman shafts; and the doorways of the front having circular heads, in accommodation to the arches of the nave, but with pointed mouldings and pillars.

"The tower, towards the south, appears never to have been finished, although unquestionably included in the architect's design. The present base, above the transept, is of a comparatively modern date, and altogether inferior to the work of the north-west tower. In the progress of great undertakings it not unfrequently happens that fresh objects present themselves to the mind, which at first were not thought of. Such appears to have been the case in respect of this cathedral, the architect of which, while completing the front, seems to have caught a new idea—that of erecting two lofty turrets beyond the outer angles of the transept, towards the west, and of converting the intermediate space into a sort of piazza, by arches constructed in front of the nave and closed in above by a vaulted roof. This idea so unique and at the same time so splendid, he was enabled to realize: and posterity, at the distance of six centuries, beholds with ineffable delight and admiration, a composition, the outlines and details of which, for their beauty and variety, render it one of the noblest facades in existence. Towards the north and south are two lofty turrets, flanked at the angles by clustered shafts, rising from a projecting base and crowned with spires, the height of which from the ground, makes a square with the breadth of the front. The space between these turrets is occupied by three pointed arches, reaching the whole height of the upper walls of the nave, and resting on triangular piers, which are faced with clustered shafts like those of the turrets, and terminate in octangular pinnacles, resting each upon a square basement, and divided by a moulding into two stages, the upper one of which is perforated with narrow lights, edged with the dog-toothed quatrefoil. The sides of the pier are lined with isolated columns in channelled recesses, each column sustaining a ribbed moulding of the arch above, and the whole series being finished with interlaced and foliated capitals.

"The centre arch is narrower than the outer ones, the reason of which will appear when we look at the situation of the doorways opening into the side aisles of the nave. Had the architect designed the three arches of equal breadth, the piers which sustain the centre arch must have stood immediately in front of these door-ways, or the outer arches must have been so contracted as to bring the turrets within the line of the transept, and thereby conceal, in part at least, the towers behind.

"This circumstance of itself shows that the turrets, piers, and arches, as they now exist, formed no part of the original plan. The interstices between the pillars which sustain the centre arch differ from those of the outer arches, in that they are chequered at regular distances with clumps of foliage, as if exuberance of ornament were designed to compensate for inequality in other respects. This inequality has been still further obviated by the erection of a porch, which, after a minute inspection, appears to have been inserted by way of support to the central piers, both of which had previously swerved from the perpendicular, as may still be seen. Over each arch rises a lofty pediment, bounded by the wave and billet ornaments, and surmounted by a perforated cross. The spandrils formed by the base of the pediment and the arches beneath, severally contain, first, a deeply recessed quatrefoil, above this two trefoil arches, and still higher two pointed arches, resting on slender pillars, and filled with statues,—and also a hexagon, the featherings of which clasp a human head.

"The pediments contain each a large circular light, with other apertures and niches. The circle of the central pediment is divided by mullions into eight lights, under trefoil arches radiating from an orb. Those on the sides are divided into six lights, the featherings of which are very beautiful. The mullions, or radii, are all faced with small pillars and capitals, and lined with the dog-toothed quatrefoil. The outer moulding of the central circle is composed of closely compacted trefoils, that of the others has the wave ornament. At the base of each circle is a series of trefoil arches, rested on isolated columns, four of which admit light into an apartment above the vaulting, and three contain statues. The intermediate spaces formed by the circle and the pediment, contain two niches, one on each side and another above, all filled with statues. The niche in the apex of the central pediment contains a statue, apparently of St. Peter, to whom the church is dedicated, representing the apostle with the mitre, pall, keys, and other insignia of the bishop of Rome.

"The turrets, before mentioned, are divided by the round moulding and string courses into six stages, which are empannelled in front with arches of different forms and dimensions. In the first stage from the ground, and rising from a channelled base, are two lofty pointed arches resting on slender pillars. In the second stage are four trefoil arches similarly supported; this range is continued round the facings of the inner wall immediately over the doorways, and forms the base of the windows. The third stage contains one pointed arch, intersected by a pillar in the centre, with curved mouldings, forming two lesser arches; which last are again subdivided by pillars sustaining one circular arch in the centre, and segments of arches on the sides.

"The interstices above contain two trefoil arches, with brackets at the base for the figures. The mouldings of the outer arch, with the sides of the pillars and all the sub-divisions, are studded with the dog-toothed quatrefoil. In the fourth stage, are two deeply recessed pointed arches, resting on clustered pillars; immediately over these is a string course of stemmated trefoils, which is continued round the front, the transepts, and the base of the north-west tower, together with the more modern base towards the south. In the fifth stage are four trefoil arches, like those of the second stage: these lie parallel with those at the base of the pediments, already described, and with those also of the side transepts. The sixth stage contains four long and narrow pointed arches, having corbels in the space above, and resting, like the whole series of arches below, on slender isolated columns, with prominent foliated capitals: above these is a string course of rosettes, forming the base of the parapet. Thus far the two turrets are strictly uniform; but in the parapets, by which they are surmounted, and in the pinnacles, which terminate the clustered shafts, there is a marked difference.

"The parapet of the north turret consists of the wave ornament, with double featherings and intersections: the pinnacles at the angles are hexagonal, corbelled at the base of the pyramid with human heads, and finished above with crockets and finials.

"The parapet of the south turret contains a series of quatrefoils, while the pinnacles at the angles are beautifully blended with the clustered shafts, so as to form a regular and continuous course and termination; the mouldings are carried up in high pointed pediments, and from these a cinquefoil arch at each angle, surmounted also by a pediment, with a quatrefoil in the spandril, connects them with the spire in the centre, and sustains a lofty triangular pinnacle, which, like the pediments below, is decorated with crockets and a finial. In this respect the south spire differs from the other, which has no connection with the side pinnacles. Both are pierced with pointed windows in two ranges, four in each range, divided by mullions, and crowned with crocketted pediments; and the apex of each is terminated by a finial and a cross, included in the extensive repairs carried on by the present dean[27]and chapter.

"The style of these spires, with the parapets and pinnacles, marks them out as a later work than the turrets beneath; and we may infer from the similarity of their details to those of the porch, that they formed a part of the repairs and alterations which the whole front appears to have undergone when the appendage was inserted; and when the central window of the nave was enlarged, and that, and the others which now enliven the inner wall, were filled with perpendicular tracery. The porch is vaulted with stone, and is entered by an obtuse arch, over which is an elliptical window, divided by mullions into six lights under cinquefoil arches, which are again subdivided in the head into lesser arches.

"The spandrils formed by the curve of the arch, and the base of the window, are enriched with circles, clasping shields of arms, and rosettes with other devices. The arches and windows are bounded by buttresses, which are broken by offsets and empannelled with niches. Besides these, the porch is flanked with staircases, one on each side, forming three parts of an octagon, and leading to an apartment now used as a library. The summit is closed with an embattled parapet, having a pediment at each end, and one in the centre. The surface of the walls is enriched with canopied niches, pilasters, brackets, panel work, and string courses in all the wildness and profusion which distinguish the last stage of gothic architecture.

"Besides the arch before mentioned, the porch has two smaller arches, north and south, parallel with the piazza formed by the great arches and piers of the front, and keeping up the communication with its opposite extremities. Over these also are mullioned windows with blank interstices.

"The great window of the nave, the outer arch of which is obviously an alteration from the original design, is divided by mullions into five lights,—those of the side aisles into three lights, both under cinquefoil arches, and the lancet windows of the transepts into two lights, under trefoil arches: these windows are parted, each by an embattled transome into an upper and lower range of lights, and the heads filled with subordinate tracery.

"The door-ways beneath are exceedingly rich, and in point of execution and delicacy of detail perhaps the finest portions of the front. The central door-way is divided by a pillar, rising from a carved cylindrical base into two smaller arches; but the whole design and finish cannot be made out, in consequence of the introduction of the porch, the foundation and butments of which are built against it.

"The arches of the side door-ways are lined with isolated columns, receding in the manner of perspective; the ribbed mouldings between these columns, the interlaced and pendent foliage of the capitals, and the multiplied mouldings of which the arches above are composed, cannot be too closely examined, or too much admired. This is that peculiar style of gothic architecture, in which the beauty of the pointed arch, with its accompaniments is best discerned; and, therefore, it is that judges are wont to give it the preference over all subsequent alterations and refinements. The spaces between these door-ways, like those of the windows over them, are empannelled with pointed arches, subdivided by smaller arches, and resting on slender pillars.

"From the description thus given of this stately front, the reader will perceive that it was begun in one age, and finished, as we now behold it, in another. Some discrepancies of style may therefore be expected to present themselves, but these are so eclipsed by the grandeur in its leading features, that the eye takes in the whole as a single conception, and overlooks, in its contemplation of such a magnificent association of objects, the marks of difference that exist between the efforts of earlier and later genius."[28]—The Purbeck pillar, which divides the greater arch of the West door into two lesser arches, has a curiously sculptured base, apparently representing a sinner being tormented by devils.

Gateway and Deanery.

As we cross the square to the north-eastern side of the church, we pass another gateway, which leads into the deanery, which is a fine specimen of architecture, and bears the monogram of its builder, viz.—the letter R, a kirk, and a tun, [R. Kirkton] and we then enter at once into the

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