Got up a little after seven. Breakfast at half past eight; the best bread and butter in the world; good fish and eggs. Two blacks driving away the flies. All rooms gloomy, the verandahs or shutters closed to keep out the heat. Called upon Mr. Hulme and walked with him and two Miss Hulmes. A beautiful chapel of white marble with a fine range of steps and columns, the inside equally neat, the pulpit in a recess, a column on each side and an inscription over "This is life eternal." Mr. Furness preached an excellent sermon "Examine Thyself." The singing chiefly by the choir with a good organ. After service walked with Mr. H. to a neat though rather small cemetery. Afterwards called on an interesting old Scotch bachelor who came to dine with us. We spent a pleasant afternoon, went on the railroad to see the inclined plane where an accident had recently happened;walked over a very large wooden bridge covered over and supported upon stone pillars. An interesting discussion respecting Jackson, etc. Took tea and attended the evening service; the text "What is the Almighty that we should serve Him?"
Some rain had fallen in the night that made it very pleasant. Went to see about the Frankford stage, told it would be at half past eight at the Exchange. Looked over some English papers. After waiting some time found the Frankford stage left at 2nd street above High St. Found it did not go till ten. Amused myself at the wharf watching some fishermen, some of them very successful. Coming back I saw turtles some laid on their back to keep them from running away; the snapping turtle very savage, if once it lays hold, nothing but the knife can part it.
Took the stage at ten, arrived (at Frankford) half past eleven. Went to Pilling's Works but could not find Mr. P. or learn anything about my uncle. Went to other works and set off a mile further to a cotton mill, but could not find it nor enquire of anyone. A great noise from the locusts that are still said to come only once in 17 years. Killed two to present to C. D. and Mr. B.
Returned and enquired at several stores but could hear nothing of him. Then set off to see Mr. P. and on the way found his brother who keeps a store. On asking him he seemed to hesitate and went into the house to make further enquiry. He then told me that his uncle had been working at his brother's mill at Hulmesburgh; that he died about three weeks ago having scalded his leg, almost insensible towards the last. This Pilling it appears married a daughter of Abraham Walch. I knew him at first sight. They immediately set the table out and urged me to stop a day or two with them. On my declining he put on another coatand accompanied me on the way, when he disclosed to me the melancholy news of his uncle having cut his throat, then denying it and saying somebody else had done it.
Asked for coffee a little earlier, promised in ten minutes; in less than five, fish (bass) and eggs, etc., ready. Walked up to the stage office and set off at eight; found it carrying the letters. Got to Hulmesburgh ¼ before ten, paid only 25 cents for ten miles. Walked to the works immediately, found Pilling's brother, learned the following particulars. That uncle had come from New England booking at a Croft, 18th Decr., that since he had worked very regularly not missing a day in 6 or 12 months, spent his money in drink at his lodgings, hardly ever at a public house; much respected and particularly so by P., had grown corpulent, scalded 16th Jan. and only able to work about two days since, was occupied in the dye-house and earned 67 dollars per week, half past four to half past six being a quarter of a day over. Had appeared rather depressed of late and wished to go home, still more so when he heard of my father's death. A subscription was begun among his men to pay his passage as soon as he was fit to go; this seemed to overcome him as his memory had been failing at times. On the 14th May he eat a hearty dinner, smoked his pipe, went upstairs as if to lie down for half an hour. Came out and entered the carpenter's shop, shut the door after him and immediately came out with his throat cut; was told of it by two women who happened to be going by. He denied it and walked towards the pump, a doctor was sent for but no help could be afforded and he died in less than an hour; he seemed to repent of it. I walked to the grave, attended by one of the jurors; he said every respect had been shown by a numerous attendance of his fellow-workmen—had a good coffin.
About one o'clock I heard a rumbling noise, immediately a flash of lightning; this increased so much that though the shutters were closed, and I covered in bed, I could see a blaze of light which continued some time, then louder thunder, so horrible as to throw me into a perspiration, after some time it abated a little, then returned with redoubled fury with heavy rain and I think hail for nearly an hour; it was truly terrific and I was glad to learn that I had seen nearly the worst. This was admitted by Mr. W. and also the driver of the stage who did not think he had seen it worse excepting once. Mr. Walker sent over to Hulmesburgh for one of his carriages, called with my letter to Mr. Taylor, but did not meet him; then went to Mr. Hulme, agreed to go out together at half past three. On returning to the Hotel, met Mr. Jackson and also Captain Kenney; took a piece of beef and a glass of champagne with my old companions. Hastened to Mr. Hulme's; found him and three daughters waiting for me in a carriage, drove to the Penitentiary where vicious youths are endeavoured to be reclaimed by useful occupation, such as nails for sofas, cane-bottomed chairs and book-binding. Thence we visited the State prison; the cells constructed in the octagon form; all seen from the centre; a small yard attached to each to walk in for one hour a day; a sentinel placed serving the whole. Then we went to the Alms or Workhouse which is on a magnificent scale; thence to the Hospital, passed over two large bridges. Returned and took tea and spent the evening at Mr. Hulme's.
Mr. Jackson at breakfast with an old acquaintance from Sicily. Whilst he fetched me the card, I took the opportunity of desiring the old school companion to urge upon his friend more temperance. The streets cleaned by a spray current from a large leathern pipe carried along. Set off at ninefor Skoolkill (Schuylkill) to visit John Wood, but found him gone from home to a farm about three miles further to which they were removing in a day or two; only saw his son about 16 years old; enquired about his sister who was very well. Proceeded on to Maryark filled with mills worked by water from the canal; was a desert only 16 years ago. Called upon my return but only saw the same youth. On my way observed the college[11]building by Girard's money and on getting into the city entered two of the splendid banks, also the Mayor's Court, and heard two trials, one horse-stealing and the other a lad for stealing a biscuit-cutter; both found guilty, the latter recommended to mercy on account of ill-treatment by his mother. The Judge, Mr. Keen, very clever. Thence to the Museum to look at the Mammoth, a good collection of animals, birds, etc., also some good portraits of distinguished people, amongst them Priestley and Paine. Called upon Mr. James Taylor, invited to tea as I was going so soon and intended being with Dr. Furness on Sunday. Thence to the great ship 74 by 20 yards and 20 yards high. Called again upon Ridings, also James Mason and then to Mr. Taylor's and finished at the Hulmes's—12 o'clock.
Slept very soundly, called up exactly at 5, the steamer sailed soon after six. A vast crowd of people some to N.Y. and others to Baltimore. Took breakfast soon after seven, the steamer 50 by 19 yards. Met with Richard Crook. A very extraordinary dust over the city of Baltimore; a very great wind soon came to the steamer so that it was hardly possible to stand upon deck.
After dinner called upon a young man at Hofman's who kindly walked with me through the city. Greatly disappointed with the Cathedral, only a very plain edifice with two goodpictures; charged ¼ dollar, by a zealous old Catholic who seemed shocked by the heresy of an old man who wished to go behind the altar. Then we walked to a beautiful fine column of white marble, surmounted by a large figure of Washington. Came to the Court House, better than that at Philadelphia; thence to the Exchange. From the column we had a very delightful view of the country all round. Wrote to Thos. Dean, desiring a letter or newspaper to be forwarded to Washington and again to Quebeck after two or three weeks; mentioned writing home from Washington and Boston.
Bought a large pike for 18 cents. Visited the Museum, also had music and singing and a good imitation of singing birds. Went to bed soon after ten; the bread at Baltimore very good. The horses' tails not cut in this country, being so useful in driving away the flies.
Had a very restless night, not expecting to go to sleep and then heated and feverish, got up soon after five. This hotel six storeys high, a square of nine windows besides outbuildings, above 170 bedrooms, ours No. 76. Called with Miss Crosdale's letter to Mr. Grundy. This hotel more extensive than any. The road to Washington very hilly. Buzzards, a species of eagle soaring high in the air. Some disturbance by Indians, muskets placed in threes and fours. The soldiers and officers in curious working dress, the land generally very poor. Two other buzzards hovering over some carrion that they could smell. Arrived at Washington at two o'clock; passed the Capitol which is a splendid building. After dinner a very heavy close shower of rain with thunder; cleared up soon and the evening proved delightful. Called upon Francis Taylor who keeps an extensive book store and has also a circulating library. He seems a little, shrewd intelligent young man about 22, has been nearly seven years from home. Speaking of this countryhe said how a man may get on to a certainty if he exerts himself, more a matter of chance in the old country. Gadsby's Hotel very large but not so neat as Bunker's, or Head's, particularly the former; the provisions not nearly so good. Learned there were upwards of 250 rooms, our key being 102. Not feeling very well, partly occasioned by too much exertion in Philadelphia.
Passed a very good night, not seeing the lightning which R. Crook said had been very vivid.
Francis Taylor called upon us and walked with us to the Capitol, a beautiful pile of buildings though defaced by painting. Heard a sermon Matthew vi and verse 2, in the House of Representatives, a beautiful place something like thenisi priusCourt at Lancaster. Each member has his own chair with a small desk before him; this space keeps enlarging from the centre where the Speaker is placed; a large gallery behind open to the public, that on the other side for ladies.
Commenced writing a letter, being too warm to walk and there being no particular object. In the course of the afternoon the clouds began to gather, soon after six there were flashes of lightning, which continually increased with thunder, wind and rain truly astonishing. Set off alone to the Unitarian Church, R. C.[12]nothing minding, and in fact the streams would not have suited his morocco boots. Just able to get along between every flash, found no service in consequence of the storm; managed to get safe back, and afterwards engaged in witnessing the sublime spectacle which continued till after nine; very fortunate that it came on so early as our sleep was not disturbed, but made pleasanter by the coolness of the atmosphere. The staircases to the galleries of Congress and many places covered with tobacco spitting.
Passed a comfortable night, walked out before breakfast and had a pleasant chat with F. T. During breakfast two or three boys driving away the flies by means of large ostrich feathers. Find that it is not common to sell slaves by public auction. F. T. said it was believed that if made free next winter, one third would die for want; but on mentioning St. Domingo he could make no reply, he said they were a different race of men. At ten we were taken in a coach by Mr. White, M.P. for New York, to see the President[13]; waited a short time in an ante-room with others, then were ushered into a large room furnished with books and papers. A tall, straight, old, thin-faced man with grey hair rose, and on my name being mentioned he bowed and shook hands. After a little conversation about losing his teeth by attempting artificial ones, which had dragged the remainder out until only his wise teeth remained, we left him, bowing and shaking hands again. Walked into parts of the house or palace; saw a very noble room where about 1500 attend five or six times a year. Rode in the same carriage to the Capitol; and were shown into the Hall of Representatives; a great many members present but not easily heard in consequence of the muttering in the House. Thence walked through the Dome containing several pictures, theDeclaration of Independence,Surrender of Burgoyne and Cornwallis, andWashington giving up his Commission. Thence went to the Senate; was introduced to Mr. Clay who could not tell me respecting R. Monks, as the cholera had made terrible ravages last year at Lexington.
Got up ¼ before 5. Left Washington at ¼ before 6. Arrived at Alexandria at 7; ran into the Museum till breakfast. The bridge across the Potomack more than a mile long. Got to Mount Vernon at eleven. Very well receivedby means of a letter brought by R. C. from a Miss Adams of Philadelphia. Shown through the house, saw the key of the Bastille presented to Washington by T. Paine, also the Library as left by W. Then visited the Tomb, a very plain brick front with an iron door more like an oven. Walked through the garden back to the house; partook of some cake and wine.
Some parts of the road very rough; lost our track for some time; very few people, only now and then a negro to ask. Got back just in time to dinner and escaped the rain and thunder being the 4th successive night. Learned that something interesting was going on at the Capitol, as several members were hastening to it. Found the Senate closed against the public. The Representatives' Hall very full and some interesting debates, particularly the notice respecting Lafayette's death, and also remuneration to the families of the French sufferers at Toulon.
R. C. is considered very fond of show—prefers very tight boots, yet has four or five corns on each foot. Thinks we could not do without wigs and gowns in our English Courts of Justice. Wrote to C. D. by R. Crook who will put it into the office at N.Y. Paid for the gig to Mount Vernon, 4 dollars, though the usual charge for a day is only 3. Mentioned writing home to Mr. B. from Boston. R. C. mentioned his uncle Tipping[14]getting £5000 and not spending £500.
Got up at six and walked to F. Taylor's; after breakfast enquired for a letter at the bar, then at the post office but was disappointed. Visited the Patent Office, endless variety of models of all kinds. Then to Pishey Thompson[15]who kindly offered to go with me and also invited me to tea and to bring F. T.
Went with F. T. to the Army Office, and saw a great many likenesses of Indian Chiefs; then to the Naval Office; saw the bags containing conquered flags, and also models of ships. Thence we visited the room containing the original Declaration of American Independence; also several treaties containing the seals and signatures of George 3rd and Bonaparte, Louis Philippe, Bernadotte, etc., etc., and what was still more extraordinary, a drawer containing many gold and silver medals, with a most valuable gold snuff box studded with diamonds presented by the Emperor Alexander[16], valued at £1000; all these things were left open entirely to us, without any other person in the room; this I consider very wrong as leading into temptation and I predict they will soon have some plunderer, either Yankee or foreigner; on going away we expressed our surprise at the want of discretion; they said they had only missed one small gold coin. Thence I drove to the Capitol, visited both Chambers and also the Library which is beautiful and well-furnished. I saw Cobbett's works. On coming to dinner I met my old Scotch friend Rowlandson with a countryman coming out to purchase land. Went again to Congress; heard some animated debates concerning the Indian States. Spent the last evening very pleasantly at Mr. Thompson's where I had the pleasure to meet the Unitarian Minister, Mr. Paulfrey I think, also young Taylor, Mr. Rowlandson and his friend.
Found another person in R. C.'s bed which made a little more precaution necessary. Rose half past four, a very pleasant morning. Tasted the second piece of pineapple last night; very cheap, not more than 8 or 10 cents.
Taken to the boat in an omnibus an hour too soon, this a pretty general practice. Sailed ¼ past seven, observed some boats not more than one yard across and about 5 yds. long like small canoes. Saw two turtles opposite to WashingtonFort; they dived instantly; saw a good deal of grass on the Potomack, which is supposed to be carried off the land by the hurricanes. Thunder and lightning every evening but the last whilst at Washington. Dined at Fredricksburgh; paid 50 cents, and 5 dollars to Charlottesville, the road so far splendid, through woody country. Two intelligent persons in the stage, one addicted to chewing much tobacco and spitting; the matter was argued. Saw the first snake lying dead on the road side, about one yard long. The worm fence generally used. The trees generally ringed, an easy way of clearing the wood. The roads paved in some places by logs of wood thrown across. Stopped at Chestnut Hill for supper nearly half past eleven; had coffee, chickens, honey, and was charged 50 cents; on being complained of they said great uncertainty as to number; had to provide for 10 or 12 and sometimes only two or three came. The driver did not whip much, but spoke to his horses kindly, as Punch, Sammy, Phoebe, etc.
Got to Orange Court ¼ past one, told we should be called at three; objected to a double-bedded room, afterwards shown another to myself, found the charge only 25 cents. The greater part of the negroes are slaves; one 40 years of age, worth 400 or 450 dollars; not allowed to remain here when freed; frequently bought by dealers who chain them together; the worst are generally disposed of first.
Rested very well; rose at half past three and set off at four; the road worse than any existing coal pit road I ever saw in England, full of ruts with stony rocks and stumps of wood projecting. Arrival at Gordonville to breakfast at six; paid 50 cents which I could not grudge as the coffee was very good. The road generally better, but in one or two places worse than ever I had seen before; many pigs and long-nosed boars with bristles like porcupines, active in discovering snakes; a black snake 2 feet long killed by thecoachman's whip; a little farther on a large lizard; a young hare and two partridges; beautiful trees rising very high on both banks; several saw-mills; the planks covering the bridges are loose and some of them slender. Got to Charlottesville at ten; part of the way very sleepy, so that there is danger of falling especially when jolting.
Dined at Brookville, the first Blue Ridge Mountain, good plain dinner with excellent milk and honey. Walked up the mountain, saw great quantities of whinberries; a delightful stream of water near the summit.
Arrived at Staunton at seven, very sleepy the last stage; sometimes the driver and I asleep at the same time, and the road very hilly, quite wonderful that I should have arrived safe. Many of the houses here are built as in Switzerland; trees are just squared and notched, or dove-tailed at the ends; sometimes the interstices are filled with clay or mortar. The wild vine climbs to the top of the highest trees.
Rose at four having slept very soundly, a natural consequence of only two hours the night before and riding outside all day. Disappointed about getting a seat with the driver, which was occupied by a coloured man whom they would not permit to go inside. Found the passengers truly American, asking many questions and lauding the country. Passed through a forest chiefly of oak. A branch of walnut brushed across the coach and left a perfume behind. Paid for supper and bed 75 cents. Arrived ¼ past sevenA.M.Paid for breakfast 50 cents, the usual price in this town because not much frequented except at certain seasons to the spring. Breakfasted at Jenning's Gap. Just before ascending a steep part of the mountain I got out to walk but it began to rain and I had to resume my seat. The streams of mud through which we dashed were quite astounding. On descending we found no rain. Dined at Charrodale on venison taken in the mountains, 50 cents.One of our travellers, a German who plays on the guitar and the pianoforte, along with three others; he sang the "Swiss Boy" to us.
I here mounted the roof of the coach as the blacks were not permitted to enter it; before we got to the foot of the mountain there came on a terrible storm of thunder and lightning with tremendous rain. It cleared up and we had a beautiful drive over the mountain before descending to the warm springs. We descended safely, if the drag chain had snapt we should have been thrown down the precipice. Got to Warm Springs at seven; took coffee. Then took the bath which seemed very hot, though only called the Warm Springs, 96 degrees. Felt very warm in bed though not disagreeably so. Most of the trees are oak and pine.
Slept soundly after the bath so that I did not hear the thunder. The bedroom I hope the smallest I shall meet with; got up at half past four but not able to shave; obliged to sleep in my shirt, as the night-shirt was made wet by crushing a pineapple into the bag. On the road I stept down to feel the Hot Spring which was hot indeed, I did not learn the degrees. Breakfasted at Maurice Hill. Drove over mountains chiefly covered with oaks and pines; the chief danger in crossing these mountains is the snapping of the drag chain. Dined nearly one mile from Sulphur Springs; a good deal of company; ran down to the spring, the water a sulphur taste. Took leave of fellow passengers consisting of an elderly lady and her daughter of the name of Parker of Philadelphia, a family from Baltimore; a gentleman about sixty with his wife and two daughters, one not more than seven years, and a middle-aged lady born in London. We had spent two or three days very pleasantly and parted reluctantly. I received an invitation to their house. Set off to Lewisburgh and arrived a little before six; a little thriving place. The hill before descending to the White SulphurSpring I find is the back-bone, as the streams flow each way; eastward into the Atlantic, and westward into the Mississippi. For some time past the negroes have been so numerous that whites have appeared rather strange. Some of the trees that are hollow are fired to drive out the squirrels, and others have been fired by lightning and others split by the same means. A double-bedded room.
Rose at half past three. Found my companion to be a member of Congress. There were two others in the stage, also a pleasing lady, wife to one of the members, also a young man, H. C. Hart, a midshipman, who was returning from a sail round the world, also a lively Frenchman. Breakfasted at Kamley. Dined at Deak.
The road as usual very hilly, covered with oak, pines, etc., also a curious honeysuckle and rhododendrons; the Hawk's Nest a jutting rock, 1100 feet high and a magnificent view of the river which does not appear 20 yards wide and is more than 200. Also the hills covered with trees, those below looking mere shrubs.
As we came near the Falls of Kanawha the bridge had been washed down, therefore we were ferried over; the road for some time carried alongside the rocks overhanging the river. Arrived ¼ before ten at Kanawha, got supper and to bed at ¼ past ten, to be called up at half past three. Eight beds in a large room; the window wide open, but I selected one of the beds the farthest off and secured my trousers under my pillow. The names of the two M.P.'s were Mr. Doon and Marshall McLatcher. Here I had the first introduction to mosquitoes, but they behaved rather mercifully, or perhaps my blood was not to their taste.
Rose half past three; dressed without a glass. On the road observed two little bears chained; they are fed one or two years and then eaten; these were about two monthsold. Also saw a quantity of pigs. A beautiful drive along the Kanawha. Indians farm on this side; mountains of fine timber on the other. Breakfasted 16 miles from the Falls, on good coffee and honey. Plenty of bucks' horns hung in the yard. Another young bear chained in a yard to be fed and eaten. 65,000 pigs driven last year through one turnpike gate. Large salt-works, the brine is pumped up and evaporated. Good coals are drawn out of the mountains on both sides of the valley, fine springs of gas escaping out of the surface which ignited on applying a live coal. The negroes said it would continue burning a week or two unless put out by rain.
Waited at Charleston nearly an hour and then found the coach filled with passengers, my seat particularly hot and disagreeable, so that I got outside; the driver refused to have more than one with him. I insisted on the seat, at length the other person went upon the roof, and I had a pleasant ride through hilly country covered with forest trees. On descending the hills one of the horses ran the coach wheel a little on the bank, so as nearly to throw it down the precipice. Again we forded the river in consequence of the bridge being washed away. Arrived at Guyandotte on the Ohio at half past eleven, got some coffee and entered the mail steamboat, where I slept pretty well notwithstanding the lightning and the shaking of the vessel.
Rose half past five at the sound of a bell so that the beds could be adjusted before breakfast; shaved and washed my mouth in iced water. Walked on shore to Portsmouth; saw a basket of offal beef thrown into the river; a warm morning, the ice on the butter steaming, 17 dishes of hot meat besides vegetables for the people. Paid to Maysville including breakfast and bed 3 dollars. Very much pleased with the cabin boy singing about "Father fighting for him and liberty," "Tennessee and liberty."
Arrived at Maysville at half past one.
Took a julep consisting of 1½ glass of wine with plenty of sugar and ice, also several herbs, mint, etc., mingled together, making a richly flavoured beverage. Took some dinner but found nothing good but some cucumber and onion. Paid fare to Lexington, 4 dollars. Passed yesterday a chapel made of squared pines dove-tailed together. At sunset I and Mr. Hart the young midshipman, went and bathed in the Ohio, most delightfully warm and the current very strong. The river rose last winter but one, 63 feet.
Maysville, a very pretty place to stop a day or two. The beach is high and consequently has a fine view of the steam boats, which are often passing up and down this noble river.
Rose soon after six as the stage to proceed in does not come in till eight. Slept pretty well till about twelve, when a negro came to put down the window as he said a storm was coming; presently I heard thunder which became louder and was followed by heavy rain. At the hotel here, three fans were made to move overhead to cool and drive away the flies. It was pulled by a nice black girl. Paid for dinner, supper, bed and breakfast one dollar. The ferryboat moved across by means of six horses revolving round. No cyder to be had here, everyone drinking spirits or ale, the julep is called a hailstorm. Passed over some of the best and worst roads in the U.S. some limestone, and macadam and limestone. Came to the blue or sulphur springs resembling Harrogate; took some lemon juice in the water. Arrived at Hillsburgh at half past seven, having had nothing to eat since breakfast at seven. At Paris I parted with Mr. and Mrs. Marshall, and Mr. Hart the young midshipman, with considerable regret. Mr. M. had to explain on the way to his constituents. Mr. McLatchercontinued with me to Lexington where we arrived at ten o'clock. After getting some coffee I hastened to bed, found three beds in the room, only one occupied. On the way yesterday we found a good deal of hemp grown, and much of it manufactured into bagging, etc. The land rolling or undulated is generally well cultivated.
Rose soon after six in expectation of finding out my old friend R. M.; rather disappointed to find from the innkeeper who is an Irishman, that the Monks were dispersed, only one remaining in the neighbourhood. He offered to walk with me to make further enquiry. At daybreak the drums announced the Day of Independence, which I find is to be celebrated in an extraordinary manner at Frankford. A half-brother of Richard Monks was sent for by the innkeeper; by him I learned the melancholy news of his brother's death which happened in Sept. 1832. He had left Lexington and settled at Louisville 3 or 4 months, then bought the half of a brother's estate opposite Troy on the Ohio; there his daughter married and settled at ——. Another son at Louisville keeping a coffee house. Walked with Mr. Monks to the College and heard two orations, vehement and abusive of the old country, lauding France and even Spain, the latter on account of Isabella who patronized Columbus, eulogised Bonaparte and declaimed against Russia for the treatment of the Poles; several negroes were peeping at the three doorways, but not allowed to enter or even to listen to an oration in favour of liberty.
Paid 5½ dollars to Louisville. At home I am considered a quick eater, but here I have not half done before most have left the room. A gentleman I met here said the labour of the negroes in Louisiana cultivating sugar was excessive, so that the women have hardly any children. A factory 5 yards by 8, two storeys, 4 windows on one side, turned by three miserable blind horses. Disappointed that R. Monks'brother did not call, as he kept me waiting all afternoon. Slept two or three hours till the stage left at 12.
Awakened at half past eleven luckily; only two passengers but these took special care of themselves, lying along the seat sleeping all the way. The road exceedingly rough, so as to prevent me having a minute's sleep. Arrived at Frankford at sixA.M., a very crowded inn. Never saw more drinking going on, all sorts of spirits, etc.; broken glass on the floor and an immense spitting box. A good road most of the way, limestone macadamised. A good many beech trees with some vines as thick as my leg climbing to the top. Only two passengers from Frankford and an agreeable breeze, so that I could not have done better in my own carriage. On coming out of Frankford we passed over a high old crazy bridge; changeable weather, thunder and rain and still very oppressively hot between the gleams. Arrived at Louisville ¼ past fiveP.M.and felt less tired considering that I had not been in any bed but moving on for some days. Went to enquire for Mr. Hulme but found the canal office two miles off, therefore set about to find young Monks, but could learn nothing till I called at the Post Office where I got the information. Took coffee, then called upon him. Found him very busy supplying with spirits, and gave him Mr. Brandreth's letter and promised to call again when he was not so busy. Retired to bed at half past eight.
Rose half past six, dream about my dear father; got a good breakfast with plenty of good milk. Took a hack to Mr. Hulme, at the canal office, for which I paid 25 cents. Heard Mr. H. was at Louisville but expected immediately as they were repairing one of the locks. Shewn through a very large steamer, theMediterranean, 600 tons capableof 800, and boilers 250 tons, consumes 36 tons of wood daily, sometimes goes to New Orleans in five days, 1500 miles.
Attended the Unitarian Church and heard an eloquent and very unusual discourse from 1 Tim. 2 ch. and 4 verse by Mr. Pierpoint; all the tunes known to me. On coming away I heard a very noisy preacher, a Revivalist, the man with me in the stage yesterday; a plain, poor chapel, the poor blacks in the galleries. After the sermon and singing several times, they were invited into the Church; about 8 or 10 godly women and children enrolled themselves. Called upon young Monks, had a pleasant chat and afterwards a walk along the esplanade. The canal is cut 2 miles through rock to avoid the falls. Came over the ground where a young man had been murdered, two out of four persons were found guilty and ordered to be executed in a month. Heard Mr. Pierpoint again this evening from the text "Pure religion and undefiled," the very best sermon I ever heard—religion a science of duties, as we stand related to each other, head, heart and hands; the Lord's Prayer if changed into synonymous language would be designated only a good moral sermon.
Saw Mr. Hulme this evening.
Perspired much in the night; got up and dried myself with a towel; not much alarmed as my pulse strong and regular; perhaps it beats high in the thought that I am now at the most distant point from home.
Mr. Hulme called upon me and walked towards the steam boats; presented me with a chart of the Ohio. Called upon Joseph Monks, he sat with me on the steamer, then left and sent me six bottles of cyder. I promised him to write about their family. Left at 12 instead of 10. The table drawn out in a curious manner, a snack consisting of tongue, ham, almonds and raisins. Dined about half past one.
A long political debate in which a poor Jacksonian came off sadly worsted; considerable commercial knowledge displayed, but evidently too speculative a spirit, and consequently credit much thought of. At six took some coffee of which I am never tired. So hot that I pulled off my coat and handkerchief. The evening very pleasant—sparks from the chimney enough to fire the boat, this nearly the case with theMediterraneanthe large steamer I saw yesterday. A grand sky, beautifully reflected on the Ohio; millions of sparks from the boilers with flashes of lightning, afterwards almost one continued blaze with much thunder.
Rose at four having rested tolerably only; felt a weakness in the small of my back; breakfasted on coffee without milk, excepting a little given me by one of the passengers. Paid for passage 4 dollars including lunch, dinner, supper and breakfast. Found the sparks last night had burnt into the deck. Agreed with a fellow to carry my portmanteau to theErin, another steamer for 25 cents, his own terms, but found it uncertain when she was going, therefore ordered the baggage to the hotel on the brow. The man wanted more but was silenced by the innkeeper who said it was enough for all day. Arrived at Cincinnati at eightA.M.
1500 hams hung up in one room plastered over with lime. A large foundry, 8 oxen drawing one tree. At one the mail came up going to Wheeling. Paid 6 dollars to Columbus; nobody but a French woman and her child for ten miles. Here at Reading whilst changing horses I got some most excellent bread, butter and milk for which I paid 12½ cents. This seems a better conveyance than the old crazy steamer. Took a cup of buttermilk for which they would not receive anything. A truly corduroy road, that is logs of wood laid across the road. Nearly upset into the river by running against a tree. Arrived at Lebanon ¼ before 7. This last stage to Wainville, the driver drovemost furiously and the horses went like mad. Why should tin drop-spouts be used instead of wood or lead? Almost everywhere the footpaths in the streets are paved with bricks.
Got to Springfield at half past five, a restless trembling night; such roads and such furious driving as enough to break arms and legs, through pits of water after the logs failed. Pretty good land divided into small farms, woods rather than forests; rather flat and the road bad and muddy, still worse, exceeding any I ever saw and yet this is called a national road. Well there were no other passengers or we should have been hauled out. Got to Columbus, it was the last twenty miles, all mud, so that we could only walk most of the way. Coming into Columbus such a flood that fields of corn are spoiled, and the road, half a yard of granite washed away; the old bridge also washed away so that we had to be ferried. Paid to Wheeling 6½ dollars. At the next stage I was informed my name was not entered as having paid my fare. During the night the coach stopt and I and the other passengers were desired to get out, the horses were completely set fast in the mud; after resting some time they made a further effort; we scrambled through the mud and got in; very surprising that the roads are not better protected by railing or walls, not even over the mountains or ridges.
Passed a nicely situated little town called Rushott at five. Only two passengers, therefore able to sleep pretty well. Arrived at Zanesville half past six, the last stage beautifully macadamised. Sour bread and poor coffee. Got them to allow my name to be entered for Wheeling as paid for. Arrived at Cambridge at twelve. The driver managed the drag chain by treading upon an iron lever. The last 20 milesvery hilly. A large waggon drawn by horses with sets of bells. After walking I found the coach nearly filled so that I got on with the driver. Observed some coal breaking out on the top of one of the high hills; this is generally the case so that they tunnel out from the valleys and are not troubled with water. Arrived at this side of the Ohio ¼ past nineP.M., too late to be ferried across, so that after taking the mail at Cincinnati at one o'clock to arrive at Wheeling in 48 hours, here, after 56 hours we are obliged to stop in a poor inn, and to take a bed with four others in the same room. These are the miseries of travelling; delays upon the road, especially being confined a day or two in some little uninteresting spot—so far, however, I have been pretty fortunate, and should not complain, but like all poor unreasonable mortals, the more we have, the more we wish to have. The last stage or two very hilly, covered as usual with forest. This I believe is the character of the country on both sides of the Ohio.
Rose soon after four and ferried across the Ohio in two places in consequence of an island; the ferry impelled across by means of a windlass letting down frame work into the water, and altering the position of the boat. When arrived at Wheeling hotel could hear of no boat till evening. Went again to bed; got up at nine, felt a little earache and not much appetite for breakfast, occasioned by disappointment at the delay. At one dined with improved appetite and actually eat an apple dumpling. Sat and read several newspapers without finding much from England; then read some good letters in the "North American Magazine"; felt in better spirits.
Took my place for Pittsburg, 3 dollars, visited a collection of wild beasts; amused by a monkey riding a Shetland pony, but most gratified by seeing a rhinoceros and elephant each four years old; the former had worn his teeth very much;both feed chiefly upon hay. The keeper puts his head twice a day into the lion's mouth, dangerous only as far as the animal being disturbed by some of the spectators. A camel or dromedary (only one hump) also four years old. Sailed from Wheeling ¼ past seven; the evening most delightful, the air warm and fragrant, the sky remarkably clear; the stars and moon appeared nearer. Found from conversation with the Captain and others that Tuesday or Wednesday have been considered very warm, also more thunder and lightning than they had often seen.
Rose at two, got into the stage at Steubenville, at three the coach quite full; ferried across the Ohio; passed through Paris; the country is very hilly and the soil poor. Stopped at Florence to breakfast, the remainder of the way hilly. On approaching Pittsburgh reminded of home by the coal and smoke; arrived at one o'clock. More than twenty steamers lying in the river, here the Ohio is joined by the Alleghany, the latter a much clearer river. In the stage met with an intelligent young man on his way to Erie, so concluded to stop at the same hotel. Paid to Wasson (?) half way to Erie 3 dollars. Walked to some iron works and saw them make rails very quickly, also some cannon boring. Walked across the aqueduct 400 yards long, cost 112,000 dollars. Called at the Post Office, but again disappointed.
Very sultry this evening, and I feel as if not likely to sleep; this is one of the depressing periods. After coffee I took a walk to the Catholic Church situated on an eminence. Pittsburgh is in a valley surrounded on all sides by verdant hills, and smoky as one of our English towns. This evening is so serene that the moon does not appear half its usual distance from the earth. Feel much relieved and refreshed by the walk and meditation. The first fence I had seen is here, and this by way of protecting the road, also the first time I had seen any horses' tails docked.
Got up at half past four: the stage nearly full. Observed almost the first potatoes in this neighbourhood. Crossed the Alleghany by means of a steam ferry. Paid for breakfast 25 cents. Arrived at Butler at one; hilly most of the way; a good many Dutch settlers in this part. Several large ant hills. Paid for the dinner, very good veal cutlets and excellent coffee, only 25 cents, the cheapest dinner I have had in America. The interesting young man mentioned yesterday is a Mr. Kennedy, a painter at Meadville, a Presbyterian; said they had in their town a Mr. Channing, an Unitarian and nephew to Dr. C. but not considered so clever. The coach we travelled in to-day is almost new, cost 520 dollars; this day fortnight in crossing the creek this side the Alleghany River, it was washed down the stream nearly half a mile rolling over all that way; only one passenger and the driver remained with it, and both escaped; had all the other passengers remained in, it is supposed the accident would not have happened. More like a Sabbath evening, the people seated at their log houses reading. The moon very splendid and apparently much nearer the earth than with us in England. Paid for the remainder of my passage to Erie 3 dollars; also for tea 25 cents.
Passed a very restless night, scarcely sleeping at all. One of the passengers sick and he feared it was the cholera. This made me feel uncomfortable and I wished to sit with the driver, but was deterred by being told of Kennedy's brother, who had the year before fallen from the same stage and been killed on the spot, supposed to have been asleep.
Got to Meadville situated on the rising part of an extended vale. Here I parted with Mr. K. and his sick companion who is a paper maker. An old intelligent Irishman who had come out thirty years ago, and had done very well,was one of the passengers; he spoke of his domestic afflictions and particularly the death of his wife. Very warm but luckily only 4 passengers. The last drive of 15 miles has been very warm and a rough road, yet the horses do not appear much distressed; got a glass of buttermilk. Dined at Waterford; paid 25 cents. The stage filled; the sun had got to my side of the coach; a slow drive and choked with dust, by far the most disagreeable ride I have had. Got to Erie at half past four, told there was no boat to Buffalo till morning. I went upstairs to wash and put on a clean shirt, and was then informed of a boat, but I could not get ready in time; though perhaps it was only a trick of the innkeeper, it may be as well to get a good night's repose; without now and then a check I should in uninteresting places be hurrying on too fast and knock myself up. Fell in with a pleasing intelligent young man; now that they were out of debt I said they might improve the public roads—he said grants were occasionally made, but were objected to as unconstitutional.
Got up at half past six, felt restored and now think it better than pushing on in the steamboat last night. The young man confirmed the old Irishman's account of the student at Meadville, viz. that the young one we had seen would be at his studies in the morning, and in the afternoon discharge his board by working as a blacksmith. Accompanied on board the steamer by the innkeeper; found the wind favourable; sailed soon after 8A.M.not a nice boat and the engine out of order, so that we shall be late before we get into Buffalo. Read in a periodical belonging to one of the passengers a terrible story written by Lord Morpeth. A most delightful breeze on the lake; how different to yesterday when stewed on the coach and covered with dust. Had some good singing on board by Methodists; got out at Portland and had a most delicious bath before dinner.Called at Dunkirk, also at Silver Creek; prevailed upon the ladies (Methodists) to sing again; paid for passage two dollars and ½ for dinner. Read a good deal in the "Temperance Intelligencer," in which a correspondent attempted to prove that the wine approved in Scripture was not fermented; another disapproves of the use of cyder and recommends the cutting down of apple trees. Landed at Buffalo at 8P.M.a very pleasant sail. Some trouble in getting my portmanteau to the inn; an offer from Irishmen who did not know the place. Here informed of a change in the English Ministry.
Rose at six and felt somewhat languid, having never I suppose had time for such feelings. No walking in America; taken down by stages to the boats however short the distance. Bought a pennyworth of cracked hickory nuts. A delightful breeze. Met on the steamer an English gentleman, his lady and child. Set off in a stage and left Buffalo at elevenA.M.; found it a pleasant drive mostly along the banks of the river. Arrived at Niagara soon after fourP.M.Immediately set off to the Falls; engaged till nearly seven without thinking of food, though I had eaten nothing since six this morning. Much struck with the Bridge over the Rapids to the Goat Island. Then walked towards the ferry, an immense sheet of water though only a small part compared with the Horse Shoe; returned and crossed over to Goat Island down Biddle's Staircase between the two cascades; afterwards to the bridge that overhangs the tremendous Fall, a huge piece of rock below occasionally visible when the foam was blown away; the vast clouds of mist rising very considerably into the air, and the stream for a great distance as white as milk. Ascended the tower[17], whence there is a more extensive view of the Rapids above as well as the river below. Again,after tea I went over the same ground and had a moonlight view of this most wonderful spectacle.
Rose before six, again visited the Falls. Left soon after eight; paid the porter 12½ cents, but he wanted more for cleaning my shoes. A favourable passage across as the wind blew the spray upwards; the water in parts much agitated; the ferryman demanded six cents extra for my baggage; nobody to carry it forward up the hill to the hotel; a man who came in the boat offered to carry it for 50 cents; this I refused and set off with it myself. I had not carried it more than two-thirds up the hill before I repented; the man came up and agreed for 25 cents; as it proved further than I expected I gave him a glass in addition. After changing my flannel shirt and getting a glass of milk I set off to the Falls, found a party going under the cascade; undressed and put on trousers, an oil-case jacket with a belt and a pair of rough shoes, and descended the staircase. There were two ladies but they were placed under the care of the guide. The rock projects amazingly, the path is narrow and rather slippery being constantly wet with the spray; at one place we were told to keep our heads down and hold our breath. I must say it proved more of an adventure than I expected; it resembled a tremendous shower of rain blown at us with the utmost fury; nothing much is to be seen, and I scarcely think it worth the trouble; the visit might be rendered much safer by means of a chain fastened alongside of the rock. A more irregular confused hotel, I never was in. Walked to the Falls alone by moonlight.
Rose half past five; paid six cents for shoes; walked to the Fall, still more magnificent than ever; green where there is most water; the whole Horseshoe filled with vapour rising a vast height, and at the bottom the water is rolled awayone complete mass of foam, white as snow, too dazzling to behold; the spray rises in beautiful clouds and falls in gentle drops nearly a mile off. Paid for Niagara one dollar. Left at eleven, called to see the Whirlpool formed by the river going into a bay; then Brock's monument 170 steps; giving a fine view of the lake. Allowed 2½ dollars for book and map. The stage gave way on going out, found the leather spring had broken, but we managed to go on slowly to Niagara. Bathed in Lake Ontario, then dined for 50 cents. Found one of our passengers to be Major Penn, who had been a good while in the East Indies and other parts of the world; also a young Irishman, a Canadian and an American. Sailed ¼ before six; arrived at York at half past nine, went on shore to buy "The Tourist," and a map, but found the shops closed; returned and went to bed. The berths double and if fully occupied would be very disagreeable. Felt tired in the knee-joints, supposed from descending the staircase at the Falls and going up Brock's monument. Got a comfortable cup of tea, bread good, etc. Paid 6 dollars for passage including board. More satisfaction here than waiting for theGreat Britainto-morrow; our passengers only about 8 or 10 and the cabin spacious and neat.
Passed a good night and rose a little before seven. Breakfast at 8 on tea and toast with some good veal cutlets. Read a Canada paper containing rather more Bristol news than the American papers, also a conceited account of the Falls. A very pleasant breeze. An intelligent gentleman from New York explained the reason for such excessive labour in this country, that a man was better rewarded, and after getting a few dollars he was stimulated to further exertion, and again he was able to make more of these savings by further investments or speculations. He thought there was much less learning among the young men in America; they became impatient to go into business; all at 21 years feel independentand able to get on, and consequently little under the control of the parents unless wealthy.
Left Toronto this morning at seven, arrived at Port Hope half past four; got to Cobourg half past six, went on shore and bathed again in the Lake Ontario, found the water cooler. A group of young women with fresher complexions than I had seen before in America. A head wind and the water considerably agitated. Walked the deck till after nine with two young men that are purposing going to Quebec.
During the night the boat pitched and rolled more than I expected. Got up at half past five, found some difficulty in shaving and a little qualmish. Passed two islands covered with wood. Made a poor breakfast, the milk had turned sour and I did not like the egg substitute. Went on shore at Kingston; entered a Sunday School but heard only some noisy instruction; then entered the English Church but service not commenced; then a Catholic Church, had some drops sprinkled upon me by the priest. Looked through a new steamer which was being built, a double wheel and the paddles alternately. A great quantity of wheat swept off the deck in our steamer. A great deal of money squandered here in barracks, forts, etc.; two ships rotting upon the stocks. The Rideau Canal[18]comes to this place, only good as furnishing employment, but what becomes of old England? Passed the 1000 islands, rocky and covered with wood. An old Canadian with an elegant bag for tobacco studded with beads. Very sleepy and dull most of this afternoon. At seven came to Brockville a pretty little town situated on rising ground. Arrived at Prescott soon after nine. Cholera reported to be very bad at Quebec, ninety a day dying; still I shall go on, hoping for the best.
Rose at four, got some new milk as a good foundation; paid 1/- English for bed, walked over the new steamboat with air-tubes on each side and two small helms attached to each, a 1½ yd. long and ⅓ deep turning nearly upon the centre, 180 feet long and about 27 wide; two engines. Left at six, breakfasted outside; had a beautiful view of the bank and island. Paid 1/9 and 7 dollars for passage to Montreal. The sail most delightful; in some places the surface became suddenly disturbed, one side a whirlpool, the other boiling up. The Durham boats[19], as they are called, are drawn up the river by means of six oxen. Cornwall[20]¼ past 11. One of the Durham boats drawn by two horses belly deep in the river because the banks are grassy and soft. Hazel trees different to ours; a good deal of nuts. Passed a very splendid Rapid, called at St. Regis, an Indian village; three young Indians nearly naked, one of them caught a halfpenny thrown a considerable distance, then jumped into the river; sailed with us in our boat then plunged into the water towards the shore; they had very black hair and were very brown. An old female Indian came to beg; also a canoe with two females and a little one. Prevailed on one of the females to sing: thought it a Catholic chant in the Indian language. Saw two canoes all of one piece of wood. Another delightful drive along the banks of the St. Lawrence; more Rapids; also a beautiful garden, almost the first I have seen since my visit to America. Arrived at Montreal at nine. The two last days have been spent delightfully.
Did not rise till seven, having dreamed a good deal about my late dear father. Read some newspapers; then joinedMr. Bradner in a gig up the mountain (Mount Royal); went the wrong way, so that we missed a good deal of the view of the city and river but ascended again; not so pleasant on account of the dust. Walked to the Hotel Dieu to see some ruins, but it proved only a hospital for sick people. Walked into the Cathedral, Notre Dame, a very large building, two galleries on each side and the seats below raised up from the altar. Got back and then walked to the Exchange News Room, read a good many English newspapers but found nothing particularly interesting; thence again to the Cathedral. Just before dinner, four o'clock, I was informed that the steamer was not going to Quebec; could not believe till I went down; they told me the agents had sent orders not to go in consequence of so few passengers, but that they certainly should go to-morrow, when they expected more passengers as there were races at Three Rivers. I and Ready from Bermuda sauntered about till dusk. This is one of the miseries of travelling, to be delayed in some little uninteresting place, or after you have seen all that is worth notice, of which there is very little in Montreal; fortunately the hotel is good enough, everything remarkably clean.
Rose at seven, no inducement to get up sooner. Called at the stage office to enquire about the Post Office and if they knew any Mr. Webster; was told he had left last night, tired of the place, no wonder! Employed all day reading the newspapers; an Indian came down by the wharf in a canoe to sell, asked ten dollars for it; found Major Penn, London; Messrs. White and Livingstone came up. The heat at 4 o'clock 96 degrees, but have passed the day very quietly in a shaded news-room. In addition to theSt. Georgethere is the Canadian steamer theEagleso that I shall surely get away. Was informed that the weather has been unusually hot since the beginning of July, without rain.Whilst in the news-room the chief conversation was the cholera; one of the gentlemen at table said the fear of it had driven away 30 or 40 people from this house; surprised to find myself so comfortable under all these circumstances. Went on board theSt. Georgesteamer at eight, a noble vessel beautifully fitted up. On setting off a woman was taken on shore, a young man looked very dismal, and said she was taken with the cholera; she proved to have got into a wrong boat which I took care to inform the young man.
Rose at five having rested very well, though I suspected the bed-clothes not being dry. Went on shore at Three Rivers and into the market; Indians selling coloured baskets; a good supply of eggs and vegetables, also square lumps of sugar made from the maple. Bought a few red currants, notwithstanding the cholera; a number of canoes with different kinds of fish; the eels thicker than ours; just in time for the steamer, will not cut it so fine again. This morning almost chilly; yesterday at 4, 95 degrees and at six, 81. The shores on each side are lined with neat cottages. Good coffee and bread. Soon after nine the eccentric collar of one of the engines broke, so that we shall be some hours late; the other engine is also out of order, so that we may not arrive before 8 or 9. Luckily both were set to rights, and the tide is in our favour so that we now hope to get in at 3. Arrived at Quebec at two and hurried to the Post Office. Startled at sister's letter having a black wafer, but was greatly delighted to find all well both in it and in C. D.'s. The weather intensely hot. On enquiring for T. Marsden at the P.O. found his son lived next door to the Albion Hotel, and kept a small druggist's shop; I was shown upstairs; William and young wife with her mother, who had come from New York on a visit with another daughter were there. William looking better but very thin, which they said had been the case during the last three weeks in consequenceof so much sickness; the cholera very bad, 29 deaths yesterday. Thomas lives about 1½ miles off. Dined at the Hotel (Albion), walked with William to the hospital and then to his sister's; the little girl sang for us.
Rose at six. A good night's rest having supped chiefly upon milk. A thunderstorm at four reconciled us to it, in hopes of its driving away the cholera, which after all I cannot but think is exaggerated. Took a calash with young Fred Andrews, a most intelligent child of 8 years. Went over some romantic country, and in two hours came to an open space on the side of a mountain covered with trees. Fred pointed to his grandmother; she did not know me but was greatly affected. Found Thomas engaged in a small room teaching 26 boys and girls, some coming three miles. He did not know me; but was not so much altered as I expected. His wife soon told me of T.'s irregularities which caused him to leave the school at Quebec, and they had come to this wild place to break his connections; their neighbours gone except two or three the most villainous low Irish. If she left home some of the dram sellers would fetch away hay to pay T.'s shots. After dinner T. and I set off to Beauport Lake; sailed across, caught a nice trout but no other fish, and were only allowed to use the line. A great quantity of raspberries, and there had been many strawberries. His income at one time had been 25 dollars per week. He had received 100 dollars for tuning the organ at the Cathedral.
Made arrangements for setting off to the Falls (Montmorency Falls) at six, but the rain prevented us, almost the first disappointment in all my journey. It cleared up and we set off, a party of five to the Falls; a pleasant drive with several pleasing views of the city; disappointed with the Cascade; the grass wet, and not able to get to the foot; a strong currentgoing to a saw mill. Returned soon after twelve; walked with T. Marsden's wife to the Potters' field to see Ainsworth's grave stone, but did not find it. Then to the Citadel[21]whence I had a magnificent view though not quite clear; and descended by the tremendous staircase, 365 steps with an inclined plane to wind up stone. Crossed over the river in a four horse ferry to see the Indians settled there, but did not find them. On my return the boat had sailed and I was rowed in a canoe by three children; got to the inn a little after four. Found two pairs of stockings missing; got 2/- allowed. Paid 1¼ dollars for going to Montmorency. Rain as we set off to the steamboat: sailed at seven on my way home. Between 30 and 40 sat down to tea and coffee, the latter very good. Had some conversation with Mr. Livingstone; found he was a large store-keeper dealing in silks, woollens and cottons.
Very noisy people during the night, apparently great confusion and danger in passing the Rapids. Rose ¼ past six, hazy almost the first time. Introduced by W. M. to a Mr. Buchanan a surveyor. 160 emigrants on theCanada, 12 unable to pay their fare, and their boxes taken as security. A heavy shower of rain cooled the air. Arrived at Montreal at half past four; saw the steamer sailing off to La Prairie though the Captain told me it did not go on Sunday evenings till five. Several of us were very anxious to be getting on to La Prairie; engaged a boat for two dollars more; had a written agreement. Very much troubled not to find the lady and her son and daughter ready for the boat; set off to meet them, came back determined to go on with Mr. Ready as it was getting late. The boatman came to tell me they were all waiting of me; got my luggage on board; a very narrow boat; found a good deal of agitation in the Rapids and the water nearly coming over, but we were allpretty experienced in sailing. On landing was surprised to find the four passengers with their luggage and four boatmen had crossed the St. Lawrence in a canoe. Two calashes were brought up, also a stage with four horses which had been sent in consequence of the steamer not waiting as they expected a signal from theCanada. The Captain behaved very ill, first promising to be in at four, and then telling us it did not sail till five. However, we engaged to go on to St. John's for two dollars. Arrived after twelve.
Rested very well and rose at seven; a misty morning. Saw some fish, perch, etc., just taken. Sailed at six in theFranklin, the very nicest boat I have ever seen. A delightful morning; leaving the sick cities, Quebec and Montreal, and hastening home in good health and spirits. The Lake Champlain, only about 80 yards wide, and the shores low, covered with brushwood. Paid for passage to Ticonderoga 4½ dollars. The dinner very good, five or six servants with turban caps. The dessert consisted of nuts, almonds, walnuts and raisins; all the spoons, etc., of silver; altogether the very neatest boat I ever saw. The Captain's room fitted with excellent portraits, in another part all sorts of advertisements, with a beautiful desk for the public use. Asked a dollar for a bottle of porter, then said half a dollar. Took a pint of port wine, charged one dollar; an impudent fellow with one of the waiters saw the bottle, he filled up his glass and drank it off without once looking at me. At Plattsburg on Lake Champlain an American officer came on board and allowed our portmanteaus to pass, on condition they contained only clothes. Very delightful scenery; beautiful islands with distant mountains on each side; a broad road up the mountain; an avalanche. Went on shore at Burlington and had a delightful bathe, the water pleasantly warm and a sandy slope. Quite a crowd at tea so had to attend the second course. Lay down in a berth till 12; then looked after luggagewhich I found to be all safely locked up; everything managed in the most admirable style; the sailors all in uniform and the boat let down with a rope, so that passengers could be landed with scarcely stopping the boat. At Ticonderoga the greatest hurry for beds; an offer made to pay for double-bedded rooms, so resigned myself to chairs: afterwards had a comfortable bedroom.