Abdur Rahman, Amir of Afghanistan, quoted,288.Agriculture, U. S. Department of,207.Amban, the,253.American Baptist Mission,81,85,158,183.American engineers, surveying in Yunnan,29.American Legation, the, at Peking,232,237.A-Mi-chou,21,22.Amur River,251.Annamese, in Haiphong, appearance and dress of,12,13;and the Red River R.R.,15.Annamese police,7,8.Annamese Tirailleurs,18,19.Anning River, valley of, the shortest trade-route between Szechuan and Indo-China,71;78,89.Arnold Arboretum,66.Assam hills, life on tea-plantations of,17,18.Baber, Colborne, in Chien Ch'ang,74;cited,90,106,171,181,182,191,204.Baikal, Lake,236.Bailey, Captain, English officer at Tachienlu,126ff.;his later explorations,127;defends Tibetans,132;139,175.Barrow, riding in a,169.Batang,124,126,128,131,160.Bayard, Fort,7,8.Beggars, absence of, in West China,46.Bishop, Mrs. Bird,216.Black Rock Rapid,216,217.Bogda Ola (Holy Mountain),274,282.Bogdo, the Living Buddha, status of,277;superstitions concerning,278;a second-rate god,278;his motor-cars,279.And see Gigin, the.Bonze, the, his Buddhism,282.Boxer rising (1900),28,225,233.Brick tea, transportation of,105,106;how prepared,159,160.Bridges in Yunnan,61.British American Tobacco Co.,67,183,235,242.Brooke, Lieutenant, murder of, by Lolos,75.Buddha, colossal figure of, at Chia-ting,180,181,182,200,201;reigns supreme on Omei,189;his tooth at Wan-nien Ssu,191.Buddha, the Living,253,277.And see Bogdo and Gigin."Buddha's Glory,"189.Buddhism, and lamaism,138;many forms of,282;lamaism a "black travesty" of,282;317.Buggy, an American, in Mongolia,257,264.Burma, Upper,3.Burmese, the,12.Caindu (Chien Ch'ang),74.Calcutta,112.Camel Road, Kalgan to Urga,245ff.Camels, in Mongolia,263.Cameras, feeling of Chinese toward,156,157.Canadian Methodist Mission,183.Canton, House of the Dead at,87;24,29,222.Cart Road, Kalgan to Urga,244.Catty, the,33.Cave-dwellings,204.Chair-bearers, their traditional calls,149,150andn.Chala, King of, his summer palace,133,134-136;his troubles,135;125.Chang-ho-pa,148-150.Changsha, outbreak at,226,227.Chang-te-ho,224,227.Chang-Tien-You, railway engineer,234.Chao Erh Feng, death of,125.Chen River,123.Chen Chia Ch'ang, theatrical performance at,185.Chengtu, missionaries from,133;under the "Emperor of the West,"171,172;the modern city,172ff.;its fine silks and embroidery,172,173;its shops,173,175;British Consul-General at,173;European community of,173,174;missionaries at,174;Tartar population of,174;the Manchu quarter,174,175;one of the most advanced cities of China,175;police of,176;French Consul-General at,176;university of, and its students,176,177;railway question and the revolution at,177;rivalry between Chung-king and,209;24,42,105,198,203,226.Chengtu, plain of,167ff.;its people,167;its bad roads,167.Cheng-kiang,163.Cheo, Mr.,211.Chê-pei,56.Cheung-chou, Richthofen quoted concerning,165,166,167.Chiang-yi,65.Chia-ting, seat of white-wax industry,73;the "rose-red city,"180ff.;the flood of 1786,181,182;its insalubrious climate,183;Protestant missions at,183;warfare over cigarette-smoking at,183;cooliehongsin,183;the first city in Szechuan to declare for the Republic,201;161,178,179,203,204.Chia-ting plain, beauty of,180;subject to floods,181;184.Chien-Ch'ang, district of, diversity of crops in,71,72;poppy banished from,72,94;white-wax industry of,72,73;almost unknown to Western world until lately,73,74;dangers of travelling in, due to neighbourhood of Lolos,74,75;recent steps of government to ensure safety in,77.Chien-Ch'ang valley,33,42.Chien-Men, the (Peking),230.Chihli, province of,227,316.Children in the East, how "brought up,"284.Chin Ch'uan, region of, almost unknown to Europeans,119.Chin Ch'uan River,78,118.Chin Tien (Golden Temple),32.Chin Tien Monastery, on summit of Omei Shan,193-199.China, and Tibet, meet in Tachienlu,123;western boundary of,124;revolution in, effect of, on relations between China and Tibet, uncertain,125;grouping of trees in,154;status of missionaries in,158,159;fruit and vegetables in,206;and Mongolia, meet at Kalgan,235;hold of, on North Mongolia, insecure,285;is she in decay?317,318;impression produced by,318,319;her future,321.And see Chinese and Chinese Government.China, West. See West China.China Inland Mission,126,216.Chinese, the, characteristics of,42,43;their footwear,44;of Yunnan and Szechuan, physical characteristics of,51;dote on children,56;climatic susceptibilities of,58;and their dead,87,88;spend freely for food,108;how sacred places are used by,113;their lack of nerves, how illustrated,120;in Tachienlu,124,131;military achievements of,125,126;good manners of,129;their feeling toward the camera,156,157;ordinarily peaceable,176;their fondness for theatrical performances,185;friendly relations of Europeans and, in Chung-king,209;their dramatic ways,230;their interference in Mongolia,253;unwelcome aliens there,276;how like they are to us!309ff.;their self-reliance,314;found all over the East,314;slight outward variations in, in different parts of the Empire,316;a vast majority of, have a common tongue,317.And see Coolies.Chinese city, the, in Peking,230.Chinese funeral, a,142.Chinese Government, projects of railways in Yunnan,29;said to encourage lamaism in Mongolia,282.Chinese inns. See Inns.Chinese laborers, on the Red River R.R.,15.Chinese mob, the176.Chinese revolution. See Revolution.Chinese temples. See Temples, Chinese.Chinese women. See Women, Chinese.Ch'ing Ch'i,105.Chit (letter of recommendation), the,211,212."Chou," meaning of, in place-names,31n.Christians, Chinese, in Hui-li-chou,70;superiority of, to their fellows,128,129."Chuman" pagodas, of Szechuan,204.Chu-ma-tien,224.Ch'un, Prince, Regent,231.Chung-king, the Chicago of West China,207-213;a treaty port,208;no limit to its development,208;missionaries in,208;foreign community in,208,209;friendliness of Europeans and Chinese in,209;rivalry between Chengtu and,209;Merchant class of,209,210;cosmopolitan club at,210,211.Cigarettes,67,183.Cloud Mountains, the,64,65.Cloudy Sun, City of the,214.Coffins, Chinese,93,94.Colborne Baber. See Baber.Colonial expansion, sought by Doumer,9.Confucius,317.Constitution of the U. S., lectureon at Chung-king Men's Club,210.Cooking, in Yunnan,58.Coolies, for overland journey, importance of,33;contract for,35,36;their wages,36;their character and dress,43;their cleanliness,48;long journeys often undertaken by,212,213;203,204,205.See Fu t'ou and Hong.Coolies of the author's caravan (hired at Yunnan-fu),51,52,56,57,59,65,67,79,80,83,84;(hired at Ning-yüan-fu),85,96,97,103,107,108,115,121,129,130,141,143,144,148,156,162,169,170;their thoughtfulness and good-will,149;dismissed at Chengtu,178;(hired at Chia-ting),183,185."Crooked sterns,"214.Cua-Cam River,11.Customs regulations, tend to check development of trade in Tonking,15."Daisy,"31.Dalai Lama, the,277,278.Davidson, Warburton,209,210.DeMailla, hisHistory of China,171.Dead, the, kept unburied in China,87.Didier, M.,224.Dogs, in Mongolia,259.Dong Dang,10.Doumer, M., Governor General of Indo-China, his energetic forward policy,9-11;and the exposition of 1902,13.Dragon Festival,176.East, characteristics common to, different races of,42,43.Eliot, Sir Charles, quoted,28.Emperor of Heaven, Mountain of the,214."Emperor of the West," the, at Chengtu,171,172.Erh-tsun,53,54.Escort of soldiers,38-40;why urged upon travellers,38;vagaries of,41,121,122;change of,55;in Szechuan,77,78,98.Europeans, and native women,17,18;and Chinese, in Chung-king,209.Exchange, varying rate of,97.Fan t'an, played by coolies,59.Fei Yüeh Ling,111.Ferry, Jules, "l'homme de Tonking,"9.Flowers, profusion of, in mountains of Yunnan and Szechuan,62,65,66;in the Ta Tu valley,144,145;north of Urga,292.Foo-chou,214.Food, method of cooking in Yunnan,58,59;some details concerning,108,109-111.Forbidden City, the, in Peking,230.Foreign Legion, French,18,19.France in China,18ff.;224,225.French, race-prejudice among the,18;in Yunnan,29.French consulates in Yunnan, like fortified outposts,29.French troops in Indo-China, familiar with vernacular,20.French sisters,141,142.Friends' Institute, club at Chung-king, visit to,210,211;a new departure in mission work,211.Friends' Mission, the, at Chung-king,209,210,213.Fruit-growing in China,206,207."Fu," meaning of, in place-names,31n.Fu River, the Min sometimes so-called,203.Fulin,42,89,102,103.Fu-ming-hsien,55,56.Fu t'ou (head coolie), and "the squeeze,"96,97;an opium-smoker,107,108;35,36,48,85,130,140,151,164,165.Gardens, in Mongolia,260.Genghis Khan,74,281,282.Gigin, the (the Living Buddha), Urga the home of,276,277.And see Bogdo.Glass, rarely seen in West China,40.Glorious Dragon Rapid,214.Gobi Desert, crossing the,256ff.;the outfit,256,257;an American buggy in,257;the party,257,258;fine weather in,258,259;gardens in,260;disadvantages of bathing while crossing,262;wild life in,262,263;vegetation in,264;no houses in,264,265;235,251,252,304.Goddess of Mercy. See Kuan Yin.Goddess of Mercy Rapid,214.Goitre, in Southern Szechuan,68.Golden Sand, River of, the Yangtse so called,64.Golden Stream, the,118.Golden Temple, the,32.Goosetail Rock,217.Gordon, Charles G. ("Chinese"),229.Grape-nuts, in China,240,241.Great Cold Mountains, the (Lololand),