75.Great Encampment, the. See Ta Huren.Great Snow Mountains,117.Great River, the. See Yangtse.Great Wall of China, the, at Nankow,234;246,285,304.Gurkhas of Nepal, beaten by Chinese,126.Hainan, island of,11.Haiphong, difficult approach to,11;customs officials at,11;at police headquarters in,12;described,12,13;3,4,5,10.Haitang,95,96.Hakka,142.Han River, and Yangtse, three cities at junction of,222.Han Yüan Kai,104,105.Han Hai. See Gobi Desert.Hankow, the Chicago of East China,207;and its sister cities,222;the trading centre of the three,222;the revolution at,222;preparing for journey to Peking at,223,224;38,219,227.Hanoi, capital of Tonking,10;one of the finest cities in the Far East,13.Hanyang, rival of Bombay in manufactures,222.See Hankow.Heavenly Mountains. See T'ien-Shan.Hei Shi Tan,216,217.Himis lamassery,124.Hoang River, bridge across,228;contrast between, and Yangtse,228.Hoi-hou,11,29.Ho-k'ou,10,18,19,20,66,67.Honan, province of,227.Hong (guild), coolie,33,35,36.Hong Kong, where East and West meet,4;essentials of outfit procurable cheap at,4,5;240.Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank,37.Horse thieves, warning against,269.Horses, in Mongolia,263.Hosie, Sir Alexander,93,94,119.Hou Wei Têh,243.Hsi-Liang, and the opium trade of Yunnan,25.Hsiao Hsiang Ling,91."Hsien," meaning of, in place-names,31n.Hua-lin-ping,112,114,161.Huc, Abbé, quoted,249,250,279,280.Hui-li-chou, European women rare visitors to,69;native Christians in,70;67,68.Humphreys, Dr., missionary,81.Hupeh, province of,38,218,227.Hupeh money,37,38.Ichang, from Chung-king to, by river,213ff.;a busy place, and why,221;its location,221,222;177,226.Impedimenta, advice as to,4-6;all essentials procurable at Hong Kong,4.Imperial City, the, in Peking,230.Imperial Post-Office, efficiency of,127,128.India,310.Indo-China, French rule in,8,9;under Doumer,9,10;little outward difference between men and women of,19.Inns, in villages,47;in towns,47,48;plenty of hot water the one luxury of,48;foul-smelling,48;in Mongolia,248.Intemperance, absence of, in East, simplifies travel there,84.Interpreter, the, a Kiangsi man,4,5;his democratic instincts,203;dismissed at Hankow,224;34,77,78,79,86,96,97,99,100,108,121,133,140,151,152,156,178.Iro River, travelling on,305,306.Irrawaddy River,71.Ivan, tarantass driver,292,294,297,298,299.Jack (terrier),6,11,12,32,33,34,40,45,46,60,61,95,103,104,108,127,140,143,146,147,149,151,153,166,170,178,192,205,224,229,239,259,264,265,274,275,295,297,298,307.Jam, in praise of,240.Japan, and the Manchurian railway,246.Japanese, at Chengtu,175.Jardine, Mattheson & Co.,225.Jee-ka,56.Kalgan, China and Mongolia meet at,235;main roads from, to Urga,244,245;an outpost of Russia,246;233,238,239,241,242,243,252,257,266,273,281.Kalgan-Peking R. R., the first railway constructed by Chinese,234.Kang (furnace),248.Kang Hi,116.Kerosene, white wax superseded by, for lighting,73.Kiakhta, "very western,"303,304;its great commercial past,304;289.Kinsha Kiang. See Yangtse River.Ku Niang (author's title),140.Kuan Yin (Goddess of Mercy), temple to,113.Kublai Khan,49,74.Kung-tan,214.Kwang-chou-wan,7,9;bay of,7.Kwangtung, province of,51,105,316.Kwei-chou,55.Kwei-fu, the "trackers' Paradise,"216;change in attitude toward foreigners at,216.Kweilu, the, river-steamer,221.Ladakhis, the, effect of lamaism on,282;131,146.Lamaism, in Tachienlu,124;aspect and effects of,138;strength of, in Mongolia,279,280;said to be encouraged by Chinese Government,281;its effect on the people,281,282;a "black travesty" of Buddhism,282.Lamas, ferocity of,131;different kinds of,279,280,281.Lamassery, in the Gobi,265; at Tuerin,268;of Bogdo, at Urga,277,278.Lao-kai,18-20.Lao-pan (boat-captain), the,213,215,216.Laughter, the universal solvent,60.Leng Chi,115.Lesser Trail, the,140ff.Lhasa, road to,125,134;126,127,128,131,160,274,280.Li Ching Hsi, and the opium trade of Yunnan,26;and the Pien-ma question,30.Li Ping,167.Li-chou,86,87.Lime juice, merits of,240,241."Lincoln,"31.Literatus. See Interpreter.Little, Archibald,116,209.Liu, chair coolie,79,84.Liu, cook, from Chung-king,5;dismissed at Hankow,224;38,45,48,56,86,103,110,140,178,188,202,203,211.Liu Sha River,104.Loess country, the,228.Lo-han,182.Lololand, the mysterious,67,74,75;neighborhood of, complicates travel in the Chien Ch'ang,75;measures taken by government thereanent,77;92.Lolos, in Yunnan,50;"tame,"75,76;their ethnological status a problem,76,77;their proper appellation uncertain,76,77;89,90,91,92,98,189.Losus, in Yunnan,50.Lu-Ting Ch'iao, bridge at, the only connecting link between China and Tibet,116,117;115,139,142,145,161.Lu-Han R.R.,225,227,228.Lu-ku,88.Lung-kai, scanty accommodations at,63;101,206.Ma-An Shan Pass,145,154.Ma-fu (horse-boy),48,157,161,164,165.Mai-ma-chin, one of the three cities in Urga,275,276;the Chinese trading settlement,276.Mai-ma-chin, on the Siberian frontier,302.Manchu rule, its anti-opium policy one of the causes of its overthrow,26.Manchuria,55,236.Manchus, downfall of, and the Six-Power loan of 1908,226.Mandarin language, some form of, spoken by five sixths of the people of China,317.Mandarin Road, the,104ff.Manners, in China,129.Mekong River,71.Mencius, quoted,312."Mercury," coolie,107.Miaos, in Yunnan,50.Mien-ning,89.Military schools, in Yunnan,28.Military spirit, in Yunnan,27.Min River, travelling on,202ff.;name unknown to the Chinese,203;native names for,203;scenery on,203,204;64,73,178,180.Ming dynasty, fall of,171.Ming Shan (mountain), famous for tea,163.Ming Shan-hsien,163.Missionaries, at Ya-chou,158;status of, in China,158,159;at Chengtu,174;at Chung-king,208.Mohammedan rebellion,50,54.Mohammedans in Yunnan,50.Monasteries on Omei Shan, picturesque names of,193.Monastery of Ten Thousand Years. See Wan-nien Ssu.Monastery of the Voice of the Waters,182.Money, arrangements for,37,38;Yunnan dollars,37;Szechuan coins,37;Hupeh money,37,38;difficulties concerning,97,98;for the Mongolian journey,241.Mongol city, in Urga,277.Mongolia, and China, meet at Kalgan,235;prospective attractions of,236,237;preparing for travelling in,237ff.;stores,240,242,243;money,241;on the road from Kalgan,243ff.;the "Camel Road" chosen,245;exports of, mostly animals,245;post-routes across,245,246;Russian influence in,246;first impressions of,247;the grassland,247ff.,259;inns in,248;tents or huts ("yurts") in,248-250;"the unchanging East,"248;the women and children of,250,251,260,261;topographical description of,251,252;population of,253;government of,253;opium habit in,255;wives come high in,261;Chinese unwelcome aliens in,276;lamaism in,279,280.And see Gobi Desert and Mongolia, Northern.Mongolia, Northern, rainy season in,270-272;trade of, controlled by Chinese of Mai-ma-chin,276;extension of Russian influence in,284,285;railway connection would be advantageous to,285;hold of Chinese Government on, insecure,285,286;colonization of, by Chinese,285,286.Mongolian plateau, the,247ff.Mongolian Road,244.Mongolian tents. See Tents.Mongolian women. See Women, Mongolian.Mongols, material position of,253;lazy,254;their herds,254;neither manufacturers nor tillers of the soil,254;as tea-drinkers,254;great endurance of,254;intemperate,254,255,260;fine horsemen,255;degenerate sons of a conquering race,255;oppressed by Chinese, not by China,260;eye-diseases of,265;effect of lamaism on,282;prefer Russians to Chinese,285;not China, but civilization is driving them to the wall,296,297.Mongols, of the author's Mongolian expedition,257,258,265.Mongols, Northern,268,270.Monks, of Burma, their Buddhism,282.Morrison, George B.,237,238.Moscow,236.Namti River,18,21;valley of,15,21.Nan River,165.Nanking, as the possible capital of China,229;159,226.Nankow,233,234.Nankow, Pass of,228.Napoleon III,8.Ni T'ou,111,121.Nicholas II, Tsar,306.Nicolai,292,295.Ning-yüan-fu.33,34,37,71,74,75,80-82,83,85,86,178.Omei (town), and its pilgrims,185;its shops,186.Omei, Mount. See Omei Shan.Omei River,184,187.Omei Shan, the holy of holies,180;ascent of,187ff.;myths and legends concerning,188,189;monasteries on,190,193,194;