Arrangements for our Departure from Morzouk — Parting with the Sultan — Leave Morzouk to return to Tripoli — Sleep at Dgleim — Mode of conducting a Kafflé of Slaves — Arrival at Ghroodwa — Pass two Days at Sebha — Are joined by more Kafflés — Marriage of an Arab — Account of the Wadey Shati — Arrive at Temenhint — Zeghen Om el Abeed — Pass of Kenair — Pass over the five Days Desert to Sockna — Troubles at Sockna — Further Description of that Place.
Duringthe few days I remained in Morzouk after my return from the south, my time was much taken up in visiting and endeavouring to relieve a poor boy who had a locked jaw. He was in a state of great debility when I first saw him; one of his hands, which had been injured by a weight falling on it, and which accident occasioned the disease, was in a terrible condition, uncleaned, and smelling most offensively. He had not for many hours taken any nourishment; but I succeeded in forcing out one of his front teeth, and making him swallow some soup and milk, with a dose of bark twice a day. He died on the 5th of February of exhaustion, in defiance of my utmost care, and the numberless charms which were written on his skin. I have observed that the Fighis, who compose these charms, hold out that it is wicked to read or copy one of them if it has been written for any particular person, and that the original alone may be read by the owner. In order to avoid unthinkingly reading charms which they have purchased, the Fezzanners immediatelyenclose them in a small case of leather or cloth; if this is not to be procured, they carefully tie up the paper with cord or thread.
It has erroneously been supposed that the Moors or Arabs will not permit any one to draw views or figures, in consequence of a prohibition to that effect in the Koran, evidently taken from our Second Commandment. As far as regards myself, I certainly found no opposition in taking sketches, farther than being told that it was forbidden to make likenesses on paper or otherwise, as the Romees, or Christians, worshipped such images. I explained to them, however, that it was not for a religious purpose that I employed my pencil, but merely to make resemblances of my friends: all jealousies then vanished, and I was ever after quietly suffered to proceed. It was a matter of much speculation and wonder that I could possibly contrive to represent such little men on paper, and they never failed to trace a likeness to some one of the company present, even although the colour of the skin, or the costume itself, might be different. In one instance I excited evident jealousy in the Sultan, who could not be persuaded that a Negress I had drawn was not one of his favourites; and he asked me, in no very gentle manner, how and where I could have seen her, as she was confined to the Castle, and was visible to no one but himself? Many of the people, on first taking up a drawing, did not appear much struck with it; but no sooner had they discovered the eyes than their astonishment and delight were expressed by loud laughter, by cries of Allah! Allah! and by placing the back of the open hand against the forehead. Few, however, confined themselves to this mode of admiration, but boldly pushed at the drawing with two fingers, one for each eye, to the great risk of its entire destruction, exclaiming, “There are his eyes; ’tis Abd Allah, Mohammed, or some other of our friends. Look at his eyes! there are two of them! God is merciful! How wonderful! Well!I never thought a man could be put upon paper. That’s the very Kaftan he bought of Hadje Mahmoud! And look, he has a nose and mouth too, oh! oh! oh! Allah! Allah! Allah!”
Fighi Sālem, a friend of ours, was particularly anxious that I should give him, before my departure, a stock of medicines, such as would enable him to become a father. I constantly made some excuse, but he was so pressing, that, unwilling to own my want of ability to comply, I gave him a compound of the dust of our medicine chest, which I pompously assured him was excellent, and would produce the desired effect. I recommended to him, when taking the prescription, to shut one eye while he drank, or to hold his ears; which he promised faithfully to observe, and I make no doubt was anxiously awaiting the result.
I made up some packages of medicine, which I presented to Mukni, begging him to accept also a small still which he had borrowed, and which I knew he never intended to return. He asked it first for the purpose, as he said, of making caraway water; but I strongly suspect it was employed in composing something more congenial to his palate, as his Negresses kept the still on the fire night and day, and much mystery was observed on the occasion. Belford was sent for once or twice to put it in order, Mukni allowing him to enter the Haram attended by one of his sons.
I sold our small horse for twenty dollars, and hired camels to bring home our goods as far as Sockna at one mitgal (or at the rate of the exchange of gold, one dollar three-fourths), the kantar.
We had a japanned tea-tray, which was considered by far the finest thing ever seen in Morzouk. This I presented to Hadje Mahmoud for the improvement of his family. He had often extolled it highly, and whenever he brought any one to visit us, begged that his friend might be indulged with a sight of it. We at last discovered that he wanted it to show to his Negress, who was withchild by him (to his great boast, as he was seventy-five years of age), that she might produce a handsome boy, all his family being horridly ugly, and, like their father, very short; and the lady being near her time, the gift was most thankfully received. I was promised a very handsome ewe and ram of the Soudan breed, which were to accompany me to England; and Aleiwa sent me, as a present, a very fine Maherry, which he had ridden himself from Borgoo. It was quite white, and very fleet and docile.
Drawn from Life by G. F. Lyon.On Stone by D. Dighton.A Tuarick on his Maherrie.London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
Drawn from Life by G. F. Lyon.On Stone by D. Dighton.A Tuarick on his Maherrie.London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
A Tuarick on his Maherrie.
London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
Hateeta, a Tuarick of the tribe of Benghrasāta at Ghraat, of whom I have before spoken, came to take leave of me. He now pressed me very much to promise him, that on my return to Africa, I would pass through his country, of which he is Chief, and take him with me to the Negro land, adding, that if I would bring him a sword like the one I wore, he should be perfectly content. He is the only Tuarick I ever saw, who was not an impudent beggar, or who made presents without expecting a return. He brought me some curious little cords, made of the hide of an antelope; and as a proof of attachment, gave me the dagger he wore on his wrist, and which was finished in a superior style: he gave me, besides, a saddle cloth for my Maherry, and instructed me how to mount it. I made him accept, in return, a pound of gunpowder; and we parted with mutual promises of being always friends. Yussuf’s mother made me a large quantity of dweeda, cusscussou, and tikkery, a cake made of dates, flour, and spices, and sent me some very fine dates for my friends in England. I spent my time, whenever I was free from the attacks of hemma, which generally confined me about four hours daily to my bed, in visiting the slave markets, and attending the merchants, with many of whom I was on very good terms; which led me to expect a good reception from them, in case, according to my promise, I should visit their native countries, on my return to Africa. Every thing being in readiness forour departure, and Lizari having, though with some difficulty, obtained the Sultan’s permission to go to Tripoli, we took leave of our friends.
Wednesday, Feb. 9th. Therm. 1°. 30′. below 0.
This morning we prepared to go, and at nine all was ready, and I went to take my farewell of the Sultan, who affected to shed tears, and to feel as much regret at parting with me as if I had been his own son. He very injudiciously reminded me of Mr. Ritchie’s having asked him to cash my bill, declaring his readiness to have done so, and adding a great deal in favour of himself and his willingness to accommodate us on all occasions. For the credit of my deceased friend, I thought proper to contradict him; and without farther ceremony taxed him with telling me an untruth, which at once silenced him on this subject. He then confided to me his intention of going in a few months into Bornou, in which kingdom he proposed establishing himself as Sultan. He begged that I would soon return, to accompany him thither, and teach his people how to fire his three four-pounders. Of course I made him no promises on this head. On my rising to take leave, he said, “Sayd, I hope you will come and see me again; for I have always been your friend, and was Yussuf’s also. I am convinced that you will tell this to your Sultan, and that I have done every thing you required of me.” I at once put a stop to these false assertions, by exclaiming, as before, that he did not speak truth; and waving my hand in token of farewell, took my departure, though certainly not without some apprehension that he would endeavour to detain me. These apprehensions naturally arose from an idea that my return might perhaps be arrested in the same manner as that ofHadge Osman, which will be better explained by the following anecdote. When Mukni first obtained possession of Fezzan, Hadge Osman, the principal Mamluke, had a severe dispute with him, which appeared to have been amicably settled, Mukni laying his hand on his heart, and professing much friendship, as he was in the habit of doing when most disposed to mischief. On leaving Mukni’s presence, however, the unfortunate Mamluke, with his two sons, was hurried to a dungeon, and immediately strangled! That I should have been suffered to quit without interruption the territories of this treacherous man, was a subject of amazement to all; particularly as I had openly espoused the cause of Lizari, and it was known that he intended accompanying me to Tripoli. I succeeded, however, in reaching the house of Lizari, whence we rode away together. We were accompanied by some of the principal people as far as Dgleim, where we arrived at sunset, having journeyed east by north thirteen miles from Morzouk. My Kafflé consisted of Belford and myself, and eight loaded camels, four Arabs, our two Maherries, two sheep, and my horse. Lizari’s was composed of sixteen Khādems, or females, and three male slaves, his own Negress, four loaded camels, a Maherry, which he rode, and two Arabs. We were all in high spirits, our little party rejoicing at the idea of returning home, and Lizari at having escaped the malice of Mukni. Our friends remained with us all night, and we arranged together many plans of future meeting.
February 10th. Thermometer 0°.—At 8.15. our kind friends took leave of us, Yussuf and old Hadge Mahmoud sobbing loudly, and Mohammed looking very gloomy. Poor little Barca, the boy whom Yussuf had lent us for so long a period, appeared quite inconsolable. I wished to have brought him away; but, to my great regret, his master would not sell him to me, though I offered my horse in exchange for him. I really felt much concern at partingfrom these kind-hearted people, who had, to the best of their abilities, often befriended us, and to whom we owed so many and weighty obligations. The day was fine, our camels good, and we set out at a brisk pace. The Shreef Sadig, who had been encamped at a little distance from us, now became our messmate. His Kafflé consisted of four girls, three men, four camels, and three Arabs. Lizari and myself joined our stock, which Rahmata his Negress, who was an excellent cook, made into a nice mess for us every night.
Had I trusted to Mukni’s professions, I should have been in some danger of starving on my road homeward. He told me repeatedly not to think of preparing food for my journey, as he had commanded his slaves to make for me cusscussou, flour, and dried meat. He also assured me, that on the day of my departure, I should receive from him an order on all the towns through which I should pass to supply myself and animals with dates, &c.; but, after all, no one part of these fine promises was fulfilled, which added one more proof to the many I had before received, of Mukni’s falsehood and insincerity.
Our road lay over a desert, without the least sign of a shrub, or any living creature. A strong cold east wind blew with great force, as it met with no impediment, and quickly chopped our lips and skin. The Negroes wore their travelling dresses, which being new and clean, looked very neat. The girls have green or yellow caps, with a large flap on each side; shirts of blue or white cotton, a petticoat or wrapper of the same, and a good warm jercad or barracan. It is to be observed, that masters do not at all times take equal care of their slaves; but that fearing the bad effects of cold weather, the merchants are in winter more attentive to their comfort than at any other season; and this for their own advantage, since it prevents the Negresses from becoming thin and consumptive (which want of clothing would otherwise subject themto be), and makes them bring a better price to their owners. The males are not so carefully attended to, having generally only a long shirt and barracan. Both sexes have sandals of camel’s hide; the girls walk by themselves, and the men follow the camels. At one o’clock they are all watered like cattle, out of large bowls, placed on the ground, from which they kneel and drink. Children are thrown with the baggage on the camels, if unable to walk; but if five or six years of age, the poor little creatures are obliged to trot on all day, even should no stop be made for fourteen or fifteen hours, as I have sometimes witnessed. We passed a Kafflé of about twenty camels from Tripoli, with a chowse of the Bashaw, loaded with corn for Morzouk; they informed us that the Bashaw had sent an army against Augela, and that the plague had ceased at Tunis and Jerba. At four we turned from the road to go to a well, Ghroodwa being considered too long a journey for the slaves: we had travelled until that time north 40° east nineteen miles. At 7.30. we arrived at Neshoua (a Wadey running east-north-east), having cleared north by west seven miles. A well of good water was here, and we lay down amongst the palm bushes. In unloading the camels, Belford’s Maherry took fright, and running on to the desert, his saddle fell off, and the beast lamed himself sadly by striking his toe against it: some Arabs from the neighbourhood seeing us cooking, came and supped with us. The mess of the slaves is provided before that of their masters; it consists of Bazeen, of which each one has a portion about as large as the double fist; and a bowl is filled with grease and pepper, into which they occasionally dip their paste. The daily allowance of food is a quart of dates in the morning, and half a pint of flour made into Bazeen at night. Some masters never allow their slaves to drink after a meal, unless at a watering place. When the meal is finished, they all lie down, thefemales in one line, the males in another, and are covered over with sacking until morning.
February 12th. Thermometer 30° below 0°.—Water frozen, and the poor Negroes in great distress from the cold. At 8.20. loaded and proceeded along the edge of the Wadey. Belford walked for a time, and his camel appeared much swelled about the foot. Course north 75° east; Wadey about one mile in breadth, bounded on each side by the Desert. At one P.M. we stopped at Ghroodwa, having made twelve miles. Here is a fine Mosque and a tomb (which is kept constantly white-washed) over the grave of the third brother of Sidi Besheer, the Marāboot of whom I have before spoken. I bought a fine sheep for a dollar and a half.
February 12th. Thermometer 2° 30′.—At eight proceeded along the Wadey; at 9.30. arrived at the end of it, and found a well called Bir el Whishki, or well of the palm bushes. We were joined here by a chowse of the Bashaw of Tripoli, who had just come from thence with thirty camels’ load of grain; he said it was reported that the English Consul was coming to meet me at Benioleed. On leaving the well we entered again on a stony desert, and at 6.15. descended a rugged pass called Taneïa, to a plain hemmed in on every side by conical-shaped hills. At 6.40. we stopped for the night, having travelled north 33° east twenty-six miles. A large Kafflé of natives of the Wadey Shiati,وادي شدتي, passed us on their way to Morzouk, with grain, and to compliment the Sultan on his son’s return. We had many Arab games while sitting with the camel-men round our fires; and I now began to be well acquainted with these people, having occasionally been under the necessity of honouring one or two of them with a box on the ear. We were all very merry, and one of my people, Ibrahim el Fetaima, an Arab of Hoon, told us some very amusing stories.
Sunday, 13th of February. Thermometer 3°.—Proceeded at 7.45. along the plain. At nine the hills opened on to a broad flat plain, bounded at about ten miles to the eastward by hills, which were a continuation of those we had passed. At 1.40. arrived at Sebha, having travelled north 33° east fifteen miles. Strong south wind blowing. We found under the walls where we encamped two Kafflés who were awaiting our arrival; one belonging to Hadge Mohammed el Turké, who had twenty-three Negresses and five men slaves; the other belonging to an old lame Turk called Baba Hassein, and consisting of twenty-one females and seven males: they had left Morzouk two days before us. In the evening all the village assembled outside the walls, to carry a bride in procession to her husband’s house. A camel was ornamented with a frame-work, covered over with carpets, shawls, and ostrich feathers; and the bride placed within it on his back. The camel was led by a relation of the bride, preceded by dancing people, music, mounted and dismounted Arabs, who shouted and fired, running backwards and forwards in front of the procession. The bridegroom walked before them, with a fan in his hand, and his fingers dyed with henna, loaded with tawdry clothes, and looking very solemn. The bride was carried round the town and gardens, and in the end conducted to her husband’s house. The village all night resounded with songs, and the shrill voices of the women; and we had several bowls of provisions sent out to us. We found the flies here very tormenting.
Drawn from Life by G. F. Lyon.On Stone by D. Dighton.Camel conveying a Bride to her Husband.London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
Drawn from Life by G. F. Lyon.On Stone by D. Dighton.Camel conveying a Bride to her Husband.London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
Camel conveying a Bride to her Husband.
London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
As I have frequently had occasion to mention Shiati, I now take an opportunity of saying that it is a district lying to the westward of Sebha; it is situated in a Wadey, and contains many towns. This Wadey runs east and west, or nearly so; and is divided into Wadey Shirghi, or eastern Wadey, and Wadey el Ghrarbi, or western Wadey.
In Wadey Shirghi the towns are thus situated, beginning from the east. Ashkiddiاشكد, Ghiddiقدّي, Gelwasقلوس, Brakبراك, which is two-thirds of a day from Sebha, and ten days from Gharian, is the largest of these towns. Zooiatزويات, Tamzawaطمرعوه, Gusser Sallāmقسرسللم, Aggarاقار, Maharougaمحاروقه, El Gerdaالقرد, Tarootطروت, Goottaقوته, Berghenبرغن(two of that name), Temissanطمسان, Iddriيدري, which is a large village, and westernmost in the Wadey Shirghi. It is two days from Brak, and eight days from Ghadams.
Another wadey called El Agaalاللقعرruns parallel to the above. It is one day from Sebha, and has the following towns in it: El Abiadاللبياض, El Hamraالحمره, Khalifaخليفه, Bendoobaïaبندباي, Zueïaزويا, Ergābiارقعبي, Tenāhmiطنامي, Gusser Saadقسر سعد, Gusser Sbaidaقسر زبيده, Kharaigخريق. This is all the Wadey Shirghi.
The Wadey Ghrarbi begins from the east at Iddri Fegaigeفقيج, Kertibiكرتبي, Garragarraقراقرا, Tuashطواش, Teweewaطويوه, Germaجرما, the ancient capital of Fezzan; Ghraraifiغرّايفي, Oubāriوببعري, seven days from Ghraat, which is about W.S.W. two long days from El Abiad, which is one day from Sebha. This is the Wadey Ghrarbi.
The people in the Wadeys are blacks and mulattoes as in Morzouk, and Arabs live amongst them. The villages contain from thirty to two hundred houses; many, however, are composed of palm huts. The people are very poor, but in the time of the Waled Suleman, who resided much amongst them, they were opulent. In some of the pools of stagnant water in the Wadey Shaiti are found small worms, of about the size of a grain of rice; these are collected in great quantities, and pounded with a little salt in a mortar, until they form a black paste, which is made into balls of about the size of the double fist, and then suffered to dry in the sun. These worms, which are called Dood, form one of the very few luxuries of Fezzan, as the poor people, when they havea mess of flour, mix some of them with the sauce, to their Aseeda. They resemble very bad caviar in taste, and the smell is extremely offensive; but habit and necessity overcome all prejudices in this country, and I soon became very partial to them. Sand is an unavoidable ingredient in this paste, and the natives consider it as more wholesome in consequence. One or two families gain a good subsistence by preparing these worms for the market of Morzouk, and the neighbouring towns.
Monday, Feb. 14th. Therm. 3°.—Another Kafflé joined us from Morzouk, belonging to a native of Tripoli named Khalifa: those I mentioned before, set out this day for Temanhint. Belford’s Maherry was here so lame, that I had him fired all round the foot by Ibrahim, who was now become very useful to us. The manner of firing camels is by a very thin red hot iron, which is curved so as to be easily turned round the foot: they have these irons of different lengths and sizes, for the particular part to be burned. I hired another camel for Belford to ride on, at the rate of two dollars, from hence to Sockna, agreeing that it should carry two skins of water on passing the Soudah.
As I had nothing better to occupy me, I mounted my own Maherry, with a Tuarick Rahela, or saddle, and practised riding him according to their manner, which is very difficult, and not used in Fezzan. I fortunately succeeded much beyond my expectation. A town called Gurdaقردَه, is S.S.E. one mile from Sebha.
Tuesday, 15th Feb.—At 7.30. went on, after having been most hospitably treated by Lizari’s friends. Our road was over a barren plain, until 8.30. when we ascended a mountain called Ben Areifبن اريف, by a pass named Hormut ben Areef, bearing N. 55°. E. of Sebha. At nine we descended to a stony plain, bounded close to the right by table-topped hills: to the left were a few insulated sugar-loafhills of yellow limestone. At eleven the plain became more distinct; distant hills to the right, and desert plain extending to the left: this latter was called El Ghrazzieالغرازي. At 1.15. mountains closed in, in the form of a crescent, having two black hills half a mile from the road, called Roos Ghraabروس غرعب, or the heads of the ravens. At two arrived at Temenhintطمنحنت, having travelled N. 56°. E. 15 miles. In the evening we had occasion to buy straw for the camels, in a way I had never before seen, of the people who came out from the town to trade with us. Shreef Sadig soon instructed me in this new mode of barter. The person who has to sell mentions what he wishes in exchange for certain commodities, whether oil, liquid butter, or shahm, which is a kind of salted fat much resembling bad tallow in taste and smell. If liquids, he pours water into a pot in proportion to the quantity of oil or butter he requires; if solids, he brings a stone of the size of the shahm, or other article demanded. The buyer pours out water, or sends for smaller stones, until he thinks a fair equivalent is offered. The quantities then agreed for are made up to the size of the stone, or the depth of the water.
Temenhint is so completely surrounded by date trees, that it is not seen from the road. It is a small walled village, and considered by traders as the most inhospitable in Fezzan.
Wednesday, 16th. Therm. 1°.—At 7.30. started. Stony desert to the left and right, with bushes occasionally. At 9.45. descended to a sandy hatïa, called Hatia Gurmaydaحاتيم قرميده. At 4.30. arrived at Zeghenزيغن; having travelled N. 75°. E. 22 miles. We built up our goods under the walls, and lay there. Having been so long accustomed to black faces, I fancied that the natives, who are entirely a white population, looked sickly. The women are reputed to be very handsome; but I did not enter the town, and if I had done so, should not have seen them. We had numerous visitors, and a large supply of food, Lizari’s general acquaintanceenabling us to procure whatever we wanted. They gave us an account of a wedding which had taken place that morning, speaking much of the beauty of the bride; and on hearing her named, we found that she was the very girl whom Lizari intended demanding of her father on his return from Tripoli. He was much confounded, but bore with great good humour our joking him at being too late. The successful lover was aware of Lizari’s intentions; and on hearing he had set out from Morzouk, instantly demanded, and bore off the prize.
Thursday, February 17th. Thermometer 0.—At eight we set off over an uneven plain to a stony desert, a cold north wind blowing. After passing some hills, we arrived at the Hatïa, and wells of Om el Abeed,ام العبيد, having gone north 50°. E. twelve miles. We met a few Arabs from Sockna, who said that Sidi Mohammed ben Shaib was expected, on his way to the Sultan of Bornou, with presents from the Bashaw: they also said an Englishman was with him; but I concluded the report to have originated in its being known at Tripoli, that Belford and myself were to have accompanied him. In the evening, we filled and mended our Gerbas, and otherwise prepared for passing the five days’ desert now before us. The Arabs amused themselves by placing a camel’s skull on a rising ground, and firing ball at it, all resting their guns; only one, however, struck it. I rose to fire; but they all laughed at me for not placing my gun on a branch, or otherwise steadying it; I nevertheless struck the head twice, when, resolving not to lose my reputation as a good shot, I laid down my gun with indifference, pretending I could hit it as often as I pleased. The Arabs were astonished (and I must own I was equally so, being but an indifferent shot in general), and gave me the title of Bendag, or marksman.
Baba Hassein, whom we again joined at Zeghen, had nevergiven his Boozaferr,بوزفرّ, or footing in the country, which I mentioned our having done at Sockna, or more properly in the Soudah mountains. The Arabs in these cases procure either the skeleton of an animal, or some carrion, and, digging a grave, bury it, howling as if for a deceased friend. All the night they imitate the cries of wolves and hyænas, as if in search of food, saying, “Where is our Bouzaferr? we are crying for our Bouzaferr; the natives are starving; give your Bouzaferr.” The buried bones are intended to imply a starved friend, who is supposed to be unable to rest till the survivors are fed. The old man was, however, deaf to all their hints, and in consequence the Arabs made a little grave (for him, as they said), and left him, not without a few hearty wishes that some harm might befall him.
As we sat round our little fires, during our march over the desert, we amused ourselves with a variety of Arab games and puzzles, and a few clumsy tricks with date stones, and much laughing and joking passed off our evening very pleasantly, until sleep seized us, and we then laid ourselves down on the sand round the fire until morning.
Friday 18th. Thermometer 2°.—As there was at this place great plenty of Agool, and other shrubs for the camels, they were, owing to a concerted scheme of the Arabs, not to be found; we therefore were destined to pass the day here, in spite of all our threats and remonstrances. One of a party of Arabs, who had joined our Kafflé at Sebha, and from whom I hired the camel which Belford rode, offered one for sale. It would not, like other camels, eat dates, and no food was to be found in the track we were to pass. We consequently despaired of its being able to get through the desert; and I, thinking to make a good bargain with him, offered him for it two dollars, or ten shillings. He refused this, and went away; but an Arab soon after brought me the animal, having purchasedit for me for a dollar and one third, 6s.8d.! I killed it, and made every one merry, as it was sufficiently large to afford, for freemen and slaves, each two days’ allowance; it was a Maherry from Borgoo, and I suppose weighed upwards of 600 lbs. The hungry Arabs had many quarrels in cutting it up; and I sometimes feared there would be mischief amongst them; but the altercation ended, like other quarrels amongst these people, in great noise, and biting tongues at each other.
I never before had an opportunity of observing how water is procured from the belly of a camel, to satisfy the thirst of an almost perishing Kafflé. It is the false stomach which contains the water and undigested food. This is strained through a cloth, and then drank; and from those who have been under the necessity of making use of this beverage, I learn that the taste is bitter. As this animal had recently drank, its stomach was nearly full. I amused myself in making observations on its skin and skeleton, and in planning the formation of a boat; and I found that a most excellent contrivance might be made from them, for the purpose of crossing rivers; the back-bone being used as the keel, and the ribs as timbers. The formation of the chest of a camel resembles the prow of a Portuguese bean-cod, or fishing-boat. Indeed, it was in consequence of hearing the Arabs always calling it Markab, or ship, that the idea first occurred to me.
Saturday, 19th February. Thermometer 1°.—Having filled water for five days, we set out over black stony hills, bounded to the north-westward at the distance of a mile from our track by a sandy desert. At nine, a hillock of a singular form, resembling a turret, and called Amaymet Saad, bore north 52° east. As it stands at the entrance of a pass we were to ascend, we proceeded towards it; a strong east wind blowing very sharply. We met a man on his way from Sockna, who informed us that the Consul had been atBenioleed. The Negresses had, from the time of our setting off, been collecting wood, and the poor creatures were each laden with stock for two days. We passed a grave, which was ornamented by an inverted gourd at the head. The person buried there was a drunken man, a native of Sockna, who had been in the habit of carrying letters or orders across the desert, whenever the Sultan required it, and was able to pass it on foot in three days, at about forty miles a day. It once happened that a letter was to be brought from Sockna to Zeghen, and this man was selected for the purpose; he was drunk at the time, yet insisted on having his gourd full of Lackbi, instead of carrying, as usual, a small skin of water at his back, promising, however, to drink enough at Gutfa, a well at the foot of the mountains. He set out in this condition, and was found dead with his empty gourd by his side, within an hour’s walk of the well we had left, and so finished his task; he was accordingly buried here, as a warning to all topers.
At 12.6. P.M. came to the sand, and passed over it until 1.30. when we reached very steep, irregular sand hills, which we found great difficulty in ascending, the camels falling repeatedly. Having cleared these hills, we ascended a plain by a pass called Kenaireكنير, to the eastward of which, at the distance of a mile, is the turret I have already mentioned. Through the sand hills, I observed a singular line of rocks, resembling the scoria of the lava of Vesuvius, and about ten feet in breadth, running north and south for about five hundred yards. The mountains over Om el Abeed, which we had just left, run east and west, until lost in the distance. The hills we ascended were of limestone and flint, very precipitous, and facing to the southward, running east-south-east and west-north-west. The plain was covered with a white crust or clay, with here and there bare rock intervening.
At 3.40. P.M. we passed over a few sand hills, called ElRamle Shraiya, or the small sands. At 4.15. came to a black stony flat. 4.45. passed a long line of stones facing the east, called “Sala el Sultan, or the praying place of the Sultan;” a former Sultan having prayed here while passing the desert with a numerous army. At 6.30. arrived at a spot called Gheranfāta, which is generally a resting-place, and is marked by two or three basaltic heaps: we had advanced to the pass, north 45° east, twelve miles, and from it north 52° east, the same distance.
Observed this day that the driver of one of the camels, which had joined us at Zeghen, was a blind man: he held by the animal’s tail, and was in the habit of going constantly over this uneven, and, in some places, dangerously steep track between Sockna and Morzouk. I learnt from Khalifa that one of his Khādems had died in the morning, and that he had stopped behind to bury her.
Sunday, 20th February. Thermometer 30′ below 0°.—At 7.30. passed over some gravelly plains as the day before. The horizon was as perfectly level as that of the sea. We saw a great deal of Shrabشراب, or false water. This plain is scattered with the carcasses of the numerous animals which have died on it after passing the mountains. No ravenous animals are found here, so that it is rare to see a skeleton deprived of flesh. At 1.30. we passed El Ramle Kebeer, or the large sands, which is a range of sand hills running to a great distance to the east-south-east from our right hand. At 6.30. stopped, having travelled north 35°, east 35 miles. The slaves were much fatigued, and I placed a couple of little children on my horse, whilst I rode on a camel. Belford’s Maherry was in very poor plight; but I determined, if possible, to get him to Sockna. The hills of El Gaaf, which are placed on the right and left of the road before us, bore thus: north-east point of the western range north 27° east; west point of the eastern range north 66° east. A raw night, much sand blowing over us.
Monday, 21st February. Thermometer 3°.—At 7.15. set off. At nine, passed the eastern Gaaf, and at ten the western. 11.20. rose gradually to the beginning of Soudah. I walked, and my two camels were made use of by some of the poor fatigued Negresses, who were ready enough to mount them. We passed over a plain of white shining stones, called El Maytba Baydaالميتبايده, and then over a black one called El Maytba Soudahالميتباصوده, which is covered with large detached black masses of basalt. At 2.15. descended to a long wadey, having a few Talhh treesطالح, and running north and south, called Temesheenطمشين. At four passed this, and ascended with difficulty to another mountain top. At five we descended by an equally dangerous track to a narrow wadey, called Fingerفنقر, where, as the slaves were very much exhausted, we lay for the night. My own Maherry had fallen very lame this day in consequence of the sharpness of the rocks we passed over; I therefore lightened his load, and allowed no one to mount him. A remarkably high and black mountain, called Koholكخل, or black, bore north-west about ten miles. We had proceeded this day north 35° east, 30 miles.
Tuesday, February 22nd.—At 7.20. went on. Thermometer 5°. A very fine morning. At noon we passed over a wadey, called Zayraزيرا, with many shrubs in it, on which a few poor shepherds from Sockna were feeding their flocks. From 2. to 2.50. passed over a mountain top, called Dahr t’moumenدانحر تمومين, or “the Believer’s back.” At 5 stopped on a wadey, having travelled north 35°, east 14 miles. We were every evening much amused by a little Tibboo boy, called Moosa, about five years of age, whose master was always in the Kafflé next to us. This child had picked up a few words of Arabic, and spoke very prettily. The chief amusement of his master, and the Arabs who were with him, was to make Moosa dance, and then fight another boy of double his age. Whilstsitting opposite to each other by the fire, their masters made them fight with lighted sticks. Moosa, who always was the first to be enraged, began to call the other boy an infidel, to curse his father, and to use many other equally insulting speeches, which the Arabs taught him. The elder boy, provoked in his turn, then rose to revenge himself, when the little fellow darted at his legs, and by biting them unmercifully, was always sure of gaining the victory. The Moors never took the trouble of collecting wood for their fires, but waited until every Kafflé had supplied itself, when they sent Moosa to steal what he could. Owing to his small size, he succeeded in these pilferings, to my great amusement, for I found that though he stole from every one else, he never robbed me, but even supplied me when I was in want of fuel. He was repeatedly offered to me as a present by his master, and I have since been sorry I refused him: he was jet black, and extremely pretty. In all the difficult passes he rode on my right knee, telling me the way in which he was caught, and many long stories besides. If his master’s camels or mine chanced to stray, he would arm himself with a stick and go in search of them, nor would he give up the chase till he had driven them back; he was indeed a most engaging child, and I became very fond of him.
Wednesday, 23rd February. Thermometer 4°.—At seven the camels took the road by a wadey to the left, whilst I and the slaves went over an almost inaccessible mountain, called Nufdaiنوفدي, which brought us to the well at its foot, called Gutfaقتفا, about three miles distant from our last sleeping place; the water here is very good. We stopped an hour at the well to water and refresh the slaves and animals, and then wound along a wadey having many small Talhh trees in it, until we had made about six miles north-east, the mountains opening out on the left.
Old Baba Hassein, the Turk of whom I have made mention asnot giving his Bouzaferr, was now become quite a standing joke amongst the Kafflé. He spoke very bad Arabic, which, with his being very lame, and always requiring, when he walked, to be supported by two Negresses, made him the constant subject of ridicule. He had almost famished his slaves and camel-men, allowing them to drink once a day only, though he had a plentiful stock of water. Having a pipe, he amused himself with it day and night; and as smoking was to him the height of enjoyment, and he always rode a camel, he affected to wonder that the poor slaves should be fatigued or in want of refreshment. Every other owner had brought ready ground corn with him for the food of the Negroes; but Baba obliged his poor tired females to pound their corn every evening after their fatiguing march, in wooden mortars, which he had brought for the purpose. Though the whole Kafflé had been straitened for water, he actually brought two whole skins full to the well, and the Arabs told me that his slaves lay down and drank of it like camels. This man had been, about six years before, robbed of all his goods by the Tuarick, of the tribe of Haggar, when on the confines of the kingdom of Kashna, on his way from Tunis; but his address, or roguery, more than supplied his loss. He arrived almost naked at Sakkatoo, the residence of Bello (son of the celebrated Hatman Danfodio), the Sultan of the Fellata, introducing himself as a Shreef, or descendant of the Prophet, and telling a piteous story of his losses, which he since owns to have been greatly exaggerated. Bello, believing him to be a Shreef, took compassion on him, and made him a kingly present of a hundred Negresses, some of whom, then with him, were really beautiful; he also supported him for some time. The old man had traded with the Negresses, and had made a great deal of money, with which he was now returning.
We were also accompanied from Zeghen by an old Arab, who appeared to have nothing to do with loading or unloading thecamels, and who always prayed and slept apart from the Kafflé. I supposed him to be the father of some of the camel-men, and frequently gave him food, until I learnt that he was related to none of our companions, and that he had but one object in coming with us, which was to live upon us. He had a voracious appetite, and finding he could not obtain food at home without working for it, had been for many years in the habit of passing this desert with the Kafflés, on whom he quartered himself: his character was well known, yet the Arabs were unable to shake him off, fearing he would spread a report that they allowed him to starve, while they had plenty, which would have been a great reproach to them. At the well where I killed the camel, I gave him two days’ allowance, or about four pounds of food, which he devoured at once: he then dined with my drivers, and again with the Shreef Sadig’s men, and even managed to coax the hungry slaves out of part of their dinner. Having lost his teeth, he never chewed, but bolted his food, and was a complete glutton.
Thursday, Feb. 24th. Therm. 4°.—The Sheikh of Sockna, who was on his way to congratulate the Sultan, met us here and gave me fifty dollars, with letters from the Consul, Dr. Dickson, and Mr. Carstensen, who were all well. He also informed us of the death of the Bashaw’s eldest Mulatto son Sidi Mourad, of a pestilential disorder, which, he said, was reported to be the plague. We dressed ourselves in our best clothes, and passed on, in company with Lizari, before the Kafflé, for the town of Sockna, to prepare houses. After proceeding for about two hours over a plain sprinkled with shrubs, we passed a sandy flat and date trees: at about two miles from the town, having traversed north-east nearly fourteen miles, arrived at the town of Sockna. Before we entered it above a hundred friends of Lizari, who was once acting, and is nownominal Kaid of Sockna, came out to welcome him; and I, as his friend, received every attention. We had good houses provided for us; and the Kafflé arrived soon after; but notwithstanding the respect shown us by some of the inhabitants, there were others who very much molested us; and the boys were, I think, the most impudent I ever met with, even in the most riotous and disorderly streets in London. Finding we were strangers in the country, they amused themselves with rushing by dozens into our room, to stare at, and to rob us, if they could. When their curiosity had ceased, their talents for tormenting commenced; and a good camel whip became at last my only resource against their impertinence. After I had succeeded in turning them out, they surrounded the door, all being ready for a run, and called out, “Bring the whip, bring the whip! d——n your father! here are plenty of boys peeping!” At last I was obliged to rush out upon them, and catching two of the offenders, flogged them heartily; they then began to discover, that though a stranger, I was not to be trifled with.
I must observe that some of the men of Sockna were also most intrusive and impudent beggars. They crowded in upon us ten and twenty at a time, one party leaving us only to make way for another equally troublesome; one asked for powder, another for flints, knives, scissars, and all kinds of articles: at first I felt ashamed to turn them out, and therefore had recourse to entreaty that they would go away; but this had not the slightest effect, and I was obliged finally to show that I had profited by Mukni’s instructions, and to get rid of them by main force.
Sunday, February 27th.—To my great dismay I was again attacked by hemma, and was also under the painful necessity of killing my largest Maherry, finding he had broken his toe. I had intended him for Sir Joseph Banks. He was the finest I had everseen: seven feet eight inches from the ground to his hump, which was a low one. I was offered two dollars for him, but preferred killing him, to feed ourselves and fellow travellers. As we had to hire fresh camels here, we discharged those which had brought us from Morzouk, and I was heartily glad to get rid of the Sockna drivers, who are never contented, always trying to deceive, and never assisting any one.
We found that the Bashaw had sent chowses with eight horses, the property of his late son, to be disposed of in Fezzan for Negroes, and the purchasers were to sell them in the interior, so that they might never again be seen at Tripoli. The news brought by these people occasioned a general mourning, and the women, this day and the preceding one, were out on the sands, howling, beating the Tubbel, or alarm drum, tearing their hair and faces, and committing all sort of extravagancies, which always ended in frenzy, though they would in their hearts have rejoiced to learn that the whole Koramanlie race was extinct.
Almost all the houses here have, in the principal rooms, a black line drawn round them about breast high, with wetted gunpowder. If the woman of the house is delivered of a male child, this precaution prevents Iblis and the devil’s children, or imps, from coming into the room to tease or injure him; or, what is worse, to make him squint.
Our friend and travelling companion, Sadig, who had always been very agreeable and cheerful, this day left us, to our great regret, on his return to his native town, Wadan; whither he invited me to accompany him, assuring me that I should drink nothing but sweet milk and Lackbi, and that at every meal a new dish of whatever description I chose should be prepared for me. It was his intention to send his slaves to Mesurata on the sea-coast, to exchange them for sheep.
The mothers here, and indeed all the town’s-people, were at this time in great alarm, having heard that an Orfilly, or Arab of Benioleed, was prowling about in search of some child, whom he intended to kill and eat. This wretch had, from the effects of a loathsome disease, lost his nose, and been otherwise disfigured. Some one had prescribed to him, or he himself had conceived this dreadful remedy for his sufferings; and, in consequence, was on the watch for some young victim, in whose warm blood he was to wash himself, and then devour its flesh. An infant girl of two or three years of age had, a short time before, been rescued from him, and he was now wandering about the neighbourhood in search of another child. The Sockna Arabs had all agreed to shoot him if they could meet him, and Lizari had also given his promise to despatch him if he came in his way.
The Orfilly Arabs have almost universally a bad character, and are much disliked, not, however, without reason. A man murdered or robbed, a house fired, a camel stolen, or any lawless act, is almost always traced to an Orfilly; and certainly a more insolent, thievish, and begging set of men I never saw. They even exceed the Sockna men in this particular: “Give me, give me,” is their cry from morning till night.
The language of Sockna, as I mentioned when first we visited it on our way to Morzouk, is the same as that of the Tuarick, and is only spoken in this town; their neighbours of Hoon and Wadan not understanding it at all. I subjoin a few words, supplied by one of the natives.
Those words which I have marked with A are either Arabic, or derived from that language. The natives call their language Ertāna.
Monday, February 28th. Thermometer 9°.—This morning beingthe first of their Spring, and a day of general rejoicing, it is the custom to dress out little tents or bowers on the tops of the houses, decorating them with carpets, jereeds, shawls, and sashes. A gaudy handkerchief on a pole, as a standard, completes the work, which is loudly cheered by the little children, who eat, drink, and play during the day in these covered places, welcoming the spring by songs, and crying continually, “O welcome spring! with pleasure bring us plenty.” The women give entertainments in their houses, and the day is quite a holiday. From the top of our house these little bowers had a very pretty effect, every roof in the town being ornamented with one. They are called Goobba.
I saw this day four ears of corn perfectly ripe, which was very early for the season. The gardens here are excellent, comparatively with the others in Fezzan. They are surrounded by mud walls. Lemon trees had been lately introduced from Tripoli, and promised well, but too young to bear fruit. The dates here were very fine, and there were several sorts peculiar to Sockna. I was confined the chief part of the day to my bed with hemma.
No Arab that I ever met with has any idea of sweet milk, or, more properly, cannot conceive why it is not equally good when sour. As I was unable in my weak state to eat the food of the country, I made all the exertions I could to procure sweet milk; for though a great deal was brought me, it was always sour, and when I objected to it on that account, they said, “It is but now from the ewe, we mixed it with other to make it good.” Thus they always milk their ewes, mixing the fresh and the stale milk. As I had been four days confined to my bed, and constantly longed for this beverage in its sweet state, my repeated disappointments were severe.
In the gardens are found two kinds of rats, which, from thedescription given of them, must be curious. I despatched a man to catch me some, promising him a dollar if he brought four. One sort is black, and burrows in the ground; the other yellow, with a white belly and red eyes, and lives principally amongst the boughs of the palm trees.
Tuesday, Feb. 29th.—A man arrived from my friend, the Shreef Sādig, bringing two letters, one from himself, and the other from his brother the Shreef Abd el Ateef. These letters contained many kind wishes that I might succeed in all my undertakings, and return to their country; and concluded by saying, that prayers had been offered up in their Mosque for my safety. Four ostrich eggs, and two skins of peculiarly fine dates, accompanied these kind epistles.
Never was I so much out of patience with any people as with the natives of this place; night and day my door was surrounded, not by the poor alone, but by high and low. I really envied poor Belford his deafness, for had I too lost my hearing, I might have enjoyed a little peace. If any of these people obtained admittance, they sat down, and could not be induced to move for an hour or two, all the time flattering and begging. Ill as I was, these tormentors never allowed me to close my eyes. Belford, besides being deaf, understood but little Arabic, and could not assist me in keeping them off; consequently I was continually obliged to answer questions, to admit some, and to turn out others, and was thereby thrown into a fever far more severe than that which at first attacked me. The flies literally covered the walls, and fell by spoonfuls into all we eat or drank; in fact, so many evils overwhelmed me at once, that I have ample reason to recollect Sockna, and the miseries I endured there are too strongly imprinted on my mind to be ever forgotten. I managed, in spite of my weakness, the foregoing night, to go outwith a man to see his wife, who was afflicted with sore gums. She was handsome, with large black eyes, and a complexion almost as fair even as that of an Englishwoman. I prescribed as well as I could, by advising her to bleed, and then to wash her gums with bark, which I gave her, and which, I afterwards heard, completely cured her. My fee was honey from Soudan, meat, and what was of far more value than all, about a gill of sweet milk. We heard this day of the arrival of our friend Bouksaysa at Hoon, his native place, with a large Kafflé.
Wednesday, March 1st.—We were to have set out this morning; but, like true Arabs, our camel-men said their animals were ready, when they knew the contrary, and after being kept all day in suspense, we were obliged to defer our departure until the morrow. I know not how I should have managed to hire camels here, had it not been for my friend Lizari, who, while I was ill, took a great deal of trouble on himself. I was very anxious to obtain the longitude of this place, and twice corrected the chronometer by equal altitudes; but it went so badly, and stopped so often, that I gave up the attempt. I was this evening much amused by a boy who came from Hoon to see me, or rather to beg some money. He was the person I mentioned, as having advocated slave-hunting so amusingly to Mr. Ritchie and myself, when we were at that place: he came to the door and begged admittance, knowing that we were eating; some others also came begging at the same time, and wishing to turn him away; on which a vehement dispute arose as to who had the greatest right to my bounty. The boy said he came with me from Tripoli, the year before, in the same Kafflé, which they all agreed was no reason at all; but when he added that Mr. Ritchie and I had given him some money, and that he was therefore my friend, and had a right to expect more, all yielded to his superior claims. An Arab, when you have oncetreated him kindly, thinks himself entitled to be ever after a burthen on you, and to beg, or perhaps to steal, from you as long as he lives.
The Tripoli money is the currency of Sockna, which occasions great losses to the people, who are obliged to pay their taxes to Mukni in Spanish dollars, which they buy at extravagant prices. The Bashaw’s coin is now almost worthless.
It is not the custom here to bury the dates, which in consequence are very fine, and free from sand; but they keep them in store-huts built for the purpose. I imagine that their being so exposed may account in some degree for the multitude of flies found here.
All the houses are built on the same plan, having a small square court in the centre, from which a few steps lead to an open gallery, which is the principal room. The other rooms are on the ground-floor, and one or two open from the gallery; they have no windows, but receive their light from the doors, which are all curiously chequered and striped with a kind of black paint made from burnt wool, mixed with gum-water. As they are composed of many rounded pannels of date-wood, some appear like the backs of large old books. A little blackish rat was brought to me, which was really very curious; it had a head resembling that of a badger, with the same peculiar marks by the side of the face; its tail was long, black, and rather bushy. Belford and myself contrived to make a cage for it out of a tin canister, and I discovered that it had the power of clinging to the bars, and climbing with its back downwards: it was very fierce, but I had great hopes of being able to bring it home, as well as three other animals, called by the Arabs Dthubظمب, which resembled lizards in many respects, but were much more clumsily formed, and slower in their motions: their tails were broad, and covered with scaly spikes, and they could hang by their fore paws, which they had the power of closing on anyobject: their head and nose much resembled those of the hawk’s-bill turtle, and to a certain degree, they changed their colour as cameleons do.
I was rubbed this day with a mixture, which the Arabs consider excellent in cases of fever, and which really, though it made me very dirty, rendered my skin quite comfortable: it was composed of a small aromatic seed, the name of which I have forgotten, with lavender from Tripoli, and cloves, pounded together, and mixed with oil and vinegar; it is rubbed over the whole body and head, until nearly dry. My doctress was a white woman of Tripoli, who, in fear of her life, had escaped from thence.
About eighteen months before this period, the Bashaw, one evening, surprised his black wives and a party of their female friends, making merry, or in other words, very drunk and noisy, and playing all sorts of extraordinary pranks; on sight of him they fled in all directions, leaving in his presence, his wife or wives, with this Tripoline woman and a Negress slave. The latter had her throat cut immediately in the presence of her mistress, the wives were threatened with death, and the white woman, named Sleema, the doctress above-mentioned, received five hundred bastinadoes; she was then allowed to depart, but the Bashaw afterwards thought proper to send after her, with an order that she should be strangled. She was fortunate enough to escape, and after wandering about for some time, attached herself to Lilla Fātma, who was also exiled and given to Sheikh Barood, with whom she arrived safely at Fezzan. The poor woman, owing to severe illness, was on the brink of the grave during her stay at Morzouk, which made her determine on leaving the place, and braving every danger by a return to Tripoli. On my coming away, she put herself under my protection, and I promised to intercede with the Bashaw for her pardon. As she was emaciated and very weak, I allowed her to mount my camels,and I fed her during the journey. She certainly was not a very interesting figure, being much marked with the small-pox, and resembling, in form and person, a little fat man; and I was well aware that I should not make a very beautiful or virtuous addition to the Tripoli ladies: feeling, however, great pity for her, I consented to take her under my charge. Lilla Fātma, whom this unfortunate female had served for a whole year, allowed her to come away without giving her even a shirt, or money to help her on her journey.
Thursday, March 2nd.—We left Sockna, and rested for the day at some palms and sand hills, called Hammam,جمّام, four miles north of the town, where we found our former fellow-travellers already lying with their Kafflés. I last night had one of the yellow rats brought me, much resembling those found in Morzouk, having a sandy red back, and white belly; I put it into the cage with the other, who killed and partly ate it before morning. The first is called Guntshaقنشا. Before we set off this day, our friend Abd el Rahman gave us a fine bowl of milk and dates. My camels were hired at the rate of two dollars the Kantār, the drivers feeding themselves: some of the animals carried six Kantār, and were very fine creatures, in excellent condition. I perceived here that my Maherry, which I had sent out while we were at Sockna to feed in company with the camels, had received some injury in his foot, and was again lame. None of the camel men would allow Sleema, the white woman who had escaped from Tripoli, to ride, even though I offered three dollars for her passage, their animals being too heavily laden. The poor creature was therefore, in despair, obliged to return to Sockna. I gave her all the money I could afford, which was three dollars, promising to mention her to the Consul, in case she came to Tripoli and took refuge under our flag. She was all gratitude, and went crying back again to the house of a woman she had known when at Tripoli, and who had maintained her while we were at Sockna.