Kaftans, ready made and lined, of the above cloth.
Beadsof various kinds and colours.
Agatesand cornelians roughly cut in the form of hearts.
Armletsof glass, of various colours.
Brass anklets, armlets, and ear-rings; blunderbusses, pistols, swords, powder, and daggers; gilt stirrups, tents, soap of an inferior quality, musk, sugar, brown and white, in loaves, attar of roses, and jasmin; rosewater, aloes wood and camphor for perfuming the dead, zebed (or civet) of Mecca, and several other perfumes; silver ornaments for women; horses occasionally; bottles, ornamented boxes, tobacco and bowls for pipes; bead headbands for female slaves; sheet tin, and tin articles; red caps, Luban, a gum tasting much like resin, which people chew, and gum mastic; Habsia; handsome girls from Abyssinia, educated in Mecca or Egypt. They are now but seldom brought, the Fezzanners not being rich enough to purchase them as formerly.
From Bornou the Tibboo bring
Slaves, wooden bowls, kaffala, or gourd bowls; a few tobes or shirts; sheep, goats, and a little honey. Lion’s skins were once brought, but they are not now to be had, owing to the Sultan of Bornou buying them all up for his negresses to sleep on, to prevent their bearing children, as he has already a large family. It is implicitly believed that a woman who sleeps on a lion’s skin never can become pregnant.
From Tuat the Tuarick bring
Gold procured from Tembuctoo in dust and bars; now, however, rarely and in small quantities.
Silk and gold belts, with cases to hang the books in.
Tinned copper pots, basins, &c.
Light jereeds, or abas, of wool or cotton.
Horses, hair sacks, red, black, and yellow leather, ornamental bridles.
Korans, and other religious books, elegantly written, and often illuminated with letters of gold or rich colours.
Kohol.The black powder used for the eyelids.
Aaoud el Kagh.A sweetmeat made of honey.
Atria.A perfumed powder of cloves, wild lavender, and other sweet herbs, with which the Fezzan women powder their hair: the smell is by no means unpleasant.
Trifles and toys are also brought in great quantities.
In Soudan the people ride on Maherries.
Half-way between Nooffy and Ashantee is a country of great extent, called Gonja. It is said that the people have the power of taming the elephants, which there, as in Soudan, are found in great numbers. This country is traversed by the traders in their way to the Gold Coast.
The mountains of Kong, near Dagomba, are said actually to exist, but I know not whether under the same name. Beyond Dagomba the country is low and marshy, and at certain seasons is overflowed. All the people, who are not Moslems, in Soudan, Bornou, or indeed over the greater part of the interior, are called Kerdi, which means Kaffir, or “unbeliever,” and is considered as a term of reproach; but no distinct tribe called by that name exists.
The women of the whole of the interior have no hand-mills to grind their corn, but pound it in large wooden mortars, enlivening their labour by songs. The want of salt is much felt. The Tuarick of Aghades and Asben, of the tribes of Kelliwe and Atesin, trade to great advantage in that article, which they bring from the saltlakes of Agram (Doomboo of the maps), on the Desert of Bilma, the position of which I shall mention when speaking of the country of the Tibboo.
Drawn from Life by G. F. Lyon.On Stone by M. Gauci.Costume of Soudan.London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
Drawn from Life by G. F. Lyon.On Stone by M. Gauci.Costume of Soudan.London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
Costume of Soudan.
London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
The women of Soudan are much famed for their singing. They accompany themselves on a little instrument made of a gourd, with a skin stretched over it like a drum, having a handle and one string, which is played by a bow made with horse-hair. This instrument is called Erbab. Their other instruments are drums, bagpipes, rude cymbals, and a long gourd called Zantoo, which has a hole at each end, and is beaten against the calf of the leg, and stopped quickly by the hand.
The women of Bornou have not so many attractions as those of Soudan. They are neither so handsome, well formed, clean, nor good-tempered; and, in consequence, the slaves from the latter country bring much higher prices. The costume of the women of both these places is very remarkable, particularly in the manner of dressing their hair; those of Soudan stretching it over a high pad raised like a helmet, and the Bornou girls plaiting it in some instances close to the head, and in others letting it hang down like little bobbins. They wear a large shirt of cotton, or striped silk, and a wrapper in the form of a petticoat, called Zeneh. Their silver ear-rings, bracelets, and anklets, form a very pretty contrast with their jetty skins. In their own countries they wear no shirts, but a long wrapper tied over the breasts and under the arms.
Ghadams. I have frequently had occasion to speak of this place, which is situated on the Desert, fifteen days south-west of Tripoli. It is there that merchants going to Tembuctoo or Tuat assemble before starting for their long journey. This place was once independent, but a few years since was taken by the son of theBashaw of Tripoli, and has ever since remained tributary. The natives are constantly trading to Tembuctoo, and there are few of them who do not speak the language of that country, and of the Tuarick also. It is a singular fact, that two tribes live in Ghadams without having any communication with each other. From a person who had often traded there I obtained the following account, and he drew on the sand the small plan here shown.
[figure]
[figure]
A large circular wall is divided in the middle by another broad one, which separates the two towns. It has a gate through the centre, which is shut during any disturbance. The inhabitants of both towns were always at war with each other, and have even now occasionally very dangerous quarrels. Outside the towns are the gardens and date groves. The streets are all covered in, and are so dark in consequence, that at sunset a person is unable to find his way without a lamp. The houses are good, formed of mud, and of one story. The natives are Arabs. Those who reside in the two towns seldom see, and are as perfect strangers to each other,as if living many miles apart. No intermarriages or civilities exist between them, and a chance visitor from one town seldom escapes insult from the people of the other. In Benewazeed is a spring sufficiently large to supply both these places, as well as their gardens. There are five channels from it, by which the water is distributed in equal shares, at a certain allowance, in proportion to the houses or gardens to be watered. When the allowance for one place is poured into its proper channel, it is then dammed up, and another is supplied. There are people regularly appointed from each town to attend the distribution. The water is said to be rather warm and quite fresh, and runs in a channel communicating with the Mosque, through which it passes. There are many small rooms, into which those who wish to bathe in performing their ablutions may retire. The mouadden, or minaret of this Mosque is very high, and may be seen at the distance of a day’s journey. Each town has a Sheikh, and the two are under the command of a Kaid appointed by the Bashaw. There are no manufactories, but it is well supplied by the constant concourse of traders who pass through it. Many ostriches are caught in the neighbouring desert, and the feathers form an extensive article of commerce with Tripoli. In the southern half of the walls is a tribe of Arabs living by themselves, called Oulad Belail. From Ghadams to Iddri, in the Wadey Shirghi of Fezzan, is eight days; and to Ghraat, twenty days short journeys, or fifteen summer days.
September.—All the people were this month busily employed in getting in their soft dates, which were in great plenty, and became their chief support. There are two harvests of this fruit; one while the dates are soft, the other the latter end of October and beginning of November, when they are dried and candied.
Reports were brought from Tripoli that it was the intention of the Bashaw to send out another Sultan to supersede Mukni, andthat a larger tribute was expected than had ever been paid. These reports, corroborated by one or two private letters, very much alarmed the Sultan, and caused him to fall sick and take to his bed. He began, for the first time in his life, to pray at the regular hours ordered by the law; he ceased to swear, talked much of Paradise, and of the superiority of the other world to this. Mr. Ritchie was at this time very weak, and began again to be indisposed, but he constantly visited Mukni, and at last succeeded in restoring him to health; thus returning by kindness the ill treatment we had received from him. We both went frequently to the Castle, and learnt by degrees that some strong expressions of Mukni’s had come to the ears of the Bashaw, whose emissaries he expected would be sent to strangle him, and take all his wealth. Never was a haughty tyrant so completely humbled by his fears as this man: he sat constantly in a dark room, would receive only one or two visitors, and was nursed by negresses day and night; always speaking in a low voice, and, in his terror, betraying all his secrets.
Affairs were in this state when he determined on sending his chief man, Aboo bekr boo Khalloum, to Tripoli, that he might endeavour to mediate for him with the Bashaw. Presents of negresses and perfumes were to be sent as a propitiation. Ten fine girls of the Sultan’s household were intended for the Bashaw, with about one hundred dollars’ worth of civet, and three negresses for the bey, the heir apparent; two for his brothers, and one for each of the principal people about the Bashaw. I took this opportunity of sending my bill to the Consul, and Aboo bekr was to bring me back the money, Mr. Ritchie having written to state our distressed situation. Soon after the man’s departure we received a present of a sheep, and two loaves of Egyptian sugar, from Mukni, who now began to feel a little more at ease; but at the same time madesecret preparations for flight (of which we, however, were informed), by getting several of his horses shod at night, and causing all his women to grind corn and to make provision for a long and sudden journey. We were well aware, that should he be under the necessity of flying, he would not go empty handed; and it was pretty generally supposed that he would first revenge himself on the Mamlukes, whom he suspected of informing the Bashaw of his evil doings, and then take possession of our effects, which by his artful schemes had remained so long on our hands unpurchased. Our friends Yussuf and the old Hadje stole to our house several nights to give us an account of what was going forward, and, in consequence, we held consultations for our general safety. It was some satisfaction to know that all the Mamlukes, to the number of about ten, would have flocked to our house in the event of any disturbance; and our arms and ammunition being very superior to those of the Sultan, we should have stood a good siege had we been attacked.
Mukni’s treacherous intentions were, in the meantime, too apparent to allow of our feeling quite at ease, though he frequently came to visit us, and still professed the same friendship for us as before. One of our amusements on these occasions was to fire pistols at a mark at the end of the room. He was very fond of this kind of practice, and appeared to understand our arms; but we happily always succeeded in firing much better than himself or his followers; a circumstance of which, at this time, we were glad to have an opportunity of convincing him. I had some very small pistols, which he much admired, and he had given me frequent hints of his desire to purchase them, even many months prior to this period, but I did not choose to understand him. Mr. Ritchie agreed in the propriety of keeping our arms loaded and ready, and we frequently went into our yard to practise at a mark.
Mukni was at this time even more courteous and civil than usual; indeed so much so, that he overshot his mark, and confirmed us in our determination to be prepared for him. One of his Eunuchs who came to ask for medicine for a woman of the castle who wanted to bear children, hinted to us, that Mukni was preparing for a sudden escape, and that much mischief was apprehended before he turned his back on Morzouk. We could not be indifferent to this caution, and therefore lay all night with our pistols under our heads, and our other arms in readiness, conceiving we might soon be called upon to make use of them.
In this state we continued for some days, Mr. Ritchie lying on one side of the large room, I on the other, and Belford in a small room adjoining.—One night, at about 12 o’clock, I was awakened by Mr. Ritchie’s crying out in Arabic, “Who are you?” “Lyon, there is a man on the house top.” We all instantly started up; and I, being the most active of our emaciated party, was pushed up to the roof, while Mr. Ritchie and Belford ran to our yard, to cut off the retreat of the intruder. I saw no one, however, and though I ran along the tops of some neighbouring houses, could make no discovery. Our old Mamluke was sleeping on the top of his house, and rose instantly with his gun in his hand, to assist in the search. Meanwhile we all shouted to our neighbours, begging their assistance to look for any strangers who might endeavour to get on their terraces. In an instant all our friends were up, and on the look out; but, after the strictest examination, no person could be found.
Mr. Ritchie said, that as he was lying in bed, awake, he heard a slight noise overhead, when, in looking up, he saw a man stooping over our sky-light, or opening in the roof, as if for the purpose of examining into the room. After ascertaining where Mr. Ritchie slept, he knelt down, hanging his head as far over as he could, toobserve where I lay. Mr. Ritchie moved very gently, so as to reach his pistol, when the intruder disappeared, and he instantly called out to me. He stated, that he saw as low down as the man’s waist, that his body appeared naked, and that he had a white cap on his head.
The buildings here being covered with a mixture of sand and clay which easily receives the impression of feet, I endeavoured to trace on the top of ours the tracks of our visitor, and succeeded in finding one long print of a foot, exactly in the direction in which Mr. Ritchie had first observed this man. The impression did not resemble the shape of any of our feet; but was longer, and entirely flat, like those of most Negroes. Little doubt, therefore, could remain that a stranger had been there, evidently with no good intentions.
The next morning we waited on Mukni, informing him of what had occurred, when he affected to think Mr. Ritchie must have been delirious, and laughed very much at our alarm. Old Hadje Mahmoud was firmly persuaded it was Iblis, who had haunted our house ever since a man was murdered in it. The foot-mark, however, staggered him a good deal, and he offered to bring a Marāboot, who would by smelling it, and reciting a few prayers, tell us who had imprinted it. The more rational people agreed in our opinion, that it was a spy, but this was only ventured in private; in public they pretended to treat the matter as lightly as the Sultan did.
The preparations we had made, and our being observed to start up ready armed, perhaps secured us from any farther visits of the kind, and we took especial care to announce openly, that we would shoot the first person we saw even looking into our back yard. We never could positively ascertain why such a mysterious visit was made to us, but we strongly suspected Mukni to be the soleinstigator of it. He soon after again fell sick, and constantly professed his great regard for us.
After Boo Khalloum’s departure, some Arab Sheikhs were established as inmates of the castle, and Mukni frequently walked hand in hand with one of them, who was Chief of the tribe Barooda. This man was considered as being better acquainted with all the roads of the desert, than any other person in Fezzan. His own tribe were, at this time, near Egypt; and many suspected, that Mukni intended, with his assistance, to go off in that direction. But whatever might have been his destination, every route would have been equally dangerous for him, since he was detested by all the Arabs, and liable to be tortured and put to death by the Negroes, should he fall into their power.
For the present, however, leaving him confined in his castle, I shall speak more of the people of Morzouk. The ablest person of our sick party always went to the gardens to shoot pigeons, which had been numerous, but which now had emigrated to the countries to the southward. These visits to the date groves gave us many opportunities of observing the manner of cultivating the grain and esculents. The wells are generally about 20 or 30 feet in depth, and more resemble large deep ponds than what we call wells. The water lies on a stratum of grayish clay, is salt, and generally smells very badly: it is raised by means of sheers made of date trees, lashed together, and placed slopingly over the centre of the pit. One or two asses, according to the number of buckets used, are attached by a light harness and run down a steep bank, which renders their work less laborious. The men who attend also draw with them, and quicken their pace by pricking them on the flanks, with their small reaping hooks, in so rude a manner, that many of the poor animals are quite scarified. The water runs intosmall channels, which are formed round the garden, while the women and children, with scoops, distribute it as it may be wanted.
In some places where it is intended to allow the ground to “drink,” the embankments are opened, and the garden is completely flooded; thus the labour is very great, and absolutely necessary, as rain is unknown, and no dews ever fall. The people who attend the gardens, live in little huts constructed of palm branches, and about six feet in height. The dates, when quite dry, are buried in square holes, dug in the sand, and are afterwards covered over with it. Corn is made into little sheaves, and laid out until wanted: it is then beaten with long date-sticks, and asses are made to run over it. The ground on which these operations take place is a circle firmly clayed and quite clean: much sand is, however, unavoidably mixed with their corn. Pomegranate and fig-trees form an agreeable shade near some of the wells; they are so planted, as to stand in the centre of the water channels. The gardens are, as I have before stated, very small; yet it sometimes happens, that one alone produces all the vegetables and fruits peculiar to the country.
Near our house was the principal Mosque, to which the Sultan and ourselves went every Friday, as a matter of course; and every other day, we found it necessary to appear there once or twice. It is a low building, having a shed projecting over the door, which, being raised on a platform, is entered by a few steps. A small turret, intended to be square and perpendicular, is erected for the Mouadden to call the people to prayers. One of the great lounges is on the seats in front of the Mosque; and every morning and evening, they are full of idle people, who converse on the state of the markets, and on their own private affairs; or, in a fearful whisper, canvass the Sultan’s conduct.
The men of Morzouk, of the better sort, dress nearly like thepeople of Tripoli; the lower orders wear a large shirt of white or blue cotton with long loose sleeves, trowsers of the same, and sandals of camels’ hide: the shirts being long, many wear no other covering. When leaving their houses, and walking to the market or gardens, a Jereed or Aba is thrown round them, and a red cap, or a neatly quilted white cotton one, completes the dress: on Fridays they perhaps add a turban, and appear in yellow slippers. In the gardens, men and women wear large broad-brimmed straw hats to defend their eyes from the sun, and sandals made from the leaves and fibres of the palm-tree. Very young children go entirely naked; those who are older have a shirt: many are quite bare-headed, and in that state exposed all day to the sun and flies. The men have but little beard, which they keep closely clipped. The dress of the women here differs materially from that of the Moorish females, and their appearance and smell are far from being agreeable: they plait their hair in thick bobbins, which hang over their foreheads, nearly as low down as the eyebrows, and are there joined at the bottom, as far round to each side as the temples.
The hair is so profusely oiled, that it drops down over the face and clothes; this is dried up by sprinkling it with plenty of a preparation made of a plant resembling wild lavender, cloves, and one or two more species, pounded into powder and called Atrïa: it forms a brown, dirty looking paste, and, combined with perspiration and the flying sand, becomes in a few days far from savoury in appearance or odour. The back hair is less disgusting, as it is plaited into a long tress on each side, and is brought to hang over the shoulders; from these tresses, ornaments of silver or coral are suspended. Black wool is frequently worked in with these back locks, to make them appear longer. In the centre of the forehead, an ornament of coral or beads is placed, hanging down to the depth of an inch or two. A woollen handkerchief is fastenedon the back of the head; it falls over behind, and is tied by a leather strap under the chin. Each ear is perforated for as many rings as the woman possesses, some wear even six on one side; the largest, which is about five inches in diameter, hanging lowest, supported by a string from the head. Round the neck, a tight flat collar of beads, arranged in fancy patterns, is worn with coral necklaces, and sometimes a broad gold plate immediately in front. A large blue shirt is generally worn, the collar and breast ornamented with needle-work: the women also wear white shirts, and striped silk ones called Shāmi, which are brought from Egypt;—a Jereed and red slippers complete their dress.
They generally have those wrappers of a darker colour than those of the men. Some of the better class of women wear trowsers, not fuller in the leg than those worn in Europe; they are very prettily embroidered with silk at the bottom of the leg, and form a handsome contrast to the black skin of the wearer. Cornelians or Agates, roughly shaped in the form of hearts, are much worn as necklaces, and they have a variety of rings for the thumbs and fingers. A band of silk cord hanging round the body from one shoulder is generally filled with pendent leather or cloth bags containing charms. Round the wrists and above the elbows, Armlets of silver, gold, glass, horn, or ivory, are worn according to the ability of the wearer to purchase them; and on the ankles they have silver, brass, copper, or iron shackles. I have seen a pair of silver ones, which weighed 128 ounces; but these ponderous ornaments produce a callous lump on the leg, and entirely deform the ankle. The poorest people have only the Jereed and sandals. Both men and women have a singular custom of stuffing their nostrils with a twisted leaf of onions or clover, which has a very disgusting appearance. The men, not using oil, are much cleaner than the women; but the whole race of them, high and low, apparently clean orotherwise, are abominably lousy; and they make no secret of it. I have frequently observed the Sultan, when detecting an interloper, moisten his thumb to prevent its escape, and then demolish it with great composure and dignity. Some of the neighbours whom we visited, whilst reposing on their carpets, would send for a slave to hunt for these tormentors on their shirts; and it is a great recommendation to a female slave, on sale, to say that she is well skilled in this art, and in that of shampooing.
About the 20th of September, Mr. Ritchie again became ill, and was confined to his bed; and though Belford had, in some degree, recovered his health, he was completely deaf. We hired a woman to cook for us, at a dollar a month; but she was only required to come once a day to bake our bread, or to make our cusscussou, as we were now on an allowance. It often happened, that when she had stolen half our pittance, we were obliged to fast until the morrow. In all our troubles, however, I struggled to keep up my spirits; and, in the evenings when Mr. Ritchie had composed himself to sleep, I sometimes accompanied Mohammed (who was civil to me on account of some tobacco I possessed) to the parties of the natives, where I joined them in dancing, and drinking Lackbi and Booza. The latter is a liquor resembling in taste bad thick beer, and is made of dates, the flour of Gussub, and water; it ferments in the course of a night, and on becoming sour, is fit for drinking: it is preferred when thick, and it soon intoxicates.
As these meetings were not very select, I was obliged to promise secresy; for, had it been known that Mohammed or myself ever tasted such unlawful beverage, we should have been looked on as downright kaffirs. The people who formed these parties were generally of the lower class, although I once detected amongst them the religious old Kadi himself, in a state very far from sober, and listening to a woman playing the Erbab; but I found, by occasionallymixing with them, that I became better acquainted with their language and customs, which I knew would be of essential advantage as I proceeded southward. I also acquired many friends who, as far as their power extended, were of much assistance to me. Mohammed condescended to join in the dances, becoming always very much intoxicated, and I frequently remained the only sober person amongst them; so that I was able to make observations, and to be much amused by my companions. As on all these occasions we were with closed doors, in an open court, the women played to us on the Erbab, and really produced a very pleasing, though a wild melody: their songs were pretty and plaintive, and generally in the Soudan language, which is very musical.
At some of our parties, a woman sang a song, which she said was much admired by the brother of the last Sultan, whose name was Sidi Montesor; and from certain expressions in it, I discovered that it was the same mentioned by Horneman; and what was singular enough, it was sung by the same woman: she recollected that traveller, as having often been at the castle when she performed there. Some of these songs abound with poetical images;—for example, a lover will compare his mistress to a young date just ripened; the jetty hue of her skin, to the wing of a raven; her teeth to pearls; her eyes to the sun; and her breath to the attar of roses; her words to musk; her voice to the erbab; and her kisses to honey, or the sugar brought from Egypt. The Arab songs are also very pretty, and generally in the same style. A young man once took much pains to teach me one; composed, as he said, by a relation of his own. He sang it, as is the Arab custom, in a voice low and monotonous, though far from disagreeable. The hero of the piece is one of the Waled Suliman; he is riding to see a girl whom he admires, but who belongs to another tribe.—As nearly as I can recollect, the words ran thus:
“Here I am, well mounted, on a horse whose ears are like pens, who runs like an antelope, and knows none but his master. My new red cap becomes me well; my sword is sharp, my pistols well cleaned, and my belt shines in the sun. As the heart of a pigeon beats when she finds she is robbed of her young, so will my love’s heart beat when she sees me. She will not allow the dog to bark, and she will leave the tent as if in search of wood. Should her kinsmen see her with me, she shall not fall under their displeasure. I will lift her on my horse, and fly with her; for my steed has ears like pens, he runs like an antelope, and knows none but his master. My new tagaïa becomes me well; my sword is sharp, my pistols clean, and my belt shines in the sun.”
The natives have a variety of dances, of which two or three are peculiar to the country. The parties assemble on the sands, in the dusk of the evening, when a number of young men and women range themselves side by side, and dance to the sound of drums, to which they keep very good time. The men have a rude kind of iron cymbal in each hand, which opens and shuts: this they beat in the manner of castanets; both sexes singing at the same time in chorus. The movements consist in stepping forward, the whole line at once, at a particular turn of the tune, as if to catch something with their two hands, which they hold out; they balance themselves a short time on the advanced foot, and then step back, turning half round, first to one side and then the other. The whole line then moves slowly, in a circle, round the musicians who form the centre, and who all join in the dance.
There is nothing improper or immodest in this exhibition; but on the contrary, from its slowness and the regularity of its movements, it is extremely pleasing and elegant. Another dance is performed by women only, who form a circle round the drummers, and occasionally sing a lively chorus; one advances, and with her armsextended, foots it to and from the drummers, two or three times, until a change of tune, when she runs quickly backwards, and falls flat down. The women behind are ready to receive her, and by a jerk of their arms, throw her again upright; on which she once more turns round, and resumes her place, leaving the one next in succession to her to go through the same movements, all of which are performed in the most just time; the whole party occasionally enlivening the music, by their shrill and extraordinary cry of joy. The dancing in the houses is not quite so pleasing as that in public, and as for decency it is quite out of the question; no man or woman standing up, unless to throw themselves into a variety of indelicate postures. The male slaves have many dances, in which great activity and exertion are requisite. One consists in dancing in a circle, each man armed with a stick; they all move, first half and then quite round, striking, as they turn, the sticks of those on each side of them, and then jumping off the ground as high as they can. Another is performed by boys, and they have no drum, but keep chorus, by singing in a particular manner, La illa il ’Allaلاالله الاالله. “There is no God but God.”
The Sultan had frequently requested Mr. Ritchie to visit his children, and some of his negresses, when they were indisposed, and he had, in consequence, frequently attended them; but now being himself confined by illness, I was allowed to prescribe for them, and had, therefore, frequent opportunities of observing the interior of his family, which would not otherwise have been afforded me. I was much struck with the appearance of his daughters, one of three, the other of one year and a half old, who were dressed in the highest style of barbarian magnificence, and were absolutely laden with gold. From their necks were suspended large ornaments of the manufacture of Tembuctoo, and they had massive gold armlets and anklets of two inches in breadth, and half an inch inthickness, which, from their immense weight, had produced callous rings round the legs and arms of the poor infants. They wore silk shirts, composed of ribbons sewed together in stripes of various colours, which hung down over silk trowsers. An embroidered waistcoat and cap completed this overwhelming costume. Their nails, the tips of their fingers, the palms of their hands, and the soles of their feet, were dyed dark brown with henna. I had viewed with amazement and pity the dress of these poor little girls, borne down as they were by finery; but that of the youngest boy, a stupid-looking child of four years old, was even more preposterous than that of his sisters. In addition to the ornaments worn by them, he was loaded with a number of charms, enclosed in gold cases, slung round his body; in his cap were numerous jewels, heavily set in gold in the form of open hands, to keep off the effects of the “Evil Eye.” These talismans were sewn on the front of his cap, which they entirely covered. His clothes were highly embroidered, and consisted of three waistcoats, a shirt of white silk, the women only wearing coloured ones, and loose cloth, silk, or muslin trowsers.
The costume of the Sultan’s court, or hangers on, is strictly Tripoline, and as fine as lace or presents of cast off clothes can make them. It is the custom with Mukni, in imitation of the Bashaw, to bestow occasionally on his principal people some article of dress. These presents are made with much affected dignity, by throwing the garment to the person intended to be honoured, and saying, “wear that;” the dress is immediately put on in his presence, and the receiver kneels and kisses his hand in token of gratitude. I once saw the old Kadi, who is very corpulent, receive as a gift, a Kaftan, which was so small for him, that when he had squeezed himself into it, he was unable to move his arms, and was in that condition obliged to walk home.
Each of the Sultan’s sons has a large troop of slaves, who attend him wherever he goes; they are generally about the same age as their master, and are his playmates, though they are obliged to receive from him many hearty cuffs without daring to complain. The suite of the youngest boy in particular forms a very amusing group, few of them exceeding five years of age. One bears his master’s Bornouse, another holds one shoe, walking next to the boy who carries its fellow. Some are in fine cast off clothes with tarnished embroidery, whilst others are quite, or nearly naked, without even a cap on their heads; and the procession is closed by a boy tottering under the weight of his master’s state gun, which is never allowed to be fired off.
In Morzouk the luxuries of life are very limited, the people subsisting principally on dates. Many do not, for months together, taste corn, and when obtained, they make it into a paste called Aseedaاسيد, which is a softer kind of Bazeen. Fowls have now almost disappeared in the country, owing to the Sultan’s having appropriated all he could find for the consumption of his own family.
The sheep and goats are driven from the mountains near Benioleed, a distance of four hundred miles; they pass over one desert, which, at their rate of travelling, occupies five days, without food or water. Numbers, therefore, die, which of course raises the price of the survivors. They are valued at three or four dollars each when they arrive quite skeletons, and are as high as ten or twelve when fatted. Bread is badly made, and baked in ovens formed of clay in holes in the earth, and heated by burning wood; the loaves, or rather flat cakes, are stuck into the side, and are thus baked by the heat which rises from the embers. Cusscussou, Dweeda, and Mogatta, are the best food they have.
The mills are of the same description as the hand-mills of the Arabs. The corn, when ground, is tolerably fine; but the unavoidablefriction of the stones causes much grit to mingle with it. In all their food, those who can afford it mix as much grease and red pepper as possible. A quart of butter is sometimes poured over the doughy mess for one man, who generally manages to finish it. This butter is brought in goats’ skins from the Syrtis, and other parts of the sea-coast; is very rancid, and from having been boiled previously to putting it in skins, is as liquid as oil: it is considered a great dainty, and is very dear. Shahm, or salt boiled suet, is brought by the same people who trade in butter. Oil is the produce of Benioleed, Mesurāta, and the Gharian Mountains. All the animals live on dates. Horses and asses are fed on the fruit; camels, sheep, and goats, on the stones, which the women break up by hammering them on some hard substance. This is the general occupation of females, who are not employed to work in the gardens.
October 1st.—This was the great feast called Aid el Kebire, which is to commemorate the meeting of the pilgrims at Mecca, and their offering sacrifices on holy ground. On this occasion each master of a family feeds his wives, children, and slaves on meat, and it is considered meritorious in him to kill, with his own hands, any animals he may purchase. By chance the Sultan recollected us at this festival, and sent us a lamb, which was a treat we little expected. Mr. Ritchie being weak and nervous, I, as in duty bound, became the butcher, and performed my task with great alacrity. Animal food was such a novelty to us, that we actually were tempted to eat too much, and in consequence the next day we all fell ill.
No good Moslem will eat of an animal which has not had its throat cut in a particular way, and “In the name of God.” We had never offered meat, having, indeed, none to offer but such as was killed in the markets; but on this occasion we found the mostscrupulous ready to accept, and perfectly satisfied with the lawfulness of the food, although when we first came into the country they would not eat pigeons, which were killed by us, fancying that in cutting their throats we had omitted the prescribed ceremonies.
At this period the Sultan became a little better, and began to give Belford a great deal of trouble, by employing him to repair his three field-pieces, the wheels and carriages of which were much out of order. There was great difficulty in explaining to the blacksmiths how to make large nails, or to bend the iron for the wheels, and, in Belford’s weak state, he found it a very laborious task to overlook and instruct them. He, however, was rewarded with wholesome food, with which we could not have supplied him at home, the Sultan daily sending him some rice and meat whilst at his work. The poor fellow often thought of us, and wished we could have partaken of his good fare. This job being at last finished, I was consulted by Mukni respecting the construction of a coach, and I promised him that if he could manage to procure good wood for the purpose, Belford should make it, provided Mr. Ritchie did not object, and that I would train four horses to run in it.
I anticipated much pleasure and amusement in this new occupation, as I had at the time nothing to interest or divert me. Mukni sometimes, in high good humour, sent us a few fresh dates of a peculiar kind, of which Mr. Ritchie was very fond, and even extended his generosity so far as to allow of our cutting two palm-trees out of a million and a half, for Lackbi.
Belford now began to contrive the coach in question, and out of an old Shiblia and some boxes, he made a body, six feet in length, three in breadth, and four in height. This he covered over like a higgler’s cart, with an arched top, having a door open behind, by which a person could easily get in; but Mukni finding he could squeeze himself into a smaller compass, had it reduced in such away, as to render it necessary for him to be pushed in and shot out like a sack of coals. The body being completed, and springs being out of the question, it was mounted on two strong poles, which did duty as shafts; and to these were fixed two wheels from one of the field-pieces, so that the carriage stood at about three feet from the ground. The Sultan never for a moment quitted the place where Belford was at work, and was all delight at the progress which he made. Numbers of people came to see it, and many asked if that was the kind of vehicle in which our King and his wives used to ride. I was frequently puzzled how to answer; for to say the truth, though Belford, considering his want of materials, had done wonders, it very much resembled one of those little market carts which are dragged about London by donkies. It soon, however, lost that appearance, by being covered with a splendid hood of scarlet cloth, and having a bed laid inside of it. The shafts, body, and wheels were painted green, though not very durably. The Sultan had some verdigris, which he had brought from Tripoli; part of this was mixed with olive oil, which, not drying, was scraped off, but the rest being prepared with vinegar, formed a wash which answered his fondest expectations. The carriage was now as gaudy as the Sultan could wish, and he was the sole and happy possessor of it; but a serious inconvenience soon presented itself: the coach was not large enough to allow of a place for a driver, and his horses were too spirited to be trusted alone with such a small state-carriage. After devising many plans to remedy the defect, we found we had but one expedient left, which was to convert the vehicle into a gig. Accordingly, a jack of all trades, who was a very ingenious fellow, made, by my directions, a set of harness tolerably well, except that the little pad on the horse’s back weighed above fifty pounds. This, however, was soon reduced; but when the animal was put into the shafts, we discovered that the carriage was so low as to form anangle of at least twenty-five degrees with the ground. The Sultan’s head would consequently be about a foot lower than his feet; but as he intended at any rate sitting with his face to the horse, he thought nothing of this inconvenience.
His Majesty indulged himself with many rides in the space near the Castle, and in one instance through the town, the coach being drawn by slaves. He, however, at last determined to venture a ride into the country with the horse to draw him. The animal being put into the vehicle, and led slowly through one little gate to where Mukni stood, made an attempt to run through another to his stable; the man who led him being frightened, suffered him to set off at full speed. The gate brought him up, one of the wheels knocking down the gate-post and part of the wall, but the carriage itself remained undamaged. This proof of its great strength quite charmed every one, and it was at last decided that a large saddle should be put on the horse, and that Baba Ismael, the Turkish cannoneer, should ride him, and direct the whole machine. Mukni, by way of showing his approbation of Belford’s talents, gave him seven dollars, which he brought home to us in triumph, and which really saved us when on the very brink of starvation. This piece of good luck was soon followed by another, for within a day or two afterwards I managed to sell a saddle for eight dollars to a Tibboo.
Mr. Ritchie again got a little better by the middle of the month, but continued so very silent and low spirited, that we feared he would soon relapse.
Some Kafflés of the Tibboo now came in with slaves, and our horses having got a little more into condition, owing to the great cheapness of the dates at harvest time, we made many attempts to sell them. From my having sent a bill to the Consul, we soon expected money, and Mr. Ritchie empowered me, in the meantime, to dispose of one of our horses. Accordingly, after a good dealof manœuvring, I succeeded in getting the Tibboo to come and examine them, the Sultan having given us leave to sell them if we could. I often drenched the horses with water when they were not thirsty to increase their size, and to improve their appearance, and at length sold a grey horse, given by the Bashaw to Mr. Ritchie, for seventy dollars, twenty of which, with a negress, valued at thirty-two, were paid us on taking the animal away; the remainder was to be given us when the man had sold his slaves. We sent the girl, who was a native of Mandra in Bornou, and about thirteen years of age, to Hadje Mahmoud’s daughters, until she was able to cook for us. Mr. Ritchie was witness with Belford to my liberating her in due form from slavery; but as we were much in want of a servant, it was settled that she was not to return to her native country, my ticket of freedom being only to prevent all chance of her being sold.
We economised, as well as we could, our small allowance of money, which, however, soon became much reduced, as we had incurred many debts, which we now punctually paid. We laid in a stock of corn, which for a time afforded us a secure resource. Within the last two or three months we frequently had passed a whole day without food.
Belford and I fell ill about this period, and were both confined to our beds; he with a bilious fever, and I with severe pains in my back and head, which frequently caused delirium. I had repeated attacks of ague and fever (called Hemma by the natives) from the beginning of August, generally about three times a week, and sometimes more frequently, which had much weakened me, and brought on a decided liver complaint, as well as an affection of the spleen. Fortunately, however, my spirits were good, or I must have sunk under so many attacks. In this month about twenty Tripoli merchants died from the effects of climate, bad water, and the want ofnourishing food; even many of the natives were very ill, and it was quite rare to see a healthy looking person. I remained a week in bed, and arose from it quite a skeleton; Belford was still in a very dangerous state.
Drawn from Life by G. F. Lyon.On Stone by M. Gauci.Negresses of Soudan.London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
Drawn from Life by G. F. Lyon.On Stone by M. Gauci.Negresses of Soudan.London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
Negresses of Soudan.
London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
One night, as we were all sitting pensively on our mat, our friend Yussuf, the Mamluke, came in, and addressing Mr. Ritchie, said,
“Yussuf, you and Saïd are my friends; Mukni has behaved to you as he has done to us, and hopes you may die that he may secure to himself all your goods. You seem very melancholy, and never speak; answer me one question, do you want money?” Mr. Ritchie having acknowledged that he did, Yussuf rejoined, “I do not myself possess any, but I will go and borrow some for you: how much do you require?” Twenty dollars being the sum named by Mr. Ritchie, our kind friend went out, and soon after returned, bringing us thirty! an act of generosity so unlooked for, that we were wholly incapable of thanking him as he deserved. This seasonable supply enabled us to buy good food, and to make some amends for our late privations. We soon became in better health, and Mr. Ritchie’s spirits began to brighten up.
Belford, on his recovery, assisted me to make a little flag-staff with a topmast, on which we placed rigging and a small vane instead of colours, Mr. Ritchie not wishing to hoist our little union jack. This contrivance brought us many visitors, who were much entertained at seeing the vane turn round; but the greatest part of them hinted pretty plainly, that we must be fools for wishing to see what quarter the wind came from, which they could not possibly imagine to be of the least consequence to us. At this season, Scorpions were very numerous in all the houses, and I think more particularly so in ours. I had acquired, at Tripoli, a knack of catching without receiving harm from them, and in consequence had thecredit of possessing a charm against them; however, I once received a very severe sting. When going to sit down on our mat, I inadvertently put my hand, it being dark, on a small scorpion, which instantly stung me. Aware of what it was, I procured a light, and hastened with a lancet, to cut to the bone and to suck out the blood: Mr. Ritchie then burnt a deep hole with caustic. The pain remained very acute for some time, and my right side felt rather paralysed; but, owing to the precautions which I had taken, I passed a good night, and the next morning found no inconvenience except a little swelling, and the usual soreness attendant on a burn. Many instances are known of children dying of the sting in three days.
There is a little reptile found in the sand here, called Aselis; it somewhat resembles a lizard in form, and has the power, when alarmed, of instantly burying itself in the sand. If one is thrown down from the hand, it sinks so perpendicularly on the spot where it falls, that it can immediately be found again. These little creatures are eagerly bought by the girls and married women, for the purpose of ascertaining how many children they shall have. By stretching them, the spine will immediately crack, and the women most religiously believe, that for every sound they shall bear a child.
The reptiles are few, and consist of lizards, and small snakes, some of a venemous kind, called El Effa. Scorpions and spiders are also very numerous; one of the latter being of an immense size, and called Agrab el riahhعقرب الريحor scorpion of the wind, from its great swiftness in running; its bite is venomous, but not dangerously so. There is a large species of lizard called Warral, which is about thirty inches long from the nose to the tip of the tail; it is very fierce, and when it bites, never relinquishes its hold until it dies, or has its mouth forcibly opened. We had one which kept a piece of rope in its mouth for four or five days, and in thatstate died. A blow from the tail of this reptile, which it uses like a whip, is much dreaded, as the natives suppose, that a person so struck can never be the parent of a child. One of these having struck my horse on the nose, I was seriously told that he would be incapacitated from becoming the father of a foal.
Tobacco is very generally chewed by the women as well as the men; they use the Trona or Soda with it. Smoking is rather the amusement of a great man than of the lower class, the mild tobacco being very dear, and pipes not easily procured.
On the 28th October, during the time I was in bed, we had another grand rejoicing day, called Aid el Tagtāga, which is to welcome in the new year of the Hegira, 1235 years having now passed since the flight of Mohammed from Mecca to Medina. Mukni having given a couple of his cast off women to two of his slaves, one of whom was secretary and barber, and the other groom, we had gay doings in the little square before our Mosque. The first night the barber and secretary (who was the greatest man of the two) was seated in state on a carpet and mats placed on the ground, in the centre of the square, supported on each side by a friend, who, as well as himself, was covered with fine borrowed clothes, though the bridegroom, of course, shone most bright. He was very solemn and dignified, having a lighted candle and lamp placed on the ground before him. The men and women sung round him until near midnight, treating him with great respect. He held a fan in his hand, and occasionally bowed to the company. The bride was then brought from the castle, surrounded by a great concourse of women, who were vociferating in rapid succession, their cries of joy. She held a lighted candle in her hand, and had on a profusion of silver and bead ornaments: she was quite black and very handsome, and had borne three children by the Sultan, all of whom had died. The bridegroom did not deign to look at her, but suffered the processionto pass along to his house; when, after waiting about half an hour, he rose in a stately manner, and leaning his hands on the friends who walked on each side of him (in the manner of the Bashaw of Tripoli, and the Sultan of Fezzan), he slowly proceeded home; the dancers following him and singing songs of congratulation. The second night passed in much the same manner; and, on the following day, I saw the bridegroom, who had been a few hours before glittering in scarlet and gold, cleaning a horse in the street, with a ragged shirt on.
I had many opportunities of observing the Fighi and their scholars, sitting on the sand. The children are taught their letters by having them written on a flat board of a hard wood, brought from Bornou and Soudan, and repeating them after their master. When quite perfect in the alphabet, they are allowed to trace over the letters already made; they then learn to copy sentences, and to write such small words as are dictated to them. The board generally used is in this form: