Ceremony observed at landing the last stone.
Captain Wilson and his crew had made preparations for landing the last stone, and, as may well be supposed, this was a day of great interest at the Bell Rock. “That it might lose none of its honours,” as he expressed himself, the Hedderwick praam-boat, with which the first stone of the building had been landed, was appointed also to carry the last. At 7 o’clock this evening, the seamen hoisted three flags upon the Hedderwick, when the colours of the Dickie Praam-boat, Tender, Smeaton, Floating-light, Beacon-house, and Light-house, were also displayed, and the weather being remarkably fine, the whole presented a very gay appearance, and, in connection with the associations excited, the effect was very pleasing. The praam which carried the stone was towed by the seamen in gallant style to the Rock, and, on its arrival, cheers were given as a finale to the landing department.
Monday, 30th.
Ceremony at laying the last stone of the walls.
The Ninetieth or last course of the building having been laid to-day, which brought the masonry to the height of 102 feet 6 inches, the Lintel of the light-room door, being the finishing-stone of the exterior walls, was laid with due formality by the writer, who, at the same time, pronounced the following benediction: “May the Great Architect of the Universe, under whose blessing this perilous work has prospered, preserve it as a guide to the Mariner.”
Tuesday, 31st.
Machinery partly dismantled.
The artificers were employed to-day in taking down the tackle and machinery from the store-room and kitchen-floors, which were put on board one of the praam-boats, and conveyed to the Tender. The joinerswere assisted at low-water by some of the seamen, in preparing the lower parts of the beams of the Beacon-house, for receiving a coat of hot pitch and tar, as usual, before winter, to defend them against the ravages of the insect which, as before noticed, had made a considerable impression on the soles of the beams, where they rested upon the Rock. The Patriot had sailed for Mylnefield Quarry; and the Smeaton, being now discharged, left the Rock for Lord Elgin’s works at Charlestown, to load limestone for the light-keepers’ houses, to be built at Arbroath. The Tender continued at her moorings, and took on board from time to time such implements and apparatus as were no longer wanted at the Rock. The Floating-light, from the uncertainty attending the period of finishing the light-room and its apparatus, and consequent exhibition of the light from the building, had, perhaps, a long time yet to remain at her station; but one of her boats was to be regularly sent with five seamen, to assist at the operations on the Rock as formerly.
1810, August.
Wednesday, 1st.
Foot and shaft of Balance-crane taken down.
The artificers and seamen were employed to-day, as yesterday, in clearing the building of lumber, and in coating the beams of the Beacon with a mixture of tar and pitch. Thebodyof the Balance-crane was also supported with beams on the walls of the light-room, in such a manner that its machinery could be applied to lowering its foot and shaft down through the apertures left for this purpose in the floors of the several apartments. The machinery of this useful implement thus supported, was yet to be used in laying centre-stones in the floors of the store-room, kitchen, bed-room, library and light-room; and also in taking up the cast-iron sash-frames and other weighty apparatus of the light-room.
Thursday, 2d.
The several apartments of the building being now entirely cleared of the tackle and apparatus connected with raising the materials, the artificers were in readiness for laying the centre-stones of the several floors.
Friday, 3d.
Lord Kellie with a party visits the Bell Rock.
This morning, between 7 and 8 o’clock, the works of the Bell Rock were visited by the Earl of Kellie, the Honourable Mr Methven Erskine, Mr David Monypenny, Sheriff of Fifeshire and one of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses (now Lord Pitmilly), and his Lordship’s brother, Mr Alexander Monypenny. The party had left Cambo-house, upon the coast of Fife, at an early hour; but the wind being from the south-west, and blowing fresh, had rendered their passage very uncomfortable. When the boat reached the Tender, the party came on board, as it wastoo early in the tide for landing on the Rock, which was still under water; but when the railways made their appearance, the party proceeded to the western-wharf, and Lord Pitmilly having been the first of the Light-house Commissioners who had landed here, it was namedPitmilly Wharf. After viewing the Rock, which was now partially dry, they ascended to the Beacon-house, and passed along the bridge, with all its difficult steps, to the Light-house, where the servants had contrived to cover a table, made up with detached planks, on which the first breakfast was laid out in the Bell Rock Light-house. After having gone over the whole of the works, they left the Rock about mid-day.
Centre-stone of the Light-room floor laid by the writer.
At 3P. M., the necessary preparations having been made, the artificers commenced the completing of the floors of the several apartments, and at 7 o’clock the centre-stone of the light-room floor was laid, which may be held as finishing the masonry of this important National Edifice. After going through the usual ceremonies observed by the Brotherhood on occasions of this kind, the writer, addressing himself to the artificers and seamen who were present, briefly alluded to the utility of the undertaking, as a monument of the wealth of British Commerce, erected through the spirited measures of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, by means of the able assistance of those who now surrounded him. He then took an opportunity of stating, that toward those connected with this arduous work, he would ever retain the most heartfelt regard in all their interests.
Saturday, 4th.
Artificers leave the Rock.
When the bell was rung, as usual, on the Beacon this morning, every one seemed as if he were at a loss what to make of himself. There was, however, upon the whole, still much to do to the Light-house, which is only yet to be considered in the state of a house with its outward wall built; but, before being useful or habitable, it must be roofed over, internally finished, and provided with the necessary furniture and utensils. At this period, the artificers at the Rock consisted of 18 masons, 2 joiners, 1 mill-wright, 1 smith, and 1 mortar-maker, besides Messrs Peter Logan and Francis Watt, foremen, counting in all 25; and matters were arranged for proceeding to Arbroath this afternoon with all hands, as it now became necessary to new-model the works there. The Sir Joseph Banks Tender had by this time been afloat, with little intermission, for six months, during the greater part of which the artificers had been almost constantly off at the Rock, and were now muchin want of necessaries of almost every description. Not a few had lost different articles of their clothing, which had dropped into the sea from the Beacon and Building; some wanted jackets, others, from want of hats, wore night-caps; each was, in fact, more or less curtailed in his wardrobe, and, it must be confessed, that at best, the party were but in a very tattered condition. This morning was occupied in removing the artificers and their bedding on board of the Tender; and although their personal luggage was easily shifted, the boats had, nevertheless, many articles to remove from the Beacon-house, and were consequently employed in this service till 11A. M.All hands being collected and just ready to embark, as the water had nearly overflowed the Rock, the writer, in taking leave, after alluding to the harmony which had ever marked the conduct of those employed on the Bell Rock, took occasion to compliment the great zeal, attention and abilities of Mr Peter Logan and Mr Francis Watt, foremen, Captain James Wilson, landing-master, and Captain David Taylor, commander of the Tender, who, in their several departments, had so faithfully discharged the duties assigned to them, often under circumstances the most difficult and trying. The health of these gentlemen was drunk with much warmth of feeling by the artificers and seamen, who severally expressed the satisfaction they had experienced in acting under them; after which, the whole party left the Rock.
The writer meets with his assistants ashore.
In sailing past the Floating-light, mutual compliments were made by a display of flags between that vessel and the Tender; and at 5P. M.the latter vessel entered the harbour of Arbroath, where the party were heartily welcomed by a numerous company of spectators, who had collected to see the artificers arrive, after so long an absence from the port. In the evening, the writer invited the foremen and captains of the service, together with Mr David Logan, clerk of works at Arbroath, and Mr Lachlan Kennedy, engineer’s clerk and book-keeper, and some of their friends, to the principal Inn, where the evening was spent very happily; and after “His Majesty’s health,” and “The Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses,” had been given, “Stability to the Bell Rock Light-house” was hailed as a standing toast in the Light-house service.
Sunday, 5th.
The author has formerly noticed the uniformly decent and orderly deportment of the artificers who were employed at the Bell Rock Light-house, and to-day, it is believed, they very generally attended church, no doubt,with grateful hearts for the many narrow escapes from personal danger which all of them had more or less experienced during their residence at the Rock.
Monday, 6th.
Plans arranged for building Light-keepers’ houses at Arbroath.
Hitherto the account of these works has been given in the form of a Diary; but now that the chief difficulties of the undertaking are over, it is proposed to quote only particular dates in reference to their progress. At the meeting of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, held at Edinburgh in the month of July 1810, it had been resolved to purchase a piece of ground contiguous to the harbour of Arbroath, which presented an unobstructed view of the Bell Rock Light-house, on which a suite of buildings was to be erected, for the accommodation of the families of the light-keepers and seamen of the Tender, and also for the necessary store-houses. Mr Charles Cunningham, Secretary to the Light-house Board, accordingly corresponded with Mr John Nicol, writer in Arbroath, who purchased the ground for the site of these buildings, together with a small court-yard and bleaching-green, as arranged and laid out inPlate XII.In constructing these buildings, and enclosing an extensive piece of garden-ground for the use of this establishment, the artificers, who had just returned from the Rock, were now to be employed.
Duty on stone charged for these buildings.
The Patriot had returned from Mylnefield Quarry to Arbroath with the first cargo of stones, for the use of these operations, which were about to be landed duty-free, when the Custom-house officers interposed, demanding the duty of 33 per cent. on stone carried coast-ways, as the buildings at Arbroath were not considered as coming within the exemption granted for the Bell Rock Light-house. After representing the circumstances of the case to the Board of Customs at Edinburgh, it was found that another petition would have been required to the Lords of the Treasury, before the present exemption could be granted; but the extent of the duty in question being trifling, the Light-house Board declined making any further application, and the duty was therefore regularly paid for the stones of this compartment of the work.
Three years of the lease of the Work-yard given up.
The writer finding that the Bell Rock work-yard at Arbroath, which had been taken upon a lease of seven years, could be dispensed with after the term of Martinmas, thereby leaving three unexpired years of the tack still to run, the lease was cancelled by the landlord, on his being paid one year’s rentin name of damages. This afforded a satisfactory proof of the termination of the works, at least three years sooner than the period calculated upon at its commencement. The great circular platform in the work-yard, shown inPlate XII., which measured 42 feet in diameter, and was sunk 2 feet 6 inches under the level of the surrounding ground, used for laying and marking the courses of the Light-house, before they were shipped for the Rock, contained a great quantity of stones suitable for the interior walls of the light-keepers’ houses. The first operation of the builders, therefore, was to remove the stones of this platform to the site of the new buildings.
Friday, 9th.
Base-line measured on the Sands of Barry.
The writer, with a view to making a survey of the coast contiguous to the Bell Rock, or from Fifeness to the Redhead, embraced the present as a convenient time for measuring a base-line. For this purpose, the Sands of Barry, about 9 miles westward from Arbroath, were selected; and he provided himself with the following apparatus: a strong iron-chain of the length of 100 feet, carefully graduated; 5 wooden coffers, each 20 feet in length, 5 inches in width, and 3 inches in depth, on which the chain was to be stretched; 10 oaken stakes, 4 feet in length, and 4 inches square at the top, for marking off distances of 1000 feet; 10 picket-rods of fir timber, measuring 8 feet in length, with cross boards at the top; 2 spars of 20 feet in length, with small red flags for marking the termination at each end of the Line; and one of Messrs Miller and Adie’s best Theodolites. With these, he left the harbour of Arbroath at 5 on the morning of the 9th of August, in one of the Bell Rock boats, manned with six seamen, and accompanied by one of his assistants. At 8 o’clock they reached the small village called the Feus; and after walking about two miles and a half along the Sands of Barry, flag-staffs were erected at the extremities of the line intended to be measured, which, in relation to each other, were situate by compass S.W. ½ S., and N.E. ½ N. The next operation was to mark off the first 1000 feet of the line in a general way, with the picket-rods, into spaces of 100 feet. The wooden coffers, or troughs, for levelling and directing the chain, were then laid on the sands, which being naturally very flat, required only that certain places of the track should be partially cleared with the spade. The chain was then stretched by two of the seamen, to a degree of tension which they were directed to give it, by as regular and uniform a strain as possible; and the links being all previously examined, the distances were carefully marked with an iron pricker. Inthis manner, the whole length of a line, extending to 10,866 feet and 9½ inches was measured. This was altogether a most laborious operation, occupying 14 hours, including the short time the party were at their meals, which were taken on the field. The line having been thus gone over from North-east to South-west, the operation was reversed as a check, from South-west to North-east; the result of which was not a little satisfactory, as the second measurement only varied one inch from the first, though the line extended upwards of two miles. The weather was very favourable; the wind being westerly, and blowing gentle breezes, while the barometer remained steadily at about 29.78.; the temperature was marked three times a day, and averaged 54°. The angles and bearings of the Bell Rock and other objects having been taken from this base-line, were ultimately referred to in constructing the map of the coast delineated onPlate IV.
Trigonometrical Survey of Great Britain.
For a more complete and perfect mode of making such measurements, the reader may consult Colonel Mudge’s Account of the Trigonometrical Survey of England and Wales, in two volumes quarto; a work which shows the astonishing accuracy with which that great National Survey is conducted; and also, the correctness to which mathematical instruments have been brought; and strongly illustrates the difficulties which assail man, when he aims at absolute precision, even in the most simple of the arts.
Tuesday, 14th.
Artificers return to the Bell Rock.
The Smeaton having, in the course of the last ten days, lifted such of the moorings as could now be dispensed with, took the Dickie praam-boat in tow, and sailed for Leith, to load the cast-iron sash-frames of the Light-room. On her return to Arbroath, she took on board the stone-steps for the Light-house, 23 in number, to be erected between the passage of the entrance-door and the provision store, as will be seen from the section ofPlate XVI.With these she sailed to-day at 1P. M., having on board 16 artificers, with Mr Peter Logan, together with a supply of provisions and necessaries; who left the harbour, pleased and happy to find themselves once more afloat in the Bell Rock service. At 7 o’clock, the Tender was made fast to her moorings, when the artificers landed on the Rock, and took possession of their old quarters in the Beacon-house, with feelings very different from those of 1807, when the works commenced.
The Smeaton is in danger, and obliged to leave her Station.
The barometer, for some days past, had been falling from 29.90, and to-day it was 29.50, with the wind at N.E., which, in the course of this day,encreased to a strong gale, accompanied with a sea which broke with great violence upon the Rock. At 12 noon, the Tender rode very heavily at her moorings, when her chain broke at about 10 fathoms from the ship’s bows. The kedge-anchor was immediately let go, to hold her till the floating-buoy and broken chain should be got on board; but while this was in operation, the hawser of the kedge was chaffed through on the rocky bottom, and parted, when the vessel was again adrift. Most fortunately, however, she cast off with her head from the Rock, and narrowly cleared it; when she sailed up the Firth of Forth, to wait the return of better weather. The artificers were thus left upon the Rock with so heavy a sea running, that it was ascertained to have risen to the height of 80 feet on the building. Under such perilous circumstances, it would be difficult to describe the feelings of those who, at this time, were cooped up in the Beacon, in so forlorn a situation, with the sea not only raging under them, but occasionally falling from a great height upon the roof of their temporary lodging, without even the attending vessel in view, to afford the least gleam of hope in the event of any accident. It is true that they had now the masonry of the Light-house to resort to, which, no doubt, lessened the actual danger of their situation. But the building was still without a roof, and the dead-lights, or storm shutters, not being yet fitted, the windows of the lower storey were stove in and broken, and, at high-water, the sea ran in considerable quantities out at the entrance-door. In the course of this afternoon, the spring-tides being now at the highest, the bridge or gangway was also for a time rendered completely impassable, from the quantity of sea that constantly washed over it. The smith’s gallery, at the same time, was also partially broken up, and several bags of coal, a barrel of small beer, and a few casks, containing pozzolano, lime and sand, were all swept off the Beacon. When the sea left the Rock, it was likewise found that two of the cast-iron legs of the sheer-crane were broken, and that some pieces of the Railways had been torn up.
Thursday, 16th.
Mortar-gallery completely broken up.
The gale continues with unabated violence to-day, and the sprays rise to a still greater height, having been carried over the masonry of the building, or about 90 feet above the level of the sea. At 4 o’clock this morning, it was breaking into the cook’s birth, when he rung the alarm-bell, and all hands turned out to attend to their personal safety. The floor of the smith’s or mortar-gallery was now completely burst up by the force of the sea, when the whole of the deals and the remaining articles upon the floor were swept away, such as the cast-iron mortar-tubs, the ironhearth of the forge, the smith’s bellows, and even his anvil, were thrown down upon the Rock. The boarding of the cook-house, or storey above the smith’s gallery, was also partly carried away, and the brick and plaster-work of the fire-place shaken and loosened. At low-water, it was found that the chain of the moveable beam-crane, at the western wharf, had been broken, which set the beam at liberty, and greatly endangered the guy-ropes by its motion. It was observed, during this gale, that the Beacon-house had a good deal of tremor; but none of that “twisting motion” occasionally felt and complained of before the additional wooden struts were set up for the security of the principal beams; but this effect had more especially disappeared ever since the attachment of the great horizontal iron-bars in connection with these supports, instead of the chain-braces, shewn inPlate VIII.Before the tide rose to its full height to-day, some of the artificers passed along the bridge into the Light-house, to observe the effects of the sea upon it, and they reported that they had felt a slight tremulous motion in the building, when great seas struck it in a certain direction, about high-water mark. On this occasion, the sprays were again observed to wet the balcony, and even to come over the parapet-wall into the interior of the light-room. In this state of the weather, Captain Wilson and the crew of the Floating-light were much alarmed for the safety of the artificers upon the Rock, especially when they observed, with a telescope, that the floor of the smith’s gallery had been carried away, and that the triangular cast-iron sheer-crane was broken down. It was quite impossible, however, to do any thing for their relief, until the gale should take off.
Friday, 17th.
Tender returns to the Rock.
The weather moderated in the course of the last night, and the wind shifted to S.W., when the Tender, which had been for the last two days in the Firth of Forth, stood towards the Rock, and reached it at 7P. M., but could not come within speech of the inhabitants of the Beacon, though, from signals mutually exchanged, it appeared that all was pretty well. Captain Taylor next spoke the Floating-light, and found no complaint on board. They had, indeed, shipped several heavy seas, yet no damage had been sustained; and during the gale they rode with 60 fathoms of cable veered out. After making these enquiries, he stood towards Arbroath to get the Tender’s rigging refitted, and her moorings repaired, which had suffered in the gale. Knowing also that a new floor, and other articles, were wanting at the Beacon, he meant also to supply some of these; but on approaching Arbroath, there was stilltoo much sea upon the bar of the harbour, and he was obliged to stand off again to sea.
Saturday, 18th.
Smith’s Anvil, Bellows, &c. washed off the Beacon.
The wind shifted to the westward to-day, and the Tender got into Arbroath. In the mean time, Captain Wilson visited the Bell Rock with a well manned boat from the Floating-light, when he had the happiness to find Mr Peter Logan and his people in perfect health, though, in the course of the gale, they had at times been considerably alarmed, while the sea was making inroads upon their habitation. In searching about the Rock in quest of some of the articles which had been washed from the smith’s gallery, it is not a little remarkable, that so ponderous an article as the anvil, weighing 170 lb., should have been found in a hole at the distance of 60 feet from the Beacon, and that the iron pan or hearth of the forge, weighing about 100 lb., was found at the distance of 200 feet from it. Near to this lay one of the cast-iron mortar-tubs; but the smith’s bellows, and many other articles amissing, were never found. Captain Wilson foreseeing that there might be a want of fuel on the Rock from the late disaster, had very properly carried two bags of coal from the Floating-light; and, after landing these, he returned to his ship at 2P. M.
Thursday, 23d.
Light-room sashes landed. Captain Wilson is hurt by one of them.
Both the Tender and the Smeaton having been forced into Arbroath, were detained there with strong gales of westerly wind, till Monday the 20th, when they sailed for the Rock; the Smeaton, with the sash-frames of the Light-room on board, and the Tender, with a supply of provisions and necessaries for the Floating-light and Beacon-house. The wind being at W.S.W. and the weather more moderate, both vessels got to their moorings on the 23d, when all hands were employed in transporting the sash-frames from on board of the Smeaton to the Rock. In the act of setting up one of these frames upon the bridge, it was unguardedly suffered to lose its balance, and, in saving it from damage, Captain Wilson met with a severe bruise in the groin, on the seat of a gunshot wound received in the early part of his life. This accident laid him aside for several days.
Friday, 24th.
The Smeaton being now discharged, sailed again for other articles still wanted from Edinburgh, belonging to the Light-room frame. The masons at the Rock were busily employed in setting up the stair, and in dressing off and polishing the joints of the interior walls of the Light-house:For, although the stones had all been polished to a smooth surface in the work-yard, in order to give the apartments a cleanly and comfortable appearance, as plastering would have been quite unsuitable for such a situation, yet the walls in many parts required to be retouched, when they came to be examined in a more finished state. James Glen, of whom mention has already been frequently made, was assisted by the smith in refitting the gallery, and the other injured parts of the Beacon-house.
Monday, 27th.
Balance-crane removed from the top of the Building.
The sash-frames of the Light-room, 8 in number, and weighing each 254 lb., having been got safely up to the top of the building, were ranged on the balcony, in the order in which they were numbered, for their places on the top of the parapet-wall; and the balance-crane, that useful machine, having now lifted all the heavier articles, was unscrewed and lowered, to use the landing-master’s phrase, “in mournful silence.”
Wednesday, 29th.
Sir William Rae and Party visit the Rock.
The works were visited at this time by Mr Rae, Sheriff of Edinburgh, now Sir William Rae, Bart., Lord Advocate of Scotland, and Mr Adam Duff, Sheriff of Forfar, now of Edinburgh,ex officioCommissioners of the Northern Light-houses, who, as Members of the Bell Rock Committee, had individually taken much interest in the Light-house affairs. The party further consisted of General Brown, Captain Harry Stuart of the Royal Navy, Mr James Dickson of Leith, and Mr Charles Cuningham, Secretary and Cashier to the Light-house Board. The writer had the pleasure of embarking with these gentlemen at Leith on the 28th, in the Bell Rock Tender, and, after calling at the Light-houses of Inchkeith and Isle of May, the vessel, in the course of the night, got towards the Rock, and next morning the party landed, and minutely examined every thing connected with the operations of the Light-house and Beacon. On this occasion, one of the principal landing-places was named Rae’s Wharf, and another Duff’s Wharf, as marked onPlate VI.After breakfasting in the Light-house, Sir William proposed, that the foremen, landing-master, artificers and seamen, should be collected on the Beacon, when he expressed the satisfaction which he and his brother Commissioner felt at seeing the present advanced state of the Light-house; and, after alluding to the utility which might result from the publication of the whole proceedings of this work, concluded an address of much tenderness of feeling, by wishing all of us every prosperity and happiness. The party having been highly amused and gratified upon the Rock, againembarked; and at 10A. M.the Tender sailed for Leith Roads, where she arrived, at 6 o’clockP. M., having made the trip from thence in the short space of about 28 hours.
1810, September.
Sunday, 2d.
Wooden-bridge removed from the Rock.
The writer having accompanied the party to Leith, immediately returned to the Bell Rock, where he was to make arrangements for bringing the operations to a conclusion. The steps of the stair being landed, and all the weightier articles of the Light-room got up to the balcony, the wooden-bridge was now to be removed, as it had a very powerful effect upon the Beacon, when a heavy sea struck it; and could not possibly have withstood the storms of a winter. Every thing having been cleared from the bridge, and nothing left but the two principal beams, with their horizontal braces, James Glen, at high-water, proceeded with a saw to cut through the beams at the end next the Beacon, which likewise disengaged their opposite extremity, inserted a few inches into the building. The frame was then gently lowered into the water, and floated off to the Smeaton, to be towed to Arbroath, to be applied as part of the materials in the erection of the light-keepers’ houses. After the removal of the bridge, the aspect of things at the Rock was much altered. The Beacon-house and Building had both a naked look, to those accustomed to their former appearance; a curious optical deception was also remarked, by which the Light-house seemed to incline from the perpendicular towards the Beacon. The horizontal rope-ladder before noticed was again stretched, to preserve the communication; and the artificers were once more obliged to practise the awkward and stradling manner of their passage between them during 1809, as will be understood by examining the second year’s work ofPlate IX.
Last Stone of the Light-house laid.
At 12 noon, the bell rung for prayers, after which the artificers went to dinner, when the writer passed along the rope-ladder to the Light-house, and went through the several apartments, which were now cleared of lumber. In the afternoon, all hands were summoned to the interior of the house, when he had the satisfaction of laying the upper step of the stair, or last stone of the Building. This ceremony concluded with three cheers, the sound of which had a very loud and strange effect within the walls of the Light-house. At 6 o’clock Mr Peter Logan, and eleven of the artificers, embarked with the writer for Arbroath, leaving Mr James Glen with the special charge of the Beacon and Railways, Mr RobertSelkirk with the Building, with a few artificers to fit the temporary windows, to render the house habitable.
1810, October.
Tuesday, 4th.
Tender sails for Leith, to be sold.
At Arbroath, the building operations for the keepers’ houses were left under charge of Mr Peter Logan and Mr Lachlan Kennedy, when the writer proceeded for Greenock, to sail on his annual voyage to the Northern Light-houses. In passing the Floating-light this morning, he went on board, and examined that ship with Captain Wilson, and had the satisfaction to find every thing in the most orderly and cleanly condition. The sailors, with those feelings which usually accompany taking permanent leave of a vessel, hoisted an ensign flag on board of the Floating-light, as the Tender was now on her way to Leith to be dismantled and sold. The writer must also confess, that, on finally leaving the Sir Joseph Banks Tender, it was not without feelings of regret, as he had spent a considerable portion of the two last summers in this beautifully moulded ship.
A Praam-boat drifts from the Rock.
On the afternoon of the 5th, a signal was observed flying from the main-mast-head of the Floating-light, which created considerable alarm at Arbroath, when the Smeaton sailed to inquire into the cause. Upon hailing the Floating-light, Captain Wilson informed Mr Pool that the Hedderwick praam-boat had broke adrift from her moorings, and gave his opinion as to the course to be steered, in order to fall in with her. At 8 o’clock next morning she was observed a few leagues to the eastward, and taken in tow by the Smeaton, to be carried to Leith; but the wind being westerly, after getting above the Isle of May, she was obliged to anchor in Canty Bay, to the eastward of Tantallan Castle; and at noon on the 12th, she got safely into the harbour of Leith, after a very cross passage of six days.
Artificers for the erection of the Light-room landed.
The arrival of the Smeaton had for some days been anxiously watched, as the remaining parts of the Light-room were ready to ship for the Bell Rock. No time was therefore lost in getting her loaded; and, on Thursday the 13th, she again sailed with Mr Dove, and the artificers, who were to fit up the light-room; and on the following day the whole were landed at the Rock. The first operation was to put up a temporary rail round the balcony, with a few iron stanchions, and some ropes, for the safety of the workmen. Captain Wilson and his crew also erected a pair ofsheers and a suitable tackle for lifting the cast-iron sash-frames from the balcony to the top of the parapet-wall.
Saturday, 15th.
Dr Barclay and party sail with the writer to the Light-houses.
This being the train in which the Bell Rock matters were left, the writer embarked to-day at Greenock, in the Light-house Yacht, along with his friends, Dr John Barclay, Mr Charles Oliphant, and Mr Patrick Neill, who were to accompany him on a tour to the Northern Light-houses. Notwithstanding the boisterous state of the weather during the early part of the month of September, it now became uncommonly fine; the barometer being found to oscillate within a few parts of 30 inches, and the range of the thermometer, taken daily at 9A. M., indicated from 43 to 50 degrees. The winds were also chiefly from the west, which being favourable for the ship’s course, the trip was not only remarkable for its quickness, but was, upon the whole, the most pleasant which the writer had ever experienced; as will readily be imagined by those who have the happiness to know the excellent qualities of his fellow-travellers, whether considered on account of their manner, intelligence, or scientific acquirements. This opportunity is therefore gladly embraced by the writer of recording their mutual friendships.
Progress of the Light-room works.
On returning from this voyage, the writer landed at the Bell Rock on Sunday the 14th of October, and had the pleasure to find, from the very favourable state of the weather, that the artificers had been enabled to make great progress with the fitting up of the Light-room. From the 14th of September till the 22d, they were occupied in fitting the sole-plate and trimming-path, forming the basement of the window-sash-frames. From the 22d till the 23d, the work executed got two successive coats of oil-paint; and, as it had also been carefully laid over with linseed-oil at the foundry, while in a hot state, it was nearly impervious to the effects of the atmosphere, and was likely to be kept free from oxidation. Between the 28th September and 2d October, the sash-frames were raised to their places and screwed together, along with the top-plate or cornice. From the 2d till the 15th, the copper-smiths were employed in erecting the cupola or roof of the Light-room, the several parts of which will be more readily understood by examiningPlate XX., with its letter-press description. Besides finding the works in this forward state, the writer had the happiness of seeing the plate-glass for the Light-room safely landed on the Rock. Each of these plates, measuring 32½ inches by 26¼ inches, and one quarter of an inch in thickness, could not have been soon or easilyreplaced; and their safe arrival was therefore considered a very fortunate circumstance; which having witnessed, the writer set sail for Leith, where he landed on the following morning.
Friday, 10th.
Loss of Charles Henderson.
The light-room work had proceeded, as usual, to-day, under the direction of Mr Dove, assisted in the plumber-work by Mr John Gibson, and in the brazier-work by Mr Joseph Fraser; while Mr James Slight, with the joiners, were fitting up the storm-shutters of the windows. In these several departments, the artificers were at work till 7 o’clockP. M., and it being then dark, Mr Dove gave orders to drop work in the light-room; and all hands proceeded from thence to the Beacon-house, when Charles Henderson, smith, and Henry Dickson brazier, left the work together. Being both young men, who had been for several weeks upon the Rock, they had become familiar, and even playful on the most difficult parts about the Beacon and Building. This evening they were trying to outrun each other, in descending from the light-room, when Henderson led the way; but they were in conversation with each other, till they came to the rope-ladder, distended between the entrance-door of the Light-house and the Beacon. Dickson, on reaching the cook-room, was surprised at not seeing his companion, and inquired hastily for Henderson. Upon which the cook replied, “Was he before you upon the rope-ladder?” Dickson answered “Yes; and I thought I heard something fall.” Upon this the alarm was given, and links were immediately lighted, with which the artificers descended on the legs of the Beacon, as near the surface of the water as possible, it being then about full tide, and the sea breaking to a considerable height upon the building, with the wind at S.S.E. But after watching till low-water, and searching in every direction upon the Rock, it appeared that poor Henderson must have unfortunately fallen through the rope-ladder, and been washed into the deep water.
The deceased had passed along this rope-ladder many hundred times, both by day and night, and the operations in which he was employed being nearly finished, he was about to leave the Rock when this melancholy catastrophe took place. The unfortunate loss of Henderson cast a deep gloom upon the minds of all who were at the Rock, and it required some management on the part of those who had charge, to induce the people to remain patiently at their work: as the weather now became more boisterous, and the nights long, they found their habitation extremely cheerless,while the winds were howling about their ears, and the waves lashing with fury against the beams of their insulated habitation.
Difficulty attending the procuring of Red-coloured-Glass.
It has already been noticed, that the plate-glass for the sash-frames of the light-room was safely landed on the Rock, and the writer had also the satisfaction of learning to-day that the red-coloured glass for distinguishing the light was in readiness to ship at London. After having corresponded with all parts of the kingdom, in endeavouring to procure red glass of the finest quality, by having it coloured in the furnace, it was mortifying to find that its manufacture was wholly impracticable, excepting in the production of small pieces, containing not more than three or four square inches, similar to those in the compartments of cathedral-windows: which, in the process of shading a reflector, must have induced a number of minute divisions, and necessarily obstructed much of the light. The writer at length resolved on confining his attention to plates of Crown-glass, stained by repeated applications of the litharge of gold, laid on after the manner of gum or paint, which was afterwards subjected to a strong heat in a muffle or furnace, of a peculiar construction, forming altogether a very nice and difficult process. In looking through this stained glass, the eye is not sensible of any effect but that of a fine rich red colour, when the pigment is properly applied; but, on examining a cross section of the glass, the green colour of the Crown-glass is distinctly seen in the centre, while a thin film of red is perceptible on the edges. Although the effect produced in this way cannot be so perfect as if the glass were uniformly coloured in the pot; yet, when applied to the purposes of a distinguishing light, its effects are highly characteristic and beautiful. As the works were now drawing near a completion, and all the essential parts of the light-room apparatus must soon be upon the spot, the writer, after repeated disappointments from Mr James Okey, glass-stainer of London, found it necessary to send Mr John Forrest, superintendant of light-keepers’ duty, with instructions to remain there until he got the plates into his possession. He accordingly arrived in London on the 15th of September, and immediately waited upon Okey; but, notwithstanding the numerous letters and pressing calls which had been made upon that artist, explanatory of the necessity of the case; yet, as the plates wanted were to be 25 inches in diameter, and, consequently, about 5 inches more than any he had hitherto been required to make, his furnace was still to rebuild, and his apparatus otherwise to conform to these enlarged dimensions, before he could begin to the Bell Rockplates. In order to insure attention and dispatch, Mr Forrest took lodgings at Clerkenwell, in Mr Okey’s immediate neighbourhood, and paid frequent visits to his workshop. Numerous glass-workers in various parts of the country had previously been applied to for this article, but none of them ever produced a single plate.
Monday, 22d.
Mr Robert Hamilton visits the Bell Rock.
The whole apparatus and workmen necessary for completing the exterior of the Light-house being now on the Rock, the writer was desirous of seeing the ball placed upon the top of the cupola, and accordingly embarked at Leith in the Yacht for that purpose. Mr Hamilton, who, as one of the Commissioners, had always taken a most lively interest in the affairs of the Bell Rock, took this opportunity to pay it another visit. The wind was at W.S.W., blowing pretty fresh with the barometer at 29.50; but, in the course of the night, the Yacht got down to the Floating-light, and was kept plying about, within view of it, till morning.
Tuesday, 23d.
The ventilator-ball is set upon the cupola.
The wind had shifted, in the night, to N.W., and blew a fresh gale, while the sea broke with violence upon the Rock. It was found impossible to land, but the writer, from the boat, hailed Mr Dove, and directed the ball to be immediately fixed. The necessary preparations were accordingly made, while the vessel made short tacks on the southern side of the Rock, in comparatively smooth water. At noon, Mr Dove, assisted by Mr James Slight, Mr Robert Selkirk, Mr James Glen, and Mr John Gibson, plumber, with considerable difficulty, from the boisterous state of the weather, got the gilded-ball screwed on, measuring 2 feet in diameter, and forming the principal ventilator at the upper extremity of the cupola of the Light-room, as will be seen from the section inPlate XX.At Mr Hamilton’s desire, a salute of 7 guns was fired on this occasion, and all hands being called to the quarter-deck, “Stability to the Bell Rock Light-house” was not forgotten.