Chapter 20

Problem XIV

SEWING AND BINDING A BOOK

Time: 10 hours.Materials: Newsboard,[5]vellum, cover paper, white paper, tape, sewing linen, and “super.”

There are several ways of sewing a book and even more ways of binding it after it is sewed. The first method here given is the simplest, and is such as is feasible in a fifth or sixth grade without a sewing frame, a press, or other apparatus than the simple tools required in the previous problems.

First determine the shape and size of the book. It is better at first not to attempt a book which is very thick, seven to twelve signatures being sufficient for a beginning. A “signature” is the name applied to a folded sheet, several of which go to make up the inside of a book. If the sheet is folded once it is called a “folio”; if twice, a “quarto”; if three times, an “octavo.” (See Plate XLVI.) These signatures, when sewed together, form what is technically known as “the book,” and the covers and back “the case.”

[5]A book-cover may be made of heavier newsboard than the articles previously described, although in elementary grades it will probably be more convenient to use one weight only. Number 30 is commonly used for books of ordinary size (say 7½ × 5¼ inches), while for larger books (10 × 7 inches) a still heavier board is used.

With a piece of cheap paper experiment a little, folding it one or more times and if necessary trimming the edges to change size or proportions. When the size is determined, cut a sufficient number of sheets, fold, and “stack” (pile) them for sewing. If the paper provided is too small to be used for a “quarto,” place one “folio” inside another which will give two thicknesses of paper at each fold and will have the same effect as a “quarto.” If desired, two or threesheets of paper may be placed together before folding so that there will be several thicknesses at the back.

Plate XLVI.Diagram to show methods of folding sheets of paper.

These signatures are to be sewed over three pieces of tape, one to be at the middle of the fold, one from 1 to 1½ inches from each end, according to the size of the pages. On the back of the first signature mark carefully the position of the edges of each piece of tape, and additional points ½ an inch from each end. The latter points show the location of the “kettle stitches.”

Replace this signature on the others and mark across the backs of all, locating similar points on other signatures with as much accuracy as possible. (See Plate XLVII.) The major folds should then be “jogged up” evenly at the back, and the minor folds at the “head” or top.

At each point on each signature make a hole for sewing by opening the signatures and piercing through with a needle from the back. Replace the signatures in the same order as before. Cut three pieces of tape about three inches long. Place the first signature on the deck or table with the fold of the back toward the operator. The left hand should be placed inside the signature to receive and return the threaded needle which is pushed through from the outside by the right hand. (See Plate XLVIII.) Pass the thread in through the first hole (leaving an end long enough for tying), out through the second hole, over the tape, in through the third hole, out through the fourth hole, over the second tape, in through the fifth hole, out through the sixth hole, over the third tape, in through the seventh hole, and out through the eighth or last hole of the signature.

Plate XLVII.Marking the signatures before stitching.

Close this signature and place the second signature on top of the first; then pass the thread in through the eighth hole of the second signature, and out through the seventh hole, over the tape, in through the sixth hole and so on untilthe thread comes out through the first hole. Tie the thread to the loose short end in a square or hard knot. Place the third signature on top of the second and proceed as before. On reaching the end of the third signature, pass the needle under the stitch connecting the first and second signatures and through the loop formed by the thread. (See Plate XLIX.) Pull tightly to form the “kettle stitch” which should be made at the end of every signature hereafter. In the same manner any number of signatures may thus be sewed to form a book.

Plate XLVIII.Sewing a book over tapes.

For fly-leaves, prepare four single sheets folded once, to be of the same size as the leaves of the book. Place these folded sheets one on top of another leaving about ⅛ of an inch of the folded edge of each exposed, the upper sheet being protected by a piece of waste paper. Rub paste over the exposed surface of all four at the same time. (See Plate L.) Remove the upper sheet and with its pasted edge downward place it upon the front signature of the book, its folded edge being flush with the folded edges of the sewed part, and the tapes thrown back out of the way. After rubbing this sheet well down, open it and place the second sheetinside the first, having its pasted edge downward also. See that the folds exactly fit, and rub down the second sheet. Turn the book over and repeat the process on the opposite side. (See page 93-D). Before proceeding farther the “book” should be dried under weight.

Plate XLIX.The needle is in position to form the “kettle stitch.”

Plate L.Applying paste to the folds of the fly-leaves.

Lay the “book” flat on the desk and with a wooden mallet hammer the folds at the back which will make the signatures lie close together. Turn the “book” over and repeat the process. A few strokes are sufficient. Cover the back with paste (or, if available, hot glue; do not attempt cold), and rub it well in with the fingers that it may hold thesignatures together and prevent their spreading. Use only a thin, even coat of paste; pull the tapes tightly across the back, and paste their ends to the outside leaves.

Plate LI.Dimensioned sketches of the parts of a book.

Cut a strip of “super” a little shorter than the length of the back, and wide enough to extend on to the fly-leaves about 1 inch. Place this over the freshly pasted back and rub it well on. Paste the part of the “super” which extends onto each side to the outside leaves over the tapes. When perfectly dry cut off about two-thirds of the width of each outside leaf, leaving a stub onto which the super and tapes are already pasted. The ends of these stubs should be slanted by cutting from the binding toward the front of the book.

The “case,” which should be a trifle longer than the “book,” should be constructed similarly to the portfolio but without tape or lining paper, and with but one strip of vellum (the long one) on the back. Plan to have the covers extend beyond the front and ends of the book about ⅛ of an inch; but as the newsboard foundations should set forward from the binding about ¼ of an inch. Their width should be a trifle less than the width of the pages. Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces and lay out and cut all parts. (See Plate LI.)

Place the pieces of newsboard on each side of the “book” in the exact position they are intended to occupy. Take a narrow strip of paper and attach its ends to the outside of the pieces of newsboard (see Plate LII) so that when the latter are removed from the “book” they will be attached to each other the correct distance apart; that is the space between them will be at least ½ an inch greater than the thickness of the book. Place them on the vellum and trace along the inner edge of each after ascertaining that the distance between them is the same at both ends. Remove the paper which connects the covers and paste them to the vellum in the position already marked out, but do not yet turn over the ends of vellum. Cut a strip of heavy paperof just the width of the back of the “book” and paste in the middle of the piece of vellum, after which the ends of vellum should be turned over and pasted down. Complete the “case” by pasting on the cover paper after which it should be pressed and dried.

Plate LII.Determining the distancebetween covers.

When this is done place the “book” as far back in the “case” as it is possible to do and be certain that the edges of the covers are in alignment. Make tiny pencil marks at the front edge of the leaves to guide the placing of the “book” after the paste is spread. When necessary lines or points have been located remove the “book” from the “case” and prepare to paste.

Under the first whole leaf place a piece of newspaper considerably larger than the “book” to protect the pages. Spread paste over the surface of this leaf, first under the stub which should then be pushed down with the brush to hold it securely to the outside leaf; then cover the outside of the stub with paste. Place the “book” in the“case” following the guide lines previously made, and press the covers together with the hands. Lay the book on the desk or table with the pasted half down. (See Plate LIII.) Open at the pasted leaf a very little way and carefully rub the lining onto the cover, smoothing out any wrinkles which may appear. Turn the book over and repeat the process with the other cover. Do not open wide until the book has been pressed.

Plate LIII.Pasting “book” inside the “cover.”

This should be done very effectually and for this purpose two boards clamped together with handscrews make a better press than a weight. If two thin pieces of tin, zinc, or blotting-paper are placed between the “case” and the “book” while in press it will prevent the moisture from being absorbed by the leaves, causing them to wrinkle.

Variations

Several variations of the “case” are possible.

(A). The simplest is to cover the outside corners with vellum. If this is to be done, the vellum corners are to beapplied before the cover paper. The width of the corner piece, exclusive of the laps and measured on a line bisecting the right-angle, should equal the width of the strip of vellum which shows at the back. This rule holds true in all high class bindings such as morocco, Levant, calf, etc. (See Plate LIV.)

By experimenting a little, a pattern (trapezoid) may be made for the corner pieces by which to cut them. (See Plate LIV.) Plan these pieces to extend under the paper at least ¼ of an inch.

Plate LIV.Diagram to illustrate the size of separate corners, alsomethod of cutting them.

After the cover paper has been cut in rectangular shape, according to the original plan, the two outside corners should be trimmed to allow the proper amount of vellum to show. This may be accomplished in one of two ways. Using the same pattern as for the vellum corners, fit its two opposite non-parallel edges as close to the corner as possible and cut along the inside edge of the pattern. Or, one may place the newsboard on the paper and trace around it, lay off the size of the finished corner and cut on the resulting oblique line. After the vellum corners have been pasted on firmly, place the cover paper carefully and paste it on as already described.

(B). After the “case” is completed in either of the two ways described, it may be decorated with lettering or by the application of other design. In this instance the suggestions given in connection with the portfolio should be followed.

(C). The entire “case” may be covered with vellum. Generally a cloth covering is not desirable on a hand-sewed book, but if for a special reason one is to be used, have a single piece of vellum cut large enough to cover both back and sides. After finding the correct distance between the two pieces of newsboard, lay them on the vellum, in the manner already described, trace around them, and complete the “case” by pasting.

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