PART IIIWOOD CONSTRUCTION

WINDMILL, BWINDMILL, B

"Lay down your scissors. Turn your paper from right to left until the next corner faces you. Cut. Move the paper from right to left again until the third corner faces you. Cut. Bring the fourth corner to face you. Cut. There are now eight points. Turn each alternate point to the center, run the pin through all of them and fasten the wheel to the stick."

Final questions.

Teacher: "What did you make?"

Pupil: "I made a pin-wheel."

Teacher: "What have you made?"

Pupil: "I have made a pin-wheel."

Teacher: "What has Ellen made?"

Pupil: "Ellen has made a pin-wheel."

When older pupils have completed a model it is excellent practice to have them write a full description of how it is made and the materials used.

Material—One piece of construction paper, 5×5 inches. Stick, 5×1/4×1/4 inches. One pin. (See pages28and30.)

Fold the square on the diagonals. Cut the diagonals to within one-half inch of the center. Bend alternate corners over until the point of each touches the center. Fasten the four points in the center by running the pin through them and driving it into the stick.

Material—Construction paper, 5×5 inches. (See page32.)

Measure off one inch on four sides, and connect the points with a line parallel to the edge of the paper. Score lightly each line. Cut out the four corner squares. Turn up the sides, fasten the corners together with raffia or cord, tying a small bow.

Material—Construction paper, 5×5 inches. (See page33.)

Fold and crease into sixteen small squares. Score lightly the four lines nearest the outer edge. Draw one diagonal pointing toward the center of each corner square. Next draw half of the diagonal extending in the opposite direction. Fold the paper on the lines scored. Crease the diagonals 1-2, making the crease extend to the inside of the tray, and press until lines 1-4 and 1-3 meet. Now we have a triangle on the inside of the tray. Fold this over on half-diagonal, No. 5, and press to the side of the tray. This will fasten together firmly the corners of the tray.

SQUARE TRAY No. I—(For description see page 31.)SQUARE TRAY No. I—(For description see page31.)

Materials—Construction paper, 6×6 inches. (See page34.)

Measure off from the outer edge two lines, one inch apart. Score these lines. In each corner there are four one-inch squares. Cut off 1, 2, and 3; then draw the diagonal of 4 pointing toward the center of the paper. Crease and fold on these diagonals, extending the triangle inward. Fold this triangle over to half its size; press to the inside of the box. Edges 5-6, 5-7 will meet to form the corners of the box, and cover flaps 8-9 will fallnaturally into place. Result, box four inches square, one inch deep, with folding cover.

SQUARE TRAY No. II—(For description see page 31.)SQUARE TRAY No. II—(For description see page31.)

Material—Construction paper, 4×4 inches or 4×6 inches.

Measure off a margin one inch all around, and score. Cut as indicated on page35. Fold over the border to half its width,as 1 over to 2. Bend up on line 2-3. When the edge is folded over a little tongue is formed at each end. Slip this tongue under the fold of the adjacent side, and it will fasten the sides of the box firmly together. A lid may be made exactly as the box is made.

SQUARE BOX WITH COVER—(For description see page 32.)SQUARE BOX WITH COVER—(For description see page32.)

A beautiful Christmas box may be made of red paper, orgray decorated with holly. Made of white paper, with a chicken (in yellow) painted on the lid, it is appropriate for Easter.

SQUARE BOX—(For description see pages 33 and 34.)SQUARE BOX—(For description see pages33and34.)

Material—Construction paper: one 7-inch square; one rectangle 4×9 inches. (See page36.)

Drawer.Lay the rectangle on the desk with the nine-inch edge parallel with the front edge of the desk. Draw a line one inch from the back edge and parallel with it. Draw a line one inch from the front edge and parallel with it. Draw a line one inch from the right edge and parallel with it; and a line one inch from the left edge and parallel with it. Score, bend and crease on these lines. Cut the lines on the right and the left edges to where they intersect the lines on the back and the front edges. Fold and glue. The laps are pasted on the inside and give strength to the ends of the drawer.

PENCIL BOX WITH SLIDING COVERPENCIL BOX WITH SLIDING COVER

Cover(seven-inch square). Measure off one and one-fourth inches, and construct a line parallel to the back edge. Measure one inch and draw a line parallel to this. Measure off two and one-sixteenth inches (shy) and draw a third parallel line. Measure one inch again and draw a fourth line parallel to the other three. Score and fold on these lines. Lap the space at the backedge over the space at the front edge until they form a rectangle two and one-sixteenth by seven inches in size, to correspond with the opposite one, which is the top of the cover. Glue. Slide in the drawer and the pencil box is completed.

Material—Construction paper: two rectangles 8×9 inches; one rectangle 2×5-1/2 inches; one rectangle 2×4-1/2 inches. (See page38.)

Take one 8×9-inch rectangle for the body of the box and lay off a two-inch space all around. Cut on dotted lines. Score and crease, fold and glue. The laps are glued to the inside and each one turned to the right. When the partitions are put in the laps mark where the ends go, as well as brace the ends of them. Take the two rectangles, 2×4-1/2 inches and 2×5-1/2 inches, and draw a line one-half inch from each of the two-inch edges. Score and crease. These form the laps for pasting the partitions in. On these partitions turn all four laps to the right, to coincide with the laps on the box. Dovetail the partitions by cutting a slit one inch deep in the center of each and slipping one over the other. Next glue them to the inside of the box.

Cover.Take the second 8×9-inch rectangle and mark off a two-inch space (shy) all around. Find middle of nine-inch edges and draw lines 1-2, 2-3, and 2-4. Cut out these two triangles. Cut the corners on the dotted lines. Score, fold, and glue. Notice that in the lids the laps are not turned as in the body of the box. Here, as in the drawer of the pencil-box, the laps are glued to the ends of the cover, concentrating strength there and producing symmetry in construction.

Material—Construction paper, 5×5 inches. (See page39.)

Fold on the diagonals. Bring each corner over until it touches the center; crease. Fold each corner back again until its point touches the outside edge at the middle section; crease.

Material—Construction paper, 4-1/2×16-1/2 inches. (See page40.)

SEED BOX WITH SECTIONS—(For description see page 37.)SEED BOX WITH SECTIONS—(For description see page37.)

Divide the length into three equal parts, making three rectangles4-1/2×5-1/2 inches in size. In the middle rectangle, measure off and cut out a rectangle 2-1/4×3 inches in size. Fold rectangle No. 3 up and back of rectangle No. 2. Holding the two firmly together, punch two holes, one-fourth inch apart, on each side, and one-fourth inch from the outer edges (see diagram). Draw a piece of raffia or ribbon through these holes and tie in a bow. Fold back rectangle No. 1 for support.

PICTURE FRAME No. I—(For description see page 37.)PICTURE FRAME No. I—(For description see page37.)

PICTURE FRAME No. II—(For description see pages 37 and 39.)PICTURE FRAME No. II—(For description see pages37and39.)

Material—Heavy manila paper, 7-1/2×12 inches. (See page41.)

Fold edge No. 1 over and even with edge No. 2. Crease and fold. On each side of A mark and cut off one-half inch. Clip off the corners of the flaps on B. Fold the flaps of B over on A and paste. Find the middle of edges 1 and 2. With a radius of one inch, describe a semicircle and cut it out.

PORTFOLIO—(For description see page 40.)PORTFOLIO—(For description see page40.)

Material—Construction paper, 8×8 inches or 10×10 inches. (See page42.)

Fold a square into sixteen small squares of equal size; crease. With this as a basis throw the child on his own resources, allowing him to invent a pattern and make a chair, a sofa, or any piece of furniture that he can devise from such a square. A corner may have to be cut out or a slit made, but impress upon the child that, as far as possible, the model must be gotten by folding, with very little or no cutting.

By using a larger square and folding in the same way, a houseor a barn may be made. Add a chimney and steps from an extra piece of paper.

Material—Construction paper, 7×7 inches.

HEXAGONAL TRAYHEXAGONAL TRAY

Draw one diameter; find the center. With a radius of three and one-half inches describe a circle. (The circumference of a circle is six times the radius). Place a point of the compass at one intersection of the circumference and the diameter, and divide the circle into six equal parts. With a radius of two inches,describe an inner circle parallel to the outer one. Connect opposite points of the outer circle by drawing two more diameters. This will divide the inner circle into six equal parts. Connect by straight lines the adjacent points of the inner circle, as 1-2;score. At the intersections of the outer circle, mark off one-half inch on each side and by straight lines connect both these points with the opposite points of intersection of the inner circle, as 2-3, 2-4. This forms two equal triangles, one of which is to be cut out, as 4-2-5, and the other, as 3-2-5, left. Having cut out the six triangles, bend up on lines scored, bring the sides together, and use triangle 3-2-5 as a lap for pasting.

Material—Construction paper, 7×10 inches. Japanese rice paper, 7×10 inches.

LAMP SHADE, ALAMP SHADE, A

Select a pretty shade of brown, green or red construction paper. Measure off two inches and construct a line parallel to the ten-inch length. Bisect this line. Place the compass at this point of bisection and with a radius of four inches describe a semicircle, 1-2; extend this arc to 3, and draw the line 3-4. With a radius of one inch describe an inner semicircle (5-6) parallel to the outer one. Again, with a radius of one inch describe a third semicircle, parallel to the other two. Set the compass at half the radius and divide each semicircle into six equal parts. Connect these points of intersection by straight lines (9-10). Makea stencil that will fit in one of these sections. Using the stencil, draw the same figure in each section. Carefully cut out the stenciled space. Next lay the construction paper on the Japanese rice paper and trace on it the stencil design. Remove the construction paper and, with two blending colors of crayon, color the figure or design traced on the Japanese paper. Again, lay the construction paper on the rice paper and glue the two together. Cut out the shade as marked off, bring the two edges together, and glue.

LAMP SHADE, BLAMP SHADE, B

If you wish the lower edge scalloped, cut it as shown in the diagram. By folding and creasing on the lines of intersection the shade may be made hexagonal in shape. All designs for decoration are supposed to be original.

Material—Construction paper, two 8-inch squares. Raffia.

Take an eight-inch square. Fold the front edge over to the back edge; crease. On the left edge place a point one and one-half inches from the left-back corner. Carry the right-front corner over to this point; fold and crease. Turn the left triangle under; fold and crease. Next, as the paper stands in your hand with the triangle facing you, fold the right edge over to the left edge; crease. Where the three edges of the paper come together, begin at the highest point and cut across the paper from right to left to within two and one-half inches of the center. Open out the paper and you have the star.

A picture frame made of a five-pointed star is very pretty. Cut two stars of the same size. From the center of one cut a star one inch smaller for a mat. Lay this mat on the solid orfoundation star and glue four of the points together. In the fifth point pierce two holes through both pieces, about an inch from the apex of the point. Slip in the picture. Take a piece of raffia or cord and tie a loop with two ends. Bring these ends through the holes from the back to the front and tie them in a bow. By the loop at the back the frame is hung.

PICTURE FRAME FROM FIVE-POINTED STARPICTURE FRAME FROM FIVE-POINTED STAR

Material—Construction paper, 6-1/2×7 inches, for cover. Manila paper, four pieces 6×6-1/2 inches, for leaves.

Fold the piece of construction paper down the middle, so as to form the 3-1/2×6-1/2-inch cover. In the same way crease the manila paper for the leaves. Place the leaves within the cover; with heavy silk or fine twine sew them to the back. Bring the needle through one inch from the upper edge, one inch from the lower edge, and in the middle. The long stitch is on the inside, the two short ones are on the outside, both ends of the thread are brought through the center to the inside and tied over the long stitch to hold it in place. Leave the ends an inch long and fringe them.

NOTEBOOKNOTEBOOK

Material—Heavy construction paper, colored, 5×6 inches, for cover. Four pieces white paper, 11-1/2×19-1/2 inches, for leaves. Two pieces tape, 1/4×2 inches.

Cover.Mark off and rule two and seven-eighths inches from each edge of the five-inch length; crease. This will leave in the middle a 1/4×5-inch space, in which the back of the leaves will go. Take each sheet of white paper, fold it once lengthwise, and once crosswise; this will make a "folio" four leaves thick, 2-3/4×5-3/4 inches in size. We have four of these folios to be joined together and bound to the back. Take folio No. 1 and with needle and silk sew the leaves together, running the thread one inch from the upper edge and one inch from the lower edge and in the center, seeing that the last stitch brings the thread on the outside of the back of the leaves. Do not break the thread. Take folio No. 2, hold it close to folio No. 1, carry the thread across and take it through the middle of the back, one inch from front or back edge, as in folio No. 1.

BOUND BOOKBOUND BOOK

On the back edges of these folios there will be two long stitches. Under these stitches pass the two pieces of tape. Keep one of these tapes as near the upper and the other as near the lower edge as the stitch will allow. As a folio is added and the leaves sewed together, connect the exposed stitch of the one previously added to the one last added, at the three places where the thread holds the leaves, by a buttonhole stitch (in bookbinding known as the "kettle stitch"). When the last folio is added, place the back of the leaves to the back of the cover in the 1/4×5-inch space.Stretch the tapes down on the cover and paste (1-3). Take the first and the last leaf and paste them over the tapes, to the inside of the cover. The outside of the cover may have some simple decoration if such is desired.

In Book VII of theText Book of Art Education, published by The Prang Educational Company, is worked out a very interesting problem for the making of a scrap-book, and suggestions given for decorating the cover. The scrap or clipping books shown here were made in a similar way. The decoration and cover are left to the taste and ingenuity of the teacher or the child.

Material—Construction paper, colored, 4-1/4×12-1/4 inches, for cover. Manila paper, six leaves, 4×6 inches, double, with fold on outer edge.

JAPANESE BOOKJAPANESE BOOK

The paper for the cover is 4-1/4×12-1/4 inches in size. Place the paper lengthwise in front of you and bring the left edge over to the right edge; crease, fold. Mark off a space three-fourths of an inch from the edge of the fold, draw a line, A-L. On this line three-quarters of an inch from the upper and the lower edges, place dots, B C, and one-fourth inch from B C place dots D E. Hold the leaves evenly together and press them in between the cover. With a large needle and cord sew through C, under,up, and over A, through C again, under to F, over through C, under and up through E, back to G, under and up through E, down to D, through and over H, back to D, down and up through D, then to B; down under to K, back to B, through and under and around to L, to B, to D, to E, to C. Tie the two ends of the cord, which come together at C, and fringe them out.

SCRAP OR CLIPPING BOOK Cover of grass cloth.SCRAP OR CLIPPING BOOKCover of grass cloth.

Material—Construction paper, colored: 6-1/4×8-1/4 inches, for cover. Manila paper: three leaves 6×8 inches; three strips 1-1/8×6 inches. Two paper clamps.

Double the 6×8-inch leaves into six leaves 4×6 inches in size. Between leaves 1 and 2, 3 and 4, 5 and 6, place the 1-1/8×6-inch guards at the back. Have leaves and guards even and compact;then set them between the cover. Measure from the back edge of the cover a space three-quarters of an inch wide, and draw a pencil line. Placing the sharp edge of a ruler on this line, bend the back edge toward the front until it is well creased. In the center of this 3/4-inch space, one inch from the upper edge and one inch from the lower edge of the book, pierce a hole and insert the brass clamps.

SCRAP OR CLIPPING BOOK Cover of linen, stenciled.SCRAP OR CLIPPING BOOKCover of linen, stenciled.

Mix until perfectly smooth one cup of flour with one cup of cold water.

Put two cups of water in a vessel and set it over the fire until it heats. (Do not let it boil.) Add one teaspoonful of powdered alum, then stir in the mixture of flour and cold water. Continuestirring until it thickens to a good consistency. Remove it from the fire and add one teaspoonful of oil of cloves or peppermint. Pour it into an air-tight jar and when it is cool screw on the top.

SCRAP OR CLIPPING BOOK Cover of fancy paper—(For description see pages 51 and 52.)SCRAP OR CLIPPING BOOKCover of fancy paper—(For description see pages51and52.)

Use the same cup all through. The oil of cloves or peppermint is simply a flavoring, and does not add to the quality. This quantity will nearly fill a quart jar.

As the child develops, paper construction loses its charm, and a desire for something utilitarian arises. We suggest that at this stage the much-treasured pocket knife be brought into service, for from small pieces of wood many articles may be made. The construction of these will afford the child, especially the boy, much pleasure, and will at once arouse a new interest.

Only the simplest articles will be given here—articles which may be fashioned from bits of wood commonly found around a house, such as old cigar boxes, small starch boxes, etc. But, should the teacher be able to obtain the proper materials, basswood a quarter or three-eighths of an inch thick, and whittling knives are the requisites.

The reader will notice that the wood mentioned for each model is bass. Why? Because bass is the wood generally used for carving. The tree is the same as the linden and the lime. It is found in northern Asia, Europe, and North America, and grows to an immense height. The wood is soft, light, close-veined, pliable, tough, durable, and free from knots, and does not split easily; all of which qualities favor its suitability for carving.

In whittling, it is always best to lay off the pattern on both sides of the wood. Then one can work from either side without fear of spoiling the material.

In cutting, work with the grain, or the wood will be apt to split. Cut toward you, not from you.

In grooving, use the point of the knife, and work slowly and carefully. If the knife slips the wood is ruined.

Insist that nothing the child does is well done unless well sandpapered, and nothing is properly sandpapered until all roughness is done away with, and the grain appears.

In the making of designs, let the child first have a piece of paper the size of the wood he is to use, and have him work out a design to be applied to his wood. This design may be most crude,but with a suggestion here, and a correction there, from the teacher, it can be brought into shape. The child will be pleased, and will attack with more assurance of success each succeeding problem that he meets.

For coloring, use water color paints. Red, green, and yellow are most satisfactory, as their identity is retained when staining is applied.

Apply the stain with a brush, and with a soft cloth rub it in until it is dry. This develops or brings out the grain.

When sure that the stain is well rubbed in and dry, apply butcher's wax, and polish with a soft cloth. Some articles need two coats of stain, and an equal amount of polish.

In all work impress upon the child the fact that what is worth doing is worth doing well, or it should not be done at all.

Each model given works out a problem in handling the knife and cutting the wood, and each problem leads up to the one that follows.

We will begin with the simplest thing one can make—a puzzle.

Problem—To cut with the grain of the wood, and how to cut corners. (See page57.)Material—Basswood: one piece 7×1-1/2×3/16 inches; one piece 3×1-1/2×3/16 inches. One yard of macramé cord.

Problem—To cut with the grain of the wood, and how to cut corners. (See page57.)

Material—Basswood: one piece 7×1-1/2×3/16 inches; one piece 3×1-1/2×3/16 inches. One yard of macramé cord.

Shave the 7×1-1/2-inch strip of wood down with a knife until it is an inch wide, being careful to keep the edges parallel. Measure off three-eighths of an inch in opposite directions on each corner and on both sides of the wood. Connect these points by a pencil line. Cut off each corner the space indicated by the line. Be careful always to cut with the grain of the wood; cutting against it will split the board. Next, three-fourths of an inch from each end, and equally distant from the sides, and in the center, bore holes. From the 3×1-1/2-inch piece of wood, cut two blocks one and one-half inches square, and bore a hole in the center of each. Double the string to a loop and draw this loop through the center hole of the rectangular strip. Pull the loop to the edge, and draw through it the two ends of the cord. String the 1-1/2-inch blocks, one on each cord, then tie the ends of cord in the two end holes of the rectangular strip.

The puzzle is finished. What is the aim, and how can it be solved?

PUZZLEPUZZLE

Solution.Mark one block. Hold one in the hand and move the other along until it passes through the loop at the center.

Pull the cord through the middle hole until it draws with it four thicknesses of cord. Now slide the block along until it passes through a double loop. Next, draw this double loop back through the hole; the string will be in position, and the block is now passed along through a single loop and onto the string containing theother one. To replace the block, turn the puzzle around and repeat the process.

Problem—To cut across the grain, and, by removing two equal triangles, to form a well-tapered point.Material—One piece of basswood, 6×1×1/4 inches.

Problem—To cut across the grain, and, by removing two equal triangles, to form a well-tapered point.

Material—One piece of basswood, 6×1×1/4 inches.

PLANT LABELPLANT LABEL

Take the end A B and find the center, C. From A measure off two and a half inches, and place point D. From B measure off two and a half inches, and place point E. Connect points CD and CE. Place the same measurements on the reverse side. With the knife cut off triangles A-C-D and B-C-E. Sandpaper the wood until it is smooth and the label is finished.

Problem—Curve-cutting.Material—One piece of basswood, 6-1/2×1-1/4×1/4 inches. One piece of sandpaper, 1×3-1/8 inches. Glue. Stain.

Problem—Curve-cutting.

Material—One piece of basswood, 6-1/2×1-1/4×1/4 inches. One piece of sandpaper, 1×3-1/8 inches. Glue. Stain.

On the wood place points three and a quarter inches from each end, at A and B, and connect them by line A-B. Place points G and H half an inch from C and D. Start your curve at G, pass through I, and end at H. In the rectangle A-B-F-E draw a handle as indicated in the diagram. Shape the other end by removing spaces G-C-I and H-D-I. Sandpaper thoroughly. Shape one end of the 1×3-1/8-inch piece of sandpaper as curve G-I-H, and glue it to the wood. Stain the wood and polish it by rubbing it with a soft cloth.

PENCIL SHARPENERPENCIL SHARPENER

Problem—Curve and cross-grain cutting.Material—One piece of basswood, 3-3/4×3×1/4 inches. One piece of sandpaper, 2-1/2×3 inches. Glue.

Problem—Curve and cross-grain cutting.

Material—One piece of basswood, 3-3/4×3×1/4 inches. One piece of sandpaper, 2-1/2×3 inches. Glue.

MATCH SCRATCHMATCH SCRATCH

Place a point at the center of line A-B and of line C-D. Place a point on line A-C and line B-D, one and one-quarter inches from A and B. Connect these points by a pencil line, and draw another line one-eighth of an inch below. Score these two lines with the point of the knife, making a tiny groove. Draw curves A-E and B-E, the highest point of the curve being halfan inch from the edge A-E-B. Draw curves G-F and H-F. Remove spaces 1, 2, 3, and 4. Sandpaper thoroughly the edges and sides. Shape the piece of sandpaper, two and a half by three inches, to fit the space G-F-H, allowing a quarter-inch margin, and glue it on. Bore a hole at 5. Do not stain.

KITE STRING WINDERKITE STRING WINDER

Problem—Cross-grain cutting.Material—One piece of basswood, 5-1/2×2-1/2×1/4 inches.

Problem—Cross-grain cutting.

Material—One piece of basswood, 5-1/2×2-1/2×1/4 inches.

Measure and lay off as shown in the diagram, and cut out allspaces indicated by dotted lines. Sandpaper the wood until it is smooth. Stain the winder or not, as is preferred.

Problem—Beveling and grooving. (See page62.)Material—One piece of basswood 6×3×1/4 inches. Stain.

Problem—Beveling and grooving. (See page62.)

Material—One piece of basswood 6×3×1/4 inches. Stain.

For the thermometer back the measurements need be placed on but one side of the wood.

Mark off a quarter-inch from the edge all around and draw a line. Place a second line a quarter-inch within this. Using the line nearest the edge as a guide, cut off the sharp edges on the face of the strip of wood until the slant surface is reached between the line and the back edge. This makes the bevel. The inner line is a guide for spacing the design. Originate a simple design, and lay it off on the board in pencil. Then, using the point of the knife, with the greatest care groove out the design. Place a hole near the top of the strip by means of which to hang it. Notice that the design fits around the hole. Sandpaper, stain, and polish the wood.

The design given here is the simplest that can be made. It is suggested that until the child becomes accustomed to working with the knife, all designs for grooving had better be confined to straight lines. Combine in a design a vertical, a horizontal, and an oblique line, and some beautiful patterns may be originated.

Problem—Circular cutting, grooving, stenciling, and coloring. (See page63.)Material—Basswood: two pieces, 3×3×1/4 inches. One piece of heavy felt 3×3×1/4 inches. Glue. Water-color paints. Stain.

Problem—Circular cutting, grooving, stenciling, and coloring. (See page63.)

Material—Basswood: two pieces, 3×3×1/4 inches. One piece of heavy felt 3×3×1/4 inches. Glue. Water-color paints. Stain.

Find the center of each square of wood by drawing the diagonals. With the compass at the radius of one and one-half inches, describe a circle on each piece of wood (on one side only). Remove spaces A, B, C, and D with the knife, and you have a circular block. Remember to cut with the grain. Bevel the edges. Make an original design and apply it to your wood. With the knife groove the outline of this design. There should be a space three-eighths of an inch wide between the edge of the wood and the outer edge of the design. When the design is grooved in,color it. Red, green and yellow are the best colors. Their identity is not lost in staining. Lastly, stain and polish the face of the blocks. Cut the felt the size of the blocks, cover the back of each block with glue, place the felt between the two, and keep the whole in press for several hours. The model here suggests two designs. These are given simply as illustrations. Use the same design for both backs of the cushion.

THERMOMETER BACK—(For description see page 61.)THERMOMETER BACK—(For description see page61.)

PIN CUSHIONPIN CUSHION

DESIGNS FOR PIN CUSHIONDESIGNS FOR PIN CUSHION

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