FARNEI FUNGI, ℞309
FARRICA, ℞173
FASEOLUS, PHASEOLUS, a bean; Ger.: Fisole, ℞207
FARSILIS, FARTILIS, a rich dish, something crammed or fattened, ℞131
FARTOR, sausage maker; keeper of animals to be fattened, ℞166,366
FARTURA, the fattening of animals; also the dressing used to stuff the bodies in roasting, forcemeat, ℞166,366
FATTENING FOWL, ℞166,366
FENICOPTERO, IN, ℞220,231
FENICULUM, FOENI—, fennel
FENUM GRAECUM, FOEN—; the herb fenugreek, also SILICIA, ℞206
FERCULUM, a frame or tray on which several dishes were brought in at once, hence a course of dishes
FERULA, a rod or branch, fennel-giant; —— ASA FOETIDA, same asLASERPITIUM
FICATUM, fed or stuffed with figs, ℞259-60
FICEDULA, small bird, figpecker, ℞132
FICUS, fig, fig tree, FICULA, small fig
Field herbs, ℞107; Field salad, ℞110; a dish of field vegetables, ℞134
Fieldfare, a bird, ℞497
Fig-fed pork, p.285, ℞259
Figpecker, a bird, ℞132
Figs, to preserve, ℞22
Filets Mignons, ℞262
Filtering liquors, ℞1
Financière garniture, ℞166,378
Fine ragout of brains and bacon, ℞147
Fine spiced wine, ℞1
Fish cookery, “The Fisherman,” title of BookX; —— boiled, ℞432,4,5,6,455; —— fried, herbsauce, ℞433; —— to preserve fried fish, ℞13; —— with cold dressing, ℞486; —— baked, ℞476-7; —— balls in wine sauce, ℞145,164; —— fond, ℞155; a dish of any kind of ——, ℞149,150,156; —— au gratin, ℞143; —— loaf, ℞429; —— liver pudding, ℞429; —— pickled, spiced, marinated, ℞480; —— oysters and eggs, ℞157; —— salt, any style, ℞430,431; stew, ℞153,432; —— sauce, acid, ℞38-9
FISKE BOLLER, ℞145,41, seq.
Flaccus, a Roman, ℞372
Flamingo, ℞220,231-2
Flavors and spices, often referred to, especially in text; instances of careful flavoring, ℞15,276-77. Flavoring with faggots, ℞385, seq.
Florence Mss. ApicianaVI,VII,VIII,IX
FLORES SAMBUCI, elder blossoms
Fluvius Hirpinus, Roman, ℞323,396; a man interested in raising snails, dormice, etc., for the table
FOCUS, hearth, range; unusually built of brick, on which the CRATICULA stood. Cf. illustrations, p.182
FOLIUM, leaf, aromatic leaves such as laurel, etc. —— NARDI, several kinds, nard leaf. The Indian nard furnishes nard oil, the Italian lavender
FONDULI, seeSPHONDULI, ℞114,121
Food adulterations, pp.33,34
Food disguising and adulteration, p.33, ℞6,7,134,147;—— displayed in Pompeii, p.7
Forcemeats, ℞42,172
Fowl, p.265; a dish of, ℞470; —— and livers, ℞174; various dishes and sauce, ℞218, seq. Picking ——, ℞233; Removing disagreeable odors from ——, ℞229-30
French Dressing, ℞112
French Toast, ℞296
FRETALE, FRIXORIUM, FRICTORIUM, frying pan, illustrations, pp.355,366; cf.SARTAGO
FRICTELLA, fritter; “A FRICTO DICI NULLA RATIO OBSTAT”—Platina. Ger. “Frikadellen” for meat balls fried in the pan. “De OFFELLIS, QUAS VEL FRICTELLAS LICET APPELLARE”—Platina
FRICTORIUM, FRIXORIUM, same asFRETALE, frying pan
FRISILIS, FRICTILIS, FUSILIS, ℞131
FRITTO MISTO (It.), ℞46
Friture, (Fr.) frying fat, ℞42, seq.
FRIXUS, roast, fried, also dried or parched, term which causes some confusion in the several editions
Frontispice, 2nd Lister Edition, illustration, p.156
Fronto, a Roman, ℞246,374
FRUGES, farinaceous dishes
Fruit dishes, ℞ 64, 72; Fruits, p.210; —— dried, Summary, p.370—— Bowl illustration, pp.61,125
FRUMENTUM, grain, wheat or barley
Frying, ℞42, seq.
Frying pans, illustrated, cf.FRETALEandSARTAGO
Fulda Ms., cf.Apiciana
FUNGUS, mushroom; —ULUS, small m.; seeBOLETUS—— FARNEI, ℞309, seq.
FURCA, a two-pronged fork; —ULA, —ILLA (dim.) a small fork. FUSCINA, —ULA, a three-pronged fork. Cf. “Forks and Fingerbowls as Milestones in Human Progress,” by the author, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, Chicago, Aug., 1933, pp. 84-87
FURNUS, oven, bake oven. See illustration, p.2
G
Galen, writer, ℞396,410
GALLINA, hen; —ULA, little hen; —ARIUS, poulterer
GALLUS, cock
Game of all kinds, sauce for, ℞349—— birds, ℞218, seq.
GANONAS CRUDAS, fish, ℞153
GARATUM, prepared withGARUM, which see
Gardener, The—Title of BookIII, ℞377
GARUM (Gr.: GARON) a popular fish sauce made chiefly of the scomber or mackerel, but formerly from the GARUS, hence the name, cf. p.22, ℞10,33,471
Mackerel is the oiliest fish, and plentiful, very well suited for the making of G.
G. was also a pickle made of the blood and the gills of the tunny and of the intestines of mackerel and other fish. The intestines were exposed to the sun and fermented. This has stirred up controversies; the ancients have been denounced for the “vile concoctions,” but garum has been vindicated by modern science as to its rational preparation and nutritive qualities. Codfish oil, for instance, has long been known for its medicinal properties, principally Vitamin D; this is being increased today by exposure to ultraviolet rays (just what the ancients did). The intestines are the most nutritious portions of fish
G. still remains a sort of mystery. Its exact mode of preparation is not known. It was very popular and expensive, therefore was subject to a great number of variations in quality and in price, and to adulteration. For all these reasons GARUM has been the subject of much speculation. It appears that the original meaning of G. became entirely lost in the subsequent variations
In 1933 Dr. Margaret B. Wilson sent the author a bottle of GARUM ROMANUM which she had compounded according to the formulae at her disposal. This was a syrupy brown liquid, smelled like glue and had to be dissolved in water or wine, a few drops of the G. to a glass of liquid, of which, in turn, only a few drops were used to flavor a fish sauce, etc.
—— SOCIORUM, the best kind of G.; ALEXGARIVITIUM, the cheap kind of G., cf.ALEX, HALEC. OENOGARUM, G. mixed with wine; HYDROGARUM, G. mixed with water; OLEOGARUM, G. mixed with oil; OXYGARUM, G. mixed with vinegar
GARUS, small fish from which the real GARUM was made
GELO, cause to freeze, to congeal; GELU, jellyGELU IN PATINA, gelatine: “QUOD VULGO GELATINAM VOCAMUS”—Platina
Georg, Carl, Bibliographer, p.257
Gesamt-Katalog, bibliography, p.261
Gesner, Conrad, Swiss scientist, bibliographer, polyhistor, seeSchola Apitiana, p.206
GETHYUM, —ON, same asPALLACANA, an onion
Giarratano, C., editor, Apiciana, pp.18,19,26,271,273
GINGIBER, ginger; also ZINGIBER, faulty reading of the “G” by medieval scribes
GINGIDON, —IUM, a plant of Syria; according to Spengel the French carrot. Paulus Aegineta says: “BISACUTUM (SIC ENIM ROMANI GINGIDION APPELLANT) OLUS EST SCANDICI NON ABSIMILE,” hence a chervil root, or parsnip, or oysterplant
GLANDES, any kernel fruit, a date, a nut, etc.
Glasse, Mrs. Hannah, writer, ℞127
GLIS, pl. GLIRES, dormouse, a small rodent, very much esteemed as food. GLIRARIUM, cage or place where they were kept or raised, ℞396
Gluttons, p.11
Goat, wild, ℞346, seq. —— liver, ℞291-3
Gollmer, R., editor, Apiciana, pp.18,35,270
GONG for slaves, illustration, p.151
Goose, p.265; white sauce for, ℞228
Grapes, to keep, ℞19
Greek influence on Roman cookery, p.12, seq.—— Banquet, by Anacharsis, p.8
Greek monographs, p.43
Green beans, p.247, ℞202,206
Greens, green vegetables, ℞99
Grimod de la Reynière, writer, p.4, cf.Mappa
Gruel, p.210; ℞172,200-1, seq. —— and wine, ℞179-80
GRUS, crane; GRUEM, ℞212-3; —— EX RAPIS, ℞215-6
Gryphius, S., printer, Apiciana No.6, facsimile of title, p.263
Guégan, Bertrand, editor, p.271, seq.
Guinea Hen, ℞239, cf. “Turkey Origin,” by the author, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, for February and March, 1935, Chicago
GULA, gluttony
GUSTUS, taste; also appetizers and relishes and certain entrées of a meal, Hors d’oeuvres. Cf.CENA, ℞174-77
H
Habs, R., writer, p.18
HAEDUS, HAEDINUS, kid, ℞291-3,355, seq.—— SYRINGIATUS, ℞360; —— PARTHICUM, ℞364; —— TARPEIANUM, ℞363; —— LAUREATUM EX LACTE, ℞365; —— LASARATUM, ℞496
HALEC, seeALEC
HALIEUS, HALIEUTICUS, pertaining to fish; title of BookX, p.356
Ham, fresh, p.285, ℞287-9
HAND-MILL, operated by Slaves, illustration, p.60
HAPANTAMYNOS, ℞497
Harcum, C. G., writer, seeCOQUUS
Hard-skinned peaches, to keep, ℞28
Hare, B.VIII, ℞382, seq. —— imitation, ℞384; —— braised, ℞382-3; —— different dressings, ℞383; —— Stuffed, ℞384,91; —— white sauce for, ℞385; —— lights of, ℞386-7; —— liver, ℞170; —— in its own broth, ℞388; —— smoked Passenianus, ℞389; —— tidbits, kromeskis, ℞390; —— boiled, ℞393; —— spiced sauce, ℞393; —— sumptuous style, ℞394; —— spiced, ℞395
Haricot of lamb, ℞355
HARPAGO, a meat hook for taking boiled meat out of the pot, with five or more prongs; hence “harpoon.” Cf.FURCA
“Haut-goût” in birds, to overcome it, ℞229-30
Headcheese, ℞125
Heathcock, ℞218, seq.
HELENIUM, plant similar to thyme(?); the herb elecampane or starwort
Heliogabalus, emperor, p.11
HEMINA, a measure, about half a pint
Henry VIII, of England, edict on kitchens, p.156
HERBAE RUSTICAE, ℞107
Herbs, pot herbs, to keep, ℞25
Hildesheim Treasure, found in 1868, a great collection of Roman silverware, now in the Kaiser Friedrich Museum, Berlin, our illustrations show a number of these pieces, p.43
Hip, dog-briar, ℞171
HIRCOSIS AVIBUS, DE, ℞229-30
Hirpinus, Fluvius, Roman, ℞323,396, who raised animals for the table
HISPANUM, seeOleum
HOEDUS, seeHAEDUS
HOLERA, pot herbs, ℞25,66; also OLERA and HOLISERA, from HOLUS
HOLUS, OLUS, kitchen vegetables, particularly cabbage, ℞99
Home-made sweets, ℞294
Honey cakes, ℞16
Honey Refresher, ℞2; —— cake, ℞16; —— to renew spoiled, ℞17; testing quality of, ℞18; —— pap, ℞181; see also Chap.XIII, BookVII
Horace, writer, pp. 3,4,273, ℞455
HORDEUM, barley
Horned fish, ℞442
Hors d’oeuvres, ℞174; cf.GUSTUS
HORTULANUS, gardener, Hortolanus, pork, ℞378
Horseradish, ℞102
House of the Oven in Pompeii, illustration, p.2
Humelbergius, Gabriel, editor, ℞307; title page of his 1542 edition, p.265
Hunter style, ℞263
HYDROGARATA, foods, sauces prepared withGARUM(which see) and water, ℞172
HYDROMELI, rain water and honey boiled down one third
HYPOTRIMA, —IMMA, a liquid dish, soup, sauce, ragout, composed of many spiced things, ℞35
HYSITIUM, ISICIUM, a mince, a hash, a sausage, forcemeat, croquette, ℞41-56. The term “croquette” used by Gollmer does not fully cover H.; some indeed, resemble modern croquettes and kromeskis very closely. The ancients, having no table forks and only a few knives (which were for the servants’ use in carving) were fond of such preparations as could be partaken of without table ware. The reclining position at table made it almost necessary for them to eat H.; such dishes gave the cooks an opportunity for the display of their skill, inventive ability, their decorative and artistic sense. As “predigested” food, such dishes are decided preferable to the “grosses-pièces,” which besides energetic mastication require skillful manipulation of fork and knife; such exercise was unwelcome on the Roman couches. Modern nations, featuring “grosses-pièces” do this at the expense of high-class cookery. The word, H., is probably a medieval graecification of INSICIUM. Cf.ISICIA
HYSSOPUS, the herb hyssop; H. CRETICUS, marjoram. Also Hysopum creticum, hyssop from the island of Creta, ℞29
I
IECUR, JECUR, liver; ℞291-3. IECUSCULUM, small (poultry, etc.) liver
Ihm, Max, writer, p.19
Ill-smelling fish sauce, ℞9; ditto birds, ℞229-30
Indian peas, ℞187
Ink-fish, ℞405
INSICIA, chopped meat, sausage, forcemeat, dressing, stuffing for roasts, ℞42; seeHysitiaandIsicia; —ARIUS, sausage maker
INTINCTUS, a sauce, seasoning, brine or pickle in which meat, etc., is dipped. SeeEMBAMMA, ℞344
INTUBUS, INTYBUS, —UM, chicory, succory, endive, ℞109
INULA HELENIUM, the herb elecampane or starwort
ISICIA, seeHYSITIA, ℞41-54,145—— AMULATA AB AHENO, ℞54; —— DE CAMMARIS, ℞43; —— DE CEREBELLIS, ℞45; —— DE LOLLIGINE, ℞42; —— DE SPONDYLIS, ℞46; —— DE PULLO, ℞50; —— DE SCILLIS, ℞43; —— HYDROGARATA, ℞49; —— PLENA, ℞48; —— SIMPLEX, ℞52; —— DE TURSIONE, ℞145
Italian Salad, ℞123
IUS, JUS, any juice or liquid, or liquor derived from food, a broth, soup, sauce. IUSCELLUM, more frequently and affectionately, IUSCULUM, the diminutive of I.—— DE SUO SIBI, pan-gravy; such latinity as this proves the genuineness of the Apicius text, ℞153; —— IN DIVERSIS AVIBUS, ℞210-228; —— IN ELIXAM, ℞271-7; —— IN VENATIONIBUS, ℞349, seq. —— DIABOTANON, ℞432; —— IN PISCE ELIXO, ℞433-6; —— ALEXANDRINUM, ℞437-9; —— CONGRO, ℞440; —— IN CORNUTAM, ℞441; —— IN MULLOS, ℞442-3; —— PELAMYDE, ℞444; —— IN PERCAM, ℞446; —— IN MURENA, ℞448,449-52; —— IN PISCE ELIXO, ℞454; —— IN LACERTOS ELIXOS, ℞455; —— PISCE ASSO, ℞456; —— THYNNO, ℞457; —— ELIXO, ℞458; —— IN DENTICE ASSO, ℞459-60; —— IN PISCE AURATA, ℞461-2; —— IN SCORPIONE, ℞463; —— PISCE OENOGARUM, ℞464-5; —— ANGUILLAM, ℞466-7
J
Jardinière, ℞378
JECINORA, ℞291
Jewish Cookery, compared with Apician, ℞205
Johannes de Cereto de Tridino, Venetian printer, p.261
John of Damascus, seeTorinus editionof 1541, Basel
Julian Meal Mush, ℞178
K
Keeping meat and fish, ℞10-14, seq.
Kettner, writer, p.38
Kid, p.314, ℞355, seq. —— liver, ℞291-93; —— stew, ℞355-8; —— roast, ℞359-62; —— boned, ℞360-1; —— Tarpeius, ℞363-4; —— Prize, ℞365; —— plain, ℞366; —— laser, ℞496
Kidney beans, ℞207-8
King, Dr. W., writer, quoted:Introduction, pp.38,267
Kromeskis, ℞44,47,60; cf.ISICIAandHYSITIA
Kyrene, Cyrene, City of Northern Africa, seeLaser
L
Labor item in cookery, pp.18,24
LAC, milk; —— FISSILE, cottage cheese
LACERTUS, a sea-fish, not identified, ℞147,152,455-7
LACTARIS, having milk, made of milk; —IUS, dairyman
LACTES, small guts, chitterlings
LACTUA, LACTUCULA, lettuce, ℞105,109-11
LAGANUM, a certain farinaceous dish; small cake made of flour and oil, a pan cake
LAGENA, —ONA, —OENA, —UNA, flask, bottle
Lamb, ℞291-3,355-65,495-6; preparations same asKid, which see
Lambecius, Petrus, writer, on “The Porker’s Last Will,” ℞376
Lanciani, Rodolfo, writer, pp.29,30
Lancilotus, Blasius, co-editor, 1498-1503 editions, pp.27-30,41—see alsoTacuinus—facsimile of opening chapter, 1503, p.232
Langoust, ℞485
LANX, broad platter, dish, charger, ℞455
LAPA, LAPATHUM, LAPADON, same asRUMEX, ℞26
Larding, ℞394
LARIDUM, LARDUM, ℞147,290; cf.SALSUM
LASER, LASERPITIUM, —ICIUM, the juice or distillate of the herb by that name, also known as SILPHIUM, SYLPHIUM, Greek, SYLPHION. Some agree that this is our present asa foetida, while other authorities deny this. Some claim its home is in Persia, while others say the best LASER came from Cyrene (Kyrene), Northern Africa. The center picture of the so-called Arkesilas-Bowl of Vulci at Paris, Cab. d. Méd. 189, represents a picture as seen by the artist in Kyrene how King Arkesilas (VI. saec.) watches the weighing and the stowing away in the hold of a sailing vessel of a costly cargo of sylphium. It was an expensive and very much esteemed flavoring agent, and, for that reason, the plant which grew only in the wild state, was probably exterminated
There is much speculation, but its true nature will not be revealed without additional information
℞15,31,32,34,100; p.22
Method of flavoring with laser-impregnated nuts, ℞15
LASERATUS, LASARATUS, prepared or seasoned with LASER, or SILPHIUM
Latin title of Vehling translation,opposite title page
LAUREATUM, prepared with LAURUS; also in the sense of excellence in quality, ℞365,373
LAURUS CINNAMOMUM, cinnamon; —— NOBILIS, laurel leaf, bay leaf
La Varenne, French cook, p.16
Laws, sumptuary, p.25, ℞166
Laxatives, ℞4,5,6,29,34
Leeks, p.188, ℞93-6; —— and beans, ℞96
LEGUMEN, leguminous plants; all kinds of pulse-peas, beans lentils, etc., BookV
LENS, LENTICULA, lentils, ℞183-4
LEPIDIUM SATIVUM, watercress
LEPOREM MADIDUM, ℞382, seq. —— FARSUM, ℞384; —— PASSENIANUM, ℞389; —— ISICIATUM, ℞390; —— FARSILEM, ℞391; —— ELIXIUM, ℞392; —— SICCO SPARSUM, ℞394; —— LEPORIS CONDITURA, ℞393-5
LEPUS, hare; LEPUSCULUM, young hare; LEPORARIUM, a place for keeping hare; LEPORINUM MINUTAL, minced hare, Hasenpfeffer, ℞382-395
Lettuce, B.V, ℞105,109-111; —— and endives, ℞109; —— purée of, ℞130
LEUCANTHEMIS, camomile
LEUCOZOMUS, “creamed,” prepared with milk, ℞250
Lex Fannia, ℞166
Liaison, lié, ℞54; cf.AMYLARE
LIBELLI, little ribs, spare ribs, also loin of pork, ℞251
LIBRA, weight, 1 pound (abb. “lb.” still in use); LIBRAE, balances, scales
LIBURNICUM, see oil,oleum
LIGUSTICUM, lovage (from Liguria) also LEVISTICUM; identical with garden lovage, savory, basilica, satury, etc.
LIQUORIBUS, DE, p.370
LIQUAMEN, any kind of culinary liquid, depending upon the occasion. It may be interpreted as brine, stock, gravy, jus, sauce, drippings, marinade, natural juice; it must be interpreted in the broadest sense, as the particular instance requires. This much disputed term has been illustrated also in page22. Also see ℞9,42
Liquids, Summary of, p.370—— thickening of, by means of flour, eggs, etc., called Liaison, cf.AMYLARE
Lister, Dr. Martinus, editor, edition of 1705, title page, ditto, verso of, ditto of 1709, p.38;frontispice—— quoted in many foot notes, ℞8, seq.—— assailing Torinus, p.13, ℞15,26,100,205—— edition, 1709, facsimile, p.250
Liver kromeskis, ℞44; fig-fed, of pig, ℞259-60; —— and lungs, ℞291-3; —— hash, ℞293; —— of fish, seeGARUMandPollio
Lobster, ℞398,399,400,401,2; in various ways
LOCUSTA, a langoust, spiny lobster, large lobster without claws; ℞397-402,485; —— ASSAE, ℞398; —— ELIXAE, ℞399,401-2
Loins, p.285, ℞286
LOLIGO, LOLLIGO, calamary, cuttle-fish, ℞42,405
LOLIUM, LOLA, darnel, rye-grass, ray-grass, meal. The seeds of this grass were milled, the flour or meal believed to possess some narcotic properties, as stated by Ovid and Plautus, but recent researches have cast some doubt upon its reported deleterious qualities. Apicius, ℞50, reads LOLAE FLORIS
LONGANO, a blood sausage, ℞61. The LONGANONES PORCINOS EX IURE TARENTINO in ℞140is a part of the PATINA EX LACTE; a pork sausage made in Tarent of the straight gut, the rectum. Lister says they are cooked in Tarentinian sauce and are not unlike the sausagecalled APEXABO and HILLA. These sausages were in vogue before the Italians learned to make them; it was in Epirus, Greece, that they were highly developed. Their importation into Rome caused quite a stir, politically. Lister, ℞ 50, p. 119, describes the sausage and calls the inhabitants of Tarent “most voluptuous, soft and delicate” because Juvenal, Sat. VI, v. 297, takes a shot at Tarent
This part of Italy, and especially Sicily, because in close contact with Greece was for many years much farther advanced in art of cookery than the North
Lucania, district of lower Italy whence came the Lucanian sausage, p.172, ℞61; see alsoLONGANO
LUCIUS FLUVIALIS, a river fish, perch, or pike, according to some; Platina also calls it LICIUS. Cf.MERULA
Lucretian Dish, ℞151
Lucullus, Roman general, proverbial glutton, has a place here because of his importation into Rome of the cherry, which he discovered in Asia Minor. He cannot be expected to be represented in the Apicius book because he died 57 B.C.
LUCUSTA, seeLOCUSTA
LUMBUS, loin, (Ger. LUMMEL), ℞286; LUMBELLI, ℞255
Lung, ℞291-2
LUPINUS, lupine
LUPUS, fish, ℞158
M
MACELLARIUS, MACELLINUS, market man, butcher
MACELLUM, market
MACERO, to soak, soften, steep in liquor, macerate; MACERATUM, food thus treated
MACTRA, trough for kneading dough
MAGIRUS, MAGEIROS, cook, seeCOQUUS