Chapter 16

MALABATHRUM —THRON, ℞32,399

Mallows, ℞86

MALUS, fruit tree, apple tree; —— PUNICORUM, pomegranate; —— ASSYRIA, —— CITRUS DECUMANA, one of the larger citrus fruits; —— MEDICA, citron tree; —— CYDONIA, quince tree

MALUM, fruit, an apple, but quinces, pomegranates, peaches, oranges, lemons, and other fruits were likewise designated by this name. ℞18,20. See alsoCITRUM

It is remarkable that Apicius does not specifically speak of lemons and oranges, fruits that must have grown in Italy at his time, that are so indispensable to modern cookery

MALUM PUNICUM, ℞20,21; —— CYDONIUM, ℞21; —— GRANATUM, ℞20; —— MEDICUM, ℞24; —— ROSEUM, ℞178,171. This name, which according to Schuch simply stands for a rose-colored apple, has led to the belief that the ancients made pies, etc., of roses. Today a certain red-colored apple is known as “Roman Beauty.” We concur in Schuch’s opinion, remembering, however, that the fruit of the rose tree, namely the hip, dog-briar, or eglantine, is made into dainty confections on the Continent today. It is therefore quite possible that MALUM ROSEUM stands for the fruit of the rose

MANDUCO, to chew, to munch, to enjoy food by munching; a glutton

MAPPA, table napkin (Fr. nappe). M. is a Punic word, according to Quintil. 1, 5, 57

Each banquet guest brought with him from his own home such a napkin or cloth which he used during the banquet to wipe his mouth and hands. The ancients, evidently, were conscious of the danger of infection through the common use of napkins and table ware. Sometimes they used their napkins to wrap up part of the meal and to give it to their slaves to carry home in. Horace, Martial, Petronius attest to this fact. The banquet guests also employed their own slaves to wait on them at their Host’s party. This custom and the individual napkin habit have survived until after the French revolution. Grimod de la Reynière, in his Almanach des Gourmands, Paris, 1803, seq., describes how guests furnished their own napkins and servants for their own use at parties to which they were invited

This rather sensible custom relieved the host of much responsibility and greatly assisted him in defraying the expenses of the dinner. On the other hand it reveals the restrictions placed upon any host by the general shortage of table ware, table linen, laundering facilities in the days prior to the mechanical age

Marcellus, a Roman physician, ℞29

Marinade, pickle; a composition of spices, vegetables, herbs, and liquids, such as vinegar, wine, to preserve meats for several days and to impart to it a special flavor, ℞11,236,244,394; cf.EMBAMMA

MARJORANA, marjoram

Marmites, illustrated, pp.264,284,312,342

MARRUBIUM, the plant horehound

Martial, writer, p.10, ℞307,461(on bulbs)

Martino, Maestro, p.3, cf. Vehling: Martino and Platina, Exponents of Renaissance Cookery, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, Chicago, October, 1932, and Platina, Maestro nell’arte culinaria Un’interessante studio di Joseph D. Vehling, Cremona, 1935

Mason, Mrs., a writer, ℞126

MASTIX, MASTICE, MASTICHE, the sweet-scented gum of the mastiche-tree; hence MASTICATUS, MASTICINUS for foods treated with M.

Matius, a writer, was a friend of Julius Caesar. His work is lost, ℞167; apples named after him,ibid.

MAYONNAISE DE VOLAILLE EN ASPIC, ℞126,480

Meal mush, BookV, ℞178

Measures, liquid. The following list is confined to terms used in ApiciusPARTES XV equal 1 CONGIUSCONGIUS I equal 6 SEXTARII (1 S. equals about 1½ pt. English)SEXTARII II equal 1 CHOENIXSEXTARIUS I equal 2 HEMINASHEMINA I equal 4 ACETABULAACETABULUM I equal 12 CYATHI (15 Attic drachms)CYATHUS I equal1/12SEXTARIUS (a cup)COCHLEAR I equal ¼ CYATHUS (a spoonful)COTULA, COTYLA, same asHEMINA, same as ½ SEXTARIUSQUARTARIUS I equal ¼ pint

Meat ball, ℞261, seq. —— with laser, ℞472-3; meat, boiled, stewed, ℞271; keeping of, ℞10,13; how to make pickled meat sweet, ℞12; to decorate or garnish, ℞394, (seemarinade); meat pudding, ℞42; —— loaf, ℞384, 172

Meat displayed in windows, p.73; ancient —— diet, p.31; ancient —— supply, p.31

Meat diet, ancient, pp.30,31

Meat supply, ancient and modern, p.31

Medicinal formulae in Apicius, ℞4,5,6,29,34,67,68,68,70,71,108,111,307

MEDIUM, an iris or lily root which was preserved (candied) with honey, same as ginger, or fruit glacé

Medlar, ℞159; seeMESPILA

Megalone, place where Torinus found the Apicius codex, p.266

MEL, honey; MELLITUM, sweetened with honey—— PRAVUM, ℞15; —— PROBANDUM, ℞16; —— ET CASEUM, ℞303

MELCAE, ℞294,303

MELEAGRIS, Turkey; cf. Vehling: “Turkey Origin,” Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, Chicago, February-March, 1935

MELIRHOMUM, MELIZOMUM, ℞2

MELO, small melon, B.III, ℞85; MELOPEPO, muskmelon

Melon, ℞85

MENSA, repast, seeCENA

MENTHA, MINTHA, mint; —— PIPERITA, peppermint

“Menu,” cf.Brevis Ciborum, Excerpts of Vinidarius, p.235

Merling, seeMERULA

MERULA, MERLUCIUS, cf.LUCIUS, a fish called merling, whiting, also smelt; Fr. MERLAN; also blackbird. Platina discussed MERULA, the blackbird, the eating of which he disapproves. “There is little food value in the meat of blackbirds and it increases melancholia,” says he. Perhaps because the bird is “black,” ℞419

MERUS, MERUM, pure, unmixed, “mere,” “merely”; hence MERUM VINUM, —— OLEUM, pure wine, oil, etc.

MESPILA, medlar; Ger. MISPEL

Milan edition, Colophon, p.260

Milk Toast, ℞171

Mill operated by slaves, illustration, p.60

Minced dishes, BookII

Mineral salts in vegetables, ℞71,96

MINUTAL, a “small” dish, a “minutely” cut mince; —— MARINUM, ℞164; —— TARENTINUM, ℞165; —— APICIANUM, ℞166; —— MATIANUM, ℞167; —— DULCE, ℞168; —— EX PRAECOQUIS, ℞169; —— LEPORINUM, ℞170; —— EX ROSIS, ℞171; —— of large fruits, ℞169

MITULIS, IN, ℞418

Mixing bowls, seeCrater

Monk’s Rhubarb, ℞26

“Monkey,” ℞55

Moralists, ancient, seeReview

MORETUM, salad, salad dressing of oil, vinegar, garlic, parsley, etc., cf. ℞38

Morsels, ℞261, seq.,309, seq.

MORTARIA, foods prepared in the mortar, MORTARIUM, ℞38,221

MORUS, mulberry; —— ALBA, white m. —— NIGRA, black m. Platina, DE MORIS, has a very pretty simile, comparing the various stages of ripening and colors of the mulberry to the blushing of Thysbes, the Egyptian girl, ℞24

Moulds, ℞384,126

MUGIL, sea-mullet, ℞159,419,424,425

Mulberries, ℞24

Mullet, seeMULLUS, ℞148,428,443-4

MULLUS, the fish mullet, ℞148,427,442,443,482-4

MULSUM, mead, honey-wine; —— ACETUM, honey-vinegar

Munich Ms.XVIIIApiciana

MURENA, MURAENA, the sea fish murena, p.356, ℞448-53,484

MUREX, shellfish, purple-fish

MURIA, brine, salt liquor, p.22, ℞30; cf.ALEC

Mush, ℞178

Mushrooms, B.III, ℞121,309-14; —— Omelette, ℞314

Muskrat, ℞396

Mussels, ℞418

MUSTEIS PETASONEM, ℞289

MUSTEOS AFROS, ℞295

MUSTUM, fresh, young, new; —— VINUM, must, new wine; —— OLEI, new oil

MYRISTICA, nutmeg

MYRRHIS ODORATA, myrrh, used for flavoring wine

MYRTUS, myrtle berry, often called “pepper” and so used instead of pepper

MYRTUS PIMENTA, allspice

N

NAPKINS, individual, seeMAPPA

NAPUS, p.188, a turnip, navew, ℞100-1

NARDUS, nard, odoriferous plant; seeFOLIUM

NASTURTIUM, the herb cress

NECHON, ℞16

Neck, roast, ℞270

NEPATA, cat-mint; —— MONTANA, mountain mint; seeMENTHA

Nero, emperor, p.11

Nettles, ℞108

New York codex, No.I, Apiciana

Newton, Sir Isaac, scientist, Apiciana No.8, p.268

NITRIUM, ℞66

Nonnus, writer, ℞307,396

NOVENDIALES, seeCENA

NUCEA LASERIS, ℞16; also seeLASER

NUCLEUS, nut, kernel, ℞92

NUCULA, dim. of NUX, small nut; also a certain muscular piece of meat from the hind leg of animals, Fr. NOIX DE VEAU, as of veal, Ger. KALBSNUSS, and a certain small part of the loin of animals, Fr. NOISETTE

NUMIDICUS, PULLUS,guinea hen, which see

Nut custard, turn-over, ℞129,143; —— porridge, ℞297-9; —— pudding, ℞298,299,230; —— meal mush, ℞300

Nuts, Summary of, p.236

NUX, p.236, a nut, both hazel nut and walnut; —— JUGLANDIS, walnut; —— PINEIS, —— PINEA, pine nuts, pignolia; —— MUSCATA, nutmeg

O

OBLIGABIS, ℞83; also seeAMYLARE

OBSONARE, to provide, to buy for the table; to prepare or to give a dinner; from the Greek, OPSON

OBSONATOR, steward

OBSONIUM, OP—, a dish, a meal, anything eaten with bread

OCIMUM, —YMUM, —UMUM, OCINUM, basil, basilica; also a sort of clover

OENOGARUM, wine andGARUM(which see), a wine sauce, ℞33,146,465; OENOGARATUM, a dish prepared with O.

OENOMELI, wine and honey

OENOPOLIUM, wine shop; a wine dealer’s place, who, however, did a retail business. The TABERNA VINARIA seems to have been the regular wine restaurant, while the THERMOPOLIUM specialized in hot spiced wines. Like today in our complicated civilization, there were in antiquity a number of different refreshment places, each with its specialties and an appropriate name for the establishment

OENOTEGANON, ℞479,81

OFFA, OFFELLA, OFELLA, a lump or ball of meat, a “Hamburger Steak,” a meat dumpling, any bit of meat, a morsel, chop, small steak, collop, also various other “dainty” dishes, consisting principally of meat

“INTER OS ET OFFAM MULTA INTERVENIUNT”—Cato; the ancient equivalent for our “’twixt cup and lip there is many a slip”

℞261; —— APICIANA, ℞262; —— APRUGNEA MORE, ℞263; —— ALIAE, ℞264-5; —— LASERATA, ℞271; —— GARATAS, ℞471-74; —— ASSAS, ℞472,473

Oil substitute, ℞9; —— oil, to clarify for frying ℞250—— Liburnian, ℞7

OLEUM, oil, olive oil; —— LIBURNICUM, ℞7; HISPANUM, Spanish olive oilOLEATUS, moistened, mixed, dressed with oil,103; —— MOLLE, vegetables strained, a purée, ℞103-106; also HOLUS, etc.

OLIFERA, OLYRA, a kind of corn, spelt, ℞99; seeOLUS

OLIVA, olive, ℞30,91; to keep olives green, ℞30

OLLA, a cook pot, a terra-cotta bowl; see alsoCACCABUS. OLLULA, a small O., a casserole, or cassolette. Sp. OLLA PODRIDA, “rotten pot”

OLUS, OLUSATRUM, OLUSTRUM, OLUSCULUM, OLERA, OLISERA, OLIFERA, OLISATRA, any herb, kitchen greens, pot herbs, sometimes cabbage, from OLITOR, the truck farmer, ℞25,67,99,103OLUS ET CAULUS, cabbage and cale, ℞

OLUSATRUM, seeOLUS

Omelette with sardines, ℞146; —— with mushrooms, ℞314; —— Soufflée, ℞302

OMENTUM, caul, the abdominal membrane, used for sausage-making or to wrap croquettes (kromeskis) which then were OMENTATA, ℞43,47

Onions, ℞304-8

OPERCULUM, a cover, lid, or dish with a cover

Opossum, ℞396

ORIGANUM MARJORANA, marjoram; —— origany; —— VINUM, wine flavored with O.

ORYZA, rice, rice flour; seeRISUM

OSPREON, OSPREOS, OSPRION, legumes, Title of BookV

Ostia, town, harbor of Rome; the OFFELLAE OSTIENSIS, ℞261, are the ancient “Hamburgers”; this seems to confirm the assumption that the population of sea-port towns have a preference for meat balls

OSTREA, oyster, ℞15,410; —RIUM, oyster bed or pit, or place for keeping oysters

Ostrich, ℞210-11

Oval pan, illustration, p.159

Oval service dish, p.43

Oven, ancient bakery in Pompeii, illustration, p.2

OVIS SYLVATICA, OVIFERO, wild sheep, ℞348-50

OVUM, egg; OVA SPHONGIA EX LACTE, ℞302

OXALIS, sorrel

OXALME, acid pickle, vinegar and brine

Oxford Mss., ApicianaX,XI

OXYCOMIUM, pickled olive

OXYGALA, curdled with curds

OXYGARUM, vinegar andGARUM, which see, ℞36,37

OXYPORUS, easily digested, ℞34

OXYZOMUM, seasoned with acid, vinegar, lemon, etc.

Oyster sauce, CUMINATUM, ℞41

Oysters, how to keep, ℞14,410,411—— shipped by Apicius, p.10

P

PALLACANA CEPA, shallot, young onion; cf.CEPA

Pallas Athene Dish, The Great, illustration, p.158

PALMA, PALMITA, palm shoots

PALUMBA, wood pigeon, ℞220

Pan with decorated handle, p.73

Panada, ℞127

PANAX, PANACEA, the herb all-heal; it contains a savory juice likeLASERandFERULA

PANDECTES, —ER, a book on all sorts of subjects; Title of BookIV

PANIS, bread, PICENTINUS, ℞126

Pans, kitchen, see illustrations, pp.155,159

Pap, ℞172-3,182

PAPAVER, poppy-seed; —— FICI, fig-seed

PARADOXON, CONDITUM, ℞1

Parboiling, ℞119

Paris Mss., ApicianaIII,IV

Parrot, ℞231-2

Parsnips, ℞121-3

PARTHIA, ℞191,237,364; a country of Asia

Partridge, ℞218, seq.,499

Passenius, —anus, an unidentified Roman, ℞389

PASSER, a sea-fish, turbot; also a sparrow which Platina does not recommend for the table

PASSUM, raisin wine

PASTINACA, —CEA, parsnip, carrot, ℞121-3; also a fish, the sting-ray

Pastry, absent, p.43

PATELLA, a platter or dish on which food was cooked and served, corresponding to our gratin dishes; a dish in general. In this sense it is often confused withPATINA, which see, so that it has become difficult to distinguish between the two terms—— THIROTARICA, ℞144; —— ARIDA, ℞145; —— EX OLISATRO, ℞145a; —— SICCA, ℞145

PATELLARIUS, pertaining to a PATELLA; also one who makes or sells dishes, and, in the kitchen, also a dishwasher; cf.PATINARIUS

PATINA, PATENA, a pot, pan, dish, plate; also food, eating, a dish, or cookery in general in which sense it corresponds to our “cuisine”

PATINARIUS, a glutton, gormandizer, also a pile of dishes, also the craftsman who makes and the merchant who sells dishes as well as the scullion who washes them

PATINA APICIANA, ℞141; —— APUA, ℞138-9,146; —— DE ASPARAGIS, ℞132-33; —— DE CYDONIIS, ℞163; —— EX LACTE, ℞140; —— EX LARIDIS ET CEREBELLIS, ℞147; —— FRISILIS, ℞131; —— EX RUSTICIS, ℞134; —— DE ROSIS, ℞136; —— DE LACERTIS, ℞152; —— DE LUPO, ℞158; —— DE PERSICIS, ℞160; —— EX URTICA, ℞162; —— EX SOLEIS, ℞154; —— EX PISCIBUS, ℞155-7,486; —— MULLIS, ℞148; —— QUIBUSLIBET, ℞149; —— ALIA PISCIUM, ℞150; —— SOLEARUM EX OVIS, ℞487; —— QUOTIDIANA, ℞122,142; —— VERSATILIS, ℞129,143; —— ZOMORE, ℞153; —— DE PIRIS, ℞161; —— DE SORBIS, ℞159; —— DE SAMBUCO, ℞135; —— DE CUCURBITIS, ℞137

PAVO, peacock, ℞54

Peaches, a dish of, ℞160

Peacock, BookVI, ℞54

Pears, ℞22,161

Peas, p.247, ℞185-6,190-2; —— a tempting dish of, ℞192; —— Indian, ℞187; —— purée of peas, cold, ℞188; —— or beans à la Vitellius, ℞189,193; —— in the pod, Apician style, ℞194-6; —— in the pod à la Commodus, ℞197; purée of peas with brains and chicken, ℞198

PECTINE, scallop, ℞52

Peeling young vegetables, ℞69

PELAMIS, young tunny, ℞426,444

Pennell, Elizabeth R., writer, pp.17,18,257-58

PEPON, a kind of gourd, melon or pumpkin, ℞85

Pepper, ℞1; —— for other spices, ℞143,177,295, seq.

PERCA, perch, ℞446

Perch, ℞446

PERDICE, IN, ℞218

PERDRIX, partridge, ℞218, seq.,499

PERNA, ham; pork forequarter or hindquarter, ℞287,288—— APRUGNA, ℞338

PERSICUM, peach, ℞29,160; —US, peach-tree

Persons named in recipes, pp.11,21

PETASO, fresh ham, hind leg of pork, ℞289

Petits pois à la française, ℞185

Petits salés, ℞41,147,149,150,151

Petronius Arbiter, writer, pp.3,7,11,15

PETROSELINUM, parsley

PHARIAM, UVAM PASSAM, ℞197

PHASEOLUS, FASEOLUS, green string beans, kidney bean, young bean and pod, both green and wax bean varieties. Ger. FISOLE and FASOLE, ℞207

PHASIANUS, pheasant; —ARIUS, one who has care of or who raises pheasants, game-keeper, ℞49, p.265

Pheasant, dumplings of, ℞48; — plumage as decoration, ℞213

Phillipps, bibl. ApicianaI

PHOENICOPTERUS, Flamingo, ℞220,231-2

Picentinian bread, ℞126

Pichon, Baron J., collector, pp.257-8, Apiciana, Nos.21-22, p.272

Picking birds, ℞233

Pie chimneys, ℞141

Pig, seePORCELLUM

PIPER, pepper; —— NIGRUM, black p.; —— VIRIDUM, green p., ℞134; “pepper” for other spices, ℞143,177,295, seq. —ATUS, prepared with p.

PIPERITIS, pepperwort, Indian pepper, capsicum

PIPIO, a young bird, a squab; from the chirping or “peeping” sounds made by them; —— EXOSSATUS, boned squab

PIRUM, pear, ℞160-1

PISA, —UM, peas, pea, ℞185, seq.,190-2,195-8; —— FARSILIS, ℞186; —— INDICAM, ℞187; —— FRIGIDA, ℞188; —M VITELLIANAM, ℞189,193; —— ADULTERAM, ℞192

PISCINA, fish pond, fish tank, which was found in every large Roman household to keep a supply of fresh fish on hand

PISCIS, fish; PISCES FRIXOS, ℞476-7; —— SCORPIONES RAPULATOS, ℞475; —— ASSOS, ℞478; —— OENOTEGANON, ℞479,81; —— IN PISCIBUS ELIXIS, ℞486; —— IN PISCE ELIXO, ℞433,434,435,436,454; —— AURATA, ℞461; —— ASSA, ℞462; —— OENOGARUM, ℞464-5

PISTACIUM, —EUM, pistache

PISTOR, baker, pastry cook, confectioner, seeCOQUUS

Pitch, for sealing of vessels, ℞25

PLACENTA, a certain cake, a cheese cake

Plaster in bread, p.39—— for sealing of pots, ℞23

Platina, Bartolomeo, humanist, writer, pp.8,9,19, Apiciana No.6, and often quoted in this index. Author of first printed Cookery book. Cf. Martino and Platina Exponents of Renaissance Cookery, by J. D. Vehling. Cf.Cibarium,Cornum,Corvus,Frictella,Merula,Morus,Passer,Ranae,Risum,Sturnus,Styrio,Thinca,Thymus,Zanzerella

Plato, writer, p.12

Platters, Roast, p.219; Athene, p.158

Plautus, writer, p.147; —— naming cooks, ℞484; Plautian Latinity, ℞153

Pliny, writer, p.31, ℞307,396,410

Plumage of birds as a decoration, ℞213

Plums, ℞22

Plutarch, writer, pp.3,66, 128

Poggio, medieval scholar, at Fulda, p.20

POLEI, POLEGIUM, PULEIUM, penny-royal, flea-bane, flea-wort

POLENTA, peeled or pearled barley, ℞178

Pollio, Roman, feeding human flesh to fish, ℞484

POLYPODIUM, the herb fern or polypody

POLYPUS, the fish polypus, ℞410

POLYTELES, POLI—, fine dishes, trimmed, set off; “Recherché” food; Title of BookVII

Pomegranates, to keep, ℞20

Pompeii: Casa di Forno. See p.2—— destroyed, p.3, seq.—— Wine Room, illustration, p.124

Pompeii, city, description of, seeReview. Innkeeper at —— advertising ham, ℞287; objects, table ware, etc., found at P., seelist of illustrations

POMUM, fruit of any tree, as apples, pears, peaches, cherries, figs, dates, nuts, also mulberries and truffles. Cf.MALUM, p.370

PONTUS, Black Sea Region

PORCA, PORCUS, female and male swine; PORCELLUS, PORCELLINUS, young s., pig, ℞336-81,488-94; —— PORCELLUM FARSILEM, ℞366,367; —— ASSUM, ℞369; —— ELIXUM, ℞368; —— APICIANUM, ℞370; —— VITELLIANUM, ℞371; —— LAUREATUM, ℞373; —— FRONTINIANUM, ℞374; —— CELSINIANUM, ℞376,377; —— HORTULANUM, ℞378; —— ELIXUM IUS FRIGIDUM, ℞379; —— TRAIANUM, ℞380; —— CORIANDRATUM, ℞488; —— FLACCIANUM, ℞372; —— OENOCOCTUM, ℞489; —— EO IURE, ℞490; —— THYMO SPARSUM, ℞491; OXYZOMUM, ℞492; —— LASARATUM, ℞493; —— IUSCELLATUM, ℞494; —— ASSUM TRACTOMELINUM, ℞369; —— LACTE PASTUM, ℞370; —— IN PORCELLO LACTANTE, ℞381


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