Pork, p.285; —— and onions à la Lucretius, ℞151; —— skin, cracklings, ℞251-55; —— udder, ℞251; —— tenderloin, ℞251-255; —— tails and feet, ℞251; —— fig-fed, ℞259; —— cutlets, Hunter Style, ℞263; —— paunch, ℞285; —— loin and kidneys, ℞286; —— shoulder, ℞287-88; —— fresh ham, ℞289; —— bacon, ℞290; —— Salt —— ℞290; —— forcemeat, ℞366
Porker, The ——’s Last Will and Testament, ℞376
Porridge, BooksIV,V, ℞172,178; —— and wine sauce, ℞179; —— another, ℞180
PORRUM, —US, leek, ℞93,96; “SECTILE ——”—Martial
PORTULACA, PORCILACA, purslane
POSCA, originally water and vinegar or lemon juice. It became an acid drink of several variations, made with wine, fruit juice, eggs and water
Pot Roast, ℞270
Potherbs, to keep, ℞25,188, seeOLUS
Potted Entrées, ℞54
POTUS, drink
PRAECOQUO, —OCTUS, —OCIA, “cooked beforehand,” also ripened too early, but the present kitchen term is “blanching,” or “parboiling.” Cf.PRAEDURO
PRAEDURO, to harden by boiling, to blanch, ℞119
Preserves, several in BookI
Preserving (keeping of) meats, ℞10-12; —— fried fish, ℞13; —— fruit, figs, prunes, pears, etc., ℞19-24,28, 29,30; —— grapes, ℞19; —— honey cakes, ℞16; —— mulberries, ℞24; —— oysters, ℞14; —— pomegranates, ℞20; —— pot herbs, ℞25; —— quinces, ℞21; —— sorrel, sour dock, ℞26; —— citron, ℞23; —— truffles, ℞27; —— vegetable purée, ℞106
Press, wine illustration, p.92
Processing, ℞19-24
PRUNA, live, burning coal
PRUNUM, plum; —— DAMASCENUM, p. from Damascus, ℞22; this variety came dried, resembling our large prunes. —— SILVESTRIS, sloe berry, which by culture and pruning has become the ancestor of plums, etc.
PTISANA, (better) TISANA, barley broth, rice broth, a gruel, ℞173-3,200-1; —— TARICHA, ℞173
Pudding, ℞60
PULLUS, PULLULUS, young animal of any kind but principally a pullet, chicken, ℞51,2-7,213,235-6, seq.; —— RAPTUS, note 1, ℞140
PULLUM PARTHICUM, ℞237; OXYZOMUM, ℞238; —— NUMIDICUM, ℞239; —— LASERATUM, ℞240; —— ELIXUM, ℞242; —— CUM CUCURBITIS, ℞243; —— CUM COLOCASIIS, ℞244; —— VARDANUM, ℞245; —— FRONTONIANUM, ℞246; —— TRACTOGALATUM, ℞247; —— FARSILIS, ℞248; LEUCOZOMUM, ℞250
PULMENTARIUM, any food eaten with vegetables, pulse or bread, or a dish composed of these ingredients, ℞67-71
PULMO, lung, ℞29
PULPA, —MENTUM, ℞42,134; also PULMENTUM
PULS, —E, PULTICULUM, BooksIV,V, a porridge, polenta, ℞178, seq.; PULTES JULIANAE, ℞178; —— OENOCOCTI, ℞179; —— TRACTOGALATAE, ℞181
PULTARIUS, a bowl, a “cereal” dish, ℞104
Pumpkin, B.III, ℞73-80; —— pie, ℞137; —— fritters, ℞176; —— like dasheens, ℞74; —— Alexandrine Style, ℞75; —— boiled, ℞76; —— fried, ℞77; ——78; —— mashed, ℞79; —— and chicken, ℞80
Purée of lettuce, ℞130
PYRETHRUM, —ON, Spanish camomile, pellitory
Q
QUARTARIUS, ameasure(which see), ¼ pint
Quenelles, ℞131
Quinces, ℞21,162
R
Rabbit, ℞54
Radishes, ℞102
Ragoût of brains and bacon, ℞147; —— financière, ℞166
RAIA, the sea-fish ray, or skate; also whip-ray; p.343, ℞403-4; Raie au beurre noir, ℞404
Raisins, ℞ 30
RANAE, frogs, have been an article of diet for ages. Platina gives fine directions for their preparation. He recommends only frogs living in the water. RUBETAS ET SUB TERRA VIVENTES, UT NOXIAS REJICIO! AQUATILAS HAE SUNT DE QUIBUS LOQUOR
Platina skins the frogs, turns them in flour and fries them in oil; he adds fennel flower garnish and SALSA VIRIDA (green sauce, our ravigote or remoulade) on the side. No modern chef could do different or improve upon it. The fennel blossom garnish is a startling stroke of genius
Rankin, E. M., writer, seeCOQUUS
RAPA, RAPUM, rape, turnip, navew, ℞26,100-1
RAPHANUS SATIVUS, Horseradish, ℞102
Ray, fish, ℞403-4
RECOQUO, RECOCTUM, re-heated, warmed-up
Redsnapper, ℞448
Réduction, ℞145,168
Reference to other parts of the book by Apicius, ℞170,166
Relishes, ℞174-5
RENES, ℞286
Reynière, Grimod de la —— writer, p.3, seeMAPPA
RHOMBUS, fish, turbot
RHUS, a shrub called SUMACH, seed of which is used instead of salt
RISUM, rice, also ORYZA. The word RISUM is used by Platina who says: “RISUM, QUOD EGO ANTIQUO VOCABULO ORIZAM APPELLATUM PUTO.” This is one of the many philologically interesting instances found in Platina and Aegineta of the evolution of a term from the antique to the medieval Latin and finally emerging into modern Italian. What better proof, if necessary, could be desired than this etymology for the authenticity of the Apicius book? Its age could be proven by a philologist if no other proof were at hand
Roasts, Roasting, p.285, ℞266-70
Roman Beauty Apple, ℞136—— excesses, p.15
Roman Cook Stove, illustration, p.182—— economic conditions, p.15
Roman Vermouth, ℞3
ROSATUM, ROSATIUM, flavored with roses; —— VINUM, rose wine, ℞4-6; —— without roses, ℞6
Rose pie, seeMALUM ROSEUM, also ℞136,171—— custard, ℞136; —— pudding, ℞136; —— apple, ℞136
Rose wine, ℞4-6
ROSMARINUS, rosemary
Round sausage, ℞65
Roux, ℞172, seeAMYLARE
RUBELLIO, fish, ℞447
RUBRA TESTA, red earthen pot
RUMEX, sorrel, sour dock, monk’s rhubarb, ℞24
Rumohr, B., writer, pp.3,18
Rumpolt, Marx, cook, cf.Styrio
RUTA, rue; —— HORTENSIS, garden r.; —— SYLVESTRIS, wild r.; —— RUTATUS, prepared with r. Rue was very much esteemed because of its stimulating properties
Rye, ℞99
S
SABUCO, seeSAMBUCO
SACCARUM, SACCHARUM, sugar; distillate from the joints of the bamboo or sugar cane, coming from India, hence called “Indian Salt.” It was very scarce in ancient cookery. Honey was generally used in place of sugar. Only occasionally a shipment of sugar would arrive in Rome from India, supposed to have been cane sugar; otherwise cane and beet sugar was unknown in ancient times. Any kind of sweets, therefore, was considered a luxury
SAL, salt. Laxative salt, ℞29; “For many ills,”ibid.
Sala, George Augustus, writer, p.38
SALACACCABIA, SALACATTABIA, “salt” food boiled in the “caccabus,” ℞125-7,468-70
Salad, ℞109-11; —— dressing, ℞112-3; Italian —— ℞122
Salcisse, ℞41
SALINUM, salt cellar
Salmasius, Codex of ——, see Apiciana,III
SALPA, a sea-fish like stock-fish
SALSAMENTUM IN PORCELLO, ℞381
Salsicium, ℞41
SALSUM, pickled or salt meat, especially bacon; ℞10,41,147,149,150,428, seq.; —— CRUDUM, ℞151, cf.petits salés
Salt, laxative, ℞29; “for many ills,”ibid.; —— meat, to make sweet, ℞12; —— fish, ℞144, seq.,427, seq.; —— balls, ℞145
SALVIA, SALVUS, sage
SAMBUCUS, elder-tree, or e.-berry; ℞135
Sanitary measures, seeMAPPA
SAPA, new wine boiled down
SAPOR, taste, savor, relish; —— ROSELLINUS, rose extract, prepared rose flavor
SARCOPTES, title of BookII
SARDA, SARDELLA, small fish, sardine, anchovy, ℞146,419,420,480; —— CONDITAE, ℞480; SARDAM FARSILEM, ℞419; —— Sardine omelette, ℞146
Sarinus, Pompeiian innkeeper, p.7
SARTAGO, frying pan, flat and round or oblong, of bronze or of iron; some were equipped with hinged handles, to facilitate packing or storing away in small places, in soldiers’ knapsack, or to save space in the pantry. This, as well as the extension handle of some ancient dippers are ingenious features of ancient kitchen utensils. See alsoFRICTORIUM, and the illustrations of pans, pp.155,159
SATUREIA, savory, satury
Sauce pans, illustrations, pp.155,159,73,231
Sauces, ancient compared with modern, pp.22,24,26,27; —— for roasts, ℞267-70; —— for partridge, ℞499; —— crane and duck, ℞215; —— for fowl, ℞218-28
Sauces. Bread Sauce, ℞274; Brine, ℞284; —— for broiled fish, Alexandrine style, ℞437-39; —— for boiled fish, ℞433-6,454; —— for broiled mullet, ℞442-3; —— boiled meats, ℞271-3; —— for roasts, ℞267, seq.; English ——, ℞267; —— for broiled murenas, ℞448-51; Dill ——, ℞283; Herb —— for fried fish, ℞432; —— for Horned fish, ℞441; —— for lacertus, ℞455-7; —— perch, ℞446; —— redsnapper, ℞447; —— dory, ℞461-2; —— for suckling pig, ℞379; —— young tunny, ℞444-5,459; —— for tooth-fish, ℞460-1,486; —— shellfish, ℞397; —— for venison, ℞339,349; —— for wild sheep or lamb, ℞350; White ——, ℞276,277; Wine —— for fish, ℞464; Tasty —— for conger, ℞441; —— for tidbits, ℞276-82; —— for sea-scorpion, ℞463; —— for eel, ℞440,466-7
Saucisse, ℞41
Sauerbraten-Einlage, ℞11
Sausage, p.172, ℞41,45,60-65,139,165
Savonarola, Michaele, p.273
Scalding poultry, ℞233
Scallops, ℞46
SCANDIUS, chervil
SCARUS, a certain sea-fish esteemed as a delicacy, a parrot-fish
SCHOLA APITIANA, Apiciana, Nos.21,22,23, facsimile, p.206
Schuch, C. Th. editor, Apiciana, Nos.16-17, p.34,25,270seq.
Science confirming ancient methods, p.32
SCILLA, SCYLLA, SQUILLA, a shell-fish, a sea-onion, ℞43,485
SCORPIO, a sea-scorpion, ℞463,475
SCRIBLITA, SCRIBILITA, pastry, some kind of pancake, extra hot. Plautus and Martial, hence Scriblitarius, cake baker, cf.Coquus
SCRUPULUM, SCRI—, aweight, which see
Sealing vessels to prevent air from entering, ℞23,25
Sea Barb, ℞482-3; —— Bass, ℞158,447; —— Eel, ℞484; —— food, p.343; —— stew, Baian style, ℞432; —— mullet, ℞157; —— nettles, ℞162; —— perch, ℞447; —— pike, ℞158; —— urchin, ℞413-4; —— scorpion, ℞475
Sea-scorpion with turnips, ℞475
Sea water, ℞8
Seasoning, seeflavoring
Secrecy in recipes, pp.29,30
Seeds, Summary of, p.236
SEL, seeSIL
SEMINIBUS, DE, p.236
Seneca, Roman philosopher, pp.3,11,15
SEPIA, cuttle-fish, ℞406-9
SERPYLLUM, wild thyme
Service berry, ℞ 159—— pan with decorated handle, illustration, p.73—— dish for eggs, p.93
SESAMUM, sesame herb or corn
SESELIS, SEL, SIL, hartwort, kind of cumin
SETANIA, a kind of medlar, also a certain onion or bulb
SEXTARIUS, ameasure, which see, ℞1
Sforza Ms. ApicianaXIII
Shellfish, ℞397,412
Shell-shaped Dessert Dish, p.125
Shircliffe, Arnold, Dedication, p.273
Shore Dinner, ℞46
Sicardus Ms. ApicianaXIV
Signerre Rothomag., editor, pp.258, seq., also seeTacuinus
Signerre, Colophon, p.260
SIL, seeSESELIS
SILIGO, winter wheat, very hard wheat
SILIQUA, shell, pod, husk
SILPHIUM, SYLPHIUM, same asLASERPITIUM, which see, ℞32
SILURUS, supposed to be the river fish sly silurus, or sheat-fish, also called the horn-pout, or catfish, ℞426
SIMILA, —AGO, fine wheat flour
SINAPIS, mustard
“Singe,” ℞55
SION, —UM, plant growing in the marshes or on meadows, water-parsnip
SISYMBRIUM, water cress
SITULA, hot water kettle
Skate, ℞403-4
Slang in ancient text, p.19
Slaughter, cruel methods of, ℞259,260
Slaves grinding flour, illustration, p.60
Sloe, seePRUNUM
Smelts, ℞138-39
SMYRNION, —UM, a kind of herb, common Alexander
Snails, ℞323-5
Soda, use of —— to keep vegetables green, ℞66
Soft cabbage, ℞103-6
SOLEA, flat fish, the sole, ℞154,487; SOLEARUM PATINA,ibid.
SORBITIO, from SORBEO, supping up, sipping, drinking, drought; any liquid food that may be sipped, a drink, a potion, a broth, a sherbet, Fr. SORBET
Sorrel, ℞26
Sour Dock, ℞26
Soups, ℞178, seq.
Sow’s womb, matrix, udder, belly, ℞59,172,251-8
Soyer, Alexis, chef,35
Sparrow, seePASSER
Spätzli, ℞247
Spelt, ℞58-9
Spengler, O., writer, p.17
SPICA, a “spike,” ear of corn, top of plants, the plant spikenard, SPICA NARDI
Spiced Fruit, ℞177
Spices, Summary of, pp.234-5; spicing, ancient and modern, ℞15,276-77,385, seq.
Spiny lobster, ℞54,485
Spoiling, to prevent food from—see BookI, and Preserving, to prevent birds from spoiling, ℞229-30,233
SPONDYLIUM, —ION, a kind of plant, cow-parsnip, or all-heal. Also called SPHONDYLIUM and FONDULUM. It is quite evident that this term is very easily confused with the foregoing, a mistake, which was made by Humelbergius and upheld by Lister and others. For comparison see ℞46,115-21,183,309,431
SPONDYLUS, the muscular part of an oyster or other shellfish, scallop, for instance; also a species of bivalves, perhaps the scallop, ℞46
SPONGIOLA, rose gall, also the roots of asparagus, clottered and grown close together
SPONGIOLUS, fungus growing in the meadows, a mushroom, cf.SPONDYLIUMand notes pertaining thereto
Sprats, ℞138-9
Sprouts, cabbage ——, ℞89-92
Squab, ℞218-27, cf.Pipio
Squash, ℞73-80
Squill, ℞485
Squirrel, ℞396
Stag, ℞339-45
Starch, in forcemeats, sausage, etc., ℞50
Starr, Frederick, seeintroduction
STATERAE, steelyards for measuring
Sternajolo, writer, Apiciana, No.28, p.273
Stewed Lacertus, ℞152; —— meats, p.285, ℞356, seq.
Stewpots, illustrated, pp.183,209,223,235
String beans and chick-peas, ℞209
STRUTHIO, ostrich, ℞210-11
Studemund, W., writer, p.19
Stuffed pumpkin fritters, ℞176; —— chicken or pig, ℞199; —— boned kid or lamb, ℞360
STURNUS, a starling, stare; Platina condemns its meat as unfit, likewise that of the blackbird (cf.MERULA); he pronounces their flesh to be “devilish.” “STURNI, QUOS VULGO DIABOLICAM CARNEM HABERE DICIMUS.” Yet three-hundred years later, French authorities recommend this sort of food. Viger, La Nouvelle Maison Rustique, Paris, 1798, Vol. iii, p. 613, tells how to catch and fatten STURNI. “After a month [of forced feeding] they will be niceand fat and good to eat and to sell; there are persons who live of this trade.” He praises the crow similarly
These instances are cited not only as a commentary upon the taste of the Southern people and their habits which have endured to this day but also to illustrate the singular genius of Platina. Also the following notes toSTYRIOtend to show how far advanced was Platina in the matter of food as compared with the masters of the 18th century in France
STYRIO, STIRIO, STURIO, ℞145, sturgeon; probably the same fish as known to the ancients as ACIPENSER or STURIO. (A. SIVE S. OBLONGO TEREDEQUE—Stephanus à Schonevelde, in Ichthyologia, Hamburg, 1624). There can be no doubt that the sturgeon or sterlet is meant by this term, for Platina calls the eggs of the fish “caviare.” “OVA STIRIONIS CONDITUM QUOD CAUARE UOCANT.” Eloquently he describes his struggle with the changing language. The efforts of this conscientious man, Platina, to get at the bottom of things no matter how trivial they may appear, are highly praiseworthy
He writes “DE STIRIONE. TRAHI PER TENEBRAS NŪC MIHI VIDEOR, QUANDO HORŪ, DE QUIBUS, DEINCEPS DICTURUS SUM, PISCIŪ, NULLUS CERTUS UEL NOMINIS, UEL NATURAE EXISTAT AUTOR. NEGLIGENTIAE MAIORUM & INSCITIAE ID MAGIS, QUÀM MIHI ASCRIBENDUM EST. VTAR EGO NOUIS NOMINIBUS NE DELICATORUM GULAE PER ME DICANT STETISSE, QUO MINUS INTEGRA UTERENTUR UOLUPTATE.”
As for the rest, Platina cooks the sturgeon precisely in our own modern way: namely in water, white wine and vinegar. And: “SALEM INDERE MEMENTO!—don’t forget the salt!”
Compare him with France 350 years later. As for caviare, A. Beauvilliers, in his L’Art du cuisinier, Paris, 1814, treats this “ragoût” as something entirely new; yet Beauvilliers was the leading restaurateur of his time and a very capable cook, save Carême, the best. Beauvilliers has no use for caviare which he calls “Kavia.” Says he: “LES RUSSES EN FONT UN GRAND CAS ET L’ACHETENT FORT CHER [The Russians make a big thing of this and buy it very dearly] CE RAGOUT, SELON MOI, NE CONVIENT QU’ AUX RUSSES—this stew, according to my notion, suits only the Russians or those who have traveled thereabouts.”
Shakespeare, in speaking about “Caviare to the General” apparently was more up-to-date in culinary matters than this Parisian authority. A search of the eight volumes (Vol. I, 1803) of the famous Almanach des Gourmands by Grimod de la Reynière, Paris, 1803, seq., fails to reveal a trace of caviare
A German cook, a hundred years after Platina, Marx Rumpolt in “Ein new Kochbuch, Franckfort am Mayn, bey Johan Feyrabendt, 1587” on verso of folio XCVII, No. 9, gives an exact description of caviare and its mode of preparation. He calls it ROGEN VOM HAUSEN. The HAUSEN is the real large sturgeon, the Russian Beluga from which the best caviare is obtained. Rumpolt, whose book is the finest and most thorough of its kind in the middle ages, and a great work in every respect, remarks that caviare is good eating, especially for Hungarian gentlemen
“... SO ISSET MAN JN ROH / IST EIN GUT ESSEN / SONDERLICH FÜR EINEN VNGERISCHEN HERRN.”
SUCCIDIA a side of bacon or salt pork
SUCCUM, SUCUM, ℞172,200
Suckling Pig, seePORCELLUS
Sugar and pork, ℞151; use of —— in ancient Rome, seeSACCARUM
Suidas, writer, p.11
SUMEN, ℞257; —— PLENUM, ℞258
Sumptuary laws, p.25, ℞166
Sumptuous dishes, ℞285
Sweet dishes, home-made, ℞294-6
Sweet MINUTAL, ℞168
SYRINGIATUS, ℞360
T
TABLE, adjustable, illustration, p.138; —— round,id., p.122
Tacuinus, editor-printer, p.258; quoted in recipes8seq.; Facs. of Title Page, 1503, p.262; Facs. of opening chapter, p.232
TAMNIS, —US, TAMINIUS, wild grape
TANACETUM, tansy
Taranto, Tarentum, city, ℞165; —ian sausage, ℞140; —— Minutal, ℞165; see alsoLONGANO
Taricho, Tarichea, town, ℞427, seq.
Taro, dasheen, ℞74,154,172,200,244,322; seeCOLOCASIA
Tarpeius, a Roman, ℞363
TEGULA, tile for a roof, also a pan, a plate of marble or of copper; Ger. TIEGEL
Tempting Dish of Peas, A ——, ℞192
TERENTINA, ℞338
Tertullian, writer, p.3
TESTA, —U, —UM, an earthen pot with a lid, a casserole
TESTICULA CAPONUM, ℞166
TESTUDO, TESTA, turtle, tortoise. Platina praises the sea-turtle as good eating
TETRAPES, —US, four-footed animals; title of BookVIII
TETRAPHARMACUM, a course of four dishes, or a dish consisting of four meats. In modern language, a “Mixed Grill,” a “Fritto Misto,” a “Shore-Dinner”
THALASSA, the sea; title of BookIX, treating of fish
Theban ounce, ℞3
THERMOPOLIUM, a tavern, specializing in hot drinks
THERMOSPODIUM, a hot-plate, a hot dish carrier, a BAIN-MARIS, illustrations, pp.72,90
THINCA, a fish, moonfish (?) “OLIM MENAM APPELLATAM CREDIDERIM”—Platina
Thudichum, Dr., writer, p.18
THUS, TUS, frankincense, or the juice producing incense, Rosemary (?); also the herb ground-pine, CHAMAEPITYS, ℞60
Thrush, p.265, ℞497
THYMBRIA, savory; seeSISYMBRIUM,SATUREIAandCUNILA; also seeTHYMUS
THYMUS, thyme. Platina describes THYMUS and THYMBRIA with such a love and beauty that we cannot help but bestow upon him the laurels worn by the more well-known poets who became justly famous for extolling the fragrance of less useful plants such as roses and violets
THYNNUS, tunny-fish, ℞426,457-8
Tidbits, p.285, ℞261, seq.; —— of lamb or kid, ℞355
TISANA, seePTISANA, ℞172-3,200-1
Title pages, Venice, 1503, p.262; Lyons, p.263; Zürich, p.265; London, p.267
Toasting, ℞129
Tooth-fish, ℞157
Torinus, Albanus, editor of the Apicius and Platina editions of 1541, text, p.14—— quoted, ℞1,2,8, seq., assailed by Lister, seeL.—— facsimile of Title page 1541, p.220
TORPEDO, —IN, —INE, ℞403-4
TORTA, cake, tart; —— ALBA, cheese cake
Toulouse garnish, compared, ℞378
TRACTOGALATUS, a dish prepared with milk and paste (noodles, spätzli, etc.); —— PULLUS, a young chicken pie
TRACTOMELITUS, a dish prepared with honey paste; a gingerbread or honeybread composition
TRACTUM, ℞181
Traianus, a Roman, ℞380; also Traganus, Trajanus
Traube, writer, p.19
Trimalchio, fictitious character by Petronius, whose “Banquet” is the only surviving description of a Roman dinner, unfortunately exaggerated because it was a satire on Nero, pp.8,11