[102] RADISHESRAPHANOS
PEPPER THE RADISHES WELL; OR, EQUALLY WELL: GRATE IT WITH PEPPER AND BRINE.
Sch., G.-V.Rafanos;Raphanos agria,—a kind of horseradish; Plinius: h.e.raphanus sylvestris.
[103] SOFT CABBAGEOLUS MOLLE
THE CABBAGE IS COOKED WITH POT HERBS IN SODA WATER; PRESS [the water out] CHOP IT VERY FINE: [now] CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, DRY SATURY WITH DRY ONIONS, ADD STOCK, OIL AND WINE.
[104] ANOTHER MASHED GREEN VEGETABLEALTER OLUS MOLLE[EX APIO]
COOK CELERY IN SODA WATER, SQUEEZE [water out] CHOP FINE. IN THE MORTAR CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, ONION [and mix with] WINE AND STOCK, ADDING SOME OIL.COOK THIS IN THE BOILER [1] AND MIX THE CELERY WITH THIS PREPARATION.
[1]in pultario. Thepultariusis a pot in which cereals were boiled; frompuls—porridge, pap.
[105] ANOTHER MASHED VEGETABLEALITER OLUS MOLLE[EX LACTUCIS]
COOK THE LETTUCE LEAVES WITH ONION IN SODA WATER, SQUEEZE [the water out] CHOP VERY FINE; IN THE MORTAR CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, DRY MINT, ONION; ADD STOCK, OIL AND WINE.
[106] TO PREVENT MASHED VEGETABLES FROM TURNINGOLUS MOLLE NE ARESCAT[1]
IT WILL BE REQUIRED ABOVE ALL TO CLEAN THE VEGETABLES WELL, TO CUT OFF ALL DECAYED PARTS AND TO COVER [the cooked vegetables] WITH WORMWOOD WATER.
[1] Tor.ne ... exarescat, the difference in the meaning is immaterial.
[107] FIELD HERBSHERBÆ RUSTICÆ
FIELD AND FOREST [1] HERBS ARE PREPARED [2] [either raw] WITH STOCK [3] OIL AND VINEGAR [as a salad, [4]] OR AS A COOKED DISH [5] BY ADDING PEPPER, CUMIN AND MASTICH BERRIES.
[1] Tor.ac sylvestres; V. German,Feldsalat.
[2] Tor.parantur; wanting in other editions.
[3]Liquamine, here interpreted as brine.
[4] Tac., Sch.,et al.a manu; Tor.vel manu—because eaten with the hand.
[5] Tor.vel in patina.
[108] NETTLESURTICÆ
THE FEMALE NETTLES, WHEN THE SUN IS IN THE POSITION OF THE ARIES, IS SUPPOSED TO RENDER VALUABLE SERVICES AGAINST AILMENTS OF VARIOUS KINDS [1].
[1] Tac., List., Sch.,et al.adversus ægritudinem.
Barthius:Quam ægritudinem?etc., etc.
Tor.plurifarias!
Reinsenius:ad arcendum morbum, etc., etc.
Hum.scilicet quamcunque hoc est ...etc., etc., etc.
G.-V.si voles.
V. This innocent little superstition about the curative qualities of the female nettle causes the savants to engage in various speculations.
Nettles are occasionally eaten as vegetables on the Continent.
[109] ENDIVES AND LETTUCEINTUBA ET LACTUCÆ
ENDIVES [are dressed] WITH BRINE, A LITTLE OIL AND CHOPPED ONION, INSTEAD OF THE REAL LETTUCE [1] IN WINTER TIME THE ENDIVES ARE TAKEN OUT OF THE PICKLE [2] [and are dressed] WITH HONEY OR VINEGAR.
[1] Hum.pro lactucis uere; Tor.p. l. accipint; G.-V.p. l. vero(separated by period)—all indicating that endives are a substitute for lettuce when this is not available.
[2] Cf. ℞ No.27, also Nos.22and23.
[110] LETTUCE SALAD, FIELD SALADAGRESTES LACTUCÆ[1]
[Dress it] WITH VINEGAR DRESSING AND A LITTLE BRINE STOCK; WHICH HELPS DIGESTION AND IS TAKEN TO COUNTERACT INFLATION [2].
[1] Tor.sic; Hum.agri l.; Tac.id.; Sch. and G.-V. haveacrias an adjective to vinegar, the last word in the preceding formula.
[2] List. and Hum. continuing: “And this salad will not hurt you”; but Tor., Sch. and G.-V. use this as a heading for the following formula.
[111] A HARMLESS SALADNE LACTUCÆ LÆDANT
[And in order that the lettuce may not hurt you take (with it or after it) the following preparation] [1] 2 OUNCES OF GINGER, 1 OUNCE OF GREEN RUE, 1 OUNCE OF MEATY DATES, 12 SCRUPLES OF GROUND PEPPER, 1 OUNCE OF GOOD HONEY, AND 8 OUNCES OF EITHER ÆTHIOPIAN OR SYRIAN CUMIN. MAKE AN INFUSION OF THIS IN VINEGAR, THE CUMIN CRUSHED, AND STRAIN. OF THIS LIQUOR USE A SMALL SPOONFUL MIX IT WITH STOCK AND A LITTLE VINEGAR: YOU MAY TAKE A SMALL SPOONFUL AFTER THE MEAL [2].
[1] Tac. and Tor.Ne lactucæ lædant[take it]cum zingiberis uncijs duabus, etc. Hum., List., G.-V.cumini unc. II.They and Sch. read thecumof Tac. and Tor. forcumini, overlooking the fact that the recipe later calls for Aethopian orSyrian cumin as well. This shifts the weights of the various ingredients from the one to the other, completely upsetting the sense of the formula.
[2] Goll. ignores this passage completely.
V. This is another of the medical formulæ that have suffered much by experimentation and interpretation through the ages. It seems to be an aromatic vinegar for a salad dressing, and, as such, a very interesting article, reminding of our present tarragon, etc., vinegars. To be used judiciously in salads.
Again, as might be expected, the medicinal character of the formula inspires the medieval doctors to profound meditation and lively debate.
Cf. ℞ Nos.34and108.
[112] CARDOONSCARDUI
CARDOONS [are eaten with a dressing of] BRINY BROTH, OIL, AND CHOPPED [hard] EGGS.
V. Precisely as we do today: French dressing and hard boiled eggs. We do not forget pepper, of course. Perhaps the ancient “briny broth” contained enough of this and of other ingredients, such as fine condiments and spices to make the dressing perfect.
[113] ANOTHER [Dressing for] CARDOONSALITER CARDUOS
RUE, MINT, CORIANDER, FENNEL—ALL GREEN—FINELY CRUSHED; ADD PEPPER, LOVAGE, AND [1] BRINE AND OIL [2].
[1] Tac. and Tor.vel.; List., Sch., G.-V.mel—honey—which would spoil this finevinaigretteor coldfines herbes dressing. However, even nowadays, sugar is quite frequently added to salad dressings.
[2] Gollmer claims that this dressing is served with cooked cardoons, the recipe for which follows below. This is wanting in Tor.
[114] BOILED CARDOONSALITER CARDUOS ELIXOS
[Are served with] PEPPER, CUMIN, BROTH AND OIL.
[115] (COW-) PARSNIPS [?]SPONDYLI VEL FONDULI[1]
COW-PARSNIPS ARE FRIED [and eaten] WITH A SIMPLE WINE SAUCE.
[1] Tac.Spondili uel fonduliandSphon ...; Tor. as above; Hum.Spongioliuel funguli; List.,id.; Sch.Sfondili uel funguli; G.-V.Sphondyli uel funduli.
Cf. note to Nos.46,121,122.
[116] ANOTHER WAYALITER
BOIL THE PARSNIPS IN SALT WATER [and season them] WITH PURE OIL [1], CHOPPED GREEN CORIANDER AND WHOLE PEPPER.
[1] Tac.Oleo mero; Other editors:Oleo, mero. V. The comma is misplaced.
[117] ANOTHER WAYALITER
PREPARE THE BOILED PARSNIPS WITH THE FOLLOWING SAUCE: CELERY SEED, RUE, HONEY, GROUND PEPPER, MIXED WITH RAISIN WINE, STOCK AND A LITTLE OIL; BIND THIS WITH ROUX [bring to a boiling point, immerse parsnips] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[118] ANOTHER WAY [Purée of Parsnips] [1]ALITER
MASH THE PARSNIPS, [add] CUMIN, RUE, STOCK, A LITTLE CONDENSED WINE, OIL, GREEN CORIANDER [and] LEEKS AND SERVE; GOES WELL WITH SALT PORK [2].
[1] Again faulty punctuation obscures the text. Carefully compare the following: Tac. and Tor.Spondylos teres, cuminum, etc. Hum., List. and G.-V.S. teres cuminum, i.e. crush the cumin. Sch.S. tores—dry, parch!
[2]Inferes pro salso—serve with salt pork or bacon, or, instead of—Salsum—salt pork. Dann. Well seasoned with salt! Sch.infares pro salsa. For further confirmation ofsalsumcf. ℞ Nos.148-152.
[119] ANOTHER WAYALITER
BOIL THE PARSNIPS [sufficiently, if] HARD [1] [then] PUT THEM IN A SAUCE PAN AND STEW WITH OIL, STOCK, PEPPER, RAISIN WINE, STRAIN [2] AND BIND WITH ROUX.
[1] Tor.præduratos; List.prædurabis. How can they be hardened? It may perhaps stand for “parboil.” We agree with Tor. that the hard ones (præduratos) must be cooked soft.
[2] Tor. and Tac.Colabis—strain; List. and G.-V.Colorabis—color. No necessity for coloring the gravy, but straining after the binding with roux is important which proves Tor. correct again. Cf. note 1 to ℞ No.73and note 2 to ℞ No.55.
[120] ANOTHER WAYALITER[1]
FINISH [marinate] THE PARSNIPS IN OIL AND BROTH, OR FRY THEM IN OIL, SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND PEPPER, AND SERVE.
[1] Ex G.-V. wanting in Tor. and List. Found in Sch. also. V. Procedure quite in accordance with modern practice. We envelope the p. in flour or frying batter.
[121] ANOTHER WAYALITER[1]
BRUISE THE BOILED PARSNIPS [scallops, muscular part of shellfish] ELIMINATE THE HARD STRINGS; ADD BOILED SPELT AND CHOPPED HARD EGGS, STOCK AND PEPPER. MAKE CROQUETTES OR SAUSAGE FROM THIS, ADDING PIGNOLIA NUT AND PEPPER, WRAP IN CAUL [or fill in casings] FRY AND SERVE THEM AS AN ENTRÉE DISH IN A WINE SAUCE.
[1] V. This formula is virtually a repetition of ℞ No.46, all the more bewildering because of the divergence of the term (Cf. ℞ No.115), which stands for “scallops” or the muscular part of any bivalve, at least in the above formula.
The Græco-Latin word for cow-parsnip isspondylium,sphondylium,spondylion. It is almost certain that the preceding parsnips formulæ are in the right place here. They are in direct line with the other vegetables here treated—the shellfish—spondylus—would be out of place in this chapter, BookIII, The Gardener. All the recipes, with the exception of the above, fit a vegetable like parsnips. Even Lister’s and Humelberg’s interpretation of the term, who readspongioli—mushrooms—could be questioned under this heading, BookIII.
It is barely possible that this entire series of formulæ,Spondyli uel fonduli(℞ Nos.115-121) does belong to BookIIamong the scallophysitia, though we are little inclined to accept this theory.
Cf. ℞ No.122which appears to be a confirmation of the view expressed above.
[122] CARROTS AND PARSNIPSCAROTÆ ET PASTINACÆ
CARROTS OR PARSNIPS ARE FRIED [and served] WITH A WINE SAUCE.
V. Exactly like ℞ No.115, which may be a confirmation thatspondylistands for cow-parsnips.
[123] ANOTHER WAYALITER
THE CARROTS [are cooked] SALTED [and served] WITH PURE OIL AND VINEGAR.
V. As a salad. “Italian Salad” consists of a variety of such cooked vegetables, nicely dressed with oil and vinegar, or with mayonnaise. Cf. ℞ No.102.
[124] ANOTHER WAYALITER
THE CARROTS [are] BOILED [and] SLICED, STEWED WITH CUMIN AND A LITTLE OIL AND ARE SERVED. AT THE SAME TIME [1] [here is your opportunity] MAKE A CUMIN SAUCE [from the carrot juice] FOR THOSE WHO HAVE THE COLIC [2].
[1] Ex Tor. wanting elsewhere.
[2] Tac.coliorum; Tor.cuminatum colicorum; List.c. coloratum—colored; G.-V.c. colorium.
END OF BOOK III
EXPLICIT APICII CEPURICA DE OLERIBUS LIBER TERTIUS[Tac.]
THERMOSPODIUM OF PLAIN DESIGN
Water and food heater for everyday purposes. Charcoal fuel. Foods were kept on top in pans, dishes or pots, and were thus carried from the kitchen into the dining room. They were also used for food service in hotel rooms, supplied from adjacent tavern kitchens, as some hotels had no food preparation facilities. This handy apparatus was designed for general utility, as it also served as a portable stove on chilly days in living rooms that were not heated from the central heating plant found in larger houses. Ntl. Mus. Naples, 73882; Field M. 24179.
ROMAN WINE PRESS
Reconstruction in Naples, in the new section of the National Museum.
With recesses for the whole eggs with shells still on
A DISH FOR THE SERVICE OF EGGS
Hildesheim Treasure
Lib. IV. Pandecter[1]
[125] BOILED DINNERSALACATTABIA[2]
PEPPER, FRESH MINT, CELERY, DRY PENNYROYAL, CHEESE [3], PIGNOLIA NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, YOLKS OF EGG, FRESH WATER, SOAKED BREAD AND THE LIQUID PRESSED OUT, COW’S CHEESE AND CUCUMBERS ARE ARRANGED IN A DISH, ALTERNATELY, WITH THE NUTS; [also add] FINELY CHOPPED CAPERS [4], CHICKEN LIVERS [5]; COVER COMPLETELY WITH [a lukewarm, congealing] BROTH, PLACE ON ICE [and when congealed unmould and] SERVE UP [6].
[1] Read:Pandectes—embracing the whole science.
[2] Read:Salacaccabia—fromsalsaandcaccabus—salt meat boiled in the pot. Sch.Sala cottabia; G.-V.cattabia.
[3] Sch.casiaminstead ofcaseum.
[4] Sch.Copadiis porcinis—small bits of pork; List.cepas aridas puto—“shallots, I believe”; Lan.capparis; Vat., G.-V.id.
[5] Dann. Chicken meat.
[6] This dish if pork were added (cf. Sch. in note 4 above) would resemble our modern “headcheese”; the presence of cheese in this formula and in our word “headcheese” is perhaps not accidental; the cheese has been eliminated in the course of time from dishes of this sort while the name has remained with us. “Cheese” also appears in the German equivalent for custard—Eierkäse.
[126] APICIAN JELLYSALACATTABIA APICIANA
PUT IN THE MORTAR CELERY SEED, DRY PENNYROYAL, DRY MINT, GINGER, FRESH CORIANDER, SEEDLESS RAISINS, HONEY, VINEGAR, OIL AND WINE; CRUSH IT TOGETHER [in order to make a dressing of it]. [Now] PLACE 3 PIECES OF PICENTIAN BREAD IN A MOULD, INTERLINED WITH PIECES OF [cooked] CHICKEN, [cooked] SWEETBREADS OF CALF OR LAMB, CHEESE [1], PIGNOLIA NUTS, CUCUMBERS [pickles] FINELY CHOPPED DRY ONIONS [shallots] COVERING THE WHOLE WITH [jellified] BROTH. BURY THE MOULD IN SNOW UP TO THE RIM; [unmould] SPRINKLE [with the above dressing] AND SERVE [2].
[1] List.caseum Vestinum—a certain cheese from the Adriatic coast.
[2] The nature of the first passage of this formula indicates a dressing for a cold dish. The dish was probably unmoulded when firm, and the jelly covered with this dressing, though the original does not state this procedure. In that case it would resemble a highly complicated chicken salad, such as we make today—mayonnaise de volaille en aspic, for instance. We recall the artistic molds for puddings and other dishes which the ancients had which were nicely suited for dishes such as the above.
The Picentian bread—made of spelt—was a celebrated product of the bakeries of Picentia, a town of lower Italy, near the Tuscan sea, according to Pliny.
Cf. ℞ No.141.
[127] OTHER SALACACCABIAALITER
HOLLOW OUT AN ALEXANDRINE LOAF OF BREAD, SOAK THE CRUMBS WITH POSCA [a mixture of water, wine, vinegar or lemon juice] AND MAKE A PASTE OF IT. PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, HONEY [1] MINT, GARLIC, FRESH CORIANDER, SALTED COW’S CHEESE, WATER AND OIL. WINE [2] POURED OVER BEFORE SERVING [3].
[1] Wanting in Tor.
[2] G.-V.insuper nivem—chilled on snow (like the preceding formula). Tac.insuper vinum; Sch.id.
[3] A panada as is found in every old cookery book. Today it remains as a dressing for roast fowl, etc. Quoting from “A Collection of Receipts in Cookery, Physick and Surgery,” London, 1724:
“Panada for a Sick or Weak Stomach. Put the crumbs of a Penny White-Loaf grated into a Quart of cold Water, set both on the Fire together with a blade of Mace: When ’tis boil’d smooth, take it off the fire and put in a bit of Lemon-peel, the juice of a Lemon, a glass of Sack [Spanish Wine] and Sugar to your Taste. This is very Nourishing and never offends the Stomach. Some season with butter and Sugar, adding Currants which on some occasions are proper; but the first is the most grateful and innocent.”
Mrs. Glasse, a quarter century later, in her famous book [The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, London, 1747, 1st ed.] omits the wine, but Mrs. Mason, at about the same time, insists on having it with panada.
The imaginary or real relation between the sciences of cookery and medicine is illustrated here.
DISHES OF FISH, VEGETABLES, FRUITS AND SO FORTHPATINÆ PISCIUM, HOLERUM & POMORUM
[128] EVERYDAY DISHPATINA QUOTIDIANA[1]
MAKE A PASTE OF STEWED BRAINS [calf’s, pig’s, etc.] SEASON WITH PEPPER, CUMIN, LASER, BROTH, THICKENED WINE, MILK AND EGGS [2] POACH IT OVER A WEAK FIRE OR IN A HOT WATER [BATH].
[1] Tac.quottidiana; List.cottidiana.
[2] List.ovis—with eggs, which is correct. Tor.holus; Lan.olus—herbs, cabbage.
Cf. ℞ No.142.
[129] ANOTHER DISH, WHICH CAN BE TURNED OVER [A Nut Custard]ALITER PATINA VERSATILIS
THE DISH, CALLED TURN-OVER, IS THUS MADE [1] CRUSH VERY FINE WALNUTS AND HAZELNUTS [2] TOAST THEM AND CRUSH WITH HONEY, MIX IN PEPPER, BROTH, MILK AND EGGS AND A LITTLE OIL [3].
[1] Tor.
[2] List.torres eas—toast them (wanting in Tor.) which is the thing to do. Cf. No.143, practically a repetition of this. Cf.301.
[3] This laconic formula indicates a custard poached, like in the preceding, ina mould, which, when cooled off, is unmoulded in the usual way. Thispatina versatilisis in fact the moderncrême renversée, with nuts.
It is characteristic of Apicius for incompleteness and want of precise directions, without which the experiment in the hands of an inexperienced operator would result in failure.
[130] ANOTHERALITER PATINA
ANOTHER DISH IS MADE OF THE [1] STRUNKS OF LETTUCE CRUSHED WITH PEPPER, BROTH, THICKENED WINE, [add] WATER AND OIL, AND COOK THIS; BIND WITH EGGS, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [2].
[1] Tor.
[2] Very much like a modern soup, purée of lettuce.
[131] VEGETABLE AND BRAIN PUDDINGPATINA FRISILIS[1]
TAKE VEGETABLES, CLEAN AND WASH, SHRED [2] AND COOK THEM [3] COOL THEM OFF AND DRAIN THEM. TAKE 4 [calf’s] BRAINS, REMOVE [the skin and] STRINGS AND COOK THEM [4] IN THE MORTAR PUT 6 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND CRUSH FINE; THEN ADD THE BRAINS, RUB AGAIN AND MEANWHILE ADD THE VEGETABLES, RUBBING ALL THE WHILE, AND MAKE A FINE PASTE OF IT. THEREUPON BREAK AND ADD 8 EGGS. NOW ADD A GLASSFUL [5] OF BROTH, A GLASSFUL OF WINE, A GLASSFUL OF RAISIN WINE, TASTE THIS PREPARATION. OIL THE BAKING DISH THOROUGHLY [put the mixture in the dish] AND PLACE IT IN THE HOT PLATE, (THAT IS ABOVE THE HOT ASHES) [6] AND WHEN IT IS DONE [unmould it] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [7].
[1] List.frictilis; Vat. Ms.fusilis; G.-V.id.; Lan.frisilis.
Patina frisilisremains unexplained. None of the various readings can be satisfactorily rendered. If the vegetables had remained whole the dish might be compared to achartreuse, those delightful creations by the Carthusian monks who compelled by the strictest rules of vegetarianism evolved a number of fine vegetable dishes. On the other hand, the poached mixture of eggs and brains is akin to ourfarcesandquenelles; but in modern cookery we have nothing just like thispatina frisilis.
[2] Wanting in List.
[3] and [4] Wanting in Tor.
[5]Cyathum.
[6] Sentence in () ex Tor.
[7] This and some of the following recipes are remarkable for their preciseness and completeness.
[132] ANOTHER COLD ASPARAGUS [and Figpecker] DISHALITER PATINA DE ASPARAGIS FRIGIDA
COLD ASPARAGUS PIE IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [1] TAKE WELL CLEANED [cooked] ASPARAGUS, CRUSH IT IN THE MORTAR, DILUTE WITH WATER AND PRESENTLY STRAIN IT THROUGH THE COLANDER. NOW TRIM, PREPARE [i.e. cook or roast] FIGPECKERS [2] [and hold them in readiness]. 3 [3] SCRUPLES OF PEPPER ARE CRUSHED IN THE MORTAR, ADD BROTH, A GLASS OF WINE, PUT THIS IN A SAUCEPAN WITH 3 OUNCES OF OIL, HEAT THOROUGHLY. MEANWHILE OIL YOUR PIE MOULD, AND WITH 6 EGGS, FLAVORED WITH ŒNOGARUM, AND THE ASPARAGUS PREPARATION AS DESCRIBED ABOVE; THICKEN THE MIXTURE ON THE HOT ASHES. THEREUPON ARRANGE THE FIGPECKERS IN THE MOULD, COVER THEM WITH THIS PURÉE, BAKE THE DISH. [When cold, unmould it] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] Tor.
[2] Lan. and Tac.ficedulas curtas tres; Tor.curtasf.—three figpeckers cut fine. G.-V.F. curatas. Teres in ...(etc.)—PreparedF.
[3] List. six; G.-V.id.
[133] ANOTHER ASPARAGUS CUSTARDALIA PATINA DE ASPARAGIS
ASPARAGUS PIE IS MADE LIKE THIS [1] PUT IN THE MORTAR ASPARAGUS TIPS [2] CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, SAVORY AND ONIONS; CRUSH, DILUTE WITH WINE, BROTH AND OIL. PUT THIS IN A WELL-GREASED PAN, AND, IF YOU LIKE, ADD WHILE ON THE FIRE SOME BEATEN EGGS TO IT TO THICKEN IT, COOK [without boiling the eggs] AND SPRINKLE WITH VERY FINE PEPPER.
[1] Tor.
[2] Reference to wine wanting in Tor. We add that the asparagus should be cooked before crushing.
[134] A DISH OF FIELD VEGETABLESPATINA EX RUSTICIS[1]
BY FOLLOWING THE ABOVE INSTRUCTIONS YOU MAY MAKE [2] A PIE OF FIELD VEGETABLES, OR OF THYME [3] OR OF GREEN PEPPERS [4] OR OF CUCUMBERS OR OF SMALL TENDER SPROUTS [5] SAME AS ABOVE, OR, IF YOU LIKE, MAKE ONE UNDERLAID WITH BONELESS PIECES OF FISH OR OF CHICKEN [combined with any of the above vegetables] [6].
[1] Tor.Patina ex oleribus agrestibus.
[2] Tor. wanting in other texts.
[3] Sch., G.-V.tamnis—wild wine; List.cymis cuminis; Lan., Tac.tinis; Vat. Ms.tannis. Thyme is hardly likely to be the chief ingredient of such a dish; the chances are it was used for flavoring and that the above enumerated vegetables were combined in one dish.
[4] List., G.-V., Goll.—mustard; Dann. green mustard. Tor.sive pipere viridi—green peppers, which we accept as correct, gastronomically at least.
[5] Goll., Dann. cabbage, the originals havecoliculis—small tender sprouts on the order of Brussels sprouts or broccoli, all belonging to the cabbage family.
[6]Pulpa—boneless pieces of meat, also fruit purée;pulpamentum—dainty bits of meat.
[135] ELDERBERRY CUSTARD OR PIEPATINA DE SAMBUCO[1]
A DISH OF ELDERBERRIES, EITHER HOT OR COLD, IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [2] TAKE ELDERBERRIES [3] WASH THEM; COOK IN WATER, SKIM AND STRAIN. PREPARE A DISH IN WHICH TO COOK THE CUSTARD [4] CRUSH 6 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER WITH A LITTLE BROTH; ADD THIS TO THE ELDERBERRY PULP WITH ANOTHER GLASS OF BROTH, A GLASS OF WINE, A GLASS OF RAISIN WINE AND AS MUCH AS 4 OUNCES OF OIL. PUT THE DISH IN THE HOT BATH AND STIR THE CONTENTS. AS SOON AS IT IS GETTING WARM, QUICKLY BREAK 6 EGGS AND WHIPPING THEM, INCORPORATE THEM, IN ORDER TO THICKEN THE FLUID. WHEN THICK ENOUGH SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE UP.
[1] G.-V.Sabuco.
[2] Tor. wanting in other texts.
[3] Hum.semen de sambuco—E. seed.
[4] List. Place the berries in a dish; to their juice add pepper, (etc.).
[136] ROSE PIE, ROSE CUSTARD OR PUDDINGPATINA DE ROSIS
TAKE ROSES FRESH FROM THE FLOWER BED, STRIP OFF THE LEAVES, REMOVE THE WHITE [from the petals and] PUT THEM IN THE MORTAR; POUR OVER SOME BROTH [and] RUB FINE. ADD A GLASS OF BROTH AND STRAIN THE JUICE THROUGH THE COLANDER. [This done] TAKE 4 [cooked calf’s] BRAINS, SKIN THEM AND REMOVE THE NERVES; CRUSH 8 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER MOISTENED WITH THE JUICE AND RUB [with the brains]; THEREUPON BREAK 8 EGGS, ADD 1 [1] GLASS OF WINE, 1 GLASS OF RAISIN WINE AND A LITTLE OIL. MEANWHILE GREASE A PAN, PLACE IT ON THE HOT ASHES [or in the hot bath] IN WHICH POUR THE ABOVE DESCRIBED MATERIAL; WHEN THE MIXTURE IS COOKED IN THEBAIN MARIS[2] SPRINKLE IT WITH PULVERIZED PEPPER AND SERVE [3].
[1] List., G.-V. 1½ glass.
[2] Hot water bath.
[3] Tor. continues ℞ No.135without interruption or caption, and describes the above recipe. He reads:De thoris accipies rosas, but List. insists thatde thorisbe readde rosis; Lan., Tac.de toris; V.de thorismay be read “fresh from the flower bed.”
Cf. ℞ Nos.167and171in which case the “rose” may stand for rosy apple, or “Roman Beauty” apple. “Rose apple” also is a small pimento, size of a plum.
[137] PUMPKIN PIEPATINA DE CUCURBITIS[1]
AND PUMPKIN PIE IS MADE THUS [2] STEWED AND MASHED PUMPKIN IS PLACED IN THE PAN [or pie dish] SEASONED WITH A LITTLE CUMIN ESSENCE. ADD A LITTLE OIL; HEAT [bake] AND SERVE [3].
[1] Dann. Cucumber Dish.
[2] Tor. Wanting in other texts.
[3] Modern English recipes for stewed pumpkin resemble this Apician precept, but America has made a really palatable dish from pumpkin by the addition of eggs, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger—spices which the insipid pumpkin needs. The ancient original may have omitted the eggs because Apicius probably expected his formula to be carried out in accordance with the preceding formulæ. Perhaps this is proven by the fact that Tor. continues the Rose Pie recipe withet cucurbita patina sic fiet.
[138] SPRATS OR SMELTS AU VIN BLANCPATINA DE APUA[1]
CLEAN THE SMELTS [or other small fish, filets of sole, etc. of white meat] MARINATE [i.e. impregnate with] IN OIL, PLACE IN A SHALLOW PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH [2] AND WINE. BUNCH [3] [fresh] RUE AND MARJORAM AND COOK WITH THE FISH. WHEN DONE REMOVE THE HERBS, SEASON THE FISH WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [4].
[1] Ex List. and G.-V. wanting in Tor.
[2]Liquamen, which in this case corresponds tocourt bouillon, a broth prepared from the trimmings of the fish, herbs, and wine, well-seasoned and reduced.
[3] Our very ownbouquet garni, a bunch of various aromatic herbs, inserted during coction and retired before serving.
[4] Excellent formula for fish in white wine, resembling our ways of making this fine dish.
This again illustrates the laconic style of the ancient author. He omitted to say that the fish, when cooked, was placed on the service platter and that the juices remaining in the sauce pan were tied with one or two egg yolks, diluted with cream, or wine, orcourt bouillon, strained and poured over the fish at the moment of serving. This is perhaps the best method of preparing fish with white meat of a fine texture. Pink or darker fish do not lend themselves to this method of preparation.
[139] SMELT PIE, OR, SPRAT CUSTARDPATINA DE ABUA SIVE APUA[1]
BONELESS PIECES OF ANCHOVIES OR [other small] FISH, EITHER ROAST [fried] BOILED, CHOP VERY FINE. FILL A CASSEROLE GENEROUSLY WITH THE SAME [season with] CRUSHED PEPPER AND A LITTLE RUE, ADD SUFFICIENT BROTH AND SOME OIL, AND MIX IN, ALSO ADD ENOUGH RAW EGGS SO THAT THE WHOLE FORMS ONE SOLID MASS. NOW CAREFULLY ADD SOME SEA-NETTLES BUT TAKE PAIN THAT THEY ARE NOT MIXED WITH THE EGGS. NOW PUT THE DISH INTO THE STEAM SO THAT IT MAY CONGEAL [but avoid boiling] [2]. WHEN DONE SPRINKLE WITH GROUND PEPPER AND CARRY INTO THE DINING ROOM. NOBODY WILL BE ABLE TO TELL WHAT HE IS ENJOYING [3].
[1] Tac., Tor.sic. List., G.-V.p. de apua sine apua—a dish of anchovies (or smelts) without anchovies. Tor. formula bears the titlepatina de apua, and hisarticle opens with the following sentence:patin de abua sive apua sic facies. He is therefore quite emphatic that the dish is to be made with theabuaorapua(an anchovy) and not withoutapua, as List. has it. Lan. calls the dish: P.de apabadiade, not identified.
[2] Tor.impones ad uaporem ut cum ouis meare possint—warning, get along with the eggs, i.e. beware of boiling them for they will curdle, and the experiment is hopelessly lost. List. however, readsmeare possintthus:bullire p.—boil (!) It is quite plain that Tor. has the correct formula.
[3]et ex esu nemo agnoscet quid manducet.Dann. renders this sentence thus: “Nobody can value this dish unless he has partaken of it himself.” He is too lenient. We would rather translate it literally as we did above, or say broadly, “And nobody will be any the wiser.” List. dwells at length upon this sentence; his erudite commentary upon thecena dubia, the doubtful meal, will be found under the heading ofcenain our vocabulary. List. pp. 126-7. List. undoubtedly made the mistake of readingsineforsive. He therefore omitted theapuafrom his formula. The above boastful sentence may have induced him to do so.
The above is a fish forcemeat, now seldom used as an integral dish, but still popular as a dressing for fish or as quenelles. The modern fish forcemeat is usually made of raw fish, cream and eggs, with the necessary seasoning. The material is poached or cooked much in the same manner as prescribed by the ancient recipe.
[140] A RICH ENTRÉE OF FISH, POULTRY AND SAUSAGE IN CREAMPATINA EX LACTE
SOAK [pignolia] NUTS, DRY THEM, AND ALSO HAVE FRESH SEA-URCHINS [1] READY. TAKE A DEEP DISH [casserole] IN WHICH ARRANGE THE FOLLOWING THINGS [in layers]: MEDIUM-SIZED MALLOWS AND BEETS, MATURE LEEKS, CELERY, STEWED TENDER GREEN CABBAGE, AND OTHER BOILED GREEN VEGETABLES [2], A DISJOINTED [3] CHICKEN STEWED IN ITS OWN GRAVY, COOKED [calf’s or pig’s] BRAINS, LUCANIAN SAUSAGE, HARD BOILED EGGS CUT INTO HALVES, BIG TARENTINIAN SAUSAGE [4] SLICED AND BROILED IN THE ASHES, CHICKEN GIBLETS OR PIECES OF CHICKEN MEAT. BITS OF FRIED FISH, SEA NETTLES, PIECES OF [stewed] OYSTERS AND FRESH CHEESE ARE ALTERNATELY PUT TOGETHER; SPRINKLE IN BETWEEN THE NUTS AND WHOLE PEPPER, AND THE JUICE AS IS COOKED FROM PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED AND SILPHIUM. THIS ESSENCE, WHEN DONE, MIX WITH MILK TO WHICH RAW EGGS HAVE BEEN ADDED [pourthis over the pieces of food in the dish] SO THAT THE WHOLE IS THOROUGHLY COMBINED, STIFFEN IT [in the hot water bath] AND WHEN DONE [garnish with] FRESH MUSSELS [sea-urchins, poached and chopped fine] SPRINKLE PEPPER OVER AND SERVE.
[1] Sea-urchins, wanting in Tor.
[2] Sentence wanting in G.-V.
[3]Pullum raptum, in most texts; G.-V.p. carptum—plucked. Of course! Shouldraptumbe translated literally? A most atrocious way of killing fowl, to be sure, but anyone familiar with the habits of the ancients, particularly with those of the less educated element, should not wonder at this most bestial fashion, which was supposed to improve the flavor of the meat, a fashion which, as a matter of fact still survives in the Orient, particularly in China.
[4] Vat. Ms.Tarentino farsos; Tor. cooks the sausage in the ashes—coctos in cinere; List.in cinere legendum jecinora—chicken giblets. Lister’s explanation of the Tarentinian sausage is found in the vocabulary,v. Longano.
[141] APICIAN DISHPATINA APICIANA[1]
THE APICIAN DISH IS MADE THUS: TAKE SMALL PIECES OF COOKED SOW’S BELLY [with the paps on it] PIECES OF FISH, PIECES OF CHICKEN, THE BREASTS OF FIGPECKERS OR OF THRUSHES [slightly] COOKED, [and] WHICHEVER IS BEST. MINCE ALL THIS VERY CAREFULLY, PARTICULARLY THE FIGPECKERS [the meat of which is very tender]. DISSOLVE IN OIL STRICTLY FRESH EGGS; CRUSH PEPPER AND LOVAGE, POUR OVER SOME BROTH AND RAISIN WINE, PUT IT IN A SAUCEPAN TO HEAT AND BIND WITH ROUX. AFTER YOU HAVE CUT ALL IN REGULAR PIECES, LET IT COME TO THE BOILING POINT. WHEN DONE, RETIRE [from the fire] WITH ITS JUICE OF WHICH YOU PUT SOME IN ANOTHER DEEP PAN WITH WHOLE PEPPER AND PIGNOLIA NUTS. SPREAD [the ragout] OUT IN SINGLE LAYERS WITH THIN PANCAKES IN BETWEEN; PUT IN AS MANY PANCAKES AND LAYERS OF MEAT AS IS REQUIRED TO FILL THE DISH; PUT A FINAL COVER OF PANCAKE ON TOP AND SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AFTER THOSE EGGS HAVE BEEN ADDED [which serve] TO TIE THE DISH. NOW PUT THIS [mould or dish] IN A BOILER [steamer, hot water bath, allow to congeal] AND DISH IT OUT [by unmoulding it]. AN EXPENSIVE SILVER PLATTER WOULD ENHANCE THE APPEARANCE OF THIS DISH MATERIALLY.
[1] Cf. ℞ No.126.
[142] AN EVERY-DAY DISHPATINA QUOTIDIANA[1]
PIECES OF COOKED SOW’S UDDER, PIECES OF COOKED FISH, CHICKEN MEAT AND SIMILAR BITS, MINCE UNIFORMLY, SEASON WELL AND CAREFULLY [2]. TAKE A METAL DISH [for a mould]. BREAK EGGS [in another bowl] AND BEAT THEM. IN A MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE AND ORIGANY [3], WHICH CRUSH; MOISTEN [this] WITH BROTH, WINE, RAISIN WINE AND A LITTLE OIL; EMPTY IT INTO THE BOWL [with the beaten eggs, mix] AND HEAT IT [in the hot water bath]. THEREUPON WHEN [this is] THICKENED MIX IT WITH THE PIECES OF MEAT. NOW PREPARE [alternately] LAYERS OF STEW AND PANCAKES, INTERSPERSED WITH OIL [in the metal mould reserved for this purpose] UNTIL FULL, COVER WITH ONE REAL GOOD PANCAKE [4], CUT INTO IT A VENT HOLE FOR CHIMNEY ON THE SURFACE [bake in hot water bath and when done] TURN OUT UPSIDE DOWN INTO ANOTHER DISH. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] List.cottidiana; G.-V.cotidiana. Everyday Dish, in contrast to the foregoing Apician dish which is more sumptuous on account of the figpeckers or thrushes. In the originals these two formulæ are rolled into one. Cf. ℞ No.128.
[2] G.-V.Hæc omnia concides; Tor.condies; List.condies lege concideswhich we dispute.Condies—season, flavor—is more correct in this place;concides—mince—is a repetition of what has been said already.
[3] Origany wanting in G.-V.
[4] List.superficie versas in discum insuper in superficium pones; Sch.a superficie versas indusium super focum pones; G.-V.in discum; Tor.unum uerò laganum fistula percuties à superficie uersas in discum in superficiem præterea pones—which we have translated literally above, as we believe Tor. to be correct in this important matter of having a chimney on top of such a pie.
[143] NUT CUSTARD TURN-OVER [1]PATINA VERSATILIS VICE DULCIS
PIGNOLIA NUTS, CHOPPED OR BROKEN NUTS [other varieties] ARE CLEANED AND ROASTED AND CRUSHED WITH HONEY. MIX IN [beat well] PEPPER, BROTH, MILK, EGGS, A LITTLE HONEY [2] AND OIL. [Thicken slowly on fire without boiling, fill in moulds, taking care that the nuts do not sink to the bottom, bake in hot water bath, when cold unmould].
[1] Practically the only recipe in Apicius fairly resembling a modern “dessert.” This is practically a repetition of ℞ No.129, which see.
[2] Tor.modico melle; List.m. mero—pure wine and also pure honey, i.e. thick honey for sweetening. Wine would be out of place here. This is an excellent example of nut custard, if the “pepper” and the “broth” (liquamen), of the original, in other words spices and brine, or salt, be used very sparingly. For “pepper” nutmeg or allspice may be substituted, as is used today in such preparations. The oil seems superfluous, but it is taking the place of our butter. This very incomplete formula is characteristic because of the absence of weights and measures and other vital information as to the manipulation of the materials. None but an experienced practitioner could make use of this formula in its original state.
Goll. adds toasted raisins, for which there is no authority.
The text now proceeds without interruption to the next formula.
[144] TYROTARICA [1]PATELLA THIROTARICA[2]
TAKE ANY KIND OF SALT FISH [3] COOK [fry or broil it] IN OIL, TAKE THE BONES OUT, SHRED IT [and add] PIECES OF COOKED BRAINS, PIECES OF [other, fresh (?)] FISH, MINCED CHICKEN LIVERS [4] AND [cover with] HOT SOFT [i.e. liquefied] CHEESE. HEAT ALL THIS IN A DISH; [meanwhile] GRIND PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, SEEDS OF RUE WITH WINE, HONEY WINE AND OIL; COOK ALL ON A SLOW FIRE; BIND [this sauce] WITH RAW EGGS; ARRANGE [the fish, etc.]. PROPERLY [incorporate with the sauce] SPRINKLE WITH CRUSHED CUMIN AND SERVE [5].
[1] G.-V., List., Vat. Ms.Thyrotarnica; cf. notes to ℞ Nos.427,428.
[2] Tor.
[3] Tor. Wanting in other texts.
[4] List., G.-V. here add hard boiled eggs, which is permissible, gastronomically.
[5] Modern fishau gratinis made in a similar way. Instead of this wine sauce a spiced cream sauce and grated cheese are mixed with the bits of cooked fish, which is then baked in the dish.
Brains, chicken, etc., too, are servedau gratin, but a combination of the three in one dish is no longer practiced. However, the Italian method of baking fish, etc.,au gratin à l’Italiennecontains even more herbs and wine reduction than the above formula.
[145] SALT FISH BALLS IN WINE SAUCE [1]PATELLA ARIDA[2]
DRY PIECES OF SALT TURSIO [3] ARE BONED, CLEANED [soaked in water, cooked] SHREDDED FINE AND SEASONED WITH GROUND PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, PARSLEY, CORIANDER, CUMIN, RUE SEEDS AND DRY MINT. MAKE FISH BALLS OUT OF THIS MATERIAL AND POACH THE SAME IN WINE, BROTH AND OIL; AND WHEN COOKED, ARRANGE THEM IN A DISH. THEN MAKE A SAUCE [utilizing the broth, thecourt bouillonin which the balls were cooked] SEASON WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE, SATURY, ONIONS AND WINE AND VINEGAR, ALSO ADD BROTH AND OIL AS NEEDED, BIND WITH ROUX [4] [pour over the balls] SPRINKLE WITH THYME AND GROUND PEPPER [5].
[1] Reminding us of the Norwegianfiske bollerin wine sauce, a popular commercial article found canned in delicatessen stores.
[2] List.patella sicca—dry, perhaps because made of dried fish.
[3] List.isicia de Tursione; G.-V.Thursione. Probably a common sturgeon, or porpoise, or dolphin. List. describes it as “a kind of salt fish from the Black Sea; a malicious fish with a mouth similar to a rabbit”; Dann. thinks it is a sturgeon, but in Goll. it appears as tunny. The ancients called the sturgeonacipenser; but this name was gradually changed intostyrio,stirioandsturio, which is similar totursio(cf.styrioin the vocabulary). The fish in question therefore may have been sturgeon for which the Black Sea is famous.
[4] List., G.-V.ovis obligabis—tie with eggs—certainly preferable to the Tor. version.
[5] Tor. thyme.
The above is an excellent way of making fish balls, it being taken for granted, of course, that the salt fish be thoroughly soaked and cooked in milk before shaping into balls. The many spices should be used very moderately, some to be omitted entirely. We read between the lines of the old formula that theTursiohad a long journey from Pontus to Rome; fish however dry acquires a notorious flavor upon such journeys which must be offset by herbs and spices.
It is quite possible that the ancients made aréductionof the herbs and spices mentioned in this formula; in fact, the presence of vinegar leads us to believe this, in which case this formula would be nothing but a very modern sauce. The herbs and spices in aréductionare crushed and boiled down in vinegar and wine, and strained off, they leave their finest flavor in the sauce.
[146] VEGETABLE DINNERPATELLA EX OLISATRO[1]
[Any kind of vegetables or herbs] BLANCHED OFF IN WATERWITH [a little] SODA; SQUEEZE [out the water] ARRANGE IN A SAUCEPAN. GRIND PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, SATURY, ONION WITH WINE, BROTH, VINEGAR AND OIL; ADD [this] TO THE VEGETABLES, STEW [all until nearly done] AND TIE WITH ROUX. SPRINKLE WITH THYME, FINELY GROUND PEPPER AND SERVE. ANY KIND OF VEGETABLE [2] MAY BE PREPARED IN THE ABOVE MANNER, IF YOU WISH.
[1] Wanting in Tac. and Tor. G.-V.patellam ex holisatro.
[2] It is worth noting that Tor. and Tac. omit this recipe entirely and that Tor. concludes the preceding formula with the last sentence of the above formula, except for the difference in one word. Tor.et de quacunque libra[List.et al.herba]si volueris facies ut demonstratum est suprà. This might mean that it is optional (in the preceding formula) to shape the fish into one pound loaves instead of the small fish balls, which is often done in the case of forcemeats, as in veal, beef, ham loaves, or fish pie.
We are inclined to accept the reading of Torinus, for the above way of preparing “any kind of vegetables or herbs” is somewhat farfetched. Furthermore, the vegetable dish would more properly belong in BookIII.
Just another example of where readings by various editors are different because of the interpretations of one word. In this case one group readslibrawhereas the other readsherba.
[147] A DISH OF SARDINESPATELLA DE APUA[1]
SARDINE LOAF (OR OMELETTE) IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [2] CLEAN THE SARDINES [of skin and bones]; BREAK [and beat] EGGS AND MIX WITH [half of the] FISH [3]; ADD TO THIS SOME STOCK, WINE AND OIL, AND FINISH [the composition] BY HEATING IT. WHEN DONE TO A POINT, ADD [the remaining part of the] SARDINES TO IT, LET IT STAND A WHILE [over a slow fire to congeal] CAREFULLY TURN OVER [dish it up] MASK WITH A WARM [4] WINE SAUCE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] G.-V.Patina de apua fricta—same asaphya, fried fresh small fish of the kind of anchovies, sardines, sprats.
In experimenting with this formula we would advise to use salt and oil judiciously if any at all. We have no knowledge of the ancientapua frictaother than our making of modern sardines which is to fry them in oil as quickly as possible after the fish has left the water, for its meat is very delicate. For an omelette, our modern sardines, including kippered smelts, sprotten, and similar smoked and processed fish, contain sufficient salt and fat to season the eggs of an omelette.
[2] Tor. Sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] Tor.cum aqua; List., G.-V.cum apua. Perhaps a typographical error in Tor. A little water is used to dilute the eggs of an omelette, but Apicius already prescribes sufficient liquids (stock or brine, wine) for that purpose.
[4] Tor.et in calore œnogarum perfundes; List., G.-V.ut coloret—to keep the omelette in the pan long enough to give it “color.” We prefer the Torinus version because an omelette should have no or very little color from the fire (the eggs thus browned are indigestible) and because hotœnogarum(wine-fish sauce, not in List.) is accompanying this dish, to give additional savour and a finishing touch.
[148] FINE RAGOUT OF BRAINS AND BACONPATINA EX LARIDIS[1]ET CEREBELLIS
THE DISH OF BACON AND BRAINS IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [2] STRAIN [or chop fine] HARD BOILED EGGS [3] WITH PARBOILED BRAINS [calf’s or pig’s] THE SKIN AND NERVES OF WHICH HAVE BEEN REMOVED; ALSO COOK CHICKEN GIBLETS, ALL IN PROPORTION TO THE FISH [4] PUT THIS AFORESAID MIXTURE IN A SAUCEPAN, PLACE THE COOKED BACON IN THE CENTER, GRIND PEPPER AND LOVAGE AND TO SWEETEN ADD A DASH OF MEAD, HEAT, WHEN HOT STIR BRISKLY WITH A RUE WHIP AND BIND WITH ROUX.
[1] G.-V.lagitis; Tor.laridisandlargitis; Vat. Ms.lagatis; List.pro lagitis ... legendum Lacertis. Thelacertus, according to List., is a much esteemed salt fish; not identified. List.et al.seem to be mistaken in their reading oflacertisforlaridis. This work stands for salt pork, fromlaridumandlardum(French,lard; the Englishlardis applied to the rendered fat of pork in general). Cf. notes to ℞ No.41.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3]oua dura; Sch.o. dua—two eggs.
[4] This formula would be intelligible and even gastronomically correct were it not for this word “fish.” However, we cannot accept Lister’s readinglacertis. We prefer the reading,laridis, bacon. The French have another term for this—petits salés. Both this and the Torinus term are in the plural. They are simply small strips of bacon to which Torinus again refers in the above formula,salsum, coctum in media pones—put the bacon, when done, in the center (of the dish). Regardingsalsumalso see note to ℞ No.41.
The above dish resemblesragoût fin en coquille, a popular Continental dish, although its principal ingredients are sweetbreads instead of brains.
[149] BROILED MULLETPATINA EX PISCIBUS MULLIS[1]
A DISH OF MULLET CONSISTS OF [2] SCALED SALT MULLET PLACED IN A CLEAN PAN WITH ENOUGH OIL [3] AS IS NECESSARY FOR COOKING; WHEN DONE ADD [a dash of honey-] WINE OR RAISIN WINE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] List., G.-V.mullorum loco salsi—salt mullet.
[2] Tor. wanting in other texts.
[3] List.liquamen—broth, brine, which would be worse than carrying owls to Athens. As a matter of fact, the mullet if it be what List. says,loco salsi—salted on the spot, i.e. as caught, near the sea shore, requires soaking to extract the salt.
[150] A DISH OF ANY KIND OF SALT FISHPATINA EX PISCIBUS QUIBUSLIBET[1]
ANOTHER FISH DISH IS THUS MADE [2] FRY ANY KIND OF CURED [3] FISH, CAREFULLY TREATED [soaked and cleaned] PLACE IN A PAN, COVER WITH SUFFICIENT OIL, LAY [strips of] COOKED SALT [4] [pork or bacon—petits salés] OVER THE CENTER, KEEP IT HOT, WHEN REAL HOT, ADD A DASH OF HONEY WINE TO THE GRAVY AND STIR IT UP [5].
[1] Ex Tor.; G.-V.P. piscium loco salsi.
[2] Tor.; sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] Tor.duratos—hard—no sense here, probably a misprint of the d. List.curatos—carefully treated, “cured,” processed.
[4]Salsum coctum, cf. notes to ℞ No.148; Goll., Dann.—sprinkle [the fish] with salt.... Like Lister’s error in the preceding formula it would be a great blunder to add salt to a cured fish already saturated with salt to the utmost. Cf. also note 2 to ℞ Nos.41,148.
[5] Virtually a repetition of ℞ No.149, except for the addition of the pork.
[151] ANOTHER FISH DISH, WITH ONIONSALIA PISCIUM PATINA
ANOTHER FISH DISH MAKE AS FOLLOWS [1] CLEAN ANY KIND OF FISH AND PLACE IT PROPERLY IN A SAUCEPAN WITH SHREDDED DRY ASCALONIAN ONIONS [shallots] OR WITH ANY OTHER KIND OF ONIONS, THE FISH ON TOP. ADD STOCK AND OIL AND COOK. WHEN DONE, PUT BROILED BACON IN THE CENTER, GIVE IT A DASH OF VINEGAR,SPRINKLE WITH [finely chopped] SAVORY AND GARNISH WITH [the] ONIONS.
[1] Tor., sentence wanting in other texts.
[152] A LUCRETIAN DISHPATINA LUCRETIANA[1]
CLEAN YOUNG ONIONS, REJECTING THE GREEN TOPS, AND PLACE [2] THEM IN A SAUCEPAN WITH A LITTLE BROTH, SOME OIL AND WATER, AND, TO BE COOKED [with the onions] PLACE SALT PORK [3] IN THE MIDST [of the scallions]. WHEN NEARLY DONE, ADD A SPOON OF HONEY [4] A LITTLE VINEGAR AND REDUCED MUST, TASTE IT, IF INSIPID ADD MORE BRINE [broth] IF TOO SALTY, ADD MORE HONEY, AND SPRINKLE WITH SAVORY [5].
[1] Dann. Named for Lucretius Epicuræus, a contemporary of Cicero. List.ab authore cui in usu fuit sic appellata.
[2] G.-V.concides. Not necessary.
[3]salsum crudum—salt pork, i.e. not smoked or cured bacon. Dann. raw salt; Goll. salt. Impossible, of course! Cf. notes to ℞ Nos.41,147,149.
[4] To glaze the pork, no doubt; reminding us of our own use of sugar to glaze ham or bacon, and of the molasses added to pork (and beans).
[5] G.-V.coronam bubulam. In experimenting with this formula omit salt completely. Instead of honey we have also added maple syrup once. To make this a perfect luncheon dish a starch is wanting; we have therefore added sliced raw potatoes and cooked with the rest, to make it a balanced meal, by way of improving upon Lucretius. Since the ancients had no potatoes we have, on a different occasion, created another version by added sliced dasheens (colocasia, cf. ℞ Nos.74,216,244,322). It is surprising that the ancients who used thecolocasiumextensively did not combine it with the above dish.
[153] STEWED LACERTUS FISHPATINA DE LACERTIS[1]
CLEAN AND WASH [soak] THE FISH [2] [cook and flake it] BREAK AND BEAT EGGS, MIX THEM WITH THE FISH, ADD BROTH, WINE AND OIL. PLACE THIS ON THE FIRE, WHEN COOKED [scrambled] ADD SIMPLE FISH WINE SAUCE [3] TO IT, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [4].
[1] Ex List. wanting in Tor. G.-V.P. de lagitis; cf. note to ℞ No.148.
[2] Remembering that List. readslagitisforlacertis, this formula appears to be an antique “Scrambled Eggs and Bacon.” Cf. notes to ℞ Nos.42,148-150.
[3]Oenogarum, cf. ℞ No.147, the Sardine Omelette.
[4] To cook the eggs as described above would be disastrous. The fish, if such was used, was probably first poached in the broth, wine and oil, and when done, removed from the pan. Thefond, or remaining juice or gravy, was subsequentlytied with the egg yolks, and this sauce was strained over the fish dressed on the service platter, theœnogarumsparingly sprinkled over the finished dish. This would closely resemble our modernau vin blancfish dishes; theœnogarumtaking the place of our meat glacé.
Another interpretation of this vexatious formula is that if fish was used, the cooked fish was incorporated with the raw beaten eggs which were then scrambled in the pan. In that event this formula resembles closely the sardine omelette.
[154] A FISH STEWPATINA ZOMORE[1]
THE ZOMORE FISH DISH IS MADE AS FOLLOWS [2] TAKE RAW GANONAS [3] AND OTHER [fish] WHICHEVER YOU LIKE, PLACE THEM IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING OIL, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, A BUNCH [4] OF LEEKS AND [green] CORIANDER; WHILE THIS COOKS, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND A BUNCH OF ORIGANY WHICH CRUSH BY ITSELF AND DILUTE WITH THE JUICE [5] OF THE FISH. NOW DISSOLVE [break and beat egg yolks for aliaison] PREPARE AND TASTE THE DISH, BINDING [the sauce with the yolks] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] List.Zomoteganite—“a dish of fish boiled in their own liquor”; G.-V.zomoteganon; Lan.zomoreganonas; Vat. Ms.zomonam Ganas.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3]ganonas crudas—an unidentified fish.
[4] “Bouquet garni.”
[5]ius de suo sibi—old Plautian latinity. Cf. H. C. Coote, cit.Apiciana; the proof of the antiquity and the genuineness of Apicius.
[155] SOLE IN WHITE WINEPATINA EX SOLEIS[1]
A DISH OF SOLE IS THUS MADE [2] BEAT THE SOLE [3] PREPARE [4] AND PLACE THEM IN A [shallow] SAUCE PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH AND WINE, AND POACH THEM THUS; NOW CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY AND ADD OF THE FISH JUICE; THEN BIND THE SAUCE WITH RAW EGGS [yolks] TO MAKE A GOOD CREAMY SAUCE OF IT; STRAIN THIS OVER THE SOLE, HEAT ALL ON A SLOW FIRE [to fill it with live heat] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [5].
[1] G.-V.P. solearum.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] Beat, to make tender, to be able to remove the skin.
[4] Tor.curatos—trim, skin, remove entrails, wash.
[5] One of the best of Apician accomplishments. Exactly like our modernsole au vin blanc, one of the most aristocratic of dishes. Cf. ℞ No.487, Excerpta,XIX.