[38] MORTARIA [1]MORTARIA
MORTARIA ARE PREPARATIONS MADE IN THE MORTAR. PLACE IN THE MORTAR [Tor.] MINT, RUE, CORIANDER AND FENNEL, ALL FRESH AND GREEN AND CRUSH THEM FINE. LOVAGE, PEPPER, HONEY AND BROTH [2] AND VINEGAR [3] TO BE ADDED WHEN THE WORK IS DONE.
Ex Tor. first sentence wanting in other texts.
[1] List. and G.-V.moretaria, frommoretum.
[2] Dann. calls this “Kalte Schale” which as a rule is a drink or a cold refreshing soup, popular on the Continent in hot weather. Not a bad interpretation if instead of the broth the original called for wine or fruit juices.
V.Mortariaare ingredients crushed in the mortar, ready to be used in severalcombinations, similar to the ground fine herbs,remoulade, in French cuisine that may be used for various purposes, principally for cold green sauces.
[3] Wanting in Tor.
[39] CUMIN SAUCE FOR SHELLFISHCUMINATUM IN OSTREA ET CONCHYLIA
[Tor. CUMIN SAUCE (SO CALLED BECAUSE CUMIN IS ITS CHIEF INGREDIENT) FOR OYSTERS AND CLAMS IS MADE OF] PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, MALABAR LEAVES, QUITE SOME CUMIN, HONEY, VINEGAR, AND BROTH.
[40] ANOTHER [CUMIN SAUCE] [1]ALITER
PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, PLENTY OF CUMIN, HONEY, VINEGAR AND BROTH.
[1] wanting in List.
The cumin sauce formulæ are under chap. XV in G.-V., following our No.30.
END OF BOOK I
EXPLICIT APICII EPIMELES LIBER PRIMUS[Tac.]
The perforations form a circular interwoven design
COLANDER FOR STRAINING WINE
The intricate design of the perforation denotes that this strainer was used for straining wine. Various other strainers of simpler design, with and without handles, were used in the kitchen and bakery. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 77602; Field M., 24307.
Two slaves push the mill
SLAVES OPERATING A HAND-MILL
Reconstruction in Naples, in the new section of the National Museum.
FRUIT OR DESSERT BOWL
Round bowl, fluted symmetrically, with three claw feet, resting on molded bases. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 74000; Field M., 24028.
Lib. II. Sarcoptes[1]
[1] Tor.Artoptes; Tac.Artoptus. This may have been derived fromartopta—a vessel in which bread and pudding are baked. However, Sarcoptes is the better word, which is Greek, meaning “chopped meats.”
[2] Tac.Ambolatum, and so in Tor. p. 15,De Ambolato. Cap. IIII. cf. our note following No.58.
[41] MINCED DISHESISICIA
THERE ARE MANY KINDS OF MINCED DISHES [1] SEAFOOD MINCES [2] ARE MADE OF SEA-ONION, OR SEA CRAB-FISH, LOBSTER, CUTTLE-FISH, INK FISH, SPINY LOBSTER, SCALLOPS AND OYSTERS [3]. THE FORCEMEAT IS SEASONED WITH LOVAGE [4], PEPPER, CUMIN AND LASER ROOT.
[1] Tor. Sentence wanting in other texts. V. Forcemeats, minced meats, sausage. Tor.Hysitia, fromIsicia. This term is derived frominsicium, fromsalsicium, fromsalsum insicium, cut salt meat; old Frenchsalcisse,saulcisse, modernFrenchsaucisse, meaning sausage. This is a confirmation of the meaning of the wordsalsum—meaning primarily salt meat, bacon in particular. It has survived in modern French terminology insalésmore speciallypetits salés—small rashers of bacon.Salsumhas caused much confusion in some later formulæ. Cf. notes to Nos.148,150,152.
[2] V. fish forcemeats, fish balls, fish cakes and similar preparations.
[3] Scallops and oysters wanting in List. and G.-V.
[4] Wanting in List.
[42] CUTTLE-FISH CROQUETTESISICIA DE LOLLIGINE[1]
THE MEAT IS SEPARATED FROM BONES, SKIN [and refuse] CHOPPED FINE AND POUNDED IN THE MORTAR. SHAPE THE FORCEMEAT INTO NEAT CROQUETTES [2] AND COOK THEM IN LIQUAMEN [3].
THEY ARE DISPLAYED NICELY ON A LARGE DISH.
V. This formula plainly calls for fish balls braised or stewed in broth. Ordinarily we would boil the fish first and then separate the meat from the bones, shred or chop it fine, bind with cream sauce, flour and eggs; some add potatoes as a binder, and fry.
[1] G.-V.lolligine; Tor.loligine, which is correctly spelled.
[2] Tac. and Tor.in pulmento tundes. G.-V.fulmentowhich is wrong.Pulmentum, abbreviated forpulpamentum, frompulpa. It means a fleshy piece of fish or meat, a tid-bit.
[3] The original saysin liquamine fricatur—fry in l., which is impossible in the sense of the word, frying. Either “frying” here stands for cooking, stewing, braising, poaching, or else the so mysteriousliquamenmust here mean deep fat. Most likely these fish forcemeat balls were fried in olive oil. Cf. ℞ No.46.
[43] LOBSTER OR CRABMEAT CROQUETTESISICIA DE SCILLIS VEL DE CAMMARIS AMPLIS[1]
THE SHELLS OF THE LOBSTERS OR CRABS [which are cooked] ARE BROKEN, THE MEAT EXTRACTED FROM THE HEAD AND POUNDED IN THE MORTAR WITH PEPPER AND THE BEST KIND OF BROTH. THIS PULP [is shaped into neat little cakes which are fried] AND SERVED UP NICELY [2].
[1]Scillaorsquilla, squill, sea-onion, also a crab,cammarus amplus, large lobster, langouste, spiny lobster.
[2] The original omits the mode of cooking the fish. A case where it is taken for granted that the shellfish is boiled in water alive. The broth (liquamen) is a thick fish sauce in this case, serving as a binder for the meat, conforming to present methods.
Dann. Fill this into sausage casing. There is no authority for this.
[44] LIVER KROMESKISOMENTATA[1]
OMENTATA ARE MADE IN THIS MANNER: [lightly] FRY PORK LIVER, REMOVE SKIN AND SINEWS FIRST [2]. CRUSH PEPPER AND RUE IN A MORTAR WITH [a little] BROTH, THEN ADD THE LIVER, POUND AND MIX. THIS PULP SHAPE INTO SMALL SAUSAGE, WRAP EACH IN CAUL AND LAUREL LEAVES AND HANG THEM UP TO BE SMOKED. WHENEVER YOU WANT AND WHEN READY TO ENJOY THEM TAKE THEM OUT OF THE SMOKE, FRY THEM AGAIN, AND ADD GRAVY [3].
[1] Fromomentum—caul, the membrane enclosing the bowels. Hence “omen.” Minced meats wrapped in caul and fried are kromeskis in kitchen terminology.
[2] First—an after thought so characteristic in culinary literature, proof enough that this formula originated in a kitchen. Theante tamenof the original belongs to this sentence, not to the next, as the editors have it.
[3] Wanting in G.-V. The original continues without interruption to the next, an entirely new formula.
[45] [BRAIN SAUSAGE][ISICIA DE CEREBELLIS] [1]
PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE AND ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND RUB; ADD COOKED BRAINS AND MIX DILIGENTLY SO THAT THERE BE NO LUMPS. INCORPORATE FIVE EGGS AND CONTINUE MIXING WELL TO HAVE A GOOD FORCEMEAT WHICH YOU MAY THIN WITH BROTH. SPREAD THIS OUT IN A METAL PAN, COOK, AND WHEN COOKED [cold] UNMOULD IT ONTO A CLEAN TABLE. CUT INTO HANDY SIZE. [Now prepare a sauce] PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE AND ORIGANY, CRUSH, MIX WITH BROTH PUT INTO A SAUCE PAN, BOIL, THICKEN AND STRAIN. HEAT THE PIECES OF BRAIN PUDDING IN THIS SAUCE THOROUGHLY, DISH THEM UP, SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER, IN A MUSHROOM DISH [2].
[1] The Original has no title for this dish.
[2] List. and G.-V. here start the next formula, but Tor. continues without interruption. Cf. Note 2 to No.46.
[46] A DISH OF SCALLOPSISICIA EX SPONDYLIS[1]
[Lightly] COOK SCALLOPS [or the firm part of oysters] REMOVE THE HARD AND OBJECTIONABLE PARTS, MINCE THE MEAT VERY FINE, MIX THIS WITH COOKED SPELT ANDEGGS, SEASON WITH PEPPER, [shape into croquettes and wrap] IN CAUL, FRY, UNDERLAY A RICH FISH SAUCE AND SERVE AS A DELICIOUS ENTRÉE [2].
[1] Sch.sfondilis; G.-V.sphondylis; List.spongiolis. According to Lister, this is a dish of mushrooms, but he is wrong. He directs to remove sinews when mushrooms haven’t any, but shellfish have. Torinus is correct. Gollmer makes the same mistake, believingspondylito be identical withspongioli. He and Danneil takeelixatafor “choice” when this plainly means “cooked.” If one were not sure of either word, the nature of the subject would leave no room for any doubt. Cf. note 1 to Nos.115-121.
[2] We may find a reason for the combination of these last three distinctly different formulæ into one article in the following explanation. It is possible that these dishes were served together as one course, even on one platter, thus constituting a single dish, as it were. Such a dish would strongly resemble platters of “fritures” and “fritto misto” (mixed fried foods) esteemed in France and Italy. We, too, have “Shore Dinners” and other “Combination Platters” with lobster, crabs, scallops, shrimps, mushrooms, tomatoes—each article prepared separately, but when served together will form an integral part of ONE dish.
The above formulæ, though somewhat incomplete, are good and gastronomically correct. A combination of theseisiciasuch as we here suggest would be entirely feasible and would in fact make a dish of great refinement, taxing the magiric artist’s skill to the utmost. We would class them among theentremets chaudswhich are often used on a buffet table or as hothors d’œuvres.
[47] ANOTHER KIND OF KROMESKIS [1]ALITER ISICIA OMENTATA
FINELY CUT PULP [of pork] IS GROUND WITH THE HEARTS [2] OF WINTER WHEAT AND DILUTED WITH WINE. FLAVOR LIGHTLY WITH PEPPER AND BROTH AND IF YOU LIKE ADD A MODERATE QUANTITY OF [myrtle] BERRIES ALSO CRUSHED, AND AFTER YOU HAVE ADDED CRUSHED NUTS AND PEPPER [3] SHAPE THE FORCEMEAT INTO SMALL ROLLS, WRAP THESE IN CAUL, FRY, AND SERVE WITH WINE GRAVY.
[1] Wanting in Lister.
[2] Fine wheat flour, cream of wheat.
[3] Either pepper corns or allspice.
The original leaves us in doubt as to the kind of meat to be used, if any.
[48] DUMPLINGS OF PHEASANTISICIA PLENA
[Lightly roast choice] FRESH PHEASANTS [cut them into dice and mix these with a] STIFF FORCEMEAT MADE OF THE FAT AND THE TRIMMINGS OF THE PHEASANT, SEASON WITH PEPPER, BROTH AND REDUCED WINE, SHAPE INTO CROQUETTES OR SPOON DUMPLINGS, AND POACH IN HYDROGARUM [water seasoned with garum, or even plain salt water].
[49] DUMPLINGS AND HYDROGARUMHYDROGARATA ISICIA
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND JUST A SUSPICION OF PELLITORY, MOISTEN WITH STOCK AND WELL WATER, ALLOW IT TO DRAW, PLACE IT IN A SAUCE PAN, BOIL IT DOWN, AND STRAIN. POACH YOUR LITTLE DUMPLINGS OF FORCEMEAT IN THIS LIQUOR AND WHEN THEY ARE DONE SERVE IN A DISH FOR ISICIA, TO BE SIPPED AT THE TABLE.
[50] CHICKEN FORCEMEATISICIA DE PULLO
[Raw] CHICKEN MEAT, 1 LB. OF DARNEL [1] MEAL, ONE QUARTER PINT OF STOCK AND ONE HALF OUNCE OF PEPPER.
[1] Tor.lolæ floris; Hum.-List. and G.-V.olei floris—virgin olive oil?—first choice flour? Goll. olive (violet?) flowers; Dann. Olive oil.
The suggestion of oil is plausible because of the lack of fat in chicken meat, but the quantity—1 lb.—is out of question. Moreover, the binder would be lacking. This is found in the Torinus rendering.
Hislolæ florisshould readlolii—fromlolium—darnel rye grass or ray grass which was supposed to have intoxicating qualities, injurious to the eye sight.—Ovid and Plautus. The seeds of this grass were supposed to possess narcotic properties but recent researches have cast doubt upon this theory.
A little butter, fresh cream and eggs are the proper ingredients for chicken forcemeat. Any kind of flour for binding the forcemeat would cheapen the dish. Yet some modern forcemeats (sausage) contain as much as fifty percent of some kind of meal. The most effective is that of the soya bean which is not starchy.
[51] CHICKEN BROTH ANOTHER STYLEALITER DE PULLO
CHICKEN MEAT, 31 PEPPERCORNS CRUSHED, 1 CHOENIX [1] FULL OF THE VERY BEST STOCK, A LIKE AMOUNT OF BOILED MUST AND ELEVEN MEASURES [2] OF WATER. [Putthis in a sauce pan] PLACE IT UPON THE FIRE TO SEETH AND EVAPORATE SLOWLY.
[1] V. 2sextarii; Tor.chœnicem, cenlicem; List.calicem.
[2]chœnices?—left in doubt.
This seems to be a chicken broth, or essence for a sauce or perhaps a medicine. Torinus mentions the chicken meat, the others do not.
The original without interruption continues to describe theisicium simplexwhich has nothing to do with the above.
[52] PLAIN DUMPLING WITH BROTHISICIUM SIMPLEX
TO 1 ACETABULUM [1] OF STOCK [2] ADD 7 OF WATER, A LITTLE GREEN CELERY, A LITTLE SPOONFUL OF GROUND PEPPER, AND BOIL THIS WITH THE SAUSAGE MEAT OR DUMPLINGS. IF YOU INTEND TAKING THIS TO MOVE THE BOWELS THE SEDIMENT SALTS [3] OF HYDROGARUM HAVE TO BE ADDED [4].
[1] A measure, 15 Attic drachms.
[2]liquamen.
[3] Tor.pectines, alias peces hydrogaro conditi; List.sales; G.-V.fæces.
[4] V. The formula is unintelligible, like No.52and others, perhaps just another example of medicinal cookery, dishes not only intended to nourish the body but to cure also certain ills. Authors like Hannah Wolley (The Queen-like Closet, London, 1675) and as late as the middle of the 18th century pride themselves in giving such quasi-Apician formulæ.
[53] [Rank of] DISHESISICIA
[Entrées of] PEACOCK OCCUPY THE FIRST RANK, PROVIDED THEY BE DRESSED IN SUCH MANNER THAT THE HARD AND TOUGH PARTS BE TENDER. THE SECOND PLACE [in the estimation of the Gourmets] HAVE DISHES MADE OF RABBIT [1] THIRD SPINY LOBSTER [2] FOURTH COMES CHICKEN AND FIFTH YOUNG PIG.
[1] List. and G.-V. Pheasant.
[2] Wanting in the above. Dann. Crane fourth.
Isicia, like in the foregoing formula, commences to become a generic term for “dishes.”
[54] POTTED ENTRÉESISICIA AMULATA AB AHENO[1]
GROUND PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, VERY LITTLE SILPHIUM, A PINCH OF GINGER AND A TRIFLE OF HONEY ANDA LITTLE STOCK. [Put on the fire, and when boiling] ADD THE ISICIA [sausage, meat balls and so forth] TO THIS BROTH AND COOK THOROUGHLY. FINALLY THICKEN THE GRAVY WITH ROUX [2] BY SOWING IT IN SLOWLY AND STIRRING FROM THE BOTTOM UP [3].
[1] Tor.multa ab alieno; Brandt[a]mul[a]ta ab aheno; List.amylata—French:liés.Ab aheno—out of the pot.
[2] French, for a mixture of wheat or rice flour with fats or liquids to thicken fluids.Amylum, oramulumwhich hereafter will occur frequently in the original does not cover the ground as well as the French termroux. The quality of the “binder” depends upon the material in hand. Sometimes the fat and flour are parched, sometimes they are used raw. Sometimes the flour is diluted with water and used in that form.
[3] List. and G.-V.sorbendum; Tor.subruendum.
[55] ANOTHER [THICK ENTRÉE GRAVY]ALITER
GRIND PEPPER WHICH HAS BEEN SOAKED OVERNIGHT, ADD SOME MORE STOCK AND WORK IT INTO A SMOOTH PASTE; THEREUPON ADD QUINCE-APPLE CIDER, BOILED DOWN ONE HALF, THAT IS WHICH HAS EVAPORATED IN THE HEAT OF THE SUN TO THE CONSISTENCY OF HONEY. IF THIS IS NOT AT HAND, ADD FIG WINE [1] CONCENTRATE WHICH THE ROMANS CALL “COLOR” [2]. NOW THICKEN THE GRAVY WITH ROUX OR WITH SOAKED RICE FLOUR AND FINISH IT ON A GENTLE FIRE.
[1] Tor.cammarum, which should readcaricarum—wine of Carica figs.
[2] V. the Roman equivalent for “singe,” “monkey,” “Affe,”—(thevulgoFrench is literally translated into and in actual use in other languages) caramel color made of burnt sugar to give gravies a palatable appearance. Cf. No.73.
The reference by the original to “which the Romans call ‘color’” indicates, according to Brandt, that this formula is NOT of ROMAN origin but probably a translation into Latin from a Greek cookery book.
This is an interesting suggestion, and it could be elaborated on to say that the entire Apicius is NOT of Roman origin. But why should the Greeks who in their balmy days were so far in advance of Rome in culinary matters go there for such information?
It is more likely that this reference to Rome comes from the Italian provinces or the colonies, regions which naturally would look to Rome for guidance in such matters.
[56] ANOTHER AMULATUMAMULATUM ALITER
DISJOINT A CHICKEN AND BONE IT. PLACE THE PIECES IN A STEW PAN WITH LEEKS, DILL AND SALT [water or stock]WHEN WELL DONE ADD PEPPER AND CELERY SEED, THICKEN WITH RICE [1] ADD STOCK, A DASH OF RAISIN WINE OR MUST, STIR WELL, SERVE WITH THE ENTRÉES.
[1] G.-V.oryzam; Tor. ditto (and on margin)oridam; Hum.oridiam legendum orindam—a kind of bread. Dann. and Goll. rice flour.
In a general way the ancient formula corresponds exactly to our present chicken fricassée.
[57] SPELT OR FARINA PUDDINGAPOTHERMUM
BOIL SPELT WITH [Tor. PIGNOLIA] NUTS AND PEELED ALMONDS [1] [G.-V. AND] IMMERSED IN [boiling] WATER AND WASHED WITH WHITE CLAY SO THAT THEY APPEAR PERFECTLY WHITE, ADD RAISINS, [flavor with] CONDENSED WINE OR RAISIN WINE AND SERVE IT IN A ROUND DISH WITH CRUSHED [2] [nuts, fruit, bread or cake crumbs] SPRINKLED OVER IT [3].
[1] V. We peel almonds in the same manner; the white clay treatment is new to us.
G.-V. and—which is confusing.
[2] The original:confractum—crushed, but what? G.-V. pepper, for which there is neither authority nor reason. A wine sauce would go well with it or crushed fruit. List. and Goll. Breadcrumbs.
[3] This is a perfectly good pudding—one of the very few desserts in Apicius. With a little sweetening (supplied probably by the condensed wine) and some grated lemon for flavor it is quite acceptable as a dessert.
[58] DE AMBOLATO CAP. IIII
Ex Torinus, not mentioned by the other editors. The sense of this word is not clear. It must be a recipe or a chapter the existence of which was known to Torinus, for he says: “This entire chapter is wanting in our copy.”
[59] A DISH OF SOW’S MATRIXVULVULÆ BOTELLI[1]
ENTRÉES [2] OF SOW’S MATRIX [3] ARE MADE THUS: CRUSH PEPPER AND CUMIN WITH TWO SMALL HEADS OF LEEK, PEELED, ADD TO THIS PULP RUE, BROTH [and the sow’s matrix or fresh pork] CHOP, [or crush in mortar very fine] THEN ADD TO THIS [forcemeat] INCORPORATING WELL PEPPER GRAINS AND [pine] NUTS [4] FILL THE CASING [5] ANDBOIL IN WATER [with] OIL AND BROTH [for seasoning] AND A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND DILL.
[1] G.-V.Vulvulæ Botelli; Sch.Vulvulæ isiciata; Tor.De Vulvulis et botellis. See note No. 3.
[2] V. “Entrées” out of respect for the ancients who used them as such; today we would class such dishes among the “hors d’œuvres chauds.”
[3] V.Vulvula, dim. forvulva, sow’s matrix. Cf.vulvain dictionary. Possible, also possible thatvolvais meant—a meat roll, a croquette.
[4] V. Combinations of chopped nuts and pork still in vogue today; we use the green pistachios.
[5] V. The casings which were filled with this forcemeat may have been the sow’s matrices, also caul. The original is vague on the point.
[60] LITTLE SAUSAGEBOTELLUM[1]
BOTELLUM IS MADE OF [2] HARD BOILED YOLKS OF EGG [3] CHOPPED PIGNOLIA NUTS, ONION AND LEEKS, RAW GROUND PINE [4] FINE PEPPER, STUFF IN CASINGS AND COOK IN BROTH AND WINE [5].
[1] V.Botelli, orbotuli, are sausage of various kind; (French, Boudin, English, Pudding). Originally made of raw blood, they are in fact, miniature blood sausage. The absence of meat in the present formula makes me believe that it is not complete, though hard boiled yolk when properly seasoned and mixed with the right amount of fat, make a tasty forcemeat for sausage.
[2] Tor.Botellum sic fades ex oui; Sch. and G.-V.sex ovi—the number of eggs is immaterial.
[3] Dann. Calf’s Sweetbreads.
[4] Goll.Thus crudum—raw blood.Thusortusis either frankincense or the herb, ground-pine. Dann. Rosemary. Hum.Thus crudum lege jus crudum—jus or broth which would make the forcemeat soft. There is no reason for changing “thus” into “jus!”
[5] G.-V.Adicies liquamen et vinum, et sic coques. Tor. &vino decoquas.
[61] LUCANIAN SAUSAGELUCANICÆ
LUCANIAN SAUSAGE [or meat pudding] ARE MADE SIMILAR TO THE ABOVE: CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, SAVORY, RUE, PARSLEY, CONDIMENT, LAUREL BERRIES AND BROTH; MIX WITH FINELY CHOPPED [fresh Pork] AND POUND WELL WITH BROTH. TO THIS MIXTURE, BEING RICH, ADD WHOLE PEPPER AND NUTS. WHEN FILLING CASINGS CAREFULLYPUSH THE MEAT THROUGH. HANG SAUSAGE UP TO SMOKE.
V. Lister’s interesting remarks about the makers of these sausages are given in the dictionary. Cf.Longano.
[62] SAUSAGEFARCIMINA
POUND EGGS AND BRAINS [eggs raw, brains cooked] PINE NUTS [chopped fine] PEPPER [whole] BROTH AND A LITTLE LASER WITH WHICH FILL THE CASINGS. FIRST PARBOIL THE SAUSAGE THEN FRY THEM AND SERVE.
V. The directions are vague enough, but one may recognize in them our modern brain sausage.
[63] ANOTHER SAUSAGEALITER
WORK COOKED SPELT AND FINELY CHOPPED FRESH PORK TOGETHER, POUND IT WITH PEPPER, BROTH AND PIGNOLIA NUTS. FILL THE CASINGS, PARBOIL AND FRY WITH SALT, SERVE WITH MUSTARD, OR YOU MAY CUT THE SAUSAGE IN SLICES AND SERVE ON A ROUND DISH.
[64] ANOTHER SAUSAGEALITER
WASH SPELT AND COOK IT WITH STOCK. CUT THE FAT OF THE INTESTINES OR BELLY VERY FINE WITH LEEKS. MIX THIS WITH CHOPPED BACON AND FINELY CHOPPED FRESH PORK. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND THREE EGGS AND MIX ALL IN THE MORTAR WITH PIGNOLIA NUTS AND WHOLE PEPPER, ADD BROTH, FILL CASINGS. PARBOIL SAUSAGE, FRY LIGHTLY, OR SERVE THEM BOILED.
Tor. and Tac. Serve with pheasant gravy. In the early editions the following formula which thus ends is wanting.
[65] ROUND SAUSAGECIRCELLOS ISICIATOS
FILL THE CASINGS WITH THE BEST MATERIAL [forcemeat] SHAPE THE SAUSAGE INTO SMALL CIRCLES, SMOKE. WHEN THEY HAVE TAKEN ON (VERMILLION) COLOR FRY THEM LIGHTLY. DRESS NICELY GARNISHED ON A PHEASANT WINE GRAVY, FLAVORED, HOWEVER, WITH CUMIN.
V. In Tor. and in the earliest edition this formula has been contracted with the preceding and made one formula.
END OF BOOK II
EXPLICIT LIBER SECUNDUS APICII ARTOPTUS[Tac.]
ELABORATE THERMOSPODIUM
A heater for the service of hot foods and drinks in the dining room. Hot drinks were mixed and foods were served from apparatus of this kind. The fuel was charcoal. There were public places, specializing in hot drinks, called Thermopolia. This specimen was found at Stabiæ, one of the ill-fated towns destroyed by eruption of Mt. Vesuvius. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 72986; Field M., 24307.
SERVICE PAN
Round, with decorated handle. This and the pan with the Hercules head on handle used in connection with the plain Thermospodium to serve hot foods in the dining room. Hildesheim Treas.
Lib. III. Cepuros
[66] VEGETABLES, POT HERBSDE HOLERIBUS
TO KEEP ALL VEGETABLES GREEN.UT OMNE HOLUS SMARAGDINUM FIAT.
ALL VEGETABLES WILL REMAIN GREEN IF BOILED WITH COOKING SODA [1].
[1]Nitrium.Method still in use today, considered injurious to health if copper vessel is used, but the amount of copper actually absorbed by the vegetable is infinitesimal, imperceptible even by the taste. Copper, to be actually harmful would have to be present in such quantity as to make enjoyment impossible.
[67] VEGETABLE DINNER, EASILY DIGESTEDPULMENTARIUM AD VENTREM[1]
ALL GREEN VEGETABLES ARE SUITED FOR THIS PURPOSE [2] VERY YOUNG [3] BEETS AND WELL MATURED LEEKS ARE PARBOILED; ARRANGE THEM IN A BAKING DISH, GRIND PEPPER AND CUMIN, ADD BROTH AND CONDENSED MUST, OR ANYTHING ELSE TO SWEETEN THEM A LITTLE, HEAT AND FINISH THEM ON A SLOW FIRE, AND SERVE.
[1] V.Ad ventrem, “for the belly,” simple home laxative.
[2] V. This sentence in Torinus only. Possibly a contraction of the foregoing formula, No.66.
[3] V.minutas, “small,” i.e., young.
[68] A SIMILAR DISHSIMILITER
PARBOIL POLYPODY [1] ROOT SO AS TO SOFTEN THEM, CUT THEM INTO SMALL PIECES, SEASON WITH GROUND PEPPER AND CUMIN, ARRANGE IN A BAKING DISH, FINISH ON THE FIRE AND SERVE [2].
[1] V. Roots of the fern herb.
[2] V. Although these instructions for vegetable dinners are rather vague, they resemble primitivechartreuses—fancy vegetable dishes developed by the Carthusian monks to whom flesh eating was forbidden. Elsewhere in Apicius we shall find thechartreusedeveloped to a remarkable degree.
[69] ANOTHER LAXATIVEALITER AD VENTREM[1]
SCRUB AND WASH BUNDLES OF BEETS BY RUBBING THEM WITH A LITTLE SODA [2]. TIE THEM IN INDIVIDUAL BUNDLES, PUT INTO WATER TO BE COOKED, WHEN DONE, SEASON WITH REDUCED MUST OR RAISIN WINE AND CUMIN,SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER, ADD A LITTLE OIL, AND WHEN HOT, CRUSH POLYPODY AND NUTS WITH BROTH, ADD THIS TO THE RED-HOT PAN, INCORPORATING IT WITH THE BEETS, TAKE OFF THE FIRE QUICKLY AND SERVE.
[1] This formula wanting in Tor.
[2] V. Ingenious method to skin tender root vegetables, still in vogue today. We remove the skin of tender young root vegetables, carrots, beets, etc., by placing them in a towel, sprinkling them with rock salt and shaking them energetically. The modern power vegetable peeler is really built on the same principle, only instead of salt (which soon melts) carborundum or rough concrete surfaces are used, against which surfaces the vegetables are hurled by the rotary motion; often enough, too much of the skin is removed, however.
[70] BEETS À LA VARROBETACEOS VARRONIS[1]
VARRO BEETS, THAT IS, BLACK ONES [2] OF WHICH THE ROOTS MUST BE CLEANED WELL, COOK THEM WITH MEAD AND A LITTLE SALT AND OIL; BOIL THEM DOWN IN THIS LIQUOR SO THAT THE ROOTS ARE SATURATED THEREBY; THE LIQUID ITSELF IS GOOD DRINKING. IT IS ALSO NICE TO COOK A CHICKEN IN WITH THEM.
[1] G.-V.Betacios; Tor.B. Varrones. Probably named for Varro, the writer on agriculture.
[2] Roots on the order of parsnips, salsify, oysterplant.
[71] ANOTHER LAXATIVEALITER AD VENTREM
ANOTHER VEGETABLE DISH, PROMOTING GOOD HEALTH; WASH CELERY, GREENS AND ROOTS, AND DRY IT IN THE SUN: THEN ALSO COOK THE TENDER PART AND HEAD OF LEEKS IN A NEW [1] POT, ALLOWING THE WATER TO BOIL DOWN ONE THIRD OF ITS VOLUME. THEREUPON GRIND PEPPER WITH BROTH AND HONEY IN EQUAL AMOUNTS PROPERLY MEASURED, MIX IT IN THE MORTAR WITH THE WATER OF THE COOKED CELERY, STRAIN, BOIL AGAIN AND USE IT TO MASK THE [cooked] CELERY WITH. IF DESIRED, ADD [the sliced root of the] CELERY TO IT [2].
[1] V. “new,” i.e., cook leeks in a separate sauce pan; NOT together with the celery, which, as the original takes for granted, must be cooked also.
[2] V. We would leave the honey out, make a cream sauce from the stock, or, adding bouillon, tie same with a little flour and butter, and would call the dish Stewed Celery and Leeks. The ancient method is entirely rational because the mineral salts of the vegetables are preserved and utilized (invariably observedby Apicius) which today are often wasted by inexperienced cooks who discard these precious elements with the water in which vegetables are boiled.
[72] ASPARAGUSASPARAGOS
ASPARAGUS [Tor. IN ORDER TO HAVE IT MOST AGREEABLE TO THE PALATE] MUST BE [peeled, washed and] DRIED [1] AND IMMERSED IN BOILING WATER BACKWARDS [2] [3].
[1] V. Must be dried before boiling because the cold water clinging to the stalks is likely to chill the boiling water too much in which the asparagus is to be cooked. Apicius here reveals himself as the consummate cook who is familiar with the finest detail of physical and chemical changes which food undergoes at varying temperatures.
The various editions all agree:asparagos siccabis; Schuch, however, says: “For the insanesiccabisI substitutesiciabis,isiciabis, prepare withsicio[?] and cook.” He even goes on to interpret itcucabisfrom the Greekkouki, cocoanut milk, and infers that the asparagus was first cooked in cocoanut milk and then put back into water, a method we are tempted to pronounce insane.
[2] V. Backwards! G.-V.rursum in calidam; Tac.rursus in aquam calidam; Tor.ac rursus ...
This word has caused us some reflection, but the ensuing discovery made it worth while.Rursushas escaped the attention of the other commentators. In this caserursusmeans backwards, being a contraction fromrevorsum, h.e.reversum. The word is important enough to be observed.
Apicius evidently has the right way of cooking the fine asparagus. The stalks, after being peeled and washed must be bunched together and tied according to sizes, and the bunches must be set into the boiling water “backwards,” that is, they must stand upright with the heads protruding from the water. The heads will be made tender above the water line by rising steam and will be done simultaneously with the harder parts of the stalks. We admit, we have never seen a modern cook observe this method. They usually boil the tender heads to death while the lower stalks are still hard.
Though this formula is incomplete (it fails to state the sauce to be served, also that the asparagus must be peeled and bunched, that the water must contain salt, etc.) it is one of the neatest formulæ in Apicius. It is amusing to note how the author herein unconsciously reveals what a poor litérateur but what a fine cook he is. This is characteristic of most good practitioners. One may perfectly master the vast subject of cookery, yet one may not be able to give a definition of even a single term, let alone the ability to exactly describe one of the many processes of cookery. Real poets often are in the same predicament; none of them ever explained the art satisfactorily.
[3] G.-V. add to the formulacallosiores reddes—give back [eliminate] theharder ones. This sentence belongs to the next article. And Torinus, similar to Humelbergius, renders this sentenceut reddas ad gustum calliores—to render the harder ones palatable—the squash and pumpkin namely—and we are inclined to agree with him.
[73] PUMPKIN, SQUASHCUCURBITAS
TO HAVE THE HARDER ONES PALATABLE, DO THIS: [1] [Cut the fruit into pieces, boil and] SQUEEZE THE WATER OUT OF THE BOILED FRUIT AND ARRANGE [the pieces] IN A BAKING DISH. PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, CUMIN AND SILPHIUM, THAT IS, A VERY LITTLE OF THE LASER ROOT AND A LITTLE RUE, SEASON THIS WITH STOCK, MEASURE A LITTLE VINEGAR AND MIX IN A LITTLE CONDENSED WINE, SO THAT IT CAN BE STRAINED [2] AND POUR THIS LIQUID OVER THE FRUIT IN THE BAKING DISH; LET IT BOIL THREE TIMES, RETIRE FROM THE FIRE AND SPRINKLE WITH VERY LITTLE GROUND PEPPER.
[1] Cf. note 3 to No.72.
[2] List.Ut coloretur—to give it color; Tor.ut ius coletur—fromcolo—to strain, to filter.
Cf. also note 2 to No.55.
[74] PUMPKIN LIKE DASHEENSALITER CUCURBITAS IURE COLOCASIORUM[1]
BOIL THE PUMPKIN IN WATER LIKE COLOCASIA; GRIND PEPPER, CUMIN AND RUE, ADD VINEGAR AND MEASURE OUT THE BROTH IN A SAUCEPAN. THE PUMPKIN PIECES [nicely cut] WATER PRESSED OUT [are arranged] IN A SAUCEPAN WITH THE BROTH AND ARE FINISHED ON THE FIRE WHILE THE JUICE IS BEING TIED WITH A LITTLE ROUX. BEFORE SERVING SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2].
[1] V.Colocasia Antiquorumbelonging to the dasheen or taro family, a valuable tuber, again mentioned in No.172,216,244and322. Cf. various notes, principally that to No.322. Also see U. S. Dept. of Agr. Farmer’s Bulletin No. 1396, p. 2. This is a “new” and commercially and gastronomically important root vegetable, the flavor reminding of a combination of chestnuts and potatoes, popularly known as “Chinese potatoes” which has been recently introduced by the U. S. Government from the West Indies where it received the name, Dasheen, derived fromde Chine—from China.
[2] Tor. continues without interruption into the next formula.
[75] PUMPKIN, ALEXANDRINE STYLEALITER CUCURBITAS MORE ALEXANDRINO
PRESS THE WATER OUT OF THE BOILED PUMPKIN, PLACE IN A BAKING DISH, SPRINKLE WITH SALT, GROUND PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, GREEN MINT AND A LITTLE LASER ROOT; SEASON WITH VINEGAR. NOW ADD DATE WINE AND PIGNOLIA NUTS GROUND WITH HONEY, VINEGAR AND BROTH, MEASURE OUT CONDENSED WINE AND OIL, POUR THIS OVER THE PUMPKIN AND FINISH IN THIS LIQUOR AND SERVE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER BEFORE SERVING.
[76] BOILED PUMPKINALITER CUCURBITAS ELIXATAS
[Boiled Pumpkin] STEWED IN BROTH WITH PURE OIL.
[77] FRIED PUMPKINALITER CUCURBITAS FRICTAS
[Fried pumpkin served with] SIMPLE WINE SAUCE AND PEPPER.
[78] ANOTHER WAY, BOILED AND FRIEDALITER CUCURBITAS ELIXATAS ET FRICTAS
BOILED PUMPKIN FRIED IS PLACED IN A BAKING PAN. SEASON WITH CUMIN WINE, ADD A LITTLE OIL; FINISH ON THE FIRE AND SERVE.
[79] ANOTHER WAY, MASHEDCUCURBITAS FRICTAS TRITAS
FRIED [1] PUMPKIN, SEASONED WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, ORIGANY, ONION, WINE BROTH AND OIL: STEW THE PUMPKIN [in this] IN A BAKING DISH, TIE THE LIQUID WITH ROUX [mash] AND SERVE IN THE DISH.
[1] V. Baking the fruit reduces the water contents, renders the purée more substantial. G.-V.Tritas—mashed. Tor. connectstritasup with pepper, hence it is doubtful whether this dish of pumpkin is mashed pumpkin.
[80] PUMPKIN AND CHICKENCUCURBITAS CUM GALLINA
[Stew the pumpkin with a hen, garnish with] HARD-SKINNED PEACHES, TRUFFLES; PEPPER, CARRAWAY, AND CUMIN,SILPHIUM AND GREEN HERBS, SUCH AS MINT, CELERY, CORIANDER, PENNYROYAL, CRESS, WINE [1] OIL AND VINEGAR.
[1] Tor.Vinum vel oleum; List.vinum,mel,oleum.
[81] CITRONCITRIUM[1]
FOR THE PREPARATION OF CITRON FRUIT WE TAKE SILER [2] FROM THE MOUNTAINS, SILPHIUM, DRY MINT, VINEGAR AND BROTH.
[1] List.Citrini—a lemon or cucumber squash.
[2] Tor.Silerem; List.sil, which is hartwort, a kind of cumin or mountain fennel.
[82] CUCUMBERSCUCUMERES
[Stew the] PEELED CUCUMBERS EITHER IN BROTH [1] OR IN A WINE SAUCE; [and] YOU WILL FIND THEM TO BE TENDER AND NOT CAUSING INDIGESTION.
[1] Usually cucumbers are parboiled in water and then finished in broth; most often after being parboiled they are stuffed with forcemeat and then finished in broth.
[83] CUCUMBERS ANOTHER WAYALITER CUCUMERES RASOS
[Peeled cucumbers are] STEWED WITH BOILED BRAINS, CUMIN AND A LITTLE HONEY. ADD SOME CELERY SEED, STOCK AND OIL, BIND THE GRAVY WITH EGGS [1] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] Tor.bis obligabis—tie twice—for which there is no reason, except in case the sauce should curdle. List.oleo elixabis—fry in oil—obviously wrong, as the materials for this stew are already cooked. Sch.ovis obligabis—bind with eggs—which is the thing to do in this case.
[84] ANOTHER CUCUMBER RECIPEALITER CUCUMERES
CUCUMBERS, PEPPER, PENNYROYAL, HONEY OR CONDENSED MUST, BROTH AND VINEGAR; ONCE IN A WHILE ONE ADDS SILPHIUM.
Sounds like a fancy dressing for raw sliced cucumbers, though there are no directions to this effect.
[85] MELON-GOURD AND MELONSPEPONES ET MELONES
PEPPER, PENNYROYAL, HONEY OR CONDENSED MUST, BROTH AND VINEGAR; ONCE IN A WHILE ONE ADDS SILPHIUM.
Same as84; which confirms above theory. It is quite possible that melons were eaten raw with this fancy dressing. Many people enjoy melons with pepper and salt, or, in salad form with oil and vinegar. Gourds, however, to be palatable, must be boiled and served either hot or cold with this dressing.
[86] MALLOWSMALVAS
THE SMALLER MALLOWS [are prepared] WITH GARUM [1], STOCK [2] OIL AND VINEGAR; THE LARGER MALLOWS [prepare] WITH A WINE SAUCE, PEPPER AND STOCK, [adding] CONDENSED WINE OR RAISIN WINE.
[1] Tor.Garum; List.Oenogarum.
[2]Liquamen—depending upon the mode of serving the mallows, hot or cold.
[87] YOUNG CABBAGE, SPROUTS [1]CYMAS ET CAULICULOS[2]
[Boil the] SPROUTS; [1] [season with] CUMIN [3], SALT, WINE AND OIL; IF YOU LIKE [add] PEPPER, LOVAGE, MINT, RUE, CORIANDER; THE TENDER LEAVES OF THE STALKS [stew] IN BROTH; WINE AND OIL BE THE SEASONING.
[1] Including, perhaps, cauliflower and broccoli.
[2] List.Cimæ & Coliculi. Nunc crudi cum condimentis nunc elixati inferentur.Served sometimes raw with dressing, sometimes boiled.
[3] Cumin or carraway seed is still used today in the preparation of the delicious “Bavarian” cabbage which also includes wine and other spices.
[88] ANOTHER WAYALITER
CUT THE STALKS IN HALF AND BOIL THEM. THE LEAVES ARE MASHED AND SEASONED WITH CORIANDER, ONION, CUMIN, PEPPER, RAISIN WINE, OR CONDENSED WINE AND A LITTLE OIL.
Very sensible way of using cabbage stalks that are usually thrown away. Note the almost scientific procedure: the stalks are separated from the leaves, split tofacilitate cooking; they are cooked separately because they require more time than the tender greens.
Our present method appears barbarous in comparison. We quarter the cabbage head, and either boil it or steam it. As a result either the tender leaves are cooked to death or the stems are still hard. The overcooked parts are not palatable, the underdone ones indigestible. Such being the case, our boiled cabbage is a complete loss, unless prepared the Apician way.
[89] ANOTHER WAYALITER
THE COOKED [1] STALKS ARE PLACED IN A [baking] DISH; MOISTEN WITH STOCK AND PURE OIL, SEASON WITH CUMIN, SPRINKLE [2] WITH PEPPER, LEEKS, CUMIN, AND GREEN CORIANDER [all] CHOPPED UP.
[1] Tor.Coliculi assati—sauté, fried; (Remember:Choux de Bruxelles sauté) List.elixati—boiled. G.-V.Cauliculi elixati.
[2] Tor.Superasperges; G.-V.piper asperges.
Sounds like a salad of cooked cabbage. The original leaves us in doubt as to the temperature of the dish.
[90] ANOTHER WAYALITER
THE VEGETABLE, SEASONED AND PREPARED IN THE ABOVE WAY IS STEWED WITH PARBOILED LEEKS.
[91] ANOTHER WAYALITER
TO THE SPROUTS OR STALKS, SEASONED AND PREPARED AS ABOVE, ARE ADDED GREEN OLIVES WHICH ARE HEATED LIKEWISE.
[92] ANOTHER WAYALITER
PREPARE THE SPROUTS IN THE ABOVE WAY, COVER THEM WITH BOILED SPELT AND PINE NUTS [1] AND SPRINKLE [2] WITH RAISINS.
[1] The nuts should not astonish us. The French today have a delicious dish,Choux de Bruxelles aux Marrons—Brussels Sprouts with Chestnuts. Sprouts and chestnuts are, of course, cooked separately; the lightly boiled sprouts aresautéin butter; the chestnuts parboiled, peeled, and finished in stock with a little sugar or syrup, tossed in butter and served in the center of the sprouts.
The Apician formula with cereal and raisins added is too exotic to suit our modern taste, but without a question is a nutritious dish and complete from a dietetic point of view.
[2] Tor.Superasperges; G.-V.piper asperges.
[93] LEEKSPORROS
WELL MATURED LEEKS [1] ARE BOILED WITH A PINCH OF SALT [2] IN [combined] WATER AND OIL [3]. THEY ARE THEN STEWED IN OIL AND IN THE BEST KIND OF BROTH, AND SERVED.
[1] Tor.Poros bene maturos; G.-V.maturos fieri.
[2] One of the rare instances where Apicius mentions salt in cookery, i.e., salt in a dry form.Pugnum salis—a fist of salt—he prescribes here. Usually it isliquamen—broth, brine—he uses.
[3] Tor. is correct in finishing the sentence here. G.-V. continueet eximes., which is the opening of the next sentence, and it makes a difference in the formula.
[94] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK LEEKSALITER PORROS
WRAP THE LEEKS WELL IN CABBAGE LEAVES, HAVING FIRST COOKED THEM AS DIRECTED ABOVE [1] AND THEN FINISH THEM IN THE ABOVE WAY.
[1] Tor.in primis—first; List., G.-V.in prunis—hot embers.
[95] ANOTHER WAYALITER PORROS
COOK THE LEEKS WITH [laurel] BERRIES [1], [and otherwise treat them] AND SERVE AS ABOVE.
[1] Tor.Porros in bacca coctos; List.in cacabo—cooked in a casserole; Sch.bafa embama—steeped, marinated (in oil); G.-V.in baca coctos. Another way to read this:baca et fabæ—with beans—is quite within reason. The following formula,96, is perhaps only a variant of the above.
Brandt: with olives, referring to No.91as a precedent.
[96] LEEKS AND BEANSALITER PORROS
AFTER HAVING BOILED THE LEEKS IN WATER, [green string] BEANS WHICH HAVE NOT YET BEEN PREPARED OTHERWISE, MAY BE BOILED [in the leek water] [1] PRINCIPALLY ON ACCOUNT OF THE GOOD TASTE THEY WILL ACQUIRE; AND MAY THEN BE SERVED WITH THE LEEKS.
[1] Apicius needed no modern science of nutrition to remind him of the value of the mineral salts in vegetables.
[97] BEETSBETAS
TO MAKE A DISH OF BEETS THAT WILL APPEAL TO YOUR TASTE [1] SLICE [the beets, [2] with] LEEKS AND CRUSH CORIANDER AND CUMIN; ADD RAISIN WINE [3], BOIL ALL DOWN TO PERFECTION: BIND IT, SERVE [the beets] SEPARATE FROM THE BROTH, WITH OIL AND VINEGAR.
[1] Sentence in Tor.; wanting in List.et al.
[2] List. No mention of beets is made in this formula; therefore, it may belong to the foregoing leek recipes. V. This is not so. Here the noun is made subject to the first verb, as is practiced frequently. Moreover, the mode of preparation fits beets nicely, except for the flour to which we object in note 3, below. To cook beets with leeks, spices and wine and serve them (cold) with oil and vinegar is indeed a method that cannot be improved upon.
[3] Tac., Tor., List., G.-V.uvam passam,Farinam—raisins and flour—for which there is no reason. Sch.varianam—raisin wine of the Varianian variety; Bas.Phariam. V. inclined to agree with Sch. and Bas.
[98] ANOTHER WAYALITER BETAS ELIXAS
COOK THE BEETS WITH MUSTARD [seed] AND SERVE THEM WELL PICKLED IN A LITTLE OIL AND VINEGAR.
V. Add bay leaves, cloves, pepper grains, sliced onion and a little sugar, and you have our modern pickled beets.
[99] GREEN VEGETABLES, POT HERBSOLISERA[1]
[The greens] TIED IN HANDY BUNDLES, COOKED AND SERVED WITH PURE OIL; ALSO PROPER WITH FRIED FISH.
[1] Tac.Olisera; Tor.Olifera(sev mauis olyra) Tor. is mistaken. Hum., List.Olisatra; (old Ms. note in our Hum. copy: “Alessandrina uulgò”) fromolusatrum—olus—pot herbs, cabbage, turnips. G.-V.Holisera, fromholus, i.e.olusand fromolitorone who raises pot herbs.
[100] TURNIPS OR NAVEWSRAPAS SIVE NAPOS
[Turnips are] COOKED [soft, the water is] SQUEEZED [out; then] CRUSH A GOOD AMOUNT OF CUMIN AND A LITTLE RUE, ADD PARTHICAN [1] LASER OR [2] VINEGAR, STOCK, CONDENSED WINE AND OIL [3] HEAT MODERATELY AND SERVE.
[1] i.e. Persian laser; List.laser, Parthicum; (the comma makes a difference!) Sch.particum—a part.
[2] Tac., Tor.vel acetum; List. G.-V.mel, acetum. Another comma; and “honey” instead of “or.” V. We doubt this: the vinegar is an alternative, for it takes the place of the more expensive Persianlaser(which was an essence of thelaserroot, often diluted with vinegar).
[3] List., G.-V.oleum modice:fervere; Tor.& oleum, quæ modice fervere facias. Again note Lister’s punctuation here and in the foregoing notes. The misplaced commas and colons raise havoc with the formulæ everywhere. Torinus, who in his preface complains that his authority has no punctuation whatsoever and thereby indicates that it must have been a very ancient copy, (at least prior to the 1503 Tac. ed.) is generally not far from the mark. It is also doubtful that the variants are by him, as is claimed by List. In this instance, indeed, Tor. is again correct.
[101] ANOTHER WAY [1]ALITER RAPAS SIVE NAPOS
[The turnips are] BOILED, SERVED DRESSED WITH OIL, TO WHICH, IF DESIRED, YOU MAY ADD VINEGAR [2].
[1] Tor.ad delitias—delightful.
[2] V. Presumably served cold, as a salad; cf. No.122.