Chapter 16

Market, Thursday.—Fairs, April 4; September 19, for horses, sheep, and cattle.

[B] BEAUDESERT. This place is situated in the hundred of Barlichway. The church is dedicated to St. Nicholas, and exhibits some good specimens of ancient architecture. The village was the birth-place of Richard Jago, the poet, who was the son of the rector: he was born in 1715, and was educated at Solihull grammar-school, about eleven miles distant from this place. His first poetical production which attracted notice was an "Elegy on the Death of a Blackbird," and this was followed by a poem, descriptive of the "Battle of Edgehill," which is considered the most finished of his works: the subject was in all probability suggested by his residence in the neighbourhood of the scene of action. He died on the 8th of April, 1781.

[A] BEAULIEU. The river Exe, over which there is a bridge, is navigable up to this village. Here is a manufacture of coarse sacking. The ruins of Beaulieu Abbey are beautifully situated on the eastern banks of the river. The delightful valley which surrounds these venerable remains, is of a circular form, bounded by well-wooded hills, and in itself, consists of a rich variety of ground. The Abbey was founded, A.D. 1204, byThe Abbey founded by King John.King John, for monks of the Cistercian order; a class of friars to which that monarch had been previously particularly adverse. The king, it is said, after various oppressive measures exercised against the Cistercians, summoned the Abbots and principals of that order, to Lincoln, whither they hastened, flattering themselves that he would there confer upon them some marks of his grace and favor. Instead of this, say the monkish historians, "the savage monarch ordered the Abbots to be trodden to death, by horses: but none of his attendants being found sufficiently cruel to obey the sanguinary command, the ecclesiastics, dreadfully alarmed, retired hastily to their inn. In the course of the ensuing night, when the monarch slumbered on his bed, he dreamt that he was standing before a Judge, accompanied by the Cistercian Abbots, who were commanded to scourge him severely with rods and thongs; and when he awoke in the morning, he declared that he still felt the smart of the beating. On relating this dream to a certain ecclesiastic of his court,The king's singular dream.he was advised to crave pardon of the Abbots, whom he had before so barbarously treated; and assured, that the Almighty had been infinitely merciful to him, in thus revealing the mysteries of his dispensations, and affording him paternal correction. The king, adopting this counsel, ordered the Abbots to attend him; and, contrary to their expectations, received them with kindness:" and the remembrance of his dream still continuing to influence his conduct, he shortly after granted a charter for the foundation of the Abbey of Beaulieu. It was greatly enriched by succeeding grants; and at the Dissolution, its possessions were estimated at the annual value of £428. 6s. 8d. The manor of Beaulieu, with all its rights, privileges, and appurtenances, (the rectory and right of patronage excepted), was granted to Thomas Wriothesley, Esq. afterwards Earl of Southampton. The circumference of the manor embraces an extent of 28The manor extends 28 miles.miles, and the clear annual revenue amounts to between £4000 and £5000. The immediate precincts of the Abbey were encircled by a stone wall, the remains of which are richly mantled with ivy. An edifice, nearly square, now called the palace, but originally built for the Abbot's lodging, was converted into a family seat after the Dissolution. Over the entrance is a canopied niche, in which stood the image of the Virgin Mary. The hall is a well proportioned room, handsomely vaulted, the ribs springing from pilasters, and spreading over the roof in beautiful ramifications. Eastward from this edifice is a long building, supposed from the extent and height of the apartments, to have been the dormitory; beneath it are several good cellars. The ancient kitchen is also standing, and near it is the refectory, a plain stone edifice, with strong buttresses: this is now the parish church of Beaulieu; the Abbey church, which stood to the north-east, having been entirely destroyed. On the west side is the ancient rostrum, or pulpit, from which lectures were read when the monks were assembled at their meals below. The site of the Abbey Church may be traced by the unevenness of the ground; but not a vestige of the building is remaining. Fragments of demolished tombs are occasionally dug up here, this having been the burial-place of various illustrious and noble personages,Burial place of Queen Eleanor.and among them, Queen Eleanor, mother of King John. Some traces of the cloisters are yet distinguishable. Whilst Beaulieu Abbey was invested with the privilege of a sanctuary, its walls afforded a temporary protection to Margaret of Anjou, Queen of Henry VI.; who, returning from the continent, in expectation of being reinstated in her former dignity, was informed of the imprisonment of her husband, the destruction of his army, and the death of the Earl of Warwick, and the elevation to the throne of Edward IV. Another celebrated fugitive, to whom this abbey afforded sanctuary, was Perkin Warbeck, who, after many vicissitudes, was executed at Tyburn, in 1499.

[A] BEAUMARIS, though but a small place, is the capital of the island; it is finely situated on a low shore, called Beaumaris Bay. The present town appears to have originated from the circumstance of a castle having been erected here about the close of the 13th century, by Edward I. It liesChief town in Anglesea.close to the town, covering a large space of ground, in a low situation. Its erection was subsequent to its proud rivals Conway and Caernarvon. The necessity of the present castle arose from Rhyddlan, upon the opposite shore, being often possessed by the Welsh princes. It appears to have been the last of the three great fortresses erected by Edward. On the conquest of Wales in 1295, he fixed upon this spot with a view of surrounding it with a fosse, for the double purpose of defence, and bringing small craft to unload their cargoes under its walls, by a canal, part of which was, till lately, remaining. From the period of its erection to the time of Charles I., it does not appear to have been at all conspicuous on the page of history. A communication was made between various parts of the inner court, by means of a surrounding gallery, about six feet wide, a considerable portion of which is yet entire. Within recesses, in the sides of the gallery, are several square apertures, apparently once furnished with trap doors, which opened into rooms beneath; but their use has not been ascertained. Mr. Grose thinks they might have been used for the purposes of imprisonment. A tennis, fives court, and bowling-green, have been formed within the interior. The town of Beaumaris was surrounded with walls, for its defence, and placed under the government of a corporation, endowed with various privileges and lands. Mr. Lloyd supposes, from local tokens being circulated by opulent tradesmen, about the year 1650, of which he had several in his possession, that it was a place of considerable traffic. The present town consists of several streets, of which one terminated by the castle is handsome, and the houses are generally well built. Beaumaris is much frequented during the summer months, byMuch frequented in summer.numerous genteel families, attracted by the pleasantness of this part of the island, and to avail themselves of the benefit of sea-bathing. The parochial church is a handsome structure, consisting of a chancel, nave, and two aisles, with a large square embattled tower. In the vestry adjoining were deposited the remains of lady Beatrice Herbert, daughter of the celebrated mirror of chivalry, the Lord Herbert of Cherbury. Near which lies interred the Rev. Gronwy Davies, with an inscription concluding as follows:

"Here lies learning, friendship, love;And innocency of the dove.Within this grave and in the dustHis ever courteous body mustUntil the resurrection lie;Then he shall live and death shall die."

The free-school was erected and liberally endowed by David Hughes, Esq., in the year 1603, who ten years afterwards founded also an excellent alms-house for six poor persons, to whom he granted small annuities. He was born about the middle of the 16th century, in a cottage now in ruins. He left the island early in life, in a very humble station, but by prudence and propriety of conduct, he made a decent fortune.

"'T is here the active worth of Hughes appears,A blessed asylum for the wreck of years!If there his views the opening mind engage,Here he supports the trembling limbs of age;His breast embrac'd within his godlike plan,At once the morn and evening hours of man!And ye who here his lasting bounty share,Whose tranquil days decline without a care!If still, as night shall close, day greet your eyes,No grateful aspirations reach the skies,Indignant heaven beholds you with a frown,Nor gives the ingrate, life's immortal crown."Lloyd.

The old town-hall, built in 1563, has been taken down, and under the patronage of Lord Viscount Bulkeley, another more elegant has been erected upon its site. The town, re-incorporated in the 4th year of Elizabeth, is governed by a mayor, recorder, two bailiffs, twenty-four burgessess,Its government.two serjeants at mace, a town clerk, jailor, four constables, and a water-bailiff. The county hall is a small low building, being neither conveniently formed nor respectable in its appearance. The custom-house stands upon the green near the edge of the water. Beaumaris bay consists of an expansive opening in front of the town, so sheltered by the island of Priesholme and the great Ormeshead, as to allow vessels of considerable burden to ride in safety, during the most stormy weather. The depth of water near the town, at ebb-tide, is from six to seven fathoms, but the channel scarcely exceeds a quarter of a mile in breadth. The greater part of the bay is left dry for several miles when the tide is out, which part is called the Lavan Sands. These once formed a habitable hundred, belonging to the territory of Arson. They were formerly called Wylofaen, or the place of Weeping, from the shrieks and lamentations of the inhabitants at the time when the land was overwhelmed by the sea. Lavan is a corruptionLavan sandsof Traeth Talaven, or the fermented heap, allusive to the boiling up of water in the quicksands. The ferry was granted by charter to the corporation in the 4th year of Elizabeth: it lies near the town. The place of embarking or landing is the point anciently known under the appellation of Penrhyn Safness, but afterwards Osmund's Air, from a malefactor, who on his way to execution, being asked where he was going, answered, "To take the air." The walk over the sand at low water is firm and good; they should be passed three hours after high water, and will be safe for four hours; or in other words, two hours before low water and two after. Precautions are essentially necessary to be taken, for near the times of the sands beingCaution.covered by the sea they are frequently shifting, and in many places become so watery or quick, as to have proved both dangerous and fatal. This way is equally perilous in foggy weather, but as some persons are necessitated to pass in every season, the large bell at Aber is humanely rung, to direct them towards the sound.

Market, Wednesday and Saturday.—Fairs, Feb. 13, Holy Thursday, Sept. 19, and Dec. 19, for cattle.—Inn, Bull's Head.

[A] BECCLES is a large and well-built town, situated on the river Waveny, which is navigable from this place to Yarmouth, and divides in its course the counties of Suffolk and Norfolk. It is governed by a portreeve and thirty-six burgesses, the office of the former being held in rotation by twelve of the latter. The church is gothic, with a steeple, containing twelve bells, and a porch, which is considered a fine specimen of the florid gothic. The ruins of Endgate church may be seen out of the town, but the inhabitantsFine gothic church.of the village appear to have been long esteemed parishioners of Beccles. Here is a theatre, a town hall, a jail, and a free school, endowed with 100 acres of land, in the reign of James I.; and a good grammar-school founded by Dr. Falconberge, and endowed with an estate, then worth forty pounds per annum, although now considerably increased in value. Near the town is a large common, on which the inhabitants of the town have the privilege of feeding their cattle on easy terms. In 1586 a fire consumed eighty houses in this place, and property to the amount of £20,000.

Market, Saturday.—Fairs, Whit Monday, June 29, and October 2, for horses and pedlary.—Bankers, Gurney and Co., draw on Barclay and Co.—Mailarrives 10.15 morning; departs 3.45 afternoon.—Inns, King's Head, and White Lion.

[B] BECKENHAM. The church of this village is a neat edifice, containing many monuments of the Style, Raymond, Burrell, and other families. On a slab in the chancel, is a remarkable brass, to the memory of dame Margaret, wife of Sir William Dalsell, Knt., and daughter of John Barnes. Esq., of Redhall, in Norfolk, who died 1563: she is represented in a flowered petticoat, and close-bodied gown; the sleeves slashed at the shoulders, and hanging down to the feet. Here is also the monument of Mrs. Jane Clarke, wife of Dr. Clarke, physician at Epsom, with an elegant inscription, by Gray. The parish register, under the date of Oct. 24, 1740, also records the burial of Margaret Finch, who lived to theQueen of the gipsies died here, at the age of 109.age of 109 years. She was one of the people called gipsies, and had the title of their queen. After travelling over various parts of the kingdom, during the greater part of a century, she settled at Norwood, whither her great age, and the fame of her fortune-telling, attracted numerous visitors. From a habit of sitting on the ground, with her chin resting on her knees, the sinews at length became so contracted, that she could not rise from that posture: after her death, they were obliged to inclose her body in a deep square box. Her funeral was attended by two mourning coaches: a sermon was preached upon the occasion, and a great concourse of people attended the ceremony. Her picture adorns the sign-post of a house of public entertainment in Norwood, called the Gipsy House. Beckenham-place, the seat of John Cator, Esq., is partly in the parish of Bromley; but the mansion itself is in that of Beckenham. Rear-Admiral Sir Piercy Brett, who died in 1781, (and with his lady, lies buried in the church,) resided here. The estate, which had long been owned by the St. Johns, was alienated to the Cators, in 1773. The house is a handsome building, commanding a beautiful prospect. Kent House, the ancient seat of the Lethieullers, in Beckenham parish, is now occupied as a farm: the estate belongs to J.J. Angerstein, Esq. Clay Hill, or the Oakery, also in this parish, was the property of the late learned Edward King, Esq., F.R., and A.S. This gentleman, who was a native of Norfolk, was elected president of the Society of Antiquaries on the decease of Dr. Milles, in 1784; but, on the succeeding election in the year following, he was obliged to relinquish the chair to the Earl of Leicester, after an unprecedented contest. He was the author of various works; the principal of which are, his "Observations on Ancient Castles;" "Morsels of Criticism," tending to illustrate the Scriptures; and the "Monumenta Antiqua." He died in 1806, at the age of 72.

[A] BECKHAMPTON. Near this place is an enormous tumulus, perhaps the largest in England; it is called Silbury Hill, and common belief declares it the place of sepulchre of some British king. The two antiquaries,Silbury Hill.Greethead and Stukeley differ, as antiquaries frequently do, with regard to which of the British monarchs the honor of being supposed to lie beneath this stupendous monument should belong. The former learned writer asserting it to be that of Prydain, and the latter calling it that of Cynneda. Scattered over the neighbouring downs are numerous large stones called the Grey Wethers; they bear this name from their resemblance to a flock of sheep. Beckhampton Inn, stands at the junction of the two great Mail roads, leading from London to Bath; the southern road passing through Devizes and Melksham; and the northern through Calne and Chippenham. The inn is a large brick building, but has a most desolate appearance, according well with the character of the gloomy downs on the margin of which it stands; yet the traveller would do well to refresh here, as there is but little accommodation for many miles beyond.

The Falmouth Mail which passes through Devizes, arrives 5.5 morning; departs 9.20 night. The Bristol Mail which passes through Calne, arrives 5.5 morning; departs 9.35 night.

[B] BECKINGTON was formerly a place of much importance in the clothing business, but the decline of that trade in the west of England has much reduced the town. It was the birth-place of Thomas Beckington, an English prelate, who was one of the three appointed to draw up a code of laws in conformity with which the Wickliffites were to be proceeded against. His book against the salique law is still in the possession of the Lambeth library.

[C] BEDALE is a tolerably well built town, situated in a rich valley, which with the surrounding country is exceedingly fertile, and both corn and grass yield abundant crops. The town lies to the west of the Great; Glasgow road, about two miles from Leeming Lane. Hornby Castle, theSeat of the Duke of Leeds.seat of the Duke of Leeds, deserves the admiration of the tourist. Bedale church is a large and handsome edifice, and the tower is said to have been constructed with so much strength, as to enable the inhabitants to defend themselves therein, during the inroads of the Scots.

Market, Tuesday.—Fairs, Easter Tuesday, Whit-Tuesday; June 6 and 7; July 5 and 6, for horses, cattle, sheep, leather, &c.; Oct. 11 and 12, horned cattle, sheep, hogs and leather; and Monday-week before Christmas, for horned cattle and sheep. The Glasgow Mail arrives at Leeming Lane, two miles distant 7.54 evening; departs 4.58 morning.—Inns, Black Swan, and the Swan.

[A] BEDDGELART, is situated in a beautiful tract of meadows, at the junction of three vales, near the conflux of the Glas Lyn, or Gwynant, orNant Colwyn.Nant hwynant, and the Colwyn, which flows through Nant Colwyn, a vale which leads to Caernarvon. Its situation was the fittest in the world, says Mr. Pennant, to inspire religious meditation, amid lofty mountains, woods, and murmuring streams. The church is small, yet the loftiest in Snowdonia. The east window consists of three narrow slips. The roof is neat, and there yet remains some very pretty fret work. A side chapel is supported by two neat pillars and gothic arches. This church has been conventual, belonging to a priory of Augustines, dedicated to the Virgin. They were probably of the class called Gilbertines, consisting of both men and women, living under the same roof, but divided by a wall, as a piece of ground near the church is called Dol y Llein (the meadow of the nun). No remnant of the priory however exists. The ground on the south side of the church seems to have been the spot whereon the buildings stood which the monks formerly inhabited. There are two or three arched doors on that side the church, through which probably the friars entered. The ancient mansion-house near the church might have been the residence of the prior. In this house is shown an old pewter mug, that will hold upwards of two quarts; and any person able to grasp it with one hand, while full of ale, and to drink it off at one draught, is entitled toAncient pewter mug.the liquor gratis, and the tenant is to charge it to the lord of the manor as part payment of his rent. Tradition says, that Llewelyn the Great came to reside at Beddgelart during the hunting season, with his wife and children; and one day, the family being absent, a wolf had entered the house. On returning, his greyhound, called Ciliart, met him, wagging his tail, but covered with blood. The prince being alarmed, ran into the nursery, and found the cradle in which the child had lain covered with blood. Imagining the greyhound had killed the child, he immediately drew his sword and slew him, but on turning up the cradle,Tradition of a wolf and child.he found under it the child alive, and the wolf dead. This so affected the prince, that he erected a tomb over his faithful dog's grave, where, afterwards, the parish church was built, and called from this accident, Bedd-Cilihart, or the grave of Cilihart. In the Welch annals this region is styled the forest of Snowdon. It is a subject of great regret to most tourists, that many of the rocks which surround Beddgelart, though once covered with oaks, are now naked. One proprietor, however, is raising new plantations upon his estate. Snowdonia, though once a forest, contains now scarcely a tree. Salmon is very plentiful here, selling sometimes as low as three-farthings a pound; the average price is about four-pence. The best land lets at 20s. an acre; but the average of the neighbourhood is from 2s. 6d. to 5s., with unlimited right of common upon the mountains. In this little plain is an almost inexhaustible turbary, or right of digging turf. There is a comfortable inn at this place, called Beddgelart Hotel. It is marked by the emblem of theGuide to the mountains.goat, with the following appropriate motto. "Patria mea Petra." My country is a rock. The guide to the mountains is the harper of the house; or a resident in the village. William Lloyd, the schoolmaster of this place, was long noted as an intelligent "conductor to Snowdon, Moel Hebog, Dinas Emrys, Llanberis pass, the lakes, waterfalls, &c.; he was also a collector of crystals, fossils, and natural curiosities found in these regions. Dealer in superfine woollen hose, socks, gloves, &c.," but in the year 1804, he finally emerged from all sublunary avocations, to the regions beyond the grave. Opposite to the village of Beddgelart, is Moel Hebog (the hill of flight) which Lord Lyttelton ascended. [see Festiniog.] In a bog near that mountain, was found in 1784, a most curious brass shield, which was deposited with Mr. Williams, of Llanidan; its diameter was two feet two inches, the weight four pounds; in the centre was a plain umbo projecting above two inches; the surface was marked with twenty-sevenBrass shield found.smooth concentric elevated circles, and between each a depressed space of the same breadth with the elevated parts, marked by a single row of smooth studs. The whole shield was flat and very flexible. This was probably Roman, for the Welsh despised every species of defensive armour. In ascending the summit of Snowdon from this place, a neighbouring vale is passed, which is by far the most beautiful of the vales among these mountains. It is about six miles long, and affords a great variety of wood, lakes, and meadows. The vale of Llanberis is the only one which may be said to rival it; but their characters are so different, that they cannot with propriety be compared. On the left, about a mile and a half up the valley, is a lofty wood-clad rock, called the fort of Ambrosius, or Merlin Ermys, a magician who was sent for to this place from Caermarthen, by Vortigern, who was king of Britain from 449 to 466. Upon its summit is a level piece of ground, and the remains of a square fort; and upon the west side, facing Beddgelart, there are traces of a long wall. It stands detached from other rocks, and at a distance appears in the form of a man's hat. Adjoining is a stonyGroves of the magicians.tract called the cells or groves of the magicians. In the next field, a number of large stones are called the tombs of the magicians. It was to this place that Vortigern retired, when he found himself despised by his subjects, and unable to contend longer with the treacherous Saxons, whom he had introduced into his kingdom. It is probable that this insular rock afforded him a temporary residence till he removed to his final retreat in Nant Gwrtheyrn, or Vortigern's Valley. Speed says, probably without truth, that Vortigern married his own child by Rowena, daughter of Hengist, the Saxon prince, and had by her one son. There is a tradition, that Madog, the son of prince Owen Gwynedd, resided in this vale for some time before he left his country for America. The entrance from Beddgelart, is but the breadth of a narrow rugged road, close by the river's side, in which there is nothing inviting; but passing on, the traveller advances upon enchanted ground, where he finds extensive meadows, expanding at every turn of rock, smooth as a bowling green; beautiful lakes and meandering rivers, abounding in fish; mountains towering one above the other in succession, while to the left, Snowdon overtops them all, seemingSnowdon.like another Atlas, to support the firmament. Mr. Pennant, says he continued his walk along a narrow path above the lake, as far as the extremity; then descending, reached the opposite side, in order to encounter a third ascent, as arduous as the preceding. This brought him into the horrible crater immediately beneath the great precipice of Wyddfa; its situation is dreadful, surrounded by more than three parts of a circle, with the most horrible precipices of the highest peak of Snowdon. The strange break, called the pass of the Arrows, was probably a station for the hunters to watch the wandering of the deer. The margin of Ffynmon-las here appeared to be shallow and gravelly, the waters had a greenish cast, but what is very singular, the rocks reflected into them seemed varied with stripes of the richest colours, like the most beautiful lute-strings, andThe pass of the Arrows.changed almost to infinity. Here he observed the wheat-ear, a small and seemingly tender bird, and yet almost the only small one, or indeed the only one, (except the rock-ouzel) that frequents these heights; the reason is evidently the want of food. The mountainous tract near Snowdon, scarcely yields any corn; the produce is cattle and sheep, which during summer they keep very high in the mountains, followed by their owners with their families, who reside during that season in their Havod-dai, or summer dwelling, or dairy houses, as the farmers in the Swiss Alps do in their Sennes. These houses consist of a long low room, with a hole at one end to let out the smoke, from the fire which is made beneath. Their furniture is very simple, stones are the substitutes for stools, and the beds are of hay, ranged along the sides: they manufacture their own clothes and dye them with plants, collected from the rocks. During summer, the men passThe summer habits of the mountaineers.their time in harvest work, or tending their herds; the women in milking, or making butter and cheese of the milk for their own consumption. The diet of these mountaineers is very plain, consisting of butter, cheese and oat bread; their drink is whey, not but that they have their reserve of a few bottles of very strong beer, by way of cordial, in sickness. They are people of good understanding, wary, and circumspect; usually tall, thin, and of strong constitutions, from their way of living. Towards winter, they descend to their old dwelling, where they lead, during that season, a vacant life, in carding, spinning, knitting, &c. The height of Snowdon is 3571 feet.

[A] BEDFORDSHIRE. This county, before the Roman invasion, was part of the district inhabited by a race of people whom the invaders denominated Cassii. Afterwards, in A.D. 310, it was a third part of the division named Flavia Cæsariensis. After that, it was attached to the kingdom of Mercia. In 827 it became subject to the West Saxons. It was first called Bedfordshire in the reign of Alfred the Great, probably from Bedan Forda: i.e. The Fortress on the Ford; there being fortifications on the borders of the river Ouse. It is an inland county, bounded on the north by Huntingdonshire and Northamptonshire; west by Buckinghamshire;An inland county.south by Bucks and Herts; and east by Herts and Cambridgeshire. Its form approaches an irregular parallelogram, with many deep and almost isolated indentations. The extent is about 36 miles in the greatest length, and the greatest breadth about 22 miles; it contains 465 square miles; circumference about 95 miles. It is divided into 9 hundreds, 125 parishes, 10 market towns, 58 vicarages, 550 villages, having a total population of 95,383 inhabitants. It belongs to the Norfolk circuit, and is in the diocese of Lincoln; subject to an archdeaconal jurisdiction, being divided into six deaneries. The climate is deemed mild and genial. The prevailing winds south westerly; the north east winds being regarded as indicating a cold summer and a severe winter. The soil is of an exceedinglyClimate mild.mixed and varied character; but much the greatest portion is of a clayey nature, particularly in parts north of Bedford. The south districts are chalky. A slip extending diagonally from Woburn to near Biggleswade is a mixed sand; an almost equal portion from the vicinity of Biggleswade to the neighbourhood of Bedford, partakes of a rich gravelly soil; part of which, near the town of Biggleswade and village of Sandy, is successfully cultivated for the production of garden vegetables to a considerableValue of the land.extent. So peculiarly is that soil adapted for such produce, that it is in some instances let for more than £14. per acre; and generally from £4. to £9. may be considered as a fair rent for that luxuriant soil. There can be no standard or real average as to the value of land; as the value, like the soil itself, is exceedingly variable. Rivers.—The Ouse and the Ivel are the chief; both of which abound with fish of various kinds. The Ouse is remarkable for very great and sudden inundations. The Grand Junction Canal skirts this county at Leighton Buzzard. The natural produce consists chiefly in corn, garden vegetables, cheese and butter. There is a little ironstone, limestone, and a few extraneous fossils. There are several mineral springs, but none of any celebrity. The principal landed proprietor is the Duke of Bedford. His Grace possesses estates in about 25 parishes; under the auspices of whom and of his illustrious brother, the county is indebted for immense agricultural improvements.

[A] BEDFORD. This is an ancient corporation, the earliest charter of which is dated in 1160. It is governed by a mayor, recorder, aldermen, two chamberlains, and thirteen common councilmen. Whoever may have been a mayor is always afterwards reputed as an alderman. The mayor and bailiffs are chosen annually out of the freemen. As early as the yearVery ancient corporation.1295, it sent two members to parliament. The Duke of Bedford takes his title from this town, which first gave title of duke to the victorious prince John Plantagenet, Regent of France, during the minority of his nephew, Henry VI. as it did in the reign of Edward IV. first to John Nevil, Marquis of Montacute, and then to the king's third son, George Plantagenet; but he dying an infant, the title lay vacant till Henry VII. created his uncle, Jasper Tudor, Duke of Bedford, who also died without issue; and thus far the title was enjoyed by the first possessor only of each family. But King Edward VI. making John, Lord Russel, Earl of Bedford, the dignity has ever since been in that illustrious house, with an advancement of it to the title of Duke, by King William III. The historyOrigin of the Bedford family.of the noble family of Russell is curious and interesting. They appear to have originated in Dorsetshire, and owe their greatness to an accident on that coast. In the reign of Henry VII., Philip, Archduke of Austria, being bound for Spain, the heiress of which kingdom he had married, was obliged by a storm to put on shore at Weymouth, where he was received by Sir Thomas Frenchard, of Wolverton, Knt., who, till he could inform the court of the event, sent for his neighbour Mr. John Russell, then lately returned from his travels, to entertain his illustrious guests. The Archduke was so pleased with his conversation, that he recommended him to the king of England, who soon advanced him to several honourable posts, and his son Henry VIII. created him Baron Russell of Cheneys, in the county of Bucks, which estate he afterwards acquired by marriage. He was made by Henry VIII. lord warden of the stannaries, and lord admiral of England and Ireland, knight of the garter, and lord privy seal. In the reign of Edward VI. he was lord high steward for the coronation, and had a grant of Woburn Abbey, and was in the 3rd of Edward VI. 1549, created earl of Bedford. He had the honour to conduct over to England, Philip of Spain, grandson to the prince who first brought him to court and advancement. He died 1554, and was succeeded by his son Francis, who died in 1585, and was buried at Cheneys, as were most of his descendants. His son Francis being killed a day or two before his father's death, by the Scotch in the marches, his son Edward succeeded his grandfather, and died 1627; he was succeeded by his cousin Francis, son of his uncle William, lord Russell, of Thornhaugh, lord deputy of Ireland, in the reign of Elizabeth. This Francis was the first projector of the draining of the great level of the fens, called afterBedford Level.him, Bedford Level, and dying 1641, was succeeded by his eldest son William, who after having several times joined both parties during the civil war, at last adhered to the royal cause, and suffered a severe loss in the death of his only son by the very family whom he had supported; to compensate for which he was created by King William, Marquis of Tavistock, and Duke of Bedford, and dying in 1700, was succeeded by his grandson Wriothesley. He, in 1711, by his son and namesake, and he 1732, by his brother John, who, dying in 1771, was succeeded by his grandson Francis, the late duke, who died rather suddenly, of an illness occasioned by a rupture, on the 2nd of March, 1802, in the 37th year of his age. His brother, Lord John Russell, succeeded him in his title and estates. This nobleman, so suddenly and unexpectedly raised to ducal honours, was born on the sixth of July, 1766; and, on the 21st of March, 1786, before he had completed his twentieth year, he married at Brussels, Georgiana Elizabeth, the second daughter of Viscount Torrington. This lady died on the 11th of October, 1801; leaving issue, Francis, born May 10, 1788; George William, born May 8, 1790; and John, born August 19, 1792. Shortly after his accession to the title, his grace married a second time, Georgiana, the fifth daughter of the duke of Gordon, by whom he had several children. After the death of Mr. Pitt, when Mr. Fox and his friends succeeded to power, his grace was appointed Lord Lieutenant of Ireland; a post which, without distinguishing himself as a party man, he filled to the entire and general satisfaction of the public. When Henry II. granted a charter to the burgessesFirst charter granted by Henry II.of the town of Bedford, he rendered it subject to the payment of £40. per annum, as a fee-farm rent to the crown. Their mercantile guild and ancient privileges were confirmed by the succeeding monarch, who also granted new privileges and immunities similar to those enjoyed by the burgesses of Oxford. Richard II. granted still more extended privileges, and among others a view of Frankpledge within the borough. In this monarch's charter the corporation are styled the mayor, bailiffs, and burgesses. In the reign of Edward I. the liberties of the town were seized by that monarch, the bailiffs having neglected to discharge the fee-farm rent. In the reign of Henry VI. the town being much decayed, many houses gone to ruin, and the trade of it brought low, and the usual issues discontinued, the inhabitants petitioned the king to shew them his grace: accordingly he granted that the yearly rent should be remitted in part for a time. In the reign of Henry VII. it was permanently reduced, through the interposition of Sir Reginald Bray, then Prime Minister, to £20. per annum, and afterwards to £16. 5s. 8d. which rent is now payable to their successors. The last renewal of the charter of incorporation was in the reign of King James II. in whose time the mayor and aldermen were removed from their respective offices, by royal mandate, for neglecting to elect two burgesses to serve in parliament. The members were in consequence chosen by his Majesty's ministers. The right of election was determined in 1690, to be in the burgesses, freemen, and inhabitant householders not receiving alms. The number of voters is nearly 500. Bedford is a place of great antiquity, and is supposed by some writers to have been the Lactidorum of Antoninus; but Camden objects to this, on the ground that the town is not situated on any Roman road, neither have any Roman coins been found there. Its situation is upon the Ouse, by which it is divided into two parts, in the direction of east and west. This circumstance enables it to carry on a considerable trade with Lynn. In the Saxons' time, Bedford was a place of considerable consequence: asKing Offa buried here.appears from its having been chosen by Offa, the powerful King of the Mercians, for his burial place. His bones were interred in a small chapel, which being situated on the brink of the river Ouse, was afterwards undermined and swept away by the floods, during an inundation. Bedford, as has been already stated, was also famous for a victory gained in the year 572, by Cuthwlf, the Saxon king, over the Britons. The Danes once destroyed this town; but Edward the Elder repaired it, and united the town on the south side of the river, called Mikesgate, to Bedford, on the north side of it; since which they have both gone by this name. After the conquest, Pain de Beauchamp, the third Baron of Bedford, built a castle here, encompassed with a mighty rampart of earth, and a high wall, the whole so strong that King Stephen, who besieged and took it in his war with the Empress Maud, was glad to grant the garrison honourable terms. In the barons' wars it was again besieged, and for want of relief, taken by King John's forces under Fulco de Brent, to whom the King gave it for a reward; but for his subsequent behaviour he took it from him, and caused it to be demolished, though it was not quite level till the reign of Henry III. The celebrated John Bunyan, whom we shall noticeJohn Bunyan.hereafter, was ordained co-pastor of the congregation of St. Peter's, in 1671, and continued in that situation until he died in 1688. The chair in which he used to sit is still preserved as a relic in the vestry of the chapel. As early as the year 1745, the Moravians, or society of Unitas Fratrum, had an establishment at Bedford, where they built a neat chapel in 1750. Of late years, however, the number of these recluse and inoffensive sectaries has considerably declined; and the house adjoining to the chapel, which was formerly appropriated to the brethren and the sisters of the society, has been converted into a school. In the year 1556, SirNoble charity, founded by Sir William Harper.William Harper founded a free school in Bedford, for the instruction of children of the town in grammar and good manners. The school-house was rebuilt in 1767, when a statue of the founder was placed in the front, with a latin inscription beneath, to the following effect:—

"Behold, Traveller, the Bodily ResemblanceOf Sir William Harper, Knight;Of this School,Thus spacious and Adorned,The Munificent Founder,The Picture of His Mind,Is Dedicated in the Table of Benefactions."

The warden and fellows of New College, Oxford, are visitors of this school, and have the appointment of the masters and ushers. The master's salary is £260. with coals and candles; that of the second master is £160., with the same allowance of fire and candle. The writing-master has a salary of £80. per annum. Sir William Harper, for the support of this excellent institution, conveyed to the corporation thirteen acres and one rood of land, lying in the parish of St. Andrew, Holborn, which he had purchased for the sum of £180.; he also conveyed his late dwelling-house, &c., at Bedford. The revenues of these estates were also to be applied towards apportioning maidens of the town on their entrance into the marriage estate. In the year 1660, the corporation leased the whole of the lands in the parish of St. Andrew, Holborn, for the term of 41 years, at the yearly rent of £99. In the year 1684, a reversionaryIts revenues.lease was granted for the further term of 51 years, at the improved rent of £150. In consequence of granting these leases, a great number of houses were built, and the following streets covered the above-mentioned thirteen acres of meadow land:—Bedford-street, Bedford-row, Bedford-court, Princes-street, Theobald's-road, North-street, East-street, Lamb's Conduit-street, Queen-street, Eagle-street, Boswell-court, Queen-street, Harper-street, Richbell-court, Hand-court, Gray's Inn-passage, Three Cup-yard, &c. The annual rent of these buildings is now considerably increased, and it is expected that in a few years it will amount to upwards of £30,000. This extraordinary increase of revenue occasioned the trustees to apply to parliament for two several acts to regulate its disposal, and to extend the objects of the charity. By the priorism contained in these acts of parliament, the maintenance of the master and usher of the grammar-school, and the maintenance of a master, and two ushers to the English school, is provided. Three exhibitions of £40. per annum, are given to scholars from the free school, either at Oxford or Cambridge, during the space of six years. The sum of £800. per annum is appropriated for marriage portions, to be given by lot in sums of £20. each, to forty poor maidens of Bedford, of good fame and reputation, not under sixteen years of age, and not exceeding fifty. They are not to marry within two months after receiving the marriage portion, otherwise to forfeit it. The men to whom they are to be married must not be vagrants or persons of bad fame or reputation. A yearly sum of £3,000. per annum is also appropriated by the last act, for the maintenance of twenty-six boys in an hospital or school of industry, and £700. to be laid out in apprentice fees for fifteen poor boys and five girls, to be chosen by lot. The trustees have likewise been enabled to build alms-houses forAlms-houses.a number of poor men and women. The weekly allowance to each is 3s., and 40s. annually for clothing. If a poor man and his wife live together, they are allowed to the amount of 5s. per week. One hundred pounds per annum is appropriated to be given in sums of £5. each, to twenty poor girls upon their going out to service. The residue of the income is to be laid out in buildings, and in endowing more alms-houses, or building cottages to be let at a low rent to the poor. Here are also a house of industry, and an infirmary, which are well supported. Lace-making employs a great number of the lower classes, both in the town and county of Bedford. The lace is chiefly made by women; and children at theLace-making,the chief trade.early age of four years are set down to it. On certain days, the persons appointed by the dealers collect the lace of the different villages, and convey it to the London market. A strong stone bridge connects the northern and southern parts of the town. "This bridge," says Grose, "is one hundred and sixteen yards in length, four and a half broad, and has a parapet three feet and a half high; this, it is said, was erected in the reign of Queen Mary, out of the ruins of St. Dunstan's church, which stood on the south side of the bridge. It has seven arches, and near the centre were two gate-houses; that on the north, being used for a prison, and that on the south served as a store-house for the arms and ammunition of the troops quartered here. These gate-houses were taken down in the year 1765, and six lamps set up on posts at proper distances." The town-hall, or sessions-house, in which the assizes for the county are holden, is situated in an area before St. Paul's church. It was erected in the year 1753, and is a capacious and handsome structure.

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