Chapter 6

Market, Saturday—Mailarrives at 1½ A.M., departs 11¼ P.M.—Fairs, October 7 and 8, for sheep, &.C; November 24, for sheep and oxen; November 5, for pigs.

[A] APPLEDORE is situated on the banks of the river Rother, in the hundred of Blackburn, lathe of Scray, and was a place of some maritimePrincipally inhabited by Graziers.consequence in the reign of Alfred. The town is at present chiefly inhabited by graziers and others employed in the marshes, to which it is very near. The church is built on the foundation of a castle or fort, which had been erected by the Danes, who sailed up to this town in the year 893.

Market. Tuesday.—Fairs. Jan. 11, and 4th Mon. in June for cattle and pedlery.

[B] APPLESHAW.—Great Show Fair, Friday and Saturday before Weyhill Fair. Nov. 4 and 5, all for sheep.

[C] APPLETHWAITE. All the fisheries on the lovely lake of Winandermere belong to the inhabitants of this thriving village, and subjectLake of Winandermere.only to a tithe of the fish caught to the Rector of Winandermere, who makes composition for the same, by a sum prescribed by each boat. The red char, esteemed so great a delicacy, is said to be peculiar to the lakes of Winandermere and Ullswater; this delicious fish is taken in netsGrand Regatta.during the months of October and May, when they are potted and sent to different parts of the kingdom. About the beginning of September a grand regatta is given on the lucid waters of the lake, attended by families of the first distinction.

[D] APPLETON. This village was the birth place of the famous physician and chemist, Edmund Dickinson, who was born in the year 1624. At 20 years of age he went to the university of Oxford; in 1655, (he published a work to prove) that the Greeks borrowed the story of the Pythian Apollo,Birth place of the learned Edmund Dickinsonand all that related to the Oracle of Delphos, from the Holy Scriptures. In consequence of some excellent cures, he was appointed Physician to Charles II., and afterwards became a convert to the doctrine of the Transmutation of Metals; and wrote a work, the object of which is to prove, "that the method and mode of the creation of the universe, (according to the principles of true philosophy,) are strictly and concisely laid down by Moses." He died in 1707.

[E] APPLETREWICK. In this village was born William Craven, the founder of the noble House of Craven, who by his industry and goodHouse of Craven.conduct arose from an humble station to the dignity of Lord Mayor of London—a proof of the advantages attendant on industry.

[A] ARBORFIELD, in the hundred of Sonning. In this parish, near the church, is an ancient Manor-house, well worthy of the observation of the Antiquary; it was built by the family of the Standens, who were Lords of the Manor in the 17th century. The last male heir of this ancient familyMolly Mogg.was Edward Standen, the person alluded to in the popular ballad of Molly Mogg.

Fair, October 5, cattle.

[B] ARDINGLEY. In the parish church are several monuments of the ancient families of the Wakehursts and Culpeppers; one of which is a tomb to the memory of Nicholas Culpepper and his lady, who died in the beginning of the sixteenth century. This monument bears his portraiture with that of his wife and eighteen children. Nicholas Culpepper, the celebratedCulpepper, the herbalist and astrologer.herbalist and astrologer, was born in London in 1616, and after receiving his education at the university of Cambridge, was apprenticed to an apothecary. He came to London and settled in Spitalfields about 1642. He commenced a war with the College of Physicians, by accusing them of deceit and ignorance, and published a translation of their "Dispensary," giving an account of the supposed virtues of each drug, and the complaints in which they were used. He was also author of the "Herbal," which is written with much clearness, and distinctly explained. It passed through many editions. From the tenor of his writings, it may be gathered that he joined or at least favoured the Jesuits.

Fair, May 30, Pedlary.

[C] ARDSLEY. The birth place of James Nayler, a Quaker, who was remarkable both on account of the extravagance of the delusions which forJ. Nayler, the Quaker, a remarkable fanatic;some time possessed him and his followers, and the excessive severity of the punishment which was inflicted upon him. He was the son of an industrious little farmer, who supported his family by the cultivation of his own estate. About the age of twenty-two he married, and removed into the parish of Wakefield, where he continued till the breaking out of the civil wars in 1641. He then entered into the parliament army, and served as a soldier eight or nine years, at first under Lord Fairfax, andbecomes a soldier.afterwards as quarter-master in major-general Lambert's troop in Scotland; till, being disabled by sickness, he returned home about the year 1649. At this time he was a member of the Independent party, and continued so till the year 1651, when the preaching of George Fox made him a convert to the communion of the Quakers, as they are called. Among them he soon commenced preacher, and, according to their judgment, acquitted himself well both in speaking and writing.

In the beginning of the following year he imagined he heard a voice, calling upon him to renounce his kindred and his father's house, and go into the west, promising that God would be with him. In obedience to this voice, which he believed to be the voice of God, he went about preaching from place to place, and greatly increased the numbers of the new sect. Towards the close of the year 1654, or early in 1655, he came to London, where he found a meeting of Friends which had been established by Edward Burrough and Francis Howgill, among whom he so greatly distinguished himself by his preaching, that many drew invidious comparisons between him and his brethren, which created uneasiness and differences in the society. To such a length did these proceed, that some women, admirers of Nayler, assumed the liberty of interrupting and disputing with Howgill and Burrough in the midst of their preachings, and thus disturbed the peace of the meetings. For this conduct they were reproved by these preachers; upon which they complained so loudly and passionately to Nayler, that he was weak enough to take their part, and was so intoxicated with their flattering praises, that he became estranged from his best friends, who strongly disapproved of and lamented his conduct. In the year 1658 we find him in Devonshire, where he was committed to ExeterCommitted to Exeter Jail for blasphemy.jail for propagating his opinions. Here he received letters from some of his female admirers and others, written in the most extravagant strains, calling him the everlasting Son of righteous—the Prince of peace—the only begotten Son of God—the fairest among ten thousand, &c., and some of his followers kneeled before him in the prison, and kissed his feet. It is but justice, however, to the Quakers in general to mention, that they had now disowned Nayler and his adherents.

Soon afterwards Nayler was released from imprisonment, and intended to return to London, but, taking Bristol in his way, as he passed through Glastonbury and Wells, his deluded attendants strewed their garments before him. When they came to Bedminster, about a mile from Bristol,Extravagant conduct of his admirers.they carried their extravagance to the highest pitch; for they formed a procession in imitation of our Saviour's entrance into Jerusalem, in which a man walked bare-headed before Nayler, and a woman led his horse, while other women spread their scarfs and hankerchiefs in the road, and the company sung, "Holy, holy, holy is the Lord God of hosts; Hosanna in the highest! holy, holy is the Lord God of Israel!" In this manner these mad people made their entrance into Bristol, marching through the mire and dirt, to the amazement of some, and the diversion of others; but the magistrates thought proper to interfere, and, after what had passed, committed them to prison. Soon afterwards they were sent to London and a committee was appointed by parliament to examine witnesses against Nayler, upon a charge of blasphemy, for admitting religious worship to be paid ti him, and for assuming the names and incommunicable titles and attributes of our blessed Saviour. Before the committee, he did not deny what was alleged concerning the extraordinary proceeding in Exeter jail, and at his entrance into Bristol; while defending himself by maintaining that the honours which he received were not shown to him, but to Christ who dwelt within him; and if they were offered to any other than to Christ, he disowned them.

However, the committee having made a report to the house on the fifth of December, declaring the charge well founded, on the following day he was sent for, and heard at the bar; and on the eighth they resolved that "James Nayler is guilty of horrid blasphemy, and that he is a grand impostor,Condemned by the House of Commons for blasphemy.and a great seducer of the people." The next business to be determined on was, the nature of the punishment to be inflicted on him; which occupied the debate of the house, both on forenoons and afternoons, till the 16th of December, many members being for putting him to death, (and losing their vote, as secretary Thurloe informs us, only by fourteen voices,) while many other members totally disapproved of the severity which was used against him. At length, on the following day, after a considerable debate, the majority came to the resolution, "That James Nayler be set in the pillory, in the Palace-yard, Westminster, during the space of two hours, on Thursday next; and be whipt by the hangman through the streets from Westminster to the Old Exchange, and there likewise be set with his head in the pillory, for the space of two hours, between the hours of eleven and one on Saturday next; in each place wearingCruel sentence—his tongue bored with a hot iron.a paper, containing an inscription of his crimes: And that at the Old Exchange, his tongue be bored through with a hot iron; and that he be there also stigmatized in the forehead with the letter B: That he be afterwards sent to Bristol, and be conveyed into and through the said city on horseback, with his face backward, and there also publicly whipt the next market-day after he comes thither: And that from thence he be committed to prison in Bridewell, London, and there to labour hard till he be released by parliament; and, during that time, be debarred the use of pen, ink, and paper, and shall have no relief but what he earns by his daily labour."

On the eighteenth of December, the first part of it was carried into execution with the greatest rigour; but he was brought into a state of such extreme weakness by his cruel whipping, that, upon repeated applications to the parliament, his punishment was respited for one week. TheHis punishment respitedProtector was then addressed, and wrote a letter to the house, which, though it occasioned some debate, obtained no resolution in favour of the prisoner. On this the petitioners presented a second address to Cromwell; but, it is said the influence of the ministers prevented its effect.

On the twenty-seventh of December, the remainder of Nayler's sentence was executed at the Old Exchange. Afterwards he was sent to Bristol, where he was publicly whipt, from the middle of Thomas-street, over the bridge to Broad-street. From Bristol, he was brought back to Bridewell, London, where he was confined about two years; during which his mind recovered from the frenzy which had governed it, and he felt deep humiliation and sincere repentance on account of his past conduct.

After the protector's death, Nayler was released from prison, and went to Bristol, where, in a public meeting, he made a confession of his offenceHis contrition and death.and fall, in a manner so affecting as to draw tears from most of those who were present, and having afforded satisfactory evidence of his unfeigned contrition, was again received into the communion of his friends.

Nayler did not long survive his enlargement, for having left London in October 1660, with the intention of going home to his wife and children at Wakefield, he was taken ill in Huntingdonshire, where, it is said, he was robbed and left bound in a field. Whether he received any personal injury is not known, but being found towards evening by a countryman, he was carried to a friend's house, at Holm, near King's Ripon, where he expired in the month of December, when about 44 years of age. The expressions uttered by him about two hours before his death, both in justice to his name, which is so conspicuous in the history of the reveries of the human imagination, and on account of their own excellence, ought not to be omitted in the memoirs of his life.

"There is a spirit which I feel," said he, "that delights to do no evil, nor to revenge any wrong, but delights to endure all things, in hopes to enjoy its own in the end. Its hope is to outlive all wrath and contention, and to weary out all exaltation and cruelty, or whatever is of a nature contrary to itself. It sees to the end of all temptation: as it bears no evil in itself, so it conceives none in thoughts to any other. If it be betrayed, it bears it, for its ground and spring is the mercies and forgiveness of God. Its crown is meekness, its life is everlasting love unfeigned, and takes its kingdom with entreaty and not with contention, and keeps it by lowliness of mind."

His writings were collected together, and published in an octavo volume in 1716.

[A] ARKENGARTH-DALE contains lead mines, which were worked in the reign of King John, and they are still so valuable, that a few yearsValuable lead mines.ago the produce was estimated at 2000 tons annually; the inhabitants are chiefly miners.

[B] ARLSEY, or ARSLEY. This village was anciently a market town. In "Doomsday Book," (a book made by order of William the Conqueror, in which all the estates of the kingdom were registered;) its market on Wednesday is recorded, and the tolls valued at 10s. per annum. A fair was held here so long past as the year 1270; but both the market and fair have long been disused. An ancient entrenchment nearAn ancient entrenchment.the road to Baldock, called Etonbury, was probably the original site of the castle occupied by the Lords of the Manor. This castle appears to have a place of considerable strength. Amongst the ancient monuments in the church is one erected to the memory of Richard Edwards, who is called on his epitaph, the last Grand Reader of the Temple.

[C] ARMATHWAITE. Near this village is a castle, situated on the of the delightful river Eden, in a deep vale; the building from its monastic gloom, appears rather to have been calculated for seclusion than security. The front has been modernized, and is built of hewn stone. Its antiquity has not been ascertained, certain it is the Skeltons resided here as early as the reign of Henry VIII. The most romantic and picturesque scenery surrounds this lovely spot. A magnificent hill throws its solemn shade on the tranquil surface of the river, here broadened into a lake like form. Amongst other grand masses of rock is a projecting cragRendezvous of wild catsof a bold and grotesque form called the Cat Glent, the rendezvous of many wild inhabitants of the feline tribe; beyond these is a mill and a few sequestered cottages. From this spot the river Eden is no longer tranquil, but rushing down a cataract pours in sonorous violence over a bed of opposing rock, whose immovable crags whirl the stream into eddies as it passes them in its fury. Near this place a nunnery was established by William Rufus,Nunnery founded by William II.who like other profligates, "trembled amidst his impiety," and was willing enough to secure a chance of heaven, provided it could be obtained by any other means than virtuous practice. At the dissolution of Monasteries, owing to the frequent hostilities between the Scots and English, their income amounted to only 18 guineas per annum.

[D] ARMITAGE is situated on the river Soar, in the hundred of Offlow, South, including the hamlet of Handsacre. The entrance to the church is very curiously built in the Saxon style, and the chapel is separated from the nave by a handsome arch. The Grand Trunk Canal passes through aA remarkable tunnel.very noble subterraneous cavern or tunnel, in this parish. The town received its name from having been the residence of a hermit.

[E] ARMLEY. This township is in the parish of St. Patrick, and the liberty of Leeds. It is situated on the banks of the Leeds and Liverpool Canal, and of the river Aire, on which there are a number of mills employed in various branches of the clothing trade. An object once of great antiquarian curiosity, called Giants Hill, which was a Danish fortification, is now scarcely traceable, in consequence of its having been cut through to form the Leeds and Liverpool canal.

[A] ARRINGTON. This village was anciently called Ermington. It is near Lord Hardwicke's Park. At this place, in the year 1721, the skeletons of sixteen human bodies were found in digging for a water course,Sixteen skeletons found here.within two feet of the surface of the ground. Some pieces of iron much rusted, conjectured to have been pieces of swords were also found. It is supposed the skeletons were the remains of persons who had been killed in endeavouring to obtain possession of the pass over the river Cam, during the civil wars.

[B] ARTHURET. This village is situated on a point of land which in early times was said to have been called Arthur's Head, from whence the name is derived. In this place was both born and buried, Archibald Armstrong, Jester to both King James I., and Charles I. By an incident suitable to his profession, his funeral took place on "All Fools Day," theA merry jester buried on "All Fool's Day."first of April. He was banished the court for speaking too freely of Archbishop Laud's measure of introducing the Liturgy into Scotland, which had produced a considerable tumult. On the arrival of the news of these riots in England, Archy facetiously asked his grace, "Who's the fool now." The joke was bitterly resented by the prelate, who procured an order of council to banish him from the court, for speaking disrespectful words of the Archbishop of Canterbury. This parish is bounded partly by Solway Frith, and forms part of the debateable lands so celebrated in Scottish history; these lands and the celebrated Solway Moss, we shall have occasion to speak further of in the course of the work.

[C] ARUNDEL, is situated on the declivity of a hill, on the north bank of the river Arun, over which there is a bridge. It consists of two principal streets, one of which runs north and south, and the other westward from the point of the union. Many of the houses are built in the castellated style. The church, situated at the north end of the town, originally belonged to a priory of Benedictines, and is supposed to have been founded soon after the conquest of Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Arundel. It is a handsome gothic building with transepts, from the centre of which rises a square tower, with a wooden spire. Some beautiful monuments ofBeautiful monuments in the church.the Earls of Arundel may be seen; and one, more magnificent than the rest, is of alabaster, a calcareous earth, which differs from marble, in being combined not with carbonic, but with sulphuric acid. This monument is erected to the memory of Thomas Fitz-Alan, and Beatrice, his countess, a daughter of John, King of Portugal. The charter by which the town is governed, was granted by Queen Elizabeth. It formerly sent two members, but by the Reform Bill, it now sends but one; the ten pound householders are calculated at 380. The borough comprises the parish of Arundel and the returning officer is the mayor. Here was formerly a harbour sufficient to contain vessels of one hundred tons burthen, but it has suffered great damage by the sea. Great quantities ofQuantities of Sussex oak shipped from this place.timber for ship building, are still shipped from this place, which has but little trade, yet it is much benefitted in summer by the numerous visitors who resort to it for sea bathing. Of the castle, which stands on the north-east side of the town, mention is first made in the will of King Alfred, who bequeathed it, with the town, to his nephew Adhelm. A popularTradition ascribes the foundation of the castle to a giant.tradition ascribes the foundation of it to Beris, "a giant of ancient times," in confirmation of which opinion a tower is still pointed out, called Beris Tower. The Conqueror gave it to his kinsman Roger de Montgomery, whom he also created Earl of Arundel, which title belonged to three persons of this family, till Robert Bellesme was outlawed by Henry I. for the assistance he gave to that monarch's brother, Robert. The castle was then settled on Queen Adeliza, who, after the death of her royal consort, gave her hand to William de Albini, one of the most accomplished men of his age. Here the dowager-queen performed the rites of hospitality towards the Empress Maud, in the attempt of that princess to ascend the throne. The last male heir of the name of Albini, died in 1243, when the castle and manor of Arundel fell to his sister, Isabel, whose husband, John Fitz-Alan, made the castle his residence, and assumed the title of Earl of Arundel. The fourth in descent from him forfeited his life and estates, in the attempt to ruin the Despensers, favouritesThe king presided at the execution of one of its lords.of Edward II.; but the estates were restored to his son, whose successor, in the reign of Richard II., being accused of a conspiracy to seize the king, and put to death the lords of the council, was beheaded; the king presiding at the execution. His son, Thomas Fitz-Alan, was reinstated by Henry IV.; but, he dying without issue, in 1415, the castle devolved to his cousin, Sir John Fitz-Alan, who laid claim to, and obtained the title, on which an act was passed, that the possession of this castle and honour conferred the dignity of Earl without creation. The last Fitz-Alan died in the 22d of Elizabeth, leaving a daughter, who married Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, thus carrying the earldom and estate into that family, to whom they still belong.

Concerning the true period of the foundation of this castle, many conjectures have been entertained. On account of the bricks inserted in the walls of the keep, it has been attributed to the Romans; but such a proofThe great antiquity of the castle.is not allowed by the best antiquaries. Its pretensions to the era of the Saxon kings are more explicit. The more ancient parts are the keep or citadel, and the towers which flank the gateway, and connect the whole by means of a sally port. The keep stands upon an artificial mound, the height of which, from the fosse, is one hundred and ten feet on one side, and eighty on the other. Of its external wall, the height is thirty feet, supported by projecting ribs or buttresses. It is eight feet thick, with a wall on the inside, guarded by a parapet as many feet high. The diameter of the room which is faced with Norman or Caen stone, is sixty-seven feet by fifty-nine. There are also Roman bricks placed in the herring-bone fashion, which is observable in most Saxon buildings. In the centre is a subterraneous room and passage; and in a tower attached to the keep, is a well three hundred feet deep. The approach is by a time-worn staircase, and over a narrow pass, commanding the entrance to the building, which bears the marks of a portcullis. The more ancient one towards the east still retains a very rich Saxon door-case. In the tower above the present entrance, was a small chapel or oratory, dedicated to St. George. TheThe castle dungeons of remarkable depth.tower and gateway facing the base court of the castle are apparently co-temporary with the keep. The other towers are built with flint. The dungeons are on the right and left of the gateway. They consist of eight wards, protected by a draw-bridge from the castle moat. The lower wards are very deep, and partly filled up with rubbish. The foundation walls of these dungeons are not known, although efforts have been employed to discover the length and depth of these frightful abodes. The Empress Maud's apartments are in the tower, above the old gateway. They consist of three bed-rooms. The Saxon keep may justly be termed the ivy-mantled tower, for the walls are literally covered with its leaves. The late Duke of Norfolk was very partial to this retired spot. Here are several remarkably curious owls, elegant, and extremely large; some of themRemarkable owlsmeasuring across the wings, from eight to ten feet. Their plumage is particularly beautiful, and their eyes brilliant. The late duke purchased them from North America. There are many traces of ancient remains about the keep or tower. The spot where the boilers stood, for the purpose of melting the lead to pour down upon the besiegers, and those used for culinary purposes, are still visible. The marks of cannon balls discharged against the tower during the siege of the parliamentary forces, are observable in many places. The ground plan of the present castle nearly resembles that of Windsor Castle, in the exact proportion of nine to fourteen. When the late Duke of Norfolk took possession, the castle was little better than a heap of ruins, but his Grace has restored it to its original magnificence. The building is of free-stone, from the quarries in Yorkshire; and those of a brown cast were carefully selected, in order that they might assimilate in colour with the old remains. The new walls haveThe late Duke of Norfolk restored the castle to its ancient magnificence.risen upon the ancient model, and correspond with the old ones in solidity of fabric, as well as dignity of ornament. An entire new front of massy stone, which differs materially from the others, particularly in exhibiting the insignia of the Howards, mixed with those of their predecessors, and two colossal figures of liberty and hospitality, ornament the grand entrance. In raising this front, the late duke had the opportunity of enlarging the mansion, and gaining the space now occupied on the basement story, by a long range of servants' offices, including a new kitchen, with two fire places, bake-house, scullery, the steward's and housekeeper's rooms, &c. The cellars are of immense length. The duke weekly employed from 100 to 200 labourers, mechanics, and artists, in the improvement and decorations of this noble edifice, for upwards of twenty-fiveEmployed from 100 to 200 labourers for 25 years.years. The arrangements were formed entirely from his own ideas, and in the progress of the plan, he was exclusively his own architect. On the west wing is a beautiful sculptured basso relievo historical representation of King Alfred receiving the report of the jury, as established in his reign. The costume and draperies are finely carved in stone. The interior of the castle is fitted up with great taste and effect. The richest mahogany has been used in almost every decoration. The walls being more than six feet thick, form a kind of frame for each window, which is five feet deep on the inside, and the whole of this spacious case is lined with mahogany. The window frames which hold the magnificent plate glass panes, three feet each in height, are of the same material; and the solid mahogany doors are held in cases of the thickness of the inner walls, perhaps, four feet deep, all lined with pannels of the richest grain.

In the Barons room the following inscription appears:—

"CHARLES HOWARD, DUKE OF NORFOLK,EARL OF ARUNDEL,in the year of Christ, 1806,in the 60th year of his age,dedicated this stoneTo Liberty, asserted by the Barons,in the reign of John."

On the 15th of June, 1815, a great festival took place for celebrating the centenary of the signing of Magna Charta. There was a splendid assemblage of the nobility and persons of distinction. Complete suits of ancientFestival to celebrate the signing of Magna Charter held here.armour, with swords and spears, forged in ancient times, and for very different purposes, were either suspended from, or hung around the walls; and every adventitious aid was adopted to give state and majesty to this celebration of the magnanimous conduct of the Barons of England. Nearly three hundred distinguished guests sat down. The head of the table was ornamented with a noble baron of beef, surmounted by the ducal coronet, and the banners of the illustrious house of Norfolk.

The castle occupies a mile in circumference, and the beautiful domains which surround this magnificent structure, are more than seven miles andThe times when the castle may be inspected by visitors.a half in circumference, enclosed with a strong fence railing. The grounds are well laid out, in gardens, shrubberies, and plantations. There are three agreeable towers in the park; High Horn, commanding an extensive prospect; and Mount Pleasant, covered with ivy, overlooking the beautiful vale of Sussex. The late duke built another tower, facing the road to Petworth, called the White Ways. The castle is open to the inspection of visitors on the first Sunday in the month after divine service, and on every Monday in the year.

When the buildings on the Norfolk estate adjoining the Strand, London, were erected, it was legally settled, that the whole of the rents, should be expendedEstates in London devoted to keep it in repair.for the sole purpose of keeping up Arundel Castle; this has always been acted upon. The original rents having long since fallen in—and the increased income that has been produced by that cause, joined to the general increase of rents in that quarter, has been so great, that it now requires very great ingenuity to contrive the means of laying out all that money according to the directions of the original entail; and this is the real cause of the magnificent style in which that ancient baronial castle is still supported. The estate thus mentioned, comprises the whole of Surrey-street, Arundel-street, Howard-street, and Norfolk-street, which are the entire property of the Norfolk family.

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