CHAPTER II.

SCENERY—PUBLIC GARDENS.

The city has two public libraries; one of them contains between sixty and seventy thousand volumes, in all languages. The other is at the Convent of St. Benedict. I visited that institution when the librarian was absent, but was amply compensated for the tiresome walk up the steep hill, on a hot day, over a very rough pavement, by the beautiful views exhibited in every direction. There, were seen mountain, hill, and dale, cultivated and in a state of nature—an ocean, a bay, a river, and on their surfaces were floating noble line-of-battle ships, merchant vessels, and an abundance of little skiffs. At my feet lay the city, with its busy throng, and at every important point were fortresses and castles, showing forth rows of formidable cannon. The day shone forth with great brilliancy; not a cloud was seen hanging over the Payo d’Assucar, the Corcovado or the Tejuco; numberless vessels were seen far at sea, pressing for the port, under a cloud of white canvass, during the continuance of the breeze. On the left lay the palace of St. Christovao; and, in the far west, a noble range of hills, terminated by the spiked tops of the organ mountains, rendered the picture enchanting and unrivalled. At the foot of the hill is the arsenal; being deficient in room, the wall of the convent, on that side, was taken down, and the rocks being blown away, a secret entrance was discovered under the church, so ingeniously contrived as to be hid from observation—it appeared like the rocks in which it was formed.

Public Gardens.—On the bay shore, commencing near the Praya or Beach do Flamingo, is a pleasant garden, surrounded by a high wall, and guarded at its various entrances by soldiers. It is much resorted to by the inhabitants after sunset. The avenues are of good width, well gravelled, kept clean, and are finely shaded by native and foreign trees, and with hedges of flowers indigenous to the climate; but the pure and wholesome breezes, and a view of the bay, are obstructed by a mound, thrown up unnecessarily high, to protect this retreat against an ever-rolling surf.

Looking to the right at the further extremity of the beach, along which is a range of good houses guarded by a high granite wall, lies the beautiful Gloria hill, having a small white turreted chapel, Nossa Señora de Gloria, or our Lady of Glory. It is of an octagonal shape, lies partially concealed amid noble forest and fruit trees, and is adorned with hedges of myrtle, interspersed with jasmine: and there,

“Weak with nice sense, the chaste Mimosa stands,From each rude touch withdraws her timid hands;Oft as light clouds o’erpass the summer glade,Alarmed, she trembles at the moving shade,And feels alive, through all her tender form,The whispered murmurs of the gathering storm;Shuts her sweet eyelids to approaching night,And hails with freshened charms the rising light.”

I was much gratified with two visits made to the Botanic garden, situated about eight miles from the palace. The first visit was by water, as far as Boto Fogo. From thence it is probably three miles by land over a tolerably good road, lying principally amid mountain scenery, the Corcovado being on the right.

This mountain, on its eastern side, is one immense mass of granite, rising perpendicularly to the height of two thousand feet. On either hand are plantations and gentlemen’s villas. The road was overhung with various fruits—the coffee-tree showing its red berries and the cotton-tree its yellow bulb; or, having burst its outward covering, displaying the contents of its little pod, as white and pure as the new-fallen snow; the hedges were beautifully decorated by the hand of nature with roses, myrtles and jasmines, intertwined with a great variety of creeping plants. On the left, we passed a small brackish piece of water, called Lake Frietas, formed by an encroachment of the sea; which, in heavy gales and during high tides, forces itself over the sandy barrier between the low lands and its waters.

We arrived at noon—an unpropitious hour, for the garden was shut until three, in the afternoon. Being desirous to employ our spare time to the best advantage, we strolled on several miles farther to the seabeach, through sandy plantations, covered entirely with pine-apple, then in a green state and very small. Our toil was unrewarded, as we did not obtain a single shell, (the shore being too sandy,) nor did we see any object worthy of note.

On our return, we visited the garden, and found it a delicious retreat and in fine condition. The broad wide avenues are kept in neat order and lined with trees of various kinds. A fine stream of water conducted from the adjacent mountains, along neat canals, over pebbly beds, passes through the garden and divides the compartments of exotics from the avenues. The servants in attendance explained the endless variety of trees, shrubs and plants, and permitted us to take specimens of every thing we fancied.

This delightful spot is situated at the base of the Corcovado, on a rich plain, fronting the little lake and comprises about seventy acres. Here are many square plots of ground, containing altogether about six acres of tea, both black and green, of which there are said to be ten or twelve varieties. The plant is in height about ten feet, and bears a small, delicate, white flower; it was in a healthy and flourishing condition. The dried tea may be obtained in the city. The amboyna and cayenne cloves grow here; the former being much more fragrant than the latter. We also found the nutmeg—cinnamon of several kinds, pepper, pimento, cardamoms, the camphor and sago palm, the bread-fruit in full bearing, many varieties of the anana or pine-apple, the orange, limes, sweet and sour lemons, citron, the mamoon, marrow or mamee apple, the mango and delicious mangusteen of Java, the jack and the shaddock, the banana, the plantain, the calambolla, &c., &c. The last is a sub-acid fruit, of an oblong form and light straw colour, when ripe; it is deeply grooved or ridged with sharp edges and is very refreshing and agreeable to the taste. A beautiful arbour of a square form, having vacant openings in imitation of doors and windows, stands in the centre of the garden, furnished with a table; it is a place of great resort for pic-nic parties and is ascended by artificial steps, made of the green-sward.

The situation of Boto Fogo impresses every one who visits it, most agreeably—it is a delightful retreat from the hot and unwholesome air of the city and is, like the Praya Flamingo and the Gloria hill, the residence of many respectable foreigners. The little bay, fronting the pretty sandy beach, seems like a tranquil lake embossed in magnificent mountain-scenery. Having replenished our partially-exhausted stock of sea-stores, and the commodore being with the squadron at La Plata, we were compelled, reluctantly, to proceed to that place and set sail accordingly, on the twentieth of May. The situation of our squadron at La Plata, arose out of difficulties which existed between the Argentine Republic and that of the United States, consequent upon the unlawful and unfriendly capture of American vessels, sealing among the Falkland islands, by order of Vernet, the governor; and from the proper and spirited conduct of Captain Duncan, commander of the Lexington, in removing the colony to Montevideo, and thereby, most effectually cutting off all further depredations upon our commerce.

MONTEVIDEO.

We received the customary assistance of boats, from the various men of war, in towing the ship out of the harbour. As we passed the British line-of-battle ship Plantagenet, the band of musicians struck up our national air of “Hail Columbia.” On the thirtieth, we made St. Marys, being the northern cape at the entrance of the river. A brisk breeze the day following, accompanied with misty weather, wafted us, at midnight, within four miles of the isle of Flores, on which we found an excellent revolving light—and the weather clearing up, we saw the dull light which crowned the hill called Montevideo. Sail was then shortened to maintain our position until daylight; but in the course of three hours, a strong current running out of the river, had forced us into four and a half fathoms of water, on the edge of the English bank. We anchored, on the second of June, in the roadstead of Montevideo, near the United States’ ship Lexington. On the next morning, we again sailed, with a strong easterly gale, for Buenos Ayres, and at noon anchored in three and a half fathoms of water, off Pinta de India, in thick weather and a bad sea. In the afternoon, it became sufficiently clear for us to obtain a glimpse of the tops of some trees; sail was again made and on the fifth, we came too, in the outer Balissas, near to the United States’ ship Warren, under the command of Acting-Commodore Cooper, and the schooner Enterprise, commanded by Lieutenant-Commodore Downing. Having landed Mr. Baylies and family, and taken in provisions for our voyage across the South Atlantic and Indian oceans, we sailed on the nineteenth, and in four days arrived at Montevideo. As we passed to our anchorage ground, H. B. M. frigate Druid, A. R. Hamilton, commander, complimented our flag by her musicians playing “Hail Columbia,” which cheered our hearts and created a kindly feeling in us towards our English brethren. Many years previous to this visit to La Plata, I had resided many months at Buenos Ayres, and had become acquainted with a number of worthy men and lovely females, who then shone with great brilliancy at the Tertulias, in the Bolero and Pas-a-pie, but time had changed the faces and condition of the living—death had been busy among all classes and many a friend and acquaintance had gone to the eternal world, amidst the various revolutions. The splendid churches were shorn of their ornaments and a few solitary priests, superannuated and on the brink of the grave, were seen tottering through the desertedaisles and cloisters, where hundreds had once been, and where the resounding of my own footsteps now made me start, and look back to see if any of the departed had returned to wander within their former haunts, and deplore, though they were wont to be called holy, their numerous imperfections. A regal government has now given place to one of another stamp; but the great number of armed men in the streets and about the public buildings, have divested it of much of its republican character. A Protestant church is now erected, and English names are frequently seen over the doors of buildings where once a foreign merchant was not permitted to dwell. To me, it seemed like traversing a vast sepulchre—so many had closed their eyes in death, while others appeared like spectres of former days. It was like a city once in ruins, but which had been freed of its incumbrances, and was again ushered into light and life, peopled by a new generation.

Montevideo also had met with unparalleled sufferings from the time that it was besieged by the British to the present hour. The beautiful cathedral was disfigured by marks of cannon-balls—the walls were partly demolished—the gates broken down—the cannon removed, and not a solitary sentinel was on the lookout from the battlements; the streets were broken up, and full of unsightly and dangerous holes. Death, the all-consuming hand of time, and squalid poverty, had laid a whole city in ruins; it was like a vast cemetery; for all I once knew had been swept away; even their names had been obliterated for ever. I therefore left it, better satisfied to wander ten thousand miles over a trackless and stormy ocean, than to remain in a city whose former inhabitants were spread in dust amid its ruins.

SAILING FROM MONTEVIDEO—DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF TRISTAN D’ACUNHA—ST. PAULS—ENGANO—ARRIVAL AT BENCOOLEN AND DESCRIPTION.

Agreeably to orders from the navy department, the commander of the Peacock was required to proceed to the west coast of Sumatra, to ascertain whether Commodore Downes had obtained redress for the murders and robbery committed on board the ship Friendship, of Salem, by the natives of Qualah Battu; and if it should appear that from any cause such redress had not been effected, then the Peacock, in conjunction with the United States’ schooner Boxer, was to proceed to Qualah Battu, and, if possible, to obtain possession of the murderers, and transport them to the United States for trial; and also to demand indemnification for the heavy losses sustained by the owner. If these demands were not complied with, the town was to be destroyed.

The Boxer not having yet joined us, orders were left for her commander to proceed to Bencoolen, in the island of Sumatra. On the evening of the twenty-fifth of June, the ship got under way, from the bay of Montevideo. As we slowly receded from the port, the feeble light on the mount shone like a distant star through the hazy atmosphere; and the thousand lights in the unfortunate town of San Felipé appeared like the glimmerings of the firefly in a midsummer’s night, revelling amid the light vapours arising from marshy ground; the brilliant light on the Flores also was in full view, throwing its extended beams far and wide over the tremulous sea. Our progress during the night was very slow—Flores and Lobos, and the serrated mountains of Maldonado, found us at the dawn of day, fanning along slowly, with an air which scarcely ruffled the ocean’s surface. Nothing occurred to us beyond what generally befalls the sons of the ocean, in running down ten thousand miles of coasting. Scarcely were we clear from the muddy waters of La Plata, and had launched amid thewaves of the great Southern ocean, when squally weather assailed us, and close-reefed topsails were resorted to rather more frequently than is pleasant even to those who live upon the mountain-wave. The ship was at one time rolling her channels in before a strong westerly wind; at another, lying with her broadside deeply submerged by severe squalls from the northwestern quarter, the gun-deck being ankle-deep in water, and washing from side to side.Life-lineswere secured from gun to gun to support the constant passing of men fore and aft the deck. On the fifteenth of July, the snow-clad mountains of Tristan d’Acunha appeared, lighted by a brilliant morning-sun, and towering to a height estimated at between nine and ten thousand feet.

This island is occasionally resorted to for water, live stock, fruit, vegetables, butter, &c.; the former may be had in abundance on the northeast side, where, in a clear day, it may be seen rushing from above, white as the snow on the mountain-top, and dashing on the beach, from a cataract of fifty feet in height. Owing to the steepness of the anchorage-ground and the frequency of sudden squalls, it is most safe “to lay off and on,” and send a boat on shore. Vessels which prefer anchoring, run in until the watering-place bears southwest by south, about one mile distant, where they find seventeen fathoms, in a gravelly bottom, mixed with broken shells.

This place was originally settled in 1811, by the unfortunate Jonathan Lambert, of Salem, who was drowned in going to Inaccessible island. It has ever since been occupied by an English sergeant and family, from the Cape of Good Hope, by order of the British government, who took possession of it, as was said, with the ostensible motive of keeping it as an outpost to St. Helena, at the time of Bonaparte’s imprisonment there.

It may be doubted whether a desire to prevent the Americans from resorting to the island, as a place of rendezvous in the event of another war, was not the real motive which actuated the British to take it within their protection.

On the nineteenth, having then been out twenty-three days, we obtained soundings in sixty fathoms water, on bank Lagullus, off the Cape of Good Hope. Dashing onward through storm and tempest, endeavouring to keep about latitude 38° or 39°, on thesixth of August, forty-one days from our departure from the bay of Montevideo, we descried on the northeast the uninhabited island of St. Pauls. As we approached from the southward and westward, it bore the exact resemblance of a long-nosed porpoise; but when passing its eastern extremity, and bearing off about four miles north, it appeared like a spermaceti whale, the head being to the eastward: fronting it was a moderately-high conical peak: its highest point would scarcely exceed five hundred feet. Three or four days subsequently, we encountered a very heavy gale from northnortheast, accompanied by a tremendous swell of the ocean; during its violence, a sea of uncommon height and volume struck the ship, and threw her nearly on her beam ends, completely overwhelmed the gig in the starboard-quarter, crushed it into atoms in a moment, and buried the first three ratlines of the mizen-shrouds under water.

It was fortunate that we escaped without further danger, as it came thundering onward “mountains high.” A universal silence prevailed during its threatening approach: after it had passed, great apprehensions were expressed that it would “break on board,” and completely sweep the deck.

As we proceeded along and gradually made northings from longitude about 90° east, the winds began to be variable and the weather warm; greatcoats and peajackets disappeared from among the crew, and finally white duck trousers and shirts were alone seen. The southeast tradewind did not unequivocally set in until we had arrived in the latitude of 16°, and longitude 102°.

ENGANO—BENCOOLEN.

On the twenty-third of August we made the island of Engano, the southernmost of the chain of islands which runs parallel with the west coast of Sumatra, and which is inhabited by a vile race. From Engano, the winds were very light and variable from the southeast, accompanied with lightning, thunder, and rain, till the twenty-eighth, when we anchored in the bay of Bencoolen; about midway between the Ratones or Rat island and the point on which the Doosoon, or village of Bencoolen or Marlborough is situated, and about three and a half miles from either place.

This settlement was ceded by the English to the Dutch government, with all the British possessions in Sumatra, by the treaty of the Netherlands in 1824, in exchange for Malacca and the claims of the Dutch to the island of Singapore. Rat island basin isresorted to by vessels intending to remain some time, more particularly during the prevalence of the northwest gales from October to March; but coasting craft always resort there during the southeast winds, which last through the other half of the year.

A boat, with acting Lieutenant Sinclair, was despatched to the town, and in a short time a very polite invitation was received from J. H. Knoerle, Esq., the Dutch resident, to breakfast with him the next morning, and to Captain G. and myself to reside with him during the ship’s stay. By this boat we heard of the entire destruction of Qualah Battu, by the Potomac, which happily precluded the necessity of an unpleasant visit, and saved the officers and crew the painful duty which would otherwise have devolved on the Peacock. The demolition of this place struck terror into the inhabitants of all the native ports on the coast, and will doubtless produce a salutary effect.

RAT ISLAND.

In the afternoon, we took a boat, and landed at Rat island. Two acres of dry land would cover it; the coral reefs, which extend northward and southward, are very extensive and dangerous. The island contains four or five wretched huts, including a stone building now in a state of much dilapidation, and a godown or magazine at the building, which is open at the sides. In heavy westerly gales, the spray of the sea breaks over this speck in the ocean. Fish is the chief food of the inhabitants. The teeth of these islanders (possessed by few of them) are of a deep black colour, and show that they are frequently employed in chewing areca, &c. The chief man, called Rajah Mundo, is a Malay, about seventy years of age, but still active and healthy, with features so brown and deeply furrowed as to resemble a piece of soleleather. When we entered his abode, a stone building, it reminded me of Hogarth’s picture of the last day, when every thing has fallen into decay. The steps were nearly all broken down; one of the two wooden pillars which supported the portico was decayed, and had fallen; the roof was gone, and the walls were falling; two half-starved monkeys stood as sentries, at the door, having something which was intended as an apology for a tail. The other articles of furniture in this abode consisted of two Chama gigas, or the great giant clams, the root of a tree for seats, two broken earthen pots for cooking, and a joint of bamboo instead of a water-bucket, which latter served likewise the purpose of a drinking-vessel,as we found in asking for some water. The floor, apparently, had never been washed; the ceiling was of coal-black; and centipedes, lizards, and snails, were crawling in every direction over the walls. In the only dry corner, lay a sick daughter, between two mats; but the mother of the rajah formed the consummation of this dreadful picture: at the back door stood what I suppose must be called a human being. We started back in amazement on seeing this frightful object, thinking her to be deranged; the horror of Macbeth, on seeing his chair occupied in the banquet-scene, by the ghost of the murdered Banquo, could not have been surpassed by our own on this occasion. The words of the royal thane rushed upon my memory, and I instinctively uttered—

“Avaunt and quit my sight! let the earth hide thee:Thy bones are marrowless!Thou hast no speculation in those eyes.Which thou dost glare with.”

“Take any shape but that, and my firm nerves shall never tremble.”

The only article of dress on this singular being was a filthy, ragged waist-cloth, apparently covered with vermin, from the belt of which was suspended a long knife; her gray elf-locks scattered by the wind—her eyes running with rheum—her face and hands covered with dirt—her body loathsome with leprous spots; contrasted with her dark Malay skin, gave her a truly hideous appearance; added to this, a solitary long black tooth projected over her under lip, and her trembling and attenuated frame displayed the influence of that baneful narcotic, opium, to which she was addicted. Wretchedness could not portray a more faithful picture: imagination had nothing to conceive. We gladly left this loathsome habitation, upon a ramble about the coral reefs for shells, and shortly embarked for the ship, rejoiced at being removed from a horrid object, which long after haunted my imagination by night and day. I have since learned that she is a fiend in human shape, living by means the most diabolical.

BENCOOLEN—NUTMEGS.

The next morning we landed at Bencoolen, and found in waiting a neat carriage, in which we were conveyed into a handsome park, and subsequently to the government-house. Here we were received, at the lower end of a long staircase, by the resident, andushered up stairs into the great hall, through two lines of soldiers, as fierce in appearance as were ever exhibited on a stage: they consisted of Malays, Sumatrans, and Javanese, from Neas and Borneo, and from the bay of Bengal, turbaned, whiskered and mustachoed, and in some cases furnished with long beards, armed with swords, the cris or crooked dagger, pistols and muskets.

A most substantial breakfast was quickly served in great variety, and placed in the verandah, for the benefit of the air. With a cloudless sky above, the most beautiful scenery surrounding us, and a hospitable reception, we had nothing more to desire. The government house is situated in a park, embosomed in flowers, fruit, and forest-trees, guarded by line hedges and a neat bamboo fence. The road around the grounds was lined with the male and female nutmeg-trees, the clove-tree, and the graceful areca-palm, laden with its yellow fruit, hanging in large clusters under the branches. Here and there were interspersed beautiful flowering trees in great variety, and creeping plants intertwined among the branches. The female nutmeg was loaded with fruit resembling, in colour, a straw-coloured peach, but pointed slightly towards the stalk, like a pear. The fruit which had become ripe, had burst about half an inch of its outer-covering, and displayed a beautiful network of scarlet mace, covering a black shining hard thick shell, in which lay concealed the nutmeg itself. The bark of the nutmeg-tree is smooth, and of a brownish-gray colour; the branches are handsome and spreading; the leaves, elliptical and pointed, afford a very grateful aromatic odour: on the same tree may be seen the fruit in its progressive stages to maturity, and the white blossoms hanging in clusters, encircled by the yellow leaves from which they have burst. From the centre of the flower proceeds an oblong reddish knob, which is the fruit. I was told that a tree which produces, daily, throughout the year, one nutmeg, is considered very productive and profitable, even at the present low prices. At the Dutch company’s late sales, they brought from fifty-two to fifty-six dollars the pecul, equal to one hundred and thirty-three and one third pounds avoirdupois; and the mace, from ninety-two to ninety-five dollars. The male nutmeg-tree, being necessary to the propagation of the fruit, cannot be dispensed with; it is generally filled with white blossoms, and interspersed among its female companions. The operation of loosening the innershell of the nutmeg is a tedious process, and is performed over a slow fire; when the shells are sufficiently loose to rattle they are broken, assorted, soaked several times in water and lime—then placed in dry boxes or small rooms to sweat; and finally, are packed in dry chunana or lime made from seashells. The small and oblong fruit is not merchantable; the best kind is large, round, heavy and firm, of a lightish-gray colour on the outside; a strong fragrant smell; and when pricked, the oil should readily ooze out.

Very extensive plantations of this great article in commerce, are in the vicinity of Bencoolen. Those which belong to the Dutch government are twelve miles distant, on a fine road extending towards the mountains, about one hundred miles long. I visited some Parsees, who were busily employed in curing nutmegs and mace. Large quantities of the latter were spread on mats, exposed to the sun, where they remain to dry, from six to ten, and from four to six o’clock. The extreme heat of the day dries them too much and renders them brittle and deficient in fragrance; if placed in too moist an air they are subject to decay and will breed worms; they should be chosen fresh, tough, oleaginous, of an extremely fragrant smell and of a bright reddish-yellow. The rind of the nutmeg when not too dry, is preserved in sirup and the entire fruit, when nearly ripe, made into a delicious and ornamental sweetmeat; it is cut part of the way down, at regular intervals and fancifully ornamented by neat scollops, peaks, and leaves, showing at one view the straw-coloured outer-covering, the scarlet mace, and the inner black shell, covering the nucleus of the whole, the nutmeg.

Pepper, another article of export to a great extent, is cultivated throughout the island. It is propagated by cuttings or layers, as we raise grape-vines: if suffered to trail on the ground, it produces no fruit, and support is consequently necessary: it climbs from twelve to twenty feet high: the blossom is white; the berries, when at maturity, are red and much resemble branches of red currants. In a favourable season it produces two crops.

The only fortification which Bencoolen possesses, is at Fort Marlborough—it is in excellent order, and situated but a short distance from the landing-place. There are not more than fifty or sixty Dutch soldiers in the place. The town is built on a point of land named Onjong Carang: it is of moderate elevation—falls backinto low swampy ground, and is at times severely visited by that fatal disease, the jungle fever: the liver complaint is also very general. Bencoolen and the ten doosoons or villages, contain about eighteen thousand inhabitants, consisting of a few Dutch, some of the descendants of Englishmen, who speak the English language—Chinese, Javanese, Bengalees, Parsees, Sumatrans, Malays, &c. The Chinese occupy an enclosure in the centre of the town, and have a Budhist or temple: they bear the same characteristic marks here as elsewhere, being industrious, frugal, and thrifty. Each doosoon is governed by a rajah, who is chosen from among themselves, and if approved by the residents, he cannot lose his office during life, unless for the commission of some flagrant crime. The residents and a certain number of Rajahs form a court for the trial of all cases requiring legal investigation. If a criminal is condemned to suffer death, a copy of the trial is sent to the governor-general of Java, and if approved by him, the sentence is carried into execution. It is degrading to humanity to see the abject air with which the resident is addressed by the lower order of Sumatrans. They stand, when they enter his presence, with an aspect of humble submission: their bodies are bent—the palms of their hands are seen resting on their knees, and fear is strangely marked on their countenances.

The Dutch Government has two schools here—they are conducted upon the Lancasterian plan; the first, which is kept in an outer room of the government-house, contains about twenty-five scholars. The pupils were learning arithmetic, to write on sand, and to read from certain portions of the New Testament printed in the Malayan language. The translation was made and published, many years since, at the expense of the pious and well-known philanthropist, Robert Boyle, when the place was under the jurisdiction of the British Government, and was sent forth into various parts of the island. The second school is in the orphan-house, about a mile from the resident, on a piece of high ground sloping towards the bay, of which it has a fine view: in front of this building are several acres of land, substantially walled in with brick, and covered with fruit-trees and vegetables. The boys are educated in this school for agents, writers, &c. The principal articles of export from Bencoolen, to which may be added Trippany or Bichos do Mar, and some edible bird’s-nests, have already beennamed. Coffee and rice are raised here only in small quantities; they are imported from Padang for home-consumption, and consequently are not articles for export.

All the fruits common to tropical climates, and many which I am assured are not known in any other part of India, flourish here in great abundance. The animal used for domestic labour is the carbou, called here carboo: he resembles the buffalo without any hump between the fore-shoulders: although naturally of a dull, obstinate and capricious nature, he acquires a habit of surprising docility; at the command of his master, he lifts the shafts of the cart with his horns, places the half yoke (which is secured at the end) across his neck, and then stands quietly until he is secured.

I have several times been amused to see three or four children climbing on his neck, and seating themselves on his back, to take a ride. He was easily governed, after they were seated, by a rope which passed through the cartilage of the nose. He is a stout-built and strong animal, but cannot endure much fatigue, and has shorter legs and larger hoofs than the ox, with a thick sinewy neck. The horns of this animal are very large and generally turn backward, being nearly square at the base. Like the hog, he is fond of wallowing in the mire, and embraces every opportunity to cover himself with it—being thus cooled and protected from the heat of the sun, and from troublesome insects.

The bay of Bencoolen is extensive, and so much exposed that, when the sea-breeze commences, it throws in a heavy sea, and renders it impossible to carry off sufficient water for a large number of hands without causing a long delay. Owing to this cause, we were unable readily to obtain the required supply of water; and yams and bread-fruit being scarce, both of which we much needed, we took our departure, leaving instructions for the “Boxer” to follow us to Manila.

DEATH OF THE RESIDENT.

Having taken leave of the very kind and hospitable Mr. Knoerle, the resident, and of his companion, the Rev. W. C. Slingerland Conradi, pastor of the Dutch Church, I shortly found myself once more on board. I have lately received the afflicting intelligence that Mr. Knoerle, while on a journey to Palembang, was murdered at the instigation of some of the principal rajahs of Bencoolen. His body was literally cut in pieces, and then burnt with great exultation, by the perpetrators and their friends. The questionnaturally occurs, what could have incited the rajahs to commit so atrocious and fiend-like an act? The answer is—revenge, which is always deeply seated in the heart of a Malay.

Mr. Knoerle, imprudently, injured the happiness of many families by his unrestrained passions, and thereby sealed his horrid fate. He should ever have borne in mind that he lived among

“Souls made of fire, and children of the sun,With whom revenge is virtue.”

SAILING FROM BENCOOLEN—ARRIVAL AT CROKATOA AND FORSAKEN ISLANDS—SCENERY—BEAUTIFUL SUBMARINE GARDEN—BRITISH FRIGATE—ARRIVAL AT ANGIER—SAILING FROM ANGIER—BAY AND CITY OF MANILA—BUILDINGS—POPULATION—PROVISIONS—LABOUR.

On the last day of August, we weighed anchor at nine o’clock in the evening, from Bencoolen bay, and aided by the current and a land breeze, about midnight we once more found ourselves at sea. Owing to light head-winds from the southeast, calms, contrary winds, and violent squalls from the high mountains of Sumatra, accompanied with thunder and lightning, we did not arrive at our anchorage ground, off the north end of the island of Crokatoa, in the straits of Sunda, until the eighth day after our departure from the bay.

At daybreak the following morning, a boat was despatched in search of inhabitants, fresh water, and yams; but, after three or four hours’ search, returned unsuccessful. Two other boats were then sent under the command of the first lieutenant Mr. Cunningham: after a fruitless search, that officer returned at sunset, after visiting Long Island and Crokatoa. It was found difficult to effect a landing any where, owing to a heavy surf and to the coral having extended itself to a considerable distance from the shore. Hot springs only were found on the eastern side of the latter island, one hundred and fifty feet from the shore, boiling furiously up, through many fathoms of water. Early on the succeeding morning, Capt. Geissinger, Lieutenant Fowler of the marines, and myself, left the ship, on a visit to Forsaken island: we flattered ourselves, as we approached the island, that the grateful sound of many a murmuring rill, trickling down its steep and woody sides, was heard by us—but we also were doomed to disappointment; for, on landing, the sound was found to proceed from the singing of locusts,which had obtained undisturbed possession of the island, and were making sad ravages among the tender herbage. “No human footsteps marked the trackless sand.”

In reconnoitring between Forsaken and Crokatoa islands, we were struck with admiration at the great variety, both in form and colour, of an extensive and highly beautiful submarine garden, over which the boat was smoothly and slowly gliding. Corals of every shape and hue were there—some resembling sunflowers and mushrooms; others, cabbages from an inch to three feet in diameter: while a third bore a striking likeness to the rose.

“Some presentLarge growth of what may seem the sparkling trees,And shrubs of fairy land: while others shineConspicuous, and, in light apparel clad,And fledged with snowy feathers, nod superb.”

The water was clear as crystal; not the slightest breeze ruffled its glassy surface: the morning sun, having just freed the noble peak of Crokatoa from its misty covering, shone forth with unusual splendour; the sides of the hills, to their lofty summits, were clothed with all the variety of fruit, forest, and flowering trees common to intertropical climates: large flocks of parrots, shaking the dew of night from their downy pinions, were seen wending their way towards the palm-trees, in search of daily food; and monkeys in great variety were commencing their lively gambols amid the wild-mango and orange groves:—again, gazing in delighted wonder beneath us, we viewed the superb scene of plants and flowers of every description, glowing in vivid teints of purple, red, blue, brown, and green—equalling, in richness and variety, the gayest parterre. A variety of small fish, spotted, striped, and ringed, possessing every colour and shade, were sporting in these regions of unsurpassed brilliancy and beauty. It was, apparently, a great gala day; for they were revelling in great ease and luxury, playing all sorts of gambols in their bright sea-homes, unconscious of danger, and taking a full measure of enjoyment, in their unrivalled retreats. That nothing might be wanting to complete this gay scene of Nature’s own choosing, shells of great variety and shelves of coral, possessing every variety in colour, studded the bottom; the superb Harpa, with its ribbed sides and straw-coloured dress, slightly tinged with red and black; the Cyprea or Cowry ofalmost every variety, covered with an epidermis or thin membrane to protect its highly-polished surface; and many others, which might rival the most delicate porcelain in whiteness and smoothness: there lay the warlike Chiton, encased in his black coat-of-mail, ready for battle, or adhering to the shell of a large Triton—the latter having closed the entrance to his castle by a thick marble valve, which Nature had provided as a protection against an enemy, or a barrier against the rough beatings of a boisterous sea. Above, beneath, around us—all was in harmony.

A solemn stillness—broken only occasionally by the diving of a huge turtle, the harsh note of the wild seabird, the singing of locusts, or the shrill cry of the tiger-cat—reigned every where in the narrow strait which separates the two islands. Disappointed in receiving the so-much-needed supply of water and provisions, we weighed anchor the same evening for Angier, in Java, and before daybreak, came to in its roadstead. On our passage across, about midnight, we observed a large ship bearing down for us. Immediately all hands were piped to quarters—the battle-lanterns lit, fore and aft—the gun-deck cleared of hammocks—the two-and-thirties loaded with round and grape shot, and run out—the slow matches lighted and placed in their tubs—the marines ranged along the quarter-deck, and the powder boys stationed from the magazine to the gun-deck—the surgeons in the cockpit were displaying a fearful array of bandages; and in five minutes the ship was ready for action. As the vessel neared us, we found her to be no enemy, but his Britannic majesty’s ship Magicienne, from Batavia, bound to Bengal. So we parted as we met—friends. May we never meet as enemies!

VISIT OF THE JAVANESE.

Day had scarcely made its appearance, ere the ship was surrounded with Javanese canoes of all sizes, having outriggers to prevent their oversetting, bringing fruits and vegetables, fowls, eggs, goats, musk-deer, civet-cats, coloured and green doves; monkeys in great variety; parrots, Java sparrows, having slate-coloured plumage and pink bills, hats, shells, &c., for sale. Their strange mode of speaking the English language, afforded much amusement to the whole crew: “Capetan, you buy me fowl? Ib gotty fivety ten fowl, Capetan, he be great biggy one; you buy Japa sparrow? Ib got uby, uby, yam, yam, plenty, plenty, bery good; egg fowl, Capetan; fowl egg, Capetan, he be largy one,biggy, biggy, all same as dat larangy, (pointing to a basket of oranges,) I gib you Capetan, one hundred, five, ten, egg, (meaning one hundred and fifteen,) sposey Capetan you gib me one dollar and one quart;” (one dollar and a quarter.)

All this was spoken with great rapidity and amid forcible gesticulations. They were not at all abashed in asking a double price for their articles, and stale eggs; the latter, they always endeavoured to impose on us as new and fresh. The greatest curiosity I have yet met with, is the musk-deer; it is in height nine and a half inches, and twenty inches in length, from the top of the nose to the tail; has large protruding round eyes, moderate-sized ears and a sleek, grayish, dun-coloured coat, with beautiful slender legs and small hoofs. In its shape it is a perfect deer, but has no horns. I have, at times, seen this animal possessed of two scythe-shaped teeth, projecting from the upper jaw and placed near the extremity of the mouth, pointing recurvated backward. When irritated it would cut deeply with them and strike with great rapidity.

No covering beyond that of a waistcloth, was worn by the Javanese boatmen, and but an additional breastcloth, by the females. An odd-looking hat, which is in general use throughout the eastern seas, is worn by both sexes; it is made of bamboo or palm-leaf, is impervious to water, and may be likened to an old-fashioned painted dishcover, divested of its brim. Both sexes chewed the areca-root to excess, and were much disappointed that we could not supply them with opium, though the penalty inflicted on them for its purchase, is slavery for life. We paid a visit to Mr. Vogel, the commander of the Dutch fort, and met with a very hospitable reception.

MARRIAGE CEREMONY.

The Camprongoe village of Angier contains about fourteen hundred inhabitants, composed almost entirely of Javanese and Malays; it is built on low ground, verging on a swamp, in the midst of palm-trees. The houses, excepting perhaps a dozen, are of bamboo, roofed with palm-leaf, and enclosed by a slight paling of wood. A bamboo bridge, thrown across a ditch, conducted us to a very neat fortification; the parade-ground on each side being shaded by rows of trees and having a very pretty garden tastefully laid out and full of flowers, in front of the commandant’s house. During the two days which we remained, a marriage-festivalwas in progress; when the seven days of public rejoicing were finished the parties were to be united. These festivals only take place among the children of the rajahs, or very rich men. Every person who chooses to join the procession, is feasted at a house provided for that purpose, during the festival. Were it not for the presents of rice, bullocks, &c., sent by the friends of the betrothed, the expense would be too burdensome; as many hundreds attend, even from the neighbouring villages.

The procession consisted of ladies and gentlemen, seated in separate carts, persons on horseback and on foot, dressed in the gayest habiliments which they could procure, carrying a great number of flags of various colours and devices; and children dressed in yellow satin trousers, their faces painted yellow, with large curved eyebrows and fantastical caps. Great numbers of noisy instruments accompanied the motley group, and the whole village was in an uproar, which ended only with the setting sun. As we were passing the house of feasting, a servant was sent out to solicit the honour of our company; we entered the premises through two bands of musicians, who played on about thirty instruments, which being struck by small hammers, made a tinkling sound.

The master of the ceremonies received us with great politeness and with much ceremony; he was habited in a robe of crimson, figured with velvet, having a silk scarf thrown over his shoulders, and wearing a turban; his teeth were of a deep black, owing to his excessive use of areca and phunam, and his lips and gums were of a livid hue. Scarcely were we seated, at a table set apart for our own use, in the midst of many hundred hungry native revellers, ere twenty-seven dishes, composed chiefly of sweetmeats, (there not being a particle of meat or fish,) were upon the table. After tasting a little of each, to show that we were gratified with thewholeentertainment, and partaking of a cup of tea, we took our leave; areca was offered, as is customary, on our entry and departure. During the repast, four Javanese stepped out between the orchestra and danced for our amusement; their movements were slow, but very graceful, the head looking downward, and the arms as much in motion as the feet; the former being extended occasionally rather above the head, and the palms being generally opened outward and placed in every position, excepting that of closing or clenching.

Two well-constructed piers at this place, running out from a shallow creek, make a convenient harbour for small-craft, and near its upper part, is an excellent place for procuring water, which is obtained by a simple and expeditious process: a hose is connected with casks in a boat beneath, the latter are filled in a few minutes, so that in twenty-four hours the ship obtained twelve thousand gallons of water.

Yams, sweet-potatoes, goats, fowls, and fruit were purchased in abundance, but neitherflourorbreadcould be obtained. Several monkeys were purchased by the crew at Angiers. After the ship had weighed anchor a female animal of this tribe, having a young one clinging closely to the under part of her body, broke loose, ran with great swiftness to the end of the spankerboom, and plunged into the sea; a Javanese boat, towing astern, took them in; but not in time to save the life of the younger; the female was then secured but refused to eat, and remained till next morning in a state of melancholy. Believing the animal would die, she was unloosed and running with great precipitancy to the end of the boom, looked into the sea; but not finding the object of her solicitude there, she looked overboard, from every part of the ship, moaning most piteously. About this time, she observed a small gray monkey, differing in species from herself, having a very long tail; she at once seized the latter and hugged it with great, seeming delight. The attempt to remove it from her would have been in vain, had any one been disposed to make the trial; when any of the sailors or the monkeys approached her, she would hug her new object of affection with greater tenacity, run out her head, pout disdainfully, and show a formidable row of white ivory; chattering and scolding, at the same time most vehemently; occasionally she would allow it to wander a few steps, holding on by the tip of the tail, during the time; when too far, she would pull it backward, but if it attempted to go beyond the length of its leading-string, (the tail,) she would quickly drag it to her, box its ears, closely embrace it, and after being reconciled, would feed it with some dainty morsel, stowed away in her pouch.

On a cold, stormy day, during our passage from La Plata to Sumatra, the gun-deck being deluged with water, a Porto Praya monkey, a favourite of mine, came to the cabin-door, and in its most expressive manner solicited permission to enter; it stood shiveringin the doorway, dripping with saltwater, and looking the picture of distress, at the same time snuffing up the warm air, proceeding from a stove; I called it in, at length; the first object of its attention was the stove, (never having seen one before,) but approaching too near, it slightly burnt its nose, and quickly retreated, looking with much astonishment at the cause; finally it sprung to the top of the table and skipping about from one place to another, unfortunately alighted on the stove, where it danced for a second or two, jumped precipitately down, and came to me, showing its paws, (which were scorched white,) and apparently asking for relief. I rubbed them with oil, at which the animal appeared to be relieved; it then quietly took its station as close to me as possible, testifying unquestionably, as much silent gratitude as any human being could have done in a similar situation.

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