Selim Capitan communicated to me, in confidence, that the French heroes want to visit Mount Korèk, here from the left shore, and that Arnaud has applied for an escort of ten soldiers. This intended excursion had been kept secret from me; either I was considered too weak, as perhaps really was the case or no German witnesses were wished to oppose, as they very certainly would have done, any future charlatanry. I had full satisfaction, however, when I recommended, in presence of Arnaud, a visit to the iron-mines of Korèk as being perfectly necessary. The crafty Selim Capitan said, that he had spoken to Suliman Kashef, and that a hundred chosen men, as an escort, were placed at disposal for this laudable visit. This offer of increased protection produced a peculiar effect in Arnaud’s countenance, and he muttered a curse between his teeth, although I declared that I could not be of the party.
What I said was meant in earnest, for I must have been carried, owing to the want of beasts of burden; and besides, I did not dare at all to expose my worthy head to the sun’s rays, because, from having remained under it, I had still the feeling as if my hair stood erect, like a conductor of caloric, by every single ray. Mount Korèk will, therefore, for the present, not be explored by me.
I must take advantage of this opportunity to mention a circumstance which may explain my not very great friendship for Arnaud, abstractedly from his general arrogance. Selim Capitan confirmed what the merchant Olivi had communicated to me in Khartùm. My fellow-travellers, in order to make themselves secure against any control, had determined, under the presidency of Vaissière,not to mention my worthy name at all in their journals. But the honest Vaissière had, at the same time, another plan, which was no other than toexcludeme from the expedition. He himself offered to provide the biscuit necessary for me and my three servants. This proposal was the more acceptable to me, because all the baking-ovens of Khartùm had been taken possession of by the Government, to provide for the crew of the expedition.
The biscuit arrived safely the day before our departure at my house, just as Doctor Count de Domine, having returned from Kordofàn, was present. Without further investigation, I took the contents and weight to be correct, but my Italian friend thought that Vaissière was a great “baron fututto,” and opened a sack, from which an excellent biscuit peeped forth smilingly. This, however, did not convince him long; I was obliged to order Fadl, who wasstanding by, to shake out the bag, and then a peal of laughter resounded on every side. Only the uppermost part of the sack was laid over with good biscuit, the lower part being full of spoiled and mouldy ones. The very same result followed with the other sacks.
Armed with my heavy iron stick, I immediately ran along the side of the water to the divan of Vaissière, where I found all the Frenchmen assembled. I said plainly that he wished to force me, by this rascally deception, to desist from the voyage after one or two days’ further progress. In conclusion, I called him a slave-dealer, whose cross of the legion of honour I would tear off; and when he talked of being an officer, and “honour!” I called him a cowardly rascal. None of the Europeans spoke a word in his defence; and I was able to retreat through the numerous attendants, who feared my iron club as well as the Basha; and I went to the governor, who gave orders that the needful biscuit should be provided me from the shune.
Once again, before my departure, Vaissière and I stood suddenly, man to man, on a narrow path by the Blue Nile, where, from fear, because he had not challenged me, or lest I should push him into the water, he only stammered out the words, “Wife and children!” In these countries one must either let oneself be trod under foot, and be able to turn and cringe, or must step forward, like a man in his natural state, breast to breast.
29th January.—Before sunrise we hoist the anchor from the middle of the river, where we had halted for safety during the night, and set sail in a northern direction. Some elephant-trees, with thick foliage,and two villages, are on the left side of the shore, and a shallow long isle, like all the islands of this region. On the right Mount Pelenja, as well as an isle, which another larger one immediately follows. We see two magnificent broad-leaved acacia-trees, to which several more of these beautiful round-headed trees join on directly, and habitations right and left. The sun rises behind clouds. We row E.N.E., and then E. by N. The right shore forms a long durra-field; in its neighbourhood we get aground, and in spite of every exertion, remain fixed until half past nine o’clock. The strong north wind drives our vessel about in all directions, and the tired rowers are no match for my bold countryman. At half past ten o’clock we arrive, in an easterly direction, at the shallow island, separated from the right shore by a narrow arm of the Nile, and lying on a level with it. This island, planted with durra, is the very same one where King Làkono first visited us.
We have the other vessels ahead, waiting for us, and we come up to them at eleven o’clock, with great difficulty; for the men can display but little vigour at the rope in the water. The negroes of the right shore pursue us with several bundles of wood, to sell to us. Feïzulla Capitan is ashamed to make his report, on account of his long delay, and therefore lies down to sleep. We cast anchor also in the middle of the river; for we trust the natives no longer, and fear the wrath of the great Matta.
King Làkono sits on the shore in the centre of his people, who are standing around him; his favourite wife is also standing, and only one of his brothers is sitting near him. I now hear that Làkono hadasked Selim Capitan for a musket to shoot the cannibals. The latter feared that the Tubal Cain of Bari might establish a manufactory of guns, and then come as a great conqueror to Sennaar, and therefore flatly refused him. On this account his Majesty is angry, and will not come on board. I am particularly sorry that he does not take leave of us, for I had noted down several questions which I should like to ask him. A drummer close to him is beating very skilfully, from time to time, on his long wooden kettle-drum, and answers quite doughtily the roll of one of our drummers. Another is blowing a wooden trumpet, in which the mouth-piece, or the hole at the upper end, is like that of a flute. They have also a twisted antelope’s horn, from which they manage to elicit several notes.
Notwithstanding the violent north wind, we set out again at half-past one o’clock, without even thinking of a visit of reconciliation to Làkono. What can the man think of us now? We who have got so many weapons, spears, bows, and clubs, from his people, and who certainly, in his eyes, have equally as many guns, do not give him even a single musket! We row at first, but soon tiring of this work, the vessels are allowed to drift with the stream, “Allah kerim,” and be tossed by the wind wherever it may drive them. We therefore knock one against the other, run towards the shore, and go, to my extreme anger, down the river with the stern foremost instead of the bow. This does not seem to Feïzulla Capitan to be any disgrace. To the right shore a shallow island, partly cultivated, and having, at the extremity of its foot, a little village. Another, upon which areseveral cows, who have only to thank the strong wind that we did not carry away some of them, stretches far downwards for nearly an hour.
Here I must express my surmise that the natives cultivate cotton, although not, perhaps, in large quantities. On the island of Tshanker I had seen already cotton offered for sale, without its existence being a matter of surprise to me; for I had previously met with it in the forests on the White Stream, growing wild. I am in possession even of a specimen of the cotton of this country, and know now how to explain from what the rahàt is made, which I got on that island. I was sitting once on the island of Tshanker, and sketching, when a young woman stationed herself at some distance, and pointed to her neck, which she wished to adorn with beads. I presented her with some to look at, and gave her to understand by dumb-show, that I wanted to have her thread apron for them. When I stepped nearer, however, to make the thing more intelligible to the woman, she drew back timidly. I therefore beckoned to Fadl, because he has more patience, and a darker colour, which must inspire greater confidence. She was no longer afraid when he came, but stopped and gave her consent to the sale by signs, although the men standing in the neighbourhood threatened her by elevating their spears. She motioned to Fadl to remain where he was, ran away, and soon returned with a leathern apron, which she had fetched from behind a rock, whereon men were standing.
Without troubling herself further about their threatening attitudes and words, she waded, with a true contempt of death, up to her breast in thewater, and came out again with the rahàt in her hand, and the leathern apron round her loins. She still paid no regard to the continued threatening motions of the men, but gave the rahàt over to Fadl, took the few beads, and ran away in the greatest joy. This rahàt was twisted together very artistically of cotton threads, shaped, as I have already related, and coloured red with ochre.
Four o’clock. Our course which, judging from the situation of the mountains, had been north-westerly since half-past one o’clock, now changes,—without, however, our being able to define it distinctly. Half-past five o’clock. This is the first moment that we can say we are going N. by E. These things must be experienced: to be ill with Turks—to make campaigns and journeys with Turks—and to undertake a voyage of discovery on the White Stream with such a fleet!
The vessels, according to their different sizes, ran on the sand-bank; first forwards, then backwards,—now right, now left. To navigate with the stern foremost is the favourite custom; the sparks of the fire fall through the open hatchway, before the half-broken door of the powder-room, and whizz in the water of the lower hold! At last, by energetic threats, I wake Feïzulla Capitan from his dreadful apathy. The fire is extinguished, and the stern of the vessel, after a great deal of talking about the disgrace to a naval officer educated in England, turned to the proper direction, with the assistance of the oars.
I saw five large and small islands, but whether they lie nearest to the right or to the left shore, I know aslittle as upon what shore the isolated villages and tokuls stand. It was really enough to drive one mad to see the sailors so often apply themselves to the oars when the wind had turned the vessel, which they regard as a piece of floating wood, towards the mountains. I shall, at last, be confused myself in such a disgusting hurly-burly. Six o’clock. On the left, a little island; soon afterwards, on the right, a larger one, separated from the right shore by a narrow arm. Then a village, close upon the same shore, pleasingly enlivened by men and cows, immediately appears. Single trees extend behind it, and give a picturesque effect to the whole. On the left, our old acquaintance, Mount Nerkanjin, steps forward again, and surpasses, at least, considerably in height, the mountains lying nearer. At half-past six o’clock we go to the N., with small deviations to one side or the other, and come to three islands, following close behind one another, along the right shore, and anchor, when it becomes dark, before seven o’clock, below the last one.
30th January.—A very strong wind all night; the vessels lying awkwardly near each other, beat their heads and knock their ribs together, so that it was quite pleasant to behold it. Every one slept and snored around me, and I also would not allow myself to be disturbed any more, and did not wake the capitan; but looked, however, twice through the open hatchway into the hold, to see if the water were increasing. This morning there was only one vessel at the anchorage; all the others were scattered far and wide down the river. Immediately after sunrise we set out towards N. On the right a wood extends;on the left, solitary beautiful trees rise; but few people are to be seen.
Two little islands are at the right shore; the one lying deeper rises from the water like an elevated green shield. The beautiful forest of the right side condensates and strengthens; on the left, also, the trees approach closer together. The country rises here, and we look far over the left shore into the land, as into an orchard, with villages. We halt at the shield-island, on the sand, and look around us for another water-track. With much difficulty we work through between the green reed island and another one, and land at our old little isle, where we made the acquaintance of the chief Nalewadtshòhn on the 22nd January. We had half an hour’s barter; then we push off, and navigate with the bow of our vessel directed towards the first of the two islands lying one behind the other, at the left shore, as if we would have caused there an earthquake. The vessel turns, and we go now again with the stern forward, as generally happens upon the Nile, in order to let the vessels drift free from danger, for the helm then becomes the scenting-nose of the shallows, and stops also, in fact, on them.
About eight o’clock we halt at the left shore. I get here a harpoon among other curiosities of the country. Unfortunately, we now hurry through this beautiful region without taking any further notice of the land or the people; for the want of sufficient water-course, and the ignorance of it, drives us to make as much haste as possible to the friendly Elliàbs, where we intend to stop and caulk the vessels. I have never remarked persons lying ill, and diseases maybe generally rare among these people of nature; when they do come on, perhaps they are mostly fatal. At nine o’clock we are off again, and have, immediately on our right, two little green islands, and a village on the shore. Another entanglement of vessels, so that it is a complete disgrace!
The water, pouring out vigorously from a gohr of the right shore, is muddy, and appears to come from a lake, the water of which is let off for the sake of catching fish. On the left a green island, with high reeds; on the right a wood, wherein there are several bare and withered trees. The land appears here to be quite uncultivated. Our vessel at last goes again properly, for Selim Capitan, whom the other vessels are trying to keep in sight, outstrips us by the stroke of the oars. The reed-island is followed by another one after some paces. The shores are arid on both sides; we cannot look over them at the scenery beyond, because the water is considerably lower than when we ascended. In the middle of the river a narrow island, green with reeds, behind which, on the right shore, a large village is remarked, with broad tokuls, as well as herds of cows at the water. These tokuls are open behind, and the young cattle appear to be penned in them. Down at the village another island lies, of about a quarter of an hour in length. On the right and left, scanty wood is developing itself thickly behind the shores. An islet, of three to four paces broad, and twelve to fifteen long, has planted itself here boldly in the river. Either this island is quite new, and will increase in time, or it is the remains of an old one. Immediately behind, an elevated green shield floats again towards us. We navigateat the right shore to N.E., and shall go again soon to N.
The beauty of the country has unfortunately again descended to the old uniformity, with the horizontal position of the flat country; before us lies an island like a Delta; it is already partly dry, and we pass by its left side. But stop! Every one fetches up, and we shall be obliged perhaps to work over to the right side. Ten o’clock, N. by E.; we row bravely against the N.E. wind. The shores of the stream are flat and low; by the sand lying thereon, we see that the river at its side flows over them. An arid island at the left shore is divided by a dry gohr. On the right, a village is suddenly disclosed, with broad tokuls, and negroes expecting treasures. Upon the island, also, they stride stoutly in close to the ships, but no beads are handed to them. The men of the oxen-village point to their herds, but their benevolent offer is in vain.
We remark, as usual, among the light-coloured cows, many quite white, and few black or dapple. The bulls have the customary high and thick hump; the cows, on the contrary, have exactly the appearance of those at Emmerich on the Rhine; their horns are twisted in a surprisingly handsome form, and set off with flaky hair, as well as the ears. They carry the latter erect, by which means the head, and the lively eye, acquire a brisk and intelligent expression. We have an island of about a quarter of an hour in length at our right; the oars rest in consequence of a stronger current, and we go N.E. Half past eleven o’clock. On the left a green island, of the length of half an hour, before which we again get aground,without our intellectual commanders being disturbed by it. We stop at the right shore, to make our midday halt, but Suliman Kashef pushes off again, although he is the man who takes most care about the distribution of the meat, and we others follow amidst the murmurs of the crew.
After we had left on our right two islands, we halt at the foot of the second one, at about three o’clock, with the same intention. The shallow island is only elevated a little above the level of the water, of a sandy nature, but full of a species of large and small grass, conclusive of the splendid pastures of the surrounding country, of which the herds afford the best proof. We navigate further, and have immediately a small island on our right. For amusement we go awhile upon the sand, soon get off again, and have on the left another island with shallow sand-heads at the side. The whole left shore lies flat, and makes its appearance beautifully wooded; over it Mount Nerkanjin, concealed in mist and by the distance, rises to the west. I take leave of it and of all the mountains, which are so delightful to my heart, and have contributed so much to my convalescence by their fresh air, and by bringing before me pictures of home. We go to the north. A poor little hamlet, surrounded and shaded by trees, on the left shore. Right and left the vessels squat, and accident alone makes us take the middle road. At the right, two small islands, distinguished, as usual here, by nothing except their succulent grass or reeds. Yet our vessel, proud at the start already gained, goes smack on the flat left shore, as if Nature did not shew shallows there to the most inexperienced mariner. One shock, and—we stick fast. Once more tokulspeep through the trees of the left shore at some distance; negroes are collecting on the shore.
We are navigating through a tract of countries, touching whose original formation and populations we exhaust ourselves in fruitless conjectures. Monuments do not tell us, history is silent, and the annals of the people live only in meagre traditions, which may possibly extend to two or three generations. We could not learn any thing even of these, and the past is repeated in a perpetual present. We throw a sorrowful glance at the youth of these nations, and do not understand how it happens that a people could always remainyoung.
The other vessels pass us, whilst we are calling, “Eh lissa!” Most of the men are only seemingly exerting themselves in the water, to hoist the vessel, without answering the Abu Hashis passing by and mocking at us. The natives must love the shade, for they remain with their wives under the trees. The shaven heads, and mostly turned in noses of the latter seem to do homage to the principle of beauty being in man. If this decided type of the feminine formation of countenance afford the plastic proof of the primitive natural distinction of the sexes, then not woman, but man, stands here as the master-piece of Nature, similar to what is generally the case in the animal creation. Woman is the weaker being in such a state of nature as this,—the beast of burden, in whom the germ for the improvement of the character is suppressed, though it must be considered as her inalienable birthright.
After a quarter of an hour, we work ourselves off, and row, as fast as our bodies, dripping with perspiration,will allow us, in order to gain a deeper water-course. On the left we notice a forest-hamlet, and on the right an island, which is a quarter of an hour in length. Another island ends, the upper part of which I had not remarked. A long bright water-basin, from the back ground of which two little islands, like green hills, cheerfully look up, stretches before us in N.N.E. The negroes dance and jump no more; they stand melancholy on the shore, because they lose their glass-bead men.
Half-past three o’clock. After the lapse of some minutes we navigate through a narrow canal, and leave the broad water on our right behind the island close to us. At the end of this island we first drive furiously against the shore, and then against another vessel, so that there is cracking and breaking aloft, and a flood of curses discharged. The men jump into the water, bawl, and make a row on all sides, to push the vessels off the sand. We get loose, have an island immediately before us, and try to go into the narrow arm, which separates it from the right shore. The island is covered over and over with luxuriant creeping beans, and is half an hour long. Some of the vessels try their luck on the other side of the island. A number of goats and sheep are pasturing there, and among the latter, rams with horns twisted back, and manes. We keep the main direction of the river, N.N.E., but there is neither direction nor order among the vessels, “Allah kerim!”
A beautiful verdant island below seems to wish to block up our road. Suddenly a second island appears at our side, separated from the former one by only fifty paces of water. We stop at it, because mostof the vessels have taken the deceptive broad path, and got upon the sand. The current is strong here, and amounts to two miles. Although our men are at home on the Nile, yet they have no idea at all that where there are precipitous broken shores, and where the shoot of the water falls, there, on the average, the greater depth is to be found.
Suliman Kashef’s beautiful slave has hitherto not yet come out of her narrow back cabin, often as I have begged him to let her. O thou land of the East and jealousy! An unexpected emancipation of the eastern wives and maidens would give an extremely surprising result, judging from analogy with all the circumstances occurring in the hárims, notwithstanding the trifling grade of cultivation, in which these beautiful domestic animals stand, and their quaint notions of thehonestum atque decorum.
Four o’clock.—The last island, where we stopped only a short time, and repaired in some measure our broken helm, is immediately followed by two islands, lying close to one another, the nearest of which extends a long way. It is covered with much larger tobacco plantations than we have been accustomed hitherto to see. A hedge defends it against the beasts of the water, and over the young plants reed-roofs have been placed to protect them against the heat of the sun. But what we had not hitherto seen, is a little watchhouse raised on stakes, from which the field-guard peeps out;—a police establishment, which might be placed here more on account of human beings than of beasts.
We leave those islands, as well as the two small reed-islands previously named, together with thebroad water at the left, for another island of an hour in length joins on to the latter one, and promises a deeper water-course. The steeply broken shores of these islands, like those of the right side of the river, are stratified in horizontal layers, which consist of mould, sand, and a reddish-coloured substratum of iron-ochre. We go here with the right shore to E. A broad gohr comes into the river from the right side: therefore, what I just now called a right shore, is taken for a large island, the head of which, however, no one pretends to have seen. At last, we again advance, although not for any length of time, in a bed of the stream destitute of islands, and from pure magnanimity we order the oars to rest, so as not to stave in the ribs of another vessel. On the right, a village and some scattered tokuls under the trees. We make a bend to N.N.E. The right shore is thickly covered with trees, but there appears to be little shade there except under the solitary trees having broad boughs. On the left shore are seen, on the contrary, few trees, and the real forest may be further up the country.
Six villages are observed from the deck on the right, and three villages on the left shore. Before us, to N.E., rises a small mountain, to which we perhaps shall approach still closer, for it was not remarked previously in our ascent. On the shore, we have right and left a village; at the left side two more villages immediately follow. From the deck we see here seven other villages; to the right, in the forest, a large village, and closer to us a small one on the shore, whilst on the left again, other tokul-tops peep forth beyond the shore. Solitary huts arescattered on all sides, and the country seems to be extraordinarily populous. Nevertheless, we remark very few people; the others may be employed somewhere in the interior harvesting, catching fish, or elephant-hunting; or state affairs, perhaps, keep them back.
Five o’clock.—To N. On the left a little hamlet, with tokul-roofs, which stand on short stakes, and may be used perhaps only for the cattle during the rainy season. The small tokuls raised on stakes serve partly as sleeping-places, partly as store-houses; these are seen in every village on the White River. Half-past five o’clock. At the left we see the end of an island, which must be very large, for it goes up, at least, to the last-named island, and may run behind it to the left shore. On the left there are three villages, but the trees have entirely disappeared. On the right five villages, and then a large and small island; behind them a sixth village. The river makes a beautiful bend at this place from N.N.E. to N. Splendid large shady trees stand out like giants over the other part of the forest, and from deck we perceive a hamlet under them, and also two villages at some distance from the left shore. The Haba, properly speaking, displays itself here of a blue colour in the distance, extending from W. to N., whither we let ourselves be drifted also by the tranquil river.
A large herd of cows comes down to drink at the stream, but we pass proudly by, and the Arabian children do not murmur because they are going to their dear home.
The report that the nations below had blocked upthe river to cut off our retreat, having turned out unfounded, may likewise have contributed to this unusual contentment. I remarked evidently how glad they were that no crowds of natives were collected at the numerous villages, near which we were so often beneaped. On the right, the end of an island displays itself; this, at all events, therefore extends behind the upper island of the right shore. Over two little islands we see, on the right side, the tops of several tokuls. At sunset we go from N.N.W., in another bend to E. A long water-line spreads before us, whilst the river bends to right and left; we accommodate ourselves again slowly to rowing.
Half-past six o’clock. At both sides two long islands end, their commencement having been concealed from us by others. Near the pastoral village, on the left side, we hear the cattle and sheep returning home, and see the smoke widely extended, as a protection against the gnats, for their nightly rest. That is much too inviting! Near a small green island, in the centre of the stream, which spreads here majestically like a lake, we cast anchor, and the vessel turns its bow towards the west, to Mount Nerkanjin, the outlines of which stand out only faintly from the darkening sky. It is a lovely evening.
RIVER BUFFALOES. — COMICAL APPEARANCE OF THE NATIVES. — WILLOWS. — SPECIES OF STRAND-SNIPES. — MODESTY OF THE WOMEN, AND THEIR APRONS. — THE LIÈNNS. — ORNAMENTS OF THIS TRIBE: THEIR TOKULS. — THE SERIBA OR ENCLOSURE TO THE HUTS. — ENORMOUS ELEPHANT’S TOOTH. — LUXURIANCE OF THE SOIL. — THE COUNTRY OF BAMBER. — DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES. — MANNER OF CATCHING ELEPHANTS. — ROYAL CRANES. — SPLENDID BARTER. — TRIBE OF THE BUKOS. — STOICISM OF AN OLD NATIVE. — SLAVES. — HIPPOPOTAMI AND CROCODILES. — THE TSHIÈRRS. — THE ELLIÀBS AND BÒHRS. — DESCRIPTION OF THE FORMER TRIBE: THEIR WAR-DANCE.
31st January.—Before sunrise we set out, and had 20° Reaumur; yesterday and the day before, 19°. We had scarcely advanced three paces, when we stuck fast on the sand, because the crew wanted to let themselves be drifted at their ease. We therefore row out of the lake-like bay to N.N.E. Men and women stand smoking on the shore, and offer their pipes and other effects, but all their signs and calling are in vain, and the fear is general that the river may be too shallow. The stream issues broadly from the left side behind an island, to which a smaller one joins itself. Eight hippopotami are enjoying themselves in the space between the two islands. Their enormous heads have the closest similarity, at some distance, to those of buffaloes, only they are larger, and have no horns, and therefore the Arabic expression Gamùss el Bah’r (river buffalo) appears more suitablethan that of hippopotamus. The name of G’zint is little used here, although it may be the ancient indigenous one.
Whilst we are going at half-past six o’clock, N.N.W., we observe on the right, also, a Nile arm to N.E. On the left a summer village, and sleeping places, with reed walls, and small tokuls, running quite to a point, and funnel-shaped, with plastered walls. On the right, two hamlets, and on the left a reed islet; before it a broad arm enters the land to W., and seems to form a large island, for we go here N. by E. The stream, which had narrowed previously to four hundred paces, loses little of its breadth by these means. Before us floats again a green little reed-island; we leave it at our right. The forest has again retreated, and on the left, also, there is nothing seen above the ground, except here and there the top of a tree. The shores are arid, and very refreshing is the large tree on the right, with its horizontally twisted boughs, like an isolated gigantic oak, behind which the house-tops of a large village peep forth.
A number of ash-grey men set themselves to race us on the right shore from a little village; they fife, sing, and clap their hands, dance and jump, especially the young ones. On the left also the flat sand-shore is covered with ash-grey people. The song on both shores is kept up in the very same tune and time, which they alternate by strophes. There are hardly any weapons and ornaments to be seen on these men. Cleanliness, the red colour of the skin, and luxury, seem to disappear with the neighbourhood of the Sultan’s palace.
Half-past seven o’clock. N.N.W. We have a beautiful river-path before us, winding towards N. Eight o’clock. An island at the left shore, the land arm of which is mostly dry. We circumnavigate this with the river, N.E. to N.N.W. When we came near to the natives, we found that they had tried the water a little; now, therefore, they dance and jump in long shining black boots and breeches, and grey close jerkins. Such was their appearance, and one really could not help laughing. Tokul-tops and a hamlet on the right shore; on the left a small island.
Half-past eight o’clock. At the left side the beginning and end of two islands, with a beautiful margin of reeds, and blooming creepers. We go N.W.; a broad arm of the Nile in the right shore to N. by E.; a large lake far towards the trees to S.E., and another one equally large and distant, to the right of the Nile-arm to E. The lakes are only visible from the masts. Behind an island on the left, a cattle village, with numerous herds.
Nine o’clock. From N. to N.W. A large crowd of women are singing, clapping their hands, jumping and shouting a bacchanalian huzza, as if they would make our acquaintance with might and main. A splendid shady group of trees, and a large tokul village, wherein they now may play the master, is in their vicinity. We land at the foot of the last-named island. I repair to Selim Capitan, to gather information through the Tershomàn.
Ten o’clock. N. by E. On the left a broad gohr swerves to W., and is said to issue again among the Elliàbs. I remarked on the shore a kind ofwillow I had never yet seen, which is altogether similar to our Rhine willows. The reïs hugged the shore, to please me, but even the last copse slipped through my fingers, without my being able to cut off a branch. The forest of the right shore promises not only variety from a distance, but also cooling shade.
Half-past ten o’clock. The river flows N.E.; on the right is a large village, near which we wind N.W.; then soon N.N.W.
On the right, herds and huzzaing, and singing negroes. The south-east wind freshens a little, just as we go N.W.; but we dare not sail, on account of the numerous shallows: and for that reason also, the mainmasts of all the larger vessels were taken down at the commencement of our return voyage. In calm weather the sails were spread over these masts, laid horizontally to protect the crew from the sun. Selim Capitan knows what the men are able to endure, and therefore commands repeatedly “Alma!” (rest); connecting it, perhaps, with calm; whereupon the rowers discontinue their labour. “Alma” means, besides, in the Aggem language in Taka, “water;” as also among the Bishari and Shukuriës. We go N.E., and then N., and round a green reed-island to S.W., but soon again to N. On the left shore, a part of the new Haba suddenly discloses itself; we go a short tract E.N.E., and at half-past eleven o’clock to N. The head and foot of two islands, one close behind the other, are at the right side. I see again the firstZigzagandSammi, two species of strand-snipes. The latter are called by the Franks Dominicans; in Mahass and Dongola, Begha and Kegla. They make the sportsman very angry, because theyannounce danger to the other feathered tribe by their loud outcry.
Twelve o’clock. N.E. by E. On the left an island, and soon afterwards, when we are navigating N.N.E., another on the right; and some tokuls, with dancing women, on the shore of the downs. We stick fast on the dry ground for a quarter of an hour, and have, at half-past twelve o’clock, two islands on the left, close to one another, with the usual green border of reeds. This side rises like a hill, in the manner of downs, even to between the trees. We only see the end of these islands. Water fixes here animal life, and human population may spread far away from the main stream, generally on the White River, which may be considered as shoreless. We go round a sand-head of the right shore from N.E. to E., and at a quarter before one o’clock to S. On the right an island, and on the shore a village; on the left several people. With a short bend we have come to the N.; go, at half-past one o’clock, to E., and immediately left to N.E. At two o’clock E., and at half-past two N. A sand-bank here protrudes itself half into the river from the left shore. A summer village, with a large tree, stands behind.
On the sand-bank some pretty young girls had collected, and a number of poor Ethiopians, highly delighted at our arrival. They sing, throw themselves on their knees, spring up again in the air, and stretch their hands imploringly towards us. Selim Capitan is easily persuaded to stop a short time, and to distribute some of the usual glass beads. The unaproned damsels, who could entreat in so friendly a manner, and point to their neck and wrists, ran, however,away immediately, when we wanted to give into their own hands some strings with glass beads. There appears to me to be no doubt that there is a certain separation of the sexes; for these girls, part of whom were marriageable, kept aloof at some distance from the men: this also, shortly before, was the case with the married women. The latter appeared here and there together with the men; but there were always very few of them, and it might therefore be considered the exception to the general rule. Opposite to the sand-bank an arm of the Nile enters E.N.E. far into the land of the right side of the river. We row to N., but soon to E., N.E., and N.
Three o’clock. We leave, about N.W., the broader river separated from us by two islands lying close to one another, and have on the right the large island, or island-land, near which the arm of the Nile enters in an easterly direction. We follow this arm N.E. and N., and the island, at its entrance, has immediately an end here. A summer pastoral village is at the right on the shore of this large so-called gohr. A quarter after three o’clock. Again from N.E. to N. Several women stand on the right shore near a simsim-field; they wear behind them a large piece of leather, like a miner’s apron, which may serve them, when they sit down, as a cushion. The rahàt in front of them is not larger than a hand. Their shrill cry of exultation sounds almost the same as that of the women of Khartùm and Kàhira. At half past three o’clock, on the right two farm-yards, surrounded regularly in the square with palisadoes; beautiful verdant young trees are standing by them. The forest seems to have vanished on all sides. FromN. we come gradually to N.E., and go now N.W., where the river makes a splendid bend to the N. A village lies a little up the country on the right side, and an island ends by it.
Everywhere we notice watchhouses among the produce of the fields or tobacco-plants. They consist of four stakes, with a scaffold, and over it a flat straw roof clogged with earth, such as is seen also in the land of Sudàn. If these little watchhouses are not erected against thieves or beasts,—the former I believe to be the case on account of the abominable suspicion of the people in barter,—they may be a shelter for the labourers when carrying on the irrigation. The black gentlemen had bent reeds, which had grown crooked, for their tobacco-pipes. In order to express their joy, they jump like goats, with closed legs, swinging at the same time their arms. When old men singly try these leaps, as I saw done previously by a sheikh of the Ababdes, when we called him an old man (aguhs), it looks extremely ridiculous; but it is abominable and disgusting when old women, with their flabby breasts flying up and down, make such jumps of joy. A very narrow canal leads either to a lake or low ground, or it may form a tributary arm and an island at the right.
The water here is still as clear and well-tasted as above near the mountains: sand has much to do with this. We do not remark, either, any stagnant water, standing in connexion with the stream, as further downwards. The thermometer has got up to 30°. Four o’clock, E.N.E. Several singing negroes on the right shore. Immediately N.N.E., a quarter of an hour later N. and N.W., but soon in a shortbend to N.N.E. The river is about two hundred paces broad. Half past four o’clock. From N.N.E. to ——, we bring up first,—N.E. by E. for a short tract; with a short bend after a quarter of an hour N.W. A powerful Nile buffalo, looked upon with astonishment, even by the sailors themselves, being a gigantic animal, plays before us in the water, and induces the two engineers to leave for a moment their cloister system; usually they have their windows hung with curtains, and never let themselves be seen at all outside the door. Five o’clock. From N.W. to N.E., where a beautiful water-road extends before us, closed below by a green island. On the right a broad Nile-arm comes from S.E., and discharges itself to S.; it seems, therefore, to encircle a large and broad island. A number of people have collected there. The river is quite calm, unmoved by a breath of air; no oar is striking its polished surface: we sail with unruffled temper, protected against the rays of the sun, under the covering of the denda (ship’s tent, perhaps from the Italiantenda). A surprising swarm of black-coloured people accompanies us along the shore. We see how they wonder at our vessels, without comprehending how such a mighty machine could have originated from a sürtuk, or hewn-out trunk of a tree. The invention of their ancestors has remained here in its natural first foundation, for their necessities give no impulse to the improvement of these boats, which may have been even in use, in this part of Africa, before they were on the Rhine, the Danube, and the Thames.
The nation of the Liènns is already in possession of this country. The Liènns have the same language asthe inhabitants of Bari; but they know also that of the Dinka nation, or the dialect of the Dinkas, which alters down the river, if such deviations have not been carried down with the features of the people. They stand in friendly relations with Bari, and do not pay tribute to King Làkono, as I heard plainly from Selim Capitan’s interpreter. Notwithstanding that their forehead is covered with points in horizontal lines, they seem to be of the same origin as the tribes of Bari. The Tershomàn Gùmberi, who gave himself out previously for a Tshièrr, pretends here suddenly to be a Liènn, and wants to go ashore with his treasures. He had accompanied us through the country of Bari, and appeared also to be known there. It seems to me that he has commercial speculations in his head, and fears that we might take from him again his beads. We induce him, however, to remain still with us, because he is very clever in his way. Half past five o’clock. On the right a village, with good tokuls, and the green island long seen by us. A city called Djàr follows soon after. Another island ends before the village, separated from it by a narrow gohr. A third village lies further down the river; to the left shore an island with a green head, near which we stop at sunset, for we see on the shore a large herd of cattle.
1st February.—It was with difficulty that I purchased a national bracelet of ivory, for these ornaments are as if grown to the people. Such bracelets are light, two to three fingers broad, and fluted, these stripes being coloured black. Small tortoise-shells are worn very commonly here, as in Bari, on the neck or arm. At eight o’clock we leave theisland, go N. by E., and see upon it several scattered farm-yards with cultivation.
An island of three-quarters of an hour long was at our right. The east wind is tolerably brisk: we soon take to our oars, and I imagine we make in this manner three sea-miles in the hour. This pace stands as the rule with Selim Capitan, when the wind is not contrary. Before us we perceive a forest, which extends over the horizon on the left shore. The latter is planted far and wide with lubien, or small white and variegated beans; so is also the small island of a quarter of an hour in length, lying at our right. Nine o’clock. From E. by N., to N.E., and N. by E. On the left side of the river, where we remark a village up the country, an arm of the Nile goes N.N.W., and forms a reed-island.
Owing to the laziness of the sailors, the east wind drives us into this canal on the sand, from which we get off again at half-past nine o’clock; a small island, with a border of green creeping flowers, is at our right. A large village is seen on the left, with large and small well-covered tokuls. On the large ones the roof reaches nearly to the ground, and rests upon stakes; behind this circular portico, we see the plastered walls of the habitation properly speaking. The small tokuls have higher walls, but not this lengthening of the roof, supported on stakes, and which we saw also in Bari. Behind the small flower island, a city or large village rises on the right shore.
We go N. by E., and remark on the left side two other large villages quite in the neighbourhood of the preceding one. The forest of the right shore has again approached; a small green vegetable islandbeing separated from it by a narrow arm; some hundreds of paces further another small island, which, besides scanty reeds, is thickly covered at the upper end with vegetables of various kinds, whilst species of couch-grass and creeping water-plants are floating round by the shores. Beyond it we see three villages lying on the margin of the river, really romantically, before and between the trees. On the left shore two neat farmyards shew themselves in a shining seriba of reeds, the stalks of which are connected very regularly with each other, but perhaps only afford resistance to tame animals. All these villages were surrounded, however, with a stronger enclosure of thorn-like shrubs, as a defence against wild beasts and naked men. A large thorn-bush supplies the place of a door, and cannot well be seized and pulled out from the outside, as it is drawn and squeezed into the door posts with its lower end. Such a seriba is common in the whole land of Sudàn; the before-mentioned reed-walls are likewise very general, and attract immediately the curious eye. The tokuls have, in part, a roof protruding in the middle with a wavy form, like also some previously seen, but the latter had low walls. A number of negroes have collected, without weapons or ornaments, and shining black, for they have passed through water.
Half-past 10 o’clock, N.N.W. In the middle of the river an island a quarter of an hour in length, covered with lubiën. A city with tokuls packed close together on the right shore, a village being opposite. Another large village is united to the city, which reaches over the island; its tokuls are mostlysurrounded with reed-walls, and probably the women are shut up in them. A beautiful tree with wide-spreading branches rises between these two cities, and may serve them for their place of meeting.
Eleven o’clock, N. We leave to our left an island of an hour in length, elevated only three feet above water-mark, covered at its head with reeds, vegetables, durra, and lubiën. The shores are planted right and left. We stuck nearly fast by the large city; and now we have thetrinchettaor foresail as leader, so that we may navigate on the sand more splendidly. The forest emerges on the left shore, and solitary beautiful trees stand on the margin of the river, between which an island grown over with reeds, of a quarter of an hour in length, is situated. In the space of ten minutes another one follows. The vessels halt at the shore to wait for Selim Capitan and the other vessels navigating on the sand. We lie to at the left shore, and the order to wash the vessels is also complied with by us.
Fadl and Sale had already gone from the ship on a hunting excursion, though I had no idea that they would do so while the vessels were advancing. I looked about anxiously from the deck, when a sailor shouted to me from the mast that he saw them at a distance. It was not long before I heard them shooting, and they came to the right shore with a large elephant’s tooth on their shoulders. I had them fetched off in the sandal, and then found the length of this tooth to be eight feet and a half. It was unfortunately a little decayed, but yet one of the largest we had on the vessels, for the larger ones were generally from seven to seven feet and a half long. It had served alsoas a stake to tie oxen to, and was purchased for a few large glass beads.
We set out at half-past two o’clock, but the east wind drives us back to the left shore. The land here is principally cultivated with simsim and lubëin. Watchhouses, scarecrows, old baskets, and skins stuck upon poles, are paraded about in the fields. Everything is standing green and beautiful. It is impossible that the natives can water these large fields by hand, as I saw by the small tobacco plantations. In vain, however, I looked about for regular irrigation canals, by which they conducted the water from the river to gush over the land, in the manner usual in Egypt and Nubia, from the simplest contrivances up to the chain of buckets drawn by oxen; for water-wheels or saghiën cease with the Arab tribes on the White Stream. The clayey fruitful soil must therefore be able to retain, for a long time, the moisture remaining after the inundation, and the strong nocturnal deposits may preserve the fruits fresh; the more so, because the sun, owing to the abundance of thick plants, cannot scorch the ground.
The creeping beans seem to have the power especially of attracting to themselves atmospheric moisture; I saw them often, on quite arid soil, where everything else was already dried up, spreading from one root up to twenty paces distant in the most luxuriant dark green foliage. It was only with caution that one dare raise these long tendrils, to seek the slender long pods, for animals liking moisture—such as snakes and loathsome reptiles—take up their abode under them. Soon we push off again from the shore and go to N.N.E. On the left an island, which is cultivatedtowards its lower end, whilst the reeds are wisely allowed to stand at the upper end, on account of the pressure of water. Near the pastoral village in the neighbourhood a large tree rises. Our men believe that veneration is paid to trees standing isolated. Another small island, covered with grass and reeds, obeys still the element from which it rose.
The shores of the river are generally green, and enjoy the cultivation of the human hand. The land extends flat on the right, encircled by the Habas: four villages lie in it, and the village on the shore is really large. On the left, a small and pretty river-meadow with a tokul and watchhouses; we make a strong bend to N.N.W., and here ends on the left the former island, above half an hour in length. A fifth village joins the four others; the solitary farm-houses are surrounded with hedges of light reeds, as also the farm-yards, wherein a few tokuls lie together. The latter, perhaps, as generally in the land of Sudàn, harbour an increasing family, and increase with it till they become a large settlement, where the head of the family has the precedence according to the rights of primogeniture; this we find also in King Làkono’s dominions. Though harvest has taken place on the right shore, we see on the left nothing but green cultivation.
Three o’clock. We land below this Ethiopian pentapolis on the right shore. Here, therefore, the bairàm-el-kebir will be probably solemnised. Unfortunately I do not see a tree under the shade of which I could seat myself, but interesting purchases of the national curiosities may be made. My speculationin elephants’-teeth is considerable, and a kind of mercantile rage comes over me for the first time in my life, when I think how I shall surprise my dear brother in Khartùm, as we are drinking the first glass of wine together in the divàn, and my three faithful Baràbras, covered with the weapons and ornaments of the people of these countries, march in through the bye-door and lay the whole booty at our feet. We are here in the country of Bamber, and the large village city bears the name of Berize. Here Gùmberi, our interpreter, is really at home: I see how his relations shake hands with him and press him in their arms. His countrymen have generally, but not always, these single tattooed prominences or points upon the forehead, which reach in six or eight lines crossways to the temples. The natives are, on the average, of considerable height, although we find among them men of moderate size, but they are destitute of the muscular structure of limbs of the highlanders, and are much more slimly built: the formation of the face and the language is, however, similar to those above. They are dirty, and may be calledpoor, in respect to their ornaments and weapons, compared with the people of the highlands of Bari. The ivory bracelets we find dearer here than anywhere else; the interpreter, who has left on board the greatest part of his beads for temporary safe-keeping, may have enlightened them on the value of our ornaments, in order to remain the safer in possession of his own treasures.
They produce their iron weapons from Bari, and seem not to wish to sell them at all. This deserves all praise, and shews that they reflect; for being asmall nation they ought always to be ready for combat. The forest behind the wide-extended durra-stubble consists of melancholy geïlid trees on dry and sandy soil. The men bring wood, every one a little log: a couple of small beads are given to each. They are contented, like children; but they manage to steal our purchased wood and sell it to us a second time. My servants tell me that they have found a deep pit covered at the top lightly with straw, in which elephants are caught. A barking dog was fastened to a corner of it. The latter is a huntsman’s whistle to entice the elephants who may chance to be curious. This manner of catching elephants is common throughout all the land of Sudàn, especially in Fàzogl. We were not a little afraid formerly in Taka of falling, during our nocturnal marches, with our horses, into these elephant-pits, as frequently happens in the Chasuas. In truth the people in Taka seem to stand on friendly terms with elephants, and to leave the hunting of them to the mountain people of that country, although Sauachinn (Sauakim) on the Red Sea is the staple town of ivory, from whence it goes to India, and afterwards to Europe.
2nd of February.—To-day is the great Bairam feast. The rising sun is greeted with twenty-one cannon-shots: all the people run away, and do not return till after all the guns had been discharged. I learned from Feïzulla Capitan the formula of the usual congratulation: “Bairam Sheriff ma berèk,” and set off with it to the two commanders. The Egyptians could not belie, on this opportunity, their innate Bakshish mania, and came one after the other for drink-money.
Arnaud is so ill that he cannot leave his vessel, and raves incessantly. With the exception of some small elephants’ teeth, I only acquire, notwithstanding Fadl’s activity, a few ivory bracelets and iron buckles, with an oblong plate. Although Selim Capitan yesterday, at the request of Gùmberi, who petitioned for his countrymen, distributed some cups, with the usual sug-sug, among the people, and also presented strings of beads to certain individuals, yet they only brought us to-day, at last,oneox. Gùmberi seemed not to possess the proper influence with his friends, and, moreover, to have excited the envy of a chief; for he had only fetched away, at night, from Selim Capitan, his glass treasures, under the promise of several paschal lambs. We set out at half-past eleven o’clock at noon from Berize, and leave on the right a reed-island, of the length of half an hour, the lower part of which is covered with lubiën. N.W. by W. Both shores are cultivated. At one o’clock a large village on the right; opposite, another one, with open tokuls, and a strong palisado-kind of enclosure, seemingly as a protection against wild beasts, if not against men themselves; for this is a station of herds. N.E. by N., and a quarter after one o’clock to N. Near the large village three others are in a line, on the right side of the river, the last numbering about a hundred and fifty tokuls. The walls of the magazines, being raised on stakes, are wattled like baskets, and then besmeared with clay; the tokuls for the cattle, which also stand separately here, are protected by a strong seriba of trunks of trees and thorns; whilst around the habitations of human beings there are hedges of reeds, partly smooth. Opposite,at a little distance from the left shore, another village. To judge from the shores, beans here appear to afford a principal means of nourishment. Half-past one o’clock. From N.N.E. to W. by N., and then N.N.W. Solitary tokuls, near which the beans occupy entire plains. From N.N.W. immediately again W. Some hundreds of royal cranes perched here quite gorgeously on a sand-bank; they were right not to keep their position, for I had raised the “longue carabine,” as my brother used to call our long Turkish gun. A quarter before two o’clock, N.W. From the deck we see four villages to the right, and one to the left.
Before us we have the obtuse corner of an island, which has from here considerable extension. Large herds of cows and villages are scattered upon it. Away over the end of this island we see, on the right side of the river, three more villages. In consequence of the shallows, we leave the right arm of the Nile and make for the left shore before the broad island, going again aback. Close to the nearest village, on the large island, a number of blacks have collected.
The leader of the chorus leads the choir, and the multitude answers with fearful vigour. A troop ofélites, assembled before the crowd, run in close column backwards and forwards,—their leader at their head, commanding them, and holding a pole, on the top of which an animal’s tail was fastened, clearly in order to give us a warlike representation. But they bring several heads of cattle to the shore. These are reasonable men: we have, in truth, no meat, and the sailors crack the rough lubiën-pods and the durra-stalks like sugar-canes. Real garden warblersare these Arabs, and all the blacks. Selim Capitan has already reached the island, whilst we remain fixed on the sand until I wake up the captain. I hear the sailors gasping forth “eh lissa,” but I know this simulating of extreme exertion, when each man trusts to the other one working. At half-past two o’clock we pushed on through the left arm of the Nile over to the island, where there was a great huzzaing and joy on the vessels touching land. Again they brought three oxen, and a splendid barter took place. Besides fowls, goats, and sheep, they bring a quantity of elephants’ teeth, panthers’, leopards’ and monkeys’ skins, little stools, iron buckles, ivory bracelets, weapons, lubiën, small water-melons, woollen war-caps, iron necklaces, strings twisted together of little shining black fruits, fixed like beads, &c. The people are very friendly, and willing to oblige, and I might say, more cultivated than those of Bari. We are on the large island called after the name of the neighbouring great village Buko. The latter contains more than five hundred tokuls. I hear, to my astonishment, that the nation here is not called Bamber, but Buko, and that the tribe of the Bambers has its boundaries before this island, and is only a small race, like the Korreji, or Korreschi, who are said to dwell above the Bambers, and may have originated from Mount Korreji in Barì. It seems that these Bukos are of one race with the Bambers, Tshièrrs, and Liènns, for they have generally their foreheads dotted. The formation of the face, and other physical qualities—the large and moderate stature, also speakin favour of a common origin and subsequent separation.
The arm of the Nile wherein we lie, and which we shall navigate, is called Kirboli; the right and narrow arm on the other side of the island, towards N., Kirti. Selim Capitan requests me to accompany him to the Kirti. We went down it in the sandal for the distance of half an hour, and found its breadth to be seventy-five metres, by the assistance of the rope which was drawn across it through one of the plundered sürtuks. As far as we can see, this arm goes, with slight declinations to E. and W., entirely to N., which direction the natives also gave. According to this it would be our nearest road, but its water is unknown, and it is not thought safe to let the lighter vessels take this short cut.
With respect to this little track, it had a depth, at the commencement, of two, immediately afterwards of two and a half, and, at the end of our excursion, of three and a quarter fathoms. We returned about evening by land,—painful enough for Sabatier and myself, who are just convalescent,—and passed by nine small villages, or groups of tokuls, which I had taken, at our anchorage, for three villages, and then had counted thirteen. The surface of the earth is an excellent humus on this side, and the little fields were trenched with furrows for irrigation, and on which, among other things, we found water-melons. On the extensive plain of the island we do not observe a tree, except some small ones, near our vessels, and a large one behind the city of Buko. From a distance we saw the natives harpooning fish, which they broughtsoon for sale to us. But here, also, we found, in general, an intolerable and abominable mistrust.
3rd February.—The natives have generally few ornaments, weapons, and other effects; and little, therefore, could I acquire in this respect. Yet I did a good business in ivory, and I please myself at the idea of how you, my dear brother, will stare, though far,—far are we yet asunder.
An old man, having two thick ivory rings, of a hand’s breadth, on the upper part of each arm, and leathern strings round his neck, will have nothing to do with selling or the new glass trade. He regards the glass beads with a certain air of contempt,—won’t have them, even gratis, and looks disdainfully at the childish passion of his nation. I see him now from the vessel, quietly sitting under a little tree, and smoking his pipe, without troubling himself to come nearer to us. He smoked, as is frequently seen on the White Stream,charcoal, from want of tobacco—called here also tabak—a thing which none of us could imitate. When I gave him tobacco, he became at once quite friendly, knocked the charcoal out of his pipe, filled it, took down the little tongs, to which there was a shovel attached, from the pipe-tube, and laid a coal upon it.
Unfortunately, what we had been already told in Bari about the traffic in slaves, was confirmed here. Las Casas,[6]who effected the freedom of the Indians,transplanted therefore an abuse only from one quarter of the globe to the other, without considering its results. In the mutual wars here, the prisoners, like those of the Greeks, Romans, and ancient Germans, are made slaves. Yet, perhaps, among these people they are redeemed by paying a certain number of cattle. Men-hunts, properly speaking, do not seem to take place, and their wars consist only in the reciprocal plunder of herds, and the revenge thereby occasioned, when they may seize on human beings as an equivalent for their pillaged property.
Cattle are here of considerable value, and this may arise from the great population, which therefore does not despise meat. A slave costsan ox, orsix iron bracelets, which are not thicker than a little finger. It is Sultan Làkono who takes their slaves from them, giving iron in return; and as in the land of Sudàn, golden okiën serve instead of coined money, so here rings are used for the same purpose. It may be also a kind of policy in this king paying only in rings, and not in weapons, by the possession of which his neighbours might become dangerous to him. Làkono comes to this place every year, with several large sürtuks, and winds up this business in person. He requires these slaves for labour (those seen by us seemed quite contented with their lot)—to get the iron and work it, and also perhaps for his protection. The despots of Sennaar also keep up their dignity by slaves, and not by a body-guard ofwomen, any more than Sultan Làkono. The Turks profited by this cheap opportunity to buy slaves, and Suliman Kashef, who on the former expedition brought fifteen slaves to Khartùm, and sold them as soldiers, is said to have taken this morning several on board his vessel. I am unable alone to oppose this want of discipline. Even M. Arnaud, who pretended previously to oppose with me any purchase of slaves, has been found very willing to take on board a young native girl, who, however, is said to belong to the woman-hating Selim Capitan, as a plaything for his little slave, or for himself, which makes the invalid Sabatier perfectly furious.
Half-past eleven o’clock. We leave the island, and go at first S.W. by S., and then proceed N.N.W. on the Kirboli (Bah’r el abiat). On the right we have immediately the large village of Buko, which turns longitudinally from the shore. The tree standing there is taken not only by me, but also by the Egyptians, for asycamore. Three villages follow on the shore of the island; the last also is not a small one. For a moment we are beneaped, and get ourselves in motion by rowing against the north-east wind, which is looming. The latter village becomes still larger, and is connected with several others; from which, at twelve o’clock, a small hamlet is separated by an interval of space. The pointed roofs, which are frequently so shelving, of the little tokuls, and which I at first could not explain, are nothing but the movable coverings of the wattled magazines. We wind S.W. by W. On the right a large and small village, W.N.W. and N. The arm of the Nile here is not more than a hundred and fifty pacesbroad. Half-past twelve o’clock N.W. and W. by E. Three villages on the right, and on the left, from the deck, a distant Haba. Not far from the shore, another village on the island. One o’clock.—We go to E.N.E., and wind to the left W. by N. The island continues cultivated, and we perceive again a hamlet upon it. Half-past one o’clock.—From W. by N., to N.E. by N., and a short tract N.N.W. We halt at this place to wait for Selim Capitan. After a quarter of an hour we set out again, and go from W.N.W. to N.N.E.
Several purchases were made, and there is eternal strife, robbery, and theft of beads, among the crew. I see there will be murder and homicide; for every one now wants spears and ebony clubs, as well as strings of ostrich-egg aglets. It is fortunate that the ivory is claimed by the government, and private purchase of it forbidden. We observe here also some of those gigantic ant-hills, which are so common on the low ground down the river. From the deck we remark two villages on the left side, before the forest, which is half an hour distant.
Two o’clock. N., and immediately W. by N. A large village upon the island is seen from the deck at a little distance from the right shore. Half-past two o’clock. At the right a broad arm of the Nile, going to N.W., and forming a small island. We leave it to the right, and go W. by N. and N. to N.N.E.; then round a sand-head again, S.W. by W. The shores are mostly precipitously broken off; layers of humus, sand, and earth impregnated with iron oxyde, which forms here also the substratum. A quarter before three o’clock. Round a sand-bank of the rightshore for five minutes, N.N.E., then N.W. for an equally short time, and to N. by W. The shores here are covered, for the most part, with green reeds.
Three o’clock. The thermometer rose this morning, up to noon, from 20° to 27°, and has now, at three o’clock, 30°. Towards N. From the deck, a village on the left, and two on the right. N.W. by N. Three villages on the left, and one on the right; the former near the Haba, which is a quarter of an hour distant. Half-past three o’clock. From W.N.W. to N.N.E. Two villages on the left, a little remote from the shore. A very short tract E.N.E., and we round a long sand-head to W. Six hippopotami are enjoying themselves before us, as yesterday; and it seems that they retreat, when the stream falls, into the marsh regions, where they are more secure from man.
To N. Here we again see hippopotami and crocodiles near one another; they live peaceably together, as is generally known here, and a crocodile would never attack a hippopotamus, much as he might like perhaps his flesh. The latter has, indeed, like the elephant, a clumsy appearance, but notwithstanding this, he displays an incomparably greater activity in water and on land than the crocodile; besides, he is as courageous as a bull, as soon as he is provoked, and attacks men and tramples them under his feet, when he is wounded on shore. On the other hand, he is said never to go ashore from the water, when he is struck there by the harpoon, to pursue and take revenge.
We remark four villages in the neighbourhood of the right shore, or on the island of Buko. Nearly allthese villages are to be seen only from the deck over our cabin. Four o’clock. From N.W. to N.E. by N. The hippopotami appear angry at their tranquillity being disturbed by us foreign intruders. They move quite boldly near to the vessels, snort and throw up water, although they have not been offended, as they were previously, by shots, which are discontinued, owing to the great mischief perpetrated by these beasts at that time. From N.E. by N., immediately to N.W. Some trees come in view, and soon also a solitary dhellèb-palm—a pleasing sight which we had long been deprived of. For some hours we have seen no people on the shore, although three villages are found here again at a short distance from it. The purchase of slaves or kidnapping cannot be unknown to them, and they may fear aquid pro quofor themselves, and not trust the seeming peace. Half-past four o’clock. To W., a little way to S.W., and then W. by S., at which bend the river is scarcely fifty paces broad. Reed-shores throughout. From the very short tract W. by S. to S.W. by S. Here a broad arm goes to N.W., and forms an island at our right, where Suliman Kashef is already halting, whilst we are still clinging to the left shore. Five o’clock. Before us, to S.S.W., the river again separates, and forms another island. The right arm is our road, and goes S.S.W.; the left goes S.S.E. The latter appears to have become quite dry, for the negroes have drawn a barrier of reeds through it, in order to shut out the fish found in this gohr. We land at the first island. The arm lying to S.S.W. shews itself now as a gohr, discharging itself with unusual rapidity into the Nile, instead of forming ourtrack, for our course runs with the former great arm to N.W.
4th February,—Yesterday was the last day of the great Bairam. Selim Capitan and Suliman Kashef had called up all the skill of Turkish cookery to give us Franks a good dinner, at which we were the jollier because the Frenchmen had lost several bottles of wine in a wager. The river, flowing in S.S.W., and said to be an arm of the Nile, puzzles me exceedingly. According to the natives, it comes from the mountains above, and indeed from the Nile itself. If it come from above, it must make a considerable bend; for it flows from the left side into the river, and follows upwards its direction immediately from S.S.W. to W.: it must cut through, somewhere, the old sanded and choked-up primitive bed of the Nile, to come from E. or S.E. from the mountains to W. It might be possible that the half dried-up gohr, from S.S.E., serves as its main bed at high water, and this being sanded up, it had retreated now into the deeper canal. Selim Capitan found the breadth of this tributary, or gohr, to be eighty metres near the before-mentioned solitary dhellèb-palm on its shore. The rapidity of its current is greater than usual in the White river, and amounts to three sea-miles and a half. Still it is doubtful whether it be a river discharging itself, or a Nile arm. Clouds, threatening rain, have shewn themselves for some days, and in the evening-whole coveys of swallows are moving towards the N. We have seen no dhellèb-palms on the shores of our Kirboli, although there are some of them on the main stream. The Kirboli, therefore, may have already reached its termination here.
I hear, from Selim Capitan and his interpreter, who is well acquainted with this country, that we passed by two tribes yesterday afternoon; and I understand now what the natives wanted to tell me when we yesterday halted for a moment to wait for Selim Capitan. According to what the Bukos themselves said, they were as large a nation as their island. But this is incorrect; for at two o’clock yesterday, this tribe ceased, and was followed by that of the Tshièrrs, who possess both shores from thence, and reach to the neighbourhood of this place, where Bohrs appear on the right shore. The Tshièrrs have their foreheads stippled, like the people dwelling upwards, and use also the same language. Downwards from them the language is again allied to that of the Dinkas. It was, therefore, the little country of the Tshièrrs, where no one was seen on the shore, because they feared that we were set against them by the Bukos. However, the tribes above named, having similar tongues and descent, do not live in open feud, for I met myself with men of the Tshièrrs at the top of the island. A couple of them also were with Selim Capitan, and told him that their countrymen had fled from us.
It was here where I was so ill on our ascent, and yet was sufficiently sensible to request to be bled. Therefore, everything now is new to me, and I am the more anxious for intelligence about the stream territory of this place. As I hear from Thibaut and Selim Capitan, Arnaud applied himself to the sextant on our ascent, and found 3° 48′! Selim made himself merry at the engineer’s expense, because he himself, on the first expedition, the limits of which were somehours further upwards, had likewise found, or pretended to have found, 3° and some minutes. The difference, however, appears now by the calculation at not less than 3°!