CHAPTER IXRiveting

Fig. 32.

Cutting a Hole in the Drip Cup.—When the candle socket is completed, a hole should be cut for it through the bottom of the drip cup. The socket is slipped through this hole until the bottom of the flangeArests against the bottom of the drip cup, seeFig. 32. A small chisel should be used to cut the hole through the bottom of the drip cup. Thedrip cup is rested on a small block of wood which is held in the vise jaws, and the chisel used in the same manner as a punch, the end of the wooden block supporting the tin as the chisel cuts through it. The cutting edge of the chisel should be about ⅛-inch wide and should be very sharp. Such a chisel may be purchased at most tool dealers or a ⅛-inch nail-set may be purchased and the end ground to a chisel point on a grindstone. A common steel nail may be used for a chisel if the point is filed off entirely and the end of the nail filed to a chisel point. The shank of the nail should be ⅛ inch in diameter.

Set the bottom edge of the candle socket in the center of the drip cup and trace a line around it with a sharp pencil or a steel scriber. Then place the drip cup on a block of wood and cut out the disk of tin inside the line, using a series of chisel cuts to follow the line. Take care not to cut the hole too large—it should just fit the candle socket as shown in the sectional drawing,Fig. 32. A half-round file may be used to file away any rough or jagged edges left by the chisel cutting.

Making the Handle.—A handle should next be made from a piece of tin 1½ by 8 inches. The handle should be made tapering and a dimensioned drawing for this is shown inFig. 33. When the tin is cut to the shape shown the dividers should be set to ³⁄₁₆ inch and a line scribed ³⁄₁₆ inch inside each side of the handle. The tin should be foldedover on these lines so that the sides of the handle will be nicely rounded and made stronger. Directions for making a straight fold will be found onpage 50and need not be repeated here as the operation is very simple.

Fig. 33.

The handle should be shaped as shown inFig. 34. It may be shaped or formed up by placing it over a round anvil and using a mallet in exactly the same way that the handle of the biscuit cutter was formed, seeFig. 35, except that the handle for the candlestick will have a better appearance if the folds are left on the outside, seeFig. 34.

Fig. 34.Fig. 35.

Fig. 34.

Fig. 35.

The ends of the handle should be bent over at right angles as shown inFig. 34. The small endhooks over the drip cup and the large end hooks over the edge of the tray or bottom of the candlestick.

The different parts of the candlestick are now ready to be soldered together. The socket should be fitted into the drip cup and these two soldered together first. Apply the solder to the bottom of the drip cup and socket in the angle where the socket and the drip cup meet, as shown inFig. 32.

When the socket and the drip cup are soldered together they should be set in position in the center of the bottom tray and soldered in place. (The candlestick will have a much better appearance if the seams in the side of the drip cup, socket, and bottom tray are in line with each other when the candlestick is soldered together.)

The handle is the last thing to put in place and it is soldered to the drip cup and to the bottom tray—which will complete the candlestick.

Many pleasing varieties of this simple and practical candlestick may be made by changing the diameter and shape of the cans used for the trays and the length of the candle socket and the shape of the handle.

MAKING A PAIL FROM A TIN CAN—CUTTING AWAY THE SURPLUS TIN AT THE RIM—FORMING THE LUGS FOR THE HANDLE—RIVETING THE LUGS IN POSITION—FORMING A WIRE HANDLE

Riveting is one of the most useful operations connected with metal working of all kinds, and it is very frequently used in tin working where it is not advisable to join the metal with solder; or riveting may be employed in connection with a soldered joint to strengthen it and to prevent the joined pieces from melting off, such as the lugs or handle holders on a pail used for cooking, etc.

Riveting is a very simple operation. The rivets are usually made with a flat or rounded head attached to a short cylindrical shaft or shank. A hole is punched through each piece of metal to be joined. The pieces of metal are placed together so that the holes are in line and a rivet shank slipped through these holes. The head of the rivet is then rested on a flat iron or steel anvil and the headless end is hammered over until it forms into a second head and thus holds the two pieces of metal tightly together.

The pail offers a very simple problem in rivetingand it is very easy to make a substantial pail from a tin can.

Making a Pail.—Select a large, clean, round can for the pail. A one-gallon fruit or vegetable can makes up into a very useful pail. Use a can opener to cut away the remaining tin of the lid but take care not to mar the rim of the can. Rolled rim cans make the best pails.

When the lid is cut away a jagged edge usually remains near the rim and this must be trimmed away and the remaining tin hammered down close to the rim. If more than ¼ inch of the tin of the can lid remains next to the rim of the can it should be trimmed away with the metal shears until a strip of tin remains next to the rim about ¼ inch wide.

Cutting Away Surplus Tin at the Rim.—(A pair of curved metal shears are very useful for making circular cuts of this nature if you have them, but the surplus tin may be trimmed away with the straight shears if small cuts are taken with them.) Cut into the tin next to the rim with the shears—the cut should be made at right angles to the rim and extend in to the rim. Now take a pair of strong flat-nosed pliers and grasp the tin firmly with them to the right of the cut and with a quick downward motion of the plier jaws start to break away the tin next to the rim as shown inFig. 36. The tin will break away at the angle of the lid and the rim and should peel away easily with a series of quick downwardmovements of the plier jaws—a fresh grip should be taken for each downward movement of the plier jaws and the ends of the plier jaws should be pushed up against the rim each time that they are moved into a new position.

Fig. 36.

When the tin is trimmed away place the rim of the can on the end of the maple block and use the rounded end of the forming mallet to hammer the tin down tight to the rim, seeFig. 37. The pail is then ready for the lugs or handle-holding pieces at the sides. These are to be soldered and riveted in place.

Forming the Lugs for the Handle.—Cut two pieces of tin, each 1½ by 3½ inches, fold over ¼ inch on each of the long sides of these two pieces, then double over each piece with the folds outside, as shown inFig. 38. Snip off the corners, then place the lugs on the maple block and punch three holes in about the position shown. See that theholes are slightly larger than the shanks of the rivets to be used, but do not get the holes very much larger than the rivets.

Rivets are supplied by the hardware stores in plain soft black iron and also tinned. The tinned rivets are best for tin work as they may be easily soldered to the work if necessary. These tinned rivets are used for representing faucets, try-cocks, etc., in making tin can toys. Several dozen or a box of No. 14 Tinned Rivets should be purchased.

Fig. 37.Fig. 38.

Fig. 37.

Fig. 38.

Riveting the Lugs in Position.—Solder the two lugs in position on each side of the top of the pail. These two holes should come below the rim.

Place the pail over a round log of wood held in the vise and punch the holesA,Bthrough the tin of the pail, using the holes previously punched in the lugs of the pail as a guide.

Remove the log of wood from the vise and placea large piece of round pipe in it for an anvil on which to rivet. Push a rivet through the holeA, and place the pail on the pipe in such a manner that the head of the rivet rests on the iron pipe. Take a small riveting hammer or a small machine hammer and hammer down the small end of the rivet that projects above the work, seeFigs. 39 and 40. Hammer rather gently using many light quick blows instead of a few smashing heavy ones. The light blows tend to form a better head on the rivet and to hold the metal more securely in place.

Fig. 39.Fig. 40.

Fig. 39.

Fig. 40.

After you have had some experience in riveting, you will find that the ball peen, or rounded end of a machine hammer, is better to rivet with than a flat-ended hammer.

When two rivets are placed in each of the lugs the pail is ready for the handle.

Forming a Wire Handle.—Pail handles may be made of ⅛-inch galvanized wire or any piece of strong, stiff wire that is handy. The galvanized wire is best as it will not rust.

Cut a piece of wire 14 inches in length. Do not try to cut this wire with your metal snips but use a heavy pair of wire-cutting pliers if you have them. A simple method of cutting wire is to place the wire in the vise and use the corner of a file to cut through it.

Fig. 41.Fig. 42.

Fig. 41.

Fig. 42.

Trying to cut heavy wire with the metal shears will ruin them; besides, you can’t do it.

Mark off 1¾ inches from each end of the pieceof wire you have cut for the handle and bend each end down at right angles from this mark, seeFig. 42,A.

This may be easily done by placing the wire in the vise so that the mark for bending is held exactly at the top of the vise jaws, then use a hammer to bend the wire over at right angles, seeFig. 41.

Place the wire over the pipe held in the vise and use a wooden mallet to round it over to the form shown inFig. 42,B. Slip the ends of the wire handle through the holes punched for it in the lugs on the pail and then turn the wire up at the ends with a heavy pair of pliers until it looks as shown inFig. 42,C, and the pail is completed.

If the pail described above is made of a rolled-rim can it may be safely used for camp cooking, as there is no danger that it will melt apart over the fire. When a spout and a lid are added to the pail, it will serve as an excellent coffee pot. A coffee pot and other cooking utensils are shown inFig. 95.

THE WHEELS—FOUR WAYS OF MAKING WHEELS OF TIN CANS—MAKING A WHEEL FROM A CAN WITH SOLDERED ENDS—MAKING WHEELS FROM ROLLED-RIM CANS—TWO TYPES OF WHEELS MADE FROM CAN LIDS

A very simple and strong toy automobile truck may be made of tin cans. If the foregoing problems have been carefully worked out, there is no reason why one should find the truck difficult to make, provided the directions are carefully followed.

As the construction of a truck is typical of so many wheeled toys, it was selected as the best type with which to begin. Various fittings may be added, such as lights, fenders, running boards, handles, tool boxes, etc., but only after the plain truck chassis, hood, seat and wheels have been successfully assembled. This first real problem in toy making should be kept as simple as possible.

Wheels form the most important part of any rolling toy, so these will be taken up first and each method of making them discussed at length.

Four Ways of Making Wheels of Tin Cans.—Both types of tin cans may be used for makingwheels, the rolled rim and the soldered flange can, but the method of making the wheel is different for each type of can. The press-in can lids from molasses and syrup cans may also be used for making wheels.

Making a Wheel from a Can with Soldered Ends.—Suitable truck wheels may be made from the smallest size evaporated milk cans. Condensed milk cans are too large for a small truck, though either of the above mentioned cans have the soldered flanged ends.

The contents of these evaporated milk cans is usually poured through one of two holes punched through the cover. This renders the cover practically useless for making one side of the wheel, unless the holes are small, so that eight cans will have to be used for making four wheels.

If the cans are opened on the side with a can opener but four cans need be used, as each end of the can is then intact. These wheels are made by removing one lid from the can, cutting the can down to the required wheel width, and then soldering on the lid again. When the ends of the can are intact, the can is cut in two parts by cutting around the sides of the can with the can opener. One part of the can is cut down to the required height as in making a tray; this height represents the width of the wheel. The end is melted off the other part of the can and this end is placed over the first part of thecan that is cut to the width of the wheel. It is then soldered in place and the wheel is made.

If plenty of evaporated milk cans are not handy, it is better to buy four new, filled cans from the grocer, as these small cans cost only eight cents when filled with milk.

Fig. 43.

Empty the cans by cutting a slit in the side with a sharp can opener, seeFig. 43. Hold the cans over a glass or jar until the milk runs out into the glass, then rinse the cans out with hot water which will also remove the label. Continue cutting around the can with the can opener until it is completely cut in half. All four cans should be emptied and cut in twoin this manner. As for the milk, any cook will know what to do with that.

Open the dividers to ⅜ inch and scribe a line around the bottom of one of the cans that has been cut in two, using the soldered edge of the rim against which to rest one point of the dividers, as shown inFig. 44. Cut away the surplus tin exactly as if you were making a tray. If the cans have become dented when they were being cut with the can opener, place them on a round anvil and remove the dents by hammering gently with a mallet.

Fig. 44.

Take up another half can and make a cut from the edge down to the flange at the bottom as shown inFig. 45. Take an old pair of flat-nosed pliers and hold it over an open flame, such as a gas range or the flame of a soldering copper heater, until the solder shows in a bright line at the joint of the can and lid, then take the forming mallet and give the lid at the bottom a sharp tap or two with it which should knock the lid away from the sides of the can held by the pliers, seeFig. 45. Do not use your good pliers to hold the can over the flame, as theheat will soon take the temper out of them and render them useless.

It is not necessary to get the can red hot in order to melt the solder.

Fig. 45.Fig. 46.

Fig. 45.

Fig. 46.

When the lid is removed, try to fit it on the other part of the can and it will be found impossible to force the tin into the lid without denting the sides of the can. The rim or flange at the edge of the lid must be enlarged in order to place the lid back on the can. The edge of the sides of the can to be fitted into the lid should be filed with a small flat file to remove the tin raised by the metal shears when cutting around the can.

To enlarge the rim of the lid, place it over a piece of pipe held in a vise and hammer the rim with a light hammer, turning the lid slowly around on the anvil as you hammer, seeFig. 46. After hammering completely around the flange once or twice, try to fit the lid to the can again. It should fit without much hammering. Squeeze the lid on the can and hammer it gently into place, the wheel being placed flat on the bench at the time. Solder the lid in place and the wheel is finished except for the axle holes.

A small drop of solder will be found on the lid of all evaporated milk cans. Melt this away with a hot soldering copper and a round hole will be found exactly in the center of the lid. This hole may be enlarged to fit the wire used for the axle.

Find the center of the side of the wheel with the dividers as described onpage 37, Chapter II.

Use an ice pick to punch a tiny hole exactly in the center of the wheel. If ⅛-inch galvanized wire is to be used for an axle, push the ice pick further into the hole, turning the pick while doing so, until the hole is just large enough to fit the axle wire. Repeat the process on the other side of the wheel until the hole there is enlarged to fit the axle wire,Fig. 47.

If the axle holes are not exactly in the center of the wheel, it will not run true. A little care used inpunching the holes will cause it to run true enough for any toy.

Fig. 47.

If you possess a hand drill and a drill the same size of the wire used for an axle, you may drill the hole in the center of the wheel instead of punching it through. To do this, first find the center of the wheel and then make a slight dent exactly in thecenter of the wheel with the ice pick or a small center punch. The point of the drill is placed in this dent when starting to drill the hole. I find it better to use a ⅟₁₆-inch drill and drill a hole through the center of the wheel with this first, then use a drill the same size as the axle wire and enlarge the ⅟₁₆-inch hole with this.

In any case, the wheel should be soldered together before the holes are put through the centers. Finish up the four wheels and lay them aside until the truck is nearly completed, as the wheels are the last things to be added.

Galvanized wire of ⅛ or ³⁄₁₆ inch diameter is usually used for axles. This wire is usually carried in stock at hardware stores. It is usually furnished in coiled form and must be straightened out before being used. A piece is cut from the coil of wire long enough to make the two axles. It should then be placed on a flat metal surface and hammered straight.

Making Wheels from Rolled-Rim Cans.—A very strong wheel may be used from rolled-rim cans. This process is slightly different from that used with the soldered flange cans. Wheels from 2½ to 6 inches in diameter may be made by this second method, but unless this type of wheel is made from very small cans it is not so suitable for the truck as the wheels made from small evaporated milk cans.

Eight rolled-rim cans will have to be used to make four wheels unless the cans are opened at the side when first emptied. Both types of wheels should be made so as to become familiar with the making of each type, as both types are used in making the models shown in this book.

This second type of wheel is rather easier to make than the first, but you should know how to make either type, as then many different sizes of wheels may be made with whatever cans you may have. The rolled rim is more often employed in making large cans than in the smaller ones.

To make wheels suitable for a truck of the size described here, small soup cans may be used; these are usually rolled-rim cans.

Fig. 48.

To make a wheel from two rolled-rim cans, a line should be scribed about the base of the can, ⅜ inch from the bottom, and the can cut down to this line, seeFig. 48,A. Scribe a line ¼ inch from the base of the second can and cut this can down to this line. Make a cut every ¼ inch around the tin at theside of this second can, each cut to reach the base or rim of the can, seeFig. 49,B.

Place this part of the wheel on the wooden block and use the riveting hammer (C) to drive the cut side of the can inward as shown inFig. 49,B.

Fig. 49.Fig. 50.

Fig. 49.

Fig. 50.

Now take up the can cut down to ⅜ inch and place it over a pipe anvil which is held in the vise. Use a metal hammer and hammer around the edge of this can two or three times to enlarge it. Turn the can around the anvil when hammering it. Then try to push it down over the second or turned part of the second can as shown inFig. 49,D. If it does not fit, continue the hammering until the two parts of the wheel fit together and then solder them in place and the wheel is completed, except for theaxle holes, which may be put in exactly the same way as they are put in the first type of wheel.

PLATE IXSteam roller made by authorSteam roller made by a boy of ten years of age in a grade school under the direction of Mr. Arthur Campbell

PLATE IX

Steam roller made by author

Steam roller made by a boy of ten years of age in a grade school under the direction of Mr. Arthur Campbell

The large roller of the toy steam roller shown inPlate IXis made of rolled-rim cans as are the large wheels of the toy traction engine shown inPlate XVIII.

Be sure to try both methods until you understand them thoroughly, as a great deal depends on the ability to make good wheels for a toy model.

Two Types of Wheels Made from Can Lids.—A third method of making wheels is to use two can lids soldered together, but as it takes quite a while to collect eight can lids of the same diameter, it is better to employ this method only occasionally, as for flanged car wheels made to run on a track, etc. A glance atFig. 50,A, should be enough to show how these wheels are made up of two pushed-in can lids soldered together at their largest diameter.

The first two methods described result in wheels that look like the heavy truck wheels employed on actual trucks.

Another type of wheel may be built of the flanged pushed-in lids. In this type the lids are soldered together in just the opposite way as that described in the third method, so that the flanges are on the outside of the wheels. These wheels are generally used for belt wheels on the mechanical models,Fig. 50,B.

FORMING THE CHASSIS—USING THE WOODEN ROOFING FOLDER—FOLDING—USING THE VISE FOR SHORT FOLDING—USING THE HATCHET STAKE FOR FOLDING

Forming the Chassis.—The chassis or frame of the truck may be made from a single piece of tin cut from a gallon fruit can. All four edges are turned down so as to form a shallow tray or box.

Cut a piece of tin 12¾ by 4¼ inches. Use the dividers to mark off a line ⅜ of an inch inside all four sides, but be sure that the tin is cut perfectly square before you do this inside marking. Cut in to the lines A A on all four of the darkened lines as shown inFig. 51,A.

Place the tin on a sharp-edged block and fold down the long sides 1 and 2 first. Remember not to try to fold these long sides or folds down all at once, but rather go over them two or three times lightly with the mallet as they are being turned down at a right angle. Take care that the tin folds over exactly at the line.

When the sides 1 and 2 are folded down at right angles, fold down the ends 3 and 4. This will leavefour small ends of the two long sides projecting beyond the ends as shown inFig. 51,B. Fold these in over the ends of the chassis with a mallet. Hold them in place with a pair of flat-nosed pliers and solder them to the ends where they touch, so that the chassis appears as shown inFig. 51,C.

Fig. 51.

Using the Wooden Roofing Folder.—Folds of all kinds may be very easily and quickly made by using the wooden roofing folder,Plate XII. The work turned out by this simple machine is very straight and true, particularly long folds or angles of tin. The gauge may be set at any desired width up to ⁷⁄₁₆ of an inch and any number of folds of the desired width can be quickly and accurately produced by inserting the tin between the holding bars and closing up the folder.

Fig. 52.

The holding bars are shown atA A,Fig. 52. The adjustable gauge atB,C Care the wooden supports which are hinged together.Dis the iron handle,Ethe adjusting screw,Fis the piece of tin to be folded.

PLATE XDumping truck with body hoisted by winch under seat, made by Miss M. C. NewmanUnpainted chassis of toy auto truck made by authorDumping truck made by Miss M. C. Newman

PLATE X

Dumping truck with body hoisted by winch under seat, made by Miss M. C. Newman

Unpainted chassis of toy auto truck made by author

Dumping truck made by Miss M. C. Newman

PLATE XIChassis of toy auto truck showing springsDumping truck made by a student of Teachers College

PLATE XI

Chassis of toy auto truck showing springs

Dumping truck made by a student of Teachers College

PLATE XIIWooden roofing folder with a piece of tin inserted ready to fold

PLATE XII

Wooden roofing folder with a piece of tin inserted ready to fold

The folder is shown inFig. 53. Both of these views are sectional to show the working of the folder. The actual construction may be easily understood by looking at the actual folder. The gaugeB,Fig. 52, is adjusted by first loosening up the five screwsEwith a screw driver and then pulling in or pushing out the gaugeBto the desired width of thefold to be made. The screwsEare then tightened up with the screw driver and the tin inserted between the piecesA A. The folder is then closed by grasping the handleDand closing the two sides of the folder together. When the folder is opened, the tin will be found to be folded over.

The fold may then be completed with the mallet if it is desired to close it up against the tin. To form a right angle the folder is not completely closed. A little experimenting with a piece of scrap tin will show how far to close the folder in order to obtain a given angle.

Fig. 53.

Care should be taken to set the gaugeBparallel with the holding barA. The folder is ordinarily set at ¼ inch. This is the width of most of the folds made in the tin. This simple machine will save much time in tin working and one should be purchased if possible. It is practically the only way a long fold in a narrow strip of tin may be made accurately.

The folder may be used to fold down the two long sides of the chassis, the ends may then be turned down over the edge of a block as the ends of the long folds will prevent placing the short folds in the folder. Narrow strips of tin may be folded overand hammered together with the mallet. These strips of tin may be slipped over the sharp edges at the bottom of each side of the chassis, thus making the edges very strong and removing the danger of cutting the fingers.Fig. 51,D, shows an enlarged view of a corner of the chassis with the folded tin strips slipped over the lower edges.

These narrow folded strips are very easily made on the folding machine. Cut two strips of tin ½ by 12 inches and set the folder to fold ¼ inch, place the tin in the folder and fold it over. Remove it from the folder and hammer it nearly together with the mallet and then place a separate strip of tin in the folded part and continue hammering with the mallet until the folded tin is closed in on the inside or inserted strip of tin.

The folded strip is then ready to slip over the edge of the side of the chassis and to be soldered to it in several places; that is, the folded strip need not be soldered to the chassis continuously, but may be held in place by soldering about every four inches.

The two short strips of tin ½ by 4 inches should then be cut, folded and soldered in place at the short ends of the chassis. (No sharp edge should be left about a tin can toy when it may be avoided by folding or covering.)

A long narrow strip of tin is rather difficult to fold without the use of a folder, but it may be done with the mallet and block as follows:

Folding.—If a strip of tin ½ by 12 inches is to be folded over, it is better to cut a strip of tin 1¼ by 12 inches. Mark off ¼ inch all along one long edge and fold it down over a block as in making the handle of the cooky cutter, for you will then have more metal to hold to while folding. When the piece is completely folded down to a right angle, turn it over on the block and close the tin down with a mallet, inserting a piece of tin before closing the tin together. Then the surplus tin may be cut away and you have a narrow folded strip. As in all folding by hand using the mallet and the block, the tin should be gradually folded into place.

Using the Vise for Short Folding.—The vise may be used to fold short pieces of tin very accurately. The folding line is first marked on the tin; the tin is then placed and held in the vise jaws so that the line is parallel with and exactly at the top of the jaws. The mallet is then used to hammer the tin over to the required angle, seeFig. 54. A very sharp accurate fold should result.

Using the Hatchet Stake for Folding.—A special stake has been devised for folding tin. This is called the hatchet stake and is listed in the supplementary tool list. It is made in the shape of the letter T. The horizontal part is made like a long narrow-bladed hatchet, and the vertical shank attached to it may be held in the vise or set in a hole in the bench, seeFig. 55.

The top edge of this tool is perfectly straight and fairly sharp. One side of the blade runs straight down from the edge and the other side slopes down at an angle considerably less than a right angle. The top edge of the hatchet stake is used to fold the tin over and it is specially formed to permit the folding of more than a right angle.

Fig. 54.Fig. 55.

Fig. 54.

Fig. 55.

To use the hatchet stake, a folding line is first marked on the tin. This line is kept directly over and parallel with the top or edge of the stake and the mallet is used to fold the tin, the mallet blows being directed at the top of the stake as shown inFig. 56.

The hatchet stake is a very handy tool about the shop, even if a folder is included in the equipment,as there are some jobs that will not permit the use of the folder to complete them.

Strips of tin as long as the blade of the hatchet stake may be accurately folded over as follows:

A strip of maple 1 inch thick and 2 inches wide and as long as the blade of the stake may be clamped against the flat side of the blade of the hatchet stake with the tin to be folded held tightly between the maple strip and the blade. The mallet is then used to fold the tin over toward the sloping side of the blade,Fig. 57. Sometimes two strips of maple may be clamped to a piece of tin to hold it accurately while being folded, but this method is rather cumbersome.

Fig. 56.Fig. 57.

Fig. 56.

Fig. 57.

The different methods of folding have been describedat length so that the reader may become familiar with all of them, but a great deal of folding may be done over a sharp-edged maple block, if you have nothing else with which to work.

Professional tinners use a very convenient folding machine made of metal, but these are very costly and need not be described here.

MAKING THE HOOD AND RADIATOR—CUTTING THE VENTS—SOLDERING ON THE FILLER CAP

The hood and radiator may be made from a cocoa tin, a small olive oil or cooking oil can, provided that the can is shaped as shown inFig. 58, which shows the bottom and sides of a cocoa tin.

The can is first cut down to the dotted lineA. Then the can is cut at the dotted lineB. Then some holes are punched in regular rows in the bottom of the can to produce the radiator. Slits are cut in the side of the can to form vents and a cap from a tooth-paste or paint tube is soldered on near the rolled rim for a filler cap and the hood is complete as shown inFig. 59.

The rectangular can selected for the hood is marked and cut to shape as follows: Open the dividers to 2⅝ inches and mark the lineAaround the can,Fig. 58. Before cutting the can down to this line set the dividers to 2¼ inches and mark the lineBhorizontally around the can. To do this, rest the can flat on the bench and on the side that is to form the top of the hood. Rest one point of the dividers on the bench and let the other point restagainst the side of the can where the dotted lineBis indicated. Still holding the can flat on the bench, move it against the divider point in such a manner that the lineBis scribed horizontally around the sides and bottom of the can.

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