Fig. 58.Fig. 59.
Fig. 58.
Fig. 58.
Fig. 59.
Fig. 59.
Cut the can down to the lineA, then take up a small sharp-cornered file and file completely through the rolled rim at the corners markedCandCon the lineB. Use the edge of the file and make a triangular cut. This filing will greatly simplify cutting the rolled rim which is hard to cut through with the shears.
Then cut into the rim on the lineB, cutting from the lineA. Bend the two halves of the can open far enough to admit the shears and cut across the bottom of the can on the dotted lineB. Cut verycarefully so that the part of the can at the lineB, forming the bottom of the hood, will rest flat on the bench all around. If it rests flat on the bench, it will rest flat on the tin frame of the truck where it is to be soldered in place.
The next thing to do is to punch the holes to form the radiator. The front of the hood is rested on a block of wood and a very sharp punch should be used for punching the holes, such as an ice pick or a very sharp-pointed nail.
First mark off the radiator in regular squares, using the depressed line usually found in the bottom of this type of can as a boundary line for the squares. Divide up the space into squares as indicated in Fig. 60,A, leaving a clear border of tin all around the space to be punched.
Find a block of wood that will fit inside the hood as shown inFig. 60,C, and place one end of this in the vise. See that the end is sawn off square before placing the hood over it in the position shown.
Take up the punch and carefully punch the holes as they are marked by the dots inFig. 60,A, at each line intersection. Then punch a hole in the center of each square and then a hole should be punched between every other hole on all the lines forming the squares, seeFig. 60,B.
Care should be taken to punch all the holes of the same size and to get them in regular rows. This makes a neat and workman-like job.
Cutting the Vents.—Vents may be cut in each side of the hood with a sharp chisel. An old wood or carpenter’s chisel about an inch wide will do very well or a sharp cold chisel may be used.
Fig. 60.
Fig. 60.
Use the same wooden block that you used topunch out the radiator on and place it horizontally in the vise jaws so that enough of it projects beyond them to support the hood as shown inFig. 61.
Fig. 61.
Fig. 61.
Use the dividers to mark off four or five vents and see to it that they are laid out square with the hood. Try to find a chisel that is as wide as the vent is long, a 1-inch cutting edge is about right. Place the edge of the chisel squarely on the markand hammer it through the tin with several blows from the mallet. Make these cuts very straight and parallel with each other. Cut the vents in both sides of the hood and the hood is then ready to have the filler cap soldered on.
Soldering on the Filler Cap.—Use a large sized screw cap of a tooth-paste tube or the cap from a paste or paint tube for the filler cap. Some of these caps are octagonal in shape and have various initials stamped on the top and these look very much like the filler caps used on the radiators of real automobiles.
Clean away all paste or paint from the inside of the cap and then scrape the lower edge bright and clean. These caps are usually made of a combination of metals that is very much like the solder used for soldering tin and they will melt very easily if brought in contact with a soldering copper, so that the cap must be soldered to the hood by an indirect heating method.
Soldering paste is first applied to the top of the hood where the cap is to be soldered and then a small puddle of solder is applied to the tin at this place with a hot soldering copper. The solder is allowed to cool and then the cap is placed in position on the solder after applying a bit of soldering paste to its lower edge.
Heat the soldering copper very hot and apply itinsidethe hood so that as much of the point aspossible restsdirectly under the puddle of solder on which the cap rests,Fig. 62.
Fig. 62.
Fig. 62.
Hold it in this position until the puddle of solder melts and a bright line of solder is seen to run around the base of the cap where it rests on the hood. Remove the copper just as soon as the solder melts and runs around the cap and let the solder harden before moving the hood about. If the cap moves out of place while the solder is molten, owing to the bubbling of the soldering paste, it may immediately be pushed back into place with a matchstick before the solder hardens.
The hood will become very hot before the solder melts under the cap, but it may be easily held to the bench by wrapping a rag around it to protect the hand.
A thick square bar of iron may be heated to a dull red at the end and used in place of the soldering copper for soldering on the cap. Either the copper or the bar of iron must be very hot. They must be heated to a much greater temperature than ordinarily used for soldering.
When the filler cap is soldered in place the hood is ready to be soldered to the frame, but the dash-board and seat should be made before this is done.
THE DASH-BOARD—THE SEAT—ASSEMBLING THE TRUCK—SPRINGS—SOLDERING THE WHEELS ON THE AXLES—STRIP WASHERS
THE DASH-BOARD—THE SEAT—ASSEMBLING THE TRUCK—SPRINGS—SOLDERING THE WHEELS ON THE AXLES—STRIP WASHERS
The Dash-Board.—The dash-board is the next thing to be made, and then the seat. The hood, dash-board and seat are then soldered to the frame. Four imitation springs are then made and soldered to the bottom of the frame; holes are punched in these for axles; the wheels and axles are put in place, and the chassis of the truck is finished.
The dash-board may be formed in two ways; one way is to use part of a rolled-rim can, the rolled rim forming the top, and the other way is to fold over three edges of a piece of tin and form this into a dash-board. The first method looks better, but the last method is easier.
Select a large rolled-rim can, measure off 5¼ inches along the rolled rim and from each end of this measurement, run a line 2¼ inches down the side of the can. Then mark a line around the can 2½ inches down from the rolled rim and cut the can down to this line exactly as you would cut a can down to any line, seeFig. 63.
Then cut out the piece 2½ by 5¼ inches including the rim. Use the flat-nosed pliers and break away the tin next the rim where the can was first opened with the can opener, just as you did when making a pail. Hammer down any tin left next the rim and then place the piece of tin on the bench or flat anvil and flatten it down, rolled rim and all.
Fig. 63.
Fig. 63.
Use the dividers to mark off ¼ inch along the two short ends of the piece at right angles to the rim, then use a file to cut off ¼ inch at each end of the rolled rim. Cut in on each of the darkened linesA Ato the linesBjust under the rolled rim,Fig. 64. Then fold the metal in between the linesBandCto give a rounded edge to the sides of the dash-board, as shown inFig. 65.
Place a piece of round bar iron or a pipe about 1 inch in diameter in the vise and round over each end of the dash-board so that the folded edges are inside as shown inFig. 65, and then round over the ends of the rolled rim with a flat file to make them smooth and the dash-board is finished.
Fig. 64.Fig. 65.
Fig. 64.
Fig. 64.
Fig. 65.
Fig. 65.
Fig. 66.Fig. 67.
Fig. 66.
Fig. 66.
Fig. 67.
Fig. 67.
To make a dash-board out of a flat piece of tin, cut out a piece 2¾ by 5¼ inches. Set the dividers to ¼ inch and scribe a line ¼ inch inside three edgesof the piece. Cut off two corners at the top and fold in the flaps to the dotted line as shown inFig. 66. Round over the ends of the dash-board as described above and to the same dimensions.
The Seat.—A very simple seat may be made for the truck out of three pieces of tin. Use a piece of tin with the rolled rim at the top as in making the dash-board. Cut a piece of tin 3¼ by 3½ inches, fold in two of the sides exactly as you did for the dash-board and cut off the rolled rim until it is even with the sides after turning and round over the ends of the rolled rim with a file.
Use the dividers to mark two lines parallel with the rolled rim, one line 1 inch in and the other 2â…› inches as shown inFig. 67by the dotted lines. Bend the piece over a block as shown until it is shaped like the seat shown inFig. 68.
Cut two pieces of tin 1⅜ by 1¼ inches. Mark a line ¼ inch in from the ends of one of the short sides of each piece and bend this part at right angles,Fig. 68,A. These two pieces are to be slipped under each end of the seat and soldered to it and then trimmed off with the shears until the whole bottom edge of the seat rests flat on the frame where it is to be soldered.
The two side pieces or supports are made too long purposely so that they may be trimmed off after they are soldered to the seat. The hood, dash-board and seat should be soldered in place.
Assembling the Truck.—Set the dividers to ¼ inch and scribe a line ¼ inch in from the front end of the frame. Place the front of the hood parallel with this line and see that the hood is set exactly in the middle of the frame; that it is set at the same distance from the side of the hood to the side of the frame on each side. Solder the hood in place.
Fig. 68.Fig. 69.
Fig. 68.
Fig. 68.
Fig. 69.
Fig. 69.
When soldering the hood to the frame, it is better to rest the frame on a block of wood so that the block supports the frame that is directly under the hood when soldering the hood to the frame.
The block will prevent the tin from bulging down from the heat of the copper and from the pressure of the hand when holding the hood in place to solder it.
Set the dash-board in place back of the hood and see that it fits snugly in place against the hood and also the frame and then solder it in place. If every joint is made to fit snugly before attempting to solder it, no trouble should be experienced, but sometimes a crack will develop owing to the expansion of the tin under heat of the soldering copper. These cracks may be filled in with solder by feeding a strip of solder against the point of the hot copper when soldering. This causes a lot of solder to run into the crack and fill it.
Solder the seat in position so that the front of the seat is about 1 inch from the ends of the dash-board.
Springs.—Holes may be punched through the sides of the frame and the axles run through them if a very simple truck is to be made, but imitation springs may be easily made from part of the sides and bottom of a can. These springs raise the frame of the truck above the axles and give it a more realistic appearance.
Cut two three-inch cans down to ⅜ inch in height. Turn these cans bottom up and place the ruler across the rim of each can bottom in turn in such a way as to measure 2½ inches from rim to rim. Then measure off another 2½ inches on each rim as shown inFig. 69. File through the rims atA Aand then cut straight down the sides of the can atA A Awhich should give you three springs from each can.
Solder two springs to the bottom and side of the frame ½ inch from the front end and the two rear springs should be soldered 1 inch in from the back end.
Use an ice pick to punch a hole in each spring to receive the axle and be sure that these holes are all the same distance from the top of the frame (use the dividers to determine this), and also that each hole is square across from the opposite axle hole (use the try square to determine this).
The axle holes should be punched through with an ice pick and be made somewhat larger than the axle wire so that the axle wire fits very loosely in the hole, but be sure to have all the holes the same size.
Soldering the Wheels on the Axles.—The wire axles should be cut long enough to go entirely through each wheel and across the frame and to allow a distance of ¼ inch between the frame of the truck and each wheel. The length of the axles may be easily determined by placing the frame of the truck flat on the bench and placing the two wheels in position, each wheel to stand out ¼ inch from the side of the truck. Measure the distance with a ruler from the outer edge of one wheel to the outer edge of the other and add ⅛ inch to this distance, seeFig. 70. Cut the two wire axles to this measurement and see that they are perfectly straight after cutting.
Place one end of an axle through a wheel until the end of it projects beyond the outside of the wheel about â…Ÿâ‚₆ of an inch. Put some soldering paste on the end of the axle and on the wheel next to the axle and use a well-heated soldering copper to solder the wheel to the axle.
Fig. 70.Fig. 71.
Fig. 70.
Fig. 70.
Fig. 71.
Fig. 71.
To do this, place the wheel flat on the edge of the bench so that the axle hole is just over the edge and so that the axle may be held against the side of the bench. Hold the wheel and axle firmly in this position and lay the hot soldering copper, well charged with solder, on the end of the axle wire just above the wheel.
The end of the axle will heat up very quickly and the solder should run down and form a puddle about the axle when that part of the wheel next the axle is heated up to the flowing point of the solder. The end of the axle should not project more than â…Ÿâ‚₆ inch beyond the wheel and the soldering coppershould be heated thoroughly and be well charged with solder, seeFig. 71.
The wheels need only be soldered to the axle on one side of each wheel if the holes for the axle fit it very snugly.
Another method of holding the wheel in position on the axle while being soldered is to drill a hole exactly the same size as the axle through a fairly thick block of wood and to push the axle through this hole until just enough of it projects so that when the wheel is slipped over it â…Ÿâ‚₆ inch of the axle will project beyond the wheel. The wooden block may then be placed in the vise and the wheel slipped over the axle and soldered to it. The hole drilled through the block must be drilled at right angles to the face of the block where the wheel is to rest. A hole may be drilled at right angles to a wood or metal surface by using a bench or post drill if you have one. Wheels may be set on the axle very accurately by this last method.
When one wheel is soldered to each axle lay them aside and make some washers for the axles before the two remaining wheels are soldered on. These washers are placed on the axles between the frame and each wheel to keep the wheels from running against the truck.
Strip Washers.—These washers may be made from narrow strips of tin wound around the axles like a tightly coiled clock spring.
Cut a strip of tin ³â„â‚₆ of an inch wide and 8 inches long. Take a pair of round-nosed pliers and bend one end over at a sharp curve that fits about the axle wire. Hold the curved part of the tin to the axle with the flat-nosed pliers and wind the tin around the wire in a right coil taking fresh grip on the tin strip with the pliers each time the tin is wound around. Wind the tin about the axle four times and then cut the remaining tin away and use it to make the other three washers, seeFig. 72.
Fig. 72.Fig. 73.
Fig. 72.
Fig. 72.
Fig. 73.
Fig. 73.
Slip one washer on one of the axles next to one of the wheels soldered to it; then push the axle through the axle holes in the springs and then place another washer on it before placing another or second wheel on the axle.
The washers are not soldered in place but simply left loose on the axle.
The second wheel is placed on the axle and solderedto it as the first wheel was. The truck may be placed on its side to bring the second wheel into a convenient position for soldering. Be sure that the axle turns easily in the axle holes and that there is plenty of room for the washers between the sides of the frame and the wheel before soldering the second wheel in place. The second wheel may be soldered on the second axle in the same way and then the chassis is finished and ready to run, seeFig. 73.
Various bodies may be placed on the rear of the chassis and a steering wheel, crank and lights may be added when it is thus far successfully completed, and these will be described in the next chapter.
Do not be discouraged if you have managed to get more solder about the truck than seems necessary, as it may be scraped away as described inChapter XXI, page 200.
TRUCK BODIES—DIFFERENT TYPES OF BODIES TO BE FITTED TO THE SAME CHASSIS—THE TANK TRUCK—THE STREET SPRINKLER—THE COAL OR SAND TRUCK—THE ARMY TRUCK—THE AMBULANCE—THE FIRE ENGINE
TRUCK BODIES—DIFFERENT TYPES OF BODIES TO BE FITTED TO THE SAME CHASSIS—THE TANK TRUCK—THE STREET SPRINKLER—THE COAL OR SAND TRUCK—THE ARMY TRUCK—THE AMBULANCE—THE FIRE ENGINE
A permanent body of a certain type may be soldered directly to the rear part of the chassis or slides may be soldered to the rear part of the chassis and different types of truck bodies arranged to fit into these slides so that one chassis may be arranged to hold a number of different bodies. A coal truck may be transformed into a tank truck and from a tank truck into an army truck or an ambulance, etc.
A driver’s cab may be fitted over the seat and any number of realistic details added to the truck, limited only by the ability of the maker.
The wagon body is the simplest to make, as it may be made from a square can with rounded corners. The two quart or gallon cans that have contained olive or cooking oils make up into very realistic truck bodies. The body of the army truck shown in the frontispiece was made from a two-quartcan that had contained a cooking oil of a very well-known brand.
Fig. 74.
Fig. 74.
The object is to find a rectangular can that is just about the width of the chassis so that the tops of the wheels will clear it nicely. Cut the can in two lengthwise, using the file to cut through the rounded or rolled rims, seeFig. 74,A.
The can will probably be too long for a wellproportioned body and will have to be cut down to a suitable length, about 7 inches. Truck bodies usually overhang the chassis. Study some of the big trucks seen on the streets, as some of them are remarkably easy to reproduce.
If the can has to be shortened, use a can opener or the double cutting shears and cut around the can 1 inch from either end until one end of the can is completely cut away, then cut the shorter end down to ¼ inch at the side, leaving that much of the side of the can so that it may be slipped inside the other or larger part of the can when that part of the can is cut down to a suitable length, when the shorter end is soldered in place to form the end of the body, seeFig. 74,B.
When one end is cut off the can, cut the can in two lengthwise so that the part to be used is about 1½ inches high, and then cut off the shorter end so that it is also 1½ inches high to correspond to the other part of the body. Then fit in the end of the can and solder it in place.
Cut four strips of tin ½ inch in width, two of them as long as the two sides of the can and two as long as the ends and fold these strips over to make a protection for the top edges of the body just as you did for the lower edges of the chassis. Solder these strips in place and the body is finished and ready to be soldered to the truck, seeFig. 74,C.
Different Types of Bodies to be Fitted to the Same Chassis.—The body described above may be soldered directly to the chassis of the truck or to a strip of tin and so arranged as to slide onto the chassis between two slides made of folded tin. These slides are soldered directly to the chassis in the rear of the seat and the different types of bodies arranged to fit between them, thus using the same chassis for as many different types of bodies as one cares to make for it.
The fixed slides should be made of two ½-inch strips of tin as long as the back or floor of the chassis, about 6 inches. These strips are folded over into a gutter shape as are the strips used to protect the bottom edge of the truck frame, but the folded strips used for the slides are left somewhat more open, about ⅛ inch between the edges, so that when soldered to the truck a strip of tin may be easily slipped between them as shown inFig. 75.
A flat strip of tin should be cut as long as the two slides and of such a width that it will fit easily into the slides soldered to the truck to receive it. Care should be used when soldering the slides to the truck to get them parallel with the sides of the frame and also parallel with each other as shown inFig. 75.
Several cross-members may be made of folded tin and may be soldered to the flat piece of tin that is to slide between the slides. The truck body shouldbe soldered to these cross-members so that the body will clear the fixed slides when slipped into place.
These cross-members or body supports are usually found under the bodies of large trucks and they add a very realistic touch to the model. They should be just long enough to clear the edges of the fixed slides when attached to the flat strip of tin.
Fig. 75.
Fig. 75.
Cut three pieces of tin 1¼ inches wide and long enough to make the cross-members, about 3 inches (make sure of this measurement for yourself). Scribe a line ⅜ inch in from each of the long sides of the three pieces and then fold down two sides of each piece from the scribed lines, making three cross-members or supports as shown inFig. 76. Solder these to the flat strip of tin that is to fit betweenthe fixed slides. The truck body should be soldered to these three supports.
A round can with the lid soldered on will make a very satisfactory tank truck. A part of a small can, such as a tooth powder can, may be soldered to the top of the tank for a filler dome and imitation faucets made of wire or of brass cup hooks may be soldered to the rear of the tank and a small delivery can may easily be made and hung on the faucets as shown inPlate XIII.
Fig. 76.
Fig. 76.
Six different types of truck bodies that may be attached to the chassis are shown inFig. 77.
The Tank Truck.—The tank truck is made from a rectangular cooking oil can with a part of a small can soldered to the top. The faucets are made of pieces of galvanized wire bent over at an angle.
The Street Sprinkler.—The street sprinkler may be made from a large round can, such as a molasses or syrup can with the lid soldered on to make it water tight. A hole is cut in the top of the can andthe top, or open end, of a small soup can is soldered over the hole. The sprinkler tubes are made of strips of tin rolled around a large nail and then soldered together.
Fig. 77.
Fig. 77.
PLATE XIIIOil tank truck made by Miss Nell Guilbert, Teachers CollegeToy Ford made by authorRear view of toy Ford made by author. Tires are made of teething rings
PLATE XIII
Oil tank truck made by Miss Nell Guilbert, Teachers College
Toy Ford made by author
Rear view of toy Ford made by author. Tires are made of teething rings
PLATE XIVRed Cross ambulance made by Miss Frances JonesRear of Red Cross ambulance made by Miss Jones
PLATE XIV
Red Cross ambulance made by Miss Frances Jones
Rear of Red Cross ambulance made by Miss Jones
The sprinkler ends are made of small round metal boxes with tiny holes punched in the under side. A hole is punched in the top of each round box and the sprinkler ends are soldered to the tubes and the tubes soldered to the tank which has holes punched in it to admit water to the tubes in such a way that the water contained in the tank will flow from the tank into the tubes and out of the sprinkler holes punched in the small boxes. These small boxes or sprinkler ends may be made of thumb tack boxes or from two bottle caps soldered together, but the crinkled part should be cut away from the bottle caps before soldering.
The Coal or Sand Truck.—The coal or sand truck body is made of less than half of a rectangular cooking oil can, the top of each side flared out and extra pieces fitted to each end so as to fit into the flaring sides and to each end. All sharp edges should be folded over or extra folded strips of tin folded over and placed over the edges of the truck body.
The Army Truck.—The army truck body is made from part of a cooking oil can. Galvanized wire of small diameter is bent into hoop form and soldered to the sides. These hoops may be covered with a khaki-colored cloth like the one shown on the large army truck in frontispiece; a khaki-colored handkerchief will make an excellent cover for a small truck.
Fig. 78.
Fig. 78.
The Ambulance.—The ambulance body may be made from a large cooking oil can. Both ends are cut out of the can and the extra tin trimmed away.One side of the can is cut off and a flat piece of tin soldered across the open side of the can to form the floor of the ambulance. A hood to cover the driver’s seat is made from the curved side of the can cut away to form the floor of the body. Two strips of tin may be soldered to the side of the body to form seats or stretchers and two pieces of galvanized wire may be soldered to the seats and to the floor and roof of the body to form handles. The rear step may be made of a piece of folded tin and two pieces of galvanized wire as shown. A realistic touch may be given to the ambulance by making a small curtain of carriage leather and attaching it to the rear of the roof so that it may be rolled up and fastened in place.
The Fire Engine.—The fire engine boiler may be made from a tomato can with several different sized can lids soldered to the bottom to form the smoke hood and a cylinder of tin soldered to the lids to form a chimney. The flaring top of the chimney may be made of the small center lid sometimes found in the ends of round cans. This small lid or sealer may be melted off, the center cut out of it, and then may be soldered to the top of the chimney. The steam gauge and water gauge may be made of the screw tops of cooking oil cans. The water glass may be made of a small piece of galvanized wire and the try cocks of rivets soldered to theboiler. The rivets may be held in place while soldering by a pair of pliers.
The boiler platform may be made of a sardine can. The engine and pump cylinders may be made of adhesive tape boxes or strips of tin rolled into cylindrical form and ends soldered in place. The engine wheel may be made from an evaporated milk can. The air chamber may be made from a nickeled shaving stick box or a brass curtain pole ball. The whistle may be made from a used .22 cartridge case, etc.
THE STARTING CRANK—THE STEERING WHEEL AND COLUMN—MUD GUARDS AND RUNNING BOARDS—LIGHTS, TOOL BOXES, HORNS, ETC.—DRIVERS’ CABS
THE STARTING CRANK—THE STEERING WHEEL AND COLUMN—MUD GUARDS AND RUNNING BOARDS—LIGHTS, TOOL BOXES, HORNS, ETC.—DRIVERS’ CABS
Various fittings may be added to the truck and these add very much to the general appearance and make the truck very realistic.
The Starting Crank.—A starting crank may be made of a piece of galvanized wire bent into a crank shape and placed in position through holes punched for it in front of the frame and through an extra piece soldered underneath the frame.
Cut a piece of galvanized wire about 5 inches in length. Fairly heavy wire will look better than thin wire when made up into a crank. Mark off 1 inch from one end of the wire and then make another mark 1 inch in from this one. Place the wire in the vise jaws so that the first mark is parallel with the top of the jaws. Use a hammer to bend the wire over at right angles, then move the wire up to the second mark and bend the wire again at right angles so as to produce a crank form as shown inFig. 79.
Use an ice pick to punch a hole in the front of the truck frame and make it large enough so that the crank will turn in it freely.
Cut a piece of tin ¾ by ¾ inches and bend over ¼ inch at one end and punch a hole to fit the crank wire in the center of the largest side of this piece and solder it in position directly back of the hole punched in the front of the frame and in such a position that the end of the crank wire projects about ¼ inch beyond the small angle piece soldered to the frame, as shown inFig. 80.
Fig. 79.Fig. 80.Fig. 81.
Fig. 79.
Fig. 79.
Fig. 80.
Fig. 80.
Fig. 81.
Fig. 81.
Wind a narrow strip of tin about the straight projecting end of the crank wire and solder it in place, the solder being applied to the end of the wire and to the end of the coiled strip of tin at the same time,Fig. 81.
The Steering Wheel and Column.—A steering wheel may be made of an old clock gear wheel with the teeth cut off, or a small can lid may be used instead. The steering wheel column may be made of a piece of heavy galvanized wire.
Clock gear wheels are usually fastened to a short steel shaft, but they may be easily driven off the shaft by placing the shaft of the wheel in the vise jaws so that the wheel is above the vise jaws, and then a few light hammer blows directed at the upper end of the shaft will loosen the wheel and it may be easily removed. The vise jaws should hold the shaft very loosely as it is being driven out of the wheel.
Use the metal shears to cut off the gear teeth and a smooth flat file to file down the roughness left at the edge of the wheel.
Find a piece of galvanized wire that fits into the hole in the clock wheel or file a larger piece down until it does fit. The wire should project slightly beyond the wheel and be soldered to it in exactly the same manner as the tin can wheel is soldered to an axle. The wire that the steering gear is soldered to should be long enough to go through the dash-board, hood and frame, if the wheel is to turn. A strip of tin is coiled about the wire below the frame as shown inFig. 82. These are soldered in place to the wire to keep it in position and yet allow it to turn freely in the holes.
Mud Guards and Running Boards.—Mud guards may be made from a part of the side and bottom of a can as shown inFig. 83. A 3-inch can is the best size to use for the truck. The can is cut down to a height of 1⅛ inches and then cut into two parts across the bottom so that two mud guards may be made from each can. The outer edges are turned as in making a tray and folded pieces are slipped over the ends as shown inFig. 83. These mud guards are soldered to the frame in the position shown.
Fig. 82.
Fig. 82.
Running boards may be made of two pieces of tin, each piece to be cut 1¼ inches wide and as long as it is desired. The four pieces are each turned down ⅛ inch at the long sides and two pieces are fitted over each other to make one running boardas shown inFig. 84. Two or three supports may be made of galvanized wire for the running boards. These supports extend across the frame of the truck and one end of each support is soldered to each running board. One end of each running board is usually soldered to each mud guard.
Fig. 83.
Fig. 83.
Lights, Horns, etc.—Headlights may be made of thumb tack boxes, bottle caps or the tops of tooth powder cans. Sidelights may be made from the screw caps of cooking oil cans or the cylindrical part of tooth powder can tops.
Tail-lights may be made of the screw caps of cooking oil cans.
Searchlights may be made of the smallest size adhesive tape boxes mounted on suitable standards made of galvanized wire or strips of tin.
Fig. 84.
Fig. 84.
The central part of the cover of these boxes is cut away and a piece of isinglass or transparent celluloid may be fitted in to look like a lens. The central part is cut away by using a small chisel to cut with when the cover is placed over the end of a round stick held in the vise. The rough edges are smoothed away by using a smooth half-round file.
The construction of these lights is so simple as to need no further explanation and they are simply soldered to the frame or hood where they touch it when placed in position. The searchlight is usually mounted by punching a hole for the standard in thecowl, or by soldering on an extra piece to the dash to receive the wire standard,Fig. 85.
Fig. 85.
Fig. 85.
Tool Boxes, Horns, etc.—Small rectangular beefcube or chewing gum boxes may be soldered to the running board for tool boxes. These boxes have rounded corners and look very much like the large tool boxes,Fig. 85.