Theacquaintanceship of foreign residents is of considerable service to English people purposing to winter abroad, or to remain for any length of time in a continental city, as by its means they obtain an entrance into foreign society. An introduction to the English Ambassador or Minister at a foreign Court is of still greater service in this matter.
People of recognised position in society have the privilege of leaving cards at the English Embassy at any foreign city in which they intend making a temporary stay.
So thoroughly is the position of English travellers known to the English Ministry at a foreign Court, that should a person, who is not received in English society, leave cards at the English Embassy, they would be at once returned as an intimation that the acquaintance is declined.
It is erroneous to suppose that by leaving cards upon foreigners of distinction, an acquaintanceship can be commenced, for unless introductions have been formally made, leaving cards is a useless proceeding.
At far-away spots little frequented by the general run of travellers, and where there are but few, if any, resident English, travellers requiring advice or assistance from the English consul, can, without an introduction, call upon him, nationality being the ground upon which to do this, and if of equal social standing, they would be received with socialconsideration; if otherwise, all assistance would be given to them from an official point of view. Many people when travelling abroad make pleasant acquaintances even without the help of introductions, the occasion of a meeting being as it were a semi-introduction in itself.
Such casual acquaintanceships are, however, attended with certain risks, especially to persons who have been absent from England some little time, or who when in England have entered comparatively but little in society, and who are thus apt to drift unawares into close friendships with people perhaps well bred and agreeable, although tabooed at home for some good and sufficient reason.Contretempssuch as these are painful to kind-hearted people when subsequently compelled to avoid and to relinquish the acquaintance of those with whom they have become pleasantly intimate. An introduction to an English resident in either town or city obviates any unpleasantness of this nature, as one so situated is generally keptau courantwith all that takes place in society at home.
When persons desire to enter into society abroadthey endeavour to obtain letters of introduction from friends and acquaintances to residents in the cities they purpose visiting.
Unless English travellers have been duly presented at the Court of St James's, they cannot obtain presentations at foreign Courts through the English Embassies.
When a lady desires a presentation at a foreign Court, she should write to the English Ambassadress and request the honour of a presentation, and should state the date of her presentation and the name of the lady by whom she was presented. After her statement has been duly verified the request is granted. In a like manner when a gentleman desires a presentation at a foreign Court, he should write to the Ambassador and request the honour of a presentation, and should state the date of the Levée at which he waspresented, and the name of the person by whom the presentation was made.
Presentations at foreign Courts take place in the evening, and the persons to be presented, and those who attend, assemble previous to the entrance of the royal personages: the rule is for the grandmaîtresseto present each lady in turn to her royal mistress, who makes the tour of the apartment for this purpose, and addresses some courteous observation to each.
Thereare, perhaps, two reasons why various surnames are so frequently mispronounced, the one being unfamiliarity with the freak of fashion which governs the pronunciation of certain well-known names, the other ignorance, or want of education.
When sensitive persons hear a name pronounced differently from the way in which they have themselves but just pronounced it, and in a tone and manner strongly suggestive of correction, it is wounding to theiramour propre.
As a rule, when persons are in doubt as to the correct pronunciation of any particular name, it would be best to avoid mentioning it, if possible, until their doubts are set at rest by some one better informed than themselves.
Names that have a fashionable or peculiar pronunciation, or are pronounced otherwise than as they are spelt, are but few, and names which it is possible wrongly to accent are also not very numerous; but it is surprising how often these names occur in the course of conversation.
The names of distinguished artists that are open to mispronunciation occur far oftener in conversation than do the general run of uncommon surnames.
There are many celebrated hunts and hunting quarters of which the names are open to considerable mispronunciation.
With regard to placing the accent on the wrong syllable in the pronunciation of names, it requires but little thought to avoid making this mistake, a popular error beingthat of placing the accent upon the last syllable of a name; whereas, in a name of two syllables, the accent should invariably be placed upon the first, and the second syllable should be as it were slightly abbreviated or slightly altered.
In names of three syllables the error usually consists in placing the accent upon the last syllable, whereas the accent should be placed upon the second syllable. There are occasional exceptions to this rule, and the few names given in this chapter, both as regards their pronunciation and accentuation, will serve as a useful guide in the pronunciation of uncommon names.
SPELT.PRONOUNCED.REMARKS.Abergavenny.Abergen'ny.Avnot sounded.Arbuthnot.Arbuth'not.Arundel.Arrandel.Beaconsfield.Beckonsfield.Beauchamp.Bea'cham.Beauclerk or Beauclerc.Bo'clair.Accent on first syllable.Belvoir.Be'ver.Berkely.Bark'ley.Bethune.Bee'ton.Bicester.Bis'ter.Accent on first syllable.Blount.Blunt.Blyth.Bly.Thnot sounded.Bourke.Burk.Bourne.Burn.Bowles.Boles.Breadalbane.Breaddal'bane.Accent on second syllable.Brougham.Broum.Buchan.Buck'an.Accent on first syllable.Burdett.Burdett'.Accent on last syllable.Burnett.Burnett'.Accent on last syllable.Bury.Berry.Calderon.Cal'dron not Cauldron.Charteris.Charters.Cholmeley.Chum'ley.Cholmondeley."Cirencester.Cis'ester.Accent on first syllable.Clanricarde.Clanrecarde.Accent on second syllable.Cockburn.Cōburn.Cknot sounded.Colquhoun.Kohoon'.Accent on last syllable.Conynham.Cunyingham.Coutts.Koots.Cowper.Cooper.Dalziel.Dee'al.Accent on first syllable.Derby.Darby.Des Vaux.Deveu.Thexnot sounded.Devereux.Devereu.Thexnot sounded.Dillwyn.Dil'lun.Thewytakes the sound ofu; the accent on first syllable.Duchesne.Dukarn.Du Plat.Du Plar.Elgin.Theghard as in give.Eyre.Air.Fildes.Filedes.NotFilldes.Fortescue.Fort'iskew.Geoffrey.Jefrey.Geoghegan.Gaygan.Gifford.Jifford.Thegsoft as in George.Gillett.Ghard as in Gilbert.Gillott.Ghard.Glamis.Glarms.Gorges.Gor'jes.Firstghard and secondgsoft.Gough.Goff.Gower.Gor.But Gower as regards the street of that name with the general public.Harcourt.Har'kut.Accent on first syllable.Heathcote.Heth'kut.Hertford.Har'ford.Home.Hume.Hughes.Hews.Jervis.Jarvis.Johnstone.Thetnot sounded.Kennaird.Kennaird'.Accent on last syllable.Kennard.Kennard'.Accent on last syllable.Ker.Kar.Knollys.Knowls.Layard.Laird.Leconfield.Lek'onfield.Lefevre.Lefavre.Leigh.Lee.Lyvedon.Livden.Macnamara.Macnemar'ar.Accent on third syllable.Mainwaring.Man'nering.Marjoribanks.Marshbanks.McIntosh.Makintosh.McLeod.McCloud.Menzies.Myng'es.Accent on first syllable.Meux.Mews.Thexsounded ass.Millais.Mil'lay.Accent on first syllable.Milnes.Mills.Molyneux.Thexsounded, with slight accent on last syllable.Monck.Munk.Monckton.Munk'ton.Accent on first syllable.Monson.Munson.Montgomerie or Montgomery.Mungum'ery.Accent on second syllable.Mowbray.Mobrey.Nigel.Ni'jel.Ouless.Ooless.Parnell.Parnell'.Accent on last syllable.Pepys.Pep'is.Accent on first syllable.Pierrepont.Pierpont.Ponsonby.Punsonby.Pontefract.Pomfret.Pugh.Pew.Pytchley.Pȳtch'ley.Not Pitchley.Ruthven.Riv'en.Sandys.Sands.St. Clair.Sinclair.St. Maur.See'mor, or S'nt Maur.St. John.Sinjin.As regards christian and surname, but as St. John when applied to church or locality.Seymour.Sey'mer.Accent on first syllable.Strachan.Strawn.Tadema.Tad'ymar.Accent on first syllable.Tollemache.Tollmash.Trafalgar.Trafalgar'.Accent on last syllable; as regards the peer of that name, not otherwise.Tredegar.Trede'gar.Accent on second syllable.Tremayne.Tremayne'.Accent on last syllable.Tyrrwhitt.Tirritt.Vaughan.Vorn.Vaux.Thexsounded.Villbois.Vealbwor.Villiers.Vil'lers.Waldegrave.Wal'grave.Thedenot sounded.Wemyss.Weems.Willoughby D'Eresby.Willowby D'Ersby.
Courtsare now held in lieu of Drawing-rooms by Their Majesties the King and Queen at Buckingham Palace, and at which Presentations to Their Majesties are made.
These Courts are held in the evenings at ten o'clock, but the hour at which the company should commence to arrive is intimated by the Lord Chamberlain in the notice issued of the Courts to be held.
Two Courts are usually, but not invariably, held before Easter, and two more after Easter.
Ladies who have been presented at Drawing-rooms and Courts, held during the last two reigns, do not require to be again presented to Their Majesties the King and Queen; thus, ladies who have already been presented at these Drawing-rooms, and who are desirous of being invited to one or other of these Courts, and who are also desirous of making presentations, should send in their names and the names of those to be presented by them to the Lord Chamberlain, St. James's Palace, S.W., on the 1st of January in each year, but not before that date.
Ladies are also privileged to mention at the same time when it will be most convenient to them to pay their respects to Their Majesties. If it should not be convenient for a lady to attend or be presented at the particular Court to which she is invited, it will be open to her to make her excuses to the Lord Chamberlain in writing, when hername can, if desired, and if possible, be transferred to another list.
A lady who makes a presentation to Their Majesties, must be personally acquainted with and responsible for the lady she presents. She must herself attend the Court, and cannot present more than one lady in addition to her daughter or daughter-in-law. The numbers received at each Court being necessarily limited, ladies can only receive occasional invitations. Therefore, those who cannot be included in the year's list of invitations will receive an intimation to this effect from the Lord Chamberlain in answer to their applications to attend.
The Persons entitled to be presented at Their Majesties' Courtsare the wives and daughters of the members of the aristocracy, the wives and daughters of those holding high official appointments in the Government, the wives and daughters of Members of Parliament, the county gentry and town gentry, the wives and daughters of the members of the legal, military, naval, clerical, medical, and other professions, the wives and daughters of merchants, bankers, and members of the Stock Exchange, and persons engaged in commerce on a large scale.
Although the word "gentry" is thus elastic, and although persons coming within the category might be fairly entitled to the privilege of attending Courts, yet it is well understood that birth, wealth, associations, and position give araison d'êtrefor such privilege; as, for instance, the wife and daughters of an officer in the navy or a line regiment, whose means are slender, and whose position is obscure, would not be justified for these reasons in attending a Court, although the officer himself might attend a levée if desirous of doing so; and this remark equally applies to the wives and daughters of clergymen, barristers, and others similarly situated.
Presentations to Their Majestiesare made officially by the various foreign ambassadresses, by the wives of the members of the Cabinet, and by the wives of other official personages in various departments of the State, either civil, military, naval, or clerical.
Presentations at each of Their Majesties' Courts are now limited by royal command.
Presentations to Their Majesties should be made either by a relative or a friend of the lady presented who has herself been previously presented.
A lady has the privilege of presenting one lady only at a Court in addition to her daughter or daughter-in-law.
This restriction does not apply to ladies who, from official position or other circumstances, are specially privileged to make presentations to Their Majesties.
When a presentation is not made officially or by a near relative it is considered a favour on the part of the person making the presentation towards the person presented.
The responsibility of a presentation rests upon the person who makes it, both as to the social and moral fitness of the person presented; therefore, to solicit the favour of a presentation from a friend is to incur a considerable obligation, and it is a favour ladies have no hesitation in refusing unless good reasons exist for granting it.
When presentations are made through official channels the responsibility rests upon the "office" rather than upon the person making the presentation; hence presentations so made have little personal significance to the person making them.
A Lady having been presented on her Marriagehas the privilege of attending, by invitation, any subsequent Court, but ladies who have no official position will only be allowed to attend a Court by summons every third year. On the accession of her husband to any title, she would again have to be presented, and should she marrya second time another presentation would be necessary to entitle her to attend one of Their Majesties' Courts.
It is the Privilege of the Married Lady to make Presentations, but should any person be presented whose antecedents or present position renders her socially unqualified to be presented, the Lord Chamberlain, on becoming aware of the fact, would at once cancel the presentation, and officially announce it in theGazette, and the person making such presentation would be expected to tender an apology for so doing.
An Unmarried Lady does not possess the Privilegeof making a presentation, however high her rank may be. She is not permitted to attend any subsequent Courts after first presentation until three years have elapsed; save under exceptional circumstances.
Four Courts are held during each year at Buckingham Palace, two before and two after Easter, but due intimation is given previous to each Court being held by the Lord Chamberlain through the medium of the officialGazette, from whence it is copied into the newspapers.
The wives of members of the Cabinet and of the ambassadors or ministers at the Court of St. James's usually attend at each Court, and have the privilege of doing so by reason of the official presentations made by them at each Court.
It is compulsory for a Ladymaking a presentation to be herself present at the Court at which the presentation is to be made, though it is not necessary for her to accompany the person whom she presents, but simply to attend the same Court.
When a Lady intends making a Presentationshe should, on or after the 1st of January write to the LordChamberlain and inform him of a wish to attend a Court, and forward the name of the lady to be presented by her.
Ladies are not expectedto attend Court more than once in every three years, unless under exceptional circumstances.
A Lady attending a Courtmay present one lady in addition to her daughter or daughter-in-law.
A Lady presented for the First Timecan only present her daughter or daughter-in-law at the Court at which she is presented.
No Applications can be receivedfrom ladies who wish to be presented. Their names must be forwarded by the ladies who wish to make the presentations.
Summonses are issuedabout three weeks before the date of each Court.
Ladies may be accompanied to Court by their husbands if the latter have been presented, but gentlemen do not pass before the King and Queen. Ladies are requested to forward the names of their husbands at the same time as their own, in order that they may be submitted together, as once the summons has been issued the amending of a summons card in order to include a lady's husband can only be permitted under the most exceptional circumstances.
Those who have the Privilege of the Entréeenter at the gate of the Palace situated outside Buckingham Gate. Those who possess this privilege are the diplomatic circle, the Cabinet ministers and their wives, and the members of the Household. The rooms, two in number, next to the Presence Chamber, are appropriated to them. All who have the privilege of theentréeare received by Their Majesties before the general circle, and according to their individual precedency, and they have also the privilege of making the first presentations.
When a Lady arrives at the Palaceshe should leave her wraps in the cloak-room with one of the maids in attendance. After crossing the Great Hall, she then makes her way up the Grand Staircase to the Corridor, where she shows her invitation-card to the page-in-waiting, and then passes on to one of the saloons.
When a lady arrives early she gains admission to the saloon next to those reserved for theentrée. When she arrives late she has to take her place in a further room of the suite according to the number of persons present.
The gentlemen-at-arms stationed at the door of each room close the gilt barriers when they consider the saloons are full. Chairs and benches are placed in the corridor and in these saloons for the accommodation of ladies thus waiting their turn to enter the Throne-room or Presence Chamber.
As the ladies quit each room for the Presence Chamber, others take their places, and the barriers are again closed, and this is continued until every one has been received.
A lady has to pass through the twoentréesaloons before reaching the Picture Gallery.
At the door of the Picture Gallery a lady's train, which she has hitherto carried on her arm, is let down by two officials in attendance, and spread out by them with their wands; she should cross the gallery with her train down to the Presence Chamber, at the door of which she should give the card of invitation she has brought with her to the official stationed there to receive it.
A Lady on being presented, curtsys to the King and curtsys to the Queen. The King bows in return, as does also the Queen. A lady presented does not kiss the Queen's hand, as she formerly did. The King does not shake hands with any present, however high their rank may be, neither does the Queen shake hands with any present.
A lady on being presented does not now curtsy to anymember of the Royal Family when she has passed Their Majesties, and leaves the Presence Chamber, stepping backwards, facing the royal party, until making her exit from the apartment, when an official places her train on her arm at the threshold of the doorway.
When a Lady wishes to attend a Court, after having been duly presented, it is necessary to inform the Lord Chamberlain of her wish to attend. Summonses are issued about three weeks before the date of each Court.
Having received a summons to attend a Court she should take the summons card with her, which she should show to the page-in-waiting in the corridor, and eventually hand it to the official stationed at the door of the Presence Chamber, by whom it is passed on to the Lord Chamberlain, who announces the name to Their Majesties.
A lady attending a Court curtsys to the King; she also curtsys to the Queen, but does not curtsy to any other member of the Royal Family present.
In the General Circle there is no Precedencyas to the order in which ladies attending a Court enter the Presence Chamber. The earliest arrivals are the first to appear before Their Majesties, without reference to rank or position; and the same rule applies to ladies who are presented, or to ladies who make presentations.
A Married Lady presented at a Courtcan, at the same Court, present her daughter or daughter-in-law; but in this case the one presented by her should enter the Presence Chamber after her, and not before her.
Although, according to present regulations, the unmarried daughters of members of the nobility and gentry who have already been presented are only expected to attend a Court once in every three years, it will not prevent their beinginvited to Court functions, to the State balls, concerts, and garden parties.
Ladies who have been presented at a Courthave the privilege of writing their names in Their Majesties' visiting book at Buckingham Palace once during the season. The hours of calling for this purpose are generally from three to five o'clock in the afternoon.
It is Imperative for Ladies to wear Full Court Dresswhen attending or being presented at a Court, viz. low bodice, short sleeves, and train to dress not less than three yards in length from the shoulders.
Whether the train is cut round or square is a matter of inclination or fashion. The width at the end should be 54 inches.
It is also imperative that a presentation-dress should be white, if the person presented be an unmarried lady; and it is also the fashion for married ladies to wear white on their presentation, unless their age renders their doing so unsuitable.
The white dresses worn by eitherdébutantesor married ladies may be trimmed with either coloured or white flowers, according to individual taste.
High Court Dress.—The Queen has been pleased to permit that a high Court dress of silk, satin, or velvet, may be worn at Their Majesties' Courts, and on other State occasions, by ladies, to whom, from illness, infirmity, or advancing age, the present low Court dress is inappropriate, viz.: Bodices in front, cut square, or heart-shaped, which may be filled in with white only, either transparent or lined; at the back, high, or cut down three-quarters height. Sleeves to elbow, either thick or transparent.
Trains, gloves, and feathers as usual.
It is necessary for ladies who wish to appear in "HighCourt Dress" to obtain Royal permission, through the Lord Chamberlain.
This regulation does not apply to ladies who have already received permission to wear high dress.
White gloves only should be worn, excepting in case of mourning, when black or grey gloves are admissible.
As a lady on presentation does not now kiss the Queen's hand as formerly she did, she is not required to remove the right-hand glove before entering the Presence Chamber. This order, therefore, is no longer in force, and a lady wearing elbow gloves and bracelets will find it a great convenience not to be obliged to take off her glove.
It is compulsory for both Married and Unmarried Ladies to Wear Plumes.—The married lady's Court plume consists of three white feathers.
An unmarried lady's of two white feathers.
The three white feathersshould be mounted as a Prince of Wales' plume, and worn towards the left-hand side of the head.
Coloured feathersmay not be worn.
In deep mourningwhite feathers must be worn, black feathers are inadmissible.
White veils or lace lappetsmust be worn with the feathers. The veils should not be longer than 45 inches.
Bouquets are not includedin the dress regulations issued by the Lord Chamberlain, although they are invariably carried by both married and unmarried ladies. It is thus optional to carry a bouquet or not, and some elderly ladies carry much smaller bouquets than do younger ladies.
A fan and a lace pocket-handkerchief are also carried by a lady on presentation or on attending a Court, but these two items are also altogether optional.
Levées are held by the Kingin person. Those who have been presented at levées held by His late Majesty, King Edward, do not require to be again presented to His Majesty King George.
Four or more Levées are usually held every yearby the King at St. James's Palace.
Gentlemen are officially presented by the heads of any department or profession to which they individually belong, whether civil or military, naval or clerical; it is more usual for a gentleman to be presented by the head of his department, or by the colonel of his regiment, than by his nearest relative.
Presentations are also made by Relativesand friends of those presented; but these are greatly in the minority at all levées.
Gentlemen must be again presentedat every step in their career, whether civil, military, naval, or clerical—on civil appointments, on gaining steps of naval, military, legal, or clerical rank, and on accession to title, whether inherited or conferred.
Those entitled to be presented at His Majesty's Levées arethe members of the aristocracy and gentry, the members of the diplomatic corps, the Cabinet, andall leading Government officials, Members of Parliament, leading members of the legal profession, the naval and military professions, the leading members of the clerical profession, the leading members of the medical and artistic professions, the leading bankers, merchants, and members of the Stock Exchange, and persons engaged in commerce on a large scale. An exception to the rule as regards retail trade is made in favour of any person receiving Knighthood, or when holding the office of Mayor, or being made a Justice of the Peace, or on receiving a Commission in the Territorial forces.
The dates on which levées are to be held are duly announced in theGazette, and in the daily newspapers.
At all future levées cards of admission will be required, as the numbers at each of these ceremonies must be limited.
The Lord Chamberlain has issued the following revised list of rules, which are to be observed at attendances and presentations in future—
All officers, whether on the active or retired lists, of the Royal Navy and the Royal Marines, of whatever rank, should communicate with and obtain their cards from the private secretary to the First Lord of the Admiralty. All civil officers of the Admiralty should follow the same rule.
All officers, whether on the active or retired lists, of the Army, Regulars or Territorials, of whatever rank, except those on the Indian and Colonial Establishments, should communicate with and obtain their cards from the Adjutant-General at the War Office, stating clearly at which levée they desire to be present, and whether they wish to attend or to be presented; if the latter, stating by whom and on what occasion. Deputy lieutenants of counties should also communicate and obtain their cards from the War Office.
Officers of the Household Cavalry and Foot Guards on the active list should make application to the Lord Chamberlain at St. James's Palace for cards of admission andpresentation. All retired Officers of the Household Cavalry and Brigade of Guards should apply to the War Office.
All officers of the Indian Civil Service and of the Indian Army, of whatever rank, whether on the active or retired lists, should communicate with and obtain their cards from the private secretary to the Secretary of State at the India Office, Whitehall.
All officers of the Colonial service and Colonial forces, of whatever rank, whether on the active or retired lists, should communicate with and obtain their cards from the Colonial Office, Whitehall.
Similarly, all gentlemen connected with the Foreign Office, the Home Office, officials connected with the Houses of Parliament, or any Government department, should communicate with and obtain their cards for attendance or presentation at levées from the department under which they serve.
Judges, law officers, King's Counsel, and all legal officials holding appointments under the Crown are requested to make their applications through the secretary to the Lord Chancellor.
Peers, bishops, Lords-Lieutenants of Counties, Members of Parliament, clergy of all denominations, and all gentlemen, other than the above-mentioned, should communicate with the Lord Chamberlain at St. James's Palace, when they will each be furnished with a card of admission for use at the levée.
The names both for attendance and presentation must be received at the various offices above indicated not later than eight days prior to the date of each levée, but in the case of officers, who make application to the War Office, fourteen days before the date of each levée.
When a Gentleman makes a Presentationit is compulsory for him to attend the same levée as the person whom he presents, and the card of presentation is sent to him to be forwarded to the person to be presented.
A Gentleman on being presentedshould bow to the King, and His Majesty will bow to him in return. Gentlemen attending a levée should also bow to His Majesty.
Gentlemen who have been presentedat a levée have the privilege of writing their names in His Majesty's visiting book at Buckingham Palace once during the season. The hours of calling for this purpose are generally from three to five o'clock in the afternoon.
The Dress to be worn at Courts, State Functions and Levées.—Full dress uniform is invariably worn by all gentlemen entitled to wear it. All officers of Scottish kilted corps should wear the kilt irrespective of their being mounted officers or not. Gentlemen who do not wear uniform may wear either velvet Court dress, new style; velvet Court dress, old style; cloth Court dress.
The new style velvet Court dress is of black silk velvet. The body of the coat lined with white silk and the skirt with black silk. Steel buttons. Waistcoat of white satin or black silk velvet. Breeches of black silk velvet, black silk hose, patent leather shoes, steel buckled; white bow necktie, white gloves, sword, black beaver or silk cocked hat. The velvet Court dress, old style, is very similar to the foregoing, with the addition of a black silk wig-bag at the back of the neck, and lace frills and ruffles. The cloth Court dress consists of a coat of dark mulberry, claret, or green cloth with black silk linings, gold embroidery on collar, cuffs, and pocket flaps, gilt buttons with Imperial Crown; waistcoat of white corded silk or white Marcella; breeches of cloth, colour of coat; black silk hose, patent leather shoes, sword, white bow necktie, white gloves, black beaver or silk cocked hat.
Levée dress is identical with the foregoing except that trousers—with a row of narrow gold lace down the sideseams—are worn, and not breeches. Military patent leather boots.
Archbishops and Bishopsat Levées and Courts wear Convocation robes, viz. scarlet cloth chimere, without hood; purple cassock and sash, lawn rochet with sleeves, white cambric bands, black silk scarf, black breeches, silver knee buckles, black silk stockings, shoes with silver buckles; purple or black velvet square soft cap to be carried. At Evening State Functions and Full Dress Dinners they wear a purple cloth Court coat over a short cassock or apron, sash of purple silk, black breeches, black silk stockings, shoes with silver buckles; black corded silk three-cornered hat to be carried.
Deans and Archdeaconsat Evening State Functions wear the same dress as bishops except that the coat and short cassock are black. Doctors of Divinity at Levées and Courts wear the scarlet cloth robe of their University, without hood.
Clergy if not Doctors of Divinityat Levées and Courts wear full canonicals, that is, a black silk Geneva gown, double-breasted; black silk long cassock and sash, scarf and white lawn bands, black breeches, silver knee buckles, black silk stockings, shoes with silver buckles, black corded silk three-cornered hat. At Full Dress Dinners and Evening State Parties when canonicals are not worn, they wear a black cloth Court coat, cassock, waistcoat of black corded silk, black breeches, black silk stockings, shoes, silver buckles; black corded silk three-cornered hat to be carried. White gloves are worn at all Court functions. The academical habit should not be worn at Court except when addresses are presented from the Universities.
When the Court is in mourning, gentlemen attending a levée are expected to wear a band of black crape on the left arm above the elbow.
Ballsare given in town and country by society at large, and these invitation balls include Hunt Balls, Military and Naval Balls, Yeomanry and Territorial Balls, Bachelors' Balls, etc.
Public Ballsare those balls for which tickets of admission can be purchased, although for many of these balls it is necessary to obtain vouchers from the committees or patronesses, when held in town or at watering-places.
Public balls include County Balls, Charity Balls, and Subscription Balls, etc.
In Town, Ball-givingis in a way a science, and an amusement upon which large sums of money are frequently expended.
A Crowded Ballis not always pronounced a good ball by the guests, often the contrary, but then, again, what is termed a thin ball is open to the accusation of not going off well, and falling rather flat; of not being kept up with spirit, and of being considered a stupid ball, and so on.
To hit upon a happy medium with regard to the number of guests is an achievement in ball-giving which is only arrived at by a careful study of the map of the county, and a judicious selection of night. This selection is of paramount importance to the success of a ball, as when a smarter ball is given at a smarter house on the particularevening chosen by the giver of a less brilliant ball, the grander ball extinguishes the lesser ball, through the most fashionable people merely looking in at the one, and remaining the rest of the evening at the other. This putting out as it were of the lesser light, occurs very frequently during the London season to ball-givers moving in the same sets. The guests who have been expected to add lustre to the lesser balls appear but for a few minutes, and usually arrive rather early, uncomplimentarily early, at perhaps a little before eleven, and remain hardly half an hour in the rooms, making their way to another ball of the same calibre, and remaining there perhaps another twenty minutes, before arriving at the goal, viz.theball of the evening. Both ladies and gentlemen follow this practice, thus, at a little after twelve, an average ball-giver finds her rooms deserted by all but those who have nowhere else to go. Although the flitting of the guests thus early is a disappointment to the hostess, and although it does not prevent the fleeting ball-givers from making suitable returns by placing the family on their ball lists, it yet greatly mars the enjoyment of the ball, and prevents its being looked back upon with anything approaching to pleasure or satisfaction, the departure of the most eligible partners being not the least of the vexations of the night.
Thesecontretempsare sometimes unavoidable; but, when practicable, it is always best to postpone a ball rather than to allow it to clash with a ball of greater pretensions.
An impromptu dance is often a great success, while an impromptu ball is almost as certain to prove a great failure.
The Difference between a Dance and a Ballconsists in the number of the invitations issued, in the strength of the band, and the extent of the supper arrangements.
At a dance the number of the guests varies from eighty to two hundred; at a ball they vary from two hundred to five hundred.
At a dance a piano band is frequently engaged, while at a ball a full band is requisite. At a ball the floral decorations are a great feature, at a small dance they are often dispensed with. Ladies new to society as it were, or whose circle of acquaintance is of a limited character, and who do not number in that circle many ball-givers, and who yet desire to form a ball acquaintance, frequently place their ball in the hands of some intimate friend of higher standing than themselves, giving hercarte blancheto form a ball list. When this plan is followed, invitations are still sent out by the ball-giver; in every case the name and compliments of the lady who forms the list are sent with the card.
This plan, although of advantage to the hostess, is often productive of much unpleasantness to her unfashionable friends, who are naturally very much affronted at being excluded from the ball list, which they usually are, as a lady who undertakes to form a ball list for a friend is not a little arbitrary as to the conditions under which she assumes its management. She naturally wishes the ball to be confined to her own set, to the exclusion of what she terms all outsiders.
Ladies are always more or less reluctant to yield up their ball to the exclusion of their old friends, however anxious they may be to make new ones. But when a ball is thus given it is thoroughly understood that conditions, however stringent, must be complied with.
A Hostess should receive her Guestsat the head of the staircase at a ball given in town, and at the door of the ball-room at a country house ball. She should shake hands with each guest in the order of their arrival.
The ladies of a party should advance towards the hostess, followed by the gentlemen of their party.
A lady and gentleman should not ascend the staircase arm-in-arm, or make their entrance into the ball-room arm-in-arm. The gentlemen invariably enter the ball-room after the ladies of their party, and never before them, orarm-in-arm with them. A ball is usually opened either by the hostess herself, or by one of her daughters.
Opening a Fancy Dress Ballsimply signifies dancing in the first quadrille. Opening a dance means dancing the first valse.
When a member of the Royal Family, or a foreign prince, is expected, dancing should not commence until the arrival of the royal guest; and when the royal guest is a lady, the host should open the ball with her, having his wife or daughter asvis-à-vis. When the royal guest is a prince, the hostess or her daughter should open the ball with him.
When a prince wishes to dance with any lady present, with whom he is unacquainted, his equerry informs her of the prince's intention, and conducts her to the prince, saying as he does so, "Mrs. A——, your Royal Highness" or "Miss B——, your Royal Highness." The prince bows and offers her his arm; the lady should curtsy and take it. She should not address him until addressed by him, it not being considered etiquette to do so. The same course is followed by a princess; strangers to the princess should not ask her to dance, but the host has the privilege of doing so. When more than one royal personage is present, the one of the highest rank leads the way, with either hostess or host. (SeeChapter V.)
Royal Guestsshould be received by the host and hostess at the entrance of the mansion, and by them conducted to the ball-room. At ball-suppers the same precedence is strictly in force, the royal guests leading the way with host or hostess (see p.49).
The same etiquette should be observed on the departure of royal guests as on their arrival.
General Introductionsshould not be made to royal guests, and introductions should be made by request only.
Gentlemen present at a ball are expected to ask the daughters of the house for one dance at least.
A hostess should use her own discretion as to any introduction she thinks proper to make. When a ball is given in the country, the hostess should endeavour to find partners for those young ladies who are strangers to the general company. But when a ball is given in town, she is not expected to do so, as in town the guests are supposed to be acquainted with each other more or less, and to be independent of the kind offices of a hostess.
The Dances mainly in vogue at the momentare, "Valses," "The Boston," "Two Steps," and "The Cotillon," in which handsome presents are given. "Quadrilles" are danced at "State Balls," and at those balls at which the King and Queen are present. Also at "Fancy Dress Balls." "Lancers" are danced occasionally at "Hunt Balls."
The Precedency observedin sending guests in to supper is far more punctiliously followed in the country than in town. The host should take in the lady of highest rank present, and the hostess should endeavour to send in the principal guests according to their individual rank; but in town she generally leaves the guests to follow the host and lady of highest rank according to their inclinations, a guest should not enter the supper-room before the host has done so.
When a gentleman takes a lady in to supper, he should re-conduct her to the ball-room as a matter of course; the fact of friends joining her in the supper-room would not relieve him from this obligation. And the same etiquette applies equally to a lady. She should return to the ball-room only with the gentleman who has taken her down to supper, unless she is engaged for the ensuing dance,when her partner might come in quest of her; she should then return to the ball-room with him.
It is not usual for guests to take leave of a hostess at a London ball. This remark applies to acquaintances of the hostess, and not to intimate friends.
At a country ball the guests are on a more friendly footing than is generally the case in town; and, therefore, make a point of taking leave of the hostess if possible.
It is optional whether a host conducts a lady to her carriage or not. In the country more is expected of him than in town in this respect, as at a London ball, such a civility would involve a vast amount of exertion which few hosts would be willing to undergo: ladies accompanied by an acquaintance generally make their way to their carriages.
The Custom of covering in Small Balconiesand the windows of the drawing-rooms where a ball takes place, rendering the atmosphere of the room almost insupportable from the total exclusion of air, is fast disappearing. The space gained by this means for the accommodation of the guests is totally disproportionate to the discomfort thereby entailed upon them.
Ball-givers have at length realised the mistake of crowding two hundred to three hundred people together into rooms not properly ventilated, and it is now the rule, when covering in balconies, to introduce window frames into the bunting covering, and to drape them with lace curtains, etc., the windows of the ball-room being entirely removed.
Large blocks of ice are frequently placed in convenient spots for the purpose of cooling the atmosphere, and coloured ice produces a pretty effect.
Patent ventilators are also much in use, and the substitution of electric lighting, on account of its emitting little heat, has become general.
Ball-goers appreciate these alterations as only those whohave experienced the close, stifling atmosphere of an over-crowded ball-room can do, and as half the London ball-rooms are only average-sized drawing-rooms, the absurdity of excluding air from the ball-room with yards of thick canvas cannot be too severely criticised.
Ball-givers, too, frequently issue far more invitations than the size of their rooms authorises, under the mistaken idea that to have a great crowd in their rooms is to give a good ball.
But experienced ball-givers limit the number of their invitations to under two hundred, instead of expanding it to over three hundred.
The Country Ball Seasonostensibly commences in November, reaches its zenith in January, and terminates early in February.
The stewards of these balls are, as a rule, the representatives of the various classes by whom they are attended; the members of the aristocracy residing in the county heading the list of stewards, and the members of the professional classes usually closing it.
The top of the ball-room is, as a rule, appropriated by the aristocratic element, head stewards and "lady patronesses."
The enjoyment derived from country balls depends upon a variety of circumstances, which do not influence in a like degree the ball-going world of London.
County Ballsare principally composed of a series of large parties brought by different ladies in the neighbourhood where the ball is held; but there are two classes of county balls, balls which are held in large and populous towns and attended by the principal residents of the towns, with only a small sprinkling of the county aristocracy and county gentry.
There are also Hunt Balls and annual Charity Ballswhich take place between October and February, and which are an amalgamation of both classes of balls.
The neighbourhood where a ball is held is a sufficient indication as to whether it is likely to be a smart one or not.
As a rule the leading ladies of a county lend their names as patronesses and supporters of a charity ball, although it by no means follows that they will personally attend it; but a long list of influential patronesses materially increases the sale of tickets, which is the result to be achieved.
A large attendance is not the primary object of a county ball, as the sum raised by the sale of tickets is only required to defray the expenses of the ball, although these are sometimes considerable, especially when the decorations are elaborate, and the arrangements on a grand scale, in which case there is not seldom a deficiency rather than a surplus, which deficiency is defrayed by the stewards themselves.
To ensure a good ball considerable unanimity on the part of the county ladies is demanded, and they usually meet and consult together previous to fixing the date of the ball, to take into consideration the fixtures of neighbouring county balls, and so avoid the possibility of the said balls clashing with their own county ball, and also with a view of perhaps attracting the house parties of their more distant neighbours to swell the numbers at their own ball.
House parties invited for a ball vary from ten to twenty-five, as the accommodation of a house admits.
It is not the province of the stewards of a ball to find partners for either ladies or gentlemen, and therefore, if a lady does not form one of a large party, but merely attends a county ball with a relative or friend, and has not a large acquaintance amongst these present, she has very little chance of obtaining partners.
Young ladies do not now return to their chaperons after each dance, or after they have been to the tea-room.
A gentleman should offer his arm to his partner at the conclusion of a dance to conduct her to the tea-room.In round dances, it is customary to take frequent pauses, and not to race round the ball-room until the music ceases.
At country balls programmes are invariably used; at London balls they are never used, save at public balls.
County balls usually commence between nine and ten o'clock, sometimes a ball is not opened until the most influential of the stewards and their parties have arrived, but oftener than not the two first dances are over before the arrival of the county magnates.
It depends upon the length of the drive at what time people arrive at a ball; as a rule, they do not arrive later than 10.30 p.m.
The usual mode of conveying a house-party to a ball is by private omnibus in addition to carriages and motor-cars; but when these are hired for the occasion the expense should be defrayed by the guests themselves.
It is usual to leave a country ball not later than half-past two; the most fashionable people invariably do so about that hour.
As a matter of course persons attending public balls take their ball tickets with them.
When attending a Military Ball, or a Hunt Ball, it is usually the rule to take the invitation card and hand it to the sergeant or official in attendance.
It is sometimes stated on the invitation card that this is to be done, although it is often taken for granted that persons will do so of their own accord.
At balls given by private individuals, the invited guests should not bring their invitation cards with them, unless in the case of abal masqué, where they are sometimes requested to do so.
In giving a ball three weeks' notice is considered necessary, but with regard to a dance a short ten days' notice would suffice.
The Invitation Cardis the usual "at home" card, the word "Dancing" being printed in the corner of the card.
The word "ball" should never be used on an invitation card, however grand the entertainment; and the same form of invitation is employed either in the case of a small dance or of a large ball, though in the event of a small dance only being given, the words "Small" or "Early" should be written or printed on the invitation card.
Invitations to a ball should be issued in the name of the hostess only.
When the host is a widower, with a grown-up daughter, the invitations should be issued in their joint names.
When the host is a widower, or a bachelor, they should be issued in his name.
Invitations issued by officers, members of hunt committees, bachelors, etc., to their balls, either request the pleasure or the honour of Mrs. ——'s company; but this formula should not be used by ladies when issuing invitations; the "at home" card should simply bear the word "Dancing" on the bottom of the card, the hour and date filled in in the allotted space, the name of the guest written at the top of the card.
In the case of a written invitation, it would be correct to use the words "ball" or "dance" when alluding to the entertainment about to be given, in a friendly note.
A lady or gentleman might ask for an invitation for his or her friend to a ball given by an acquaintance, although the acquaintanceship were of a slight character; but a lady or gentleman should not ask for an invitation to a ball if unacquainted with the giver of it. The fact of mutual friends having received invitations to a ball gives no claim upon the hospitality of a stranger, therefore such requests are inadmissible.
The proper course for a person to pursue in the event of desiring an invitation to a ball given by some one withwhom he or she is unacquainted, is to request some mutual friend to obtain one; and this course is always followed.
Cards should be leftby the guests present at a ball within the current week if possible. (SeeChapter III.)
Gratuitiesshould never be given by the guests to the servants of the house where a ball is given.
State Balls.—Two State Balls are annually given at Buckingham Palace during the London season by command of His Majesty. Invitations are issued by the Lord Chamberlain, but His Majesty previously revises the list.
When ladies and gentlemen attend a State Ball at Buckingham Palace they make their way to the ball-roomunannounced; and there is no official reception accorded to them, either by "Royalty" or by the Lord Chamberlain.
Dancing does not commence until the arrival of the royal party, when the guests rise and remain standing while the Royal Quadrille—with which the ball opens—is being danced.
The King and Queen act as host and hostess on these occasions, but confine their attentions to those with whom they are personally acquainted.
Ladies attending a State Ball at Buckingham Palace should wear the usual full evening dress; but they should not wear Court trains, or plumes, or lappets.
Gentlemen attending State Balls should wear uniform or full Court dress—dress coat, breeches and silk stockings, shoes and buckles; trousers can only be worn as part of a uniform, and not with a Court dress as generally worn at a levée.
A gentleman intending to dance should remove his sword, otherwise he should not do so.
When the Court is in mourning, ladies attending a State Ball should wear mourning according to the official notice which duly appears in theGazette.
Gentlemen should wear crape on the left arm, which is supplied in the cloak-room of the Palace to those who have forgotten to provide themselves with it, as it is imperative, when the Court is in mourning, that a band of crape should be worn at either State Ball or State Concert.
The balls given by the princes and princesses of the blood royal are not State Balls, therefore Court dress is not worn by the gentlemen present.
They act as host and hostess at the balls given by them and receive their guests, shaking hands with them as they are announced.
Ladies and gentlemen do not take their cards of invitation with them to Buckingham Palace.