OnMondayEveningAugust 3, 1668.we took Barge atTower-Wharf, and atGreenwichwent on Board theBezantYacht for theDowns, where we arrived the next day in the Afternoon, and went on Board theLeopardFrigat, a Ship of 56 Guns mounted, CaptainO BryenCommander, appointed to carry SirDaniel Harvey, his Majesty's Ambassador to the Port of theOttomanEmperor atConstantinople. Here, upon his first Arrival, the Ambassador was Complemented by SirJeremy Smith, then riding Admiral, SirEdward Spragg, and several other Commanders of the Men of War,and afterwards Saluted with Fifteen Pieces of Ordinance by the Admiral, to whom we returned as many; then by the Vice-Admiral, and several other Ships. All which were answered together at the same time with 21 in the whole.
Here we were forced to Ride for several days, the Winds being contrary.
In theOffingbetween theNorth ForelandandSouth Forelandit runs Tide and half Tide, that is, it is either ebbing Water or Flood upon the Shore, in that part of theDowns, three hours, which is grossly speaking the time of half a Tide, before it is so, off at Sea. (For the flux and reflux of the Sea is not made exactly twice in 24 hours, but, as it appears by accurate observation, it requires an overplus of almost 50 minutes.) The reason of this diversity of Tides, I take to be from the meeting of the two Seas in that narrow Streight.
Oftentimes when the Wind has blown hard at N. E. or at W. or W. and by S. there has hapn'd an alteration of the Tides in the River ofThames, which ignorant People have mistakenly lookt upon as a Prodigy.
It is a most certain Observation, that where it flows Tide and half Tide, tho' the Tide of Flood runs aloft, yet the Tide of Ebb runs under foot, that is, close by theground; and so at the Tide of Ebb, it will flow under foot, as that great and experienc'd Sea-Commander, SirH. Manwaring, words it.
August 9.We sailed from theDowns, but were soon forced back by distress of Weather, and came to an Anchor S. W. of theSouth Foreland.
10. The Wind blew at S. S. W. and the Sea run very high, so that we were in danger of losing our Cable and Anchor; the Ground, where we rode, at 16 Fathom ½ water, being somewhat gruff.
15. The Wind coming about at W. N. W. we sailed, and were Saluted with nine Guns fromDoverCastle, and seven from one Fort, and five from another. We carried a Flag upon our Maintop, after we came out of theDowns. The Wind in the Afternoon at N. E. brought us by seven of the Clock to theNess, where we lay at Anchor during the Tide of Flood; during which time the Mariners caught good store ofWhitings, baiting their Hooks with raw Mutton.
16. We were in the morning athwart St.Helen's Point in theIsle of Wight; where we discovered SirThomas Allenwith his Squadron under Sail, bound for theStraits.
17. In the morning we got to the West ofPortland, the Wind at N. by E. our Course lying thereupon S. S. W. but about noon, sailing over part of the Race ofPortland, where we met with a tumbling Sea, we Anchored at the N. W. part in the Bay, over against the Point that looks towardsWeymouth. We were ashore in the Island, which seems to be but one continued Rock; the Soil in several places not being above five or six Inches deep, as I found by digging a hole with my Knife; yet the Corn flourishing enough. The Castle consists of a double Fortification; we could not observe above five Guns mounted. They told us, that in the Island there was but 1 Church, and 4 Villages.
We weighed at twelve of the Clock at night: But
18. The Wind blowing fiercely at W. directly in our teeth, we made but little way, and could not weather theStartPoint that night. The Moon upon its first emerging above the Horizon, seemed to have a colour like burnt Brick, the Sky very cloudy: but some Rain falling, as she advanced higher and higher, she appeared more and more fiery.
19. We weathered theStartPoint by noon, but could not make much way beyond it.
20. We got intoPlymouthSound. The Cittadel, built upon a Rock, with large Counterscarps and Bastions, returned our Salute with nine Guns. SirThomas Allenwith his Fleet stood to the Lizard, and came not to an Anchor.
21. Misty Weather. About eleven Clock Forenoon, and about six in the Evening, we observed the Vapours in great quantity ascend out of the Sea, soon covering the tops of the Mountains. Here we staid three days, taking in some Provisions, ready prepared for us.
OnSundaythe 23dofAugustwe weighed out ofPlymouthSound, and made theLizard, a Promontory inCornwall, before night: TheManacles, several Rocks so called, we discerned very distinctly, it being then low Ebb; as also the Lands end. The Wind blew fresh; and we observed the Waves in the Night-time, as if they had been liquid Fire, but palish.
TheLizardbearing N. of us, we changed our Course, and taking leave ofEngland, we sailed into the Ocean. God of his Mercy send us a happy Voyage.
24. We run this day thirty nine Leagues by a Compute from our Log-line.
25. We were full open with theBay of Biscay. SeveralGullswere hovering over the Surface of the Water to catch Fish, which swam by in vast sholes, at about 50 Leagues distance from any Land.
At other times I have seen several Birds floating upon the Water, which being driven by some Tempest from the Coasts ofSpainandPortugal, have been tired in their flight, and so drowned. This happens frequently in the great Ocean, where they meet with no Land to fly to in several hundreds of Leagues; and sometimes even in theMediterranean, in the Mid-Seas between theChristianandBarbaryShores. In blowing Weather, among other Birds flying cross, we saw a Hawk making to our Ship, then under good and swift Sail, which perched upon the round-top of the Main-mast; which one of the Seamen espying, he presently run up the Shrouds, and brought down the Hawk, which made no attempt to fly away, being quite spent. But not long after, the Hawk recovering his Spirits by rest and meat which was given him, took wing and got away from the Fellow, notwithstanding all the care he took to secure his new Adventure, which he hoped to have made Mony of at the next Port that we should come to.
26. A strong Levant still blowing, and the Sea very rough and boisterous, the Gale continuing almost right a stern, we run these 24 hours above 70 Leagues.
27. We found our selves by our observations, that we were in the Latitude of 42 degrees 17 minutes, and began to be very sensible of our nearer approach to the South, the Weather being excessive hot. In the Afternoon we heard the report of several Guns fired at about seven or eight Leagues distance, as we guessed. At eight of the Clock at night another Gun was fired somewhat near us, which we thought might be from anAlgerineMan of War, who gave a signal to his Consorts, and who answered by several flashes of Powder. Whereupon our Trumpeters sounded a Point of War, but no return was made. However, the Captain quartered his Men, and the Decks were cleared, and all things made ready in order to a Fight the next Morning; as soon as day appeared, we saw the Sea clear, no Ships being in view any way: so that we concluded that they were Merchant-Ships, with their Convoy, standing to the Northward.
28. Dreadful Lightnings in the Clouds towards the Evening; after which great Dews fell: the Weather extream hot.
29. We saw a Pilot-fish swim by the sides of the Ship, and several Bonito's and Albicores playing, as it were with their Heads above Water. The Wind took us short in the night, and soon after there was a stark Calm; and we had great reason to bless God for it: For had we continued our Coursethat night, we had either run a-ground, or had been cast upon the Rocks near toPenicheinPortugal. The fault was mis-reckoning, and haling in too soon to make theSouthern Cape: though the Seamen, to salve their Credit, and to excuse their Error, which had like to have proved so fatal to us, pretended that we were set in by a strong Current. God make us thankful for this great Deliverance.
30. This Morning we were surprized to see our selves within four or five Leagues of the Shore, when we had thought that we had been above twenty. In the Afternoon, the Wind coming on fresh, we weathered the westermost Isle of theBarlings. On the greatest of which, being as we guessed, above half a Mile in length, thePortuguesehave built a Fort to hinder theBarbaryPirates from careening their Ships there, or taking in fresh Water. The Land of it very high, and bore off us S. E. by E. By it lie several Rocks. The other Islands are distant about a League. I told five of them: the greatest of which last lie somewhere inward to the Shore.
For two Nights together about this time (28 and 29) the Sky being very hazy, the Sun set in a colour as deep as Blood, which was very astonishing. We were then in the Latitude of 40.
31. Betimes in the Morning we sailed by the Rock ofLisbon, at some distance, which was scarce discernible by reason of the cloudiness of the Weather. TwoTurksMen of War are now plying to the Windward of us;but dare not come up to speak with us, perceiving that we are only laden with Powder and Bullet.
September 1.In the Morning we made CapeSt. Vincent. I went on Shore with the Lieutenant and several others in our Pinnace, which we drove into one of the Coves; and were forced to climb up a Rock, the ascent of which was very dangerous and troublesome; and made more so by the Rays of the Sun, which were reflected with that vehemence, that the Heat was almost intolerable. Having gained the top, we were met by an Officer and some Soldiers, who had us into the Castle, the middlemost of the three, which are built along that Promontory for the Security of the Coasts, and entertained us with Wine, Grapes, and Marmalade. They told us, that a Squadron of English Men of War sailed by the day before. We here met with two Vessels belonging toDartmouth, laden with Fish fromNewfoundland, bound forAlicant. All along the Coasts, at the distance of about two or three Leagues, are several Watch-towers built to give notice of Pirates.
Becalmed for the most part these two or three days.
5. In the Morning we weathered the Point ofCadiz, and came to an Anchor in theBay of Bulls, about half a League from the greatPorgoe; and in the Afternoon went on shore. We were entertained by theEnglishConsul, and carried by him to view the Fortifications, which are esteemed to be as regular as any inChristendom; built in the same placewhere the Town had been attacked formerly by theEnglish, under the Conduct of the Earl ofEssexin the Reign of Q.Elizabeth. Plays are usually here, as in other parts ofSpain, acted on aSunday. During the time of our stay, was represented the History of the Patience ofJob, the Devil brought upon the Stage, temptingJob's Wife in a drolling way, which caused great Laughter and Merriment among the Spectators. AtMalaga, as the Merchants told us, theSundaybefore we arrived there, was acted theSchism of Englandin the time of KingHenrythe Eighth, whom theSpaniardswill not yet forgive, for Divorcing himself from Q.Catherine, their Country-Woman.
9. We sailed fromCadiz.
10. This Afternoon we were forced to Anchor, not far fromCape SpartelorSprat, as the Seamen call it, not being able to weather the Point.
11. This day we came to an Anchor inTangier-Bay, with SirThomas Allen's Squadron.
Tangierlies within the Entrance into theStraitof theMediterranean, in the Latitude of about 35°, 36´. It is situated in the bottom of a Bay, and is built on the side of the Hill, overlooking the Sea, encompassed with high Walls to the Land-ward, and commanded by a strong Castle. The Heats would be very troublesome but for the Sea-breezes which cool and fan the Air. In the Castle I met with aRomanMonument, erected to the Honour ofP. Belius, a great Officer and Souldier inTrajan's time; who, among hisother Titles, is there stiled, PPO. FIG. MAURITANIAE. TINGITANAE: which since has been taken away, and presented to the University ofOxonby SirHugh Cholmondley, and now serves to adorn theAreaabout theTheatre.
TheEnglishhave two Churches here, (though they only make use of one, the other being reserved against all Accidents) both of them very neat and convenient; though not to be compared with the Church of thePortuguese, retained still, according to the Articles of Agreement, when the King ofPortugalmade over the Right and Title, and gave the Possession ofTangierto the Crown ofEngland, by the Canons Regulars, belonging to it, which is very stately, and adorn'd with rich Images, and supported by Marble Pillars. Toward one end of theEnglishChurch, just by the Vestiary, which had been formerly aTurkishMosch, and afterward the Chappel of a Convent ofDominicans, is a Monumental Stone-Table inArabickCharacters, containing an account of the Houses, Lands, and other Revenues belonging to it, set up in the 743 year of theHegira, that is, of Christ 1341. The Mole is in good forwardness, they having gained above 200 yards in the Sea, in order to the making of a good and safe Harbour for Ships to ride in, which lye open to Wind and Waves; the outward side to the Seaward somewhat sloping. The Garrison is in so good a posture of Defence, that they defyTaffilettaand all his Forces. Here we met with great Civilities from ColonelNorwood,Deputy-Governour, and the Gentlemen belonging to the Garrison. SirHarry Mildmayand Mr.Goodland, two of KingCharlesthe First his Judges, are here; but who have the Liberty of the Town. Now, at our being here, come in severalMoorsfromArzilla, and among the rest, the Father of one ofGayland's Wives, to get a Passage forAlgiers.
OldTangierlyes at some little distance, where they find very frequently in digging several pieces ofRomanCoin. But for the above-mentioned, and the other Curiosities and Antiquities ofTangier, of which I forbear to make mention, from the imperfect and hasty Observations of two days, the greatest part of which being taken up by the Entertainment of our obliging Country-men, you may consult with great pleasure and satisfaction, a little Book calledThe present State of Tangier, written by a very ingenious Gentleman, and printed in the Year 1676.
There is a vastdraughtofwaterpoured continually out of theAtlantickinto theMediterranean, the mouth or entrance of which betweenCape SpartelorSprat, as thesea-mencall it, andCape Trafalgar, may be near 7 leagues wide, thecurrentsetting strong into it, and not losing its force till it runs as far asMalaga, which is about 20 leagues within theStreights. By the benefit of thisCurrent, tho' the wind be contrary, if it does not over-blow,Shipseasily turn into thegut, as they term thenarrow passage, which is about 20 miles in length. At the end of which are two Towns,Gibraltaron the coast ofSpain, which gives denomination to theStreight, andCeutaon theBarbarycoast: at which placesHerculesis supposed to have set up hisPillars. What becomes of this great quantity of water poured in this way, and of that, which runs from theEuxineinto theBosporousandPropontis, and is carried at last through theHellespontinto theÆgæanorArchipelago, is a curiousspeculation, and has exercised the wit and understanding ofPhilosophersandNavigators. For there is no sensible rising of thewaterall along theBarbary Coast, even down toAlexandria, the land beyondTripoli, and that ofÆgypt, lying very low, and easily overflowable. They observe indeed, that the water rises 3 feet, or 3 feet and an half, in thegulphofVenice, and as much, or very near as much, all along theRivieraofGenoa, as far as the riverArno: but this rather adds to the wonder.
I here omit to speak at large of the severalHypotheseswhich have been invented to solve this difficulty: such assubterraneous vents, cavities and indraughts,exhalationsby theSun-beams, the running out of the water on theAfrican side, as if there were a kind of circular motion of the water, and that it only flowed in upon theChristianshore: which latter I look upon as a meer fancy, and contrary to all observation.
My conjecture is, that there is anunder-Current, whereby as great a quantity of water is carried out, as comes flowing in. To confirm which, besides what I have said above about the difference of tides in theoffing, and at theShorein theDowns, which necessarily supposes anunder-Current, I shall present youwith an instance of the like nature in theBaltick Sound, as I received it from an able Seaman, who was at the making of the tryal.
He told me, that being there in one of theKing'sFrigats, they went with theirPinnaceinto themiddle stream, and were carried violently by theCurrent: that soon after they sank abucketwith a largeCannonbullet to a certaindepthof water, which gave check to the boats motion, and sinking it still lower and lower, theboatwas driven a-head to wind-ward against the upperCurrent: thecurrentaloft, as he added, not being above 4 or 5fathomdeep, and that the lower the bucket was let fall, they found theunder-Currentthe stronger. I designed to have made theExperimentin theStreights-Channel; but both times I past, the Easterly wind blew so hard, that there was no putting out the boat with any safety; nor indeed at those times had we any leisure for such aCuriosity; which those, who liv'd atTangier, might have tryed without any difficulty or danger.
This conjecture, how likely or unlikely soever, will stand or fall according to the certainty of theObservations, which shall be made there, which I will endeavour to procure in order to the further establishment, or utter overthrow of it.
13. We weighed out ofTangierand turned into theStrait, though against the Wind. The distance betweenGibraltarCape, which gives name to theStraits, and is joyned to the Continent ofSpainandCeutaa well-built and strongly fortified Town, lying under the HillAlybe, called so by theGreeks, whichthe Seamen commonly call, as do someSpanishWriters,Apes-hill, from the great number of Apes which used formerly to haunt there, (at which placesHerculesis feigned to have set up his Pillars) may be about six Leagues; tho' both Lands lying very high (for we saw the Clouds much below them) it does not appear in the middle of the Current, out of a tall Ship, scarce half so broad.
14. Little Wind stirring.
15. A great Mist all the Sea over, so that we could scarce see three lengths of the Ship, which began to vanish in the Afternoon; and than we descryed theCape of Malagaat about four Leagues distance; and came to an Anchor that Night. The City lies under a high Hill, and is the Seat of a Bishop, who is at this time a Natural Son of KingPhilipthe Fourth, of the Order of St.Dominic. Here the Merchants told us, that it had not rained for seven Months together, except a day or two for an Hour: and that theAlgerines, who were then breaking with us, had not been able to have set a Fleet to Sea about two years before, if they had not been furnished with Masts fromEngland; and that they were now in Expectation of another Ship laden with the same, notwithstanding the Rupture, which was as good as began. I only make a Query, WhetherJewsorEnglishMen were the Freighters?
16. The next Morning the Governour immediately returned our Salute Gun for Gun: soon after we weighed fromMalagaRoad, the Weather very hot. Some Rain fell at Night, though very moderately. In theEvening, after we had sailed about eighteen Leagues, we were becalm'd. The Sea being quiet, we saw a great number ofTortoisesswimming above Water, severalBottle-noses, fish of about three yards long, and very thick, and Hawks flying over to theBarbaryCoast. The Hills ofGranadawere seen plainly by us, though at a great distance.
The Wind coming Easterly, we kept at Sea, beating and plying to and again for these four days, scarce gaining sixteen Leagues of our way, and were forc'd to come to an Anchor in theBay of Adera, where there is a strong Cittadel, about thirty four or thirty five Leagues fromMalaga.
21. We passed byCape de Gata: but the Levant wind still blowing, having continued almost in that Point for above two Months, as we computed from what they had told us atTangier, we could make but little progress in our Voyage.
25. Between three and four of the Clock in the Morning the Tornado's began to blow, and the Wind violent for the time, with such continued Flashes of Lightning for several hours, as that the whole Sky seemed to be on fire, intermixed with terrible Claps of Thunder, after which followed great showers of Rain.
25. The Wind still contrary, we descryedCape St. Martinat about fifteen Leagues distance. Tacking about and standing off to Seaward, next Morning 27. we found that we had lost about three Leagues of our way.
28. We were athwartOrlando's Gapwithin two Leagues of the Shore,Cape St. Martinbearing off usN.byW.The Wind now still; but a swelling Sea coming from the Westward, which is usual before a Wind, which drives the Water before it.
OnMichaelmas-daywe were up with the IslandIvica, orIvise, as the Mariners call it, and the Wind blowing fair, we stood our Course; and the next day at Noon we made theIsland Majorca, situate over against the Kingdom ofValentia, and came to an Anchor in theBayof the City, being forced in hither for want of fresh Water. In the Afternoon the Boat was sent on shore; but the Vice-Roy would not give us Prattick, not bringing a Patent fromMalaga.
Octob. 1.The Secretary was sent with the King's Pass to the Vice-Roy to demand Prattick, who presently summoned the Officers of theSanita. After long Debates and Delays they consented, and came to theMoleto receive him. He went directly to the Governour to acquaint him, that we were ready to Salute the City with what number of Guns he pleased, if he would engage upon his Honour to give us as many. He replied, that he would give us three for five; and wondered, that we being but a single Ship, should make such a Demand. The Secretary told him, That we were to be treated as an Admiral, having a Flag on our Maintop; and that the Governour ofMalagahad done it. To this he said, ThatMajorcawas a Kingdom, that he was the King's Representative, and that by Reason of the Miscarriage of his Predecessor, when Monsieurde Beaufort, theFrenchAdmiral wasthere, he had received strict Orders fromMadridnot to do the like. The Secretary replied, That we had an Ambassador on board, and had as strict Orders, and should answer as severely for the Breach of them. His last Answer was, That we might, with our Sails loose, keep before the Town, till we had furnished our selves with what we wanted. Upon receiving this Message, the Ambassador dispatched away oneJoseph Gabriel Cortez, aSpaniard, but employed by theEnglishMerchants trading to that Island, then on board our Ship, to acquaint him, That when we were ready to go away, we would loose our Sails, and not before. We landed within theMole; the Walk upon it about four or five Yards broad; at the Extremity of which is a very large and stately Gate, which leads into the City. We went into the great Church, somewhat wider thanWestminster-Abbey, but darkish within: the Portal very magnificent, adorned with several Marble Statues in Niches one over another. The High Altar very plain and unadorned: but others extraordinary rich and glorious. Not far from the City are several Mills to grind their Olives, Oyl being the great Commodity of the Island.
2. The next Morning we weighed, without taking any kind of notice of the Town, sailing all along in sight of the Island, which presented us with a pleasing and delightful Prospect; the Valleys, lying under the Hills, fruitful of Wine and Corn. The whole Island is judged to be about sixty Leagues in Compass, and in length about fifteen: which wesailed from the Westermost Point, where lies the IsleDragovera, at a very little distance to the Eastermost, where there is built a small Fort. To the S. S. E. lie several little Islands, called theCabreas; between which andMajorcawe steered.
3. We were athwartPort MaoninMinorca; a fine level Country, having but one Hill in it N. W. by W. as it bore off us. In the Evening the Wind very scant.
4. This day, as yesterday, excessive hot.
5. In the Afternoon we descryed the Main Land ofProvence.
6. We were over against the IslandsHieresand the Highland ofThoulon.
7, 8. These two Days becalmed; and the Sea extraordinary smooth.
9. We were over against the Westermost part of theAlpes, which we distinctly saw at about twenty Leagues distance, and appeared far higher than the Hills ofGranada.
10. We sailed byFinalandVentimiglia.
12. We came in the Morning to an Anchor over against theMole, and not far from the Lantern inGenoa. Having obtained Prattick of theMaestri della Sanita, after a little demur about the Salute, the Senate being assembled, and some of them protesting upon their Honours, and ready to produce their Registers, that they never saluted the Ship wherein was an Ambassador ofFranceorSpain, as not taking any notice of the Person who did bear that Character, 'till they had first intimation, that the Ship was arrived in their Port by its saluting the Town. It was agreed that the Ship should Salute theTown with eleven Guns, which they were to answer, as they did, with an equal number: and after a little pause, they saluted the Ambassador with nineteen more, which was answered with as many. After this, the Duke and Senate sent the Master of the Ceremonies to wait upon the Ambassador: who going away, returned soon after with a Present of Calves, Fowl, Wine, Sweetmeats,&c.and acquainted his Lordship, that they had deputed six of their Gentlemen to Complement him, and wait upon him; which Civility he thought fit to refuse, desiring to beIncognito. But however, going ashore, he was welcomed by theIllustrissimi Signiori, theDurazzo's, two Brothers, the elder of which had been Ambassador for the Republick, in the Court ofEngland, and the other atConstantinople, and by them carried to see theVillasout of Town. The figure ofGenoais Semicircular, beginning from the Lantern Westward, lying under an high Hill, upon the rising of which the several Houses, built of Marble, afford a very fine Prospect, and add much to the Beauty and Glory of the place.Strada nuovaperchance is the most stately Street in the whole World. The new Church of theAnnunciata, built by theLomellini, where a thousand may go up the stairs abreast at the same time, for curious Painting, rich Altars, and exactness of Architecture, incomparable. TheDuomealso and the Church of theTheatinsvery stately and curious. Other matters I purposely omit.
14. In the Evening we set Sail fromGenoa.
Becalmed for the most part these three Days, though helped somewhat forward by the Breezes that blew off the shore after Sun set.
18. In the Afternoon we made the IslandGorgonia, about nine Leagues fromLivorne; a little round Island, with a Castle on the top.
19. In the Morning we came to an Anchor inLivorneRoad, about a Mile from the Town: the Road large and secure, especially to the Northward. The Ambassador keeps on Board, the Governour refusing to Salute the Ship first, though he had formerly saluted theFrench; pretending that every Convoy might carry a Flag; and alledging that his Master, the Grand Duke, was as great and absolute, as the Republick ofGenoa: and that they had rather throw themselves upon the King ofEngland, than do a thing which might prove of such an ill Consequence. SirJohn Finch, his Majesty's Resident, together with SirThomas Baines, came fromFlorenceto Complement the Ambassador, and immediately dispatched away a Courier to the Grand Duke about the Salute; who referred the whole Affair to the Governor: and he making a Protest that he was ready to pay all the respect which was due to the Ambassador's Character and Quality, upon the fore-mentioned Pretensions, six days, after our arrival, absolutely refused to Salute the Ship first.
Livorneis the great Magazine of Trade for theLevant, being a free Port: Merchants of all Countries residing here,Armeniansespecially, andJews; which latter enjoy great Priviledges, without wearing any distinct Mark in their Hats or Habits, whereby they may be known. They are allow'd the publick Exercise of their Religion: their Synagogue large and handsome. The Port inward has aMolefor the Duke's Galleys and other small Vessels to ride in: the Entrance of which is chained up every Night. Hard by is the Statue of DukeFerdinandin Marble, raised upon an high Pedestal; under which are four Slaves in Brass, in different Postures, very large, and above the ordinary proportion, but done with exquisite and admirable Art. Two Castles to the Seaward well fortified: the Town Walls very high, and the four Gates strongly guarded: below which is a Ditch of about fifteen or twenty yards over, and very deep. No Stranger is allowed to view the Works, nor Souldier permitted to come out of the Castles. About four thousand Slaves are there, as the Merchants told us, who are lockt up in theBagnoevery Night. ThePiazza, where the Merchants meet, is adorned with Marble Pillars, which sustain the Porticos: at the East end of which is the great Church whose Roof appears very glorious, having several Circles richly gilded and painted with curious Figures.
The broad Street is paved between two and three yards on each side with Free-stone.
27. In the Afternoon we weighed out ofLivorneRoad, and sailed by the IslandsGorgoniaandCapraria, seeingCorsicaat a distance.
28. We lay beating at Sea all this Day, the Wind being contrary.
29. This Day we were forced back, the contrary Winds still continuing.
30. We weighed a second time, and sailed by three small Islands,Capraria,Planasia, andMonte Christi. We saw alsoGigioandSanuti, two other small Islands near the Main: but we made but little way, by reason of ill Weather for 4 or 5 Days.
Novemb. 5.At Evening we saw the Eruptions of Fire fromStromboli, which lies to the N. W. ofSicily. Sometimes it flamed very bright Light as aBeacon, at other times there appeared only a glorious kind of Light, like that of an ordinary Star when the Air is thick and hazy. They say that it flames most in rainy Weather.
6. In the Morning we were up within a League of it, and plainly perceived it to smoke. It is of a round figure, and, as we gathered, may be about three or four Miles in compass. It bore W. by S. of us. Not far from it lye scattered several other Islands, called by the AncientsÆoliœandVulcaniœ: among which areLipara, a long flattish Island, andVulcanello, which smokes most. This Afternoon we came to an Anchor in eight Fathom Water in thePhareofMessina, in the mid Stream betweenScyllaandCharybdis: a violent and strong Current setting against us, and the Wind not high enough, so as tobe able to stemm it. The breadth of theStraitfromMessinatoRhegiummay be about a League. The Land is very high on theCalabrianside, where are very steep Rocks, and great depth of Water, above 150 Fathom, as they told us: but on theSicilianside, nearCharybdisShole-water, and usually an Eddy. On the Sandy Banks stands the Phare or Watch-tower. Several Currents meeting in this narrow Passage, cause a great rippling of the Water: and great quantity of Water coming in, as the Winds drive, in great quantity meeting with the Shole, is broken into Waves. The Eddies here are caused by the meeting of the different Currents by which the Waters are sometimes carried N. and sometimes S. the great danger is, lest they drive the Ship on either side. We have had Lightning for seven or eight Nights together.
7. We sail'd byÆtna, now calledMongibel, where the Sea widens ten or eleven Leagues over. Now we see plainly the Smoke briskly issuing out of theCrater, theLimbusof which was all black. The uppermost part of the Mountain was covered with Snow, except some streaks of Ashes, as we judge, which lie as it were in a Gutter, spread here and there.
8. We espied aSaettiaat about 3 Leagues distance, and making up to her, found her forsaken. The Captain sent several Seamen on board, and carried the Vessel toSmyrna.
Scanty Wind for several Days: and the Lightning still continued.
13. We were up withCape Modona, the Southernmost Cape of theMorea, and sailed byCoron. The Land very high, the Hills ofArcadialying Eastward from us. The Weather excessive hot at this time, as it is inEnglandatMidsummer. We espied from our Maintop-mast five Sail of great Ships, which we supposed to beTripolines, who did not think fit to come up and speak with us. But afterward we heard for certain, that they were part of theVenetianFleet.
14. We lay for the most part becalmed over againstCape Matapan: but in the Evening the Wind blowing fresh, we sailed between the Island ofCerigoand the Main Land ofGreece; it being about three Leagues over toCape Angelo.
15. We entred the Arches, and steered through the North Channel, leavingMeloandAntimeloon the Starboard-quarter, at some Leagues distance.
16. Betimes in the Morning we were athwartNegropont, and sailed between it andAndros. TheBoccalies S. W. and N. E.
17. We sailed byChiosorScio, which is very mountainous toward the middle. It is about four Leagues distant fromCape Caraboroun, or theCape of the black Nose, as theTurkishword signifies, which the Seamen, in their usual way of corrupting Names, callCape Jobbernoule, theCorinœumof the Ancients, a Promontory of the famous MountainMimas, which runs along the Southern side of theBay of Smyrna.
This Day theSmyrnaFleet fromEnglandcomes up to us very luckily, to our great Satisfaction and Joy.
18. We are now got into theBay of Smyrna, and come to an Anchor without the Castle, not far from St.Jacomo's Point, as the Seamen call it, or ratherSangiac Point. In the Afternoon the Consul, with several Gentlemen of the Factory, came to wait upon my Lord Ambassador, and desired his Lordship to defer his Entrance intoSmyrnatill the Twentieth, that he might be received with greater Honour. That Evening we heard a great howling ofJackallsupon the Hills.
20. The Consul with the Nation, accompanied with hisDruggermenandJanizariesin theirHabit, together with severalFrench,DutchandGenoeseMerchants, residing in that famous Emporium, came to the Village near the Castle, who there expected us with Horses. Upon our going ashore, theLeopardfired fifty one Guns. We made about 140 Horse; and immediately upon our setting forth, we rode for about three Miles together under the Hill to the S. W. ofSmyrna; the places adjoyning set thick with Olive, Fig, and Almond-trees. Afterwards we clambered over some rocky Ascents; but the Horses of the Country being sure-footed, we were in no danger of falling. Some little way we were forced to ride on the Sea-shore, and soon after came to the Jews burying place, whose Monuments lie flat upon the ground. As soon as we entred into the City, we found the Streets full ofGreeks,Armenians,Turks,andJews, whom Curiosity had drawn together to see and observe our Cavalcade; theEnglishShips, which were in theBay, firing their Guns, as we past near the Shore. And so after three hours riding the Ambassador was brought to the Consul's House, where Lodgings were provided for him. During our stay we met with not only kind, but very noble Entertainment from the worthy Gentlemen of the Factory.
Decemb. 8.We took our leave ofSmyrna, being accompanied by the Consul and Merchants on board theLondon-Merchant, Capt.John HillCommander, theLeopardbeing ordered to go no further thanSmyrna, it being feared inEngland, that if she had sailed up toConstantinople, theTurksmight have press'd her for their Service inCandia, which they were then besieging.
9. This Morning we weighed betimes, and sailed betweenScioandMytilene. But on the
10. We were forced back near the long Island within the Bay, being unwilling to go toScio, theTripolinesandTurkishGalleys lying there. Here we lay ten Days, expecting a fair Wind.
20. The Wind coming about and favouring us, we sailed a second time betweenScioandMytilene.
21. We past byLemnos, and were up with the IslandTenedos; a fine Champaign Country, only with one Hill toward the middle of it. The Castle to the N. E. part of the Isle: over against which lye three small Islands in a strait Line. Here we came to anAnchor. We saw the Ruins ofTroasat a distance, but did not think it safe to go ashore.
22. The Wind coming about at S. we entred theHellespont, which may be about two Leagues and a half over. The Castles built upon the opposite points of Land, about 11 or 12 Years before, after the great Defeat given theTurkish Armataat theDardanelsby theVenetians;Cape Janizaryon theAsianside; which, with thePhilæum, makes a tolerable good Bay for ordinary Vessels. The narrowest Strait of theHellespontis at the two other Castles, distant about six Leagues, where it may be about ¾ of a Mile wide. These theChristianscall theDardanelli; at which are situate the Towns,SestusandAbydus, famous inGreekPoesie. These Castles we saluted with our Guns and Trumpets, as we did the first: but each, whether out of Pride, or out of Covetousness, to save theGrand Signior's Powder, return'd us no more than two Guns. The Wind blowing very fair we sailed into thePropontis.
23. We passed by St.Stephano's Point, where we had a full view of the S. E. Angle ofConstantinople, which being situated upon several Hills to a mighty advantage, what with the Cypress-Trees intermixed, and what with the gilded Spires of theMoschs, yielded us a very diverting glorious Prospect. Passing by theSeraglio Point, which we saluted by a discharge of several Guns, in the mid Stream between it and theTophana, we came to an Anchor.
26. On St.Stephen's Day the Ambassador landed atGalata, (having before been visited by the Earl ofWinchelsea, and the Merchants residing there) and was received there by theChiaus Bashaand theVaivodofGalata, theJanizariesandChiausesattending, and was waited upon by them to his Palace: and soon after theKaimacam, or Governor ofConstantinople, sent an Officer to Complement him upon his Arrival; theGrand Signiorbeing then atLarissainThessaly.
January 2.The Ambassadors, Old and New, went over toConstantinople, that Morning being assigned by theKaimacamto give them Audience, theChiaus Bashaand other Officers attending at the Water-side to receive them; Horses being brought thither for them and their Followers to mount. ThisKaimakam Jusuph, a little old Man, had formerly been a Page of the Chamber, and chief Falconer, and afterwardsBashaofSilistria. He entertained the Ambassadors and their Company with Perfumes, Coffee, and Sherbet, and distributed about fifteenKoftans Orrestsamong them: after about an Hours stay they took their leave.
Being upon the Coasts ofGreeceaboutAugustorSeptember69. in the Latitude of 35°. 53´. we found by ourAzimouthCompass, that we had Westerly variation there 5°. 22´.
The variety of Colours of the Sea-Water at several times chiefly depends upon the Wind and Weather, and the reflexion of the Light upon it. It's usual and mostnatural Colour is a deep Green: but in Cloudy and Rainy Weather, the Surface of the Water appears blackish. On theGoodwinsupon the Tide of Flood, the Water was white, the Waves by reason of the Shallows, meeting with opposition, and breaking into Foam, till the Flood is well advanced. Sometimes the Water is of a perfect Azure colour, as we observed for several Weeks in theMediterranean. The Sun shining bright upon the Water, sometimes the upper part of the Waves appears Purplish, sometimes Reddish; though in Shallows perchance it may receive this latter Tincture also from the Sands which lie under it. When the Wind has freshened, and the Ship has been under full Sail, I have observed the Waves to the head, and at the sides of the Ship, to appear with a pale kind of brightness: and atMalaga, and at my return, going on board our Ship, which lay about half a League from the shore, at Night, the Wind then at East, the Boats Crew letting their Oar fall roughly into the Water, diverted us as it were with the sight of a continued Flame, raised by their rowing; which I ascribe rather to the Saline Particles of the Sea-Water, which were then put into a violent Agitation, than to the Spawn of Fish, as some of our Company imagined.
Sailing toward the West ofPortland, we saw severalPorpiscesplaying with their Heads above Water; which I mention only, because the Seamen look upon them as fore-runners of a Storm; the Wind soonafter blowing very hard at North by East. And afterwards arriving atConstantinople, the Wind blowing a stiff Gale at North, I observed with a pleasing kind of astonishment good part of thePropontis, that is, from theSeraglio Pointtoward the Islands, which lye against theBay of Nicomedia, Eastward and South-East from us, as far as we could see, covered as it were withPorpisces, which appeared every where in great abundance. So that I am very apt to believe thatJulius SolinusinChap.12. of hisPolykisteris to be understood ofPorpisces, and not ofDolphins, now properly so called, though that be his Word, speaking of theBosphorusandPropontis:Hæc profunda Delphinas plurimos habent: and soon after,ante omnia nihil velocius habent maria, sic ut plerunque transvolent vela navium. I could not hear that anyDolphinsare caught in those Seas by theGreeks, whose Poverty, added to the love which their Nation has for Fish, and the advantage arising thence, upon the account of their solemn Fasts and Abstinences from all Flesh, even to a wonderful strictness and scrupulosity, has made them excellent Fishermen: nor did I ever see any in their Fish-Markets, or see one of them brought to the Ambassador's Table by the Proveditor for curiosity: Though otherwise it is an excellently well tasted Fish, especially when soused. I allow, that they will swim very swiftly, as do thePorpisces; and that they will follow a Ship for several Leagues together: but then they Swim somewhat deepin the Water, sometimes are catch'd, though not often. The Seamen have reached them with a Fisgig, a kind of barbed Iron, at the End of a Pole tied fast to a Rope, and have made good Chear with them. But this is only my Conjecture, with which I end my Journal.
Deo Servatori Laus.