After having ventured to correct these errors of the Abbé, it would be injustice if I did not bear testimony to the authenticity of his description in other respects. The scaly leprosy, which he mentions, is common amongst them: we at first believed it to be the small-pox, to which it bears a great resemblance; but, from an attentive inspection being made by Mr.Arnot, our surgeon, he was of opinion, that the latter disease had not as yet reached them, or that, if it had, it must have been in its mildest form. Almost all the men are afflicted withophthalmia, and wear the wooden shades which the Abbé has described; but, as I before mentioned, few of the women labour under this disease. The pendant breasts of the latter have certainly a disgusting appearance; yet it is so common amongst them, that one of the young girls shewed me, with conscious pride, that her breasts hadnot as yet been thus relaxed; intimating, that she differed from the other dusky damsels in this respect, and was therefore to be considered as an object of greater admiration. From which it is evident, that they consider long breasts as a deformity, even among themselves.
With respect to their winter habitations, it is more probable that the Abbé is correct, than that those persons are so, who entertain the notion of their residing in caverns; but it is not certain that theEsquimauxlive in a state of total inactivity during the winter: they must, doubtless, leave their retreats daily, in search of food: and that they do not depend on the water for all their supplies, is very evident, from the number of deer-skins which may be observed in every habitation.
It is now pretty well ascertained that thetribes ofEsquimaux, inhabiting the northern shores ofHudson’s Straits, migrate, in the fall of the year, towards the south; for the double purpose of taking up their winter quarters, and of procuring fuel and game amongst the pine-tree forests ofLabrador. The northern shore ofHudson’s Straitsis, from end to end, a barren rock; having no mark of vegetation, except here and there a tuft or two of wild sorrel, or scurvy-grass: consequently, the wooden frame-work of the canoes, the poles for their summer-tents, and the handles of their fishing-spears, can only be procured by theEsquimauxduring their annual migrations to the coast ofLabrador. Add to this, that, on our visit to their tents, we observed five or six large boats, hauled up on the shore, and completely laden with all sorts of furs and necessaries, as if preparatory to a speedy removal of the whole tribe into winter quarters.
I should not have been led into so long a digression, had it not been from a wish to correct the very erroneous statements, of even the most eminent authors, respecting this singular race. That those authors have derived their descriptions from the confused accounts of other writers, is evident, by the gross mistakes they have fallen into. It is indeed probable, that, of those who have written upon this subject, no one ever personally visited theEsquimaux: neither is it a surprising thing that they have not done this, because theEsquimauxhave always been represented hostile to strangers, prone to treachery, and exceedingly disgusting in their persons.
To return, then, to our party.—We continued roving for some time amongst the habitations of theEsquimaux; and could not help admiring the various ways inwhich they contrive to render the seal useful: indeed, this creature may be said to supply them with food, light, clothes, houses, beds, boats, and casks. The blubber of the seal is either eaten, or converted into oil for the winter lamps; the skin, with the hair on, is made into frocks, breeches, boots, and stockings; and with the hair scraped off, and well oiled, the skin serves also for a covering to their houses and boats: numbers of them, heaped together with the skins of bears and deer, constitute their beds: lastly, after having carefully skinned a seal, the females sew the hide neatly up; then fill it with wind, like a bladder, and dry it in the sun; and, after this preparation, it fully answers all the purposes of a cask, for containing oil, or any other liquid for which it may be required; in the same manner as the mountaineers ofSpainandPortugalcarry their wine in the skins of animals.
TheEsquimauxhave various methods of killing the seal; but the most common is, by spearing him with a long lance, which they discharge from athrowing stick, exactly in the same manner as described byCookto be in use among the natives ofOtaheite. The seal, when once struck, becomes an easy prey: a large bladder, affixed to the dart, effectually prevents his sinking; and a heavy log of wood, also fastened to the dart, acts as a drag, to prevent his swimming away with any velocity. They have also a manner of passing the handle of the lance through the centre of a sort of tambourine; which, in this case, is substituted for the drag: of course, the seal is soon exhausted, with the efforts he is compelled to make, in pulling this machine against the water; and a blow on the nose, from his pursuers, soon puts a period to his existence.
After leaving their huts, we stood on the top of a hill, with the whole of the remaining population of the place around us:—I say, the remaining population; because many of the natives were still trafficking on board the ships. From their numbers, I should think that either several families must reside in one tent, or that there were other hamlets along the shore, at a short distance, from whence we had visitors; as the assemblage on the hill with us consisted of ten men, twenty women, and fourteen children; and yet there were only nine finished tents, and four or five in the frame.
Nothing, as before observed, can be more troublesome than the continual solicitations of these people for gifts; men, women, and children, tormented us incessantly with “Pillitay! pillitay! pillitay!” It became therefore, at last, absolutely necessary, inour own defence, to invent some means of diverting their attention from these importunities. Accordingly, one of our party, who was well acquainted with the manners of theIndiansinHudson’s Bay, began a song in the language of theCreetribe. TheEsquimauxgaped with great astonishment and evident pleasure, preserving the most profound silence, until he gave a loud shout, as a finale; when they sat up an universal shouting and jumping, and it appeared as if they were half beside themselves with delight: yet we were certain that they understood nothing of the sense of the song. We thought this a good opportunity to petition them for a similar favour: our signs were instantly comprehended, and a ring immediately formed, consisting entirely of women, with the exception of an old man, whom we recognised to have seen before, as steersman of one of the large women’s boats.This old man began the song; walking, at the same time, in a circle; followed by the women, with their backs to each other. At a certain turn in the air, the women all raised their voices; I shall not say in a chorus, as it appeared more like a continuation of the song. After a short time, the women suffered their voices to die gradually away, in the most plaintive manner; and the old man again resumed the song alone, until a similar turn again brought in the women’s voices. This alternation lasted a considerable time; during which they still continued to walk round in a circle, and all the while bestowed the most friendly smiles upon us. Meantime, the men stood scattered outside the ring; and whenever the old man resumed his song, they jumped, shouted, and laughed, in the most extravagant manner. One of the men at last kissed two of the females, making plain signs forus to take the same liberty, in rotation, with the whole circle; at the same time uttering, repeatedly, the exclamation, “Coo-nee!” We, however, pretended not to comprehend his meaning, as we were not at all desirous of so indiscriminate a salutation. I noticed one of the women earnestly making the same gesticulations, and crying out “Coo-nee!” also; but as we did not comply, they soon after finished the song. We adopted their own method of jumping and shouting, to express our satisfaction; at which they seemed particularly well pleased.
Preparing now to leave this interesting spot, we descended to the sea, followed by the whole of the natives: and as I turned about to observe if there were any thing belonging to their tents which had before escaped our notice, my eyes rested upon agroup of about a dozen huge dogs, around a piece of whale blubber. It is really surprising what numbers of these animals theEsquimauxuselessly support during summer; but they are amply repaid by the benefits derived from them in the winter; as the dogs are then employed to drag the sledge of their owners, after the manner of the reindeer inLapland. InNewfoundland, and in its environs, large dogs are also used, for the purpose of transporting fire-wood, and other articles, over the snow: and I have been assured, by a respectable merchant, who resides occasionally atLance-a-Loup Bayon the southern coast ofLabrador, that he has travelled one hundred miles in twenty-four hours, in a sledge drawn by ten brace of dogs: they are not accustomed to reins, but two well-trained dogs are placed foremost, and the whole are then managed by a singular kind of whip, the use of which it is difficult to acquire, as the handle is but three feet long, and the lash fifteen.[16]
Sledge drawn by Dogs.used by European Traders at Hudson’s Bay, and on the Southern Coast of Labrador
Sledge drawn by Dogs.used by European Traders at Hudson’s Bay, and on the Southern Coast of Labrador
Engraved by J. Smith & Clements Inc. StrandBark Canoe of the Cree Indians in Hudsons Bay.London Published by J. Mawman 13thMay 1817
Engraved by J. Smith & Clements Inc. StrandBark Canoe of the Cree Indians in Hudsons Bay.London Published by J. Mawman 13thMay 1817
After giving away amongst the natives all the metals we possessed, even to the buttons of our coats, we embarked; and resting upon our oars, at a trifling distance from the shore, we gave them three hearty cheers. This was merely intended by us as an experiment; but the effect produced by it surpassed in interest any thing that we had yet seen amongst this people.
The echoes of our huzzas had scarce subsided, before the three young girls, who had attended us the whole day, stepped down to the edge of the water; having each of them previously drawn on a pair of gloves made of white feathers. They firstheld out their arms, in an horizontal position, with the fingers extended; then waved them to and fro, with an undulating motion; and, at last, suddenly sunk them towards the earth. Again, recommencing for a short time the waving of their hands, they finished this affecting ceremony by extending both arms, to their full extent, towards the right side, pointing their snow-white gloves towards the sky. They continued to repeat the same motions without the least variation, until we began to pull away from the shore; when they ceased entirely, and retired into the crowd of natives, who had stood behind the three girls during the foregoing exhibition, and, in profound silence, appeared to be watching every motion. Never had we seen a more interesting spectacle: the youngEsquimauxkept the most exact time with each other, and accompanied their gestures by the most graceful motion oftheir heads; their eyes bespeaking, at the same time, the most tender solicitude for our safety. It is not a trifling matter that can agitate, even for a moment, the rough feelings of a seaman; yet the crews of our boats sat, during this scene, in mute astonishment, with their mouths wide open; and at last, with the utmost reluctance, we tore ourselves away.
Unlike the generality of savage nations, this people did not exhibit any dances peculiar to themselves: the only instance that we observed, to prove they have an idea of dancing, was on board the ship; here a young girl threw one leg out, and then another, alternately, for some time; when, stopping suddenly, she shut her eyes, and, holding her head down, fell to moaning and howling, as if in great pain: next followed a convulsive gurgling in the throat, and deep-drawn sighs; thengradually opening her eyes, and relaxing her features into a smile, she repeated the whole over again.
It is a curious fact, that the inland or hunting tribes ofIndiansinHudson’s Baybelieve theEsquimauxto be a nation of sorcerers. Should the season prove a bad one in procuring their furs, they say that theEsquimauxhave enchanted the game; and they then set off to the northward, to punish them accordingly. Whenever they discover the tents of the supposed magicians, they remain lurking about the place until a favourable opportunity offers; when, raising the dreadful war-whoop, they rush on to the attack with inconceivable fury. Every individual of the vanquished is instantly massacred, whether they make resistance, or implore for mercy. The animosity between them is hereditary, bloody, and implacable.
When Mr.Hearnetravelled to theN. W.in search of the long-sought passage to theSouthern Ocean, he was escorted by a party ofCree Indians, and was himself an eye-witness of the massacre of anEsquimauxtribe; although he used his most earnest entreaties with his conductors, to spare an innocent-looking young girl who had supplicated his protection: theIndiansfrowned furiously upon him; and asking, with haughty contempt,if he wanted an Esquimaux wife, they speared her to death on the spot[17].
It is rather remarkable, that the habitations of theEsquimauxhad never before been visited by the officers of theHudson’s-Bayships, although they had often landed in the Straits: but this may be explained in two ways. In the first place, theEsquimauxare evidently anxious to conceal their places of abode; secondly, the commanders of theHudson’s-Bayships have directions from the Company not to go on shore amongst theEsquimauxthemselves, nor to send their boats; and they have orders also to be continually on their guard, in all communications with this people. Possibly these orders have been issued since the horrid termination of an attempt to establish a permanent white whale fishery atRichmond; and probably that circumstance may have given rise to the regulation. I shall relate the dreadful story in the sequel, when I reach that part of my Narrative where it will be necessary to give a short description of the factories inHudson’s Bay: it would be considered as too long a digression to insert it at present. We had the good fortune, therefore, to be the firstEuropeanswho, for the last forty years, have visited thehabitations of theEsquimaux. I have thus been enabled to describe them fully, from my own observations. And there is another point upon which I am able to speakpositively, although the circumstance did not fall under my own inspection: I allude to the manner of disposing of their dead.
His Majesty’s shipBrazen, CaptainStirling, in the year 1813, convoyed theHudson’s-Bayships into the Bay. CaptainStirlingand some of his officers landed in the Straits, but could not find any habitations of the natives: however, in wandering about the hills, they discovered an object of no less curiosity; namely, the dead body of anEsquimaux: it was closely wrapt in skins, and laid in a sort of gully between two rocks, as if intended to be defended from the cold winds of the ocean: by the side of the corpse lay the bow and arrows, spears, and harpoon of the deceased; together with a tin pot,containing a few beads and three or fourEnglishhalfpence: the last articles had evidently been procured by the deceased in traffic with the Company’s ships.
The reason of the body having been laid on the surface of the earth, is in consequence of the impossibility of penetrating the flinty rock, of which the whole coast is composed; and the custom of depositing his arms by the side of the corpse of a deceasedIndian, is common to many barbarous nations.[18]
As it may be expected that something should be said respecting the government and religion of theEsquimaux, I shall briefly state, that they did not appear to me to trouble their heads with either. They certainly paid great respect to the old man who sang to us the song before mentioned; but it does not necessarily follow that he was either a prince or a priest. It is probable that they venerated him more on account of his age, than from any civil or ecclesiastical authority with which he was invested. But theEsquimaux, and all other nations aroundHudson’s Bay, have a notion of a superior spirit, whom they concur in stylingManéto, orGood Spirit. It is not known whether theEsquimauxhave any idea of an Evil Being; but theCree Indiansimagine that there is a great number of that species, whose sole delight consists in tormenting mankind[19].
With respect to the language of theEsquimaux, I have been able to collect a few specimens: and I shall insert, against each word, in what part of the coast each expression was ascertained to be in use, and the authority from whence I derived my information.
Having given a short account of theEsquimaux, their manners, and customs, I may now proceed with my Journal as before; and content myself with making a few cursory remarks, as we sail along.
August1st.—The whole of this day we continued offSaddle Back[20]; as theHudson’s-Bayships had some arrangements to make, previous to their final separation, which always takes place offMansfield Island, at the entrance ofHudson’s Bay. Towards evening, we began to ply to windward, with a fresh breeze at west. Thermometer 40° in the shade.
August2d.—Beating to windward with a strong breeze, in the afternoon we hove-to offIcy Cove, about a mile to the westward of two remarkable hills, called theVirgin’s Paps, which last lay nine leagues to the westward ofSaddle Back. On firing a gun and hoisting our colours, we were immediately visited by another party ofEsquimaux: there was no difference whatever in their appearance from those we had seen before. One of our officers purchased a canoe of a native, for which he paid a kettle, a lance, a saw, and a spoon. Our curiosity was considerably excited, to observe in what manner this man would contrive to reach the shore; and we really entertained serious apprehensions for his safety, when we perceived him stretch himself out upon his belly on another canoe, at the back of the man who used the paddle. He was in this dangerous position conveyed to land, not daring to lift his head, through fear of destroying the equilibrium of the canoe; which did not swim two inches above the surface of the sea.
After night-fall, we were compelled to tack ship about, to avoid a large patch of floating ice.
August3d.—We continued plying to windward all this day; and in the evening we had reachedUpper Savage Island. It lays about twenty-three leagues to the west ofSaddle Back, in an opening which has never been explored. Thermometer 32° in the sun.
August4th.—Towards the evening of this day we had a fair wind, the ship butting her way through immense quantities of ice. Passed by a bluff cape, calledPoint Look-out. This cape is eight leagues to the west ofUpper Savage Island. We saw a number ofEsquimauxfollowing us among the windings of the loose ice. These poor creatures laboured hard to overtake us, hallooing and shouting “Chymo!” but we werenow exceedingly anxious to get forward, and therefore could not wait for them; at which their disappointment must have been great.
August5th.—This morning forcing our way with difficulty through the ocean of ice that surrounded us; at length, being enveloped in a thick fog, and the wind dying away, we lashed our ship to a large piece of ice; and firing three guns as a signal for our convoy to do the same, we were astonished at the effect produced by the cannon, The explosion issued like thunder over the ice; then appeared to roll rumbling back towards the ship; bellowing forth again in tremendous peals. The echo died away in distant reverberation.
Shortly afterwards, we imagined that we could distinguish the sound of voices through the fog: we immediately beat thedrum, to point out our situation; and, in a few minutes, we plainly heard the shouting of theEsquimaux: they soon came alongside the ship, with the usual expressions of delight. It is really surprising that this people should venture so far from the land, in such frail barks, through a mass of ice which is enough to daunt anEuropean, even in a stout-built ship.
The fog clearing away, we cast the ship loose, and endeavoured to force our way forward among the ice; until, from its increasing consolidation, we were again obliged to lash to a large piece of it. This operation is calledgrappling; and it is performed by running the vessel alongside of the piece of ice to which it is intended to make her fast: two men then leap on the ice: the one runs, with a sort of pickaxe, to dig a hole in it, using the precaution to stand with his back to the ship; and theother man follows the first, with a serpent-like iron on his back, having a strong rope affixed to one end of it: this serpent (or ice-anchor, as it is termed) is hooked into the hole on the ice, and the rope is fastened on board the ship. Other ice-anchors and ropes are then hooked to different parts of the piece of ice; and the number of ropes is varied according to the state of the weather. In a gale of wind, we had generally five anchors a-head; and with a moderate breeze, not more than two. The whole manœuvre of grappling is generally accomplished in five minutes; and although the ship be lashed to windward of a clump of ice, yet the action of the wind on a vessel’s masts, yards, &c. turns the ice round, and she will consequently soon be under the lee of it, with water as smooth as a mill-pond.
We were employed this evening in fillingour casks from a pool of snow-water on the ice; and our people were highly diverted with running upon it, leaping, playing at foot-ball, and shooting at seals. At length, four of the seamen were so imprudent as to venture on a sort of peninsula which projected from the main body of the ice; when the isthmus instantly gave way, leaving them adrift on a small piece that was barely sufficient to sustain their weight. It was long after night-fall, and with the utmost exertion and difficulty, that we succeeded in getting them safe on board again, by the help of a boat.
August6th.—In the middle of the night, the prospect from the ship was one of the most awful and sublime that I ever remember having witnessed, during a life spent entirely upon the ocean: and I regret that no language of mine can give an adequate idea of the grandeur of the scene.As far as the eye could reach, a vast alabaster pavement overspread the surface of the sea, whose dark blue waters could only be seen at intervals, where parts of the pavement appeared to have been convulsively torn up, and heaped upon each other in ruined fragments. The snow-white surface of this immense plain formed a most striking contrast to the deep black clouds of a stormy night; through which, uninterrupted flashes of forky lightning succeeded each other with great rapidity, as if intending, by their fiery glare, to shew to us the horrors of our situation, and then to magnify them by leaving us in utter darkness. Add to this, the reiterated peals of thunder that burst forth, in a thousand roaring echoes, over the surrounding ice; also the heavy plashing of the rain, which poured down in torrents; the distant growling of affrighted bears, the screams of sea-birds, and the loud whistling of the wind;—the whole forming amidnight prospect which I would have gone any distance to see; but having once beheld, never wish to witness again.
In the morning, we were surprised by the appearance of twoEsquimaux, who had contrived to reach the ship, although we were at least seven leagues from the land, and the ice closely hemming us round on all sides: the Indians had effected their passage by dragging their canoes over the different fields of ice which obstructed their progress. At 4A.M.we got under sail; as there appeared a possibility of our pushing through, the ice having loosened a little; however, we looked in vain for an opening. The ship running fast, with a fair breeze, struck violently upon a large field, and the shock fairly lifted up her bows. We continued butting through until 8A.M.when we grappled to a large field of ice, as an impenetrable mass nowpresented itself on all sides of us: the wind shifted into theN. W.and blew a heavy gale, accompanied by drifts of snow and sleet. We lay in this position all night, closely hemmed in, with five ice-anchors a-head. An inspection being made by the carpenter, he found that the heavy shocks which the ship had received this day had started the ceiling about her bows, and also twelve or fourteen of the trunnels.
August7th.—During the whole of this day, we continued closely wedged in by the ice. It blew a hard gale from the west, attended by a heavy fall of snow and sleet. The loose ice was incessantly varying its position: at one time, we were so closely hemmed in as to be hardly able to discern any water; then, suddenly, the ice would again open to a considerable distance. This is easily accounted for; as the light pieces of ice drift much faster before the windthan the heavier masses, which are deeper in the water: it will naturally occur, therefore, that the three ships would alter their position, according to the size of the clump to which they were fastened. TheEddystonewas three miles to the east of us last night; and at sunset this evening, she was as far to the west; yet that ship was still grappled to the same piece of ice as before; and, from the coagulated mass which surrounded us, one would have been led to conclude that the relative distance from each other could not have been so easily altered: but it varies according to the depth and solidity of the ice to which the ships are affixed.
August8th.—In the forenoon, the snow ceased to fall, and we had a finer day. Latitude, by an observation at noon, 62°. 54′.N.The ice loosened considerably in the course of the day, but not sufficiently for us toget under sail. At night-fall, we lost sight of theEddystone, to the west.
August9th.—The day had just began to dawn, when an animal was observed swimming near the ship: we at first conjectured it to be a seal, and accordingly sent a quarter-master over the ice, to knock it on the head, if it attempted to get upon it; but the man was fain to make a rapid retreat, when he discovered the form of a prodigious bear emerging from the water. This enormous creature came close to the ship’s head; and had I been armed with a pistol only, it would have been easy to have dispatched him; but during the time we were all bustling for a musquet, the bear marched up the field of ice. Mr.Wells, a young midshipman, and myself, instantly pursued him, by different routes; but the grey of the twilight was favourable to him; and his hide being but a shade or twodeeper than the ice itself, he escaped unseen. We afterwards traced his footsteps to the edge of the ice, opposite the spot where he landed, and he must therefore have replunged into the sea from that place. I mention this circumstance to shew in what manner these animals contrive to procure subsistence: they swim, during the night, in the quiet manner now described; and drawing close to a piece of ice, they immediately smell if there be any seals upon the top of it; in which case they ascend gently on the opposite side, and suddenly springing upon the sleeping seal, they instantly tear it in pieces.—As this proved to be a fine day, we drew our seamen out upon the ice, and exercised them by firing at a target. Towards evening the ice began to loosen considerably.
August10th.—A fine day; but the ice still close. Wind remains atN. W.Duringthe last twenty-four hours, theEddystoneagain appeared in sight; and towards evening, she again neared us considerably. We believed this to be owing to her having got into a southerly current. Our latitude this day was 62°. 50′.N.; and at night-fall the thermometer stood at 28°.
August11th.—At 4A.M.ungrappled, and got under sail, with a fair wind, running a zig-zag course amongst the ice; the ship, at intervals, striking excessively hard. Towards evening, we again grappled to a piece of ice; and, upon inspection, we found several more trunnels started, and the ship much shaken, by her repeated blows. The Admiralty must certainly have been deceived by theHudson’s-BayCompany, respecting a Voyage toHudson’s Bay; or they certainly would never have sent a ship of war to perform it, without previously strengthening her for theoccasion. It is exceedingly dangerous for any ship to attempt a passage through the sea of ice inHudson’s Straits, unless her bows be doubled with oak-plank and heavy blocks of wood, bolted to each side of her cutwater; as the floating masses of ice may be considered so manyrocks of crystal.
This day, in a vacancy between the ice, we saw the first regular whale. On his second rising to blow, I discharged a load of small shot into his back; at which, however, he did not even seem to feel the least annoyance, though we saw him no more.
August12th.—At day-light, ungrappled, with a light wind at south; but, to our great mortification, we were again obliged to anchor, at noon, to a field of ice about half a mile long; and both the other ships made fast to the same piece, so that we couldwalk across the ice to visit each other. Our people were immediately set to work; and in three hours’ time, we had filled fifty-six casks with snow-water, from a large pond on the ice. We hadCharles’ Islandin sight, bearingW. N. W.about nine leagues distant. This small island is on the southern shore of the Straits, in the narrowest part; the channel there not being above twenty miles broad.Charles’ Islandlies about twenty-one leagues to the west ofLady Lake’s Inlet; and hence the ships leave the northern shore, and steer for the south end ofSalisbury Island, lying off Cape Diggs, at the western extremity ofHudson’s Straits.
The ice continuing very close all around us, we were compelled to remain in this situation, without ungrappling, for five days; in which nothing occurred worthy of notice.
Appearance of the Entrance of Prince of Wales’s Sound, bearing S.W.½W. about nine leagues.—taken August 17, 1814.
Appearance of the Entrance of Prince of Wales’s Sound, bearing S.W.½W. about nine leagues.—taken August 17, 1814.
The Rosamond grappled among close Ice.
The Rosamond grappled among close Ice.
August17th.—In the morning, we were opposite a deep inlet, calledPrince of Wales’s Sound, on the southern shore of the Straits, which has never been explored. All this coast, as well as the northern shore, is fringed with islands; the principal of which are calledKing George,Prince of Wales,Maiden’s Paps, andMannil’s Islands; and they doubtless afford shelter to many fine harbours.
August18th.—We did not grapple during the night, but hove to, for about two hours, whilst it continued dark; and at day-light we again bore up, and continued running through loose ice. Towards noon it fell nearly calm: we observed seven large seals, basking on a piece of ice; but as soon as we approached them in a boat, they rolled into the water, and disappeared. We were visited by twoEsquimauxin the afternoon: they had nothing remarkable aboutthem, except that their mustachios were rather more bushy than those we had seen before. In the evening it fell quite calm, and we grappled.
August19th.—During the night, the other ships had fallen considerably to the eastward; but the wind coming round to the south-west, we ungrappled, and waited for their coming up.Queen Anne’s Foreland, a high cape on the north shore, boreE. N. E.nine leagues; and although at so great distance, we were visited by three canoes ofEsquimaux, bringing their usual commodities for traffic. Our latitude this day was observed to be 63°. 38′.N.; longitude, 72°. 45′.W.We grappled again in the evening, and lay so until—
August21st.—At 2A.M.was presented one of those awful appearances which are so common in these hyperborean regions.The water, for some distance around the ship, had, for a time, been partially cleared of the ice; when, on a sudden, a noise was heard like very distant thunder, and the crackling of falling beams in some immense conflagration. The loose ice, which had appeared so distant before, now approached on all sides with an unusual rapidity; the pieces driving one over another in their course, and seeming to menace the destruction of our ship. In ten minutes we were completely hemmed in, on all sides; and a person might travel for miles over a space which had just before been an expanse of water. The ice must have been forced together by some extraordinary meeting of the currents, as there was but a slight breeze at the moment.
At noon, the wind became fair: we ungrappled, and steered through loose weighty ice until 8P.M.when a thick fog came on,and we again grappled for the night. About 10P.M.the deep darkness of the sky was suddenly changed to a bright twilight; and having continued so for about five minutes, it again relapsed into its former gloom. This singular appearance was occasioned by a streamer of theaurora borealisbursting through the thick fog which surrounded us.—Thermometer 29°.
During our stay inHudson’s Bay, and upon our voyage home from thence, our nights were constantly illuminated by the most vivid and brilliant coruscations of theaurora borealis. Its appearance was very different from that which I have seen in more southern latitudes; resembling continual jets of meteoric fire from the northern part of the horizon, which, after darting upwards in long streamers towards the zenith, suddenly collapsed, and receded; falling back, in zig-zag, serpentine lines, withdiminished splendour; and ultimately dying away, and vanishing from the sight; being succeeded by other jets, as beautiful as the first. TheCree IndiansinhabitingHudson’s Bay, and indeed theEuropeantraders there, maintain, that, in the serene stillness of their severe winters, a soft rushing noise constantly accompanies these coruscations, like that which is occasioned by the quick waving of afan, or of awinnow. The same remarkable circumstance is mentioned byHearne, who bears positive testimony to the fact. “I can positively affirm,” says he[21], “that in still nights I have frequently heard thenorthern lightsmake a rustling and crackling noise, like the waving of a large flag in a fresh gale of wind. This is not peculiar to the place of which I am now writing (the Athapusco Lake), as I have heard the same noise very plainatChurchill River: and, in all probability, it is only for want of attention that it has not been heard in every part of the northern hemisphere, where these lights have been known to shine with any considerable degree of lustre.”
August22d.—Early in the morning we again ungrappled. The reader of this Journal may easily conceive that, by this time, our impatience was at its height, as we had now been nearly a month incessantly occupied in endeavouring to push our ship through the never-ending drifts of ice inHudson’s Straits. I shall not, therefore, attempt to describe the joy of every person on board, when at 8A.M.we emerged into an open sea, and, the wind blowing tolerably fresh, at ten we passed byCharles’ Island. At noon, we had lost sight of both land and ice; and we now sailed forwards at a great rate, with both our ships incompany. Towards night-fall, we passed by a low level island, calledSalisbury Island, which lies at the entrance ofHudson’s Bay.
August23d.—In the morning, passed to the southward ofNottingham, a long rocky island, lying north ofCape Diggs. I know not ifSalisburyandNottingham Islandsare inhabited by theEsquimaux; but it is natural to suppose that this people visit them occasionally, during their periodical voyages. At 8A.M.we were offCape Walsingham, which is only remarkable for its being the north-west promontory ofLabrador, and having a string of small islands running from it towards the sea.
In the afternoon, theEddystoneparted company; as that ship was bound forMoose Factory, at the southernmost extremity of the bay; whilst we intended to proceed with thePrince of WalestoYork Factory, on thewestern side. And now, having brought the ship safely through these formidable Straits, and conducted her into the immense gulf ofHudson’s Bay, we will leave her for a while to pursue her voyage, and take an excursion round theBay, in order to give some short description of its factories, inhabitants, &c.
Amongst the many adventurous naval enterprises which reflect such lustre upon the last years of QueenElizabeth, and the beginning of the reign ofJamestheFirst, none, perhaps, can surpass, in intrepidity and perseverance, the voyages ofHenry Hudson; undertaken for the express purpose of effecting a north-west passage to thePacific Ocean. All that I have been able to collect respecting this brave but unfortunate man is, that he sailed in the year 1610, and discovered the Straits which now bear his name. He boldly pushed hisway through them; and finding that, after a length of six hundred miles, he emerged into an open sea, his heart beat high with exultation on having, as he doubtless imagined, succeeded in discovering that famous passage for which so many had sought in vain[22]. Sailing forward, therefore, four hundred miles towards the west, his disappointment was great, at finding himself suddenly stopped, in the midst of his career, by an unknown coast, extending (as has since been ascertained) from 51° to 63°N.latitude. However, the spirit ofHudsonwas not easily checked; and, astonishing as it may appear, he determined on remaining the whole winter on this dreary coast, so that he might be able to prosecute his voyage early in the ensuing spring. After suffering innumerable hardships, this daring adventurer sailed, early in the next year, towards the north, in search of the much-wished-foroutlet to thePacific; but his crew, not feeling the same enthusiasm which animated their leader, and greatly fearing lest his ardent thirst for discovery might expose them to the horrors of another winter, or, what was still worse, to the chance of perishing amidst the terrific mountains of ice with which they saw themselves to be surrounded, they accordingly proceeded from murmurs to open mutiny; and having turned the heroicHudsonadrift in a small boat, together with the few who adhered to his fortune, they basely left their leader to perish, and sailed away forEngland, where they arrived in safety. As for the unhappy Captain, I grieve to add, that he was never afterwards heard of: neither have we the poor consolation of knowing that his murderers met with the punishment due to their inhuman crime. There can be no doubt thatHudson’s Baywould have remained much longer unexplored, had it not so happened that thewinter preceding the year in which the discovery was made must have been remarkably mild; consequently,Hudsoncould not have met with many obstacles in passing through the Straits;—no seaman would have endeavoured to penetrate farther, if he had found them so completely blocked up with ice as to impede a ship’s progress, even with the advantage of a favourable wind attending her;—and that this was the case with us, will appear evident, from a perusal of the preceding part of this Journal.
TheHudson’s-BayCompany’s charter is said to confirm to that body the whole and sole right of trading with theIndians, within the limits ofHudson’s Straits; and they have no less than six factories established at the mouths of as many different rivers, which empty themselves into the Bay. The northernmost of these factories is calledChurchill: it stands on thewest side of the Bay, in latitude 58°. 50′.N.; longitude, 93°. 4′.W.The port is tolerably good, and ships of any size may anchor in it. At the entrance is a danger, calledCape Mary’s Rock; but it is easily to be avoided. On enteringChurchill River, ships pass between two points of land. One of them forms a sort of peninsula; and it has a large strong fort of stone upon it, the erection of which is said to have cost theHudson’s-BayCompany 30,000l.: it was formerly mounted with twenty 32-pound guns. The opposite Cape (Mary) has also a small battery, which formerly had six guns on it; yet, with the most culpable pusillanimity, did the travellerHearne(who acted as chief at that time) yield this strong position to theFrenchAdmiralLa Perouse, without so much as attempting a defence; who, in the year 1782, spiked the cannon, and destroyed the factory. Since that time, the fortifications ofChurchillhave been suffered to remainin their present dilapidated state; and, as a trifling security against any sudden invasion in future, the new factory was erected at a short distance higher up the river. It is matter of surprise, that the Company do not repair the large stone fort, which is made uncommonly strong, both by nature and by art. As it stands upon the extremity of a peninsula, a body of men passing the isthmus to attack it by land, would be completely exposed to the enfilading fire of the fort. It would be difficult also for an enemy to force the gates, because there is a small half-moon battery built on that side, expressly for their defence. Besides, there are dwelling-houses in the interior of the fort, sufficiently large for the reception of the whole factory.
The shore aboutChurchill Riveris high and rocky, producing only a very few insignificant trees and shrubs. Farther north, towards the country of theEsquimaux, thissmall vestige of vegetation dwindles away even to a simple bush or two, and these are only to be found at a considerable distance from each other.
Proceeding southward, towards a more genial country, we arrive atYork Factory, standing upon low swampy ground, completely covered with wood: its latitude is 57°. 2′.N.; longitude 92°. 40′.W.This place was also visited by theFrenchin 1782, who burnt the factory, and destroyed a small battery at the entrance ofHayes’ River. ButPerousewas grievously disappointed in the chief object of his voyage: and as it is so intimately connected with the subject on which I am writing, perhaps it will not be thought improper to describe the disappointment which theFrenchsuffered in the expedition; particularly as the fitting-out of the squadron must have cost theFrenchnation much money; and theirburning a few miserable mart-houses inHudson’s Baycould only injure individuals, and most probably was not felt at all by the public.
PerouseenteredHudson’s Bayin 1782, having under his command a line-of-battle ship and two large frigates. With this force he of course insured the capture of the annual ships, together with their rich cargo of furs, oil, &c.; and as the escape of the three ships does high honour to the skill and intrepidity of their commanders, it is well worthy of notice. The ship which was bound toChurchill, was commanded by CaptainChristopher; and theFrenchadmiral fell in with her at sea, just previous to her arrival at that place. A frigate was immediately dispatched in pursuit; but the night drawing on apace, CaptainChristopherresolved on a bold manœuvre, which he accordingly carried into execution withgreat success. Perceiving that theFrenchmanwas ignorant of the coast, and, by his following theEnglishship, that he was determined to govern his own vessel by her motions,—whereby he hoped to avoid all danger, and in the end secure his prize,—CaptainChristophersent his men aloft, and furled his sails, pretending to come to an anchor. The enemy immediately conjectured that it would be dangerous for him to proceed farther; therefore he directly brought his frigate to anchor in reality. CaptainChristopherrejoiced that his deception had so far succeeded to his wishes; and he made sail to sea with the greatest dispatch. Night coming on, and theFrenchmanbeing a long time in getting up his anchor, theEnglishmanwas soon out of sight, and escaped in safety to the northward. Fired with this disappointment,Perouseburnt the factory; and proceeded toYork, to secure the other ship, then lyingat that place, under the command of CaptainFowler. As there was not depth of water sufficient for his ships to enterYork, he anchored inNelson River, and made every disposition for an attack upon the ship and factory by the dawn of the next day; but, to his utter mortification, he found in the morning that the bird had taken wing;—for CaptainFowlerhad perceived three large ships at anchor inNelson Riverthe evening before, and, wisely conjecturing that they could have no good intentions towards him, put to sea during the night.Perousedispatched a fast-sailing frigate in search of him, which soon had sight of the runaway; but CaptainFowlerfinding theFrenchmanto have much superiority in point of speed, tacked about, and stood in for the land to the south ofYork, hoping thereby to entice theFrenchmaninto shallow water: the enemy, however, discovering his design, and fearing lest,in further pursuit, he might incur the risk of shipwreck, put off to sea; and CaptainFowlerpursued his voyage toEnglandin safety. The season was too far advanced to attempt any other exploit; and having therefore burnt the factory atYork,Perousereturned toEurope; highly chagrined, no doubt, at being thus foiled by a pair ofEnglishsailors, and at having failed of success in the principal aim of his expedition. As there are many shoals and dangerous rocks inJames’ Bay[23], he did not think fit to send a ship to destroy the southern settlements: and to the credit of this unfortunate navigator, I must state, that he publickly averred, if he had been aware of the factories being the property of individuals, he would assuredly have quitted them without molestation. It is remarkable that the Bay ship (as she is called) got safe toMooseFactory, and returned toEngland, without being at all aware how very narrowly she must have escaped falling into the hands of the enemy.
The next factory to the south ofYorkis calledSevern; but the shore at this place runs off much too shoal to allow a ship to approach the coast; therefore a schooner of about eighty tons is employed to take the furs toYork, and to bring back the necessary supplies. This is also the case withAlbany, the next factory towards the south; except that the latter place sends its furs, &c. toMoose, instead ofYork Factory.
At the very bottom or southernmost part ofHudson’s Bay, which is styledJames’s Bay, we arrive atMoose Factory; standing, like all the rest, on a river, bearing the same name. This place has a good anchorage, and the climate ismilder than in any of the other factories. It is annually visited by a ship fromEngland; as atMoosethe furs are collected together from the lesser mart-houses ofAlbany,East Main, andRichmond, for the purpose of being shipped off toEurope. We must now proceed round the bottom of the Bay;—and the next settlement is atEast Main River, nearly opposite to the western shore ofLabrador. The factory was established at this place for the purpose of trading with the natives of that vast peninsula; but their internal mart-houses verge generally towards the south, and the marten skins from this factory are said to be the finest in quality of any which are received fromHudson’s Bay. The inhabitants around this settlement are a roving race of people, styled, by theEuropeans,Mountain Indians, to distinguish them from theEsquimaux, who inhabit the sea-coast to the northward.