At some distance to the north ofEast Mainis a bight, calledRichmond Bay: here is a house belonging to the Company, but not a permanent establishment; as the people who arrive fromEast-Main Factoryin the spring, return again to that place in the fall of the year, to remain for the winter. The annual voyages toRichmondare undertaken for the purpose of procuring oil, as there is a good white-whale fishery in this Bay. The white whale[24]is not much larger than a first-rate porpoise; neither does it yield any whalebone fit for use: but the oil is nearly equal in value to that of the seal; and it was sold inEngland, in the year 1813, at fifty-six pounds a ton. The fish itself is perfectly white.
There is also a small whale fishery atChurchill Factory, but it is not very productive: perhaps it would be more advantageousfor the Company if they were to convert the remains of it into a new fishing establishment in some more efficient situation.
I have now reached that part of my Journal which I before alluded to, as being the most proper place to introduce the account of the disastrous termination of two attempts made by theHudson’s-Bay Companyto settle a permanent white-whale fishery atRichmond Bay.
When first theEuropeanswent to settle atRichmond, theEsquimaux, who reside about this part, kept them in a continual state of alarm all the winter, by lurking about the woods, in their sledges drawn by dogs. At length an English boy was missing from the settlement; and, after some difficulty, twoEsquimauxwere seized, and confined in separate apartments. In orderto recover the absent youth, the settlers made use of a stratagem. A musket was discharged in a remote apartment; and the settlers entering the room in which one of theEsquimauxwas confined, they informed him, by signs, that his comrade had been put to death, for decoying away the boy; and they gave him to understand, at the same time, that he must prepare to undergo the same fate, unless he would faithfully pledge himself to restore the absentee. TheEsquimauxnaturally promised every thing; and on being set at liberty, he made the best of his way into the woods, and, of course, was never afterwards heard of. They kept the other native for some time a prisoner: at length, he tried to effect his escape, by boldly seizing the sentinel’s firelock at night, but the piece accidentally going off, he was so terrified at the report, that they easily replaced him in confinement: yet either the loss of liberty, asupposition that his countryman had been murdered, or that he was himself reserved for some cruel death, deprived the poor wretch of reason. As he became exceedingly troublesome, the settlers held a conference as to the most eligible mode of getting rid of him; and it being deemedgood policyto deter the natives from similar offences, by making an example, they accordingly shot the poor maniac in cold blood, without having given themselves the trouble to ascertain whether he were really guilty or innocent.
Possessing only the plain leading facts of this affair[25], it is not easy to determine how far existing circumstances might have justified such an act of severity towards an ignorant being, who was also, perhaps,totally innocent. The reasons ought certainly to have been weighty which induced them to put the poor man to death; and I hope they will be able hereafter to reconcile the deed to God and to their own consciences.
After this time,Richmondwas abandoned as a permanent establishment; and they fell into the present method of visiting this place only during the fishing season, and returning to pass the winter atEast-Main Factory. CaptainTurner, however, represented to theHudson’s-Bay Company, that, in his opinion, want of perseverance was alone necessary to renderRichmonda safe and permanent settlement; and that, by having people on the spot, ready to begin fishing early in the spring of the year, much greater profit would necessarily accrue to the Company. Accordingly, he received directions to take thither seven people, whowere to remain atRichmondduring the whole winter. In the spring of the succeeding year, the northern orHunting Indians, who had visitedRichmondin pursuit of game, came, as usual, to barter their furs atEast-Main Factory; at the same time bringing the dreadful intelligence that the seven unfortunateEuropeanshad been murdered by theEsquimaux. The bodies of some of the settlers were afterwards found; although it be by no means certain that they were killed by theEsquimaux: such, however, is a fair presumption, as this people had before displayed a hostile disposition in the case of the boy; and the place was rifled of all the metal, of which theEsquimauxare known to be remarkably fond: add to this, that the northernIndianshad long been accustomed to trade yearly atEast Main, and no instance had ever been known of their behaving with treachery towards theEuropeans.
On the other hand, we must allow, that theHunting Indiansand theEsquimauxlive in a state of constant enmity, and, consequently, that their evil reports of each other should be cautiously received. It is also certain, that the northernIndiansare as partial to spirituous liquors as theEsquimauxare to metals. Three bloody shirts, belonging to the murdered settlers, were found in the tent of a northernIndian, which he alleged to have taken from the bodies of the slain, after theEsquimauxhad quitted them. Upon the whole, it remains uncertain whether the settlers atRichmondperished by the hands of theEsquimaux, or by those of the northernIndians: for my own part, I should be inclined to the former opinion. This catastrophe has effectually put a stop to any further attempts towards establishing a permanent settlement atRichmond Bay.
The following anecdote of Mr.Darby, the father of the celebrated Mrs.Mary Robinson, will shew that theEsquimauxare of a treacherous disposition, and extremely averse from any settlements being made on their coasts.
Mr.Darbyhad long fostered in his mind a scheme of establishing a whale fishery upon the coast ofLabrador, and of civilizing theEsquimaux Indians, in order to employ them in the extensive undertaking. Hazardous and wild as this plan appeared to his wife and to his friends, Mr.Darbypersevered in his resolution to prosecute it; and actually obtained the approbation and encouragement of some of the leading men at that time in power, who promoted his designs. To facilitate the execution of his plan, he deemed it necessary to reside at least two years inAmerica. His wife felt an invincible antipathy for the sea, and, of course, heard his determination with horror. The pleadings of affection, of reason, and of prudence, were alike ineffectual, and he sailed forAmerica.
The issue of this rash enterprise proved quite as unfortunate as it was predicted. Mr.Darbyhad embarked in it his whole fortune; and it failed. The noble patrons of his plan deceived him in their assurances of marine protection, and the island of promise became a scene of desolation. “The Indians rose in a body, burnt his settlement, murdered many of his people, and turned the product of their toil adrift on the merciless ocean.”—This great misfortune was followed by other commercial losses; and the family of this too enterprising man were, in consequence,reduced from a state of affluence and luxury to a very different condition[26].
Having now described the whole of the Factories established upon the sea-coast ofHudson’s Bay, it will be necessary to say something of the interior: this is so far from being unknown, that a man may with safety travel fromHudson’s BaytoQuebec, inCanada, by land. TheHudson’s-Bay Companyhave many small factories, or rather mart-houses, dispersed in all directions, for upwards of one thousand miles in the interior; to which theIndiansbring furs, feathers, quills, &c. in exchange for cloths, blankets, ammunition, fowling-pieces, trinkets, &c. The furs thus collected are sent down the rivers, in large boats, to the factories on the sea-coast, whence they are shipped off for Europe, as before described.There is great jealousy existing between theHudson’s-Baytraders and theCanadian Company, styled theNorth-West Adventurers, respecting the traffic inpeltrywith theIndians. As the mart-houses of the two parties meet inland, each uses all the means in its power to induce the natives to barter furs with themselves, in preference to their opponents: nay, to such a pitch have they carried their mutual animosity, that it is not long since a man in the Company’s employ actually killed aCanadiantrader, in a dispute relative to the purchase of some furs from theIndians; for which offence the culprit was tried atMontreal: and as it appeared that theCanadianhad given him sufficient provocation, the jury returned a verdict of manslaughter.
TheIndianshave not failed to observe this competition, so impolitic on both parts, and they profit by it accordingly.
Each factory and mart-house has itsChief, appointed by the Company; and there is also a northern and southern Superintendant, who is directed to visit all the places of note within his district, at least once in the year. The northern department comprisesChurchill,York, andSevernfactories, on the coast; and the southern embracesAlbany,Moose,East Main, andRichmond. To determine the interior limits of each, an imaginary line of demarcation is drawn east and west fromHudson’s Bayto theStony Mountains.
With respect to the inhabitants of this vast desert I shall say but little, as SirAlexander McKenziehas given a very full description of the various tribes by which it is peopled[27]. The most populous of all, perhaps, are theCree Indians: they appearto me to be the same race described by the before-mentioned author, under the name ofKnisteneaux. They occupy the country fromChurchillnearly as far south asMoose, and are found scattered almost as far to the west as theStony Mountains; but their numbers have been much diminished of late, owing to the small-pox. When this dreadful malady first reached this country, as theIndianswere not aware of any remedy by which they could counteract its violence, they were accustomed to leave the person afflicted in the midst of a wood, with a sufficient stock of food for two or three days’ subsistence; and when this scanty provision was expended, the unhappy victim must have necessarily perished with hunger. The banks of the rivers, for a time, exhibited a most loathsome spectacle, of bodies which had thus fallen a sacrifice to this disorder.
Besides theCreeorKnisteneaux Indians, there are innumerable tribes spread over the interior of this vast country; the principal of which are, theCopper,Dog-ribbed, andHare-foot Indians, towards the north; theSwees,Bongees,Slave, andStone Indians, towards the west; likewise a variety of tribes inhabiting the southern country aroundMoose, such as theMistassins, and others. The different tribes have frequently wars with each other; and they appear to agree unanimously in one respect only, that is to say, in universal and eternal hatred of theEsquimaux. However, it fortunately happens, from the contrariety of their modes of life, that their parties seldom come into contact with each other, and consequently the battles between them are very rare.
It remains now to speak of one of the most enterprising speculations, perhaps, everundertaken by a single person; namely, the attempt lately made by LordSelkirkto establish a colony upon the banks of theRed River, in a situation nearly equidistant fromYork FactoryandLake Superior, and in the latitude of 50°N.[28]
His Lordship holds this land by a grant of 12,000 square acres from theHudson’s-Bay Company. The first settlers leftSligoin the year 1811; and arriving inHudson’s Bay, they past the winter of that year atYork Factory. In the spring of 1812, they proceeded to their destination, under the command of a CaptainMcDonald, formerly belonging to a veteran corps inCanada: but this gentleman seems deficient in the essential art of conciliating those who are placed under his government: however,the situation of the colony is undoubtedly good, and the soil so fertile as to produce every thing almost spontaneously. The winters, indeed, are more severe than in places upon the same parallel of latitude in Europe, but much milder than atMoose, or any of the factories inHudson’s Bay; and yet even atMoosethey produce barley, if it be a fine year; andOrkneyoats every year, by sowing them a short distance from the sea-beach. Still, it is extremely doubtful if ever his Lordship’s descendants will derive much benefit from their father’s mighty speculations; unless, indeed, he could prevail upon his tenants to grant him a sort of tithe from their produce, in lieu of rent. With this corn he could supply theHudson’s-Baysettlements, which would save the Company a considerable expense, and they might repay his Lordship in the current coin of the realm.
ThePrince of Walestook out many women and settlers for the colony, as also a Mr.White, to act as surgeon. LordSelkirkhas agreed with this gentleman, to give him a yearly stipend of 100l.together with a grant of five hundred acres of land, and a labourer four days in the week for its cultivation.
It is difficult to imagine what were his Lordship’s intentions with respect to the colony atRed River. Allowing the luxuriance of the soil to answer his fullest expectations, by what possible means could the produce be conveyed to an adequate market, so as to repay the expenses of its carriage? The communication between the colony andYork Factoryis kept up by boats, through the greatLake Winnepeg; a little to the southward of which runs theAsnaboyneorRed River: yet the channels of the different rivers are so full of falls,rapids, portages and carrying-places, that the labour of conveying the boats is immense, and consequently quite unfit for the purposes of commerce, except it be in furs, and in such light merchandize.
It was for some time believed that a large opening to the northward ofRichmond, and near toCape Smith, was an inlet to some large inland sea; but, in the year 1786, Mr.Davison, an officer in one of the Company’s ships, was sent in a schooner to explore the same. The following extract contains the description of his progress, as expressed by himself. “On entering the bight, and perceiving no land a-head, we sat down to a bottle of wine, and drank success to the new discovery: however, we were soon chagrined by the appearance of some low islands stretching across the opening; and shortly afterwards, coming to an anchor under one of them, weclimbed to the top of it, and, to our great mortification, we perceived that the supposed sea was nothing more than a deep gulf, terminated at the bottom by thick clusters of islands, among which the sea ran winding in romantic mazes. Here we found theEsquimaux, who bartered away their dresses, &c. with great avidity, for any sort of metal.”—Notwithstanding this clear statement, there are experienced men who still suppose that an inland sea does exist; and for these reasons:—1st. There is a continual current setting to the east fromCape Henrietta Maria, towards the supposed opening; 2dly, The bay ship, in her voyage toMoose, has frequently observed a large glut of loose ice offCape Henrietta Maria, which, before her return, has entirely disappeared; and whither could it have drifted with a strong easterly current, unless some opening had admitted its escape from the bay?—Theseare the reasons for and against the existence of the supposed sea; but it is to be regretted, that the Company do not make a decisive attempt to ascertain the fact.
It will now be necessary to return to the proceedings of the ship.
August24th.—Course runS. W.byW.¼W.34 miles. In the morning, past to the northward ofMansfield, a very long, low, level island, lying about seventeen leagues to the westward ofCape Diggs. Its extent from north to south is said to be full sixty miles. As it abounds with marshes and ponds of fresh water, it may be considered as the grand nursery of those innumerable flocks of wild geese and ducks which afterwards line the shores ofHudson’s Bay: however, it is but seldom visited; and the ships generally avoid going too near to it, in consequence of someshoals that lay around the shore. Towards evening, we steered awayW. S. W.by compass.
August25th.—Course runS. S. W.¾W.101 miles. As there is generally a glut of ice floating about the centre ofHudson’s Bay, a ship, on leavingMansfield Island, and having a northerly wind, ought to steer forCape Churchill, until they reach within sixty leagues of the land, when they may alter the course, and steer forYorkdirect. It is necessary to make this angle, to avoid the body of ice in question. Another thing worthy of remark is, that if a ship steer in forCape Churchilluntil she have forty fathoms water, she may be certain of being in latitude of the Cape: and when she reaches within five or six leagues of the land, she will have eighteen fathoms water. But a navigator must be cautious to make allowance for the southerlycurrent, which sets continually along the western coast ofHudson’s Bay.
August26th.—Course runS. W.¼S.56 miles. The wind this day to theS. S. W.Our latitude at noon was 60°. 11′.N.ship still standing to the westward. It has been already noticed, that the officers of theHudson’s-Bayships have a motive in concealing from the public the knowledge which they actually possess relative to the navigation of the Northern Seas; and I pledged myself to explain that motive at a proper opportunity. I cannot undertake this unpleasant task at a more apposite time than the present, when it may serve to enliven the dulness of a few nautical remarks, which I think it necessary to insert into this part of my Journal.
In the first place, it is proper to state, that this illiberal concealment has itsorigin in the Company themselves, who (as I am told by their own officers) have issued the strictest and most peremptory commands to the people in their employment, “that they take especial care to conceal all papers, and every other document, which may tend to throw light upon the Company’s fur-trade.”—It is probable that the Company had no other motive in issuing these directions, than to keep themselves and their gains shrowded in a profound silence; as it appears that, above all other things, they wish their trading concerns not to become a topic of general conversation in the mother-country. Actuated by such principles, the officers of theHudson’s-Bayships conceive it to be their duty to conceal likewise all those remarks which their experience has taught them to make upon the navigation of theNorthern Seas: consequently, nothing can be more incorrect than the Chart supplied by theAdmiraltyfor the guidance of a man-of-war inHudson’s Straits: it absolutely bears no resemblance to the channel of which it is intended to be an exact delineation. During the time we continued inHudson’s Straits, theRosamondwas entirely piloted by a chart belonging to the chief mate of thePrince of Wales, and one of his own making; yet he was so jealous of his performance, that he was highly offended at our Master’s having endeavoured to take a copy of it; and from thenceforward kept his charts carefully locked up. When I questioned him, with some freedom, on this mysterious conduct, the selfish motive stood at once confessed: he feared lest, from others attaining the same knowledge as himself, they might be induced to enter into the service of the Company, and thereby possibly supplant him in his situation. And such I found to be the motives which induced the majority of these experiencedseamen to keep their truly valuable information concealed within their own bosoms. After the foregoing statement, it will be unnecessary to explain my reasons for inserting the very few nautical observations which I was enabled to collect.
August27th.—Course run,W. S. W.¼W.87 miles.
We continued running all this day across the bay, with a fine leading wind. Our latitude at noon was 59°. 40′.N.
August28th.—Course runW. S. W.74 miles.
At noon this day we sounded, and found that we were in eighty fathoms water. About sun-set we observed a large body of ice to windward; our latitude at this time 58°. 56′.N.; and longitude, by chronometer, 89°. 50′.W.It is about this spot that theHudson’s-Bayships generally calculate on seeing ice, allowing they meet with it at all.
August29th.—Course runS.byW.¼W.68 miles.
At 1A.M.we sounded in sixty-seven fathoms water. At four in the morning, the wind suddenly increased to a violent gale, which died away again at sunset. Our latitude at noon was 58°. 6′.N.; longitude, 90°W.Towards night-fall we sounded in forty-two fathoms, with a muddy bottom; and at the same time we caught an owl and a hawk, which we considered as sure signs of the vicinity of land.
August30th.—As we were now running in to make the land, I shall insert a Table of the Soundings, taken from the depth of water, which we ascertained last night at sun-set.
TableofSoundingsascertained on the 30th ofAugust,while standing in for the Land to the Southward ofYork Factory.
TableofSoundingsascertained on the 30th ofAugust,while standing in for the Land to the Southward ofYork Factory.
As we continued beating to windward, in various soundings, all the forenoon, I shall not mark them down, but proceed to 1P.M.whenCape TottenhamboreS.byE.five leagues distant.
TableofSoundingsascertained on the 30th ofAugust,while standing in for the Land to the Southward ofYork Factory;—continued from the preceding page.
TableofSoundingsascertained on the 30th ofAugust,while standing in for the Land to the Southward ofYork Factory;—continued from the preceding page.
TableofSoundingsascertained on the 31st ofAugust, while standing in for the Land to the Southward of York Factory.
TableofSoundingsascertained on the 31st ofAugust, while standing in for the Land to the Southward of York Factory.
At eight in the morning, it will be observed, we were in 8½ fathoms water, onYork Flats; and we therefore came to an anchor, with the beacon, at the mouth ofYork River, bearingS. W.by compass; the land being distant about ten miles, although it could barely be discerned in a blue line above the horizon. Thus, it may be observed, we had been sixty-three days on our voyage; and that it may be compared with other voyages toHudson’s Bay, I have annexed to this Journal a Schedule[29]of those performed by the Company’s ships since the year 1788; although I have not been able to obtain the dates of their departures from theOrkneys.
By the Sounding Table which I have inserted, it is evident that the depth of water abreast ofYork River, and offCape Tottenham, to the southward, is uncommonly regular; and it may therefore be fairly concluded, that, although the western coast ofthe Bay be very low land, yet there is no great danger in making it.
It is not expected that ships during their return toEuropewill ever meet with loose ice[30]: therefore, as soon as our ship anchored onYork Flats, weundidall the preparations which had been made for manœuvring whilst amongst the ice; such as, re-stowing our anchors, and putting below ice-ropes, ice-anchors, ice-axes, &c.; and we rejoiced in being rid of them.
The factory was about twenty miles distant from the anchorage of the ship, but not visible. At 10A.M.I went, therefore, from the ship, to report our arrival to the Governor. We were met at some distance from the ship by a large boat from the factory. It appeared that theyhad noticed the arrival of the ship; and mistaking her for thePrince of Wales, the boat was immediately despatched for letters, parcels, news, &c. &c. Finding their mistake[31], the boat returned with us to the factory, which we reached about nine at night. On landing, we were hailed by a sentinel; and a guard of honour was drawn out to receive us, with a pair ofHighlandbagpipes in front. The guard was composed of the traders, boatmen, and others, belonging to the factory: and through the gloom of the night I discerned the Governor and his officers, standing in a group to receive us. After the necessary business of introduction was over, we walked up to a large wooden building, surrounded by a double row of wooden palisades; and here we were regaled with venison steaks and buffalo tongue.
Sept.1st.—At 2A.M.the tide answering for our return, we quitted the factory, and reached the vessel again about 8A.M.
Whilst we were atYork Fort, we received information that the factory atChurchillhad been burnt to the ground, in the month ofNovember, 1813. The miseries which the people of that place suffered during the remainder of the winter were very great. As there were seventy-three chests of gunpowder in the warehouse at the time the conflagration took place, their whole attention was occupied in removing away the powder to prevent an explosion; and by the most strenuous exertions they succeeded in this undertaking; but the time lost prevented their being able to save a mouthful of provisions, or a single utensil, from the flames. An old out-house that had escaped destruction, and afew tents which they erected of rein-deer skins, served them as habitations during the remainder of the winter; and, as if Providence had taken especial care to provide for their necessities, partridges abounded to a greater degree than had been known for many years before. Of course, these birds proved a seasonable supply to the sufferers; particularly as the partridges are so very tame, that they suffer themselves to be driven into nets, by which means large quantities are taken at one time.
A family inEnglandwould be justly esteemed objects of great pity, if they were burnt out of their home in the midst of winter, although many friendly habitations might be humanely opened for their reception. What then, comparatively speaking, must have been the situation of theChurchillpeople—driven out by the flamesin the middle of aNovembernight, on the shores of a frozen ocean, with the thermometer 78° below the freezing point, without any shelter save that of a decayed out-house, no bedding, no cooking utensils, no immediate nourishment, and no final prospect of relief, except from a reliance on the adventitious aid of their fowling-pieces! Such a night must surely be allowed to have had its share of horrors. But heroic strength of mind is the characteristic of theEuropeantraders toHudson’s Bay; and this alone enabled the people ofChurchillto escape all the evils attendant on such a calamity.
Towards the evening of this day, thePrince of Walescame to an anchor near us.
Sept.2d.—In the morning we weighed anchor, and ran into the mouth of the river, otherwise calledFive-fathom Hole.It is a very contracted anchorage, and at high water there is not more than three fathoms’ water on the bar. In running in fromYork Flats, the large beacon must be kept bearingS. W.byW.by compass. To moor the ship, one anchor must be laid up the stream, and another down it; and the width of swinging room at low water does not much exceed four times a ship’s length; having a dry muddy flat on theN. W.and a shoal to theS. E.The water is perfectly fresh, and fit for use, at the last quarter ebb, and first quarter of the flood-tide.
As we lay at this anchorage until the 28th instant, I shall not notice each day separately, but proceed to make such remarks as occurred during our stay; contenting myself with briefly stating, that thePrince of Waleswas employed during the time in stowing away her cargo, &c.
The whole of the north-west part of the continent ofAmericais so completely intersected with rivers and lakes, thatMackenziewent the greater part of his journeys by water.York Factoryis situated on the bank of a river, which has sometimes been calledYork River; although it appears that the majority agree in giving it the name ofHayes’ River: but it undergoes many appellations in its course from theEchemamisto the sea. I shall therefore endeavour to describe the river, by tracing a journey fromYork FactorytoLake Winnepeg, a distance of about five hundred miles: but the fur-traders ofHudson’s-Bayare so well accustomed to the route, that two men in a slight bark canoe will undertake it without the slightest hesitation.
On leavingYork Factory, the boats proceed against the stream, without meeting any obstruction, upHayes’ River,SteelRiver, and forty miles ofHill River; when they arrive at the first carrying-place, calledRock Portage. The obstructions from henceforward begin to augment; and at every portage, the boat, with her whole cargo, must be carried over land; which is rendered sometimes extremely difficult, by the ground being either rough or swampy.
After passingRock Portage, the stream is contracted; and there are a number of portages intervening, before the boats can arrive at a broad part of the stream, calledSwampy Lake, which contains a number of small islands; and it may be considered as a short half-way toLake Winnepeg. LeavingSwampy Lake, the stream is again contracted into a narrow slip, calledJack River, in which are four portages. On crossing these, they enter a broader part, intersected by innumerable small islands. This space is styled theKnee Lake, and is sixty milesin length. One of the small islands in the centre ofKnee Lakecontains so great a quantity of iron ore, as to cause the compass to spin round with uncommon velocity. At the upper end of the lake the stream gradually lessens into another slip, calledTrout River, and here are four more portages: then gently extending its boundaries, the river opens on a wide expanse, calledHoley Lake, from some deep holes in the bottom of it, and the great inequality of the soundings throughout. At the eastern extremity of this lake standsOxford House, the first trading port to be met with after leaving the factory. Owing to the richness of the soil, and the geniality of the climate, this place produces a number of excellent vegetables[32].
Proceeding onwards, the boats leave themain body ofHoley Laketo the left hand: the stream then suddenly narrows; and after passing four more carrying-places, the last of which is calledHill’s Portage, there is a clear space, until a sudden serpentine bend in the river forms theWhite-fall. The current now begins to be very weak; and a little farther on, they enter a narrow part with still water. This spot is the highest part of the land betweenLake WinnepegandHudson’s Bay; andHayes’ Rivermay, perhaps, be said to take its rise about seven miles to the southward of it, in a small lake calledWinnepegosis. The boats now meet with a singular rock, which, from some curiousIndianpaintings once found there, has since been called thePainted Stone. Over this rock the boat must be dragged, and again launched on the opposite side, into a long, narrow, boggy slip of water, called theEchemamis. After emerging from this strait, the current of the river begins tooperate in favour of the boats; and this proves that theEchemamisis a small river, taking its rise in the morasses about thePainted Stone, and having no connection with the river which leads from thePainted Stonetowards the sea. TheEchemamisis, however, lost at a short distance from its source; as after the boats passHairy Lake, the stream falls into theSea River; and there is a portage at their junction, called theSea Rivercarrying-place. TheSea Riveris a branch of the greatNelson River, separated from the main stream at thePlay-green Lake, and rejoining it by a creek that opens nearHairy Lake.
The boats go against the current up theSea River; and passing the littleCross LakeandPike River, they reachWinnepeg, through thePlay-green Lake. This last is a wide body of water, covered with islands;and may properly be said to be merely a part ofNelson River, which holds its course from theStony MountainstoHudson’s Bay. The rough course fromYork Factoryto LakeWinnepegis about south-west; but theNelson Rivermakes a great angle betweenWinnepegand the sea; as it first runs offN. N. E.; and then takes its course, dueE. N. E.toHudson’s Bay, where it empties itself by the side ofHayes’ River[33].
The labour of getting the boats up these rivers is amazingly great: their crews encamp on the banks every night; and they generally land also to cook their meals, except when they are compelled to subsist onpemmican, a sort of dried, husky compound, composed of pounded venison anddeer’s fat mixed together. This species of food is extremely nutritious: it requires no cooking, and is sometimes rendered more palatable by the addition of berries.
There are many kinds of wood growing on the banks of the rivers, and indeed the whole of the interior near the sea is covered with it: but in the country about LakeWinnepegthere are very few trees, and the inhabitants are therefore compelled to use the dung of the buffalo for fuel. Both buffaloes and horses abound in the open country. The woods on the coast are principally composed of dwarf poplars, larches, and all the varieties of the pine species.
Having thus described the communication by water between LakeWinnepegandYork Factory, I shall conclude with a statement of the respective distances.
It must be allowed, that the above is a mere rough statement of an old trader, who had been accustomed to traversing the route for nearly twenty years.
Nelson Riveris a much more noble stream thanHayes’ River, with respect to its navigation, extending about twenty miles from the sea; but from thenceforward itbecomes so full of obstructions, from portages, falls, and rapids, that the Company have been compelled to establish their factory upon, and give a decided preference to,Hayes’ River, although they have an establishment or two for trade on the former. TheNelson Rivertakes its rise, according toMcKenzie, in theStony Mountains; and empties itself intoHudson’s Bay, at the same place asHayes’ River. It is only divided from the latter, at the mouth, by a very low cape, calledPoint of Marsh, upon which an exceeding high wooden beacon has been erected by the Company, to enable their ships to distinguish the mouth of the river. The continual washing of the waters on either side of thePoint of Marshhas enabled the sea to encroach a great deal on the land, and thereby created many dangerous shoals in the mouths of the rivers: the navigation has, by these means, been rendered extremely contracted and difficult.The breaking up of the rivers in the spring tends also, in a great measure, to increase these evils: for, in the first place, the ice being driven towards the sea with an amazing velocity, it carries every thing forcibly away, and causes a general ruin upon the banks, by cutting down large bodies of earth, and hurling trees and rocks from their places. In the second place, it frequently happens that immense stones lying at the bottom of the rivers become fixed into the ice during the winter, and the freshes, in the spring, consequently bear them away towards the sea; but the ice not being able to sustain their ponderous weight for any length of time, it naturally occurs, that those masses become disengaged, and are deposited at the mouths of the rivers, where they not only incommode the passages, but likewise injure the ships’ cables by their friction.