Drawn by J. G. Wilkinson Esqre. from a Sketch taken by the late John Davidson.Drawn on Stone & Printed by P. Gauci, 9, North Crest. Bedford Sqre.Style of Buildings of Wadnoon.(Large-size)
Drawn by J. G. Wilkinson Esqre. from a Sketch taken by the late John Davidson.Drawn on Stone & Printed by P. Gauci, 9, North Crest. Bedford Sqre.Style of Buildings of Wadnoon.(Large-size)
Style of Buildings of Wadnoon.
(Large-size)
Wednesday, April 27.—Therm. 70°. Made Abú write, for he cannot talk, to this Majíbí, to ask if he meant to say that his party did not wish me to go on: if so, that I would return, as I cared little upon the subject, and had a ship waiting for me. He was taken somewhat aback at this, and admitted that the observations came from himself, and not from the Sheïkh. I shall write to Mr. Willshire, and give him my candid opinion of this scoundrel, whose object is to induce me to give him a bribe for his assistance. I will see him d———d first. Went out to see my patients, when I was stopped by a marabout, who humbugged me out of a dollar. ’Tis well to keep on good terms with these impostors, who possess considerable influence. This journey will ruin me, and I fear I shall break down. No person can be more kind than the Sheïkh has been; and but for this blackguard I should do very well. I must, however, put up with him, and patiently wait to see how matters will turn out. The people here are a fine race; they wear their hair generally curled, and are not at all dark; they are tall in figure, ride upon spare horses without a bit, and with only a mere rope put round the nose and neck of the animal; they have fine eyes and beautiful teeth. The majority of those in better circumstances have one or more of the desert-horses, which are fed entirely on camel’s milk, and this only every fourth or fifth day. It is very strange that they know nothing of the Jebel Khal, the black mountain; Sók Assa isdistant only one day’s journey; Tatta four; Akka five; Tódeny twenty; from this to Arowán is another twenty; and thence to Tumbuktú seven. There is another route to Tumbuktú. From hence to Woden or Weddán, the name better known, twenty days; then to Tishít ten; and to Tumbuktú ten more. Caravans frequently go to Jennah from Tishít; from thence to Gwalátah, they say often; thence to Drah in ten days; to Táfilelt in fifteen, &c. Some of my patients are improving; others giving up medicines altogether. There is a Muselmán-fast to-day, which is slept away. The weather has become very cold. The thermometer has fallen 12°.
Thursday, April 28.—Therm. 68°. Some rain has fallen in the night. I was called up to give the Sheïkh his medicines. It is perfectly useless doing any thing for people who take five meals a-day, and pass the rest of their time in sleep; with no exercise and no employment, but sitting outside their doors or inside their walls, to see on whom they can pounce. It is really sad to look upon the two sides of the picture, which this place presents; the one, the possessors of the soil, the daring, hardy, and commanding inhabitants reduced to the level of the brute by his indulgence in food and sleep, with the past forgotten, the future uncertain: the other subject to slavery in its most abject form. A large káfilah is expected from Mogadór to-day or to-morrow, and one from Súdán in a few days. These will enliven us; but I hardly dare venture out. The Christian is still upon me. The population may amount to two or three hundred families, together with twelve Jewish, who are the working classes, and manufacture good guns and daggers, ornaments in silver, brass, &c. They are also the tailors and shoemakers, and do the iron-work. The Muselmáns are the intermediate merchants, or cultivators or breeders of cattle, which are very fine. There are some Talebs here, and one has written for me a few prayers most beautifully. Four káfilahs leave this place annually, consisting each of slaves varying from three hundred to one thousand. At that time a large encampment is formed outside of the town, where they collect and prepare for the journey. I have been used most rascallyby Majíbí: I wish I dared kick him. Went out again to look for water: had a conversation to-day about Christians, whom these people conceive to have no idea of any religion. I tried, but in vain, to explain the matter to them. I have evidently some foes here, because I will not submit to be plucked unmercifully. I should be left without a penny or a rag, were I to give all, or even half of what they endeavour to extort from me. I am fairly tired out. The weather feels very cold. The thermometer is down to 60°. We have had some rain to-day. I am anxious to get out; but fear I am in for at least another month, and must bear it.
Friday, April 29.—Therm. 58°. The wind is still east, and all are suffering from the cold: I feel the effect of it, being but thinly clad. It tells pretty sharply to a man with bare arms, legs, and feet. It is a sad state of existence, where no one cares for his fellow, and throws off a person the moment he ceases to be useful. As soon as they have got what they want, they care not what becomes of you. I hope this is not the case with the Sheïkh, who is certainly a very superior person; but I find I shall have great difficulty in managing my affairs here. Abú is not competent for this. To-day we are to have a private conference with the Sheïkh, as soon as all the persons are gone to the mosque, which is here a mere circle of large stones. The kiblah is not quite due east, but rather to the south of it. I wish the Sheïkh was quite well: but it is impossible to do him, or any of these people here any good, with their five or six meals a-day, and without exercise of body or mind, except a constant craving after sensual enjoyments and for gold, gold, which is always uppermost in their thoughts. The subject of Beïrúk’s[94]communication was to have an English consul resident at his port,[95]and to open a trade direct with England; that for this purpose he would send one of his sons to London to manage his affairs; that by these means the route to Súdán would be opened at once; the whole distance beperformed in forty or forty-four days, and a large trade be carried on; that a courier would perform the journey to Súdán in fifteen or twenty days, according to the heat—more wonderful for the man than the beast; that England would receive in exchange gum, almonds, wool, hides, ostrich feathers, ivory, and all the produce of Súdán, which would find its way to Wád Nún rather than by a lengthened journey to Marocco. I wrote to Lord Glenelg on the subject.
Saturday, April 30.—Therm. 60°. Wind still east. The Sheïkh now thinks it will be impossible for me to cross the desert for the next four months, owing to the great heat. The last caravan-kafilah left only a fortnight before I arrived, and none go during the summer. I told him that I ought to be sent on to overtake it. This he promised to do, if I wished it; but he warned me of the danger of all the party perishing from the want of water, as all the springs are then dried up, and the camels cannot carry heavy loads during the hot months. I have written to Mr. Willshire, and a courier has been dispatched to Tumbuktú to say that a Christian is coming, accompanied by the cousin of the King, Hámed Libbú. Hájí Majíbí now finds that I am toocaninefor him to be in the same apartment, and thank Heaven he has removed. I have the utmost contempt for this beast. The population of this place rather exceeds six hundred, with great capabilities for increase. The Sheïkh has about four hundred horse that he could bring into the field. Went to the Millah, where I saw a very beautiful woman anxious to get away. Her husband is one of the principal workmen here. Provisions are cheaper than in any other place. A good bullock may be purchased for 20s.to 30s.; heifers, 15s.; a sheep, 2s.to 4s.; fowls vary: I paid ½d.each; bread, ¼d.per lb.; wheat, 5 to 6 pesetas; barley, 3 to 4 do. A camel varies in price from 20 to 30 dollars; a slave from 20 to 100. All accounts are kept in mitcalls.
Sunday, May 1.—Therm. 50°. The people are half killed with the cold. Read the prayers. Received newspapers from England through Mr. Willshire, and walked round the garden. The cold was so intense this evening, that I was compelled to put on two cloaks. The Sheïkhis still harping upon his favourite project, and complaining that all his profits go into the hands of the Sultán of Marocco by the trade through Mogadór.
Monday, May 2.—Therm. 60°. Symptoms of the weather becoming warmer. This will be a great comfort to me: bare feet and arms feel the cold too severely. Fasted all yesterday; hope to get something to eat to-day, as there is a savoury smell of kabábs. It is wonderful to witness the fear the children have of a Christian. The itch has broken out with violence amongst the people: I suppose I shall have my turn. There is one comfort in the cold; it drives away all the vermin, to which the people here are quite indifferent, as their skin is so thick, that neither lice or fleas can penetrate it. The káfilah from Súdán is expected in twenty days. The cold felt here is not unusual at this time of the year, as our winter is their hottest season. Am extremely anxious to hear from Mogadór.
Wednesday, May 4.—Therm. 60°. Weather warmer; but I still feel the cold: went only to the gardens. A part of the káfilah is just arrived; it made its journey in haste: it brings accounts of a war between the Fellátahs and Bambári. This will make it rather awkward for me, should hostilities continue, although I do not pass in the immediate vicinity of the people of Bambári.
Thursday, May 5.—Therm. 60°. Suffering from a severe cold to-day, did not go out.
Friday, May 6.—Therm. 68°. It got very warm towards noon. I have now been a fortnight here, and with every prospect of being detained a month longer. I am bored to death by the people, of whom the more I see the worse I like them. Had a visit from Sheïkh ’Ali, and a part of his tribe: I was obliged to be civil, lest I should have to return to Suweïrah; as in that case he would protect me. Health but indifferent, as I can get no peace or quiet from the importunities of the people here. Three persons have just come sixty miles to ask me to tell them where the silver is to be found, that they know is in great plenty about Tamenart. The old mines are not worked; but the nokrah is in the field (ground). I told them it was impossible to give ananswer without visiting the spot, or seeing some of the stones from it. If I am to stop to make them all rich, Heaven knows when I shall come back. As I have the character of a magician, every dirty devil in and about the place claims a prescriptive right to theentré, and the beasts come loaded with vermin. Took a short walk, and retired to rest.
Saturday, May 7.—Therm. 70°. Weather beautiful. Feeling myself much better, I strolled to the water, which is not a river, but a kind of lake. Met with rhododendrons in full flower, and saw a great variety of odoriferous shrubs, with an abundance of tortoises. I was followed by one of the Sherí beggars for money. A nephew of the Sultán has got off under[96].........[97]order. The river Assaka is to the south of the mountains that enclose Wád Nún; but I can gain no information about it. Sick at heart with my evening parties, which occurquotidie(daily). Received letters from Mr. Willshire. It is lucky that we are here: we have done the big wigs.
Sunday, May 8.—Therm. 70°. Weather is becoming quite warm; was up early, and read the prayers: sent Abú to the Sók, and tried to purchase a dagger, but it was too dear. The Sheïkh’s son bought one at night, but it was not equal to the one I had seen. Found a document relating to the Auléd Deleim, one of the Arab tribes: took a walk with Sheïkh Ali, whose people returned to a sheep-killing, &c. I have no chance of sleeping, as they are to leave at day-break.
Monday, May 9.—Therm. 72°. Weather beautiful. The camels are collecting for the Sók: the best will not fetch more than thirty mitcals, and good ones are to be bought for twenty. This animal changes its name every year for the first nine years; but after that time, it is the jemál. In the first year, and while suckling, it is el howar; in the second, el ben áshar; in the third, el bellibún; in the fourth, el hak; in the fifth, el zoa; in the sixth, el thání; in the seventh, el erba’; in the eighth, el siasí; and in the ninth, el jemál: the female is callednákah: it has been known to work for thirty years; after which they are turned out. The Heïri horse does not cost more than from sixty to one hundred dollars. All kinds of cattle and food are cheap to a fault. With regard to their buildings, the rooms are long and narrow, but without windows, as the doors answer for that purpose; and there they keep their guns, swords, saddles, powder-horns, &c. Driven out of the room by vermin. At four,A.M., I commenced washing my clothes.[98]The Jewish gentleman was offended, that I did not pay him a visit on the Sabbath: after this, I helped to cut up the sheep, and set about preparing my own food; but as these people think I dislike what they cook for me, I ate a little by way of training, and I shall now have a daily dose of it. Abú gets more helpless daily. I fear he has become religiously crazy. Walked to the water, and then had a large party in the evening, which kept me up till midnight.
Tuesday, May 10.—Therm. 76°. The heat is returning again; very sultry at noon. Saw the Sheïkh’s three wives, and his numerous family of sons and daughters; they were more pleased with me than I with them; there were two pretty girls amongst them, but very dirty: the Sheïkh’s forty slaves, and all the family, were out to see one of the ladies off. Walked round the whole place, which is larger than I thought: ascended a hill that commands all the approaches to the town; it formerly had a fort upon it, and should have it now. On the east of the town there is a large enclosure, surrounded with walls, where the great Sók is held. There are twenty large public ovens for cooking meat and bread; ten smaller ones for fritters, made of honey and butter; and some for sphynge and kuskusú, and many matmórs for corn; and a good supply of water.
All are in expectation of this great day, or rather of these three days. Sidi Hasan, and all the people from the neighbourhood, will be here. Beyond the enclosure is a very neat tomb of the Sheïkh’s predecessor, from which there is a good view of the country. On the plain are many scattered villages, and four extraordinary hills, distant from each otherabout one thousand yards. By the last is meant the mountains which shut in a part of Wád Nún: in the back ground is a fine range of hills, about one thousand feet high. I am now in my third week here, with every chance of detention for three or four weeks longer. I got rid of my evening party by pretending to be ill.
Wednesday, May 11.—Therm. 76°. Weather most favourable for acclimatizing me for the Sahrá. Went to the house of ’Omar to see Banna; had two ladies to examine. There was too great fastidiousness on the part of some, and too little on the part of others: from this I went to the Millah. My pretty patient is better to-day, but is very stupid, as they all are: the Jewesses bear away the palm of beauty; and dirty as they proverbially are, they are cleanliness itself, as compared with the Arab ladies, whose filth, dirt, and misery, are dreadful. A consul lives here, which is quite absurd. Received many blessings. Had some disturbance about my horse: the people are beginning to find fault, and my food is falling off; nor do they give the same hearty welcome as formerly: the fact is, one must be always giving to get on with these people. I took to my haik, and like it much better than the sulham. I am nearly devoured by flies by day, and fleas by night. Am pleased more and more with Hájí El Khirefí, who is to take us, I hear, to Súdán, where he has been twenty times. My evening party was much better behaved than usual.
Thursday, May 12.—Therm. 75°. Went to breakfast with Solomon the Jew, whose wife is making up my shirts, and mother washing my clothes; but such is the fashion of the place. Went some distance up the bed of the river, which is now quite dry. Nothing is talked of but Sidi El Rásí and the Moutardi, or the forthcoming great Sók. Food is very bad, and the meat stinking. Saw a beautiful gun that was made here; the Sheïkh promises to get me one[99]before I go. Some rain fell before noon, and it became quite cold, as evening came on. To-day I had many more lady-patients, as Abú calls them; their complaints are curious. One is to be fattened up to thrice her present size.Several wish to know how they are to become mothers: many want me to give them the powder which Christians have to make people love them. Eyes to be cured out of number; and as they are far too many for me to attend to all, I have selected two, who are very ill, and whom I think I can cure, and I have put the rest away as incurable. Rain has fallen all round, but has not yet reached here. The husband of the pretty Jewess has sent to say, that he shall feel hurt, if I do not breakfast with him, as I had breakfasted with Solomon. I promised to go to-morrow.
Friday, May 13.—Therm. 78°. Went to breakfast with the pretty Jewess; her husband is a man of some information. We had too much to eat: afterwards walked about two miles up the bed of the river, which, when full, must contain a large body of water. Visited the Arab tents; on returning, saw some very fine women, but they were beastly dirty. Morality is here at a very low ebb; the husband prostitutes his wife, and the father his child; and this is considered no disgrace, if it is done for a valuable consideration, and not for love. Witnessed a very disgusting scene with the Sheïkh; he has three wives all living, but he still likes his slaves: his fourth wife died lately; she was an Arab of great beauty, for whom he gave two hundred camels, twelve slaves, and a great quantity of produce. His eldest son is a chip of the old block, and is running after every woman he takes a fancy to, the pretty Jewess excepted, whose person is considered sacred. Three Moors have destroyed themselves for her in a fit of love, and all come to see her. As she is a patient, I can visit her daily. I am becoming very impatient, and the people tell me I have a quick temper: but the fact is, time is no object to the people here; their care is merely how to waste it; as soon as one meal is finished, they want to sleep till the time for the next arrives. It is quite dreadful to see the sad state to which human nature is degraded in this place. The small-pox has broken out with great violence, and I have to run the gauntlet without the least chance of escaping from it. A slave was brought in, charged with attempting torun away; it appears to have been a little love affair: he was punished by having a fifty-six pound-weight fastened to his leg.
Saturday, May 14.—Therm. 74°. The poor creature is still chained, and has not a drop of water, although it is now mid-day. The Sheïkh should have clean hands before he thus punished others. Went out again to the bed of the river, and made the round of the Khiesin: met many beautiful women, if they were only clean. Their husbands are all gone to Súdán; had to prescribe for some fifty of them; they wanted me to make their faces of the same colour as my legs and arms. My watch, rings, &c. were a great object of curiosity with them: had a little difficulty in making some of them shew their tongues, which they consider a mark of impudence; they all like to be closely examined; their figures are perfectly beautiful; most of them were at work. I had prayers and thanks in abundance. One very merry lass had on her neck a curious collection: it embraced a little bag of spices and scents; the nail of a horse-shoe; a leather charm, called horse; a broken shell; a large glass bead; another horse; a shell again (habha); a small habha, consisting of a circular piece of agate, and a large horse at the centre, from which was suspended the horn of a young ram; and the same things were repeated, forming the circle. Some of the women work beautiful háïks, blankets, and carpets. In the large tents are two beds raised on feet, with a cradle, the canopy for the bride. There are two tents in each inclosure of thorns or prickly pears. Visited the Millah, and then home.
Sunday, May 15.—Therm. 76°. Had a long conversation with Zeïn, who was at Tumbuktú when Major Laing was killed.[100]It appears that Hámed Libbú gave all the protection he could; but that the Sheïkh, to whose care the Major was entrusted, expected to gain a large plunder by his destruction. Zeïn had seen also Caillié[101]several times during his stay there. Things have now changed. The government is nowFulání. Hámed Libbú killed four thousand of the Tawáriks in one day, and has quite reduced that tribe to subjection. These marauders are, however, still in force between Tumbuktú and Sakatú. A large portion of the former place, inhabited by the Tawáriks, has been burnt down. Zeïn tells me there is no chance of my getting to Sakatú. The Wád and the river are both beset by the Tawáriks. The distance by land is forty days to Jennah, which is distant from Tumbuktú eight days; from thence to Sansanding and Ségó four or five days; and from thence twenty days to the source of the river. To Kóng he did not know how long the journey was; but it is very distressing, and is all performed on foot. Read the prayers. Day very hot towards noon. There is a little quiet to-day, as all the people are out at the Sók; which has been but badly attended, as there is no arrival from Suweïrah, and the káfilah will not be here for some days. Walked out and looked at Wesnúnah, which is about six miles south, and to As-sérir about four east. The Sheïkh has about forty villages, containing a population, they say, of twenty-five thousand. My spirits are much depressed to-day. My position is truly miserable: I am bored to death, and obliged to submit, through the fear of making enemies amongst savages. I have scarcely a book to while away the time, and no means of improving myself, or getting information from others. I have at last learnt the name of the river; it is the Bontkonman, or, as some call it, Buatkuman: it is called also Mulasar. The large river that is laid down in the maps, as the Akassa, runs nearly due east and west, flowing through the south of Wád Nún to the sea. The river here comes from Eít-Bamáran, and runs towards the mountains east, and is lost in the sand. At present there are only a few patches of water, the stream having failed to a mere dropping spring, which the Arab tribes consume. I have been much amused with the Arab ladies; their frankness is quite extraordinary. I shall give away about twenty dollars to them, as soon as I arrive at Sídí el Rasí: it will be money well laid out. Had a very pleasant hour with the Sheïkh, giving him a description of the battle of Waterloo: he said the joy here was universal, when they heardthat the French had been beaten; for they are detested in these parts. He said that the price of ostrich feathers had declined terribly; the very same quantity which could once fetch twenty and thirty mithkáls, could now be bought for three or four.
Monday, May 16.—Therm. 72°. The day beautiful; all have been busily occupied for some days past in carrying the corn; the crops are very heavy; they are now treading it out; camels, horses, mules, donkeys, and boys, are all employed indiscriminately. I am feeling severely the effect of hunger: I have now been two days without food, except some bad bread and eggs. If these people think I am going to beg for every thing, they will find themselves mistaken. I shall wait two hours longer, and then send Abú to see if any thing is to be bought. I had ordered some food yesterday, but I could not get it cooked. To-day I have received a present of meat, and the Sheïkh has asked me to drink tea with the party. I am afraid, however, of being too much with these people. Three-fourths of the whole population have been inoculated in the left ankle for the small-pox: how they will manage at the large Sók, I know not. I have been here nearly a month, and there has not been a single death; this, in so large a population, speaks much in favour of the healthiness of the spot. I am anxious for the Sók to take place; for I shall then know how long I am to stay here.
Tuesday, May 17.—Therm. 72°. Weather close, and air heavy, and feels very sirocco-ish. A host of people are under a course of physic. The Sheïkh’s sons have taken up their position in the garden for the day. Received letters from Mr. Willshire, and some for the Sheïkh, which I hope will decide the question. I have been here a month all but two days. Preparations are making for the Sók.
Wednesday, May 18.—Therm. °. The heat is coming on with great power. Some of the Damání have arrived from Tagakánth, and the Súdán caravan is expected to-morrow. I walked out to the four hills leading to the sea. Mashulí is gone to the Sók at Tinzí. From Wád Nún to As-serír three hours; to Tergezít one day; toTínzert one day; to Oúfren two short days; to Tazerwelt, the residence of Sídí Hasan, two days; to Tinzí three or four days. This line is often taken from hence to the desert. Visited all the gardens to-day; but there is not a single vegetable cultivated here, with the exception of a few onions; fruits, however, such as grapes, figs, dates, pomegranates, and prickly pears, are in abundance. In some of the gardens I found one or two apple-trees: but they never wait for the fruit to ripen. The Sheïkh is rather fidgety, but has said nothing.
Thursday, May 19.—Therm. 76°. It was very cold during the night, notwithstanding the doors that have been put to my room. There is an evident change for the better in our treatment: but I am more anxious about a change of place, and the permission to let us be moving to the south. Something was said, but not to me, of our going in about a month. The Sheïkh has evidently something on his mind, but is afraid to speak out. He is an extraordinary person; I have never seen such a combination of opposites in any individual: at one time proud, arrogant, austere, despotic, and occasionally savage; he then changes his character, and becomes low and grovelling, or else full of kindness, frank and open-hearted: now severely punishing his slaves, and now taking the meanest and dirtiest to his arms, passing at once from finery to filth. Although he thinks nothing of cooking three or four sheep a-day, yet he will ask for the refuse of my tobacco-leaves to fill his own pipe. He is much led by others, and in constant fear about his money. He has a numerous family, four wives, forty female slaves, and hosts of children in all the tents, as he is an universal lover. The wretched state of many of his children is beyond all belief; they are covered with filth and vermin, and clothed in rags. His hoards of treasure must be very great; and as much of it is buried, it will be lost, perhaps for ever, should the owner die without disclosing the place of concealment. The people are all in a great bustle, preparing for the Sók. The place has great capabilities, and would yield, were the people of industrious habits, an immense revenue; but all are afraid of each other. I am now so changed inappearance, that I hardly know myself. I cannot master the language. The electrical horse has lost its power since its arrival here. There is a Sók to-day at Tinzí, from whence the people come here: none are more anxious for it than I am, and none will be more pleased at returning home than I shall be at going on. I have at last resolved, if a delay of more than a month is proposed, to retrace my steps to Fez, and start afreshIn-shá-llah! I have written my journal up to noon; at which period all were looking out for the káfilah. At twoP.M., eight camels and twenty individuals of the Damání tribe arrived here from Súdán, bringing with them gold, cloths, and twenty slaves, whose looks were savage in the extreme: they had a profusion of long black hair, and were half naked; their lips were remarkably thin, and their teeth looked like ivory; both themselves and their animals looked sadly haggard, and the whole affair tended rather to throw a damp upon my feelings and future movements. I have now told the Sheïkh that I would take no further excuse: he painted in strong colours the dangers and privations I must suffer, if I started except with a káfilah; but as none will move for four months, I determined to commit myself to the care of Providence, and take merely my guides, our guns and pistols being our escort, and not to take the road by Taudení and ’Arrawán, but to strike at once across the desert, and make for our point. Only one man is said to know the track, and I am to have him. All will be settled to-morrow, and I shall start one way or the other, after the Sók. News has been brought of the defeat of the Felláṭehs by the people of Bambárah, and that Hámed Libbú has come down to Hamdu-li-llah, which is about 250 miles south of Tumbuktú.
Friday, May 20.—Therm. 65°. It feels very cold, with a strong wind from the N.W., and heavy clouds. News has been brought by a second party, that the crops in Súdán have failed; that the Tawáriks have assembled on the east of Tumbuktú, and that most of the inhabitants have quitted the city, partly through fear, and partly to seek subsistence elsewhere. This morning we have heard more bad news: the Fulání are said to have been again beaten, with immense loss:some of the female captives have been brought to the Sheïkh; four as a present: they look well, and are well dressed, and do not seem to have suffered as much by the journey as their inhuman traffickers. This is a trying scene for poor Abú, as most of the captives are from the neighbourhood of the place where his family reside. The expedition for the slave-market has not been so fortunate, although the war has furnished an immense number for the people of Bambárah. My heart sickens at the sight of this horrid practice. In another lot of these unfortunate beings were six women, one of whom had given birth to a child on the road, which was thrown into the bargain. There was an old wretch who had come from Suweïrah to purchase female slaves: his examination was carried on in the most disgusting manner. I could not refrain from calling down the curse of Heaven on these inhuman wretches: in many but little feeling is shewn for the poor blacks; and they seemed to think less of their own fate than I did, who was merely a looker-on. One poor creature, however, who was a finer woman and less black than the rest, shed tears: I could have given her my dagger to have plunged it in the breast of the villain who was examining her: and yet these people pray four times a day, and think themselves superior to all God’s creatures. More than ever do I wish to get away from this den of hell-hounds. Each of the grown persons were in the prime of life, and had once possessed a home, and were more to be pitied than the children, who had never known the liberty of thought and act. To each of the ten slaves was given a lunch of bread; while both the inhuman buyers and sellers, after chuckling over their bargains, went to offer up their prayers to Heaven, before they took their daily meal. Can such unhallowed doings be permitted to endure longer? Oh! spirit of civilization, hither turn your eyes, and punish the purchasers, who ought to know better; for thus only will the sale be stopt. At length something has been settled definitively with the Sheïkh: I am not to wait for the káfilah, but to proceed with a few camels and five guides, the whole of whom I am to pay for; and we are to take the courier’s track, by which we shall reach Tumbuktú in forty days from starting. I am to leave this place ten days after the Sók. So far so good.
Saturday, May 21.—Therm. 66°. Wind still very strong. Parties are coming in for the Sók. Another small portion of the káfilah has arrived: the main body is expected here on Monday. Walked the entire circuit of the town, and visited the burial-ground, which is the prettiest I have seen in this country. Most of the graves are planted with flowers, and all are kept in good order. The tomb of Sídí El Kádí is very neat. Coming round by the gardens, I met some of the Damánís, who are anxious to take me on. Had a visit from a Sheïkh, who has just returned from Tumbuktú, where he has resided many years: he has been two months on the road, his camel being a weak one. Feel in much better spirits to-day.
Sunday, May 22.—Therm. 70°. Weather beautiful. Read the prayers, and kept the house till threeP.M.Another arrival from Tumbuktú: they were two persons of consequence upon white camels, and four others on their eshreb el ríhhs;[102]all were in good condition. They say that the káfilah will be here to-morrow. I am half-famished.
Monday, May 23.—Therm. 72°. The heat is increasing. Parties are arriving from all quarters for the Sók. News was brought this day, that the káfilah had been attacked by the tribe of Erdebát. The people of Tagakánth went out against them, and have taken from them one thousand camels, five hundred horses, thirty slaves, and all their arms, and have driven them towards the sea: this will make the káfilah one day later in its arrival here. Took my walk towards Agadír, and went afterwards to the Arab tents. Felt not very well. Am anxiously looking for the káfilah from Mogadór, which ought to have been here to-day, and is now looked for shortly after sun-set to-morrow.
Tuesday, May 24.—Therm. 76°. Weather melting towards the middle of the day. Went to look at the preparations: they are well arranged, and upon a large scale. The Sók are our fairs; the road exhibits one line of camels, horses, mules, and donkeys, the Sheïkhs vying with each other in the number of their attendants. The bulk of the Súdán caravan is not yet arrived, but expected at day-break. Allhere are very civil to the Súdán people; and all are anxious for me to go on. The Moors are just as jealous of hearing the name of Súdán mentioned. I sat on the ground, first with one party, and then with another, and heard from both the same story about their gold and silver mines: the brass, they talk of here, is iron pyrites and copper pyrites. I have received many invitations. The slaughter of cattle for to-morrow is immense: we have five sheep killed for the consumption of one day at this house; the public kitchen is all busied in preparing kuskusú and other eatables. The noise is beyond every thing I ever heard; nor must I expect any rest for the next three days and nights: the thing is really worth seeing. Of the whole mass of people collected together, I am the only individual not personally interested in it.
Wednesday, May 25.—Therm. 76°. The great gathering for the Sók still going on. I was kept up nearly the whole night by a strange creature from Dar’ah, whose wife had run away from him. He is convinced, from what he has heard, that I am a magician, and can give him a charm, that will not only bring the lady back, but will make her love him. Nothing I could say would persuade him to the contrary. I gave him one of my verses from the Koran, of which Abú wrote an explanation, and which I finished by.....................and some figures; this he carried to the Sók, and I had lots of applicants: the man is perfectly satisfied, and says that he now cares little about buying or selling. The Sók is a scene highly interesting: here are to be seen tribes from all parts, and individuals from all places. The great káfilah from Súdán has not arrived, but yet there are above twenty thousand men and animals, and many more will be here by the opening. To-morrow ten sheep will be killed for this house, which is like a booth at a race; my own room not excepted. I have here thirty guns, ten of the best saddles and bridles, powder-flasks and bags out of number. Abú was employed for two hours in making tea for my visitors. Not the least chance of sleep: all are in good humour.
Thursday, May 26.—Therm. 72°. During the whole night the house has been like a bear-garden. My patience was quite exhausted by thenumber of patients. Went to the Sók; it was a curious sight; but finding that I took off the attention of the buyers too much, I was returning home, when I met the great Fakír Sídí Mohammed. The influence of this man is quite extraordinary: he took me to every stall through the mart for the camels and horses; then to the kitchens; the crowd that followed us was immense. I had been grossly insulted in the morning, and threatened to shoot a fellow; and had given tongue, as far as I could, to six others, when a man forced his way through the crowd, and after kissing the Fakír, and whispering something in his ear, I was immediately hurried home; when I was there, I was told that my life was in danger, and advised upon no account to stir out again to-day. I observed two or three ill-looking fellows, who, I believe, were only kept in check by the Fakír, who told me that many a hand was on thekummiyah.[103]So much for the great Sheïkh Beïrúk’s power. I will give him a pill to-night. The Sók is considered a poor one.
The káfilah from Súdán having been attacked, and driven out of its route, has not arrived. The people of Tagakánth are not here, and others, from ten other places, are absent; while the people of Erdebat dare not come. Had they all arrived, they would have made the Sók twice as large. I have made up my mind to be contented with what I have seen, and I shall not go out to-morrow. This is a poor return for the trouble I have been at amongst these people. I am sick at heart with them all. I have been most outrageously insulted this afternoon, and which has been repeated with interest. In the evening I wrote to Mr. Willshire, to tell him I must abandon the thing. I have also told Sheïkh Mohammed my mind pretty freely, and I shall wait till Saturday, and then take my steps one way or the other: bear the thing any longer I cannot. It was curious to see slaves dressed up, and placed amongst the goods. The Marabouts[104]were very numerous; one strange figure on horseback especially collected a good deal of money from the gazing fools.
Friday, May 27.—Therm. 78°. Kept my word as to going out; took some bread and tobacco, and went off to the bed of the river, where I found a snug hole, surrounded by Oleanders, into which I crept, and passed there three hours very pleasantly in reading five of the satires of Horace. Saw persons passing and repassing; came out, and reconnoitring, could easily perceive that they were looking for me; there were three sets on horseback, and four and five in pairs, on foot. As soon as all was clear, I crept away to the part they had left, and was nearly suffering from it: the sun was intensely hot; suffocation came on, the pulse rising to 140°, or scarcely perceptible. I had no lancet, or on recovery should have bled myself. As I found myself sinking, I became alarmed, and bent my way towards home: on my arrival I found the Sheïkh was in a great stew, and had sent persons in every direction to find and bring me back. I was very ill, and driven nearly mad. Abú makes so bad an interpreter, and is so fearful of speaking out, that I am in a sad position. Did not go near the Sók. I have determined to make an example of one or two, and that will make the rest quiet. Starved myself the whole of the day, and took some medicine.
Saturday, May 28.—Therm. 76°. Morning cloudy, and appearance of rain. Find all the people more on the alert this morning, except poor Abú, whom I have been scolding to get rid of a little of my own bad temper. Feel very poorly to-day, and shall adopt the starving system again. The Sók finished to-day at noon; and all the roads are now crowded with persons returning home. Upon the whole it has been a failure, as the káfilah from Súdán did not arrive, and many of the tribes kept away through the fear of the small-pox. Sídí Hasan, the great star, did not make his appearance; and his brother came with very little style. I have written very strongly to the Sheïkh, complaining of the treatment I have received, and have determined to go on or back; I care not which: no common stock of patience could alone bear what I have had to suffer. These are without exception the most strange and savage people I have yet seen; they are without government,laws, or honour, and with no trace of feeling, except on matters connected with money-making, eating and sleeping. Any man may, and often does, shoot another out of mere caprice. The only persons not exposed to the dread of this fate, are the Marábuts and Saints: the Sheïkh, rich and powerful as he is, dares not shut his door against the dirtiest beast who thinks proper to enter. The kuskusú or tea-pot is a general invitation, and any and all may come in and feed. The Sheïkh is sadly annoyed at my letter: and my carrying matters with so high a hand will do some good: much, however, as I grumble and threaten, I must bear all. To return is impossible, and the danger of getting again through Sús is worse than all that the desert can present. A party, as usual, to drink tea in my rooms. Abú is quite disgusted, and poor Mahmúd and Seïd are in tears: they are the only two persons in the place who have a grain of feeling.
Sunday, May 29.—Therm. 78°. Got up very ill, and in bad spirits, and worse humour; took physic again, as my head is very bad. In consequence of having so many patients, who are returning from the fair, I have taken my Bible and Prayer-book to the garden, and locked myself in, where I read the service, and afterwards got a good sleep, and returned home in the evening much better. Abú tells me that the Sheïkh is very uneasy that I am ill, and am so dissatisfied, and that my conduct has cut him to the quick. A large arrival from Súdán of ivory and gum: one fair is hardly over before another begins. The people of Súdán are better than those of Wád Nún: their haggard looks belie their feelings; all of them are my friends, and I only wish that they and we were moving southwards: I would give any thing to get away. A party again to tea.
Monday, May 30.—Therm. 72°. We have had a bad night; a violent wind from the N.W. has given us all the rheumatism and lumbago, which the people are working off. Preparations are making for the káfilah, which is to start to-morrow for Suweïrah: all the guests are, thank God, gone. During the time of feasting all our best crockery was brought out: the highest guests were served in a wash-hand basin,and a certain other utensil was considered one of the most useful pieces of ware, from its having a handle: they could scarcely believe me, when I told them its use in Europe, and that extravagance had led some people to have it made of silver. Abú told them that the King had one of gold. I was not so much astonished at its use here, as we had our wine out of the same kind of vase at the house of the British agent in Marocco. A Jew was brought up for theft. The Sheïkh at length tells me that he has written to Tagakánth; this has raised my spirits, and I feel better; have starved for three whole days. The whole place is so full of ivory, feathers, gum, and wool, that it is difficult to get about: the natives are much surprised that I am not preparing to go back: I have, indeed, a difficult game to play. Five hundred sheep and goats were slaughtered for the fair; and the quantity of kuskusú and other eatables was immense.
Tuesday, May 31.—Therm. 78°. A quiet day, and a day’s quiet is quite a rarity. Did not leave the house; had some conversation with the Sheïkh, who seems to waver; still talks of the danger of the journey, and is desirous to detain me here. I have determined that he shall write to Tagakánth; if the expense is now to be exorbitant, I must wait for the kafilah, and go with Zeïn. Had I gone at first to him, I might have saved five hundred dollars. A young camel was killed for a feast to-night: I was so sickened at seeing some of the Arabs, and amongst them a relation of the Sheïkh’s, who took a large piece of the hump, and ate it raw, that all my appetite was gone for the night.
Wednesday, June 1.—Therm. 78°. It became excessively hot towards noon. At half-past twoP.M.the thermometer in the sun stood at 120°. Walked out and visited some Arab women; one of them had been brought a ten day’s journey across the desert, merely for me to look at her. The people of her tribe told her that I had given away all my medicines; but I could still look at her, and order some change in her diet; and she, poor thing, fancies she shall still recover. They would have me eat some dates, the largest and finest I have ever seen. Took my usual walk. The Sheïkh and I get on much better, although thereis but little chance of my proceeding, as the people of Tagakánth are carrying on a fierce war with those of Erdebát: but as the Sheïkh’s káfilah is detained in the Sahrá, I hope he will have to send for it; and this may be the means of helping me off. Got all right again, thinking of Horace’s expression—
“Qui semel aspexit, quantum dimissa petitisPræstent, mature redeat repetatque relicta.”
“Qui semel aspexit, quantum dimissa petitisPræstent, mature redeat repetatque relicta.”
“Qui semel aspexit, quantum dimissa petitisPræstent, mature redeat repetatque relicta.”
“Qui semel aspexit, quantum dimissa petitis
Præstent, mature redeat repetatque relicta.”
This is nearly my case.
Thursday, June 2.—Therm. 76°. Strong wind N.W. Went out to the mountains, and saw the bed of the Sey yad, which takes the name of Assaká, after passing the town of Asserír. The man who accompanied me said, that the Wád Dar’ah run into the sea at two day’s journey S. of Wád Nún; and four days beyond this, there was another river running from the Sahra into the sea. The town is now quite quiet. I feel anxious for the Sók Molud, which will take place in a few days, and then the Damánís will come here. No account of the káfilah.
Friday, June 3.—Therm. 80°.Dies non. I was hardly in bed, when one of the slave-boys fell from the roof of the house: they were going, I believe, to let him lie and die. I got him washed, when I found that he had broken his right arm and lower jaw; had knocked his teeth out, and his lower lip half off; the right knee, too, was dreadfully cut. I could hardly get these savages to point out a place where to lay him; all seemed to think he would not be saleable, if he recovered. I set his arm, bound up the jaw, and sewed up the laceration in his knee, and took off a part of the lip. I fear they will not pay the least attention to the poor little creature, who has been the most useful and hardest worked of the whole lot. I could hardly get warm water to wash and examine him. What my fate would be in the event of an accident, I may judge from this. I heartily wish I had never come near the wretches.
Saturday, June 4.—Therm. 80° and got up to 90°, at twoP.M.when it was 123° in the sun. This is the hottest day we have had; for though the solar heat was greater at Agadír, we had not near so great a degreeof heat in the shade. The poor boy is very bad: it appears that he was literally beaten off the roof by the beast Sudy Salaam. One of their own doctors has taken off my bandage, and displaced the bones. I have now done with him; yet poor creature he could be left to die even for a drop of cold water, but for Abú and myself. I wish some of the people to meet with a similar accident, and they should have taunts enough from me. Went out to see the La’b El Bárúd. There were but few riding, except Arabs; who rode very well. Returned home looking anxiously for the post to-morrow.
Sunday, June 5.—Therm. 84°. Read the prayers; and afterwards cleaned out my room, this being the only day when I can venture to do it, as the people are all at market. The heat has increased excessively. At half-past twoP.M.the thermometer was 95° under the corridor. The solar heat is unbearable. The poor boy is suffering much. The person who came from Marocco, calling upon the tribes to arm, is already returning. Foolish people. I recommended the Sheïk to have nothing to do with the matter, but to send his produce to Suweïrah, as soon as possible, as I feared the port would be blockaded.
Monday, June 6.—Therm. 88°. We were to have started this morning; but there is now no chance till the káfilah departs. How I am to exist here for two months longer I know not. The heat is excessive. Thermometer in the shade 100°: the very water is warm. Wrote to Mr. Willshire, to send me a courier by express, on whose arrival I may ground my application to the Sheïkh for some definite arrangement.
Tuesday, June 7.—Therm. 86° up to 100°, in the corridor. Too hot to move out: wrote all day. In the evening a set of niggers arrived from Tumbuktú; they kept the whole town alive and awake through the whole night with their music and singing: we had a picked lot here, and some Arabs, who sung with great effect, beating the ground with their hands by way of accompaniment: one lad had a very fine voice. All their songs were extemporaneous: one was made to suit me and my situation, and their opinion of my chance of success. As I cannot see to write till day-break, I have determined to try if I can get some sleep, despite the great noise.These people know nothing of hours; they eat, sleep and pray, when it suits them: they only regard the number of times each of these acts are performed in one light and one dark, as they call the day.
Wednesday, June 8th.—Therm. 85°. The whole place has got so baked by the heat of the three days, that they say it will not feel cool again for the next three months; that every day will be hotter and hotter till the houses and ground crack, when there will be a change. Too hot to stir out: I am getting very dissatisfied.
Thursday, June 9th.—Therm. 88°, at midnight 95°. Walked out to the lime-stone mountains: from this spot a pretty picture might be made of the town with the gardens; to the east the tomb of Sídí El Rází, and before it the Sók; the game of La’b el Bárúd at the back of Mes’úd’s house; on the west the heaps of corn with camels, mules, donkeys, and boys treading it out, and others winnowing with a shovel. Four black ladies have visited me to obtain a charm: the first wants something to make every one love her; the second that her piccaninnies may live; the third to know who ever has spoken ill of her; and the fourth to be made happy. The medicines have not yet arrived, but are to come next week. The heat is excessive. Some arrivals from the desert; but no hopes of our getting away.
Friday, June 10.—Therm. 85°. To-day our kuskusú was enlivened by a pumpkin, the only vegetable we have now had for seven weeks, except our daily onion: the pumpkin was a present, and had travelled far. Things are improving, if these hogs would only let Nature take her course. Last week they stripped the only apple tree in the place of the fruit, which was just formed, and to-day they have done the same to two apricots, because the heat of the few last days had just begun to turn them yellow. The grapes are eaten when they are as hard as stones, because each is afraid that another may get them. The heat is more oppressive than ever. The Sheïkh and all our party are in high spirits, in consequence of the arrival of some good news from Senegal.
Saturday, June 11.—Therm. 86°. Heat very trying through the whole day. I was asked whether the sun shone in England, and whether we hadthe moon and stars like those seen here? They would not believe me when I told them that the same stars they saw me looking at last night where just over the house in which I lived in London, and that we called them the Great Bear, and spoke of its tail, head and legs. I surprised them much by pointing out several constellations to them. Went only to the garden. Cannot get my letters taken to Suweïrah. Am most anxious to have matters put into a train.
Sunday, June 12.—Therm. 86°. Read the prayers, and finished poor Bruce: was much struck with many points of resemblance in our cases. Felt not very well, and did not leave the house: witnessed a sad scene in the evening. Some money had been stolen, and the slaves in the town were charged with the theft: one poor creature was tied up by his heels, his head bleeding profusely from a blow he had received whilst being brought here. In this position he was stripped and flogged with some plaited cow-hide over his legs and back: after hanging for half an hour, he was let down; when others were brought in to undergo a similar punishment. But my nerves could not stand it. The heartless wretches seemed, however, to enjoy the writhings of the poor creatures, whose misfortune it is to be black. Sick of the scene, I retired to my hole, and did not go out again. At night Abú told me they were released, lest the people here should be disturbed by their cries for water. The poor creatures had been under torture for some time, and stated they had not had their food, when they were brought here; and what is more horrible, some women were amongst the number. No regard, however, is paid to sex. The poor blacks are all káfirs in the wise judgment of these chosen people.
Monday, June 13.—Therm. 80°. It felt cold during the night, and this morning it is cloudy and oppressive. I feel hardly recovered from the disgraceful scene of last night. The Tagakánth people have at last arrived. I wish I had got my letters from Suweïrah, as this would be a good opportunity for speaking on the subject; although I would now rather wait for Zeïn and the káfilah, which would be better on the score of safety; besides the rains would be nearer their close. The unfortunate delay atGibraltar has done all the mischief. These people were the van of the great Súdán káfilah, which has now arrived with more than three hundred camels: the rest have remained at ’Akká, Tagakánth, &c. About eighty persons have arrived with it. Never did I meet with any people who gave me so complete an idea of savages. Their bodies are a mass of dirt, and their wan eyes are sunk in their heads; their teeth of pearly hue seem starting from their gums. They wear the hair long and in large quantities, some curled and others plaited. Half-dyed blue with the khoart, and half famished, they present a revolting exterior. But never did any people improve so much upon acquaintance. I had seen the Pindarí horseman in India, the Leoni savage in Arabia Felix, the Wahhábí in Yemen, the ’Abábdeh and Bisháré in Arabia, Petræa and Egypt; but all these have a great advantage in appearance over my friends the Damánís. The káfilah brought large quantities of ivory packed in skins; about four, six, or eight teeth on each camel............looking like small canoes; many loads of reïsh ostrich feathers; one hundred camels laden with gum, packed in hides, through which sticks are passed, and they are then slung like panniers on the back of the camel. Several Tamar[105]dates and a few bales of Súdán cloth: the camels that carry the gold have each a man riding to take charge of it. As soon as the animals were unloaded, the twenty Damánís came to the Sheïkh’s house, where they devoured a sheep with nearly half-hundred weight of kuskusú, and a camel-load of ripe mashmash (apricots), and then all lay down to sleep: in about an hour they got up and shook themselves, and then came in a body to see the Nazarene. I had some difficulty to keep myself from being smothered by them. The Sheïkh Kheisfer came to drive them away; when one, who seemed to have some command, said, “Nazarene, we are wild Arabs; none of us have ever seen a Christian; we know you are a great man; if our coming thus to you offends you, we will go; if not, astonish us. You are a magician; shew us some fire.” I lighted some tinder from the sun with my glass; and then shewed them my small globe, telescope, watch, pistols, &c. afterwards a lucifer-match; and, lastly, I set fire to my finger, dipping it in spirits of terebinth. This was too much for them: they becamealarmed; I then got my sword, &c. afterwards gave them snuff: they all smoked my pipe, and when that was finished, and I had examined all their eyes, and given many of them medicines, and would not take money for it, I was told I had only to say ‘Resúlí Mohammed,’[106]and go any where. This was the general wind up, and La’b el Báród finished the day: and as the evening saw my rooms filled again with these wild men, I was fairly tired out.
Tuesday, June 14.—Therm. 76°. It felt so cold in the night, that I was obliged to put my cloak over me. Day had hardly dawned, when Abú called me up to write to Mogador: my door was instantly beset by my Damání friends, all asking for He jjám (Physician). The intense curiosity of these people forms a striking contrast to the apathy of the Moors. They, however, overdid the thing, and I was compelled to order them all out. The Sheïkhs ’Alí and Hámed then visited me: they said they were the sons of the great Sheïkh of Taghakánth, and hoped I would allow them to come in, and they would not sit upon the carpet. From both of these intelligent persons I learnt many particulars respecting the route to Tumbuktú. They said they had been fifty days coming from Jennah, but they had often done it in less: the last time they were only forty-four days, allowing for halts; they say there are three roads to Tumbuktú; from hence to Waddán twenty-five days; but it can be done in twenty-two with light loads; from thence to Tishíṭ in thirty-five, if a person were a good traveller, and would go direct to that place, but by Waden he would want rest; from thence to Walátah ten days, and fifteen from thence to Jennah. The time will be the same by the other route to Tumbuktú; from hence to Taudenní twenty-five days, where one must halt; thence to ’Arrowán ten days, and stop again; from thence to Tumbucktú, five or six days; but the whole distance is sometimes performed without stopping: and this the Sheïkh Beïrúk says I must do for safety. The situation of Tumbuktú, as far as I can understand the account given by the Sheïkh’s sons, is very different to what is laid down on the map. They gave a flattering account of Hámed Libbó; that he has recovered from all his losses, and has an army of 100,000 men, in good order, andthat one of his hands is stronger than both of the Sultán of Marocco: I have made great friends with these people. In the afternoon I was honoured with a La’b el Báród. I find I am obliged to keep myself somewhat like a prisoner, through the fear of some Moors here. I have a bad foot, and besides am suffering from a disappointment. My party have not refused, but are afraid of proceeding. My expenses too have been and are still very great, and with little chance of their being lessened: should the money from England not arrive, I am a lost man; hence, I feel no little anxiety for the letters by the packet. The great Sók (Sók el Múlíd)[107]commences to-morrow; it is called Sók Aksa in the map, is distant twenty-two miles E. from hence, consequently the town of Nún is given incorrectly, for it is twenty-five miles E. of the sea. The river flows to the S. of it, the Búkukmán runs E.S.E., and then turns S., and joins the large Sayád, which flowing W. past Assaká, there takes that name, and empties itself into the sea. Three days S. of the Assaká is the river of Dar’ah, which is said to run into the sea, at a point, three days distant from this place, and that all the country on the N. bank, and a slip on the S., is brought into cultivation. From the Sheïkh’s sons I learnt also that each ostrich yields from five to ten pounds of feathers; the young ones produce the least quantity: hence the birds average about seven pounds. The usual number of eggs found in a nest is fifteen, although most of the birds lay twenty. The Shérb el Ríh[108](drinker of the wind) generally comes up with the birds on the second morning after being put upon the track; they kill them with short heavy sticks, about two feet long, and in most cases skin the birds, many of which arrived here quite perfect; the feathers are packed in bundles, secured by pieces of the neck of the skin of the bird.
Wednesday, June 15.—Therm. 76°. Weather much cooler. The Damánís are beginning to feel the difference of food. The slaves were astonished that I did not drink hot water (tea) to-day, as well as the others. Foot very sore.
Thursday, June 16.—Therm. 75°. All employed in putting a lock upon my door, as my room had been robbed. There has been a fight among the Jews: it arose from my giving the preference to the chief Jew for making some bread: his mother-in-law has been cruelly beaten: all are in arms and in a great passion. The people with the small-pox are walking about, sad figures; the only remedy used here is a small piece of stick, one end of which is covered with common tar, and occasionally forced up the nostrils.[109]I have now been here two months, and there has not been a single death out of a population of seven hundred grown persons, with hosts of children. The weather has become much cooler. Had another row about my food. I am almost starved. Mahmúd cut his stick[110]to-day. The sick are increasing, and I am heartily tired of them. Not over well myself.
Friday, June 17.—Therm. 72°. The change of temperature has been felt severely. I learnt this morning that the Jews’ quarrel arose from the jealousy of making my bread, and washing my clothes. A strange sort of justice is administered here; the beaten has been fined seven ducats, and the beater eight, because he was the richer person. I dare not intercede for my beaten friend; and were I to pay the money for him, he would be compelled to pay it again when I leave this place. All gone to the Jennah, but the Sheïkh, who is again demeaning himself with the poor and much to be pitied slaves. Would to God I could get away from this den of infamy and villainy: I see, however, but little chance of doing so. The Arabs, who the Moors call savages, are a superior race of beings to the wretches here. The son of the Sheïkh of the Damání told me plainly this morning that he would not ask Beïrúk even for bread to make a poultice, which I have recommended him to apply. I have no bread myself or I would give him some; andafter this row amongst the Jews, I shall be worse off for food than ever. I received a dinner, but it cost me a dollar; which is rather dear living. Sheïkh Mohammed has rather offended me.
Saturday, June 18.—Therm. 75°. Morning hazy, and feels scirocco-like; it became very hot towards the middle of the day. It is the glorious anniversary; how will it go off in London after a peace of twenty-one years. Hámed Damání is quite recovered, and the Sheïkh’s eyes are better: the latter cannot understand how some small pills should make his mouth sore. Patients out of number, and myself out of temper, looking most anxiously for letters from Mr. Willshire, which now must be on the road. Under any circumstances, I cannot expect to get off in less than a month; but only let that be certain, and I shall be satisfied. Hope my letters from England will arrive at the end of this month. I try but in vain to study. The house is a perfect bear-garden; the room very dirty, and I dare not venture to clean it: my things, once out of doors, would all go to rack. These people and the Arabs from the desert, have no sort of idea of time, nor have they any thing to distinguish night from day: the only regularity is respecting the number of the times of prayer, ablution and eating: they sleep, eat and drink, as nature prompts them; and are always ready, if an extra bowl of food is brought. I am tired to death.
Sunday, June 19.—Therm. 80°. All are hard at work in packing up for the Sók Múlíd (Sok Assa), to which they go to-morrow. Another disgusting scene took place in the court-yard this morning. A fine woman was pulled about, and exposed amidst the jeers of all these beasts: as she was handsome, the price asked was 150 mithkáls; but none would offer more than 130. As the bargain was being concluded for some Aj and Reïsh, there was a short deficiency to make up; which, after much cavilling, was settled by throwing in a little boy. This was, indeed, a sad scene for a Sunday morning. Went to my den in disgust, where I read the prayers, and kept out of sight the rest of the day. The place is crowded with strangers. Spoke very strongly to the Sheïkh about my detention; he assured me that he was only consultingmy safety; that in eight or ten days all arrangements would be completed, and begs of me to be patient.
Monday, June 20.—Therm. 76°. The house is comparatively quiet: most of the party are gone to Sók Múlíd. Had a quiet day, throughout the whole of which there was a cool breeze from the N.W. The sun set in a heavy bank running along the whole of the horizon.
Tuesday, June 21.—Therm. 68°. Up at oneA.M.to take observations, &c.; the night was very clear, and the bank disappeared in the W.; the wind was N.W., with heavy clouds in the S.; the mist lowered to the tops of the houses: a heavy rain in the S.W. by W., but clear towards the N. At nineA.M.all the place was in commotion, and the Sheïkh and his people were off on horseback in different directions, to look for a thief, who got into the yard of the house last night, and stole the Sheïkh’s favourite white horse. The Sheïkh’s son has returned, but the Damánís and others are in full chase. The stolen horse was one of great speed, and the thief had eight hours start. It will be interesting to know when the Damánís will come up with him; they have got their Shérb el Ríh; have looked at the print of the horse’s feet and his dung, and they will be sure to trace him by either sight or scent: like the B’híls in India, if they once see the track they never lose it. At tenP.M.one man returned, who stated that the Damánís said the horse had stopped, and they would now find him before morning. The man who brought this intelligence had ridden sixty miles, without intermission, on a mere bag of bones. The horses from here are not like the Shérb el Ríh; they are knocked up after five hours’ work: but the animals were all fresh when this man left them. My horse was to have gone with the rest; but as the brute of a son of the Sheïkh Mahmúd had thrown him down, being a very bad rider, and had broken both his knees, I would not let the poor creature go. The Sheïkh Beïrúk says, he would have kept up with the best of them; and I know that those of Hámed Damání, of Hájí Ibráhím, of Sídí ’Alí, of Zeïn, and of Habíb, can go for three days. I should certainly have liked mine to be tried. But his statewas not such as to warrant the experiment; although the people said that he would go just as well with broken knees as sound ones. No post arrived.
Wednesday, June 22.—Therm. 70°. Heavy and lowering; got cold towards the afternoon. Feeling unwell kept the house. No post.
Thursday, June 23.—Therm. 80°. The Damánís returned late yesterday, and without the horse, which they say is concealed somewhere. It had not gone beyond the place they reached; they supposed it had its shoes changed, and was taken to Sók Múlíd, where a party was dispatched this morning. The lock of the door of the Sheïkh’s house was picked by means of some hard paste of flour and water. The locks are all of wood, and the fastening consists of three or four small pegs of wood, which fall into corresponding holes. By forcing in the paste, the pegs were thrown up, and the door opened without any noise, and the horse stolen. The Sheïkh was more vexed at its happening during my stay here, than at the loss of the animal. I am out of health, spirits and temper. Kept my room the whole day.
Friday, June 24.—Therm. 80°. In the evening, after an uneasy day, the post arrived, bringing a letter from Mr. Willshire, which astonished me. I have been robbed right and left by the villain Majíbí, who states that he paid 320 ducats for me in Sús, or I should have been taken and sold; that Sheïkh ’Alí called me his prize, and he would have 500 for me. This fellow is the prince of scoundrels. The people from Taghakánth, for whom the Sheïkh had written, arrived in the course of the day, and I hope to-morrow to know what they mean to do.
Saturday, June 25.—Therm. 82°. Very hot and close; a melting day before us. Had a long conference with the Damánís; but nothing was said on the subject of my going. They made repeated attacks on the creed of the Christians, and spoke of the impossibility of our going to heaven without the aid of the prophet. I was strongly urged to turn Mohammedan: they would give me camels, nákahs, slaves, &c. I was at length obliged to silence them. After this came the newspapers, out of which I made some extracts, which Abú read to them in Arabic, andwith which they were highly pleased. They hoped the Sultán would persist in attacking the French: they said that these districts could furnish, mount, and arm fifty thousand men; but though they are fond of exaggeration, I think that twenty thousand might be raised in this quarter. A man has come this day to say, that he knows of two Christian slaves in the desert; they are Spaniards. He wishes to know if I would buy them, or if the consul at Suweïrah or Tangier would. After this, he asked me for some medicines. I gave him a settler, by asking how he could come to me a Christian, and ask for medicines, when he had taken these poor Christians, and meant to sell them? Upon this, some words ensued; to which the arrival of the Sheïkh put a stop. I told him to go to Suweïrah, and asked how could he expect mercy, who shewed so little to others? The heat very oppressive to-day. The Damánís were right: the stolen horse did not go beyond the place they pointed out. They have this day returned, having taken the thief, and his brother, who had stolen three cows: they had ridden the horse to death. The two brothers have made a pretty disclosure. They were sent by the son of Sídí Hasan to murder Billah, a confidential servant of the Sheïkh, who had left the service of Sídí Hasan, because the son of the latter had violated the wife of Billah. If they could not kill Billah, they were to seize and carry away his present wife, who is a pretty woman; and, failing in that, they were to steal the Sheïkh’s favourite horse, as a punishment for protecting Billah, who, with his wife, escaped both the murder and abduction, and the Sheïkh’s horse fell the sacrifice. For this pretty job the fellows were to have about three shillings each. I hope the Sheikh will shoot them. At length the Damánís have been to my rooms, and told me, that if no káfilah is to go for some time, they will proceed with me. I like them much; they are fine specimens of wild men, but not savages. A large party of them came in the evening, and staid till oneA.M., and only left me to go and eat.
Saturday, June 26.—Therm. 82°. Symptoms of heat by the haze over the mountains; spoke to the Sheïkh, and all appears to be settled, butthe main point is the money. If this is to be exorbitant, I shall give up the thing at once. This question is to be arranged, when Hájí Majíbí comes home. I fear I shall have a quarrel with that fellow before I get off. The Sheïkh recommends the káfilah: I am aware it would be the safer course, but I could not so well make notes and observations, and should be bored to death for advice and medicines during the whole road. If it goes soon, however, I shall join it; if not, I shall proceed with my five or six people. Read the prayers; most of the people here come to listen, although they could not understand a word. The tribe of Ergebát[111]has sent a deputation to the Sheïkh, and have this day been heard, and have explained the cause of their attack upon the Taghakánths. The Sheïkh decided in favour of the Ergebáts, and there is to be a reconciliation and friendship. I must try to profit by this event, and get past the Ergebáts before hostilities are renewed, which will be soon the case. The heat has been oppressive to-day; I am rather glad of it, as it helps to season me for the desert. Hope my party will not come this evening. This is one of the great feasts amongst the Muselmáns; but it is not kept here. The 12th of Safer is Mohammed’s birth-day. Went to rest early, fearing my party would come.