PLATE V BRASSO-CATTLEYA DIGBYANO-MOSSIÆ "Westonbirt Variety" (Raised from a cross between Brassavola Digbyana and Cattleya Mossiæ.)PLATE VBRASSO-CATTLEYA DIGBYANO-MOSSIÆ"Westonbirt Variety"(Raised from a cross between Brassavola Digbyana and Cattleya Mossiæ.)
When Orchid flowers are to be used for decorative purposes, no matter in what stage of development they may be, it adds greatly to their durability if they are placed head downward, thoroughly immersed in clean water (rain-water for preference), and kept so immersed until an hour or so before they are set up, gently shaking the water from them, and placing them on a cloth or some dry, cool surface until wanted. Treated in this way, Orchid flowers will last for weeks instead of days. The method should be to take them out of the dining-room or other place where they have been used after the guests have departed each evening. Have ready a large earthenware pan filled with water, and in it immerse the Orchid flowers, leaving them immersed until shortly before they are required to be set up again next day, repeating the same treatment every night. Managed in this way, sprays of Odontoglossums and other Orchids often last for weeks, and look better than freshly cut immature flowers do even on the first day. Flowers received by post should always be treated to the bath for some hours, and, during immersion, any defects which are reparable will be made good and the duration of the flowers ensured, especially if the immersion be repeated as before recommended. In this way Masdevallia, Sobralia, and other fugacious flowers may be used for decorative purposes for two evenings at least, but in the absence of immersion they would wither in a very short time. It might also be said that the Maidenhair Fern, alsoAsparagus plumosus, and other foliage used with the cut Orchids are materially benefited by immersion, the Maidenhair Fern especially; it should always be kept immersed until required for use.
Many interesting Orchids have been imported by amateurs who have friends or correspondents in the countries which the Orchids inhabit, and many more would have arrived alive if the persons who sent them possessed some knowledge of the best methods of collecting, packing, and forwardingthe plants. The want of this knowledge often results in the trouble the collector has taken being in vain, and disappointment to the receiver who gets the dead plants and has to tell his correspondent the sad tale of failure.
Orchids should be gathered and forwarded during their resting season, and with a sufficient time between their being sent off and their natural growing season to allow of the period of their transit being made before their resting season expires. This rule is often needlessly violated by those who are settled in the district from whence they are sending the Orchids, and who could easily wait until the resting season comes round. For those who are travelling and have to take the Orchids when they can and in whatever condition they may be, however, there is some excuse, and by carefully forwarding the plants, even although at the wrong season, many may get them over alive. Residents in the tropics often grow a collection of Orchids, bringing to the gardens around their residences the plants collected in distant parts of their districts. These growers have a notion that cultivated plants are the best to send their correspondents, therefore, although they could collect fresh plants, they think it safer to send those in their own gardens. These are the very worst plants to travel. They are usually collected in high localities, and their sojourn in a garden results in lowered vitality, which explains why a large proportion die during the journey to this country.
Freshly collected plants, in whatever stage they may be, are the best, the ideal conditions being to take the plants at mid-resting season, to have the case to receive them beneath the trees on which they are growing, to pack them off atonce to a shipping agent at the port of embarkation, to catch a steamer previously timed, and to consign the case or cases to a reliable shipping agent in England.
Another cause of mortality in Orchids during transit arises from the mistaken notion that the plants require to be prepared by drying before packing, and this practice is continued so long and rigorously in many cases that the plants are half dead before they are despatched.
No such preparation is needed; the plants should be packed at once after collecting, and any moisture which may be in them will escape through the small holes in the case. The parcels post is available from many parts of the tropics, and from some places it is the only reliable means of getting Orchids over in a reasonable time. But it is only available for small lots, and for these it forms the best means of forwarding. Unfortunately, there are drawbacks even to these means, for the parcels, especially from some ports, are frequently stowed in hot chambers on board the mail steamer, the object being to keep the mails dry, and plant-life is destroyed by the excessive heat.
Epiphytal Orchids with pseudo-bulbs, such as Cattleyas, Lælias, and Epidendrums, if collected at or near the proper season, require very little packing. The cases being ready, it is necessary to place a layer of plants at the bottom, with their heads all facing one way. The next layer is placed with the heads the reverse way, and so on until the box is full of plants firmly pressed in, but not sufficiently close to cause injury. During the packing a few struts of wood should be placed across the inside and fastened by nails driven into their ends from the outside; these will prevent the plants from forming amass and rolling about when the boxes are moved. A few small holes should be bored in the boxes to admit a little air.
Leafy epiphytal Orchids, such as Phalænopsis, Aërides, Vandas, and Saccolabiums, may be forwarded in the same way, but with a sprinkling of fine paper cuttings, layers of paper, fine but not resinous shavings, or dry moss between each row of plants. In respect to species which do not possess pseudo-bulbs it is absolutely necessary that they be sent at the proper resting season, if forwarded in bulk in boxes.
Phalænopsis for sending at any time are prepared by collectors in Java and the Philippines by establishing the plants on blocks. They are almost the only temporarily cultivated Orchids which often travel well when so managed, and they are usually sent fastened round the sides and backs of Wardian cases, a method which is somewhat costly. Terrestrial Orchids, such as Phaius, Calanthes, and others with above-ground pseudo-bulbs, if collected at the proper resting season, travel well packed in cases of moderate size and with a little dry packing material placed between the rows. The danger with these kinds is that the pseudo-bulbs, being soft and containing much moisture, are liable to decay, and a few damaged plants may cause the loss of all contained in the box.
Tuberous-rooted, terrestrial Orchids of the same nature as the British Orchis, and including the African Disas, and Satyriums, also the Habenarias of different regions, should be marked when in flower and lifted in the resting season, the tubers being placed in small boxes with a sprinkling of nearly dry sandy peat or sand, run inbetween the tubers. If there are several different kinds to be forwarded, all the small boxes containing them may be packed together in a larger box.
Next to the trouble caused by loss in transit is that of having plants arrive without any means of identification. The collector should be careful to write the name of every specimen on an imperishable label, or, better still, send each under a number and forward a numbered list with the names corresponding to the numbers on each kind sent. Those who are collecting Orchids should, as often as possible, dry specimens of the growth and flowers of each kind, forwarding one set, numbered similarly to the set retained, to their correspondent, or to some authority, for identification. A description or rough sketch of the plant should be given on the same sheet as the dried specimens, stating such important particulars as colour of flowers, altitude of habitat, and exact locality.
Much depends on the condition of the importations, whether they have been collected at the proper time, and whether they have been properly packed and forwarded. Many imported Orchids offered for sale cannot possibly do well, as from improper packing they have "heated," or been subjected to excessive heat or cold whilst on board. Cases of Orchids awaiting transit are often left on the landings in the full sun and become partially desiccated,though while dry still retaining a green appearance. Such collectors' failures die rapidly as soon as heat and moisture are given, and, even in the case of those which seem to establish a healthy appearance of the pseudo-bulbs, growth is not possible, as the growth-buds have been dried up. It is waste of time trying to bring such plants round, therefore care should be taken not to purchase them at any price.
Imported Orchids of all kinds should be trimmed over as soon as they are received, the damaged parts removed, and the plants placed in a cool-intermediate temperature after they have been sponged over. They may be suspended for a few days and afterwards placed in small pots of broken crocks. Pseudo-bulbous Orchids, such as Odontoglossums and Cattleyas, should not be watered, but they may be sponged occasionally until growth commences, when they should be potted in the usual manner.
Aërides, Saccolabiums, Vandas, Angræcums, and other Orchids not having pseudo-bulbs may be treated in the same way as the pseudo-bulbous kinds, it being probably the safer and more cautious policy. But good results, and a quicker establishment may be secured, if the plants are recoverable by immersing them for five minutes in a rain-water tank immediately on arrival, suspending them head downwards from the roof of the house afterwards, and repeating the dipping two or three times a week. This method has the advantage at least that those which were not recoverable are quickly discovered, while the sound plants soon plump up. With all imported plants there is no use potting them permanently and watering them until growth commences, but they must not be kept too hot in the meantime.
Many Orchids have fragrant flowers, while in some sections the fragrance is emitted by the whole plant. A large number of Burmese and Indian, highland Orchids, such asDendrobium moschatum, the section of deciduous Bulbophyllums which includesB. auricomum,B. hirtum,B. comosum, andB. suavissimum, have leaves that on becoming dry after falling give off a strong odour of newly-mown hay, the plants also in all their parts being similarly scented when dry, even the cases containing them being pleasantly scented by the plants.
The odours of Orchid flowers may generally be likened to well-known perfumes.Trichopilia suavis,Miltonia Roezlii, and others are scented like the Rose;Odontoglossum odoratumand some other Odontoglossums,Maxillaria pictaand other Maxillarias, like the Hawthorn. Certain Maxillarias of theM. luteo-albasection are scented like Honeysuckle, and odour similar to the Tuberose is given off by many Angræcums. Some have a much stronger odour at night than in the day, a peculiarity which is found inEpidendrum nocturnum,E. ciliare, and many species. Vanilla is a common scent in Orchids, being present in some Vandas. The odour of Violets is furnished byDendrobium heterocarpumand others of its class, and the Primrose, Wallflower, and other common garden plants have their exact imitators in the matter ofscent in some tropical Orchids—indeed, it is an interesting subject to consider how plants resemble each other in this particular. Then there are large numbers of Orchids with such delicate odours that some are unable to appreciate them, but they are specially grateful to those who detect them. Again, some Orchids have different odours at different times in the day. It is not safe, therefore, to declare a plant scentless unless it has been tested repeatedly at different times.
Variation in odour has been noticed. We remember flowering the firstOdontoglossum hebraicum, and on testing it its odour was of cinnamon. It passed to Sir Trevor Lawrence's collection, and we asked the late Mr. Spyers to test the odour, and he replied that it was of Hawthorn, like others of its class. He tested it several times with the same result, but for some time before it passed off he reported to us that it smelt exactly like cinnamon. Then there are odours in Orchids about which opinions are divided as to whether they are pleasant or not.Oncidium ornithorhynchumis an example; some like the odour of it very much, while it is disagreeable to others. The same applies to Anguloas, some Lycastes and Stanhopeas with strongly aromatic scent, which are pleasant at a distance, but not so when too closely approached. But the majority are distinctly pleasant,Cattleya Dowianaand its hybrids,C. Eldoradoand others, being delicately fragrant.
A very few are malodorous,Bulbophyllum Beccarinot being tolerable under any circumstances, the flowers smelling like some of the Stapelias.
A new interest has been added to Orchid culture by the pursuit of hybridising and raising seedling Orchids, which commenced withCalanthe Dominyi, raised in the nurseries of Messrs. Veitch and recorded in theGardeners' Chroniclein 1858. The practice has now become general, and a large number of Orchidists arrange for the production of new Orchids from seeds, while even in small collections some attention is given to the matter. When the engrossing pursuit is first taken up, the operator should neglect no opportunity to make himself conversant with the structure of the flowers. This may be done effectually by carefully examining any available flowers, and by making longitudinal sections of the bloom by cutting them in two, commencing at the apex of the column and finishing at the ovary and pedicel. This operation exposes the various organs that are concerned in the fertilisation of the flower.
In most Orchids, such for instance as Lælias and Cattleyas, it will be seen that the pollen masses are situated at the apex of the column covered by the anther cap, the stigma being in a cavity in the face of the column beneath it.
In Cypripedium there are two developed anthers; the viscous pollen masses are not enclosed in cases, but are placed opposite each other; the stigma is a shield-shapedbody seen inside the lip on the under side of the column, and the stigmatic surface is not viscous.
The details of the structure of the flowers being fully understood, it will readily be seen that the first process in the production of seeds is to fertilise the flower intended to bear the seed capsule with the pollen of the other parent selected. This is readily accomplished by lifting the pollen masses beneath the anther-cap with a thin pencil or sharpened stick and placing them on the stigmatic surface of the seed-bearing parent.
Flowers which are intended to be fertilised for seed-bearing should have their own pollen carefully removed before the pollen taken from the other plant is introduced, the pollen removed being used to effect the reverse cross, or to fertilise another species if desired.
In fertilising small flowers with the pollen of larger species, as in the case ofSophronitis grandiflorawith the pollinia of the larger species, the pollen masses may be cut and a portion of it used in crossing the smaller flower. When the flower of a plant has been fertilised, the plant should receive special attention; if it is a Cattleya, Lælia, or one of the large-growing epiphytes, it should, after the pseudo-bulb bearing the flower has had a number attached to it corresponding to the number in the stock-book in which the crosses are recorded, be suspended from the roof in a comfortable and not draughty situation. If the plant is in a pot, the pot should be placed in a basket and suspended; or if a suitable position can be found on the stage, it could be placed on an inverted pot to bring it into prominence and secure for it careful attention. Where there is a number of seed-bearing plants, theyshould be arranged together in the respective houses in which they are grown.
Early in its development, the seed capsule should be supported by ties, which, however, should not bring it into an unnatural position, or press tightly on the part supported. From this time failure may arise from the conflicting natures of the agents used, or from various causes. Even the production of a fine and seemingly mature fruit is not a certain indication of good seeds, for seed capsules have been produced by irritation of the stigmatic surface by grit or dust, but no fertile seeds can be thus produced. On approaching maturity, a tie should be made round the middle of the capsule to prevent loss of seed when the splitting of the capsule takes place, and, when it is thoroughly mature, it should be removed, placed in a flower-pot lined with tissue-paper, and put on a shelf in a dry potting-shed until so thoroughly ripe that the seeds are being shed in the tissue-paper covering.
At this stage it is possible for the first time to determine whether the seed, or any of it, is good or not. Examination with a strong lens will show whether the minute seeds are good or not by the presence or absence of the embryo in the centre of the elongated covering, which in imperfectly developed specimens is chaff-like and not thickened in the middle as are good seeds. Where no good seeds are found, it is the custom of some growers to discard it at once, and where but few good seeds appear, attempts are made to discard the chaff and to retain the supposed good ones for sowing. Where space admits, however, especially with the beginner, it would be more prudent to sow a portion of the contents of the capsule, whether supposed to be good or not.
A number of the seeds of all seed capsules should be sown as soon as they are ready, the remainder being carefully stored for sowing later if required, the seeds sown and those retained being carefully marked with the number in the record book.
The manner of sowing the seeds varies in different establishments, satisfactory results having been obtained under very dissimilar conditions. Failure at first is the usual record of the amateur taking up Orchid hybridisation, although some few get fairly good success from the commencement, while those who have had a run of bad luck usually conquer in the end if they persevere. A scientific reason for some failures has been given, namely, that an endophytic fungus said to be necessary to the development of the freshly germinated seeds is wanting in the early stages, but may be developed naturally after a time, and a better state of growth result. Be that as it may, it is a curious fact that the line of demarcation between failure and success in the matter of raising seedling Orchids is very narrow, and, when the operator succeeds in raising a fair proportion of the seeds sown, he is generally surprised at his former want of success, apparently under practically similar conditions. Formerly the common practice was to sow the seeds on the surface of the material in which the parent plant was growing, or a plant of some kindred variety. This practice has been generally satisfactory and continues in most amateur collections to the present day. A plant in a basket, or suspended pan orpot, is best, the subject being chosen for the good quality of the peat, Osmunda fibre, or whatever material the plant may be growing in. The Sphagnum-moss on the surface should be clipped very short, the plant thoroughly watered with rain water, and allowed to drain for a few hours. The seeds should be sown a few at a time, on the point of a knife or thin strip of hard wood or ivory, and carefully and evenly distributed over the surface of the material in which the selected plant is growing. In all cases the number of the record in the stock-book should be attached, a small celluloid tablet fastened by a thin wire being the best label, as it is clean and durable. Hybrids of Lælia, Cattleya, and other true epiphytes should be suspended in a warm, intermediate house, and Cypripediums and terrestrial Orchids may be sown in a similar manner in the pots of either the seed-bearing subject or similar kinds and placed in a moist, sheltered corner of a house, in which a genial warmth is maintained, the plants being elevated on inverted flower-pots. Once the seeds are sown, the plants fostering them should never be allowed to get dry.
Odontoglossum seeds come up best when sown on the surface of established plants in the manner described. To ensure the best results two or three sowings of each should be made, and the plants bearing the freshly sown seeds placed in different parts of the house, some being suspended and others placed on the stage.
The maintenance of a continual and even amount of moisture after sowing, and until the seedling plants send forth roots, is of the highest importance. To water either with a spouted or a rose pot overhead would wash the seedsaway. To avoid this, some resort to the practice of dipping the plants on which the seeds are sown, allowing the water to reach only to within an inch of the surface of the compost. This is better than watering overhead. Spraying with rain-water is an excellent means of securing uniform moisture, although it requires more care and attention than dipping. The sprayer is a great help in all stages of seedling Orchid growth, not only as a means of conveying moisture direct, but by spraying around the plants and on the staging it is a great aid to maintaining a moist atmosphere. Let the moisture be conveyed in whatever manner it may, it must not be forgotten that the seeds will perish soon after germination if allowed to get quite dry, either from failure of moisture in the material on which they are sown, or from an excessively dry air surrounding them. Against the above-mentioned practice of sowing the seeds on established plants, it is urged that in that way there is no certain means of keeping the different crosses from being mixed, by reason of the seeds of one kind getting into the water-tank and being thus conveyed and mixed with others; and by seeds falling from plants suspended overhead and coming up on plants beneath, and in other unexpected places. Such acquisitions, though often very acceptable, are puzzling, as there is no record of their origin, or if they come up amongst seeds which have a record, the chance introductions sometimes have a wrong parentage assigned to them.
PLATE VI CYMBIDIUM LOWIO-EBURNEUM (This plant has been commended for its culture on two separate occasions by the R.H.S.)PLATE VICYMBIDIUM LOWIO-EBURNEUM(This plant has been commended for its culture on two separate occasions by the R.H.S.)
To lessen such risks, it is the custom of some growers to arrange a seed-raising case, constructed like an ordinary propagating case, in form like a miniature lean-to, or span-roofed Orchid house. This is arranged over a part of the staging where there is a slight warmth from the hot-water pipes. The staging has a few inches of cocoa-nut fibre, or chopped Osmunda fibre, fine ballast, or other moisture-holding substance, and on this a number of inverted flower-pots are closely arranged to form stands for the pots or pans in which the material for sowing the seeds on is placed: or a light, open wood-work staging is arranged. The favourite surface for sowing the seeds on is prepared by stretching a small square of coarse calico or fine light muslin shading material over a ball of Sphagnum-moss, and pressing it into a 60 or small 48 size flower-pot, so that the unwrinkled convex surface of the ball has the centre just below the level of the rim of the pots, the sides being lower. These are thoroughly soaked and allowed to drain before sowing the seeds on them, and they are then placed on the inverted pots in the case. The covering of the case is sometimes of the nature of hinged sashes to lift from the front, but the most convenient and best covering is that formed of sheets or panes of glass cut about one foot wide and of a length sufficient to cover the frame, by resting one end on a groove in the front side of the case, and the other on the top bar. A sufficient number of these sheets of glass should be provided to cover the frame; they are excellent, as they give a certain means of continual ventilation in some degree through the laps of the glass, even when closed, and they may be closely or openly arranged to regulate the amount of air admitted. Such pieces of glass can easily be removed to inspect the seedlings.
What is commonly called "coddling" causes great mortality among Orchids, and in this particular the use ofseedling cases, if not very carefully and sensibly worked is less likely to be satisfactory than sowing the seeds on plants growing in the houses. Too much heat is very harmful. Odontoglossums proved difficult to raise at first, and this was mainly because the seedlings were kept too warm and close. If the cultures are carried on in the Odontoglossum house, success is generally attained, although the products are seldom so numerous as in Cattleya, Lælia, and Cypripedium hybrids.
Another plan adopted by some growers, and with tolerable success, is to place squares of Osmunda fibre in pans, and after soaking them, sow the seed on them. Others have discs of soft wood, such as Willow, cut across the grain and placed in flower-pots or pans with the fibre of the wood-grain uppermost; after soaking the discs, the seeds are sown on them. When not raised in glass cases, round or square pieces of glass are placed on the pots. Indeed, there is ample evidence that, provided good seeds are sown and placed in a suitable temperature, Orchid seeds germinate readily. The first sign of vitality is given by the good seeds assuming a green appearance; in time they become little spherical green bodies, which later produce a growing point; in due course the true root appears, and the little plants are ready for pricking off or transplanting into previously prepared store pots prepared with a good drainage of small crocks or broken charcoal in the bottom, some Osmunda fibre or other Orchid potting material, and an inch or so of very fine compost formed of decayed leaves, Osmunda fibre, or good Orchid peat and Sphagnum-moss in equal parts, the whole rubbed together through a fine sieve. Some add a proportion ofsand to this compost. The whole should be thoroughly well watered before the tiny seedlings are placed a quarter of an inch or so apart in small holes in the surface of the compost and sprayed to settle them in position. Up to this stage the greatest mortality is observed. Wide crosses between species of dissimilar nature, and which have up to the production of the growth point or root appeared to be doing well, having shown that they did not belong to the unfertile, suddenly collapse. Those which have taken a long time to germinate have fallen victims to the minute fungi, and other low forms of vegetable organism, which, commencing at one or two spots, have gradually overgrown the surface of the pot and destroyed them. The stronger are often destroyed by small insects, while drip, however carefully guarded against, claims its share of the spoil. These things are specially vexing to the amateur who is working in a small way. To the expert cultivator who has a multitude of subjects in hand, and whose methods and appliances mitigate the evils, the losses are not so serious, for when Orchid seeds germinate freely they provide for losses when sown on a large scale. Nothing is gained by removing the little seedlings from the seed pot or basket too early. If thriving, they should be left until they are large enough to be handled safely. But where there is overcrowding, or "damping off," or decay from fungus, it is best to remove some or all of the little seedlings in any stage of growth to the store-pots.
The store-pots should be returned to the seedling case, or placed on a shelf near the glass in a warm, moist house, where the seedlings should increase in size until they areready to remove to fresh store-pots, when they may be given more room; or if large enough, they may be placed singly in thimble pots, or three or four seedlings may be placed round the rims of thumb pots.
Seedling Odontoglossums, when large enough to occupy thimble pots, are found to thrive well when the pots are fixed in pans or shallow seed-boxes in Sphagnum-moss, and placed on a shelf near the glass in the Odontoglossum house, where, like other seedling Orchids, they should be lightly sprayed several times each day in fine, warm weather, and as often as may be deemed necessary in colder and dull weather.
From the time the little plants are established in small pots until their flowering stage, it is only a matter of ordinary culture, although, as a rule, the small seedlings are safer with four or five degrees more heat than is afforded the established plants. In the matter of growth from the seedling stage to the flowering plant, there is but little need of a resting season, even with species such as are deciduous when mature, although a diminished supply of water may be given for a short time to any which, having completed a growth, show no sign of developing a fresh one. In most cases, a thorough drying, even if it does not destroy a seedling, causes the flowering season to be delayed by a year, or even longer.
The careful shading of the seedling house is a very important matter. Very young plants do best in a subdued light, and until they are quite strong plants they should not be exposed to direct sunlight. A hot summer often kills even the plants which have been brought satisfactorily through a long winter. It is, therefore, advisable to haveon the seedling house, in addition to the lath roller blind, running on supports carrying it well above the glass of the roof, either a second lath roller blind running an inch or so above the glass and beneath the upper one, or a permanent thin cotton shading, which may be tacked on in spring and left until autumn; or, preferably, so fitted that it can be rolled up when it is not required.
The best varieties procurable should always be selected for hybridising, it having been proved that crosses originally made with indifferent varieties are much finer when raised again from more carefully selected varieties.
There seems to be no certain limit to the possibility of crossing; even the most dissimilar genera may be crossed with some probability of getting a successful result.
From the time the little plants are well established in single pots, the same potting material used for all of their kind may be employed, the plants in the earlier stage having the potting material in a finer condition than that provided for the larger plants as they approach the flowering stage.
As with other important operations, in Orchid potting and in the material used the practice varies considerably, even in the best collections, and this points to the fact that if the accommodation is good, the houses properly heated, and other details of culture carefully carried out, the exactcomposition of the potting material is of minor importance. For Cattleya and Lælia hybrids and a large number of epiphytes grown with them the compost is made by tearing up the materials with the hand, or in some other way which will not break the fibres very much. Osmunda fibre forms one-half to two-thirds of the compost, the other third being made up of good Sphagnum-moss and Oak leaves or other decayed, dryish leaves. We do not recommend leaf-soil or leaf-mould, which was formerly strongly advocated, especially by Continental growers, who used it with disastrous results. The most that is done now is to mix a proportion of it with other potting material for Lycastes, Calanthes, Phaius, and similar strong-growing terrestrial Orchids.
For mixing with the compost for hybrid Orchids, some use crushed crocks, sand, charcoal, and a small proportion of each or either may be employed safely, although there is no real need for such materials.
Polypodium fibre may also be substituted for Osmunda fibre, or a proportion of each may be used. Orchid peat fibre, which used to be the chief potting material for Orchids, is still perhaps as good as any of the other fibres, provided a really good quality can be obtained, a matter which has become increasingly difficult.
For Cypripediums, and especially Selenipediums, a proportion of good, fibrous loam should be added to the compost recommended for epiphytal Orchids, the proportion of loam being increased as the plants get larger. Phaius, Calanthes, Zygopetalums, Zygocolax, and other plants of a similar character should also have a proportion of loam-fibre in the compost, and in these cases Orchid peat maybe substituted for Osmunda fibre, if it is of good quality. So far as it has been tested, Osmunda fibre has an advantage over other fibres, in that it is more durable, retaining its fibre intact longer than any other. Osmunda fibre and Polypodium fibre in equal proportions, with an addition of leaves and Sphagnum-moss, make an excellent material for all young, epiphytal Orchids, the finer Polypodium fibre, if well worked in, giving substance to the more open Osmunda fibre.
For very small plants it is well to rub the mixture through a coarse sieve, but after the early stages the use of the sieve should be discontinued, and the compost carefully mixed with the hands.
Acanthophippium.—A small genus of terrestrial plants with oblong pseudo-bulbs, and broad, plicate leaves. Scape erect, flowers ventricose, yellow and reddish-purple. Warm house. Pot in equal parts of turfy loam, peat, and leaves. Rest dry after the leaves fade and growth is completed. The most familiar species areA. bicolor,A. javanicum, andA. striatum.
Acineta.—The species of Acineta are epiphytal Orchids with stout pseudo-bulbs and broad, coriaceous leaves. The flowers are produced in pendulous racemes; they arefleshy, whitish, or yellow, and spotted with purple or brown. They should be grown in baskets suspended in the intermediate house.A. Barkeri,A. densa, andA. Humboldtiiare free-growing species.
Acropera.SeeGongora.
Ada.—Cool-house genus from Colombia. Leafy evergreen plants with racemes of orange-scarlet flowers.Ada aurantiacais almost the sole representative of the genus in gardens, and should be grown even in the smallest collections.
Aëranthus.SeeAngræcum.
Aërides.—A large genus of evergreen Orchids with distichously arranged, leathery, green leaves, the stem producing air-roots freely. Natives of India, the Malay Archipelago, and other parts of that region, extending to Japan.
All the species of Aërides may be grown in pots, crocked from one-half to two-thirds of the way up, the old stems of the plants, when long, being placed in the pots before the crocks are filled in. The surface should be of good living Sphagnum-moss, and the plants should be liberally watered from the end of February or beginning of March until autumn, when the supply of water should be restricted according to the condition of growth of the plants. Those which have finished their growth and are not showing new leaves in the centre should be given the least supply, but it is not advisable to dry any off completely, unless for some reason they have to be kept comparatively cool throughout the winter, when they are safest if kept tolerably dry. The smaller species may be grown in baskets with advantage when convenient—indeed,the true epiphytal character of the whole genus would suggest that method as the better, but experience has proved that they may be equally well grown in pots. The warm house, or warm end of the intermediate house, suits all the species, butA. japonicummay be grown in the cool house. Most of the species have white and rose-coloured flowers, and they are very fragrant.
A. odoratum, one of the oldest of garden Orchids, is one of the best and most free-growing species.A. crispum,A. crassifolium,A. Fieldingii,A. Houlletianum,A. falcatum,A. Lawrenciæ,A. multiflorumin its many forms,A. quinquevulnera,A. suavissimum, andA. virensare the best for amateurs.
A. cylindricumandA. Vandarumhave terete leaves likeVanda teres, the former with white flowers, having a fleshy yellow and red lip, and the latter, which is more membraneous in substance, being white. Although often confused with each other in gardens, there is little resemblance between these two species.
Aganisia.—This genus thrives best in Orchid pans in the intermediate house, in the ordinary compost used for epiphytal Orchids, with an addition of leaves. Place the plants in a moist situation.
A. cæruleais of trailing habit, and has blue and white flowers.A. ionopterais white and purple, andA. lepidawhite.
Angræcum.—A large genus chiefly from Africa and Madagascar, and requiring similar treatment to Aërides. Botanists have divided the genus into Aëranthus, Listrostachys, Mystacidium, &c., but for garden purposes the one generic title suffices. The flowers of nearly all thespecies are white and fragrant, many of them being furnished with long, greenish spurs.
A representative selection could be made withA. arcuatum,A. Ellisii,A. Humblotii,A. infundibulare,A. Kotschyi,A. modestum,A. Scottianum,A. superbum(eburneum), andA. sesquipedale, the last-named Madagascar species being the finest of the genus.
Anguloa.—Colombian and Peruvian Orchids of strong growth, and similar in habit to Lycaste. The flowers are usually produced singly on upright stems. Pot in two-thirds peat and one-third Sphagnum-moss or Osmunda fibre. When good loam fibre can be obtained, a small proportion may be added. Intermediate house. Rest tolerably dry and cool after growth is completed.A. Clowesii, yellow;A. Ruckeri, yellow and dark-red;A. unifloraand its varietyeburnea, white.
Anœctochilus.—A dwarf genus with fleshy, creeping stems and very handsomely marked leaves. The plants should be grown in shallow Orchid pots, using a mixture of one-third peat, and loam and leaves in equal parts well mixed together, adding some finely broken crocks. The plants should be placed in a moist corner, or suspended in a shady part of a warm, moist house. They root along the stems, and may be increased by cutting the leading portions with a root or two and leaving the bases to break into new growth.
With the Anœctochili, and often under the same generic title, are usually associatedDossinia marmorata(A. Lowii), with broadly ovate, olive-green, veined leaves;Macodes Petola, emerald-green veined with gold;Hæmaria discolor, dark bronzy-red veined with copper colour, often namedGoodyera Dawsoniana, and plants of similar character. The flowers of most of the species are white. They are sometimes grown in plant cases, or under bell glasses, but if the proper position in a warm, moist house can be found, they are better without these coverings. Propagation renews the vigour of the plants and prevents them degenerating, as they often do in cultivation if left undisturbed for too long a period.
Ansellia.—A fine genus of some half-dozen species peculiar to Natal and Tropical Africa, and growing from one to six feet in height, the leafy pseudo-bulbs having at the top fine, branched spikes of yellow flowers, more or less barred or spotted with purple. Pot as for epiphytal Orchids, and grow in the intermediate house. Water the roots liberally until the flowering is past, and then rest the plants in cool and dry conditions.
A. africanais not only most commonly grown, but it is one of the finest species. Others, some of which are mere varieties ofA. africana, areA. confusa,A. gigantea,A. nilotica, andA. congoensis.
Arachnanthe.—This is a small genus of warm-house plants possessing extraordinary habits, and including the BorneanA. Lowii(Vanda Lowii), a very strong-growing species which bears drooping racemes of greenish-white flowers barred with red. The two basal blooms are dissimilar or dimorphic both in shape and colour, being tawny yellow spotted with purple. The plants should be grown in pots or baskets as Aërides. Other species areA. Cathcartii(Himalaya) andA. moschifera(Malaya).A. Cathcartiiwill thrive in the intermediate house.
Barkeria.—The Barkerias form a section of Epidendrums. They should be grown in baskets or suspending pans in the cool intermediate house. They require a dry and cool resting period.
Bartholina.—The Bartholinas are dwarf, terrestrial Orchids of South Africa. They should be potted in loam, peat, and sand, and cultivated on a greenhouse shelf. Rest dry and cool.B. pectinatais the only species in gardens.
BatemanniaandBollea.SeeZygopetalum.
Bifrenaria.—Pot these as recommended for epiphytal Orchids, and grow them in the intermediate house.B. Harrisoniæis the finest species. Others worthy of cultivation areB. aurantiaca,B. bicornaria,B. inodora,B. tyrianthina, andB. vitellina.
Brassia.—The Brassias are epiphytal Orchids of South America, and may be grown in the intermediate house. The most familiar species areB. brachiata,B. caudata,B. Lawrenceana, andB. verrucosa.
Broughtonia.—B. sanguineais a pretty, crimson-flowered species from Jamaica.B. lilacinais also a fine species, though rarely seen in gardens. Broughtonias should be grown on bare rafts suspended in the warm or intermediate house.
Brassavola.—A small genus with white, fragrant flowers.B. Digbyana, a species with large, fringed-lipped flowers, has been much used by the hybridist. Brassavolas may be grown with the Cattleyas.
Bulbophyllum.—A widely distributed genus which may be divided into two sections—the deciduous, chiefly Burmese, requiring a dry resting season; and the evergreen, which should not be strictly dried off. All the species thrive ina warm, intermediate house, with cooler rest for the deciduous and highland species. The genus is one of the most varied and remarkable, and full collections of them are grown by some amateurs.
Calanthe.—These are terrestrial Orchids, which may be divided into two sections—the evergreen of theC. veratrifoliaclass; and the deciduous, comprisingC. vestita,C. Veitchii, and numerous other species and hybrids which are extensively grown for flowering in winter. Pot them in a compost of one-half fibrous loam, one-fourth Sphagnum-moss, and one-fourth leaves, with a sprinkling of sand. Rest the deciduous section dry after flowering, and repot them when growth commences in spring. Water liberally with occasional applications of liquid manure, which should be withheld when the growth is completed.
Catasetum.—The Catasetums are curious, epiphytal Orchids, which should be grown in baskets, or Orchid pans, suspended in the intermediate house, and treated in a similar manner to the deciduous Dendrobiums. They require a long, dry rest after the growths are completed. All the species are worthy of cultivation,C. Bungerothii,C. splendens, andC. macrocarpabeing the more showy kinds.
Cattleya.—One of the largest, most varied, and florally beautiful genera of Orchids. The plants should be potted as recommended for epiphytal Orchids, and they should be grown in the intermediate house. TheC. labiatasection, includingC. Gaskelliana,C. Mossiæ,C. Mendelii,C. Dowianaand its varietyaurea,C Warscewiczii,C. Warneri, andC. Schröderæin succession, produce flowers for the greater part of the year.C. citrinashould be grown in the cool house, suspended from the roof. Cattleyas and Lælias areimpatient of a close atmosphere, and therefore the proper ventilation of the house in which they are grown is an important matter.C. Trianæ, var Hydra, is illustrated inPlate IV.
Chysis.—A small genus of intermediate-house epiphytes, comprisingC. bractescens, white;C. aureaandC. lævis, yellow and red;C. Limminghei, and several hybrids.
Cirrhopetalum.—A section of Bulbophyllum, of similar habit, and requiring similar treatment. The curiously formed flowers frequently have the upper segments fringed, and the lateral ones approached and continued into slender tails.
Cirrhæa.—Allied to Gongora, and requiring similar treatment.
Cochlioda.—A compact-growing genus to be grown with the Odontoglossums.C. Noezliana, scarlet, has been a fine species in the hands of the hybridiser, and in the future may give us "Scarlet Odontoglossums."C. vulcanicahas deep rose-coloured flowers.
Cœlia.—There are several species of Cœlia, and they require to be grown in the intermediate house.
Cœlogyne.—A very large genus of two distinct sections, that represented byC. cristatabeing evergreen; the Pleione or Indian crocus section deciduous, and requiring to be treated as terrestrial Orchids, while the larger section are epiphytal. The epiphytal sections are warm and intermediate house plants. The Pleiones should be grown in a cool house, and rested quite dry after the leaves fade and until growth again commences.