CHAPTER I.

Setting Out—Accommodations—Arrival at Sisal—Geographical and Political view of Yucatan—A Christening—Lady Smokers—Off for the Interior—Merida—A Feast-day—Christmas Eve—Christmas Day—Conclusion of a Feast—Holy Unction—Indian Character—Soldiers’ Return—Holy Days—Gaming.

The prospect of leaving one’s country for a season, affects different people in very different ways. To some, it suggests only the loss of friends, and the want of the conveniences which habit may have made to them the necessaries of life. By their formidable equipments, their groaning trunks, and systematic leave-takings, they intimate a foregone conclusion, that every nation except their own is peopled with Ishmaelites, whose hands are ever raised against the rest of mankind. There is another class, who have faith in man wherever he exists, and who rely upon the permanence of the laws of Nature; who do not imagine that a man is necessarily a cannibal or a troglodyte because born in a different degree of latitude, nor that water will refuse to run down hill at a foreigner’s request. Through their confidence in the uniformity of Nature’s laws, they feelit unnecessary to equip themselves for a campaign into chaos when they leave their native land, always presuming every corner of this planet, however remote from the illuminating centres of civilization, to be possessed of some of the elements of existence, such as air, fire, water, &c., which a traveller may spare himself the trouble of bringing from home in his trunk. With the latter class, kind reader, the author of the following notes deserves to be associated. He would require nothing but a valise to contain his outfit for a circumnavigation of the globe, and would include the moon in his circuit, if practicable, without materially enlarging his equipage, except, perhaps, by some device that would diminish the inconveniences of a rarefied atmosphere. This faith in the future, this trust in the resources which a mind of ordinary intelligence can always command under any sun and in any clime, sustained the writer in his determination, last fall, to visit some of the islands of the West India seas, almost without notice, and with scarcely more preparation than a domestic man would deem essential for an absence from home of a single week. The cork-legged merchant of Rotterdam did not commence his journeyings more unexpectedly to himself, nor less formidably panoplied against the emergencies of his unfortunate tour. To the writer’s unpreparedness, a term which, in such cases, usually signifies freedom from anxiety, he feels indebted for most of the pleasure which this excursion has afforded him; and he has only cause to regret the want of more elaboratepreparation, inasmuch as it may have deprived these pages of a portion of their interest and value.

It was at the conclusion of the long and frightful season of epidemic disease, which caused many a desolated home in New Orleans to be hung with cypress during the summer of the year 1841, and on the 26th day of November, that I embarked from the Crescent city for Havana. My original intention had been, to visit the Windward Islands; but, not finding the facilities of intercommunication which I had anticipated, and excited by the curiosity of seeing a region of country of which but little is known to citizens of the United States, I was induced to change my contemplated route. Accordingly, after a detention of ten days in Cuba, where I had passed some of the happiest days of my youth, I resolved to embrace the first opportunity that presented itself to run down to the coast of Mexico. I was soon enabled to secure a passage on board of a Spanish brig bound to Sisal, of which I was prompt to avail myself.

Early on the morning of the 9th of December, we slipped by the Moro Castle with a fine breeze, and had but just effected a good offing when the vessel was suddenly hove to, much to our surprise and alarm, and without any apparent reason. Our alarms were soon dispelled, however, by the welcome intelligence, through the cabin-boy, that “breakfast was ready!” Our own countrymen are not indifferent to the “family comforts,” and the English relish still less any interruption at their meals; but with the Spaniardeating seems to have risen to the importance of a religious ceremony. Heaving to for breakfast, in a Yankee craft, would be looked at with astonishment by an American tar—we question if it would not cancel the ship’s insurance policy. Every country, however, has its customs, and this is one peculiar to the flag under which we were now sailing. The meal happily ended, the yards were squared away, and the brig quietly pursued her course.

The cabin formed a part of the hold, without berths, bulk-heads, tables, or chairs. Planks were laid down for our accommodation, upon which our mattresses were distributed, the cargo forming sides, which, as the vessel rolled, served to retain us in our places. There were eight Mexican fellow-passengers, perfect out-and-outers in the way of eating, sleeping, and smoking, which they seemed to consider the ends for which they lived and moved and had their being. The captain proved to be a right good sailor, and his vessel, which was dignified by the name of a packet, shall be suffered to pass without censure, as deserving a better fate than awaited Sodom, in having at least one good man on board in the person of her excellent commander. After eleven days of continually pleasant weather we arrived in sight of the port of Sisal, on the north-west coast of Yucatan, on the 20th of the month; and, as the bills of lading might conscientiously have testified, “in good order and well-conditioned.”

This coast presents a line of shore scarcely merging from the ocean, with no distinguishing highlandto conduct the mariner to his destined port. The unpretending little town to which our course was directed, at this time, however, very innocently on its own part, loomed up from the horizon to an immense height, and it was not until we had approached very near the land that our false impressions were corrected.

We came to anchor about two miles from the shore, that being as near as it was deemed prudent for vessels of our burden to venture. A felucca, manned by three Indians, now boarded us, for the purpose of receiving the passengers. The place of landing was a long pier-head, loosely put together, composed of spiles and plank, the only one in the harbor where the imports and exports are received and shipped. When once fairly on terra firma, we all started under the escort of our worthy captain for a public house, followed by a retinue of Indians, that gave us for a time at least the consequential appearance of Eastern nabobs. This numerous troop belonged professionally to the class which in our Northern cities besiege the wharves upon the arrival of a steamboat, as hackmen, porters, dock loafers, &c., but in justice to the Indians be it observed, that they are much less clamorous and more civil than their more pretentious brethren of the North.

Early on the morning of our arrival, our baggage was sent to the custom-house; but the politeness of the gentlemen attached to that establishment made the examination a matter of mere form. This civility is acknowledged with the greater pleasure, in consequenceof its having been accorded without solicitation, and contrary to our expectation.

With the permission of my reader I will here step aside, for one moment, from the detail of my ramblings, to say a single word about the geographical and political condition of the country in which I now found myself a denizen, pledging myself, however, to detain the narrative upon nothing which will not be pertinent to and explanatory of the subsequent pages.

The peninsula of Yucatan extends over a surface of some eighty thousand square miles, lying in a north-east direction from Laguna de Términos, and jutting out north into the Gulf of Mexico, between the Bay of Campeachy and Honduras. It is about five hundred miles long, and one hundred and sixty broad, and is divided into five departments, eighteen districts, and containing two hundred and thirty-six towns. It is inhabited by something short of half a million of people, the majority of whom are Indians.

The country is almost one entire plain, half of which, to the north, consists of a light soil formed upon solid and broken masses of a white lime and flint rock. The other, the southern half, is a deep rich loam, but much affected by the heavy rains of summer, which present serious obstructions to the exertions of the agriculturist. There are no rivers in the interior. The inhabitants are supplied with water from sonatos, or natural wells, which are liberally distributed throughout the country by the formation of supposed subterraneous rivers.

Yucatan was formerly a part of the Mexican confederacy, but having recently declared her independence, she has her own President and Congress of legislators, elected by a limited class of qualified electors. Various attempts have been made, by menaces and by offers of negotiation on the part of the Mexicans, to reduce the refractory provincials to their allegiance, but hitherto without success. The deficiency of means, and the distracted condition of the Confederacy at home, have doubtless prevented the Mexicans from qualifying their diplomacy with physical force, which is probably the only kind of logic that will be conclusive.

Sisal, the place (as I have already mentioned) at which I disembarked, is situated upon the north-west side of the peninsula of Yucatan, and is the second port of the province. It presents an open roadstead, which, during the prevalence of the northerly winds, is considered very dangerous. The continuance of these storms frequently compels vessels to get under way and stand out to sea. The town has little of interest to strangers. Its population is about one thousand, consisting principally of Indians, and the residue are Mexicans. The houses are built of stone, are one story high, covering a large space of ground, with a court in the centre, embellished with trees and plants of the tropics. The roofs of the dwellings being thatched, give to the streets a somewhat singular aspect to strangers. The rooms of these buildings are large and airy, and their floors are formed of mortar and sand. Glass is not used; butlarge openings are formed, protected by gratings and doors, which admit the necessary supply of light and air.

Near the beach is a small square fortification, rudely constructed and oddly enough garrisoned, if one may judge from the appearance of the soldiers upon guard. The Indians, who exclusively perform the menial services required throughout the country, seem to be happy and contented. Their wants are few and simple. The men wear loose white cotton trousers, extending a little below the knee, with a shirt of the same, or striped gingham, a palm-leaf hat and sandals. The women wear a simple loose dress hanging from the shoulders, loose about the neck, and falling negligently to the ankles. These garments are more or less ornamented with needle-work, according to the taste or the means of the wearer.

Although so near home, this scene was so entirely new to me, that I was exceedingly anxious to get a glimpse of the surrounding country. Unsuccessful, however, in finding an immediate conveyance to Merida, the capital of the province, we loitered about the town during the day, but could not discover any very especial signs of business. Every thing appeared to be dull and inanimate.

In the evening we were invited, through the politeness of the Collector of the Port, to attend the baptismal ceremony of his infant. The priest was early at his post, and the whole population of Indians was soon collected about the dwelling, and preparations were made for a grand procession to the church,where the child was to be baptized. Every thing being in readiness, the whole mass started, led off by half-breed Indians and boys, making all kinds of discordant sounds, with drums, horns, and whistles; then the priest and the parents, with the child dressed out with flowers and ribands, and gold and silver ornaments; after these came the relations and friends, followed by the multitude. When they had arrived at the church, the performances were conducted in the usual Catholic style. The child appeared to be the only one who had any cause of complaint. The rough hands of the priest, and the continual pouring of cold water upon its delicate head, fully justified its boisterous protestations against such harsh treatment. Its restoration to the arms of its mother seemed to give great satisfaction to all parties present, except perhaps to the deaf and the blind.

The company now returned to the house. On the route, small pieces of silver coin were distributed among the Indians. The evening was spent, as is the custom on such occasions, in the greatest hilarity; and none appeared to enjoy it with a better relish than the priest. Dancing was kept up till nine o’clock, when supper was announced. The ladies being seated, a place was assigned to me by the side of the divine, to whom I had previously been introduced. This secured to me a seat in the vicinity of the choicest wit as well as wine, that was in circulation; for, after paying his respects once or twice to the wine that was before him, his good humor and sociability soon convinced me thathe would not willingly become the victim of too rigid fastings and carnal mortifications.

Supper being over, dancing was resumed. Those ladies and gentlemen who were not upon the floor, were smoking. The ladies here are general smokers; and do it, too, with a grace which, to a smoker, is a study. At first, it appeared rather strange to receive, from the delicate fingers of a female, a lighted cigar, yet fresh with the flavor which her own lips had imparted to it; but, with such tuition, we were quickly qualified to assume the customs of the country, and we now flatter ourselves that we can go through all that delicate etiquette with as much ease as though we were “to the manner born.” The ladies were dressed in the Spanish style, and appeared quite charming; they chiefly require animation. Their complexion is rather brunette, their hair dark, eyes black; and, generally, they are of a low stature.

We withdrew from the party at an early hour, after presenting our sincere congratulations to the mother of the “orator of the day,” and bidding adieu to the hospitable family. Once more in the street, we were lost in meditation. The incidents of the day came into review before us—the first day that we had passed here among strangers in a strange land. We found ourselves absolutely regretting to part from friends of an hour’s creation. He who has wandered much in the world may have experienced similar sensations. These are some of the transitory passages, “the sunny spots” of life, whichmemory most dearly cherishes. They are snatched, as it were, from the dull round of existence, and are sanctified by the unexpected gratification that attends them. These are a part of the items that constitute what man calls happiness—the jewels, no doubt; and we shall make them lawful prize wherever and whenever they fall in our way. These reflections brought us to our lodgings, where preparations were yet to be made for our departure for Merida the next morning; and, in spite of old philosophy or new acquaintance,

“The hour approaches, Tam maun ride.”

At nine o’clock in the morning my conveyance was ready at the door. It was a rude vehicle, called here acalesa, somewhat resembling the old-fashioned New England chaise, but as heavy and uncouth as wood and trappings could make it. The machine was drawn by three mules abreast, attached to it by plaited ropes. All the preparations having been completed, we started under whip and spur, Jehu-like, rattling over the rocks, to the no small hazard of bones and baggage. Fortunately, this speed did not continue long. The road, for two miles, was overflowed; and the Indian guide was necessarily compelled to direct his team with a greater degree of circumspection.

The road, for the first sixteen miles, was over a low marshy country, partially Macadamized, and raised in the form of a causeway; rather rough, but smooth compared with very many of our own,even in the State of New York. The sides were filled in with brush-wood as far as Hunucuma, about sixteen miles from Sisal. We stopped here, at noon, two hours, to give our faithful mules an opportunity to refresh, after a sultry morning’s travel. This pleasant village stands about half way between Sisal and Merida, and is surrounded by beautiful shrubbery. From this town, which possesses little interest to the foreign tourist, the open country appears to advantage; but it is not under a high state of cultivation. The road hence to Merida is finished in a style that would have done credit to the imperial enterprise of Hadrian. We passed through several small villages, occupied principally by the huts of the Indians, and, at five o’clock in the afternoon of the 22d instant, arrived at the metropolis, thirty-six miles distance from the place of landing, and drove up to the door of the amiable Doña Michaelé, who keeps the only public house in the city—not for her own personal advantage, as she informs her guests, but solely for their accommodation. Blessings on her kind heart, although her professions of philanthropy “something smacked, something grew too,” yet we believed every word of them, and made ourselves perfectly at home in the shortest possible time.

The residence of this lady stands in about the centre of the city, occupying a large space of ground, is one story high, with ranges of rooms and stables, forming a square, which is filled with fruit-trees of the tropics. The rooms are spacious and airy: they have large doors, and balconied windows, grated, butwithout glass. The floors are laid with stone, set in mortar. Of the Doña and her table, I may be permitted to say, that when I paid my bill I felt that I had cancelled all the obligations which her bounty had imposed upon me. Chocolate, with “panadulza,” a sweet bread made by the nuns, is served early in the morning, according to the general custom of the country; breakfast is ready at nine o’clock, made up of Spanish American dishes, composed of strips of meat, eggs, tortillas, and frejoles, (that is, corncake and black beans,) with coffee and wine. Her guests consisted of two Americans besides myself, who came here to trade, and remained, not to pray, but to be preyed upon by the most dismal prospects—three Mexican officers, who were exiled by Santa Ana; and three Spanish Jews, who were from Havana, with merchandise. Dinner was served at three o’clock. The Doña undoubtedly gave her boarders the best the market afforded, for she certainly exerted herself to render them satisfied with their fare. It would be absurd to enumerate dishes, and to object to the style of cooking because it did not happen to be in accordance with my own preferences or habits. Among the Mexicans of our company, however, it may not be improper to remark, that etiquette in the disposition of their food was but little observed; and knives and forks were unceremoniously thrown aside for the more primitive utensils with which nature had provided them.

The 23d of December was the festival of St. Christoval. It was made, like all the saints’ days inCatholic countries, a gala-day. Measures were taken accordingly, a week previous, to give to this festival its full effect. In front of the church is a large square, around the sides of which were placed poles and staging, forming an amphitheatre, adorned with rude paintings of various animals, and dressed off with flags and evergreens; the area of which was to be the scene of a modernbull-fight. The morning was ushered in by the firing of guns and squibs. The stores were closed, churches opened, bells ringing, and the population was literally emptied into the streets. At twelve o’clock signal rockets were fired, and the gates of the amphitheatre, which appeared to be the principal point of attraction, were thrown open, and a bull was led in by four Indians. Indians, mounted on horses, attacked him with spears, whilst others goaded him almost to madness with barbed sticks. A great noise was made with drums and horns, and by the acclamations of the audience, composed of ladies and gentlemen of Merida and its vicinity. The major part, however, of the assembly was composed of Indians. This portion of the festival was continued during the day; at the close of which the amphitheatre was deserted, and the neighboring houses were filled with people, abandoning themselves to the excitements of every variety of games, and to the dance.

This was the first bull-bait I had ever witnessed, and the impression it left upon me I shall never forget. These spectacles, however, have been so often and so graphically described by others, that it wouldbe almost presumption in me to attempt a description of the scene, or an analysis of my own feelings. The performance disgusted me to a degree, and has struck me as one of the most extraordinary psychological phenomena in nature, that any body of human beings could be found to whom such exhibitions should be, as they are to the Spanish, sources of the deepest interest and excitement.

To-day I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of several gentlemen of the place, who gave me a most cordial reception; among whom was the President of Yucatan. He is a successful merchant, a plain, unassuming, practical man; apparently, however, not much versed in political intrigues. The people have recently declared themselves independent of Mexico, and the government is now about sending commissioners to the capital of that republic to treat with Santa Ana, offering again to return to the Mexican Confederacy upon certain conditions; which, if acceded to, will give to this province most decided advantages, besides being still under the protection of the Confederacy.

Christmas eve we passed upon the Alameda, the public promenade of the city. The occasion brought together the great mass of the population. The ladies were prettily dressed, with veils tastefully thrown over their heads; and a beautiful moonlight evening was rendered still more charming by their smiles. The great majority were Indians. Their white, loose, cotton dress, bordered with colored needlework, with the janty veil, carelessly worn, givesthem an airy appearance, and embellishes features that are naturally pleasant and mild. There probably were six thousand Indians in this collection, mingling with the multitude, without any apparent distinction of rank or race, quietly indulging themselves in their walks. No loud talking or noisy merriment could be heard. Everything appeared to be conducted in a spirit of harmony and kind feeling. The temperance pledge was alike unnecessary and unknown.

At twelve o’clock (midnight) the crowd dispersed; a portion of them to the cathedral, to attend the performance of high mass. An immense crowd was assembled in this place. The aisles, domes, and fretted work of the windows were illuminated. The sound of music and the voice of the priest only were heard—all else was silence. The multitude knelt. It was an imposing sight—the dark ages were forgotten; and the prejudices of a thousand years were subdued in a moment. At two o’clock I left the cathedral and returned to my lodgings, with more liberal feelings, and a better man.

Christmas, as a holy-day, is strictly observed by the general suspension of business, and service is performed at all the churches, as in most other Catholic countries. The only exception to this uniformity perhaps consists in the devotional ceremonies usually offered to a cross affixed to the walls of the Bishop’s palace, which rites concluded the religious offices of the day. These services were performedby the Indians—and give but too painful evidence of the influence of their priesthood.

The next day was Sunday, and concluded the feast of St. Christoval. The churches were crowded, as is usual, during the morning; but the majority of the multitude that attended the service consisted of females, mostly Indian. In the afternoon we proceeded towards the church of St. Christoval, for the purpose of witnessing the closing scene of a festival which is finished by a procession. Before reaching our destination, however, we met it, and took a position in a door-way, the better to observe it and be out of the crowd. It was headed by eight or ten Indians, with long brass and tin horns, making the most discordant sounds imaginable. Then followed Indian boys, drumming on hollow pieces of wood, squalid and dirty in their appearance, and who were the only ones of a like character that presented themselves to view among the immense multitude. Next came the priests, chanting for the saints, and waving the burning incense, followed by drums and fifes in advance of a large image of the Virgin, decked in various colors, interspersed with tinsel ornaments, surmounted with glass vases, in which a lighted candle or a bouquet of flowers was alternately placed. This imposing display was borne upon the shoulders of eight Indians, surrounded by priests. The rear was brought up by a company of soldiers with fixed bayonets; the whole surrounded by an immense crowd, filling up the streets for a great distance. All were uncovered, and many kneltduring the haltings of the procession, which were purposely frequent, so as to enable the people to salute the image. This grand display occupied about three hours, the procession passing through the principal streets and back to the church, where it was dismissed. The whole dispersed with the utmost quietness; some to their homes, and others to places of gaming and dancing.

In returning to our lodgings we met a calesa, preceded by two Indians with lanterns, tinkling small bells, followed by four Indian soldiers, armed with muskets. The carriage contained a priest, who was going to administer holy unction. The people, as is the universal custom here, knelt as he passed. To obviate a similar necessity, we retreated into the nearest house; thereby escaping a charge of heresy, and the unpleasantness of coming in contact with muddy streets.

A stranger, on his first arrival in this country, is at a loss where to place the Indian in the scale of social life. He sees him clean and well dressed, mingling with the whites, and without distinction. To have Indian blood is no reproach, and family groups, in many cases, show this most palpably. It is not unusual to hear mothers threaten to send their children home to their respective fathers, whenever their rudeness requires chiding. The Indian, however, performs the menial labor of the country—and there is an appearance of apathy in his looks and actions, which seems to carry with it the signs of a broken, or at least a subdued spirit—resting uponhim like a melancholy vision, a dreamy remembrance, of better days. For, say what we please of him, he is the humble descendant of a once great and powerful people—the “children of the sun,” who were lords of that soil on which their offspring are now held in humiliating vassalage.

We were roused early this morning by the tramp of horses. It was a body of cavalry returning from a neighboring town, where they had been ordered for the purpose of quelling anémeute. They were headed by a small bloody-looking Mexican, with a pair of mustachios that the proudest Castilian might have envied. He was dressed in a blue roundabout, loose white trousers, and a glazed Mexican hat. His followers were mounted upon mules of the most jaded appearance, saddled and caparisoned with manilla matting and ropes. Each wore a shirt, trousers, and straw hat; and was bare-footed, except a pair of huge spurs, which embellished the otherwise naked heel of each rider. Their usual arms were the broadsword and pistols, but this squadron was not well equipped; and the common bayonet, with them, was frequently compelled to do duty for one or both of the other weapons. After so particular a description of these soldiers, it is a matter of extreme regret that the result of the expedition cannot be minutely stated. I feel entitled, however, to indulge a little pride in making the announcement, that they did return crowned with wreaths of victory.

INDIANS OF YUCATAN.

This season of the year is the high noon of the holy-days, which engrosses the best part of the year,and which formerly included two-thirds of it. Their number, some time since, was reduced by a bull from the Pope. The people testify their respect for these festival days (for such they are denominated) by processions and such amusements as are suited to their taste. Notwithstanding the acknowledged debasing effects of their sports and pastimes, which wholly consist of bull-baiting, cock-fighting, and gambling, they are not disgraced by any riotousness or drunkenness. It is a singular fact, that, although the degrading habit of gambling is general among all classes of society, male and female, drunkenness and its concomitant vices are unknown. The priests give countenance to these recreations, if they may be so called, both by their presence and participation. It is but due to the Yucatecos to say, that during my residence in their province, I never observed any cheating or quarrelling at the gaming table, nor have I observed others tempted by improper means to participate in the hazard of the gaming table, after the manner of people at the North. Gambling seems to be a passion peculiar to the Mexican’s character, which he indulges from motives quite independent of mercenary considerations. They usually gamble with cards; but of the skill or even the names of their games, I must plead an utter ignorance. Their interest would sometimes become perfectly intense, as every lineament of their countenances abundantly testified. Hope, fear, satisfaction, and disappointment followed each other in quick succession over their faces, while the portly priest and the flippant señora, who stoodnear, with their bets vibrating with the chances of the game, seemed scarcely less interested in the result than the more immediate parties. Had a spell of enchantment been laid upon the whole group, they could not have been more completely at the mercy of the uncontrollable hazards of their game. All moral accountability seemed to disappear before its irresistible fascinations.

THE PLANTAIN TREE.

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