CHAPTER IV.
Preparations for the Interior—Outfit, &c.—The Indian Boy—Departure from Merida—Arrival at Tixcoco—Calcachen—A Feast-day—Isamal at a distance—Arrival there—Our Palace—A Procession—Ancient Mounds—The Church—A striking Indian—Wrong Impressions—Tuncax—A Dilemma—Philosophy of the Road-side—A Dinner—Visit to a Curate—A Touch of Comfort—Mail Carrier—Sitax—An Indian Alcalde—Tinum—An Allusion—Valladolid—A Mistake rectified in time.
The varying and unsatisfactory accounts which I had received of the interior of Yucatan, had awakened in me an irresistible desire to explore it, although I tried in vain to define to myself the cause of my curiosity. Partly through a desire of novelty, and partly for the want of a more definite purpose, I resolved to invade those unexplored regions which had not yet found a corner in our geographies, nor even been reached by the all-pervading spirit of traffic. As soon as I had resolved, I addressed myself to the preparation of my outfit; in which, despite the ignorance and indolence of my Mexican aids, I was ultimately successful.
To some future traveller, it may be interesting to know the nature of my preparation.
In the first place, then, I provided myself with anover-allshirt, (pockets made to order,) Mexican riding-trousers,and palm-leaf hat. In addition to these, were a hammock and a striped blanket; the latter articleAmericanizedby ornamental stars, representing the emblems of my country, in white, red, and blue; under which one could sleep, fight, or negotiate, as circumstances might require. Of weapons, defensive and conciliatory, there were a double-barrelled gun, an Indian knife, and rather a limited amount of the smallest Spanish coin. The Indian and the Bowie knife are very similar in weight and shape. The former is an indispensable accompaniment upon a journey through this peninsula. It may be seen that, if driven to the wall, a very tolerable show of defence might have been made.
The cooking arrangements consisted of tin cups and pans, salt, and loco-foco matches. My philosophical and mathematical instruments were a memorandum book, an ordinary lead pencil, and a pocket compass! The instruments and dress were intrusted to no one but myself—the latter enveloped my person, while the former occupied those invaluable shirt-pockets, of which I claim to be the original inventor. To the Indian boy José, (pronounced Hosay,) whom I hired as a servant to accompany me, and who will be hereafter better known to my readers, was intrusted the other portion of my luggage.
The boy, to whom allusion has just been made, was decidedly genteel in his appearance. Though he has been termed a boy, he is of the kind who, among the Irish, never become men until they aremarried. He was about five-and-twenty years of age. His mother and sisters thought the world of him, and well they might; for he was most worthy of their affections. Both his physical and mental powers were very symmetrical. He was active, industrious, and faithful. If he had any fault, perhaps it was in being too amorous. I do not feel disposed, however, to quarrel with a constitutional infirmity.
I left the agreeable residence of Doña Michaelé, in company with myfidus Achates, on the twenty-ninth of January, on one of the most lovely mornings that the eye of God ever looked out upon to bless.
Our route was eastward, towards Valladolid. The road was wide, and in excellent condition, being one of the principal thoroughfares. This road is under the superintendence of government; and the expenses of its repairs are defrayed by a tax, similar to the road-tax usually levied in the United States.
At ten o’clock we arrived at the town of Tixcoco, and rode up to theCasa-real; which belongs to a class of houses set apart by the municipal authorities of every town for the accommodation of travellers. They are the substitutes for public houses; a convenience almost unknown to the country.
The Casa-real is also the receptacle for the public property of the place—such as implements of labor, punishment, &c.—consisting of crowbars, handcuffs, wooden scale-beams, and drums, staffs of the alcaldes, &c.
These accommodations and depositories are incharge of some six or eight Indians, who are drafted to serve one year, under the direction of the alcaldes, who represent aldermen in the judicial capacity. These Indians also attend upon the wants of strangers, and depend wholly upon the small pittances they receive for their support. It is almost needless to add, what follows necessarily from the tenure of their offices, that they are idle, negligent, and without enterprise.
At a quarter before eleven I took breakfast, which had been brought from some neighboring house. It was composed of eggs, tortillas, and frejoles. The tortillas are a kind of corn-cakes, and constitute the principal bread of the country. Frejoles are small black beans, in general use in all the provinces of Mexico, and occupy the same elevated rank in the domestic economy of that nation that the potato does in Ireland. To complete the morning’s repast, a calabash ofmazawas added. This is a drink prepared with corn, and is usually drunk by the natives in the place of tea and coffee.
The town of Tixcoco is ornamented with a large church, and the appurtenances thereto usually belonging in Catholic countries; but the dwellings, generally, are mere Indian huts, of mud walls and thatched roofs.
At three o’clock, after the heat of the day, we again started upon our route; and at six, rode up to the Casa-real of Calcachen, where we stopped during the night. The best room in the house was placed at our disposal. The corners of the apartmentproved that it had been swept; for the collections of months still remained there, astandingevidence of the fact.
The Casa-real, according to universal custom, fronts upon a public square; where great preparations were at this time making to celebrate some one of the religious festivals on the following Monday. An amphitheatre was erected, formed of poles, having a row of seats overlooking the arena, where bull-fights were to take place. In the evening, in anticipation of the festival, guns were discharged, and a display of fireworks took place from the roof of the church. The Indians, on these occasions, like our juvenile patriots previous to the fourth of July, usually anticipate the sport of the festal day some forty-eight hours or more before it arrives.
Next morning (Sunday) I was awakened before daylight by the noise of the natives, who, as usual, could not restrain their impatience for the arrival of their day of rejoicing. Wooden drums and horns were brought in requisition; and, atsun-rise, rockets were being discharged from the church. The bells were rung, the crowd entered the building, and quiet was restored.
Preparatory to cleansing our guns, previous to our departure from this town, they were discharged. This was understood by the Indians to be a complimentary salute to their saint, and they crowded around me, to my great annoyance, insisting that I should remain with them until the end of the feast. Flattering as was this invitation, which, at one time,I thought I should be compelled to accept, I succeeded in declining without giving offence. Bidding them adieu, we saddled our horses, and were once more upon the road. After passing through two small Indian towns of little notoriety, we arrived at Isamal at noon.
The road continued to be good; and four miles distant, the church could be seen, throwing the shadows of its massive walls over the surrounding objects.
On arriving at the Casa-real, it was found to be deplorably filthy and uncomfortable; to which I was in no condition of mind or body to submit. I went in quest of the Colonel of the town, whom I found to be a quondam friend, and an old housemate at Doña Michaelé’s, in Merida, and that he had been recently appointed to this station. From the natural politeness of this gentleman, I was guarantied a kind reception, and such good quarters were provided as to make me feel quite at home; as all will be prepared to believe, when they know of the accommodations.
We were the sole proprietors of a lordly mansion, with a retinue of Indians to attend our bidding. The structure which we inhabited occupies one side of a large square, and is raised upon strong and well-built arches of about twelve feet, supporting the long ranges of halls, rooms, and pillared corridors, of easy access by steps leading off at different sections. The whole was quite imposing in its appearance, and not the less attractive for having been recentlycleansed and whitewashed. This building was used for public offices in Isamal’s better days. I occupied the south-eastern angle of the mansion, looking out upon the square and market-place. The scene without, however, was not very fascinating. A few Indian women only were to be observed, selling or carrying meats and vegetables; and mules browsing over the grounds.
Sunday evening was being observed here by a long procession from one of the churches, composed of priests, and upwards of four hundred Indian girls, clad in plain white cotton dresses, each carrying a lighted candle. It was a beautiful and even an imposing sight. In this procession was carried a figure of the Virgin, surrounded by all the symbols of the church, upon a stage preceded by music, and heralded with occasional displays of fire-works.
In the morning, at an early hour, I visited the suburbs of the town, where I observed a number of mounds, the highest of which I judged to be from fifty to sixty feet, and which I ascended. The sides were very precipitous, and covered with loose stones. I was compelled to pull myself up by the aid of the bushes that overgrew the surface.
Before reaching the summit, and about two-thirds of the way from the base, is a square platform of about two acres in extent, in the centre of which is a well, partially filled in with stones, and more or less overgrown with vegetation. This dilapidation and decay had evidently been the work of centuries.
From the top of this mound there was a fine prospect.The view of the town, with its elevated church, and the flat-roofed, Moorish-looking houses, with the trees of the tropics interspersed, and the tall cocoa, varying the surface of the extended country in the distance, presented a rural scene rarely to be met with in this country.
The plane surface of the land around these elevations, precludes the supposition that they are natural formations. Their origin and purpose can only be surmised. Probably they were fortifications—perhaps look-out places:—
“An observatory, from whence to overlookThe surrounding world at one broad glance,And view their wily foes.â€
“An observatory, from whence to overlookThe surrounding world at one broad glance,And view their wily foes.â€
“An observatory, from whence to overlookThe surrounding world at one broad glance,And view their wily foes.â€
“An observatory, from whence to overlook
The surrounding world at one broad glance,
And view their wily foes.â€
Be this as it may, I felt awed when I looked upon them. I could not but feel that they established a sort of parenthetic connexion between myself and elder ages, and a strange people who had customs now unknown, and of whom history has preserved no better memorials than the indistinct yet eloquent piles of stone and earth before me.
After our breakfast, I called at the house of the curate, but he was absent; asserting the prerogative of the traveller, I thereupon introduced myself to the priest in charge, and informed him that I was a stranger, and should not be ungrateful for any attentions that might be bestowed upon me in that character. His reception was rather cool; but, as my object was to obtain information, I affected not to notice it. After some trivial delays, I was enabled to visit the church which had so struck my eye as Iapproached the city, and which I was desirous of seeing. It is situated in the centre of the city, upon an artificial elevation, which once, no doubt, was the site of some important structure of the ancient people who formerly inhabited this province. It was probably destroyed to make room for a monastery—the ruins of which (the church which forms a part of it being preserved) cover some acres of land.
The church was filled with rude carving, and with still more rude and incomprehensible paintings. Within the walls, which encompass the whole of the grounds, is a square that once must have been a magnificent place, but which is now totally neglected. It has on three sides a double row of pillars, forming a beautiful promenade, from which the country, as far as the eye can reach, is overlooked.
The priest who conducted me over the premises, seemed to know nothing of the church in which he officiated, and even less, if possible, of the city and its environs, whence came the patronage on which he subsisted. The Latin inscription upon the builder’s tablet was incomprehensible to him; but it is no more than justice to say, that he was evidently chagrined by the ignorance which he had been forced to exhibit. He conducted me to the turret, and pointed out the clock for my inspection; it was a rare piece of mechanism; but the most striking part of it was aliveIndian stationed beside it, to strike the hours.
The towns throughout this portion of the interior are well laid out, and the houses well built; everything looks as though they might be inhabited by a stirring people. Arriving in one of them at the close of the day, the stranger is led to attribute the pervading quiet to that particular time; in the morning he would think the same; but, at morning, noon, and night, the same composing monotony reigns, and all days, (those of the feasts excepted,) and all places, are alike. A listless apathy seems to hang around them—a pervading stillness and inactivity, which are painful to observe.
The principal stores are kept by the whites, who, in the ratio of population, are to the Indians, about as one to six. Their stock comprises all descriptions of goods required by the inhabitants; among which the article of distilled liquors is the most prominent—the demand for which, I observed, increased, as I advanced into the interior.
The Indian of the town clock has this moment struckone; the stores are closed, and the streets deserted. The whole of the population, excepting a few straggling natives, are in their hammocks. Midnight is on us in pantomime, without its darkness. In fifteen minutes more, all Yucatan, literally, may be said to be asleep—even my José now is looking at me with a drowsy eye, and wondering, no doubt, why I do not follow the example. The climate is really enervating, and I have determined to swing a while, if it be only to learn not to condemn the habits of others.
On the following morning we left Isamal, stopping occasionally upon the road-side, to examine the sonatoswhich lay in our route. These are large wells, which apparently have been formed by convulsions of Nature, in the midst of silicious and calcareous rocks. They contain a never failing supply of good water, and are a rendezvous of Indians, and halting-places for the muleteers, who usually are found taking their refreshments there. The calabash of Maza was always tendered to us with unrestrained hospitality, and we were almost uniformly asked to partake of their other provisions. Sharing the food of these humble wayfarers is an unfailing guarantee of their good-will, and to decline, if not construed as an offence, would certainly wound their sensibility.
I frequently had occasion to observe the tact that José possessed of making himself agreeable to those we met upon the road, and was often reminded of my good fortune in having secured his valuable services.
Parting from our transient friends, we hurried on in a vain effort to escape a violent shower which threatened us, and which overtook us in time to drench us thoroughly before we got refuge, at noon, in the Casa-real at Tuncax.
It is too late for me to expect any credit for remarking the mutability of all human affairs; but I was reminded of the fact to-day with all the force of a new revelation. But this morning I was quartered like a prince, with a palace for a dwelling, and a cacique’s retinue to obey my bidding; and now, there is not an Indian so poor as to do me reverence. The floor of the Casa-real into which fate had castme was not entirely covered with water. The hammock swung clear of the mud. There evidently had been a roof over head, and my situation would have been positively worse in the streets. Comparatively, then, I was comfortable. The rain too had almost ceased; the Indians were coming in, and the prospects of a dinner were brightening. Across the square stood the church, with its heavy walls blackened with the sun and the rain, with its gabled front, and pigeon-holed apex, and its trio of bells. By its side stood the house of the curate, with its low sides, and high though dilapidated thatched roof. There were some half dozen stores scattered about, and a few stone buildings, no doubt inhabited by the whites; the rest of the town, as usual, is made of Indian huts.
The dinner came, and it satisfied me that none can appreciate the importance of a meal, except those who have tried it after a day’s riding and fasting in a country like this. After a hearty repast of tortillas and frejoles, the weather was consulted, with a view of continuing our journey; but the result was not flattering. The fact was much clearer than the sky, that we were to remain here during the night, and there was no friendly Colonel within reach to rescue me from my lodgings. But it struck me that there must be some resource. The curate appeared to be the only chance, so to his house I wended my way, and entered with the customary “Ave Maria†upon my lips. He was swinging in his hammock. I introduced myself to him at once; describedthe deplorable state of the Casa-real, and solicited his influence in obtaining us more comfortable quarters. He received me very kindly, and promised to do all in his power to make me comfortable; and right well he kept his word. A bottle of “Abenaro,†a peculiar liquor of the country, and its accompaniment of cigars, were speedily sent for; and, in much less time than it requires to partake of either, I discovered that I was at home, at the house of my friend, the curate of Tuncax.
A long and animated conversation followed, which, I only recollect, was poorly understood by either, in consequence of the small amount of words which we comprehended in common. It was, mainly, of a political cast; politics being the subject in which he appeared to take most interest.
The curate was a young man, who, compared with many of his order in the country, had devoted much time to study. He has possessed the curacy for the last four years; but, if one may draw conclusions from things around, it is not a very lucrative situation.
Everything in the vicinity indicated extreme poverty; and I felt some embarrassment in asking to see his church and its nakedness. This, however, was happily obviated by a polite invitation, on his part, to conduct me through it. So, putting on his black velvet and silk, and mounting a curious high-peaked hat, and taking his telescope in his hand, he led the way over the broken stone floors, and along the dark damp halls, to the edifice.
As we entered, he remarked that it was poor. Indeed, that was plainly impressed upon everything in and about it. It had not even cleanliness and order to relieve its appearance. We passed through it, and ascended, by a flight of stone steps on the outside, to the roof, where, by the aid of the telescope, we had a fine view of the surrounding country.
On returning, my kind host made such immediate and complete arrangements for our accommodation, as guarantied to myménagenot only comfort, but some degree of splendor. On reaching the house that had been made ready for our reception, my friend, the curate, informed me that it was mine, and desired me to call for whatever I wished. The saddlebags and hammock were sent for, and everything was soon in a comfortable condition. The table was supplied with refreshments, and ornamented with large earthen cups of cool water, on the surface of which full-blown red roses were floating. The garden attached to my house, which I supposed, of course, was included in the gift, was fragrant with ripe oranges, and other delicious fruits. Besides all these, a whole troop of Indians were in attendance, to await my behests. There stands the Casa-real, our deserted hovel, just across the way. These sudden changes absolutely require nerve.
Between the kindness of the curate, the company of a civil dignitary of the town, and two other citizens, as guests, and a supper, which, I flatter myself, I was fully prepared to appreciate, served up with the unusual luxury of knives and forks, I contrivedto pass one of the most agreeable evenings that I had enjoyed since my departure from home.
At three o’clock on the following morning, we made ready to leave. The church was already lighted up, and the worthy curate at his post. At four we were in our saddles, and were soon making our way upon the road. The sky was clear and bright. The moon was half gone, throwing a sombre light upon all things around us. The green bushes by the road-side looked black; and the bleached wood of the rude crosses, erected at the pathway entrances to the haciendas, appeared forlorn and startling.
We met with but one living thing upon the road, and that was the mail-carrier. Neither the trampling of horses, nor the sound of horn, heralded his approach; but the clamping sounds of his wooden sandals, as they struck upon the stony road, gave us the first notice that he was near. The mail was contained in a small box, held by a strap, which passed round the head of the carrier, who was an Indian.
At eight o’clock we arrived at Sitax, the prettiest town we had seen; where we stopped for breakfast and to obtain a horse, that of José having given out. As I strolled about the place, I noticed a more marked appearance of order than was generally to be seen in the other towns. At the house of an old Indian I saw an earthen vase, something of the Etruscan shape, which he told me had been found among some of the ancient ruins in this province. He used it as an incense-burner; and refused to sell, or even toset a price upon it. Money is not omnipotent with these Indians, as in most civilized countries; and this prostration of the divinity almost startled me.
On returning to the Casa-real, breakfast and an alcalde were sent for. Both came. The former consisted of the almost undeviating course—eggs, tortillas, and frejoles; and the latter, of a strapping big Indian, barefooted, bearing his staff of office, and accompanied by one of his aids. My wants were soon explained; and he immediately despatched his aid, who brought an Indian that agreed to carry José and luggage to Valladolid, eight leagues, for the sum of half a dollar. The bargain was concluded, and the money paid in advance, as is always customary among the natives. This demand must be complied with uniformly. Even the women who wash clothes require amedioin advance, to buy soap.
The luggage was lashed to the back of a mule, and we were again upon the road. Several stops were made by the way, to visit haciendas and ranchos, (grain and cattle farms;) but little of interest occurred upon our journey. We arrived at the town of Tinum at two o’clock. The sun being excessively hot, we waited till evening. The Casa-real in this, as in other towns of the province, was the loafering-place of the Indians. They were squatted about in the shade, silent and motionless, killing time to the best of their abilities. At four o’clock we again betook ourselves to the road, and passing through several inconsiderable Indian towns, arrivedat Valladolid at dusk on the fourth day of February, distance one hundred and twenty miles from Merida.
For the greater part of the way from Isamal to this city, the road is level, though somewhat rough. As we drew near to Valladolid, gentle risings were more common at intervals, particularly near the sonatos. Although this road commences at the capital, and leads through all the principal cities and towns of the interior, it is but little travelled. No wheel carriages, of any description, were seen. Transportation is mostly effected by mules—perhaps I should say, by Indians; many of whom were met upon the road with heavy packages secured upon their backs, and held by plaited ropes passed around the head in the usual manner.
After a fatiguing day’s journey, we reined up in the square of the city, before the Casa-real, and dismounted. I discovered, however, before entering, that it was full; and, upon inquiry, ascertained that it was occupied by prisoners, who were detained there while their usual place was undergoing repairs. This sort of association not being altogether agreeable to me, we remounted, and went in quest of a countryman, who I heard was residing here. Successful, after much inquiry, in finding him, my name, the object of my visit to Valladolid, &c., were all communicated to him in due form; but somehow Mr. Stephens, who had been daily expected here for the last two months, had got into the head of my new acquaintance, as I afterwards learned, and, in his confusion, he had mistaken me for that celebratedtraveller, and led me, without my being aware of the misconception, to the house of a friend who had been long advised of that gentleman’s approach. I was met by the polite and hospitable owner of the house, and invited to walk in, while orders were given to have care taken of the horses. But, mistrusting that all was not right, I halted at the threshold, and requested a parley. It was only with a considerable degree of earnestness that I was enabled to convince him that I was neither Mr. Stephens nor theMedico, (alluding, probably, to Dr. Cabot, one of the companions of Mr. Stephens.) The amiable lady and her daughter were quite amused at the incident, and seemed rather to enjoy my embarrassment than otherwise. I drew off, and followed my countryman to his quarters, where I was kindly entertained for the night. This was rather a laughable circumstance; but I congratulated myself that we came to an understanding in time to prevent its becoming ludicrous.
The ROAD SIDE.
The ROAD SIDE.
The ROAD SIDE.