Starting from the Place du Parvis-Nôtre-Dame, follow the morning's Itinerary (p.122) as far as the railway bridge, then continue straight along the Avenue de Paris (N. 31). Before leaving Rheims the tourist can, if desired, visitHaubette Park.In this case, turn to the left, opposite No. 10, Avenue de Paris, into the Rue Flin des Oliviers. The entrance toHaubette Park (an annex of the Calmette Dispensary)stands at the beginning of this street, on the right.
Napoleon I. bivouacked in this park while his troops attacked Rheims in 1814. A monument and a small museum commemorate the event. At the end of 1914 Haubette Park was a favourite recreation ground and refuge for the inhabitants of the city during the bombardments.
Return to the junction of N. 31 (which leads to Fismes) with G. C. 6 (the road to Ville-en-Tardenois). Take N. 31 on the right. About 1 km. from the fork take the first road on the right.
On reachingTinqueuxturn to the left at the entrance to the village, and follow the main road.
The church of Tinqueux (St. Peter's) was entirely destroyed. It contained, on the left side of the nave, a remarkable 16th century painting on wood, representing theAdoration of the Shepherds, with a frame of the same period.
Near the church, between the Vesle and the main street of the village, stood an old baronial mansion, in front of which was a building with turreted façade known as theMaison de la Salle. Inside the buildings which, in later years, served as a farm, there was a curious old wooden staircase with railed balustrade. The whole was destroyed by the shells.
In September, 1914, at the beginning of the bombardment of Rheims, many of the people took refuge at Tinqueux.
THE MAIN STREET OF TINQUEUX VILLAGETHE MAIN STREET OF TINQUEUX VILLAGE
At the end of the main street of the village, opposite a kind of observation-post with ladder in a tree, turn to the right. The road passes at the foot ofMont St. Pierre, whose village and church entirely disappeared in the 17th century.It was to replace the church of Mont St. Pierre that the church of St. Pierre de Tinqueux was built at the end of the 17th century.
The road turns abruptly and nears the Vesle. Turn to the right and cross the river to reachSt. Brice.
Turn to the right at the entrance to the village and take the first street on the right, which leads to the church.
THE RUINED CHURCH OF CHAMPIGNYTHE RUINED CHURCH OF CHAMPIGNY
The Church of St. Brice was almost entirely destroyed. In style, it is Romanesque, with Renaissance doorway and aisles. The door of the west front contains interesting carvings—unhappily much mutilated.
Return by the same way to the cross-roads in front of the bridge over the Vesle, turn to the right, then, about 150 yards further on, to the left. Continue straight ahead, cross the railway (l.c.) and follow the railway on the left.
About half a mile further on an avenue on the right leads to theChâteau de la Malle. Both the castle and grounds were badly damaged by the bombardment.
Standing in the park with magnificent avenues of beech-trees, the castle is one of the most ancient manors in the vicinity of Rheims. It was rebuilt in one storey at the beginning of the 14th century on the old foundations. The decoration of the interior (Louis XVI.) is interesting. The drawing-room has retained its old wainscoting and paintings. A carved shield bearingthe arms of the Cauchon family, a member of which, the Bishop of Beauvais, sided with the English and the Duke of Burgundy against the Dauphin of France and Joan of Arc during the Hundred Years' War, is still to be seen over a door of one of the out-buildings.
Return by the same road to the Vesle. Cross the river and follow it (as per Itinerary, p.134), to the village of Champigny.
Cross straight through the village by the main street, at the end of which stands the church in a narrow by-street near the entrance to a park (photo, p.136).
The little church of St. Theodule is 12th century, except the wooden belfry, which was modern. The belfry and roof were destroyed.
MERFY CASTLE, CONVERTED BY THE GERMANS INTO A BLOCKHOUSE General Foch had his Headquarters there in 1914.MERFY CASTLE, CONVERTED BY THE GERMANS INTO A BLOCKHOUSEGeneral Foch had his Headquarters there in 1914.
On leaving the village, go straight ahead. The road (G.C. 75) follows the railway on the left. Cross the railway (l.c.). The road passes along the marshy valley of the Vesle, then rises towards theSt. Thierry Heights.
At the cross-roads ofthe hamlet of Mâco,keep straight on along G.C. 26. The road runs between two fairly high embankments containing numerous shelters. Slightly before entering the village ofMerfyis a cemetery containing graves of French, British and German soldiers.
At the entrance to the same village, on the right, standsa castle, severely damaged, which, early in September, 1914, served as headquarters to General Foch (photo above).
A little fartheris the church, almost entirely destroyed.
At the church, turn to the right and follow the main street, which is lined with houses in ruins.
On leaving Merfy, cross the railway (l.c.). The village ofSt. Thierryis reached shortly afterwards.
ENTRANCE TO ST. THIERRY VILLAGE The sign and camouflaging are German.ENTRANCE TO ST. THIERRY VILLAGEThe sign and camouflaging are German.
ST. THIERRY CHÂTEAU IN 1914ST. THIERRY CHÂTEAU IN 1914
ST. THIERRY CHÂTEAU IN 1919ST. THIERRY CHÂTEAU IN 1919
ST. THIERRY CHURCH See other photos, p. 140.ST. THIERRY CHURCH(See other photos, p.140.)
This village was frequently bombarded by the Germans from 1914 to 1918.It is crossed by a narrow, winding street containing several sharp turnings. Shortly before the end of the village, the street widens abruptly. About a hundred yards further on is the church, while on the right a monumental door gives accessto theChâteau of St. Thierry(photos, p.138).
This castle was built in 1777 by Mgr. de Talleyrand-Périgord, Archbishop of Rheims. It replaced the ancient abbey founded in the 6th century by St. Thierry, a disciple of St. Remi. Remains of the 12th century chapter-house ogives, colonnettes and capitals, as well as an old chimney-piece, have been rebuilt into the kitchens. The spacious Louis XVI. drawing-room and the dining-room were likewise remarkable.
The church (see photos above and on p.140) possessed certain remarkable features,e.g.the porch, nave and organ-loft. The 12th century porch had a 17th century pent-house roof.
Inside the church were Gothic stalls, and a 16th century bas-relief depictingThe Martyrdom of St. Quentin.
The church is now in ruins.
Opposite the castle gate turn to the left into G.C. 26.
In the embankments along the road are numerous shelters, posts of commandment, ammunition depots, etc.
ST. THIERRY CHURCH (see p. 139)ST. THIERRY CHURCH(see p.139)
RUINED PORTAL OF ST. THIERRY CHURCHRUINED PORTAL OF ST. THIERRY CHURCH
RUINS OF CHOIR, ST. THIERRY CHURCHRUINS OF CHOIR, ST. THIERRY CHURCH
RUINS OF THIL CHURCHRUINS OF THIL CHURCH
On reaching Thil, turn to the left at the entrance to the village. Go straight through.
The church, entirely in ruins,stands at the end of the village, on a small eminence to the right.
Half-way through the village, on the left, is a road which leads to the St. Thierry Fort, via the village of Pouillon.
The road from Thil to Cormicy was the starting-point of the communicating trenches which led to the first lines along the National Road No.44and along the canal from the Aisne to the Marne, during the long stabilisation period of the Berry-au-Bac—Rheims front. All along the road can still be seen, practically intact, the military works which were in the immediate rear of the front lines, viz., posts of commandment, depots, shelters, etc. At the present time, close to the destroyed villages, these shelters are being used by the people as habitations.
Beyond Thil, the road passes between two embankments.Villers-Franqueuxis soon reached. The ruined village and churchare somewhat to the right.
RUINS OF VILLERS-FRANQUEUXRUINS OF VILLERS-FRANQUEUX
RUINED CHURCH OF HERMONVILLERUINED CHURCH OF HERMONVILLE
Follow the rails, straight ahead, toHermonville.
Turn to the left, at the entrance to the village, into the large square, on the opposite side of which stands theTown Hall, partially destroyed. TheChurchis on the right.
This remarkable church is 12th century. The pointed vaulting of the nave was raised in 1870, but this had been provided for in the original plans. At the intersection of the transept the pointed vaulting is lower. The capitals with their finely carved palm-leaves appear to be rather more recent than those of the nave, and extend frieze-like round the pillars. The bays of the transept-arms and of the two square eastern chapels are round-arched and surmounted with a quatrefoil—an arrangement frequently met with in the vicinity of Rheims.
The outer porch, like that of Cauroy-les-Hermonville and St. Thierry, is a 12th century addition. The depressed arch of the entrance is 17th century.
The square tower at the corner of the nave and south transept has cubic capitals in the twin bays of the second storey.
The ancientcemetery, which used to surround the church, is bordered by old houses. Entrance was gained by a little gate facing the porch, in which are incrusted fragments of a 15th century altar-screen representing a horseman and a group of persons.
The village was frequently bombarded by the Germans after the Battle of the Marne. In 1916 several inhabitants were killed by shells.
Leave the church on the right, and follow the Rue Sébastopol, at the end of which is an abrupt turning to the left. The road skirts a large house and garden surrounded by a wall. At the end of the latter, turn to the right into the Rue de Sommerville. On leaving the village, turn to the left, then go straight on toCauroy-les-Hermonville.
CAUROY CHURCH IN 1914CAUROY CHURCH IN 1914
Turn to the right at the entrance to the village, then into the first street on the left, where stands thehalf-destroyedChurch of Nôtre-Dame.
This Church (historical monument) has an original 12th century porch, which was mutilated by the bombardments.
Romanesque in style, it stands out from the remainder of the building and extends over the whole breadth of the west front. Its tile-covered roof rests on a timber-work frame, whose beams appear to be 16th century. Two round-arched openings in the ends of the porch serve as entrances. The front is pierced with a number of round arcades. The central door giving access to the church is of a later date (16th or 17th century). The capitals of the arcadings are 12th century. Their curious decoration represents figures of men, animals, birds, scrolls, etc.
The ruined tower and nave were likewise 12th century. The side-chapels, transept-crossing and choir were rebuilt in the 16th century.
CAUROY CHURCH IN 1918CAUROY CHURCH IN 1918
STREET IN CAUROY VILLAGE (Seen from the Porch of the Church. To go from Cauroy to Cormicy, take this street opposite the Church.)STREET IN CAUROY VILLAGE(Seen from the Porch of the Church. To go from Cauroy to Cormicy, take this street opposite the Church.)
In the interior of the church, the wooden altar-screen over the high-altar dated from 1616. The painting which decorated its central panel, and the side woodwork of the choir were removed in 1888. The altar-screen (1547) of the southern side-chapel was composed of an assemblage of stone statues representingThe Virgin carrying Jesus, St. Roch, a pilgrim, andSt. Stephen, a deacon, with the donor kneeling at his feet.
Under several of the houses in the village are subterranean passages, the most noteworthy being that under the old presbytery on the left of the church, to which access is gained by a stair of fifty-one steps.
Leave the village of Cauroy by the street (photo, p.145) which opens up opposite the church.
The road passes through clumps ofdevastated trees.On the left side of the road isa cemetery, containing numerous well-organised shelters.The village ofCormicyis next reached.
Turn to the right at the entrance to the village. On either side aretree-lined boulevards, which were made on the ancient ramparts. The trees have been cut to pieces by the shells.
Cormicy was formerly a small fortified town with turret, gates, ramparts and moats, all of which have disappeared except one gate. The site was planted with trees, which surround practically the whole town. The town was destroyed in the time of Charles VI., during the Hundred Years' War.
The present village suffered severely during the German bombardments, most of the houses being damaged. In June, 1916, only eighty-three inhabitants remained in their homes.
CORMICY CHURCH IN 1914CORMICY CHURCH IN 1914
The ancientChurchwas likewise badly damaged (photos above and below). While the tower, west front, and the two first bays of the nave are late 15th or early 16th century, the greater part of the nave is 11th or 12th century. The chevet and the transept-crossing are early 13th century, while the transept ends probably date from the middle of 12th century.
CORMICY CHURCH IN 1918CORMICY CHURCH IN 1918
The portal comprises twin doors surmounted with a broad flamboyant recess. The doors have been partially mutilated. Above the window runs a balcony, the Gothic balustrade of which, known as theGloria Gallery, was modern. This balustrade was destroyed by the bombardments, which also brought down the steeple.
G.C. 32 ROAD ON LEAVING CORMICY (See Itinerary, p. 134.)G.C. 32 ROAD ON LEAVING CORMICY(See Itinerary, p.134.)
The west front has two Gothic doors with 16th century iron-work, at the extremity of the aisles. The tympana of these doors, formerly lighted, have been bricked up. The lintels have three consoles ornamented with fantastic animals and banderoles. The three statues which carried the consoles have long since disappeared.
In the south transept, on the left, behind the altar, is an interesting small door surmounted with a square lintel of the 11th or 12th century. Two figures of winged monsters with heads of a man and a woman and fish tails, stand out in high relief, framed and separated by a belt, on which are carvedfloretsmingled with fantastic figures.
The three remarkable 18th century marble altars of the choir and transept chapels come from the Church of the Nuns of Longueau, the abbey of which, in the Rue du Jard at Rheims, was sold in 1790. The high-altar occupies nearly the whole of the chancel. Over the tomb, six columns of grey Dinant marble, crowned with Corinthian capitals, support an oval marble cornice with richly carved and gilt consoles of wood. The very large, white and gilt tabernacle is a fine example of 17th or 18th century woodwork. Its door, decorated with symbolic attributes, is surrounded by statuettes depicting,in the lower part, St. John the Evangelist and a holy woman wearing crowns;above each of these figures, an angel;at the top, The Resurrection of Christ.
The sixteen carved oak stalls of the choir, as well as the wrought-iron reading-desk on a marble pedestal, also came from the former Abbey of Longueau.
Near the choir, on a pillar of the nave, is an inscription to the effect that the chroniclerFlodoard, who died in 966, wasCuréof Cormicy.
The modernTown Hall, built by the Rheims architect, Gosset the elder, which faced the church, was entirely destroyed.
All the places visited since leaving Merfy,i.e.St. Thierry, Thil, Villers-Franqueux, Hermonville and Cormicy, border the St. Thierry Heights. The latter are commanded by the fort of the same name and the Chenay Redoubt, with altitudes of about 670 and 620 feet respectively. They were recaptured from the Germans after the Battle of the Marne on September 11, 1914, by the French 3rd Corps.
After the loss of the Chemin-des-Dames and the Aisne Canal on May 27, 1918, this position, which with its guns commands the road and railway from Rheims to Soissons and the road from Rheims to Laon, remained the sole protection of Rheims to the north-west.
It was defended by the French 45th Infantry Division (General Naulin), composed of Algerian Sharp-shooters, Zouaves and African Light Infantry, who held their ground on May 27-28, after which they were reinforced by battalions of Singalese and Marines drawn from the sector east of Rheims.
The struggle was a fierce one, and hand-to-hand fighting frequent. Finally the constant inflow of German reserves forced back the French who, on May 29, had to abandon the position, to which the enemy afterwards clung for four months. On October 1 the Germans, beaten on the previous evening by the French 5th Army on the high ground between the Aisne and Rheims, was forced to retreat. The French regained possession of Merfy and St. Thierry, and advanced as far as the outskirts of the Fort of St. Thierry, which, with Thil and Villers-Franqueux, Hermonville, Courcy and Cormicy, fell into their hands in the course of the next few days (see map above).
DESTROYED BRIDGE OVER THE CANAL, NEAR LE GODATDESTROYED BRIDGE OVER THE CANAL, NEAR LE GODAT
Pass straight through Cormicy, leaving the church on the left. Take G.C. 32 to the Rheims-Laon road (N. 44), where turn to the right. Rather less than a mile further on, near theMaison Blanche,is a road leading toGodat Farm.Cars can only go as far as the canal, the destroyed bridge (photo above) not having yet been rebuilt. The lock-keeper's houseseen in the photograph belowwas completely destroyed.
THE LOCK-KEEPER'S HOUSE AT LE GODAT (Now destroyed.)THE LOCK-KEEPER'S HOUSE AT LE GODAT(Now destroyed.)
Cross the canal on foot to reach Godat Farm, situated about 300 yards further on.
Le Godat, formerly a small fief with a castle and chapel (destroyed during the Revolution in 1793), was merely a farm and a plain country house when the war broke out. By reason of its position, north of the Aisne Canal, this bridgehead was, throughout the war, one of the most fiercely disputed points in the sector north-west of Rheims, even during the period of trench-warfare. At the time of the French offensive of April, 1917, the 44th Infantry Regiment advanced beyond Le Godat, where the French held their ground until the powerful German push of May 27, 1918.
RUINS OF LE GODAT FARMRUINS OF LE GODAT FARM
The farm is now a mere heap of ruins. Shelters still exist in the basements.
Return to the National Road, and turn to the left.
The road crossesnumerous boyaux which provided access to the front-line trenches down the hill on the right.
Follow the National Road toChauffour Farm(in ruins),where take the road on the left toLoivre.
EMPLACEMENT OF GERMAN HEAVY GUN AT LOIVREEMPLACEMENT OF GERMAN HEAVY GUN AT LOIVRE
On nearing the canal, the ruins of the village of Loivre (entirely destroyed)become visible.
RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT LOIVRERUINS OF THE CHURCH AT LOIVRE
Loivre.—Visit the village on foot. The canal can only be crossed near the lock south-east of the village.The destroyed bridge has been replaced by a temporary footway across the bed of the canal, which necessitates climbing down and up the banks by steep paths.
After crossing the canal the tourist passes by theruins of the Loivre Glass-Works, founded in 1864 by the descendants of the noble house of Bigault de Grandrupt, glass manufacturers of Argonne.
GENERAL VIEW OF THE RUINS AT LOIVRE IN 1919GENERAL VIEW OF THE RUINS AT LOIVRE IN 1919
Loivre and its glass-works were occupied in September, 1914, by the Germans, who deported the inhabitants to the Ardennes. The village and workswere re-captured during the offensive of April 16, 1917, by the French 23rd and 133rd Infantry Regiments, surnamedLes BravesandLes Lionsrespectively. Whilst other battalions outflanked the village and crossed the canal, the third battalion ofLionsattacked it in front. The position, powerfully organised, was stoutly defended. The attacking troops were obliged to come to a halt in front of the cemetery (a veritable bastion with concrete casemates), and before the ruins of the mill, both of which bristled with machine-guns. Withdrawing slightly to allow of a barrage of 75's, they rushed forward again under the protection of the latter. The site of the mill and the cemetery were captured, together with numerous prisoners (122 were taken in one machine-gun shelter). The ruined village was next carried in a bayonet charge, to the sound of the bugles. The captures were considerable, one battalion of 500 men alone taking 825 prisoners.
SEPULCHRE IN THE CEMETERY AT LOIVRE, USED BY THE GERMANS AS A PHOTOGRAPHIC DARK-ROOMSEPULCHRE IN THE CEMETERY AT LOIVRE, USED BY THE GERMANS AS A PHOTOGRAPHIC DARK-ROOM
In March and May, 1918, two violent attacks were made on Loivre by the Germans, but without success. They took it on May 27, only to be driven out on October 4.
Before the war, a road, which has since completely disappeared,led direct from Loivre to Brimont. To reach the latter it is now necessary to go farther north, via Berméricourt and Orainville, returning southwards by the Neufchâtel to Rheims road (see Itinerary, p.134).
Berméricourt.—This hamlet, of Gallo-Frankish origin, was formerly more populous. The bombardments have literally wiped it out.
From Berméricourt the tourist reachesOrainvilleby G.C. 30, which becomes I.C. 2 after crossing the boundary line between the "departments" of the Marne and the Ardennes. At the entrance to the ruined village, near the church, turn to the right into I.C. 12, which, 1 kilometre further on, joins the road from Neufchâtel to Rheims (G.C. 9), where turn to the right.
Follow this road for four and a half kilometres to the ruins ofLandau Farm,turn to the right, then, about 200 yards further on, take the road on the left to thevillage of Brimont, entirely destroyed.
ALL THAT REMAINS OF BERMÉRICOURT VILLAGEALL THAT REMAINS OF BERMÉRICOURT VILLAGE
Situated to the west of the road from Rheims to Neufchâtel (formerly a Roman causeway which crossed the hill atCran de Brimont) Brimont was already important in Roman times. It was fortified in the Middle Ages, and traces of its ancient fortifications are still to be found on the hill. The discovery of a Roman tomb in 1790 caused considerable excitement in archæological circles, as it was believed to be the burial-place of the Frankish ChiefPharamondwho, according to one chronicler, had been buried on a hillock near Rheims.
In 1339, during the siege of Rheims by the English, the Duke of Lancaster had his camp at Brimont.
RUINS OF BRIMONT VILLAGE In the foreground, on the left: Road to Brimont Fort. On the right: Beginning of the road to the Château (entirely destroyed).RUINS OF BRIMONT VILLAGEIn the foreground, on the left: Road to Brimont Fort. On the right: Beginning of the road to the Château (entirely destroyed).
RUINS OF THE CHURCH OF BRIMONTRUINS OF THE CHURCH OF BRIMONT
On several occasions, since September, 1914, the Germans deported the inhabitants of Brimont and Coucy to the Ardennes. The village is now destroyed and its church a heap of ruins.
The church was built at the beginning of the 15th century.
The four last bays of the nave, which was partly Romanesque, were altered in the middle of the 16th century.
The sacristy occupied the lower storey of the square, pointed-arch tower.
Several ancient statues were placed at the entrance to the Choir:St Remi, with a woman in late 15th century dress kneeling at his feet; aVirginoffering grapes to the Infant Jesus in her arms (late 15th century) and a largeChrist Crucified, dated from the middle of the 16th century. A beautiful 18th centurylecternof carved wood, representing an eagle standing on a massive three-sided pedestal of red and white marble, stood in front of the Choir.
BRIMONT FORTBRIMONT FORT
To visit theFort of Brimont,skirt the church on the side of the portal staircase, then take the road seen on the photograph on p.152. The Fort is about 400 yards further on.
The Defences North of Rheims and the Fighting in that Sector
TheFort of Brimont, completed by theBattery of the Cran de Brimontabout a mile to the east, and on the west by theLoivre Battery, mentioned on page151, sweeps the whole country north of Rheims as far as the banks of the Aisne, Suippe, Retourne and the Aisne-Marne canal, the Rheims-Neufchâtel, Rheims-Vouziers, Rheims-Rethel and Rheims-Laon roads, and the Rheims-Laon and Rheims-Charleville railways. About five miles east of Brimont and four miles east of Rheims is the position ofBerru(see p.165), extending along a front of about six miles,viathe hills of Berru and Nogent l'Abbesse. Intended by those who planned it to guard the valley of the Suippe, the Rheims-Rethe and Rheims-Vouziers roads, as well as the Rheims-Charleville and Rheims-Châlons-sur-Marne railways, it comprises theFort of Witry(about 150 feet in altitude), the batteries ofLa Vigie de Berru(870 feet), and thefort and batteries of Nogent-l'Abbesse(670 feet).
The roads shown on the above map are those followed by the Third Itinerary (see p. 160).The roads shown on the above map are those followed by the Third Itinerary (see p.160.)
Brimont and Berru are further covered and linked up by theFort of Fresne(360 feet), situated four miles north-east of Rheims.
Thesedefensive works, conceived and executed after the war of 1870, had, in consequence of the evolution of strategical and tactical doctrines, been abandoned or disarmed before the war of 1914. After evacuating Rheims on September 12, 1914, the Germans grasped the importance of these works, to which they clung tenaciously, after hurriedly organising them. It was against these naturally strong positions, further strengthened by trenches, that the French 5th Army, in pursuit of the enemy, found themselves brought to a standstill on the evening of September 12. From September 13 to 18, the French tried in vain to capture them. The 5th Division, under General Mangin, did succeed in capturing theChâteau de Brimont, in the plain, but were unable to hold it.
Later, the Germans converted these hills into one of the most formidable positions organised by them in France. Brimont, Berru, Fresne and Nogent l'Abbesse, whose guns slowly destroyed Rheims, were, so to speak, her jailers for four years.
In April, 1917, during the French offensive of the Aisne, one division, known as the "Division of aces" (because its four regiments have the fourragère decoration), penetrated into Berméricourt and advanced to the outskirts of Brimont, but was unable to hold its ground against the furious counter-attacks of the Germans. It was only in October, 1918, that the French 5th Army, in conjunction with the victorious attacks of the 4th Army in Champagne, after forcing the Germans back to the Aisne and the canal, and after crossing the Aisne canal on October 4 in front of Loivre and near Berméricourt, forced the enemy, whose communications were now threatened, to abandon one of the most valuable portions of his 1914 positions. On October 5, the French re-entered Brimont and Nogent l'Abbesse, progressed beyond Bourgogne, Cernay-les-Rheims, Beine, Caurel and Pomacle, and, in spite of desperate enemy resistance, drove back the Germans to the Suippe.
After visiting the fort return to the village of Brimont.
From here theChâteau de Brimontmay be visited, but this will have to be done on foot as the road has been destroyed, traces only of it being left in places (the lower photograph on p.152shows the beginning of the road in the village).
TheChâteau de l'Ermitage, also known as the Château de Brimont,is situated about 500 yards south of the village, at the entrance to alarge park, completely devastated. It was the scene of desperate fighting (see p.152).
Return to Brimont, cross the village (skirting the church) and continue straight on to theCran de Brimont Redoubton the road to Rheims.Numerous German trenches, etc., are to be seen here.
Turn to the right into G.C. 9, which dips down to thePlain of Rheims. The region hereabouts bristle with barbed-wire entanglements and is crossed with numerous trenches. It was ranged to an incredible degree by the bombardments.
At the bottom of the hill which starts at the Cran de Brimont, cross Soulains Wood, of which onlya few torn tree-stumps remain.
Several hundred yards after leaving the wood, take on foot the broken road to the"Cavaliers de Courcy," situatedon the right, about 500 yards further on.
THE AISNE CANAL AT THE "CAVALIERS DE COURCY"THE AISNE CANAL AT THE "CAVALIERS DE COURCY"
To the north of La Neuvillette, the Aisne-Marne Canal is flanked on both sides by enormous artificial embankments planted with fir-trees and known as the "Cavaliers de Courcy." After their retreat in September, 1914, the Germans entrenched themselves there and clung to the east bank until April, 1917.
On April 16, 1917, the French 410th Regiment of the Line attacked the enemy's formidable positions there. This Brittany regiment set out from positions to which they had given names taken from the history of their country (Quimper Bastion,Auray,Redon Bastion, etc.). On the first day they carried three successive lines of defences, and advanced about a mile. On the 17th and 18th they left their zone of action, to ensure theliaisonon their right, and to help a brigade in difficulties on their left. For eight days they held their positions against powerful enemy counter-attacks, after having progressed to a depth of two miles and captured more than 400 prisoners, 11 bomb-throwers, and an immense amount of stores.
These positions, like the neighbouring villages, were re-taken by the Germans in May and June, 1918, and finally by the Allies in October, 1918.
Return to the road and follow it towards Rheims. Leave on the leftthe devastatedAviation-ground of Champagne—now in a state of complete upheaval, due to the terrific shelling it received—then cross thePlain of Bétheny(photo, p.157).
The Plain of Bétheny was the scene of two important historical events: in 1901 the Tsar Nicolas II. reviewed a part of the French Army there; in August, 1909, the Great Aviation Week was inaugurated there, in the presence of an immense crowd of spectators.
GERMAN FIRST-LINE POSITIONS BÉTHENY PLAIN (see sketch-map below) Photographed at 7,000 ft. from aeroplane, August 6, 1916, at 10 a.m.GERMAN FIRST-LINE POSITIONS BÉTHENY PLAIN(see sketch-map below)Photographed at 7,000 ft. from aeroplane, August 6, 1916, at 10 a.m.
THE GERMAN FIRST-LINE DEFENCES IN THE PLAIN OF BÉTHENY The tourist passes through this region on returning to Rheims, shortly before coming to the bridge under the railway. The sketch map explains the photograph above.THE GERMAN FIRST-LINE DEFENCES IN THE PLAIN OF BÉTHENYThe tourist passes through this region on returning to Rheims, shortly before coming to the bridge under the railway. The sketch map explains the photograph above.
Pass under the Rheims-Laon railway by a very sharp double turning.Pierquin Farm, entirely destroyed,stood on the right a short distance further on. The only remaining trace is the torn shapeless carcass of a large iron shed.
The railway embankment south of Pierquin Farm was fiercely disputed from September 18, 1914, onwards. Several enemy attacks against it broke down before the French 75's. During the offensive of May, 1918, the whole of this region was the scene of desperate fighting. La Neuvillette was taken on May 30, and Pierquin Farm on the 31st. On August 4, the French, after crossing the Aisne Canal, advanced to La Neuvillette, where the enemy made a desperate stand. At the beginning of October they advanced to the north of La Neuvillette, which the enemy was eventually compelled to abandon. The last inhabitants had left the locality on July 12, 1916.
The tourist enters Rheims by the Rue de Neufchâtel and the Avenue de Laon.
On reaching the Avenue de Laon, the tourist, instead of entering Rheims, may turn to the right and go northwards as far as thevillage and cemetery of La Neuvillette.
The cemetery of La Neuvilletteis on the right of the road, between the last houses of Rheims and the village. It was completely cut up by a network of first-line trenches (photos, p.159).
The village of La Neuvillette, now in ruins, was the scene of desperate fighting during the German offensive of May, 1918.
Nothing remains of the 12th century church of John-the-Baptist.
The glass-works north-west of the village, by the side of the canal, are now a heap of ruins (photo, p.159).
Return to Rheims by the same road.