CHAPTER II.ROMAN ANTIQUITIES.

Municipal institutions were first introduced into Britain by the Romans.  York was one of the first towns in England on which they were conferred.  We can discover very little to aid us in tracing the progressive history of the municipal government of the ancient city of Chester until the time of Ranulph, the third Earl Palatine, and nephew of the Earl Hugh; but being a Roman colony, the inhabitants no doubt were regarded as Roman citizens, and as such entitled to the same privileges which Rome itself possessed.  Pennant supposes that the Roman prætorium occupiedthe site on which St. Peter’s church is now built.  In this tribunal, if the case be so, the civil law and power would be exercised in those days.

“Before the city had any charter,” says King’s ‘Vale Royal,’ “they used by prescription divers liberties, and enjoyed a guild mercatory, that is, a brotherhood of merchants, and that whosoever was not admitted of that society, he could not use any trade or traffick within the city, nor be a tradesman therein.  And the tenor of this guild mercatory did even run in these words:—‘Sicut hactenus usi fuerint;’ and was after confirmed under the Earl’s seal.  And there were appointed two overseers, and those were appointed out of the chiefest of the citizens, and were greatly respected of the citizens as officers that had the special care of maintaining those privileges, before a mayor was ordained.”  These officers were elected annually, and were denominated leave-lookers; they were accustomed to go round the city to see that its privileges were preserved, and sometimes used to take small sums, calledleave-lookerage, forleavefor non-freemen to sell wares by retail.

In the reign of Edward the Confessor, the government of the city was vested in twelve judges, selected from the vassals of the king, the earl, and the bishop.

The first charter granted to the city was by the first Ranulph, also styled Ranulph le Meschin, third Earl of Chester, who died in 1128.  It grants to his tenants demesne of Chester, that none but they or their heirs shall buy or sell merchandise, brought to the city by sea or land, except at the fairs holden at the nativity of St. John the Baptist, and on the feast of St. Michael; and is directed thus—Ranul. com. Cestræ. constabulario. dupifero justiciar, vicecom. baron. militibus bullivis et omnibus servientibus suis præsentibus et futuris, salutem; Sciatis, &c.; and so makes a large grant to the city, and warrants the same strongly against his heirs, and appoints forfeitures upon all that shall withstand.  The charter, which is without date, is witnessed by Domino Hugone, Abbate Cestriæ.  Domino Hugone le Orebi, tunc. justiciar.  Warren de Vernon, &c., &c.  It was confirmed by the other two Earls Ranulphs, and also by Earl John, who strictly prohibited all buying and selling except as aforesaid, with other additions.  King John and Henry the Second also established it, with the addition of some further privileges.  Henry the Third granted three charters, in the first of which he recites, that he hath seen the former charters of the Earls, and doth grant and confirmdomesticis hominibus Cestr. &c., that none shall buy or sell merchandise in the city, but citizens, except in the fairs, &c., sub pœna £10.

It was at this time that, so far as we can ascertain, the first mayor was created.[14]In the 26th year of Henry’s reign, Sir Walter Lynnet was the first who was invested with civic honours and authority.  The mayoralty of Chester is, therefore, a very ancient one, only 58 years younger, we believe, than that of London.

In 1300 Edward the First confirmed the former charter of his father, Henry the Third; and by the same charter gave the city of Chester, with the appurtenances, liberties, and freedoms to the citizens of Chester and their heirs, to be holden of him and his heirs for ever, paying yearly £100.  He granted them also the election of coroners and pleas of the crown, and that the citizens shall have sock, sack, toll, theme, irfangtheof, outfangtheof, and to be free throughout all the land and dominion of toll, passage, &c.

Many other charters follow, and other matters connected with the government of the city.

Richard the Second, in 1347, “for the furtherance of justice and better execution thereof, grants unto his subjects, maiors, sheriffs, and commonality of the said city, to hold their courts; and limited what processes they may award in actions, personal felonies, appeals, process of uttagary, as at the common law;” and since then the sessions of the peace have continued to be held down to the present time.

Henry Seventh, “in consideration that through the decay of the haven and river, by many burstings forth, was become sandy and impassable, as before, for merchandise,” remitteth £80 annually of the fee farm rent.  And the said King Henry Seventh granteth that the city of Chester and the suburbs, towns, and hamlets thereof, the castle excepted, should be a county of itself, by the name of the county of Chester.

Henry the Eighth sent letters in parchment under his privy seal to the Mayor of Chester, charging that the citizens should not be pressed unto the war, but remain within the city for the defence thereof.  He also, by letters patent, discharged the city from being a sanctuary for malefactors, which was by proclamation removed to Stafford.  In the 32nd year of the same reign, the city obtainedthe privilege of returning two burgesses as its representatives in the English parliament.

The important changes effected in the municipal corporations of England and Wales in 1835 render it unnecessary to enter further into the various charters granted to the city of Chester.  By that Act, the local government was vested in town councillors, elected by the burgesses, and who serve for a term of three years.  Chester is divided into five wards for the election of the council; each ward elects six councillors, two of whom retire from office annually.  The councillors elect ten aldermen, who hold their office for six years; and any member of the council is eligible to the office of mayor.

The following is a list of those who have served the office of mayor of Chester:—

1251 Sir Walter Lynnett, Knt.

1677 William Ince, Esq.

1696 Peter Bennet, Esq.

1700 Hugh Starkie, Esq.

1702 William, Earl of Derby.

1704 Edward Partington, Esq.

1705 Edward Puleston, Esq.

1708 James Mainwaring, Esq.

1709 William Allen, Esq.

1710 Thomas Partington, Esq.

1711 John Minshull, Esq.

1712 John Thomason, Esq.

1714 Francis Sayer, Esq.

1715 John Stringer, Esq.

1715 Sir Richd. Grosvenor, Bart.

1716 Henry Bennett, Esq.

1717 John Hodgson, Esq.

1718 Alexander Denton, Esq.

1719 Randle Bingley, Esq.

1720 Thomas Edwards, Esq.

1725 John Parker, Esq.

1729 Thomas Brock, Esq.

1731 Trafford Massie, Esq.

1733 Peter Ellamies, Esq.

1734 Roger Massie, Esq.

1736 W. W. Wynn, Esq.

1737 Sir Robt. Grosvenor, Bart.

1738 Nathanael Wright, Esq.

1743 Thomas Davies, Esq.

1744 Thomas Maddock, Esq.

1745 Henry Ridley, Esq.

1746 Edward Yearsley, Esq.

1747 William Edwards, Esq.

1748 Edward Griffith, Esq.

1750 John Hallwood, Esq.

1754 Wm. Cooper, Esq., M.D.

1757 Richard Richardson, Esq.

1758 Thomas Grosvenor, Esq.

1759 Thos. Cholmondeley, Esq.

1760 Thomas Cotgreave, Esq.

1761 Holme Burrows, Esq.

1763 Edward Burrows, Esq.

1764 George French, Esq.

1765 Sir W. W. Wynn, Bart.

1769 Gabriel Smith, Esq.

1773 Panton Ellamies, Esq.

1779 Thomas Amery, Esq.

1781 Henry Higg, Esq.

1783 John Hallwood, Esq.

1784 William Harrison, Esq.

1787 Sir Richd. Grosvenor, Bart.

1795 Richard Ollerhead, Esq.

1803 Edmund Bushell, Esq.

1807 Robert, Earl Grosvenor.

1809 Thomas Evans, Esq.

1810 Thomas Grosvenor, Esq.

1811 Robert Bowers, Esq.

1813 Sir W. W. Wynn, Bart.

1814 John Bedward, Esq.

1815 Sir J. Cotgreave, Knt.

1816 Thomas Francis, Esq.

1817 Henry Bowers, Esq.

1818 Thomas Bradford, Esq.

1819 John Williamson, Esq.

1820 William Seller, Esq.

1821 John S. Rogers, Esq.

1822 William Massey, Esq.

1823 Robert Morris, Esq.

1824 George Harrison, Esq.

1825 John Fletcher, Esq.

1826 John Larden, Esq.

1827 Thomas Francis, Esq.

1827 Henry Bowers, Esq.

1828 Robert Morris, Esq.

1829 William Moss, Esq.

1830 Titus Chaloner, Esq.

1831 Richard Buckley, Esq.

1831 George Harrison, Esq.

1832 John Fletcher, Esq.

1833 George Harrison, Esq.

1834 The same.

1835 The same.

1836 William Cross, Esq.

1837 Thomas Dixon, Esq.

1838 Ed. Samuel Walker, Esq.

1839 John Uniacke, Esq.

1840 The same.

1841 William Wardell, Esq.

1842 William Brown, Esq.

1843 Wm. Henry Brown, Esq.

1844 Henry Kelsall, Esq.

1845 Charles Potts, Esq.

1846 Edward Tilston, Esq.

1847 R. P. Jones, Esq., M.D.

1848 The same.

1849 Sir E. S. Walker, Knt.

1850 John Williams, Esq.

1851 The same.

1852 P. S. Humberston, Esq.

1853 Henry Brown.  Esq., who, dying during his mayoralty, Dr. R. P. Jones was appointed to the office for the unexpired period.

1854 John Smith, Esq.

1855 W. H. Brown, Esq.

1856 Major French.

1857 Peter Eaton, Esq.

1858 P. S. Humberston, Esq.

Altars, Roman pavements, pigs of lead, coins, and other precious relics of former times, have been discovered in various places in the city and neighbourhood, some of them within a very recent period.  Now that the people are happily being taught to estimate local antiquities at their proper worth, and a spirit of inquiry is being invoked respecting them, it is to be hoped that any future discoveries that may be made will be carefully preserved.  There is no doubt that, through recklessness or ignorance, many links in the chain of our local history have been neglected and lost.

On a projecting rock in Handbridge, situate at the south end of the bridge, is a sculptured figure of Minerva, with her symbol, the owl.  Time has very much obliterated and defaced this ancient sculpture, called Edgar’s Cave, which is doubtless of Roman date.  Close to the figure is a great hole in the rock; and the field in which it is situated is known by the name of Edgar’s field to the present day.

In the year 1653 an altar, supposed to have been dedicated to Jupiter, was dug up in Foregate-street, and which is preserved among the Arundelian marbles at Oxford.  The back of it is plain: on the sides of it there are neatly sculptured a Patera, a cup which was used in their libations; and a Thuribulum, or censer for burning incense.  The inscription, when perfect, was—

I . O . M . TANAROT . ELVPIVS . GALERPRAESENS . GUNTAPRI . LEG . XX . V . VCOMMODO . ET . LATERANOCOSV . S . L . M.

I . O . M . TANAROT . ELVPIVS . GALERPRAESENS . GUNTAPRI . LEG . XX . V . VCOMMODO . ET . LATERANOCOSV . S . L . M.

which Leigh, in his ‘Natural History of Lancashire and Cheshire,’ explains thus—

JOVI OPTIMO MAXIMO TANAROTITUS ELUPIUS GALERIUSPRÆSENS GUBERNATORPRINCIBUS LEGIONIS VICESSIMÆ VICTRICIÆ VALERIÆCOMMODO ET LATERANO CONSULIBUS,VOTUM SOLVIT LUBENS MERITO.

JOVI OPTIMO MAXIMO TANAROTITUS ELUPIUS GALERIUSPRÆSENS GUBERNATORPRINCIBUS LEGIONIS VICESSIMÆ VICTRICIÆ VALERIÆCOMMODO ET LATERANO CONSULIBUS,VOTUM SOLVIT LUBENS MERITO.

In the year 1693, on the occasion of digging a place for a cellar in Eastgate-street, an altar was found buried amongst a great quantity of ashes, horns, and bones of several animals.  On the back of the altar is represented a curtain with a festoon, over which is a globe surrounded with palm branches.  On one side is a vase with two handles, from which issue acanthus leaves, supporting a basket of fruit; on the other side is a Genius with a Cornucopia in his left hand, and an altar on his right: on the top of the altar is a well sculptured human face within the Thuribulum.

This altar was found with the inscription downwards, and near it were two medals, one of Vespasian, the other is assigned to Constantius Chlorus, son-in-law of Maximian.  The inscription, with restorations, runs thus:—

PRO . SAL . DOMINORUM . NN . INVICTISSIMORVMAVGG . GENIO . LOCIFLAVIVS . LONGVSTRIB . MIL . LEG . XX . VVLONGINVS . FILEIVS . DOMOSAMOSATAV . S

PRO . SAL . DOMINORUM . NN . INVICTISSIMORVMAVGG . GENIO . LOCIFLAVIVS . LONGVSTRIB . MIL . LEG . XX . VVLONGINVS . FILEIVS . DOMOSAMOSATAV . S

Mr. Roach Smith says, “The persons who erected this altar were of Samosata, a town of Syria, celebrated as the birth-place of Lucian.”

In 1779 an altar was found in Watergate-street, which is still preserved in the grounds of Oulton Park, the seat of Sir Philip de Malpas Grey Egerton, Bart, M.P.: at the sides are the rod of Esculapius, the Cornucopiæ and rudder, a patera, urn, sacrificial knife, and other instruments.  The inscription, with a few restorations, is as follows:—

FORTVNAE . REDVCIESCVLAP . ET . SALVTI . EIVSLIBERT . ET . FAMILIACAII . PONTII . T . F . CAL . MAMILIANIRVFI . ANTISTIANI . FVNINSVLANIVETTONIANI . LEG . AVGD . DStone Altars

FORTVNAE . REDVCIESCVLAP . ET . SALVTI . EIVSLIBERT . ET . FAMILIACAII . PONTII . T . F . CAL . MAMILIANIRVFI . ANTISTIANI . FVNINSVLANIVETTONIANI . LEG . AVGD . D

Stone Altars

In the year 1821 a handsome altar was found by some labourers in a field called “The Daniels,” in Great Boughton, near Chester, between the Tarvin and Huntingdon roads: it is now preserved at Eaton Hall, the seat of the Marquis of Westminster.  It is of red sandstone; the mouldings are bold, but it has no other ornaments upon it except the scrolls which support the Thuribulum.  The inscription is the same on both sides, and is as follows:—

NYMPHISETFONTIBVSLEG XX.V V

NYMPHISETFONTIBVSLEG XX.V V

It has been supposed that the reason why this altar was erected on that particular spot, was because of the pure water which springs on that side of the town: the old Abbot’s well is in that quarter, whence water was formerly conveyed by pipes to some of the monasteries in Chester.

In 1729, in digging a cellar in Watergate-street, a stone was found with an inscription, of which the following fragment only remains:—

NVMINI . AVGALMAE . CETNVS . ACTOREX . VOTO . FACI

NVMINI . AVGALMAE . CETNVS . ACTOREX . VOTO . FACI

In the Chapter-house of Chester Cathedral, there is a red sandstone, 24 inches by 8 inches, found on the site of the Deanery, bearing this inscription:—

COH . I . E. OCRATIMAXIMINI . M . P

COH . I . E. OCRATIMAXIMINI . M . P

Mr. Roach Smith, an eminent authority in such matters, says that this inscription is to be ascribed to the century of Ocratius Maximus, of the first Cohort of the 20th Legion: it has evidently been a facing stone, probably in the city wall; it resembles in character the centurial commemorations on the stones in the great northern wall, and, like them, apparently refers to the completion of a certain quantity of building.

In the year 1738, in digging the foundation of a house in the market-place, a fragment of a slate stone was found, on which was cut in bas-relief, the figure of a Retiarius armed with his trident and net, and a considerable part of the shield of the Secutor.  The Secutores and the Retiarii were gladiators, distinguished by their armour and manner of fighting.  They bore in their left hand atrident, and in the right a net, with which the combatant attempted to entangle his adversary, by throwing it over his head, and suddenly drawing it together, and then with his trident he usually slew him.

Horsley describes a small statue of stone found near the Dee, supposed to be either Atys or Mithras.  It had a Phrygian bonnet, a mantle on the shoulders, a short vest on the body, and a declining torch in the hands.

On pulling down the old Eastgate in 1768, some portions of the original Roman structure were discovered, consisting of four arches, two in a line, and fifteen feet distant from each other; between the two arches fronting the east was a statue of the god Mars, holding in his right hand a spear handle, and his left resting on a shield.  This was cut in one large stone, of about a half ton weight.  There was also found a piece of rude sculpture about two feet in height, representing a Roman soldier.

In the year 1800 a Roman Ring, with an onyx stone in the centre, was found by some workmen when digging in a garden in Upper Northgate-street, and is now in the possession of R. J. Hastings, Esq., of Chester.

In 1803 part of a mosaic pavement, about five feet square, was discovered about six feet below the surface of the earth, on digging a cellar in what was then known by the name of the Nun’s Garden, near the Castle.

In 1813 in sinking the foundation of a cellar at Netherleigh House, a short distance from Chester, a considerable number of large vases of red clay were discovered; they were regularly arranged in vaults, each vault containing four or six vases.  Some of these were filled with calcined bones and small lumps of white clay.  One of the vases was secured in a perfect state, but the others in most part were destroyed, through the carelessness of the workmen.  A demi-figure, habited in a sacerdotal costume, was found at the same time.

In 1814 a tesselated pavement was discovered near the gateway of the Castle, in making the alterations there, part of which was destroyed, and the remainder covered up again.

In April, 1850, whilst excavating for a drain on the premises belonging to Mr. Wynne, carpenter, on the east side of Bridge-street, adjoining the Feathers-lane, a portion of a tile flooring, of mediæval construction, was discovered, in a remarkably good state of preservation.  This floor was made the subject of a lecture byMr. Harrison, architect, which is embodied in the reports published by the Chester Archæological Society.  Large square Roman tiles of red clay are frequently found in removing old buildings, and breaking up the pavements, in Chester.  Many of these are stamped with the inscription of the 20th Legion,LEG. XX. VV., and others are marked,LEG. VV. Œ.

These tiles were manufactured by the soldiers of the Legion, who were accomplished masons, being trained to use the pickaxe, spade, and trowel, as well as military arms.  In times of peace they were employed in building houses and public edifices, constructing roads, and tilling the fields.  To them “we are indebted for nearly all the inscriptions discovered in this country, which abound in the districts where they were regularly quartered, or employed on public works, and are comparatively scarce in other localities.”

A great number of coins have been found at various times within the walls of Chester, of Vespasian, Trajan, Hadrian, Fl. Val. Constantius, and other Roman emperors, some in brass and others in silver.  A very fine gold coin of Faustina the elder, wife of Antonius Pius, was found a few years ago, near the Castle; and in 1826 a very beautiful gold coin was dug up in a field at the east end of Captain Wrench’s house, which is in the possession of Captain Wrench.  On the obverse is the head of Nero, with his title,NERO CESAR AVGVSTVS, and on the reverse is a figure in a sitting posture, and the legendSALVS.

Whilst excavating a drain in Grosvenor-street, in 1828, several coins were found, some of which were in very good preservation, especially one of Trajan and another of Geta.  A lamp made of lead, and an ivory stylus, were also dug up at the same time.  In the same year was found, near the new church of St. Bridget, a small altar, without any inscription to assist the antiquarian in ascertaining anything respecting its dedication.  Within the space of a few inches from the altar was found a brass medal, on which the figure of the god Neptune is clearly delineated, with his trident, and a ship with her sails.  The legend on it isNEPTVNVS; on the reverse is Hercules with his club, and a female figure by his side, and around is the inscriptionHERCVLES ET PALLAS.

A short time ago a small votive altar was found by W. Ayrton, Esq., at Boughton, near to the spot where the altar, previously described as dedicated to the Nymphs, was discovered.

The inscription has been interpreted thus:—

GENO. AVERNI. IVL. QVINTILIANVS.Julius Quintilianus to the Genius of Avernus.

GENO. AVERNI. IVL. QVINTILIANVS.Julius Quintilianus to the Genius of Avernus.

Examples of dedication to genii are very numerous; the belief that they presided over the welfare of cities, families, and individuals, was part of the religious system of the Romans.  It was generally believed that every individual had two genii, the one good, the other bad.  With reference to the particular inscription to the genius Avernus, Mr. Roach Smith says, “that he finds no other mention: but the locality in which the altar was found confirms the literal interpretation that the genius of the well known lake in Carpania is here to be understood as addressed by Julius Quintilianus.  The waters of the lake were much used by the Romans in magical rites, as the classical reader will be reminded by the line in Virgil’s description of the incantation scene, preparatory to Dido’s death:—

“‘Sparserat et latices simulatos fontis Averni.’”

“‘Sparserat et latices simulatos fontis Averni.’”

A short time ago there was found in Common Hall-street, imbedded in a thick wall several feet under ground, a singular block or pig of lead.

Unfortunately the inscription has only been partially preserved, inasmuch as it presents a different reading from others which have been discovered, and which Camden mentions as being very general in Cheshire; but those which he records as having come under his notice had inscribed on them:—

IMP . DOMIT . AVG . GER . DE . CEANG.

IMP . DOMIT . AVG . GER . DE . CEANG.

These pigs of lead appear to have been paid as tribute by the Britons to their Roman masters, “the harsh exaction of which was one of the causes of the insurrection.”

A great quantity of the Red Samian, and other kinds of pottery, have been discovered within the walls of Chester, which are supposed to have been of foreign origin.  The names of the potters were:—

HIVNV.—SEV. . . .—BELINOIM.—ALBINVS.—BITVRIX.—ATILLVS.—VABIVS . F.—I | OFFIC.—CRESI . M.—PVONI . M.—E S CV S I . M.

HIVNV.—SEV. . . .—BELINOIM.—ALBINVS.—BITVRIX.—ATILLVS.—VABIVS . F.—I | OFFIC.—CRESI . M.—PVONI . M.—E S CV S I . M.

The following recent discoveries we extract from the First Report of the Chester Architectural, Archæological, and Historic Society, incorporated in a most able and interesting paper by C. Roach Smith, Esq.

Weaver-street.—In excavating for sewers was found, at the depthof seven feet, a raised foot-path, edged with curb-stones, and a regular paved road, of marble stones set in sand; four feet above this, a layer of charcoal; at ten or eleven feet deep, a quantity of Roman tile.

Common Hall-street.—Up the centre, a row of foundations formed of concrete (broken marble stones in hard mortar), about nine feet apart, all in a line, and about ten feet deep, presenting the appearance of having supported columns.  A large square block of stone, four feet two inches square, and sixteen inches deep, without lewis holes, on a bed of concrete.  A portion of a column of very debased classical form, about two feet in diameter; at the top is a hole, four inches and a half square, and the same deep, and a similar hole at the bottom; the square part seems never to have been smoothly dressed; the workmen said it was fast to the grouted concrete, at the depth of ten feet; mouldings, broken tiles, and pottery, coins of Pius, Tetricus, &c.; a quantity of animals’ bones, a stag’s skull, with the horns sawn off, and a wild boar’s tusk.  In the adjoining street, a moulded block of cornice, eight inches thick, on the under side of which is a rude inscription; imbedded in a thick wall, at the same place, a pig of lead; a capital of a pillar.  The tiles are of various forms, some overlapping one another, some with a kind of pattern or letters, others with marks of animals’ feet.  One perfect, twenty-one inches by thirteen, of singular form.  Also, what appears to have been a portion of a gable end.

In December, 1850, whilst fresh drains were being made, an old Roman vase was found in a yard belonging to Mr. Parkinson, plumber, in Northgate-street, between the Abbey-square and the Abbey Green.  The labourer who was employed in the drain in that neighbourhood unhappily shattered this vase in pieces.  The fragments, however, were collected together with great care, and re-united by Mr. Parkinson, in whose possession it now remains.  There were found with it some portions of annular brass money, much corroded.

Near to the Feathers Hotel, in Bridge-street, in a cellar now occupied as an earthenware shop, are the remains of the Roman hypocaust and sweating bath, the use of which appears to have been very general amongst the Romans, and regarded by them as one of their chief luxuries.  From the details which have been handed down to us by ancient historians, respecting these curious erections, we learn that they were not only constructed so as to secure the comfort and convenience of the bathers to the fullestextent, but were often built in the most magnificent style of architecture.  The one in Bridge-street, which circumstances have happily spared, is in a tolerably perfect state.  It is fifteen feet long, and eight wide, and six feet seven inches deep.  There is an adjoining chamber, orpræfurnium, of the same dimensions.  The Hypocaust is supported by twenty-eight square pillars, two feet eight inches high, and one foot square at the top and bottom.  Over these pillars are placed bricks, eighteen inches square, and three inches thick, which support others two feet square, perforated with small holes, about six inches asunder, for the purpose of conveying the heat upwards.  Immediately above this uppermost layer of bricks is a terrace floor, composed of several layers of lime, pounded bricks, &c., in different proportions and degrees of fineness.  The room above is the Sudatorium, or Sweating Room, which received the hot air from the Hypocaust below.  Around the walls were benches, rising one above another, on which the bathers sat, until they burst out into a free perspiration; after which they were scraped with a bronze instrument called aStrigil—thin and flexible, like a hoop—by which all impurities were removed from the skin; they were thenshampooed, rubbed down with towels (Lintea), and their bodies anointed with oil, by an attendant calledAliptes, after which they returned to theTepidarium, where they attired themselves, and cooled gradually before returning to the open air.

In 1779, another Hypocaust, and the remains of several adjoining rooms of a Roman house, were discovered in digging the foundations of houses near the Watergate.  The pillars of this Hypocaust, the altar dedicated toFortuna Redux,Esculapius et Salus, and a few other antiquities, were found at the same time, and were removed to Oulton Park.

But small portions of the original Roman wall of Chester now exist, although undoubted vestiges of that ancient work are easily discernible.  The present wall, no doubt, stands on the original foundation.  The Roman pavement has been often discovered at the depth of a few feet below the modern road, in the principal streets, which, in all probability, run in the same direction as those of the Roman City.  During the last few years, many remarkable antiquities have been discovered in making excavations for new buildings; and among such remains, a fine Roman altar, bearing a Greek inscription, has excited great interest and speculation.

City Walls

TheChester walls are the only perfect specimen of this order of ancient fortification now to be met with in England.  There is nothing, perhaps, which impresses a stranger more forcibly, or sooner attracts his interest and curiosity, than these embattled memorials of the olden time.

In King’s ‘Vale Royal’ it is stated that they were first built by Marius, King of the Britons,A.D.73.  Leland and Selden, both authors of credit, attribute to the Romans the foundation of Chester.  According to Geoffry of Monmouth, Higden, Bradshaw the Monk, and Stowe, it is of an origin more ancient than Rome itself, and was only re-edified by the legionaries; but, in support of their assertions, the aforesaid writers, all of whom delight in the marvellous, give no other authority save vague tradition.  On the other hand, the Walls of Chester, at this hour, bear witness to the truth of Leland and Selden’s account of their origin.

They are built of soft freestone, and command extensive and beautiful prospects.  The view from the Northgate, with the Welsh Hills in the distance, is universally admired.  The Walls are a mile and three-quarters and one hundred and twenty-one yards in circumference, and are kept in repair by the Corporation.

We commence our perambulation at a flight of steps on the North side of the Eastgate.  Proceeding to the right a short distance, the venerable Cathedral arrests our attention.

At the end of Abbey-street is a small archway or passage through the Walls, leading to the Kale-yards, or cabbage gardens, which formerly belonged to the Abbot and Convent of St. Werburgh.  This opening was permitted to be made for their convenience, in the reign of Edward I., to prevent the necessity of bringing their vegetables by a circuitous road through the Eastgate.

A few paces farther on was a quadrangular abutment, on which formerly stood a tower calledThe Sadlers’ Tower, from the Company of Sadlers holding their meetings there.  The tower wastaken down in 1780; and the abutment, which marked the place where it stood, was taken down, in 1828.

The elevated tower on the Canal bank belongs to the extensive Shot and White Lead Manufactory of Messrs. Walker, Parker, and Co., and forms a prominent object in the different approaches to the City.

The lofty tower which stands at the angle is called

which was formerly used by some of the companies of the city, whose arms were placed upon it, as a chamber for business.  Of these thePhœnix, the crest of the Painters’ and Stationers’ Company, which was put up in 1613, now only remains.

From the summit of this tower, King Charles I. had the mortification to see his army, under the generalship of Sir Marmaduke Langdale, defeated by the Parliamentary forces, which were led by General Pointz, at the battle of Rowton Moor, on the 27th September, 1645.  From its elevation and command of view over the township of Newton, it was formerly calledNewton’s Tower.  Linked as it is with that eventful battle during one of the most significant epochs of our national history, it is not surprising that it is always regarded with intense curiosity, as a suggestive memorial of most interesting occurrences.  The mind is involuntarily carried back to the period when our country was involved in the discord, strife, and bloodshed of civil war; and, perhaps, as involuntarily reflects on the genial and happy change which the progress of knowledge, freedom, and religion has accomplished in the minds and institutions of the people.  We can now occupy the very spot on which the hapless monarch beheld the discomfiture of his hopes and power; but can gaze upon a prospect very different from that which greeted his vision, and with emotions more grateful than those which then distracted the monarch’s breast.  His Majesty remained that night in Chester, and on the following day marched with 500 horse into Wales.

Beneath the walls here, deeply cut in the solid rock, is the Ellesmere and Chester Canal.

Between the Eastgate and Phœnix Tower the remains of the Roman Walls are conspicuous in the lower courses.  At the distance of about seven feet from the top of the parapet, the Roman portion is terminated by a cornice, which extends in broken lengths for at least 100 yards.

King Charles’ Tower, City Walls, Chester

In the time of the great Rebellion, a ditch surrounded the Walls, from the Eastgate to the Water Tower.  The view which is obtained from the elevation of this part of the Walls is very extensive and beautiful.  As you approach the North from the Eastgate, the ranges of Peckforton Hills, Beeston Castle, and the Forest of Delamere, form the background of the landscape, marked on the foreground with Waverton and Christleton churches; and, still nearer, the commodious Railway Station.

Next we arrive at

The ancient gate, over which the gaol was situated, and where criminals were formerly executed, was taken down in 1808, and the prisoners removed to a more commodious building on the south side of the infirmary.

The present gate is a Doric structure, forming a capacious elliptic arch of white stone, divided from two smaller ones at the sides by two pillars.  It was erected at the expense of the late Marquis of Westminster.  The North side bears this inscription—

PORTAM SEPTENTRIONALEM SVBSTRVCTAMA ROMANIS VETVSTATE JAM DILAPSAMIMPENSIS SVIS AB INTEGRO RESTITVENDAMCVRAVIT ROBERTVS COMES GROSVENOR.A. R. GEORGII TERTII LI.

PORTAM SEPTENTRIONALEM SVBSTRVCTAMA ROMANIS VETVSTATE JAM DILAPSAMIMPENSIS SVIS AB INTEGRO RESTITVENDAMCVRAVIT ROBERTVS COMES GROSVENOR.A. R. GEORGII TERTII LI.

On the South side is the following:—

INCHOTA GVLIELMO NEWELL ARM. MAI.MDCCCVIII.PERFECTA THOMA GROSVENOR ARM. MAI.MDCCCX.THOMA HARRISON ABCHITECTO.

INCHOTA GVLIELMO NEWELL ARM. MAI.MDCCCVIII.PERFECTA THOMA GROSVENOR ARM. MAI.MDCCCX.THOMA HARRISON ABCHITECTO.

The summit of this gate commands a most extensive and delightful prospect.  On each side of the gate is a commodious flight of steps, by which the passenger may descend into Northgate-street.

Near the gate, and on the left hand of Upper Northgate-street, stands the Blue-coat Hospital, which was founded by subscription in 1700, at the suggestion of Bishop Stratford.  The greater part of the present structure was built in 1717, partly at the expense of the Corporation and partly by benefactions.  Thirty-two boys are boarded, clothed, and educated, from the age of twelve to fourteen.  There are also sixty probationary day scholars, who succeed to the vacancies of the former.  They are well educated in the various branches of useful knowledge, and at the age of fourteen are provided with respectable situations.

The chapel, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, called Little St. John’s, occupies the south wing of this building; it was formerly an hospital, or sanctuary, and endowed with great privileges.  It is extra-parochial, and a perpetual curacy is in the gift of the Corporation.  The Rev. William Clarke is the present curate.  The hospital is of great antiquity, having been founded by Randal, Earl of Chester, for a master, three chaplains, and thirteen citizens of Chester, being either “poor or sillie, or poor or feeble persons.”  The mastership was granted in the ninth year of Edward Second to the prior of Birkenhead.

The chapel and hospital being destroyed during the civil wars, were rebuilt by Colonel Roger Whitley, to whom King Charles Second granted the hospital estate for his life and twenty years after.  When the city charter was renewed in 1686, the reversions were granted to the mayor and citizens for ever, as trustees for the hospital.  The Corporation obtained possession in 1703, and have since exercised the right of presentation.  In the time of King Henry VIII. it consisted of a chaplain and six poor brethren; and had lands and profits to the amount of £28 10s. 4d.  In later days there were in the Chapel-yard six almshouses for widows, who were each allowed £1 6s. 8d. a year and some perquisites.  In 1801, Alderman Crewe bequeathed £30 per annum to be divided amongst them in equal proportions.  Under an amended scheme, by order of the Court of Chancery, in 1852, the almshouses were rebuilt, and provision is now made for thirteen “poor and impotent persons of both sexes,” to each of whom the sum of £26 a year, by weekly payments of 10s., is given.  They have free occupation of the houses, and £30 per annum.  Alderman Crewe’s legacy is expended for their benefit in coals and other articles of domestic comfort.

Proceeding on our circuit, we next reach a curious square building calledMorgan’s Mount, a platform on the right, accessible by a flight of steps, underneath which is a sort of chamber, apparently one of the stations for a sentinel.  From the summit we have a wide-spreading and enchanting prospect, exhibiting the windings of the Dee to its estuary; Flint Castle; the Jubilee Column, on Moel Fammau; the Lighthouse, at the point of Ayr; the beautiful range of the Clwyddian hills; and the church and castle of Hawarden.  On the right, a very excellent view is presented of the

which was erected from a design and under the superintendence of Messrs. J. C. and G. Buckler, of London, at an estimated cost of £10,000, raised by public subscription, assisted by a grant from Government, and was completed in September, 1842.  The institution is under the presidency of the Lord Bishop of the diocese, and has the sanction of the Deans and Chapters of Chester and Manchester.  The object it seeks to promote is, the supply of the parochial schools of the Diocese of Chester with masters well qualified by a sound religious and scientific training, for the discharge of their important duties.  Hitherto, it has nobly sustained its purpose, and, by regularly sending forth men whose minds have been brought under thorough discipline, and well furnished with general knowledge and science, is doing very much towards the elevation of parochial education in the diocese.  The college is under the able direction of the Rev. Arthur Rigg, M.A., of Christ’s College, Cambridge.  A handsome chapel is attached to the college.

In the Minutes of the Committee of Council on Education for 1850, there are the following remarks, by the Rev. Henry Moseley, upon the Chester Training College:—

“I have to bear the same testimony as heretofore to the excellent discipline of the Institution; to the great order that pervades it; and to the judicious arrangements made in respect to the industrial training of the students, the industry, cheerfulness, and activity with which these labours are pursued, in the intervals of study, is most pleasing to contemplate.  I know no other training school which, in respect to these things, appears to me superior to this; and I attach to them, in a moral point of view, the first importance.  Nor do I know any other in which the buildings appear to me better adapted to the use of a training school, or in which those minor arrangements, on which the domestic comfort of the inmates and the good order of the household depend, are more carefully observed.”

“I have to bear the same testimony as heretofore to the excellent discipline of the Institution; to the great order that pervades it; and to the judicious arrangements made in respect to the industrial training of the students, the industry, cheerfulness, and activity with which these labours are pursued, in the intervals of study, is most pleasing to contemplate.  I know no other training school which, in respect to these things, appears to me superior to this; and I attach to them, in a moral point of view, the first importance.  Nor do I know any other in which the buildings appear to me better adapted to the use of a training school, or in which those minor arrangements, on which the domestic comfort of the inmates and the good order of the household depend, are more carefully observed.”

A few paces further on is an ancient tower, formerly called theGoblin’s Tower, but now known by the name ofPemberton’s Parlour.  Being in a ruinous condition, part of it was taken down in 1702, and the remainder renovated and repaired.  On the front was some excellent carved work in stone, and the names of the then Mayor (the Earl of Derby) and the other corporate officers of the year in which the repairs were made; but in consequence of the stone being of a soft and friable nature, and from other causes,both the inscription and the carved work are now almost obliterated.  The inscription, so far as it is legible, is as follows:—

“ * * * year of the glorious reign of Queen Anne divers wide breaches in these walls were rebuilt, and other decays therein were repaired; 2,000 yards of the pavement were new flagged or paved, and the whole repaired, regulated, and adorned, at the expense of £1,000 and upwards.  Thomas Hand, Esq., Mayor, 1701.  The Right Honourable William, Earl of Derby, Mayor, 1702, who died in his Mayoralty.”

“ * * * year of the glorious reign of Queen Anne divers wide breaches in these walls were rebuilt, and other decays therein were repaired; 2,000 yards of the pavement were new flagged or paved, and the whole repaired, regulated, and adorned, at the expense of £1,000 and upwards.  Thomas Hand, Esq., Mayor, 1701.  The Right Honourable William, Earl of Derby, Mayor, 1702, who died in his Mayoralty.”

On the left is a large field, anciently calledBarrow Field, which was used by the Roman soldiers for their military exercises; a vast number of bodies were buried here at one of the periods when the plague raged so severely in the city.

Water Tower & Museum, City Walls, Chester

Continuing our route westward, we next come to

an ancient fortress, erected for the purpose of repelling the approach of maritime foes, for it appears that formerly the river flowed under this part of the walls, so that vessels could sail close by the Tower.  At high tide, the whole of the land on which are now situated Crane-street and the neighbourhood, was covered with water.  At the south angle of the walls is an old square tower, anciently calledBonwaldesthorne’s Tower, from which is an embattled passage to the Water Tower, which was built in 1322, by contract for £100, by John Helpstone, a mason.  The dimensions were 24 yards in height, and 10½ yards in diameter.  It had openings for cannon and rings in the walls, to which ships were formerly moored.  This noble bulwark is suggestive of reflections of deep historic interest; for at the siege of Chester by the Republican army, this place was bombarded from the farm-house called Brewer’s Hall, on the opposite side of the river, but without success.  Many a gallant sentinel has here kept loyal watch against the approach of the enemy.  Happily, our age needs not these ancient fortifications for the warlike purpose to which they were originally devoted, and as an exhibition of the genius of the thirteenth and nineteenth centuries in happy contrast, this tower, built for war, is now occupied as a

and is devoted to the more beneficent object of science and general improvement.  Although the Museum is but of recent origin, the zeal and liberality of its supporters have already well furnished it with valuable relies, which will interest the antiquary, and othercuriosities of more modern date, which afford gratification to all.  The munificent liberality of William Wardell, Esq., a devoted friend to every enterprise which contemplates the social and intellectual advancement of the citizens, enables us to point out an attractive object in the

which is situated on the upper part of the tower.  We can promise the reader much amusement from this excellent instrument, which will furnish him with a most charming prospect of the diversified and lovely scenery of the district.  On the top of the tower is fixed a very good telescope by Dollond, which commands a most extensive and magnificent view.  If the day be favourable, and the atmosphere clear, we can stretch our gaze over a wide and truly grand range of objects, embracing the Great Ormshead at Llandudno in Carnarvonshire, the Wrekin in Shropshire, Moel Fammau and the Welsh Hills, towering aloft in their tranquil majesty.  Across the river is Brewer’s Hall, which we have mentioned, where Cromwell’s army erected a battery, for the purpose of destroying this tower, “but which had no great effect;” close by is the Railway Viaduct of forty-seven arches, and the Bridge crossing the Dee on cast-iron girders; the whole scene forming an exceedingly fine panorama.

At the foot of the flight of steps close by are the City Baths and Wash-houses.  The swimming bath is very capacious, and the necessary adjuncts most complete: there are also private and shower baths.

We now resume our walk; and, proceeding southwards from the Water Tower, on the left, is

a handsome brick building, founded by Dr. William Stratford, who bequeathed £300 to the charity.  It was opened on the 17th March, 1761.  It is capable of containing 100 beds, with commodious offices, and excellent accommodation for its respective officers.  The north part of the building is exclusively devoted to a fever ward.  This asylum for the afflicted is liberally supported by voluntary subscriptions.  Donors of twenty guineas, and subscribers of two guineas per annum, are governors, with the privilege of recommending two in-patients, and six out-door patients annually.

The inmates receive the most humane and skilful attention fromthe medical staff, which consists of Honorary Physicians and Surgeons, a Resident Surgeon, and an Assistant.

The number of patients admitted during the year 1857 were—

In-patients

547

Home-patients

1,120

Out-patients

2,393

The total number since the foundation of the institution,

230,075.

Of all the charitable institutions which do honour to the benevolence of the city, the Infirmary ranks the first in beneficial and important operations, and eminently deserves the sympathy and support of the public.

The next large building close by is

which also includes theHouse of Correction; both are under the superintendence of a committee of the Town Council.  The Gaol is in the western part of the building, with a good Doric entrance.  Over the front entrance, within the iron railing, the condemned criminals are executed.  The entrance to the House of Correction is at the east end, and is also of stone.  Each of these establishments has four courts, with cells and day rooms adjoining; and both are under the government of one gaoler and a male and female assistant.  There is a chapel common to both establishments.  The chaplain is appointed by the Corporation.  In consequence of the escapes the prisoners have succeeded in making from time to time, many improvements have been made in the internal arrangements of the prison, since it was first built, respecting the classification of prisoners and other matters; and the outworks of the building have received some important additions to ensure their greater security.  A little further on to the left is Stanley-place, a pleasant, open square of modern residences, leading to the Linen Hall Cheese Mart, which is well supplied at the fairs, held six times during the year, with Cheese from the dairies of Cheshire and North Wales.

We now ascend a handsome gateway called

the custody of which formerly belonged to the Earls of Derby, who held a valuable river jurisdiction, in executing the mayor’s warrants on the Dee, which formerly flowed close underneath.  It was purchased from the Derby family by the Corporation in 1778, taken down in 1788, and the present structure erected in 1789, the expense being defrayed out of the murage duties fund.  Itconsists of a wide and lofty arch, thrown over the Watergate-street, where a rapid descent adds much to its apparent elevation.  The west side bears the following inscription:—

IN THE XXIX. YEAR OF THE REIGN OF GEO. III. IN THEMAYORALTY OF JOHN HALLWOOD, AND JOHN LEIGH, ESQUIRES,THIS GATE WAS ERECTED.THOMAS COTGREAVE, EDWARD BURROWS, ESQUIRES, MURENGERS.

IN THE XXIX. YEAR OF THE REIGN OF GEO. III. IN THEMAYORALTY OF JOHN HALLWOOD, AND JOHN LEIGH, ESQUIRES,THIS GATE WAS ERECTED.

THOMAS COTGREAVE, EDWARD BURROWS, ESQUIRES, MURENGERS.

The view from the summit of this gate is very extensive, the objects immediately surrounding adding much to the pleasure of the scene.  On the opposite bank of the river Dee is Curzon Park, with its beautiful villa residences.  On the left is Grosvenor Bridge, with its far-famed noble arch, the widest arch of masonry in the world; a little beyond may be seen the grand lodge entrance to Eaton Park, erected at the cost of £14,000, thetoute ensembleforming a most charming picture.  The site of the present Crane-street and the parts adjacent were formerly under water.

Immediately below is the beautiful and spacious meadow called the

It contains about eighty-four statute acres of land, and is let by the Corporation as a pasture for cattle.  It was once the arena for ancient sports, and the city games and gymnastics were celebrated here, respecting which there are many curious records extant.  Of these, however, the horse races alone remain, which continue to be held in the first week of May, this Spring meeting being considered one of the most important and interesting illustrations of the national sports of the turf.  The course is little more than a mile, and affords the spectators the singular advantage of seeing the horses during the whole race.  The Earl of Chester’s Regiment of Yeomanry Cavalry assembles annually on the Roodeye for exercise.

The antiquity of the Chester races appears from the following extract from the collection of the late Mr. Nicholls of Chorlton, to whose researches the authors of the ‘History of Cheshire’ are much indebted.  The MS. from which this is extracted is entitled,

“Certayne collections of anciante times,concerning the anciante and famous cittie of Chester,collected by that Reverend Man of God,Mr. Robert Rogers,bachelor of divinitie,archdeacon of Chester,parsone of Gooseworth,and prebande in the Cathedral of Chester,being put in scattered notes,and by his son reduced into these chapters following:—

“Certayne collections of anciante times,concerning the anciante and famous cittie of Chester,collected by that Reverend Man of God,Mr. Robert Rogers,bachelor of divinitie,archdeacon of Chester,parsone of Gooseworth,and prebande in the Cathedral of Chester,being put in scattered notes,and by his son reduced into these chapters following:—

“OF ST. GEORGE’S RACE, OF LATE TIME INVENTED, AND WHEN ALTERED.

“InA.D.1609, Mr. William Lester, mercer, beinge mayor of Chester, one Mr. Robert Amerye, ironmonger, sometime sheriffe of Chester (A.D.1608), he, with the assent of the mayor and cittie, at his own coste chiefly, as I conceive chiefly, caused three silver cupps, of goode value, to be made, the which saide silver cupps were, upon St. George’s daye, for ever to be thus disposed: all gentlemen that would bringe their horses to the Rood-dee that daye, and there run, that horse which with speede did over-rune the reste, shoulde have the beste cuppe there presently delivered, and that horse which came seconde, next the firste, before the reste, had the seconde cuppe there also delivered; and for the thirde cuppe, it was to be run for at the ringe, by any gentleman that woulde rune for the same, upon the said Rood-dee, and upon St. George’s daye; being thus decreed, that every horse putt in soe much monie as made the value of the cupps or bells, and had the money, which horses did winne the same, and the use of the cupps, till that day twelve month, beinge in bonde to deliver in the cupps that daye; soe also for the cuppe for the ringe, which was yearly continued accordingly, until the yeare of our Lord 1623; John Brereton, inn-holder, beinge mayor of Chester, he altered the same after this manner, and caused the three cupps to be sould, and caused more money to be gathered and added, soe that the intereste thereof would make one faire silver cuppe, of the value of £8 as I suppose, it maye be more worth, and the race to be altered, viz., from beyonde the New Tower a great distance, and soe to rune five times from that place rownd about the Rood-dee, and he that overcame all the reste the last course, to have the cuppe freely for ever, then and there delivered, which is continued to this daye.  But here I must not omit the charge, and the solemnitie made the first of St. George’s daye; he had a poet, one Mr. Davies, who made speeches and poeticale verses, which were delivered at the high crosse, before the mayor and aldermen, with shews of his invention, which booke was imprinted and presented to that famous Prince Henry, eldest sonne to the blessed King James, of famous memorie.  Alsoe he caused a man to go upon the spire of St. Peter’s steeple in Chester, and by the fane, at the same tyme he sounded the drum, and displayed a banner upon the top of the same spire.  And this was the original of St. George’s race with the change thereof, as it is now used.”

“InA.D.1609, Mr. William Lester, mercer, beinge mayor of Chester, one Mr. Robert Amerye, ironmonger, sometime sheriffe of Chester (A.D.1608), he, with the assent of the mayor and cittie, at his own coste chiefly, as I conceive chiefly, caused three silver cupps, of goode value, to be made, the which saide silver cupps were, upon St. George’s daye, for ever to be thus disposed: all gentlemen that would bringe their horses to the Rood-dee that daye, and there run, that horse which with speede did over-rune the reste, shoulde have the beste cuppe there presently delivered, and that horse which came seconde, next the firste, before the reste, had the seconde cuppe there also delivered; and for the thirde cuppe, it was to be run for at the ringe, by any gentleman that woulde rune for the same, upon the said Rood-dee, and upon St. George’s daye; being thus decreed, that every horse putt in soe much monie as made the value of the cupps or bells, and had the money, which horses did winne the same, and the use of the cupps, till that day twelve month, beinge in bonde to deliver in the cupps that daye; soe also for the cuppe for the ringe, which was yearly continued accordingly, until the yeare of our Lord 1623; John Brereton, inn-holder, beinge mayor of Chester, he altered the same after this manner, and caused the three cupps to be sould, and caused more money to be gathered and added, soe that the intereste thereof would make one faire silver cuppe, of the value of £8 as I suppose, it maye be more worth, and the race to be altered, viz., from beyonde the New Tower a great distance, and soe to rune five times from that place rownd about the Rood-dee, and he that overcame all the reste the last course, to have the cuppe freely for ever, then and there delivered, which is continued to this daye.  But here I must not omit the charge, and the solemnitie made the first of St. George’s daye; he had a poet, one Mr. Davies, who made speeches and poeticale verses, which were delivered at the high crosse, before the mayor and aldermen, with shews of his invention, which booke was imprinted and presented to that famous Prince Henry, eldest sonne to the blessed King James, of famous memorie.  Alsoe he caused a man to go upon the spire of St. Peter’s steeple in Chester, and by the fane, at the same tyme he sounded the drum, and displayed a banner upon the top of the same spire.  And this was the original of St. George’s race with the change thereof, as it is now used.”

Chester Cemetery

On the west side of the Roodeye stands

built by the Corporation in 1757, as a refuge for age and indigence.  Warm and cold baths are established for the use of the inmates, whose comfort is most studiously consulted and provided for.  The pleasant row of houses on the right of the Roodeye is called Paradise-row, the site of which, as appears by an ancient map, was once in the bed of the river.

Soon after passing the Watergate, on the left, there is an opening to the city, called Smith’s-walk, at the bottom of which stands a large house, on the site of which formerly stood the Priory of White Friars or Carmelites.

On the north side of the open field on the left is a pleasant mansion, now the Rectory house of St. Bridget’s parish, but formerly the residence of the late Thomas Harrison, Esq., the celebrated architect, who has immortalized his genius in some of the finest works of which Chester can boast.  Near this spot once stood a convent of Benedictine nuns, dedicated to St. Mary.  It was suppressed, with the other lesser monasteries, in 1537, and no vestige of the ancient building now remains.

Before proceeding further on our circuit round the walls, we recommend the visitor to turn off to the right on the road, for the purpose of inspecting the

It is beautifully laid out, and arranged with admirable taste, and was rendered necessary by the overcrowded state of the parochial burial grounds.  Opposite the Cemetery gates is a suspension bridge, for foot passengers, to Curzon Park, whence we have a fine panoramic view of Chester.

We now retrace our steps to survey that interesting structure,

We have no precise authority whereby to ascertain the date of the foundation of Chester Castle.  Some think there is good reason to believe it to be of Roman origin, and of equal antiquity with the City Walls.  Others have fixed the date of its erectionA.D.1069, by William the Conqueror; but there are some considerations which seem to point to an earlier period than this.  It is stated by Camden to have beenrepairedby Hugh Lupus, and additional fortifications erected by the Norman Earls his successors.  It wascertainly the palace of the local monarchs, as well as their chief stronghold, and retained much of this mixed character until modern alterations were made.  Pennant describes the Castle, as it formerly stood, as being composed of two parts, an upper and a lower, each with a strong gate, defended by a round bastion on each side, with a ditch and draw-bridges.

In 1237, upon the death of John Scott, the last earl of the Norman line, the Commissioners of Henry III. seized Chester Castle for the King.

In 1265 James De Aldithley and Urian De St. Pierre, at the head of the citizens of Chester, besieged Luke De Taney, King’s Justice, in the Castle, which held out for ten weeks, when, upon receiving intelligence of the battle of Evesham, he surrendered.

Henry of Lancaster (afterwards Henry IV.), having taken up arms against Richard II. in 1399, mustered his army upon the bank of the Dee, under the walls of Chester, and Sir Piers Legh of Lyme, an adherent of Richard, was beheaded, and his head set upon the top of the highest tower in the Castle.  Shortly afterwards, the unfortunate Richard and the Earl of Salisbury were brought prisoners to Chester, mounted (says Hall) “upon two little nagges, not worth forty franks,” when the King was delivered “to the Duke of Gloucester’s sonne and the Earl of Arundell’s sonne, that loved him but a little, for he had put their fathers to death, who led him strait to the castell.”

In 1403 Henry Percy, surnamed Hotspur, visited Chester on his way to the fatal field of Shrewsbury, and caused proclamation to be made, that King Richard was yet alive, and a prisoner in Chester Castle, where he might be seen.

Eleanor, Duchess of Gloucester, wife of theGood Duke Humphrey, was confined for several months in Chester Castle, in 1447, previous to her removal to the Isle of Man, under a sentence of perpetual imprisonment, on a charge of “practising the King’s death.”

Here, in 1651, the Puritans, in their peculiar phraseology, “sought the Lord,” by trying and condemning to death the gallant and patriotic Earl of Derby, Sir Timothy Featherstonehaugh, and Captain Benbow.  According to Whitlocke, the Earl “attempted to escape, and was let down by a rope from the leads of his chamber; but some hearing a noise, made after him, and he was retaken upon Dee bank.”

The ancient structure was taken down at the close of the last century, and the present edifice erected on its site.

The principal entrance is through a handsome portico of Grecian Doric architecture.  It is 103 feet by 35, and consists of a centre and two wings connected by covered passages.  The ten fluted columns, which compose the peristyle in the centre, are each cut out of a single block of stone.  It is situated in the centre of a semicircular sunk fence or foss, 13 feet deep, and 390 feet in diameter, cased with hewn stone, surmounted with stone pedestals at equal distances, and the spaces filled with handsome iron rails, forming the north-west boundary of the esplanade.

On the western side of the esplanade is the Armoury, capable of containing between 30,000 and 40,000 stand of arms.  This is well worthy the inspection of strangers, who cannot fail to be struck with the excellent state in which the military stores are kept, and the tasteful arrangement of the arms.

Within the gate at the east end of this range of buildings is the guard-house, behind which is a venerable tower, calledJulius Agricola’s, orCæsar’s, which is still entire, and partly occupied as a magazine.  Within this tower is a curious chapel, mentioned in the tax-book of Henry VIII. as the chantry “infra Castrum Cestriæ” and yielding as its tenth 10s. 8d.  It is an upper chamber, about 19 feet by 16, and 16 feet in height.  The roof, which is vaulted and groined, is of stone.  On one side is a plain pointed recess in the wall, the back of which appears to have been ornamented with paintings, and was probably the altar.  James II. heard mass in this chapel.

The principal entrance to the Shire Hall is through a portico of twelve columns in double rows, 22 feet high, and 3 feet 1½ inches in diameter, each formed of a single stone.  The ceiling, roof, and covering, are also of stone.  The hall is of a semicircular form, measuring 80 feet by 50, including the judgment-seat, and 44 feet high, and is lighted from above.  The ceiling is a semi-dome, boldly caissoned with ventilators opening to the roof, in the shape of ornamental roses.  It is supported by a row of twelve Ionic columns, each composed of a single stone, from the bases of which there is a gradual descent by a flight of circular steps to the bar, which enables every one in the body of the court to have a perfect view of the judges, counsel, prisoners, and witnesses.  There is a subterraneous passage from the dock to the prison, which affords both facility and safety in the removal of the prisoners.

On the right of the entrance to the County Hall are the Grand Jury Room and the Prothonotary’s Offices.  In a small room on the ground floor is the model of the Grosvenor Bridge, and there are full length portraits of William III., Charles II., George I., George II., and Frederick, Prince of Wales.

On the left is the entrance to the County Gaol, which may vie in every respect with any other establishment of the sort in the kingdom.  It is built upon two levels.  On the east side of the range of buildings on the upper level is the Deputy-Governor’s house; adjoining are the day and sleeping rooms of the male debtors, with a large and commodious yard, commanding a view of the surrounding country; and in an extensive wing are the convicts’ cells, apartments for the female debtors and prisoners, with the matron’s house and hospital.  In the centre, projecting beyond the level, and of a semicircular form, so as to command a view of the court yards, &c., are the gaoler’s or governor’s apartments.  Underneath the governor’s apartments, and of the same form, is the chapel, which has lately been rebuilt and much improved.  It is situate between the upper and lower level, and so contrived as to receive the debtors and criminals into different compartments, from their respective court yards.  Divine service is performed in the chapel every morning during the week, and twice every Sunday.  The Rev. J. M. Kilner is the present chaplain, who is most indefatigable in the discharge of his duties.  On the lower level, under the jailor’s house, are the felons’ yards, five in number.  They are spacious and airy, and each contains a pump and trough.  A sort of area or passage surrounds these yards, and beyond that is the outside wall, built of immense blocks of stone, and conveying at once the idea of security and solidity.  Nothing can exceed the excellent discipline and general arrangement of the prisoners.  A large proportion of the prisoners are profitably employed, under the superintendence of a task-master.  They are chiefly engaged in calico, rug, and carpet weaving, shoe-making, and basket-making.  The greater part of the articles of clothing and bed furniture used within the walls are manufactured by them; and the store-room presents the appearance of a complete depository of useful articles for the prison, of almost every description.

There is also a commodious schoolroom, which is efficiently superintended.  Everything relating to the internal management of this prison is complete in each department, and reflects the highest credit on the governor, Mr. Dunstan.

Previous to the new erections, on the east side of the lower court stood the ancient Shire Hall, in which the courts of justice for the county used to be held.  It was a magnificent building, nearly 90 feet in length, and 45 in breadth; the height very lofty, and worthy the state apartment of the first Norman Earl, Hugh Lupus, who required a hall suitable to the greatness of his hospitality.  Adjoining to this hall was the Court of Exchequer, or Court of Chancery, of the county palatine of Chester.  It was the Parliament House of the little kings of the palatinate, and had neat gothic seats for the abbot and eight barons.

The east side of the esplanade is appropriated to Barracks, which contain excellent and spacious accommodations.  Behind the Barracks is the Provost, with an enclosed yard.  It is no longer employed for this purpose, having been, some time since, converted into an armoury for pensioners, military library and reading-room, &c.  This wing, and the opposite one on the west side of the esplanade, were built at the joint expense of the Crown and the County Palatine.

Proceeding through the gate at the east end, we come to


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