Drawing Materials and Instruments.

Drawing tools or instruments are contrived solely for mechanical drawing; aside from this use they are perfectly worthless, hence the quality of these special utensils is a matter of the first consideration to the earnest student.

There are several degrees of excellence to be found in the make-up of drawing instruments and materials; it may be remarked with truth that “any kind are good enough, and the best none too good,” i. e., a learner in this delightful art should not stop at the lack of goodness or the low grade existing in his “tools,” but rather do the best work possible with the means at hand.

However, in order that acceptable work may be accomplished, fairly good instruments should be procured. The advice of some one experienced in the use and care of draughting tools should be sought before purchasing. A drawing board, a single sheet of paper and a pencil is the simplest “outfit” to be thought of; to this small beginning may be added, soon afterwards, an inexpensive pair of compasses, a T-square and a couple of triangles; a vast range of work can be executed with these few tools.

Nothing else will be needed to do fine work except, perhaps, one or two pairs of better compasses and a few sweeps or means of drawing irregular curves; all these had best be purchased separately; for in buying a “box of instruments,” it may contain some articles which are not desired, or that are of a wrong size, or even duplicates of those already possessed.

Drawing tableFig. 138.

Fig. 138.

An outfit recommended by the author of “Reed’s Hand Book” is as follows.

Large compasses with movable leg.

A pair of dividers.

Bow pencil.

Bow pen.

Pencil leg for large compasses.

Pen leg for large compasses.

Drawing pen.

Louis Rouillon, B. S., Instructor of Drawing in Pratt Institute, New York, recommends the following:

Compasses, 51⁄2inches, with needle point; pen pencil and lengthening bar.

Drawing pen, 41⁄2inches.

T-square, 24-inch blade.

45-degree triangle, 9 inches.

30 and 60 degree triangle, 9 inches.

1 Scroll.

Dixon’s V. H. pencil.

12-inch boxwood scale, flat, graduated1⁄16inch the entire length.

Bottle of liquid India ink, four thumb-tacks, pen and ink eraser.

20 sheets drawing paper, 11 × 15 inches, and a drawing-board about 16 × 23 inches will also be necessary; students can usually make the board themselves for less money than it can be bought.

Note.—The purchasing of drawing tools is one of the most difficult points to settle that can present itself to a person about to buy a drawing outfit for the first time. Nothing can be so productive of distress to a person drawing as to have his tools getting out of order, joints one day too tight, next day too slack, points getting blunt or perhaps turning up altogether; if needle points, then the needles slip up, and drawing spoiled; in fact, the purchaser can be annoyed in numberless different ways.—W. H. Thorn.

Drawing setFig. 139.

Fig. 139.

Drawing boardFig. 140.

Fig. 140.

A drawing-board should be made of well seasoned pine of a convenient size, say 23 × 16, which will take half a sheet of imperial paper, leaving1⁄2-inch margin all around.

The working surface of the board—or its front side—should be perfectly smooth, but instead of being flat it should have a very slight camber, or rounding, breadthways, this latter feature in its construction being to prevent the possibility of a sheet of paper when stretched on its surface having any vacuity beneath it.

Thefour edgesof the board need not form an exact rectangle, as much valuable time is often wasted in the attempts to produce such a board; but it will answer every purpose of the draughtsman so long as the adjacent edges at the lower left-hand corner of it are at right angles, or square to each other.

An English authority recommends the use of two drawing-boards, 42 inches long and 30 inches wide, made of plain stuff, without cleets, 11⁄4inches thick—seasoned—with edges perfectly straight and at right angles to each other.With two boards, one may be used for sketching and drawing details and the other for the finished drawing.

The board should be3⁄4inch in thickness, and fitted at the back, at right angles to its longest side, with a couple of hardwood battens, about 2 inches wide and3⁄4inch thick; the use of these battens being to keep the board from casting or winding and to allow of its expansion or contraction through changes of temperature. This latter purpose, however, is only effected by attaching the battens to the back of the board in the following manner: ... At the middle of the length of each batten—which should be one inch less than the width of the board—a stout, well-fitted wood screw is firmly inserted into it, and made to penetrate the board for about1⁄2inch, the head of the screw being made flush with the surface of the batten; on either side of the central screw, two others, about 31⁄2inches apart, are passed through oblong holes in the battens, and screwed into the body of the board until their heads are flush with the central one; fitted in this way the board itself can expand or contract lengthwise or crosswise, while its surface is prevented from warping or bending.

Drawing boardFig. 141.

Fig. 141.

A further improvement in such a drawing board as above shown is made by cutting lengthwise along its ends a narrow groove and inserting an ebony or hardwood strip; this is cut or sawn apart at about every inch to admit of contraction; this strip serves as a guide to the stock of the drawing square, allowing an easy sliding movement.

To produce really good work in the shape of a mechanical drawing, one perfect straight edge only is required on a drawing board, and that the left one, which is always known as theworking-edge; but for the convenience of being able to draw a long line across the board at right angles to its lower edge, this edge is made truly square with that on the left side of the board.

The details for building these drawing boards are given, because they are easy to be made by one who understands the use of a few wood-working tools; while the boards themselves are difficult of transportation—in case of the change of residence of their owners—quite unlike the instruments which are to accompany them.

Fig. 141represents the board which has been described in the text, with provisions for the contraction and expansion; the very dark lines are intended to represent the ebony insertions—as described.Fig. 140represents a plain pine board with dovetailed battens.

Thumb-tacksFig. 142.

Fig. 142.

Fig. 142represents the common means used to attach or secure slightly or temporarily the drawing paper to the drawing board; these are called thumb-tacks, and are usually forced through the paper into the wood by the hand, whence they are easily detached. These are made to have as slight a projection as may be, so as not to interfere with the free movement of the tee-square.

For mechanical drawing the invariable practice is to secure the paper on which the drawing is to be made to the drawing board by pinning it; this is effected by various kinds ofdrawing pinsorthumb-tacks.

The best kind for this purpose have a head as thin as possible without cutting at its edges, slightly concave on the under side next the paper, and only so much convex on its upper side as will give it sufficient thickness to enable the pin to be secured to it; better use four or more small pins along the edge of a sheet of paper, than use one clumsy, badly made pin at each end.

TrestlesFig. 143.Fig. 144.

Fig. 143.Fig. 144.

Fig. 143.

Fig. 144.

Fig. 143 and fig. 144represent a pair of plain trestles or horses in common use for supporting large size drawing boards. This pattern is found frequently in the laying-out shop.Fig. 145 and fig. 146representadjustablehorses or trestles—these are designed, primarily, for office use. As will be seen by viewing the illustration, the upper part is supported by two hard-wood sliding pieces; these are provided with strong pins and numerous holes, and pass through the frame of the trestle, as shown, so that the upper portions can be arranged at any angle convenient to the draughtsman, as he lies over his work or stands by it.

TrestlesFig. 145.Fig. 146.

Fig. 145.Fig. 146.

Fig. 145.

Fig. 146.

Fig. 137is introduced to exhibit the paper attached to the drawing board with the thumb-tacks, and with the T-square and set-squares arranged to commence work; the paper should not extend to the edges of the board; three, four or more tacks may be used on each edge of the sheet of paper, instead of two, as shown in illustration.

Fig. 147.

A most convenient—and except for its extreme lightness, which is not good in a drawing stand—a most admirable device is shown infig. 138. The drawing table is simply a drawing board with folding legs; these are made from hard-wood, while the top is madeof soft, seasoned pine, with square corners; while the device is strong and well braced, it can be folded and easily carried about—all as shown in the illustration.

T-squareFig. 148.

Fig. 148.

This is an instrument in the form of a letter T, as shown in thefigures 149 and 150; the two parts are known asstockandblade; the horizontal part of the letter (T) is the stock, and the vertical part the blade—hence the name, T-square; to form the square, the two parts are joined together in such a way as to make them exactly at right angles to each other; the stock, which is applied to the working edge of the drawing board, being about one-third the length of the blade, and about three times its thickness.

T-squaresFigs. 149 and 150.

Figs. 149 and 150.

To be perfect in construction, a tee-square should be as light as is consistent with its necessary strength and stiffness of parts; it should be made of suitable material easily manufactured, put together, and repaired, and withal as truly correct as is possible to be made. Such a square is represented infig. 148; it has a taper blade, which is generally about double the width where secured to the stock as it is at the end.

T-squareFigs. 151 and 152.

Figs. 151 and 152.

The manner in which the stock is united to the blade determines its adaptability or otherwise to the use made of it; in some the stock is rectangular in section, and the blade mortised into it; in others the blade is dovetailed and let into the stock for the whole of its thickness.

In cases where many parallel lines have to be drawn, of lengths beyond the capabilities of ordinary set-squares, and in directions other than square with or parallel to the working edge of the drawing board it is convenient to have for use anadjustablebladed tee-square, or one whose blade can be set at any desired angle. The blade of such a square should be tapered as in illustration, but shaped at its wide end as shown, and having a stock wide enough to allow for the surface required in the washers of the fittings necessary to make the blade adjustable. These fittings, though requiring to be well made and neatly finished, are not expensive or difficult to make, as they consist merely of two washers, a square-necked bolt, and a fly nut.

The tee-square, as shown, has four parts: 1, blade; 2, fixed head; 3, shifting head; 4, swivel. The head is held firmly by the left hand to the left edge of the drawing board, and the blade serves as a straight-edge for horizontal lines that may extend the whole length of the paper. It can be used for either horizontal, or, by reversing to the bottom of the board, for vertical lines; and, by turning it over, so that the shifting head is against the edge of the drawing board insteadof the fixed head, lines at different angles may be drawn. The length of the blade should be the length of the drawing board; if it is shorter, inconvenience will be experienced when lines the whole length of the board are wanted.

Set-squares are invariably used in connection with the tee-square, as shown infig. 148. The illustrations below show several patterns of the device; by these, vertical lines, triangles, squares and hexagonal, octagonal and twelve-sided figures, diagonal section lines, etc., can be easily drawn. For ordinary purposes, a triangle or set-square with angles of 45° may be 4 inches long and the other 8 inches in length, but a six-inch set-square having angles 90°, 45° and 45°, and an eight-inch one having angles of 90°, 60° and 30°, will be found sufficient for all purposes; there are other triangles used specially for making letters.

TrianglesFig. 153.—Fig. 154.—Fig. 155.—Fig. 156.

Fig. 153.—Fig. 154.—Fig. 155.—Fig. 156.

In practice the triangles or set-squares are slid along the edge of the blade, and need not be any thicker than it.

Parallel ruleFig. 157.

Fig. 157.

This instrument is used to mark lines which are neither horizontal nor vertical (usually these are drawn by the square and set-square), and which are parallel to one another; by adjusting the edge of the parallel ruler to a line, it can be extended or opened out (orvice-versa closed), and the line or lines drawn will be parallel or equally distant from the base or first line it was set by. Seefig. 157.

Fig. 158is a parallel ruler, constructed with two rollers fixed on a rod so that they move the same distance, carrying the ruler parallel to the starting line.

RuleFig. 158.

Fig. 158.

Note.—It has been said that “a workman may be known by his tools,” but the statement must be taken with a good deal of allowance. Some workmen may possess a very fine set of tools and never use them, because they have not the ability or inclination to learn how; especially is this the case with drawing instruments.If all the fine sets of drawing instruments that are owned by workmen were put to frequent use the owners would find a marked improvement in their abilities in other lines as well as drawing; for it is a noticeable fact that when a person’s mind has been trained in a business that requires close calculation and a knowledge of materials, he is capable of showing good qualifications in other lines, and the more skilled he is in one the easier can he acquire skillfulness in another, if he applies the same amount of energy, thought and interest as he did to acquire skill in the first.

If all the fine sets of drawing instruments that are owned by workmen were put to frequent use the owners would find a marked improvement in their abilities in other lines as well as drawing; for it is a noticeable fact that when a person’s mind has been trained in a business that requires close calculation and a knowledge of materials, he is capable of showing good qualifications in other lines, and the more skilled he is in one the easier can he acquire skillfulness in another, if he applies the same amount of energy, thought and interest as he did to acquire skill in the first.

Fig. 159shows an improved section liner which can be adjusted to any angle, and will space the parallel lines at any desired regular distance.

Section linerFig. 159.

Fig. 159.

Irregular curves, or, as they are sometimes termed, sweeps, represented byfigs. 160-166, are used for curves that cannot be put in by the other instruments. They are very useful when elliptical or parabolic curves are desired, in preference to circles or arcs of a circle. They are much used in design and architectural drawing. They are made of thin hardwood or rubber, and sometimes of horn.

CurvesFigs. 160-166.

Figs. 160-166.

PencilsFig. 167.Fig. 168.

Fig. 167.Fig. 168.

Fig. 167.

Fig. 168.

Curves are irregular lines; a circle is a regular line. If a curve is to be passed through a number of predetermined points it should be first sketched in lightly, free-hand; a section of the scroll is then applied to the curve so as to embrace as many points as possible; only the central points of those thus embraced should be inked in; this process is continued until the desired curve is completed.

Curves are made of various material, pearwood, cardboard, xylonite, hard rubber, and a strip of soft lead is sometimes used, which may be easily adjusted to the curve required.

The curves generally used in mechanical drawing are shown onprevious page.

Fig. 208,page 134, is a logarithmicspiralcurve. It is mathematically constructed and contains every curve within the limit of its size.

An ellipse is a geometrical figure, and can be drawn as described ingeometrical problem 29,page 96; many drawing offices keep sets of hard rubber ellipses, to economize time constructing them.

CompassesFig. 169.Fig. 170.

Fig. 169.Fig. 170.

Fig. 169.

Fig. 170.

These are instruments for marking, drawing or writing, formed of graphite, colored chalk or materials of similar properties, and having a tapering end, inclosed, generally, in a cylinder of softwood.Fig. 167represents a ruling pencil; its point is a parallelogram or of a wedge shape. In ruling, the length view rests against the square; its shape gives considerable strength to the lead and allows the making of a very fine line.Fig. 168differs in the point of the pencil shown, as may be observed in the illustration.

A pencil that is hard is best for mechanical drawing; one that will retain a good point for someconsiderable time. Pencil lines should be made as light as possible; the presence of lead on the surface of the paper tends to prevent the ink passing to the paper, and in rubbing out pencil lines the ink is reduced in blackness, and the surface of paper is roughened, which is a disadvantage. As little erasing or rubbing out as possible should be done.

These instruments, while they appear alike, have a separate use: the dividers are used to space off distances and dimensions; especially are they necessary in reading drawings made to scale.Compassesare used for describing circles, curves, etc.,dividersare used for marking out spaces.

Two forms of the dividers are shown infigs. 169 and 170; the simplest, plainest form is shown infig. 169; these are used for rough spacings;fig. 170represents a pair of dividers fitted with an adjustable screw controlled by a steel spring in one leg; by this a very exact measurement can be made.Fig. 170is intended to exhibit what is called a “hair-spring divider.”

These dividers differ from the ordinary ones shown infigs. 169 and 170in that they are provided with four steel points, one pair of which being set to the full dimension will be reproduced by the other pair, but in a smaller, or reduced size.

Fig. 171are “bisecting” dividers, being proportional dividers, which, when open, one end measures double the distance of the other.

Fig. 172are proportional dividers; the points at one end are capable of being changed, to measure practically any desired proportion at the other end, by altering the position of the pivot where the legs cross one another. The lower connecting link is a micrometer adjustment, for minute measurements.

Fig. 173are proportional dividers which are marked for the proportions of lines and radii of circles, being provided with a rack movement for adjustment.

Fig. 174represents three-leg dividers, used for taking the position of three points; this instrument is very useful in finding the position of a point in a figure.

DividersFig. 171.—Fig. 172.—Fig. 173.—Fig. 174.

Fig. 171.—Fig. 172.—Fig. 173.—Fig. 174.

CompassesFig. 175.—Fig. 176.—Fig. 177.—Fig. 178.—Fig. 179.

Fig. 175.—Fig. 176.—Fig. 177.—Fig. 178.—Fig. 179.

Compasses consist of two pointed legs; they are instruments for describing circles or for—sometimes—measuring figures, in absence of dividers.Fig. 175represents compasses fitted as dividers.

Compasses should have jointed legs, which will allow the points to be placed at right angles to the paper, whatever the size of the circle to be drawn. Compasses should not be used for circles which are too large to allow the points to be thus placed; a lengthening bar is generally provided, which greatly increases the diameters of circles which may be drawn by this attachment; it is shown infig. 176.

One leg of the compasses is usually provided with a socket to which are fitted three points: a divider point,fig. 179; a pencil point,fig. 177; and a point,fig. 178, carrying a special pen for the inking of circles. Each of these points is generally provided with a joint, so that it may be placed at right angles to the paper.

The other leg should be jointed; it is often provided with a socket which receives two points, one a divider point, and the other carrying a needle point. Such an instrument may be used as dividers for spacing, or as compasses for penciling or inking circles.

The joint at the head of the compasses (seefig. 175) is the most important feature. It should hold the legs firmly in any position, so that in going over a circle several times only one line will result. It should allow the legs to move smoothly and evenly, and should be capable of adjustment.

CompassesFig. 180.—Fig. 181.—Fig. 182.—Fig. 183.—Fig. 184.

Fig. 180.—Fig. 181.—Fig. 182.—Fig. 183.—Fig. 184.

As shown infig. 174, one leg has a hinge or joint, and a needle point,which can be regulated by a thumb screw; the other leg has a socket or recess into which interchangeable parts can be inserted. The four figures to the right of the compasses show the parts which are provided with shanks or insertion pieces.Fig. 180andfig. 181represent compasses specially used for making small circles, and work too minute for the larger instruments described above.

To do work of this nature easily a pair of spring dividers are frequently used. This instrument has one point attached to a spring, which is regulated by a screw, so that very slight changes in the space may be made with ease.

Compasses specially used for putting in fine circles and dimensions are called “bows.” When a pen point it is a “bow pen,” with a pencil point a “bow pencil,” and if with needle point a “bow dividers.”Fig. 180is a “bow dividers”, this fitted with screw for fine adjustment in one leg,fig. 181, is called a “hair-spring bow dividers”; for small details, bows with steel spring legs without any joint are used; these are called “steel-spring bows.”

CompassesFig. 185.—Fig. 186.—Fig. 187.

Fig. 185.—Fig. 186.—Fig. 187.

These were originally developed from the common form of compasses, with a single spring leg; later, the demand for smaller sizes made changes necessary, and spring bows are now made symmetrical, both sides of the bow being made to “spring.”

Fig. 182are spring dividers.

Fig. 183is a spring pencil.

Fig. 184is a spring pen.

In these figures it will be seen that the two threads, a right and a left, are moved with one central thumbscrew; in thefigs. 185 to 187a single screw is used.

In choosing spring bows, care must be exercised to select a sufficiently strong, stiff spring, as the relation between spring pressure and thumbscrew is important.

Infig. 188is shown a set of beam compasses, together with a portion of the wooden rod or beam on which they are used.

Bem compassesFig. 188.

Fig. 188.

The latter, as will be seen by the section drawn to one side,A, is in the shape of a T. This form has considerable strength and rigidity. Beam compasses are provided with extra points for pencil or ink work, as shown.

While the general adjustment is effected by means of the clamp against the wood, minute variations are made by the screw,B, shifting one of the points, as shown in thefigure.

This instrument is quite delicate, and, when in good order, is very accurate. It should be used only for fine work on paper, and never for scribing on metal.

TrammelFig. 189.

Fig. 189.

A coarser instrument, and one especially designed for use upon metal, is shown infig. 189, and is called a trammel. There are various forms of this instrument, all being the same in principle. The engraving shows a form in common use. A heavier stick is used with it than with the beam compasses, and no other adjustment is provided than that which is afforded by clamping against the stick.

In theillustration, a carrier at the side is shown, in which a pencil may be placed. Some trammels are arranged in such a manner, that either of the points may be detached and a pencil substituted.

A trammel, by careful arrangement, can be made to describe very accurate curves, and hence can be used in place of the beam compasses in many instances. For all coarse work it is to be preferred to beam compasses.It is useful for all short sweeps upon sheets of metal, but for curves of a very long radius a strip of sheet iron or a piece of wire will be found of a more practical service than even this tool.

The length of rods for both beam compasses and tramels, up to certain limits, is determined by the nature of the work to be done. The extreme length is determined by the strength and rigidity of the rod itself. It is usually convenient to have two rods for each instrument, one about 11⁄2or 2 feet in length and the other considerably longer—as long as the strength of the material will admit.

Scales are proportioned rules or mathematical instruments of wood, metal, etc., on which are marked lines and figures for the purpose of measuring sizes and distances. It is usual to make scales in the proportion of parts of an inch equalling a foot; the most generally adopted scale for machine drawing is one and a half inches, equalling one foot; that is, twelve-eighths of an inch (each eighth of an inch representing one inch); there is no fixed rule in the choice of a scale, as they are varied according to the coarseness or fineness of the parts of the machine to be drawn and the space or surface of paper to be utilized.

When objects are of moderate proportions they may be represented full size; but when large, the drawings must be smaller. Standard scales for mechanical drawings are1⁄2,1⁄4,1⁄8and1⁄16full size. These scales are often written 6″ = 1 ft.; 3″ = 1 ft.; 11⁄2″ = 1 ft., and3⁄4″ = 1 ft.

ScaleFig. 190.

Fig. 190.

ScaleFig. 191.

Fig. 191.

Instead of selecting one of the scales named or one found upon the ordinary scales used by draughtsmen, drawings may be made to any scale whatever. Thus, if any object is to be represented in a certain space, a scale should be constructed which will cause the whole of the object to be shown.

Drawing to Scale.—The meaning of this is, that the drawing when done bears a definite proportion tothe full size of the particular part, or, in other words, is precisely the same as it would appear if viewed through a diminishing glass.

The two-foot rule shown infig. 192is the most useful instrument for the comparison of linear dimensions—it can be used as a scale of one-twelfth, or 1 inch equal to a foot, 12 inches = 12 feet, it being divided into portions or spaces, each of which is subdivided into halves, quarters, eighths and sixteenths; frequently in the latter class of two-foot rules there are graduations of scales, and it is then also called a draughting scale.

Fig. 190represents a flat scale, graded so that one inch represents a foot—1⁄12th size—etc., as shown.

Fig. 191represents a triangular scale (broken). The triangular scale should read on its different edges as follows: Three inches and 11⁄2″ to one foot, 1″ and1⁄2″ to one foot,3⁄4″ and3⁄8″ to one foot,1⁄4″ and1⁄8″ to one foot,3⁄16″ and3⁄32″ to one foot, and one edge read sixteenths the whole 12″ of its length.

Fig. 190shows such a scale broken. An explanation of the 1″ and1⁄2″ side will suffice for all. Where it is used as a scale of 1″ to one foot, each large space, as from 0 to 12 or 0 to 1, represents a foot, and is a foot at that scale. There being 12″ in one foot, the twelve long divisions at the left represent inches; each inch is divided into two equal parts, so from 0 to one division at the left of 9 is 91⁄2″ and so on. The 1″ and1⁄2″ scales being at opposite ends of the same edge, it is obvious that one foot on the 1″ scale is equal to two feet on the1⁄2″ scale, and conversely, one foot on the1⁄2″ scale is equal to six inches on the 1″ scale; and 1″ being equal to one foot, the total feet in length of scale will be 12; at1⁄2″ to 1 foot the total feet will be 24.

In working to regular scales, such as1⁄2,1⁄8, or1⁄16size, a good plan is to use a common rule, instead of a graduated scale. There is nothing more convenient for a mechanical draughtsman than to be able to readily resolve dimensions into various scales, and the use of a common rule for fractional scales trains the mind, so that computations come naturally, and after a time almost without effort.

The protractor shown infig. 193is an instrument for laying down and measuring angles on paper; it isused in connecting with a scale to define the inclination of one line to another.

Protractors have the degrees of a half circle marked upon them; as the whole circle contains 360 degrees, half of it will contain 180, one-quarter 90, etc. Hence, protractors showing 180° exhibit all that is needed. To protract means to extend, so this instrument is also useful in “extending” the lines of inclination at the circle.

ScaleFig. 192.

Fig. 192.

ProtractorFig. 193.

Fig. 193.

A special pen called a drawing-pen, and also special ink, are required to ink a drawing;figs. 194and195represent two sizes of drawing-pens—one being best adapted for fine work, and the other for coarse or heavy line work. The points, as will be observed in the illustration, are made of two steel blades which open and close as required for thickness of lines by a regulating screw.

PenFig. 194.

Fig. 194.

PenFig. 195.

Fig. 195.

A good drawing pen should be made of properly tempered steel, neither too soft nor hardened to brittleness. The nibs should be accurately set, both of the same length, and both equally firm when in contact with the drawing paper. The points should be so shaped that they are fine enough to admit of absolute control of the contact of the pen in starting and ending lines, but otherwise as broad and rounded as possible, in order to hold a convenient quantity of ink without dropping it. The lower (under) blade should be sufficiently firm to prevent the closing of the blades of the pen, when using the pen against a straightedge.

PenFig. 196.

Fig. 196.

Ink bottleFig. 197.

Fig. 197.

The spring of the pen, which separates the two blades, should be strong enough to hold the upperblade in its position, but not so strong that it would interfere with easy adjustment by the thumbscrew. The thread of the thumbscrew must be deeply and evenly cut so as not to strip.

An important requisite after the pencil lines have been put in is ink, with which to line the drawing. This should be of the best that can be procured. The pen is filled by dropping the ink between the blades, or nibs, while held in a nearly vertical position, as shown infig. 196.

Liquid India ink can be procured in bottles with glass tube feeders, which are very good, and keep the hands and fingers free of the ink.Fig. 197is a sectional view of such a bottle and “filler,” or feeder. This generally answers all requirements, but the dry ink of good quality, in sticks or bars, cannot be surpassed, although it requires skill for its preparation.Fig. 198represents a sloping dish or “tile” for mixing, which should be done with little pressure, in clean, filtered or distilled water, care being taken to keep the liquid free of dust, which obstructs the free flow of the ink in the pens.

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